- .
. - . ' . ' ' -
Each One Can Be Made' Beautiful," Says
it
Lady Duff-Gordon, the Famous "Lucile
of London, and Here She Tells . How.
A
L
Tiy Lady Duff -Gordon, ("Lactic")
ji:iS ere t :.if s chief mission ull Impc -ful.
tliu.ill l i;king w omen licim- When one of thru women put her'f
llful tiiouKl manv dressmak - In my handv Ih first thing I do Is to
rs merely mak dresses for so much laid on I wli.it kind of corbels iitie wear
money wit -.out repaid to the actual Sonic of tlie corsets are awful and make
beautifying of their patrons They Die w.a eis look as If they had a veranda
make the gown In Itself beautiful, put all around them. I give her the correct
forth superb creations, but many, many corset, and then I Insist that ahe ahall
t ines those creations really detract near her corsets loose; never laced, which
from the woman's beauty rather than is always the first thins; that a stout
enhance It woman does, and by pulling herself In
Now a dressmaker who has the real she accentuates her size and makes her-
feellng of art all through her s-hould nelf very ugly In shape Into the bargain.
in alt a htintv a sort of religion and The second thing Is to decide what .
make, beauty a son 01 re'1R on tt " Thr. ,r. , loveliness. She was present at four fabric, of half-tones and twilight tint.
snouia trim oci . , - - - coronations and ntw
ADY DUFF-GORDON the famous "Lucile.M of London, foremost
authority on costume and greatest living creator of fashions, gives so
lace in this article to plain women, thin women and fat women telling
tlicm how to dress to negative their bad points. Lady Duff-Gordon will
soon open an American establishment, at No. I 7 West Thirty-sixth street.
New York City. By special arrangement she will conduct the fashion de
partment of this newspaper and will write the fashion article each Sunday,
supplying illustration from the newest designs in her New York and London
establishments. Edi tor.
. ,. 1. K nntn " nixln (mill In nrhlstli 1 r a, mm l ml
idea, in her mind beauty rather than women the picturesque and appealing ,n same per od She was known to Co)or pl(,v. a Kr,at part n the beau
mere style the dernier crl. the latest type, and the bold, dashing type, with " Ml "rc" 01 lr,ena ana acquatntance. ,)fvIng of women by correct dress. It Is
agony from Paris If dressmakers did head held high and a sort of maaterful- was greatly admired. In fact no a Kreat m.take for a woman to select
this women would not all dress exactly ness. The second tpe Is the one Ynost debutante v" got more praise than this anv coor Ju.t because It Is the fashion,
alike and the fashion makers would commonly found among New York stout 5ln'y "Ule old lady, yet had she dressed and ,rot off t0 ner dressmaker and say
not have so much power nor be en- women; the very condlUons of thought ln ,he regulation modes of each passing ene wll, have a B0Wn made of that color
and environment, 'ear ne would have been commonplace, W,nout a thought as to whether it U
which have made leat appearance. becoming or suitable
Thin women 1 almost always dress In to her or not Many
pale colors. They do not call attention a pretty woman has
to their extreme thinness as black or bn ma(Je t0 appear
lays wore gowns of with trlcklsh tunics and floating scarfs.
r:-.- A
5 SJ - - mM" I
' 1 Xt - r v I
H '
her stout, have
given her this ex
pression and man
ner and created her dark colors do. And. of course. I have r- UKy Dy an H). chosen
type. course to a greaf deal of fluff but Huff color tnal wai out of
If sha Is of this ' dangerous unless carefully considered, narm0ny with her
lahlng type I dress even fr thin women. It must be Just the own natural coloring.
particular kind of fluff that the Indl- Ksny women have a
vidua) type calls for, else It Is disastrous, native a,ni of color
It, otVCurse, to her Most tnln women I dress In a picturesque election, and seem to
type of beauty or tyle. I find It serves my purposes best. K,10w by Instinct, or
out, or course, here again l cannot speak a wlRe sixth sense,
ln general terms, for each woman, as a what beIongg t0 ih9m
type Is a law unto herself, and not but when j flnd tnat
being a manikin I have to study each . w.oman hasn't this
make things plain soul and then dress that which In more nstlnct, I select the
and flat-lying. Of comprehensive words means that I dress coorj ' f0T ner A
course there are ex- her according to her temperament and piajn wornan can D
ceptions all along her own ugliness or loveliness. made lovely by Just
the line, and I A few very stylish thin worrlen who jne right scheme of
have dressed a very are smart and masterful, and d.-irk In coloring In a gown.
stout woman in coloring. I dress In 'dark bright colors, j-or eJan)n
brilliant colors with with smafl I'ertlan designs, and stylish ..mo .. . ' '
, woman who has a
large figures, but blond women i dress In tnln. mysterious du1( muddy C(impex.
Ion would appear ex-
her In the prevail
ing mode, adapting
ugliness as the case
may be. I, how
ever, gown her ln
dullish colors and
The Prettiest Dress May Be Made Ugly if
Worn Awkwardly, Says Lady Duff-Gordon.
This Photograph of Lily Elsie, the
English Actress In One of "Lucile's"
Dresses Illustrates How.
"The
masterful
fat woman.'
able to send forth all manner of gro- her type was unique and the manner tn
tesque and awful mode, knowing full which the gown was arranged made
well that however ugly they may be her appear more slender,
women will accept and wear them I do not fit things closely or tlphtly on
like slaves a s,nut woman- 1 make thB llnes lle
, It should be remembered that no loosely on her figure and create as many
woman Is so ugly that she cannot be loop smart lines as possible. Although
. made attractive by the art of dress; a few stout women look well In the
nothing short of actual deformity and Empire styles. I find that a little ac
accldental disfigurement can baffle a centuatlon of the waist line In the proper
really artistic creator of dress and place Is better, but never the tight, laced
'ven deformities may be successfully ln waist ln any case.
hidden. I have even made humped The appealing type of stout woman I
balc women lovely to see with flow- dress In a period fashion; by that I mean
ivg lines and soft laces, and the ugll- I study her needs and then select for
"ness that conies of beliiK too fat or too her the styles of a certain period In the
.tiiln Is child's play. I delight ln mak- history of costume. Perhaps It may be
5ng- such women lovely. mediaeval, away back In the dark ages.
, AH ugliness is disharmony, and dress or it may be 1S40 or ISIS or some of
Imay be made to restore harmony. It Is the French styles of the alluring Louis
really simple enough If one only tries to periods. Of course I adapt this period
educate one's self toZee. style to the modes of the moment, but
In New York the over-fat woman pre- the main idea Is so plainly carried out
dominates, and In London the over thin, that any one could recognize It at once
It is a matter of climate and mode of as belonging to such and such a period,
life and thought Women make themselves Every woman after the age of sixty
of these extreme types unconsciously, should adopt a period, be she stout or
and if they changed certain conditions thin, and It will be found to add greatly
.iJiey would become normal, but that is to the charms. Many women In England
fi" M:er story, as Kipling says, and one do this and It Is beautiful. My lovely
that takes one too deeply into the science aunt. Miss Puff-Gordon, who died re
ef psychology and too far away from the cently at the age of eighty-nine, was
art of dressmaking. ",ne of the most exquisite old ladles I
1 I have had so very many stout women ever saw, and she always dressed In
come to mo since I have been In New the style of JS45. fiever changing. In
Tork, and they look at my models in de- fact she dressed In the modes of that
; tjpair and say: "Oh. do you think you period straight from 1845. She had
eould ever dress me to make me appear wonderful Utile caps and lace frills about
slender?" And when 1 answer -'Yes'' they her neck and wrists and flowing skirts
: look incredulous, and many times not at that seemed -a reverent contribution to
Hi X km iiti -r-n
, HI'sT'-A rt V t 1 in
9mW
'1 ' V -
4 - " r : ' 7
"The
Appealing
Type."
r 1, i"1 ' am- 1
I
lutein
1
I if
; ill 1 -
1
111:1
111 '
fell fi
I i !
1 ? SS ti. ,4
Fig. 1 A Corrective Gown for
a Stout. Woman.
eeedlngly ugly in dull
reds, browns and" any
tint with' yellow or
red In it. whereas her
skin might be made
to appear clear and
fresh by th arrange
ment of cool, clear
colors.
The rang of wbltW
also means a good
leal. One could
carcely believe, who
had not had It proven
to her, what a vast difference It makes
whether one has tne right tone of white
or not. Some women look far more love-
cream white than In blue white.
beauty has been brought out in a
WOman hv rA.alnff V,r In ln.r
t the right tint of white, for the delicate
tonea that go under the 'name of -vhlte
are infinite. Some tend to a faint flesh
color, others to ecru, or lavender, or
Ivory, or pearl. There are oyster white
and lead white, sod so on. They mean
a very great deal to the artist, though
to the average person they are Just
"white."
It is rather a delicate thing to give
examples of how I have made ugly
women appear beautiful, but I have se
lected a few Instances which I am go
ing to give without using names, and
I am also showing sketches of the
gowns that were created for this pur
pose of regenerating beauty.
I have In mind a gown of a wonderful
shade of blue gause, made with a very
decollete slip and the yoke fashioned
of sheer dotted silk muslin In white,
revealing the flesh beneath. There wa
a reason for this particular color and
this exposing under a mystery covering
of white the neck and bust of the
wearer. She was a very plain woman
when she appeared before me with a
high stock collar seeming to accentuate
her florid heated face, rather an ugly
shaped figure and no visible charm at
all save her eyes, which were a beautiful
violet blue. Throat and bust were ex
quisitely lovely, the flesh, being of a very
striking Ivory. This I determined to re
veal, so I had the transparent collarless
yoke of white, which not only revealed
her chief beauty to the sight, but seemed
to cool her hot, feverish complexion.
The peculiar pale sapphire blue gauze
also tended Jto cool her complexion and
to lend her an ethereal air that was en
tirely lacking when she appeared be
fore me. I hid the defects of her fig
ure ln soft straight lines of gauze and
tied a scarf of pale silver gauze about
her host tnat below two lovelv criSD
white lace frills that stood erect below pjj 2 A "Lucile" Gown for
ner lovely uosom. in iuw buwu out? wo
exquisitely beautiful.
Theie was another gown that was
fashioned to correct a bad figure. The
woman for whom it was made had an
extraordinarily long waist, Joining the
hips In $ wooden, angular fashion that
was very ug.y. in ev.,i. uwu ecullar 8cheme of coloring, which
made with an undefined waist and petuum nmi.ivtnn ,
1 ft ; vwv-.
5 i Mt
The Newest Photograph of Lady Duff-Gordon.
(Photo br Marceau.)
gown of violet and sash of deep royal Figure 2 shows a charming little froSfe
The pink and violet lent to the which served as a medium for making
woman's pale skin a tint of roslness, the plain, shapeless young woman Into ao
violet brought out the reddish hair tints, attractive miss, who Immediately be
and the deep rich blue of the sash ac- came engaged to-be married after hav
centuated the blue of her eyes and made lng this little frock made. She looked
her appear striking, whereas If she. had so pretty that she won the heart of a
been dressed all In one color of a suaceptlble officer of the Ouarda, and sha
characterless sort she would have, been declared that 1 was the creator of her
dull looking. life's happiness, as well as her gown.
Figure 1 shows a gown which made -hch led me to the amusing conclusion
a stout, badly-shaped woman with florid that dressmakers may sometimes b
coloring and Inky black hair Into a matchmakers, unconsciously or other
beauty, though previously she had always wise.
been regarded as ugly ln face and figure. This little lady had too short a wait!
and had settled Into a sort of hopeless to be beautiful when dressed at its proper
despair about herself. line, and -so I gave her a still shorter
Tho woman had an enormous upper waist Una In an Empire model She had
body, a huge bust and very fat shoulders, an unpleasant gray sort of skin and pala
which she made to appear fatter by pink lfljo. Her hair was an ashy blond,
lacing herself tightly and thus crowding She was. In short, a colorless tort of
her superfluous flesh upward Into a moun- person with a rather bad figure. I d
talnous mass, which, with her florid skin, signed her a frock of warm, rosy pink
gave her an appearance of choking. ilk. with a puffy little waist tied round
The gown shown here 'was of rich, in Empire style with a short, fetching
clear, olean roy-al blue cashmere de sole, little sash of a darker, warmer rose, with,
with revers faced with ecclesiastical fringed ends. I had the corsage cut very
purple. The underdress was of pure low and round and fllleXl in with a trans
white chiffon, transparent over the bust parent, finely-tucked' yoke of dotted silk
nnd chest to color off that florid face, moussellne which had a deep turned
and there was no collar at all. The over allr frilled all around. The decolle
edge. were finished about the neck and taK was also frilled about Its edge.
bust with thin fiat silver and gold. Over nd down one side of the gown extended
,hls white underdress was a shorter one fu Wll of lace and pink embroidered
,f role cl - coo, wlatarm blue, bor- '"on, each frilled with lace, and about
, .u m J lhe l?0tt?m was Pleating fllid with laca
dered with gold gauze. , at the top and the wrists had trills ot
This combination ot blue and purple ace " "
tended to make the wmnJ .fff0 It was the sweetest, rosiest, frilliest
tlful. It. with hpshXrir somewhat affalr- and "eeedlngly becoming to th"
rtrses. covered her florid, somewnat young wearer, who at nnr ti, o .
ilgar coloring, ami u.B Biignuy rosy eolpr, And the frills of laca
the robe, coupiea wim mm eeemea to remove Her plainness at once,
and looser corset., corrected the aerorml- Khe was a beautiful picture hv it, and I
ties of her figure. Her huge bust seemed am not at all surprised that the young
to have diminished by half. guardsman thought her lovely.
The Lines of Dress
for a Stout
VYoman Should
Be Loose. While
Miss Gertie Mil
ler, Another
English Actress,
Whose Photo
graph Is Shown
Here, Is Only
Pleasantly Plump,
She Illustrates
the Point.
the Short-Waisted.
How to Indulge In Tea and Coffee Safely.
zreeable and stimulating bever- the leaves in the ,.,, ' , " "oe other tea has never yet. except with poured lnto 8pecal Turkish cups, which
agreeable ana si muia iiw '' uie,eaes in the teapot (which jiuist first crtain insular English travellers, taken resemble an egg cup, the little cups
age Into disrepute. Judiciously indulged be thoroughly rinsed and healed) and left u,e Place of coffee us a beverage abroad, having been carefully heated to receive
In. tea is Innocuous as well as an--t'eaWe. to Infuse from three to seven minutes 1 from being hurtful to the health, the liquid, which must be served at
It must not v, tkf.n ton freimentlv or tm i ' . ..,:... , " coffep. If indulged in only in moderate once or its peculiar aroma Is lost
. . . . '" ' " " """ltl Wl muiii ana iahie j quantities, is a bonellclnl tonic' for the In mnWirro- nPliin.rv fr.. (k. k..n.
v.fi,k v, . ,i.i K,iUr .. . . . . err;:. . iy.iiv m m
u,"c' rW a3 u ls reaay the liquid should orain and a salutary stimulant for the should, if possible,
be roasted, but If
of the dangerous element In the tannin, be poured off the leaves into another not, , 11 need not be sald ,hat 'ile cKeh not they must at least be ground at
W people think that so ,oB as a thus securing all the flavor of the theine f'SllpreadA cXZ STtttSZt i?, anofoVech S'kVa.0 c-'
blgh price is paid the tea must be good, with as little as possible of the tannlti. of all coffees, and should be the fouuda- ful. but if many cups Tare , bVln ori-
but this does not follow. A cheaper tea The leaves need not, however, Le hrown iio ,?U cofree blends
pared this proportion may .be reduced.
... .,,1, . ,.t. . m k ....... . .... .... . - ... vunee is 1101 easy to maxe. scald tne cones not nut th. Mr. In
7, . , . V . , , V y' " S" ,nluslon wn "ot water and requires practice. The coffee and pour on the bolUng water and infuse
district better, aud In any case ...ore dc- will produce a brew quite nice enough eygar are. placed In the cafetlere with at the side of the 1 fire Tfor five minutes!,
pends. strange though It may seem, on for the second cup. water according to the number-of cups Pour out a cupful or two and return It
th. method of tea-making; than on the When sugar Is used In tea it shou.d SStl ilZZ'X
quality. It Is not generally known, for always be allowed to dissolve before the Th- coffee should boil three times settle, allowing the coffee to be
instance, that whjle black teas require milk is added tnat !s- tne cafetlere should be held strained Hot milk should be served
'"" " '" " . Eur. 0,,, Jo , ri.'.t :SV,b.'"i,l'.V.S'"'i".;fr. Z!r
V
:
14 ' - cyyr4 1 " i
straight masses hanging over the- .real
lines of the ugly figure, a sash of chiffon
was tied up under t$e bust' and thus
deceived the eye. ;
Thn gown was . also designed ln a
was
suited to the wearer's complexion, which
was rather pale, with very red lips, blue
eves and reddish brown hair. The scheme
' . n.rt rtala rosv nfnlc. main
waa uppei v- - '