- 3 Ve.
Savage Instincts -That
Survive in tne Sex, as
Shown by the Femi-
nine 1 aste m lviusic
, Dress and Dancing
iA'jL r other, day or so it was that
Oscar iHammerstetn . was barred off
Russian territory. He was going to
St. Petersburg to make a raid on the Slav
dancers. - - - ' ' '
Only a year or so ago all the big' cafes
and hotels began to get Hungarian orchestras.
If they did no morf, they put red and braided
uniforms on the orchestras they had and filled
their programs with czardas and dances of the
Czechs. ;
Only a decade ago it was that ragtim&,
that long overlooked descendant of the pritnu
the negro air, became the rage.
'" The meaning of thisf 'Twas to please the '
women.' They set the fashions in cafes and
at concerts i .. And to make their heartstrings
throb, nothing succeeds like the barbaric.
. ' The Slav dancers, the wild Hungarian
strains, the fashions : that rival the garb of
the outright . savage these are what , the
women tike the most. For several months the ."
London .halls- have been crowded ,by , the
Russian dancers, as the American opera houses
were last winter. It goes to show the same
ness of the sex, wherever it is found.
'.Some scientists are cruel enough to assert
that women are a step f urther back than men .
in the evolutionalscale.: Theypoint ' for proof
to this well-known passion for the barbaric.
Maybe they are right. " Maybe they are
wrong. 'But still, it is ony necessary to scan
the feminine fashions in music, dress and the
like to suspect that women j till hear the call
df the jungle.
VffiR In the South Sea Islands, where Joyous
I " 1 ' savagery la still rampant, the big brown war-"
XJ rior and his little brown wife wear feathers,'
coral, beads, sharks' teeth and gaudy bits of
Si0-.? from UP to toe. The man's garments, such as
inil. ar9 extravagant In color and cut as the ,
rL2 an!i .h seems to take as much delight in the
.ill8i" r hu Person as the vainest brown girl in
. the archipelago. s -
h.F'jlJ-Vf of " savages. Our own Indians, with
their warpaint and bright blankets, beads and feath
!iuIwn -English, forefathers, with their blue :
fiSlr?f,woa1 wh,h cea" ed upon with aston-'
i!2m :'-ere, a,l-cheerful savages. In every civilized
land men tend to rid themselves of the superfluous as
:f.!!?vanco Intelligence,- so" that today a. man's
its plainness " 0CcaH s Jmost lugubrious in
JiJfa0abV.t t5" wonen? Do they dispense with
ene bead, one bit of color which they wore when the
extreme decollete of th. South Seas Was In general
flEZ1 aUSSa1 f n,- Tney nav lace" instead of
tattoo, diamonds instead of sharks' teeth. They still
have paint (ahem!), and, since colored silks are more
V?,i.,L-n"IaL5i.the,r lmPxy wear more of them,
and brighter at that. ...
' THE SAVAGE IN MUSIC
And then In music you will And that the girls are
rapturous over the modified music of the tomtom.
They love the Weird, sensuous strains, of a savaae
melody; Hungarian, Bohemian, Indian, oriental musio
and dances send them Into ecstaoles. It would seem
that the old barbarlo tastes of our fathers survive in
woman long after they are extinct la man. 1 -
Term It the call of the primitive, or what you like.
woman nas a strands fashion, of mingling la her per
sonthe highest delicacy and culture of the presenl
with the eerlo tastes and customs of themost remote
s.nd' shadowy past. .' ; . .
The man who could defach himself from modern
civilization, as we chII it for want of a bett name,
-to-let fashions -chanire' a r!t1n' h!s absence. 'v . " uld be
astounded to see how barbarous the clothes, tl" hair
dressing, the ulterior decorations really ere, We get
hardened to l all when wo see it constantly; but the
man who goes to the woods, and there, in touch with
nature,, believes that woman's hair, for Instance, is a
natural thing arranged In beaiftlful snd natural styles,
will be fairly parlyaed upon his return to- find that s
1,7. Oscar iHammcrstein was barred of j , ' , . .;V If 1 vi f . AlrVfS'V I
THE OREGON SUNDAY
. . dui ill . i i u ' - - orrr . ii i.t i i in ;i jir i i
r -H l II ft ,SV5 - ' z: w -M?'JII!:1! Jli IJ
. sk,z? fzi m tern'-?: 1.
vmw&M m... lie
--. 1 u r . . , . - , i .... j r
17 M
H ' ' "i ll
- - -mgrrTiiii nil iiiiiiiMiiiiii iBiin i iiiiiiiiifrmnffif'ffiri n i ian ' n
2 "V'. AfrJ-ft
, fXyy yfZ
S . V 1 '
rnerican
I S THERE, in the whole world; any pinnacle ot
, bliss to which the American society girl most
'eagerly aspires? ' .
Not the American woman, mind you,
with an eye single to the marriage she hopes to
make, although, if she be a woman, she can still
be eligible to tho happy heights of girlish dreams
but simply the girl, with the girl's longings, aspira
tions and innocent ambitions. , ... .
Before the great liners were merely maritime
drawing rooms and boudoirs' for American femi
ninity hastening tfbroad, the question might not
have been more difficult to answer, but its solution
would have been circumscribed by boundaries.
Now with the cables and the mails over
burdened with material telling of the American
heiress' social ' triumphs in Europe, it calls for
as wide a; variety of answers as there, are girls
' and places for them to shine in. Yet there is one
distinction that, most of nil,, is ever dear to the
feminine soul 8uprcmacy'ia beauty.
i The longing of the American girl of this gen
eration is to be acclaimed the belle, not of her own
country only, but of Europe as well.' .
.., And. this ; year two American beauties 'share
the world honors, instead of. one, as was the. case
while Miss Margaretta, Drexel was still unwed..' 1
A
I Miss Gebhard, of iew York. VltBimportWlI B! -t;si trtnprr-tr-t f-ZXTZ
I h ni.BTit h.ith.V. ou. !.. dow pictures, where the light-paneled background
X or the present, neither aeemt to realize Jbt ,howgvotr the figure to an advantage that entails no
- rivalry need exist, or can'exist between them. . sacrifice of the fine details of the face. Almost classlo
Each appears to be content with the meed of admlra- in their outlines, with the thrilling eyes set In allur
tinn (hit hu onm tn hr and nnt unnit k. .invi ; Ing shadow, her features display an exqulsit ; regular-
tton that has come to her. and does not spoil her enjoyi (hat ,,' Recounted the finest type of loveliness
ment.pt her dlatinotlftn by Jealousy-ot the otberrrr, gdmlred-.4nc.!JEnKlandt
JOURNAL, 'PORTLAND, SUNDAY MgffNING, AUGUST 7, 1910
mode, whim, tatst pr whatever It may b hai decreed
that woman' hair Is a thin to be distorted, buried
under a welfrht of puffs, padded out with rats, switches
and man only knows what .
' The men of the Jungles plait their hair and put It
up in pompadours, too; but with the advance of clv
illzatlon the man who does more than cut and smooth
his hair Into Its natural-place Is considered absurd'
and barbarous.- . -
All the array of necklaces, bracelets, tiaras and
chains which custom concedes to the woman are no -
more than the relics or a long'-iors;ottea savagery..
And women take as much dellsrht In decking out their
vroni with the most land fur and extreme adorn-
ments as the savage roan and woman In the simple
Miss Gebhard's latest portralt-these newly popular
l A j i
- jr - .' . . . j i i i s - ' ' : . . . Jtr
t J M Hi .1, m ' .... m
and childish Jungle life. . .
It Is perhaps because the women are not amenabl
to change so readily as men. Women are aver the
last to give up a tradition, an old superstition. They
cherish the things of the past .long after men have -forgotten
them, and believe In them when men hava .
held them up to ridicule for generations.
In the primitive state man is as eager for orna
ment, is as fond, of wild, weird music, takes the same
delight in extravagant dances as woman. But as a
race grows in culture and intelligence, man gradually
substitutes the practical for the decorative. His tastes
in the esthetic things of life become far simpler, and
the old barbaric Instincts seem totally foreign to bla
stoical nature. : . , ,
"""leramnyavesW
seaV Corshanv-CourU in Wilts, and she rules there, like
has been heralded afar and the great London weeklies
are trying to '-scoop'! one another in the publication
of any new photograph for which she has consented
jocose, " .
j
4
If you were to dress an educated, cultured busi
ness man In a pink suit, put dlamohd buckles on ht4
hoes, gold bands on his wrists,' pearl chains on hlaJ
neck and red plumes in Jits hair, it would not give hlnx
the slightest satisfaction. In fact, it would cause-hlrai
the keenest sense d discomfiture and folly.
- His wife, however, reared;: under the same condH
fions, as carefully tutored and as Sanely lnstructeil
In 'the practical affalrsof the world, would take thai
keenest pleasure In surveying this outfit In a pler
glass, and tnr the same fashion would rillsb, the wlld-ri
est melodies played upon the most primitive instru
ments,, 'which might be almost distressing to the im
who was not educated to .the sensuous muslo of-sav
. agery. or. the orient. - :
The whole civilised world is reconciled to the Jungle-tastes
9f women, and delights In It Every one
goes to Paris, primarily because the women of Paris'
are. suck superb br.rbarians, especially' In dress and
personal adornment. ,
We smile at the peaked -bonnets and gaudy apparel
of the dancers of Cambodia, yet there is never a sea-s
son that Paris does, not produce something as extreme)
' and ridiculous as these costumes, If one' could only
detach nlmself from the world long enpughto realise
'It the' hat rthfct Covers one 'eye. the feat of huge;
plumes and a doeen colors, th turban -hat that Is a
direct-theft from the orient No man would think of
' adopting the colors and fantastlo Jewels which tha
men of Cambodia wear. They call them savage; buc
if their women- should decide Ho take the oostumesi
over as a whole, there would be little or no commentJ
The halrdresslng of the Hopl Indians of Arizona!
Is a' strange distortion of the natural lines of th;
head and may seem ridiculous to us; but the outrage-i
ous pompadours our girls used to wear, the still more'
fantastic array f puffs and things unfathomable to
man which are Just about out of fashion, the huge
. knots, and twists on the neck, are Just as barbarous.
CULTURE APE3 BARBARISM
The teeth and beads on the Hawaiian, the elab
erate Jewelry of the A(rican woman, the hair of the
Indian and the gaudlness of the Cambodians are paral
leled by something equally, barbarous In every,
feature with that which our cultured ladles wear.
Their music, their wild dances . and all that la weird
and near to the primltlveness of nature are pleasing to
the feminine heart . , ' ' ;
Perhaps it is to woman's credit that It Is so. It
may be that man's practical turn of mind, tending to;
eschew all that takes his memory back to the Junglj
days, Is a tendency toward the elimination of all emo-i
tlon and appreciation of beauty. It may be that woman.
Is acting the part of a benevolent link to old nature
keeping us In touch with the simple, natural, chili -:
like appreciation of things which, we should otherwUs
eventually lose.
Children, women and sr.vages love color. Children.,
1 women and savages love wild music, .minor tnelodlei;
and plaintive old barbarlo strains. It Is. Just possib'.!
that It is not at all to man's credit that he lacks th
appreciation of all these things. If men would alfl.)
dress in gold, precious stones, fine colors and feathers,
It might be discovered that with these things comes,
the happy, optimistic state of mind which, is charao-
terlstle of children and savages.- " .
Vhere seems to be little enough primitive love oei
beauty little enough joy m lire among men, necausn;
there -seems-so- lHiie - spontaneny-' ana ouoyancy or
spirit left',tn the race when; the external symbols of
savagery are discarded. -In southern Europe, where:
color, ornament and folk songs are still prevalent, the
race seems to breath a lighter air.y .
There may oe sucn a tntng as getting too rar tram
the Jungle, and
if this ts true we have woman to
thank
that so much of the Jungle Joy, the Jungle spirit'
and the Jungle atmopohere are preserved for us.
The crown of girlish loveliness worn by Miss
Drexel until her marriage to Viscount Maidstone has,
however, passed to Miss Wayne, who gained It In;
some fairy princess, by the right of her serene beauty.':
over the assembly of guests, drawn from the vt
acquaintance her people have In Paris and London, 4
as well as New York. Meanwhile, her beauty's fam
ptantly and as If by right of Inheritance, n the day:
of the Drexel wedding. It is her accession to the tils'
place of honor among American belles which seemi
to have fixed Indefinitely, :for .the future the nature;
of the American society girl's aspiration. :,
Until the display of her charms la direct comptl-,
tlon with those of the bride, world famous as lllaJ
Prexel's had become. Miss Wayne was known on thi(
side of the water eimply as one of the very pretty,
girls lrf Philadelphia society, who made her debuV:
In November. 1907. when her close friend. Miss Drexs;,;
was brought out . v ,. . .
It needed only her presence among the brlass-,
maids at the "ceremony In England to set the cable j
flashing the news that she waS the most beautiful;
American girl then in England. The first enthusiasm
of the cable, when England came to study bar ai
leisure, proved wel founded. ,
She rivals the English beauties in; their cn
specialties. Her eyes are liquid with the blue of th
deep sea. .Her hair, lashes and eyebrows, all black t.
midnight, serve as perfect contrast for tho- ex.traon'.t-
i nary whiteness of her complexion and the deep; alniow .
brilliant ed of her alluring Hps She had been l;k
some rare and exquisite flower, blushing unseen tinru
suddenly transplanted where the eye of tha wwii
behPld her. and every one united. In her praise.
When the cables were telling of her conquost, V-
' demand in this country for her photograph was
eager and so sudden that her father's residence Ii
Paoll echoed to the telephone bell. Once the ton v
n nr.eWayner she rejoined. ' "How can I tell whr
to find hlra? He's out lookln' after the work on r.
farm here, and I'd have to hunt over the wiioU 6,
acres for blm." "V ' . ... ,
There, of course, was the secret of the marveloi! t
-,ivlrttr that so fascinated UritUh eye-ttie m
healthy, joyous ginnouu
duces the peaches and cream of the un
t fiat r
( lit l
typical English belle. '
Last year there was one American benut i
"Tubtemo In Xondon'9-g'',r mrn ..,.
vsar are two. In the years to tome. i
-on this side of the ocean moving out t- th
there may be hundredsof AmrU it-
rhirmi will rival inose 01 nun-nr.".
whoso aspirstlons may be f'r tn 1 i
that have come to rer snt M.si xLi