THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTLAND, SUNDAY, MORNING, MAY 8, 1910
x i.
for tiMNDUSTRlOU S MIS
By Adelaide.' Byrd
LEWGMAN ., ,
'pJS' ' y-':'; . Daughter's Dresses
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Ssfe!?"
THE bordering of the centerpiece
, seems to cub muun aimcuiiy w
the Inexperienced, and a few sug
gestions may bo in order. "'
' Richness Is got- by plenty of padding.
This is a running stitch applied in lay
ers to the number ofthree. Small scal
lops require ons layer, medium scallops
two. and large scallops or a. broad,
straight edge three plentiful layers. The
scantily padded edge wUl not launder
well, but- there Is no just complaint
agsinst the perfectly padded stitch on
ths soora ef wearing.
When using- that special untwisted
cottos which comes for the more per-,
feet buttonholed edge, two- strands
should b used instead of one if ths
wear Is under consideration.
A question often raised suggests the
following: Wbea tbe lines forming the
scalloped edge of a centerpiece run cn
and continue In to form tbe design, tbe
buttonholing stops at the exsct point
wfcr te n-toal edr , and the
d'rn la tkn op wit! satin etiw n.
v fapn i, '. t ! e s n e.'.e to nv
Vrn fs"-r r , i, tl lar Is not f i' .i
In- t v t Is to rnk a . -4
V "". t or Is th l;nn j , r-1. Tbe
f'f rr.iit ao;-;t!r b krt
f'-r ,ni) ft lH l' )" N h'd
!"') tLti s o i r ''! -' in
t to ''" d
r- -- i-tmi in . r,t i - o'j ..lap
t'tT d.-n Eien 'hei -
'- FROM LEFT-OVERS
"XTOV simply cannot waste Anything
. V- these das. Economy Is preached
, Into an extravagant age - until
even fashion-makers are evolving gar
merits for ths very, purpose of combin
ing odd lengths, and art embroiderers '
are ' indulging In ths Frenchleat ' of '
French decorations, which elwaya pro--ed
from a spirit of national thrift.
Never has there been a time when beau--tiful
things could be more readily made
from blta. Ths veriest scrap of tapes
try left from tbe cbalr bottom which
you yourself hav tacked Into place wi:i
make a magazine cover for use on tbe ,
library table, or else tbe enda of an cfr
lorg cushion-top, ij ye adJ4-.1on of a
trip of gilt galloon to conceal tbe
ssrn j.
Th cotton honMCklrg wbh-h the
rinewmaker ha r anl as a
from your stret-t suit til do better
If-e a cor for t o l,ot(ito -1' t ht
wrul(j tirholsierv burtsn. L- e ft
ef a frmcr. be',f weave. If t'tm
from hn(i tK ir:-o r hsprf-4
to b M e r-rr m 1 h i r c s 1 n or r .
". . rcnv-sr.t m : ; lr1 f ?-
1-st f- r rr m rnrl fo,,1r; rwi 1 '
1i b a s rrnnsrt. H nr t.
hm, t t - r- " as a t""" re
hsrs in . er l'-.r t e
to hod set Isetidfr in ir 1 r -n
Mc t t a t-'t ft ! I'M frffw
Ut tw curU.a s.;;l I'.fMora yew
'f iISLP dailies fcara eoraa ta re-
L7n. tVmUl. a seJVusat aadn aincs. let m. suggert a doubled out-P-
tha fnrm taa.for Ud ono In which the sUUhes
, - .u.m . -- nm h . sesa r ' ... '
pniwicv. ,m -
tracing ef the other, thirds you will
awing tho design round without taking ft
from the material Instead of lifting R "
up and laying It orer.
bureau to Its original beauty. This
piece of furniture Is usually In need
of refurblahlng, and whether there be
needed drapery for the dressing bureau
. er merely" a cover, with a cushion to
match, the swiss will supply ths want.
Should It bo dotted, work ta hastily
made daisies with long white oottan
petals In one of the lasy-dasy stitches
(that ore resembling rbatnstltcb tn eoo
st ruction) placed round tha embroidered
dot. which will form Its center. T
On a plaid or barred Swiss ths bar
space offers room for a colored dot in
coarse embroidery cotton; -and. again.
If the material be striped and open, baby
r'.bNns are run through the cpeeilnge
In the weave to rM effect, whether.
froii or uo erj ic.
At 1 thrr are 6trr ltirr- we do Bet
"tirow ruiMeae y e save eur
l"s-f r r fx.n. livery IHt r r p ef
s s it rsvi will rrks a t. from ths
. e f r tbe van.; t ir rror ts
i i Am lot tbe
I at v fn r4 for ihe S'sss irsr
fro t (. .r.er,t rotors
"I t-n, cr--t iwu la'ths avaJs.
fe T t-n-n etvje are on of eixh
rwe ttt thv w'.:i 4l f-r art-j.l ;
t.rr- f- j.rym we ea alws t n
ii-m f--r to vt st4 eee la etr
y r -' f w e
,r - t ft r-,r aecesotik. Joi-fc-l-g
fciti tw ictW"
" Tb sosJlop is simple, and requires the
usual padding before- good . but tonbol
' tng nay be accomplished. .The daisy
' Is here at Its best, and the stems, form
a mors than usually pretty design for
one ' simple and easy of accomplish
. pient - ' ' - . .
Ton will work all of the stems in out
. lino stitch, and If you are desirous of
- baring them, show affectively at
; m solid srer-and-over atltcn you will
carry out the petals and each half of
the eerrsted leaves. ; , . , ; .
' k Seed stitch may b substituted for
naif, of each leaf, with solid for, the
To Use India Print
B
IX' K and white India print cut Into
bias strips of varying width makes
aa excellent trimming for a child's
dress. - .
Hero is something' unique 'and yet
Veautiful. that -win not fads and Is by
ns means too old-looking for a little girl.
India print Is aa altogether desirable
and durable stuff fn color and quality,
' and can be used on fine or cosrse white
linen without the least danger of ths
colors spreading Into the whits surface.
, Button covered wtra the print wlU
add style, and then. ro. the end of ma
terial yew have left will do for a band
round tb dark bioa or white straw baL
A Button Revival
SEEK out yetr old polished steel
buttons and bring thera to ths
front; tbey see an evidence ef the
last style la costuming the lady beau
tiful. Tbey belong to tbe shepherd's
pi aid suit, te tba nary blue serge or ta
the mulberry l'ien. ,
Any shape wi'l do; the baTl button fa
tnwea etougtit for. but there Is else th
t f fiat cn the s of a dime, a nickel
trr a quarter. ,
fee rral po' h te rtrre them, and
g!ve tVww a rtb wth leef-.er Kf"r.j
yot tetT n. T store n fi4 mp
txAl'Tg ber tyss the buf.en bag.
f 1
other half If the desire be for a Frenchy
"piece f work, The flower centers art
. to be done In solid sutch or with a rew
of JTrench knots, surroundlngtbs saiid
worar. " ,
, ' White) is beat : la:; selecting the ma
terials, but the pals yellow Jflowar
centers may be used it green be chosen
for the leaves. In this event, the petals
will remain white, as Will the, button
, holed scallops, r . t-
- Doilieg to Follow. , .
Next week two "sizes of dollies will bs
shown to match - the 'centerpiece, and
with less work sccordlng ,to their les
sening proportions.
Bv the diasrram o the finished center
piece shown on the page you can get a
verv adeauate Idea of the finished piece
Btonjfe
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THE sice little collection of band
made medallions bars shown rep-'
reaents ths work of a bonvemak
Ing. housekeeping woman with only odd
moments te spare snd with very Ilttla
snoney to spend on frivols and frills,
ll l a well-known fact that a great
quantity of hand crochet Is done by ths
women of all countries, and has been
done for generations, but It may not be
so rnra!:y known that there ta row ax
6ridd rerlval of thla easily mads lace,
eornt rf whtrh l Ksi"i!ts to tke m itt
v'li the jrodjet of the Ir:H Jacemsk-e-
--
(-rtn., sti-1 feda'!'"e e-e
wel. ar l rr.:! may be drn with even
EACH ion UBhert In 'certain dls-.,
ttnctiv marka that atamp Ita aim v
. pleat frocka aa belonjlng to th aax
In question. Sometlmpa thee 'dlffar- ,
ncra ark. aa alight that an untrato4 I
might paaa the garment by aa the ,
wm old glncham dreaa, but to those
who know and, to "jiweet alxteen" hr-'
el; they take, on great deal of im .
portance. theae Uttl changes, and each
little twist and turn of the styles gives ,
th frock a definite position. " , .
Decided notes are readily found, but';'
ome of the more obaeura are scarcely .
discernible.' There la little change In -materials
for- young girls, there being
few new cottons and Unena , except
Muinvspuu iu uuiiaauKiog, wmcn are
made In both linen and .. cotton.
That made of cotton has a burlap ap '.
pearance 4 and Is not intended to be '
laundered. Coat suits are mad of It In
.dark and medium shade, and with very I
little fulness and few pleats because of
Its weight The linen la sold for 75 centa" "
yard, the cotton for 25 cents, and neces- ' 1
eerily the better, of the tworprsenta a
softer appearance In both color and tex-i, '
Ture.' Either-one la worthy of polished
brass or steel buttons as a. decoration."
French linens hold their own as cos-'
turns nd dress material, and. of all
the shades, rose, blue and yellow .are
moat In evidence for youthful dresses.' .
Garments mads" of firm . materia,
such aa linen and Its substitutes, usu- ' t
ally are made over model of sub-"
atantial style, and not suspended from .
Fancy Chemisettes
THE chemisette continues one of the
. "beat spaces for decoration on the
evening gown, and wilt be neces
sary all summer on . the garden-party
or .afternoon frocks.' The Dutch neck,
whether It be square or round, fre-
Quently demands a lace Inset;. all fichu
' shoulder drapery. 'admits of the let-in
atrip of lace across the back and front,
and the gulmpe at tlmee shows merely
f as a low-necked chemisette, .,
" Whether It, be a flat strip of stuff or
'be shirred Upon a cord, whether It be
.lace or plain net or sheer linen. It may
be decorated and by hand. - In fact,'
handwork -en this most prominent part
, of the garment adds the exclusive touch
that .makes the gawt::'-:-:-i)i
Here Is a nice little secret for the eco
nomical: Cut o"ut from old bobblhette
the fine motif f hand embroidery and.
applique It upon the new.net chemisette,
or, if its surface la no longer perfect,
place , It beneath the net,- that Its
beauty may be veiled; and, in this last
disposition of it,' trace It round upon
the upper aide with a thread of gold or
silver. '
' For the garment not intended to bo
laundered ther , are gold and. sliver
paint upon whits Spanish lace this for
a gray dress. It is put on in dabs Just
by way of effect, and a" good n It will
t ins musnns are emnroiaerea, as era
' sheer linens, and -the prettiest of dot--.,
ted net Is touched with applique of gold.
or silver braid tied in knots at Inter
vals, or Of the finest soutache tied in
; - knots. This 'last is cut, and each sepa- '
; rate knot la applied to a spot In the
.pattern. . "-v'ir-, ,
Curious Materials
THE Introduction of an odd bit of.
: material upon a very usual dress
;.ls ons of the new, ,notes in dress- :
making, i There Is, for instance, red felt
on broadcloth a bright flame red or an
English plnk-the merest patch or strip ,
of it with a raw, cut-edge. as the one
spot Of color on a shepherd's plaid cos
tume trimmed with black satin. t
' Chamois with cut edges appears on
another, and strange as it mny aeem,
the dress on which It was used, was
lavender linen. ,
tbe simplest little disks or wheels by
the Incorporation of them la the spuro
prlsts garment.
The crowslng "mUUV made by the
persietent nseref the medanon. whetrer
bought or home-made. Is the "insert . ot
Of ll In Hoisted spo. whre It srte
not to decorate, but merely ta disturb
the eye. '
The smaller medal'loa and thnse ef
fewer shspe are tised swressf ui'y Iti
an sliover embroidery pattern as It
setts In r-'' ef some r t-roi d
flom-er' iTrllcaied on tv t'i"rrd '
. p'gn. . Thia sliover "t Is i
baaJ5-ne laea dreije anj roi.r.J t'-.e
a delicate Uce-yok without any wear
ing quality. , ' ' ; v,
' Soutache and heavy cotton atar braid
. are effectlva upon linen, and the latest
fashion demands a. touch- of figured
foulard as tie and girdle. The four-ln-v
hand, looped through alota in the front
of the. linen bodice, ' gives a good
chance for the touch of ornamental
material of Persian, Indian or Egyp
tian design, . " , , '
Ginghams for.the young girl ar Iks
good style this year as they have efr
been.1 and their outlines are most nor
" mal. For Instance, ther Is no un
necessary fulness In bodice, sleeve jr
skirl;, and the belt, has dropped to the
usual line of the waist. - f
The panel, has more or less disap
peared; and in Paris the princess eJ
, feet has vanished altogether. x y
v.To remodel a last year's prince.ss
frock, have the panel In the -front end
If need be at the back, als But M y
to wedge In a iittle extra' fulness on
each, side of bo(h panels at the back
, and front f ' both bodice and. skirt,
and gird this lo with 'a belt at eacH
side. If there be.no material to match,
the ln"et of wide Insertion or of all
.over embroidery , will supply - soms
width and help ;out the stylo so that
It be not too passe. -, ' '
Pipings are most effective, and tho.
of striped materials, cut biased and fold
ed, are moat effectively used on plait
material. To adorn the girlish glnsr
ham dress, thr are plain pipings lot
In at every possible- place. : -
Ribbon Work r t ;
B BOB ABLY the expense alone kecms
many women from taking up the
. beautiful ribbon embroidery. Tins
,1s Ideal work, however, fop those who
. need not consider expense And, too, for
t those1 who make pin-money -from their ,
embroidered articles.;They s make an
appeal to the paying public that less
. elaborate fancy articles do not.
For the sake of economy all of the
ribbon from" an eighth-to 'an inch tu
width Should be got by the piece. Mqrs
; of the extremely narrow widths will be
required, and It is economy in the long
run to lay. in a full supply fit the wanted
. Colors. " ' '
. Corded silk and poplin are the best
1 backgrounds for ribbon embroidery, and
all thinner silks Should be basted first,
upon an open-weave canvas to prevent
their, pulling and drawing. AH. short
( Spaces may be crossed on the wrong
. side in going from flower to flower, but
v for longer distances ' the ribbon Is cut
and a fresh start made with a small
knot, both to' prevent unsightly drawing
'. and as an-economy In ribbon.
That delightful puffed effect in the
blossoms w 111 e destroyed If the ribbon
: is drawn too tightly, and all attempts
at fastening ends should be .left until
last, and the cut ends be pasted, with
4 library paste to the wrong side to in
'sure flatness of background. ' .
y Use Discretion -
V-jrjHEN) trimming thg; figured ma-
AA ' terials of the .eealdiw even In
' ' V i simple .tub dresses; do not be
beguried into using figured embroidery
or t lace upon the woven or printed
' figured surfaces. " '
i Remember, always, that striped or
. plain surfaces will best decorate the
figured background. Bold motifs of
lace may sometimes be used to good
effect upon a small set figure, but
f the overlapping process usually means
.little else than, an, excess which is
'never good.."- ; , ""'-,,
Trimming should decorate, should
sdorn, otherwise it la of no value; and
to best adorn the figured surf a-
will . require the discretion of tie
maker and the eye of an artist.
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lirr and sma,l,
cor.tfrmoua raw r
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