- i it - :: ........ f :ai,w?i.Nr:j jum
rrsj He combination
' I ' been lauded to the skies by
I ' Vomen who appreciate the lm
portanc of smoothness' of fit In ,.
an undergarment. I am riving, there
fore, with much pleasure, a rose design -that
should appeal to every feminine
heart and hand. :
You will notice that there ll ln-
tlmated an eiTocUve use oi atltches on
tne leaves, tne comoinauon oi oua
nd seed stltoh being a favorite on
or tne r rencn, wno are masters oi em
broidered. -lingerie. - Half of the leaf -you
-will fill. In with stitches that fol
low, the direction of the lines. The
eed atltch Is merely a , tiny back
stitch, in straight lines. On1 the half
of the leaf where this is used the
outline atltch must be used. If you
wish, you can Bhlp this outline with a
Ingle strand of the mercerised cotton.
The conventional rose -design Is
beautiful and easy. Over-and-over.
stitching the shortest way of the
petals will work very - quickly: ran ."
designs have the tiny central petals
filled -in with French knot. j-y
The scallops are 'small and quickly
worked after padding." For the ribbon
drawing string the eyelets in groups
can be buttonholed as ypu have al
ways done on corset covers.
YThese form a : pretty, substantial
edge for the ruffle of the garment, and
although numerous to the Impatient eye,
fuljy compensate the worker In . their
durability and effective finish.
Daintiness of underwear lathe :nark
of . Well-dressed women. From the
; combination garment' the step, to a
" complete set of .the rose design Is
esVy. I am happy to point the way to
all my, readers.1 - -. ; -Jr-'
; Frills ,. , .
; INVERT blouse. nowadays Is frilled.
Hi and If It is not already so sup-
t 1 plied, milady of the needle hastens
. to the resoue of her passe shirtwaist
and sudds the very necessary adornment.
. There is the frill demure, of accordion
pleated lawn or mull or linen, with its.
scalloped edge of embroidery. Or, some
: times",, the edge Is only a deep fold of
black or color. Large white handker
chiefs, with, colored borders, have come '
to their artistic- end in many of these
frills.' ,
Then there 1 the frill aristocratic, of -
lace or sfllover embroidery, elaborately -lucked
"and edged with eocordlon-pleat- -
ed satin. Sometimes" the frill aristo
cratic Is of net. with allk-embroldered ,
" dots and' a stiff , lace edge. This is worn
with the silk or expensive lingerie welst.
, ; And there is. the f till practical, really
, I part ' of the walstT and concealing 'its
opening. This Is likely, to be adorned
with a diagonal row of buttons black, - r
' If the folded edge 18 black; colored, if
colored or else is of plain strip em
,;" broidery, hiding the band of buttons and
buttonholes blow It It has been seen
: in the blouse material, pin-tucked. . .
, ' But always it Is the frill various. It'
may .spring from a Dutch collar . of
- plaltt linen, with,' a colored ' edge to
; match that of Jhe frill; it may be con
tinued in' a stock,' fashioned, on .the
same lines and of the same tints and
'materials. Often it has cuffs tomatch,
v. ' and sometimes a belt or girdle. It may
' seem, a blouse trimming, or be simply
' part of the blouse Itself; sometimes It
, . is. really adjustable, and fastens by
r means' of pearl buttons and crocheted
" loops br of gold baby studs. Occasion
, ally it. Is tnetaihorphosed into a scarf ,
" fastening under an embroidered band .
V across the slashed middle 6f the blouse,
v And.' above, all,' It n thTrin easy t9 "
.make 'and beautiful.
The Cretonne Hat
V' -
THE new poke bonnet and Gorday
shapes In millinery are now to be
seen covered wlttf flowered , cre
; tonne In blended tints good hint to
the lady of the worn straw hat, for fre
quently turbans and the ' .crowns and
brims of largo hats are likewise so
treated. . Flowered ribbons, with sprlng-
like flowers and trillings of lace, are '
: used to trim these hats, giving an ap
pearance quaint and before-the-war-y
and yet very modish,
i - ! ; . . . - ar
A Cushion Edge . ,
SCALLOPS large ehallow scallops
done - In coarse buttonhole stitch
with linen floss or heavy cotton
form the attractive edge of m. cretonne
sofa pillow.
It Is advisable to use the natural linen
ir color of the background, as it will be
' found more effective than the more
' brilliant colors, of the flowers.'
' New Bolero Effect t
w
IDE shirring has found its way
even Into the bolero, A pon-
shirred effect everywhere except In the
upper sleeves. There are' three bands
o shirring about halfway down the
tunic skirt,' also, and the entire effect
U dainty and summerlike. , i
S5
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gsTmentlhasi, f. V v ' if i' ' - ' ' 1 V 1 ., ' .
I I -V-i ?: ' 1-r- : . ' ; . v. ' 'V r:'":.i!"sV
. y : - ' one.
(? "Sack
tl V W )- nctJi u (I f f
. fV- 3 . . , v I
Sewing Ideas New and Useful
rr HERB are so many little things
I that will save time and glv good .,
" JL results for the busy needlewoman!
Here are some of them: - .
When darning a reot In woolen goods,
darn with hair from your own head..,
The loose weave of the wool loses the
hair in Its meshes, so that the darn Vs
Invisible. :- , - i ..,,'.'-," 1
' The best, thing to clean rusty needles
better than emery Is common earth. "
Just go out in the garden.and stick
your rusty needles Into the ground two
or three times and you will be surprised
;- at the result
' f Whenf a button; comes off a shoe, run
.'through alt the other buttons with the
' same thread with which' you replace
the missing one. ,Jt" will strengthen
enr"JrndslnreexrTMtt
eewing a task far In the future. -
Very often small holes In black or
white kid gloves are better mended
with" court plaster than by sewing. Cut
A VJl UIC1NJLU a I uivu w .i.jl.
'11 'ii':-.r?i
u irrn ti-cy '
000,00 WPi.a
the plaster' a Mttle ; larger than the
hole and apply with the unglased back
to, the Inside. This is too heavy for
. fabric gloves, however, and tears them
still fu'rther.
i. When the very tip breaks off of one
blade of a pair of scissors, the point
may be renewed by filing or by rubbing
hard on a whetstone, The points will
be uneven, but they will cut. The same
treatment Is good for blunted needles.
Wherever yatt have a placket or vent
to fasten, use glpve clasps instead .of .
Ijooks and eyes. They, will stay shut
much better and cost just about the
same. ,, "
.; If you are In a", hurry ( for darning
" cotton and cannot secure Ifrlmmedlately.
ravel an old stocking, pulling one thread.
andTu""
the thread thus obtained. This is es-
, peclSTly good In ellk and fin lisle
stockings, w her ordinary darning cot
ton makes-anvuglyr coarssxappearaac.
QC3 CVQ
Silk -underskirts always give fixst at
the seams. Therefore, while the petti
coat Is new, sew silk seam binding over
aoh fastening It on the right side. This
will serve often as a cure for wornout
petticoats as well as a preventive.
In drawnwork and hemstitching on
linen, soap the place where the threads
are to be drawn,,' using a thick soap
aether and a soft brush. After the linen,
is drawn It will be easy to take out the
threads. -.w . "
Always sew torn matting with raffia.
Raffia stretches and covers the rent
quite effectually. Use a regular carpet
needle, with a large eye.
Try making' tiny eyelets In a collar that
must be fastened with gold pins, ons
eyelet where thepln goes Inland tn-
"ollrwhereFcbmesutllhcre wilt be"
much less chance of having a torn col
lar to mend later. "And. by the way.
when making an oblong eyelet, work It
around a drawing and- out It out after
WOMAT
Cri
fatyef fy MVS
ward. Tou will be sure, then, of hav
ing Just the right size without pulling.
Keep your pieces and dress scraps In
a bag or bags, of mosquito netting or
scrim, so that you can see at a glance
Just whldh piece you want. If you hav
a great deal of this left-over material,
try having separate bags for different
colors or different fabric. .'
In sewing on a button to be used on
heavy material, sew over a slate pencil,
making the thread fast with, a stout
knot: There will' be lees danger of los
ing the button again and the result Is
not so unwieldy as the tape-sewed tout
ton often used on children' clothes..: .
In sewing net curtains or other mate
rial of the same sort. Instead of basting
or using pin to mark the hems, run in
visible hairpins up the net. They will
hold their place and show plainly.
Instead of eyes to go with hooks, try.
tiny safety-pins.. Certainly they are
easier to adjust; and where they will
not show they ere every bit as useful.
Above all, be sure to have all your
sewing materials ready before you start
your work. What should you think
"of the -carpenter you had called to your
borne If, wfoen he arrived, . he found he
was out of nails .and had forgoUen his
mlterbox? A soon as your ,upiVy of
any sewing accessory Is exhausted.- re
plenish It, gnd keep your wotkbox up
to date. When any new ..invention ooines
to view In the shops, see it it Is worth
while; and In that case, make h your
own. ; ' . '"'' .'-""''
And all this Is worth doing. . It Is re
markable how; the Htle things, as I
nlve said, help fthe.homb sewer for the
dressmaker or the woman who sells her
wares (and such sewing the embroid
ering of initials and monograms on
linens and the making of dainty layette
. and lingerie offers a lucrative and too
n-frleoted field) they are invaluable.
look out for 'these MfcU hints
nf ven vnur tiome sewing a proreesmnr
aUiSTj?hrradofnnaiail4
labor. , n
&im finished Work
"
'
.
Embroidered Veils
N0WADAY8, when veils are so heav
ily embroidered, the woman who
Is exact and delicate in her nee-
idlwork can save herself a pretty penny
by herself embroidering her plain net
vn The work must be done In the
finest embroidery silk In aToose outline
stltcb, and great care must be taken
not to tear the -mesh of the veil. It Is
best to confine one's self to the simplest
patternsthe new 'comet design, after
our late visitor, is a good example-and -to
choose the large sprawly designs, so
popular in any event, as the different
' figures will never approach the machine
stitching in 'exactness; and this Is less
" noticeable where they are few and far
, between.
. A Hat for 20 Cents
T HI8 Is not strictly true, for it was
'lined with black satin and had a
huge draped bow of the same,
, both taken from an old hat. But "every
woman ' has ' these somewhere in her
storeroom or scrapbag. And the rest?
It was a bathing hat, purchased for
10- cents, .and molded over a' hot chaf.-.
Jng dish to the required scoop-bonnut
shape. Then the black satin, was ap
plied, "fore and aft," so to speak, and .
In front-was placed a square buckle
contrived from a 10-eent piece of-white
chamois, purchased also at the l-and-10-cent
store" And there you aret The ,
exact replica of a J30 French hat, but
fashioned by the cleverftBt girl In town
for '10 cents.. ; - , -
The Tailored Parasol
r
N PARIS. , the home of taste and
fashion, ohly the very plainest sort
of sunshade is worn with tailored
1SM0 li wn wuii- WHumu
.. nlt or
slmule ..morning dress... The ,
n,Lnnt la nt alllr nr nt Silk and COttOn
. - i,, A- ilL- n n.l .A Inn
'.-'". . .1. .! .. f
.t.imK. Th on v decoration al-
in nn illv made at home: three
un-
d
you wm o in i'lr: '"r .1 V ", ...
' for about half a' dollar and an hour s
work-
Dress Accessories
for the Clever
Woman
THE woman who can. "turn her
" hand to the making of unusual
and dainty things has a wealth of
, material from which to choose In' the
making over and embellishing of. her
summer clothes. ; , . ,
She cn, for Instance, embroider in
heavy pream-colored silk th broad but
tons of her pongee or foulard dress, and
Insert a new yoke of spider1 embroidery
-a sort of fagoting that looks almost
like drawn work.' V';U: "t;t::?; ;''" V;
-- Then there Is the lengthening of the
allover embroidery gown t by means of "
two or three bands of net, Just above the
kpees not enough of It to make the
skirt sag, hQweyert:",,;,;;,;;.-.,;-'
wear in minor points, he can freshen
it by meanaof pipings, collars and cuffs
' and big, buttons- of figured foulard,
- From her heavy evening cloak she can '
take the; padded lining, and replace: 1
with white or cream-colbred silk chif
' fon, edging the lining with a. tiny quill
Ing 6f'cMffon;--.trM
Then phe an remove. Its worn buttons
or irogs, ana use instead oneniai pip
Ing made into tubing and braided, three
trends together, as rosettes and cords.
Her old straw hat will be wondrously
Improved by means' of net Itt the
a same shade. Nothing so freshens straw ,
' as stiff net. Let her make a scarf of it,
and on each ide run this through a sort
of buckle formed, of three rows of ac-cordion-pleated
net, sewed on either end
to th straw of the crown.
rns sua oress wnoss yono ana lungr
cuffs show signs of wear should have
these cut out and replaced by plain net,
with a wide band of Dresden silk em
broidery at the bottom of the yoke, and ,
squares In Dresden colors eorrespending
to those In the embroidery, worked In.
satin stitch at regular Intervals over the
Finally, here are two new sewed-o
Jabot Ideas for our clever seamstress,
The first Is a cuHHng of black satin .
formed Into a circular shape and bound
by piping of red velvet, from which
t he ream-coTored lace Jabot falls. The
other Is a band of. narrow black vel;
vet around the neck, caught in frbn$ by
one blue satin ring, and again, about
three inches down, by. another, and end
Ing in three little blue-and-black ta
sels. :-?-!-.V-v -:,vifb;-vvy
The Long-Line Effect
WHICH same might be entitled "th
long-line effect and how to get
it." -'or all ,of us must look like
sylphs nowadays, and if Nature ha
been unkind, she must be gently assisted;
to kindness. , , ,
,. Nothing ucceeds ' for this purpose,
with the woman whose clothes are of
- her own devising, like the vertical band
. running down the front of the one-piece .
frock, almost from chin to toes.
The-gown may open In this manner, so .
- that there Is a row of fabric-covered or '
pearl buttons or of braid frogs .all
down the front, caught at the watat by
a loose girdle. Many of the new skirts
also open in the front, seeming nothing
but wide oblongs of dress toods wrapped
about the form feminine.
Or that long line may be a simulated
opening, whereas the dress fastens quite
conventionally In back. Then there is a
frill effect of lawn or linen, deeply scal
loped and perhaps edged with embroid
ery or Itself embroidered. ' Indeed. .
, fold and a row of buttons in the exact
: vertical middle of a gown will give 'the'
desired effect with a minimum of trou
ble. .
men tnero . ino iu.w
tucked underskirt and a tunc slashed
down from the' frilled Dutch collar to
below the knees will make oi look de
lightfully long and slim. " .
Morewer. "tmple doHnlng embroidery
will' do a great deal; -and there w ai
, ways the iasli, appropriately Uraped nJ
fastened at shoulder and knee.
And the Spoiled strlo ot embroidery,,
- ovne or ot braldins, or dress good
-7. "i - r.nii-ilnat color to the
i irureu in m tunn ' ---
, piiMn iunv. ,,'""r.7. h ihol skirt
tects. ;W ,-V .i huh a-4
1H .BlU'.W 1 J vtwr. i..
th aoDiiauea wa iw-
the low-cut neca,
feature, no that
CAndo, 'aU h.iil U the long-line ?" M
The important ws
a -ta iiti(lf l tip iTTfr mir"""i.ri j '
Sr , . T r-fi-rtfir-nTTf" ' tit "T""
Let everything 'td'iMuH In thw o ..
-re