THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL; PORTLAND. SUNDAY MORNING. MARCH 6. J910'
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I SHALL tell you. first, the almpleit
way In which the design for tbU
week may be developed In both bag
and picture frame, and then I aha!!
suggest a few odd ways In which you
may work out the same design to suit
some room with a more unique color
rheme.
The picture frame. If you will cut
th material with an allowance of an
Inch beyond the outside line, may be
made over a cardboard foundation cut
the size of the design. In cutting away
the opening you will also allow an
Inch of material for capping the goods
round the foundation. A covered card
board back, the same size, should be
glued against the wrong aide of the
finished frame round Its three, edges;
the fourth should be left open to ac
commodate the picture.
Une quarter of the square bag Is here
shown, with a diagram of the whole de
sign. Jt is Intended to be lined with a dell-
Sewing for
M
ANT a prospective mother fondly
Imagines that the only thing
necessary for fashioning the lit
tle garments she so eagerly looks for
ward to making Is the buying of mate
rials and a set of patterns,, with the
work they naturally Involve. But even
here' she Is confused by the variety of
qualities offered for her Inspection, and
she often buys more for the pleasing ef
fect of the soft white goods in her tjands
than with reference to future wear and
tear.
A soft nainsook, not too fine, is best
for the little first garments. A material
almost "Hlazey" before laundering proves
softer and lesa "boardy" afterward.
This is more economical when bought
bv the piece, as extra lengths and 'be
tween pieces" can be used for bands,
facings and the smaller sections.
The patterns are Of great Importance.
They can be bought In sets and are gen
erally most reliable; but when the little
garments are cut and basted the novice
Is at a loss as to how to properly finish
them.
Of course, she knows the seams are
to be done by hand and that the little
sleeves and neckband should be com
pleted by a tiny strip of material or of
dainty embroidery; but does she know
that both sleeves and neck should be
finished so as to allow ample room for
growth?
ir a tiny tape h drawn through the
neck and round the wrist, this advan
tage Is easily gained; and the same plan
can be followed for the lower part of
the full yoke, where It joins the skirt of
the little dress.
The Inverted box-pleat generally folded
In under the sleeve, where the back and
front loin. i for the same purpose. The
new mother will And it only a short
time before all extra fulness thus gained
will be nepded.
Wristbands are another cause of de
spair to the average Inexperienced
Spring
AJIONG the more elaborate blouses
of silk, linen and applique for
wear with the ever-present tailor
ed -uit there are. as usual, any number
of designs, all beautiful,.' but differing
very little from the models of the pais
Inn season, except in their half and
throe-quarter length sleeves, which are
on the Increase.
One new blouse which Will appeal to
the women who are, affected by the pres
ent craze for oriental splendor In orna
mentation is of fine white net. almost
covered, with a design In gold, pearl and
silver beads. When worn ove a messa
line foundation- this is most effective.
Crepe blouses are still worn; but the
sleeves seem to have been shortened to
the three-quarter length, while the yoke
effect is almost universally used, thus
allowing for more ornamentation and
applications of hand embroidery.
Avoid .the too large design in embroid
ery upon -the crepe blouse, for launder
ing reasons; The crepe background
should not be Ironed. The heavy hand
work will require strenuous pressing
upon Its under side. Imagine the result
should large patches of the garment be .
pressed In.to outstanding puffs!
Blouses of white chiffon are heavily
emproiriered with French handwork,
done in a lusterless cotton and thickly
padded. Irfsets of lace and Insertion
generally panel the front and back and .
a i m
O--o --Q--O O0 -O -0--O--0-" W--o-- w vj- w ,
cate bit of thin China silk, the edges
slip-stitched together, and a circular
rasing run round the whole so that
when the bag Is drawn up It will form
a little round puff with four pointed
ends.
Little Ones
mother. Why not give tbem up entirely
by leaving the tiny arm'coverlng un
gathered at the wrist? Finish with a
narrow lace, above which, embroider
four mall buttonholes or eyelets. Run
a ribbon through these and draw In all
unnecessary fulness, tying it fast with a
bow.
The plainer the first garments are the
more comfort will there be for baby,
mother and nurse. This does not neces
sarily mean that all dainty handwork
must be eliminated. Edges should be
rolled when possible, to avoid the heavy
double seam.
Feather-stitching seems peculiarly ap
propriate for baby clothes, and when
once mastered is easily done. IJttle
hand-run tucks with lines of feather
stitching between make the daintiest of
yokes and the nestest finish for the hem
at .the bottom of the .dress; while. If a
more elaborate design be desired, ring
drawn from the center of one's wedding
ring and embroidered with the single
feather-stitch In a, wavy line down and
back make a lovely and sensible trim
ming. Dots embroidered In irregular lines, or
one in the center of each ring thus
formed, give a more elaborate effect.
The bottom of the underskirts both
of nainsook and of flannel can be scal
loped with a simple design; while tucks
run above the hem of the nainsook ones
and a dot embroidered In each scallop
of the flannel ones make them elaborate
enough for all everyday purposes.
Mercerised cotton of about No. 30, or
even coarser, can be used, while a soft
silk floss Is best for flannels. The little
pinning blankets are hemmed across the
bottom and up both fronts, where they
fasten over. They can be feather-stitched
with silk and are easily made.
Remember that, for the first few
months Of baby's existence, cleanness
and comfort are of paramount impor
tance, and elaboration Is needless.
Blouses
ornament the outer part of the sleeve
down to the cuff.
The front fulness, instead of being
tucked In at the shoulder, as formerly,
is gathered on to a shallow yoke with
cntre-deux of Irish crochet or cluny.
,'Pleated shirts of nainsook or linen
lawn, or even of fancy muslins, have
sleeves tucked in lengthwise tucks of
k the same size as those adorning the
front and back of the waist proper. The
four-inch cuff is turned back and edged
with a narrow ruffle or pleating of fine
material, and this is repeated down the
front in a graduated ruffle, starting with
a width of four inches and narrowing ".o
less than two at the waist line. When
a bit of color Is added to this the effect
Is charming.
Pin-stripe shirtwaists in colors to
match the suit are a fad of the moment,
and are made both of linen and of light
ilk. They are tucked to the full h?ngtn
of the shirt, and are daintier when the
side ruffle Is added to the front box
pleat. ' There are always novelty blouses In
colored embrofHery. but they are while
charming indeed hardly to be taken as
serious evidence of the direction in
which separate blouxe fashions are tend
ing. It may. be asserted. In general,
that, except for the mannish tailored
shirts, the -front fulness Is let in in
gathers instead of, tucks or pleats, and
there Is a tendency to greater fulpes
In all sleeves, although it usually stops
aj the elbow, or Shortly below. ,
c o 0
- - - o - o ; ! v
And now for the embroidery, which
ii to be done in advance of the mak
ing. Ecru linen is the background for which
thetf articles have been planned, and
beads will be necessary in carrying out
The Made-Over
Parasol
F
iIX up last season's parasol In ad
vance, and listen now to a note
of the season before you venture
on this timely renovation.
Fringe to match or to harmonize Is
the freh touch to be added In Imitation
of the newest.
11 is the quaintest-looking twisted
silk fringe, ranging in width from one
to three and a half inches and having a
fussy little gimp border, which there is
no effort to conceal.
After the parasol has been cleaned
with a soft brush or sponge dipped1
In gasoline (do it In the open air)
and allowed to dry, still wide open,
the fringe is basted upon the edge
and sewed by hand with silk to
ma tcb.
All of the work is done upon the
open parasol.
Home slight embroidery, like a row
of polka dots, may be done where
fringe joins parasol. They are put
on in the flat Japanese stitch, and
if of a contrasting color there should
not be chosen a note that Is too
strikingly different.
The conspicuous parasol is not
necessarily the most beautiful.
Frames of Brass
H
AVE you a photosrraph frame that
has long held a favorite photo
graph? Has its beauty waned or
your taste changed, while your heart
si HI holds true, to the face It incloses?
If so. hJe yourself to the dealer In
lwaten brass supplies, buy about a foot
of brass or less, if your frame be
small and after first carefully removing
the back mounting of the frame, the
glass and the picture, lay the brass
upon the skeleton left and care
fully bend it about the edges of the old
frame. Cut the center opening In tooth
llke sections, so that they can also ne
bent to the shape of the original open
ing, and upon the. smooth surface tlws
made copy with a lead pencil or tracing
paper some simple design of leaf or
lower. A conventional utencil design Is
good and shows im well when the
groundwork is-beaten flat.
To give the precious note if Individ
uality that we all desire, a monogram
could be added in one corner, and when
once mounted and the familiar face in
stalled you have a new ornament that
will be a. long-time pleasure.
For a Young Girl
THERE Is undoubtedly an age In
colors. The clear blues, reds,
pinks and yellows belong to youth,
and youth alone should wear them.
The time will soon come when the
pastel 8hade3. the lavenders, the shaded
purples and the shadowy greens must be
our lot. Therefore, "gather ye rosebuds
while ye may" and glory in all the
fresh, beautiful colors of youth.
It Is not one color that is too bright,
too loud for a young girl; it is the com
bination of two or more colors. If this
be remembered when replenishing the
wardrobe, and only those colors be
chosen which will combine with those
already got, fewer mistakes will be
made, and the number of "perfectly
hideous" hats or frocks hung in forgot- -ten
clotbes presses would soon diminish.
It Is a mistake for a young girl to
eliminate all th Stronger colors from
her belongings; for she. and she alone,
can do thein justice.
the design. On the-frame a heavy row
of outlining Is Indicated l.y the con
tinuous Tines bordering the design. The
dotted lines running between the little
circles are meant for a- more delicate
outlining with the same shade of
Practical Bead
work Br THE intermingling of sliver or
gold thread embroidery in the del
icate tracery of an allover design
upon yoke and sleeves of finest net, tbe
seed pearl, which Is now so fashionable,
may be appHqued to perfection.
By this new method the interweaving
of embroidery and bead the thread Is
carried from bead to bead In ornamental
design which enriches while It fastens.
Tubular bead fringe, too. haa been ap
plied by a more sensible process that
of the uncut fringe. In other words,
after drawing needle and heavy silk
through the edge of the material, two,
four, six or eight tubular beads are
threaded upon It, and the next stitch Is
taken right beside the last, which leaves
a loop of fringe. This, carried on Indefi
nitely, will produce a row of uncut
fringe of whichever depth you desire;
but the beads should be strung in even
numbers.
Blue Jewelry Is much In evidence, and
(he dog collar of sapphire-blue velvet
ribbon an Inch wide may be successfully
made by the application of tubular beads
of a gun-metal blue, with sapphire-like
jewels Introduced Into the design.
These are as easy as possible to make,
and thev may be developed in colors to
match any evening or afternoon gown
with a low or Dutch neck.
The dog collar of coral-colored velvet
for the dark beauty shows a large ob
long cabochon-cut jewel here and there
of a coral-like substance so closely re
sembling the real coral as to delude all
except the expert.
Imitation Is not to be upheld, except
in such accessories as contribute to the
color scheme of a gown. When cleverlv
and artistically selected and arranged
for this purpose the skill displayed
should recommend them to even the fastidious.
Bedroom Decorations
WITfr the love of all things colo
nial In our housefurnlshings
we seem to have evolved a
simplicity in window draping that Is
both charming and economical, in that
those curtains can be made ut home
and without the aid of a samslress
engaged by the day.
Plain net, In either square or round
mesh, may be made with a hem about
an inch In width along the two Hides
and across the bottom, or fine linen
tape, half an Inch in width, can be
sewed on the under side Just within a
narrower hem and made into a simple
design at each corner.
These curtains should hang next the
pane, while, for the inside hannlngs.
across the top of wtndow casings and
down each side of a group of windows,
figured cretonne or Knglish chintz is
generally used.
The longer strips reach just about
two inches below the sill, and are onlv
a width of the material, while the val
ance along the top, which is pleated on
rings in scant box-pleats, is about
fourteen inches long when finished, ami
extends across the longer pieces at the
sides of the window.
In tone, these draperies carry out the
color scheme of the room, but need
not be of the same flesign. It is best
when intending to use hangings of
this sort to have the papering or wall
decoration as simple as possible, un
less a paper cun In; found to exactly
match the material.
A room recently seen and much ad
mired had the head anil foot of the
plain Iron bed covered with the chintz,
while the spread and roll for the pillowa
wer of the same material.
The dressing table, bureau, chiffonier
and table tops were covered with a
transparent scrim lined with the cre
tonne and edged with a hcaVy rluny
lace of a deep cream color.
The walls were of green sitli, -.triied
paper and the rug of tuft neutral
coloring.
golden blown. anl the separated oblong
petals are all solid over-and-over stitch
dune in the snnn silk.
To give tr!W and brilliancy th.' two
different wlz! of small circles should be
coveted with large and small (lit beads
Cover for
WE NEARLY all use powder on
our fiues; we find it com
fortable, and, like the false
hair habit, 11 might Just as well he ac
knowledged, since everybody knows It,
anyway; but we all hate to have the
bald, bare box staring at our friends
from dressing table or bureau, and
many are tbj means employed to give
It a respectable covering.
The lingerie bag. Inclosing one of
cluimOH. seems t'uo most sensible, as
it is certainly the most dainty. Four
strips of material, about twelve Inches
In length and three In width, are put
tigeth r by lace insertion or bits of em
broidery, and a simple design In French
handwork Is done In the center of each
strip; or a lace medallion could be inset
in all but one. The fourth one Is em
broidered with the owner's Initials.
These four pieces are put to
gether In a novel way so as to make a
THE East Indian djibhah. which we
pronounce as if lis lirst and last
letters had been forgotten, in the
house gown of the idle rich in that far
off clime. Its elegnnce proves the as
sertion, for among tho.se Imported in
this country there lias never been
shown a material less rich than heavy
Shanghai silk, with oriental embroidery
of the most attractive type.
Tbe garment is, howver, capable of
development in Japanese crepe; so let us
tnMke one here and now. The pictures
before us show a back and a front view
for a garment, which we will suppose
to be lavender crepe from Japan.
In the main, the wave of the ma
terial runs ;is do our own gu d nis. up
and down. The front hrenrilh is broad
and plidn: theVe is one underarm gore
on each sld". while two go.vs with a
graceful center sluiie. somewhat on tho
1
k-v-fe JyJj W--'I
fine, quarter of rag
fiwcl on with gold-colored se'wlng silk.
I UlUve you will see that the natur.il
shrfile to choose for the China silk of the
ha lining, after you have follow d
tl). e directions for Its embroidery. Is
gold color or pale yellow, and the diaw
ribbons the golden blown of the finished
w ork.
l'"or more elaborate development gold
colored rococo ribbon may be substituted
for the golld embroidery upon the petals
and a gold thread couched along the
broken line.
Again, If beads are plentiful, the petal
spaces will each accommodate one large
oblong bead matching the smsUer ones,
which In this case would be amber or
gilt, on a background of rloth-of-gold or
silver, which is now so frequently used
for the French Iritis fancy work. Broni
threads couched fast with gold-colored
silk will belong nattrally to this old
French o(Tct. with a bronze cord for the
bag and a lining of pink silk, faded in
tone.
Klbbon and bead needlework are time
ly and beautiful, and the result Is worthy
of whatever effort Is put upon them.
Powder Box
square bottom to the bag a bottom Jut
about the size for the box of powder
for which It Is designed.
The end of each piece Is hemmed. The
length of one strip Is sewed along tbe
end of another, then a corner is turned
and the two pieces sewed together along
their lengths as fur as the now shorter
piece will reach. This will leave an
end on one piece as long as the width
of each strip.
When all four pieces are sewed to
gether in this way a bias effect is ob
tained, and when a casing for the gath
ering ribbon is run straight around the
bag Its little ears are left standing.
These can be edged with luce or scal
loped, and when the chamois bag is in
closed and the whole is placed 'among
the silver littering the top of the dress
ing table, the usefulness of its purpose
is lost to all but the most discerning
eyes.
v5W 'r7t Asa cJfcAfez.
bias, form the back. The sleeves are
slightly flowing and are lined with a
very delicate shade of Japanese silk
an iris white, which is so faintly purple
s to be merely tinged with that color.
The sleeve is slushed on its outer Bide.
.All of tho seams are felled on the
wrong side after they are stitched.
There Is 'a graceful sweep to the gar
ment, and its five-inch hem is weighted
to produce the dragging, sweeping look.
Now. this djibbah is slipped on over
the head, and closely resembles another
3( its kind, w hich la made by folding the
material over the shoulders and cutting
the head opening In the center of the
fdd. .
In either case the yoke portion is a
facing p laved upon the right side of the
R.(rineiit. with an opening cut In Ks cert
ter to fit the neck line of the djibbah.
The facing is jiolnted In the front, anil
at the back as well, as over-each sleeve.
IT IB now-an accepted fact that the
dainty woman hee on perfume to
which she adheres. Just as firmly
docs she hold to the bablt of sprinkling
it sparingly on her possessions,
"My Lady Dainty" considers It post
tlvely vulgar. 'to overectnt her little ae
cessorles, and she is none too pleased
If she is mnde the recipient of the muchn
scented article. Hhe would far rathrr ,
have the frivolous coat hnger which
you have made for her devoid of sweet
ni-Ms than reeking with It.
Remember the I'etarkin family ainl
l hdr sall d coffee? It Is difficult Indeed
to take out the superfluous ingredient,
but i very easy and simple to put. It In.
Kragran.e may be tucked in through
a ripped opening, on a cotton wad.
IIve you ever heard of baking the
cot ion wadding on which you have
sprinkled some scent powder?
The least lilt of the powder Is placed
between layers of wadding, which 1
then baked sllifhllv in a quirk oven to
' secure" It. It is thus made more per
tnnnent. This fs an English trick, and
the little Htav-at-home English girl la
good funcy worker on whose Ideas to
model your own.
Lavender leuves are a pleaslng'rellef
siiiong scents. Orris Is one of the de
lUhtM of tbe dressing table. A faint
Niniitestlon of sandalwood fragrance la
nber than the usual sachet, and many
of Hip oriental odors are a relief, but
should be used most sparingly, because
they are heavy.
Coat hangers need almost no scent,
though It must be remembered that their
metal frames are very wearing on coat
llniniis. and that i Is advisable to stuff
and cover them. If only with Soft lawn.
From skirl hangers mav be suspended
a pair of little bags filled with a great
deal of cotton and a tiny bit of scent.
Hm ea u drawers need, as a bottom
covering, a pad of delicate silk, wadded
and touched wlih fragrance. Closet
shelves are often treated in a like care
ful manner; but Iheir covers should b
thuinbtac kej to the back edge of th
wooden shelf to prevent Ihelr pulling
out. Either of these soft pads may be
made of silk muslin, or even of pretty
sllkuline, tufted with ribbon or With,
embroidery floss.
Tbe yell case, whether of allk or wide
ribbon, wlrethor a roll or a book-shaped
folder. Is one of the little niceties for
the careful woman, and its wadded In
terior can be made more useful by Just
a pleasant amount of fragrance. Th
same rule applies to the handkerchief
case. And then there are the cotmllesd r
little cambric envelopes to be sllppqd
within the folds of the undermusllns re
posing in bureau drawers or among the
blouses in the shirtwaist box. Theae en
velopes are buttoned shut, to contain :
without mishap the powder, which, IS .
lirst wrapped I nf white tissue paper.
Larger scent pillows are made for the ;
linen closet, and here, too, an added '
precaution Is necessary. The slightest
possible scent Is a delight when it goes '
out from the fresh linen sheet or pillow i
case, or wh"n It Is shaken out fronvtha-
folds if a fair linen towel; but an ex- '
cess of it is odious. -
There ae houseKeeperi who much
prefer an odor suggestive of the cedar f
chest for blankets and linens, and this
Is got by the use of bags filled Wito
cedar shavings.
The question of scent is a large one.
and could well be touched on occasion
ally with the approval of the popular
woman, whose friends are legion. She
It is who suffers most from an exce3
of sweetness.
In our model the one we are now
making the yoke portion. Is a piece of
delicate purplish satin, its front grain
running lengthwise, embroidered In lonsr
oriental stitch, without the least pad
ding. Tbe colors chosen are shaded jav ;
ender and white. The only blat-k (and K
gives life and snap to the whole) Is a
line of heavy chain stitch bordering th ,
satin yoke and holding It t the lower
part of the garment.
All material is cut from beneath Ih.v
yoke, after which H la lined with lb ;
lr-white silk.
Altogether characteristic of the djib
bah, and iti distinguishing mark, Is ,
gtraplik piece' of embroidered' ,ui.
placed beneath the arm, as If JioWi ii'
the back 'and the-front togethw. .
A perfect lounging robe it dva!ot'M jr
silk or swtin; nd a delightful "
uf little iiitrlm-lc value when- iujj o
one of tho pretty cotton crepes.
-rm j,.?.-?