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, ND now the several readers, who
' have asked top some simple edge
"on a boy's Bussian blouee shall '
, ba atlsiled. I have had the col-
lar edged most simply, so-that it may be .
used also by the mother who needs g,,'
separate sailor collar for coat or blouse. -
embroidery that is not of the plain
est should be used on' a. boy's clothes,.
While the edged collar and tha scal
loped shield are boylBh enough for the
4-year-old, I should not risk a scalloped
belt. The patent leather belt of red .or
a black Is usually that chosen for the
boy's summe outfit- -
Half of the collar Is shown and the ,
upper section of the shield, as you will .
see by the sketch of the finished suit.
The work or..lhe shield Is to be done 1
wfcll-paddcd solid stitch; the -scallops '
are all to be padded and buttonholed,
end the eyelets, wliirh will be put in
last, will be as evenly p'miclied as "pos
sible! or these same marks may be
- worked as e-mail"- solid dots.' French
-knots are, -1 think, too fancy for the
boy,- They suggest ' too much , the
, stitches used in fancy work. , . ,
All work on linen or galatca suits for ,.
'. little' boys should be" strictly tailored.
Anv Russian blouse pattern for -a boy 's
may he mad" the sltlpe of the sketch
to accommodate this collar,' by allow
ing the usually short shield to run down
i
10 a length suggested by the front panel
of the sketch, and then by folding back
each side of the front to how tile
shields 1 , . . ,
' The collar is secured tQ the neck line
of the ttouae before the shield or front'
section is placed. The shield is fastened
Jn down the left side by Hewing and
with ornamental buttons, and It is but
toned down the right side.
The shield is made without a band
collar,' this being more desirable for
midsummer wear.
Speaking of materials, linen la always
reliable (or the well-dressed child, and
white linen is the first choice. A white
- collar on a dark blue suit is next best,
and then there is a long line of colors
and Btripet, any and all of which are
correct for the 4-year-old boy. Delicate
blues are to be avoided, because ofithelr
well-known propensity for fading, and :
pink s, like lavender, a less boyish color ;
than some of the more decided reds,
blues and browns.
Galatea rank next to linen, and the
""coarse union linens, also llnenes, which
are all cotton; are strong and desirable
among the .less expenslves. .
For the white collared suit the em
broidery dsie;n here shown for thecol-
lar may be traced upon white linen, and :
that" for the shield upon- dark blue or
striped stun, but both of them worked
with white cotton,
- -A Flounce Finish ;
m O FINISH the unner edc of a
1 flounce on a delicate white frock
there Is suggested a new idea In a
-pray of silk flowers. ' '' ,
A long and trailing tendril made of a
milliner's fold of delicate pink satin is
tacked along the line of Joining whore
the chiffon or tulle flounce is fastened to ,
,the skirt. - ,
ilanging from this at . dlstahccs ,of
thre or four Inches are single rose
buds, the smallest Imaginable, made of ;
pink ribbon and each one attached to a
leaf made Of delicate; narrow greeu rlb-v
bon. ' " ... , N
Now, af wldrr intervals, and reaching
. upward fiom lhlonR fendrll, there ap
pear wandering sprays of the ?ame pmk ,
sIllyTold ending with a tiny pink bud. - -
On the same frock the sleeve ts fin-..",
Tished Wltli a similar hand-made decora"
tion and the shoulder line below the sub
yoke.' '.
Church Embroideries -
w-vBR MAPS there is no material that
. win contribute so successfully to
X the final result In church em
broidery ns brocade.
. Satin brocades form a nttlngly rich
background for stoles and bookmarks
and for various hanging. Hold bul
lion fringe la the natural ' finish When '
that of heavily twisted silk does not
take its place, nut regardless of color
or finish the rlrlv background .Will ad-
;mit of less work-(and trying work at
that) than smooth corded silk. , ;...., i
A delicate tracerv of eold thrpad lalii
work or couch stitch nil) give anipie
ornament uoon a figured surface, and
' the background design on the silk, when
got from departments : where church
supplies are sold, will frequently pro
vide a Maltese cross in outline through
out the fabric. ' ..
LONG-DISTANCE VIEW
give anipie v clven
.we have
TAND 'off and look!" is the tery
necessary advice to the homa
dressmaker who--would get the
best results In the combination of sev- '
oral materials. ''
We are fast" getting into the middle
of a season of combinations. A delight
f ul thought to the economical- mother -and
the resourceful among the younger
generation, for bere is 'opportunity to
use again all the bits of BtufT in ,tho
patch bag aa well as the left-over gar
ment whoso remains were too good to
throw away and yet Impossible from the
standpoint of quantity -
To thowe who watch the fashions it ;
will 'he evIdAit that the dress with a ;
figures or plain material through the
middle and contrasting yoke and lower ,
hem has set the paco for the combin
ing of odd pieces and short lengths, and
, from it has developed -a ' long line of
gowns, each one with two or even more,,
materials. ,- '
The" correct' manipulation of vcontraat
ing stuffs requires Ingenuity if the dress
Is to be evolved by the amateur, and a
long look from a safe dlHtance if it 13
even to bo copied from a good model.
.'Each individual will present an en
tirely different appearance clothed in a
very similar model, and the effect of.
striking contrasts must bo carefully
viewed for you or for mo so that no
suKRPStHm , of abnormal anatomy is
A Ribbon-Holder .
A. MONO, the dainty knickknacks
which can be turned out by the
clever needlewoman Is a Jittla
.holder' for lingerie ribbons. ... a, soft
length of sash ribbon should be choisen
for this purpose, one-third of the width
hntner r i . r n. I n . .1 - - - .... . .
Dy lines of fagoting to form pockets, and
the hemmed edges finished in tlie same
way. Pieces of eaqdboard to tit the
pockets are wound with .dlfrernnt-col-orod
ribbons and put in place, 'and the
whole secured with a bow of ribbon.
In mind a snuaro plaque,
beautifully embroidered upon 'cloth of
gold 'in old gold floss, but so pluced on
the back of the bodice as to look like
nc-thlng more pleasing than amuHtard
plaster between the shquUJor blades of
the unsuspecting purchaser of the model
Bown. It had but little bearing upon the
garment of which it was supposed to
be a contributing part, and actually ho
place on the woman tor 'Whom it was
not designed.
The human figure, from an artistic
the observance of these lines In'the de
signing of the gown beautiful will result
successfully, and they will be found of
marked advantage in the" use of sharply
contrasting materlifla. ,
If you draw an Imaginary line across
the bust,' drop the arms first and draw
it ulso round the arm; keep' your plain
material above this line on the neck
and on the arms, with your figured stuff
below It throughout. ' v ,
Whether skirt materials are combined
in a straight line or an uneven decora-,
tlvo ono, the connection of several stuffs
should occur at the hip line, at . the
kuce Una or at the line running half
way between floor and knee.. -.., .
, Keep contrasting materials in masses.
If the lower section or the bodice b
made of the lighter shade, see. to it that
the upper part of the skirt which Joins
it matches, and then get in the contrast
at the neck line' and the sleeve ends.
Girdles are a dangerous proposition,,
and should, in' color, be made like the
bodice and lilp portion, it the waist
measurement is at all too large to bt
graceful; but In the esse of an abnor
mally small waist a gayly colored girdle
or contrasting leather belt will enlarge
It Just to the appearanos. of comfort.
The long mirror and the large room
re tlie salvation of woman who
would combine materlulsV Before tha
mirror, with materials, in and ad
idea in mind, much may be done in the
way of successful combinations and the
habit of basting is 'a cautious one, by
which good effectafmay the more readily
be got. ; . ;
. Wherever it ts the intention to com
bine cashmere prints or Persian silks
with plain material, or to use the sim
plest' of hordura stufTs, tor to bring In
"the bias' hratdn as an edge, the coarse
needle 'fl ml basting spool will save the
agony ofa long aiege of ripping and
will preneye th good fabric intact.. -v
A It curiously made dresses, all unusual
errorts m ttie new or design, all at
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A Handkerchief Jabot
THE jabot made of half a handker
chief la a sensible and Inexpensive
solution of the necktie problem for
the business woman.
Cut diagonally in half, the handker
chief; If a plain fine one, will -admit of
' extra trimming along Its already hem
stitched edges.
) part- of the finish being provided,
there but remains to be added the nar
rowest of Irish lace edges on on
jabot and a delicate cluny on the other.
The sape is got by the folding of .a
central Inverted box pleat, with two or
three email pleats On each, side turned
centerward.
Preyed Into shape, the Jabot Is mount
ed along Its diagonal raw edges upon a
,i small band stitched by machine, and by
this it Is secured beneath the turnover
collar.
"W. 'I'l. ' ' "i i' -'-' -.a'-:''
Drawn Work
F SOMETHING now be your aim la
matter of the ornamentation of a
blouse, drawn work la suggested by
some of ihe most successful makers aa
an effective "relief from the perennial
insertion or embroidery.
Tha 'coarse meshes so much in use
this season offer stability and an un
usiial coolness, to which characteristics
is added the easy "drawing" quality.
When marquisette or voile 1 drawn
and worked with coarse Hnen thread lit
some of the simpler drawn-work pat
terns, the decorative value i wonder
fully Increased. . Squares, lines and
pointed plastrons are attainable, and
when the whole blouse Is built over a
contrasting color to bring Jt into har
mony with the skirt, the result is de
cldedly successful.
Going-Away Coats
WHEN THEY GRADUATE
anatomist's point of view I tiih,i . :,.. .. "I ".5":,. A?Trt "iV '
111,1 r l!r1n1rnnrywtnV1'.i''''''fl''.' w;'wiiw my
'"intArvaTa fn. in.t. i .mi "'It " l,u canieu almoin to me point or corn
s',', f,h llM,nJldl l'lng,t l,letlon wl,h basting thread. The actual
. !, ML ?e,e..rg"r ,ntP lB ,t ilnlshing of a well-basted garment is a
pce of work rnmimrprl tn It
nununi- iiiraNurfrnciH, we get a cros
linp at the-nee t. one at. the busL-one
at the, waist, one ut the iiip, tic,. Now,
nor p
construction.
in. this way only can good effects be
N ENTERPRISING English dress
maker fills in her spare time max,
ing "going-away coats" for little
dogs. This would Indicate that the
American belle who carries in her arms
the small mite of a dog is not the only
foolish woman In existence.
IW Is ald that these little coats are
fashioned of velvet, or Cloth to match
mi"--tha wkla'a-rayHnrgoon,1 birr-tythy"
practical -tney suggest only tnose tery
wonderful blankets we made in ' our
little-giri days , for brother's wooden
horse. . : , . , .
. Pockets, we are told, for the handk'ev
rhlef and for four gutta-percha shoes for
doggie finish the coat.
SUGGESTIONS are In order for the
girl graduate's gown; in Act, no
more appropriate and acceptable
hint can be offered than those that
help mothers who have on hand the
pretty white frock ' their daughters will
wear on the eventful day. :
The frock alone Is not so much of a
burden, but. its finish is quite a prob
lem. The accessories often outweigh
in anxiety the greater, garment itself.
Three roses com to the rescue as a
fastening of . the girdle at either the
back or the left front, and a cluster of :
three fihlsh the , ine long girdle end
that does duty as a sash., On the same
gown, which Is of the simplest, soft
white mull worn over a valenciennee
laae. skirt. ana sorest sov.r made as a.
combination garment, the shoulder
seam is held together by a row of fonr
tiny roses. They are the pink relief
to an otherwise pure white costume.
The girdle itself is white, but If not
made of the mull, may be of white
radium 'silk or liberty satin.
- Flower in actual artificial form -art v
not a necessity on the white' frock, and
are often substituted by. a nice use of
Dresden or pompadour ribbon as a color
touch; not alone a girdle, .but for the
deep tub-yoke ia this dainty flowered
material. In this case the tiny blossoms
will show through the sheer white to ,
good effect.'
White embroidered net has been suc
cessfully used in a graduating gown, so ;
'that its yoke, half sleeves and lower
kilted skirt are In evidence above and
, below a ribbon-trimmed tunic and bodice
of sheer white. Which is embroidered
with coarse Japanese wortrln untwisted
i. eattoa. I i. in. i '. ' 'i
This same effective embroidery is car-
ried out on the plain net itself in an
other frock, ' too 'ornate to ' need any '
other trimming than a tied girdle of
white ellk'knotted at the end.
Speaking of girdle ends, to hang
heavily the girdle la weighted with leal
weights covered with silk.
Festoons enter luto the more elaborate
frock. A complete double skirt of the
sheerest possible mull has for it tumc
the upper skirt, which ts festooned by ;
the use of whlCe rosebuds.
For Slippers
IT 18 .comparatively lately thst tlie
slipper case of chiivts has b',fMl
made to fit the slipper. 'Hereto
fore the closet door seems to hv"
boen the final aim and obj-xl of
cutter.
' The ploces of applied calnU- ,!l lt
hold thV slipper-are w niude t "
jiUaicaaLll.t?ellLn.!,v!i,U':r.r f,: ' -
perfectly into lis own oi-k t wu h
held in place. When all H aul 1 ' ' I
ddne, the tianglnir 'case that ''(.
inodites a full b"" "f o-. ;f. 1
otlief case fur the dainii'T I'!,Mi -"' ' '
Hilltrit, will IOV(i !lom UM '.- li ...
separate in lr e' li iltt ... .
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