The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972, December 05, 1909, Page 26, Image 26

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    Copyright, 1009. by Amei !canEmlner. Great Hiitein Hlghta fUserved,
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howtop. of thm bit f earioui Mil of turn I144 . touch. . f fln Chm It I. t),. n.w Met .wfcloh l.c op th KaW an .Ilrer hot thread., and thl In tauy chiffon built Into eoata for out
ttom.ni hudgwr. Th.r? wlll probably, broldary, and wat worn .with brilliant front In.taad of at tha back. Thin of turn fall. or foundation of vivid blua door , war. A youna woman ntara4
maka th Audubon Society vorr, unoom- ,ren beav.r bat with cluatara of black all'tha 'trouhl and bad temper thla will aatln. between which and the metallic Maxim'a th other afternoon eJad in a
fortabla. ,,' , if 1 : villi . . , " ';, ' . . ', " ; avt 1 It waa ao al(npl. and yet no oh fa brio la a vail or "clouding" of crean black Batla town orar which' bong
Uma. Luclla, better known aa Lady , Another . Intareatlnjlpotnt of ,'th coa. aeema to have thought of U before, Tha chiffon that glvea a wonderful. jnter. knea length coat of black clilffon ma4e
-Duff-Oordon. creator , of "th , aaatheUo tumea, which atrtklngly reaerobla th back , la , left entirely .plain. . Ther art oualy "trleKeffeet to th gown. , perfectly looea anj with aleevea "cut la
gown," gv on of her. faahlonabl Mat tolleU of th early yara of last century,, no, rldgea '. or , awkward threada. Th Tha ankla -length velvet coat bor- ana with tha main garment Thla limn
homea" laat week at which a number of wtl th gganti0 muffa worn without hooka and yea run bealda tha lacing. dared all around with fur aa expenalv looking coat waa bordered all around
other noveltlea wer aea ' atolei Theae muffa. aa larae aa feather "Tha new "aad 'a-owwa Of Parla .bare "one'a pura can oompaaa la . atlll with ekunk fur and fn.in.,i hiin,..i
In tha flrat place, although eklrta were euahlona, wer mad of fur or velvet and teen apoken of. Ferhapa on thing that nother novelty. Bab! on haa If poa- Xrom ahoulder,to kne under a 4Mnd, of
aauna. . u not; ana enuri or the fur. The weiror of .hi. .mh.
aa th Breach euphoniously irv wran earrled hm.. mw t .u..i.
pleated. th pleata wcr ao noatly atltchd Uned wth ,atn wln bin(J, 0f brilliantly makea , their buyera aad , la thaJr price. lo,i
and pressed that th Idea' of the alender MXmtl valvt-bordering th nda-oUJaIhla-U,hoi;jBiy- Udy-la InltJaud Into "Uu,rf'M
atralght-Uned eoatuma waa atlll preserved. fu
Mm. Lucll had not even deaerted tn - .manjhatiwa: wetlln Jtvldence,
Wh-waJte4 ' effect, ,for aavarai ; amaxi -0j af.th autIntMt models waa a ttny
' ' ' , . ,., round moleskin tocjue, fitting on the head
almost Ilk a Dutch cap, with atrlnga to
tie under the chin. - Th majority of th
pink roaea and heather.
Wonderful color achemea wer worked
i into the evening and tea gowna. A aoft
yellow meaaalln frock waa trimmed with
silver rosea, an exquisite tlu gown with
dull silver lac. A magnificent tea gown
1
t"
the financial feature: '
.K'n with peach ' aatln . aa a .
foundation, " Madam admonishes.
"Satin," on obediently lots Jown on
the afiODDlnr memoranda. , l"
"Over that,""lnitructa the arbiter of
hats were 'almost guiltlesa of trimming, our frock, "w will drop a tunlo of meta.1-
On lovely black velvet model had a tiny Ho gauie." . . '
ruchlng of cerise ostrich featberi An.t ia t absolutely' necessary, to have .
other had orange and flam-colored feath-' nln under the gauaer on meekly
era. And a third toque In seal boasted suggests.' "Wouldh't near-satin do Just
m .J t - Vn nnii.4 ft rt 1 41 iim. v '.-., I
" ' Neverl" forbids th oracle In horror
"Only genuine . satin - ,
and good aatln, at that
( will glv th i propr
eiuslve gleam through
th gauze. And over tha
gause," . ' continues . the,
cheerfully, "we hang a
clouding of chiffon"
"All the way . down to
th feet? ' on f altera
appeallngly.
."All th way," assert
the inexorable one. "And
over tha ' chiffon . cloud.
lHg,7be proceeds bryilc-
ly.: "goes the final layer
of net, embroidered with
cabochon JeVeli match
ing tha Indescribable tin:
produced ' by aatln, me
talllo gauze and chiffon
th ' look of r sadneaa
prescribed by Paris." '
Th look' of ' sadness,
on reflects, will prob
ably ba most apparent
In .one's bank ; account, 1
but that la a detail. '.
term u ia qu aa correct and raah- tar and tiid and th. mir .-
rJ. .,parntlyt that kept her warnv.
Thar la another . xtrm -.
' " - chang in tb new; dinner and"
bau gowna, let It be saldvln pass,
ing. .' They ar ao extravagantly
low that th ordinary corset ia !
Impossible, Th V deeolletaga .
frequently touohes the waistline
at the back, t deacenda farther .
in front than would be allowable
with a cut showing roor f tha
ahoulden With these very low
... . 1 :
1
y'
'THo"Queer ' NW Sh6es With' the Haik6n the Outside; Made-of Untanned Coltskin, and the -
New Striped, Many-Colored Stockings Above Them.
""Ts 1
V ' i 1 1 11. 1 mi 11 m , ably be most apparent V ,""
'id ' ' ' ; "" In one's bank , account, a1' ' '. ' ' "
. ' F ' - - I but that la a detalL '. . : - Z..1-. V.
,' '4W. " it S' 1 X j .... . , I ' 1 ,
"We"- v : v. Nil : '
'
y
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.
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j Paris, Nov. 20. -too. They are or one color half way ui
R ARIES, which sets the fashions gen- the calf. Then they change suddenly
erally, haa decreed quite a num-; into another contrasting: color, with
ber of oddities this season. All elaborate designs. The "barber pole"
are ' the "best of form" and all - are effect the unelect designate them,
quit sufficiently startling. It may It will be news for many that tha
seem wonderful but one manifestation high, heels have been killed In Iondon.
eeems actually to have a good reason In their place reigns the Louis V. heel,
behind It This la the corset that laces which has a curve that gives It the ap-
up tb front pearance of height but la really quit
One of th most striking novelties normal. ,
are th 'Shoes with th hair on th -Transparent evening wraps are, how
outside. 1 . ever, the very latest craze In Farta,
They are .much affected by tha and it is safe to assume when one ob
younger women who like very short serves these fraglla protectors from
skirts for' street wear. But they wilt the cold over bare shoulders In th
also be used by the elders. The abbre theatre and opera foyers that a sub
viated .petticoats that frisk down atantlal wrap of good, warm fur haa
Broadway, shocking aa they may seem been left In limousine or brougham
to Knickerbocker folk of the ancient outside.
regime, ar sedate compared with soma ' The transparent wrap shown '.here
of the tailored skirts now being worn was designed for a recent Important
la Parlsu . Theae short skirts call for trousseau, and Is a French creation of
faultless footwear and all sorts of fad- black - net, . heavily embroidered with
dish effects are being taken up by tha gold threada, the motif employed rep
woman who loves to create a sensation, resenting a mediaeval royal emblem
So the hair on , the "outside boots or- much used In the Moyen Age period of
Igrlnated. 1 ' dress. A heavy' gold gauze ribbon run
Th new boots are made of the soft-' into the hem of the cape glvea weight
est colt and calf pelts In which th and , richness to tha pattern of gold
abort velvety hairs are left like the embroidery. There is little or no weight
coverings of old-fashioned trunks, and to these new garments except what the
a little pair of whit calfskin, boots, embroidery gives.
tricked out with patent leather trim- ' The mention of sold threads calls up
mlngs are captlvatlngly dainty. in the mind a mental picture of sump-
It Is said by some cynical ones that tuous gleam and glitter; but all that Is
tha new shoes make a woman's feet sold does not glitter, this season by
look somewhat like a cloven hoof, any means. , In fact tarnished effects
Whether this bo" true or' not they, are ar the thing, and most of the gold and
certainly striking. In some cases' th silver trimmings on ultra smart frocks
whole shoe is of the untanned hide. In look aa though they had been dug out
others It is combined with 'patent of a trunk atandlng for years in a
leather. One of the queer effects Is damp cellar. "Triste" colors, aad ef
gained by a cuff of patent leather fit- feota. are the French cry Just now. and t
ting around the ankle and buttoned to everything with a suggestion of scin
the top of the shoe. - tlUatlon Is chastely veiled to produce
Madame Tetraxzlni brought over a the modish sadness pf hue.
new shoe fad in the shape of walking Rostand's "Chantlcler," or animal play,
boots whose tops wer surrounded by has already : produced a new fashion In
rings of fox fur. ' Another novelty in hala. It is called the "bird's nest" The
shoes Is an evening style which has crown of the hat Is fashioned to form
already received the name of "peek-a- a- nest Wnol families of birds ar
boa". It Is Of delicate. ' flexible Inathap nlnrod !n h octFAma taxhinnu jgnma
perforated, with very giddy little fig- women have gone to the length of having
urea, The stockings ahow. through artificial eggs placed within. The bird
these holes. , is "set" upon th ."nest of the hat Just
Th Blockings, by th way, are odd. as though It wer alive. ' Th illustration
The Utet Corset, Which Ucei Up the ,
, Front Instead of the Back.
little shopping costumes
had long coats with
' belts almost under the The New
arms. One of the da In- .
tlest walking .gowns ' Vpen
waa blue serge, very Peek-aBoO
imply made. The
makes for shopping and
morning wear are sim
ple and marvelously
trim.
The blue serge cos-
, This Is the' Net Wran.
Heavily Ornamented. But
With Wide Meshes and
of no Weight.. w
2a
' fcs C ' n f I - ' '
' V";' -1
V ' i A
. f: t' ; .
' In I ' ' SU
. ;' I .- .
f - - ' tfA- -r-X XZKU$
fit -.u'7: 11 vt1 V V "
' 'y::. , V- 1 '
" fJ ' v-- V.
. " - . ; ,
. " - " - . A " n ' '
f ' t , , .
' -:.:-
fnl
The Odd Bird's Nest Hat.
Made Sometimes With' a' Fam
ily of Little Stuffed Birds
Within It, and Which
Is Straight From
Paris.
"1
corsages are worn corseta extending only
a few Inches above th waist although -tha
hip portion is as uncompromisingly .
confining aa any ordinary model follow
ing -modish line. ...
, The new lace up th front 'corset la a
typical French creation.' and shows th
extreme suppleness of new Parisian cor
sets, thej bones being -placed only at back,
front and sides, and the material ol th
corset being of open meshed canvas stuff,
In on of these corseta th figur Is as
free and unconflned above th waist as
lonable as arlstocractlc sable, thy main that of a winged Victory, while th waist
difference being In the- price and in itself and the hip ar kept -slim and trim
one's personal satisfaction In' possess- as the conventional frock Of th moment.
'Ing 'the best to be had. demands. ' , , : '
The' long velvet -coats are stunning, And.' to ' get - back to' ahoes ' again,
and they are really far mora graceful where thla article Started, reports from
'than the "somewhat bulky coats of England seem to show that there will
caracul. and pony skin,- which have be- be many changes next spring aa radl
come so tlresomely familiar during: the cat as tha halr-on-the-outslde faihlott
past .year or two. . Not only tha coats. Wa are to return to th "sensible" to
however, are of velvet. Clad In -this new that' which la neither too wld nor'
model, women seem ' to- have stepped d too. pointed. Even In men's bota
model, wdmen seem to have stepped down square fronts will be rare. ' .. ,
from old paintings, clad In their dark Black glace will be much' In evidence '
velvet frocks with broad lace collars and In men's . footwear and tan glaoe wilt
cuffs. There Is'a charm about these be- very popular among women. " " '
quaint, old-fashioned costumes that A bronx brown' la becoming very
makes an instant appeal; and the black popular,' and bpots with a fawn, grey, .'.
velvet drss retleved by snowy lace at or 'drab upper . portion and glased '
throat i and elbow la certain to be a golosh ar Increasing In favor. " ' '
marked feature of Winter fashions. Al- . Ladles who have held out against ? ,
ready these "Vaa Pyke" costumes are the brighter colours in the new foot- '
becoming: familiar In the restaurants, wear will be captured probably by th
and the blar black plume-trimmed hats new areya.' which look very dainty.
Another Queer Hairir W:t.J d . t .V ... that accompany tham mak them ex- Royal blue, saga grreen, and plnm-
, . iry onoe. With a Patent Leather 'Cuff" ' ceedlngly picturesque. . coloured ahoes ar atrongly favourd.
i m .'-" ' 'he Top. ' -,'v , , The new velvets are raglike in Hmp- Th exhibition Introduces on aw hu,-
with Tht!.Mn J?9 T.'e. trimmd ; . A sad gown direct from th hande of fona In their draping qualltyv In fact ao popular for venlng gowna
wm 'r mJ 7 a. fairyllk model the. French wizard. Worth, is wonderfuU chlffona nd velveU ar used' Inter- In fact;the Whol trend of fashion
whirl. ' .Plat orchids. ; over In this doloroua creation 1 an overdress changcably; and It aeems a topsy-turvy seems to b toward tb blaarr and the
icn was worn a cloak of primrose. V b,tJ chlffon . mhroidered with tar- seaaon with .velvets "used .for softly IndlvlduaL Perhapa It is an advance
ui m useful innovation in. aU this niahed allyer la draped abov aunio. of draped dinned and i opera' gowna and in progrea. . , .. ; . (
Reading Character By the Nose and Eyes.
' T'HERK la no more Interesting study on no feature can w mor surely recog- trusted; they are passionate in temper , to th touch, shows gentle . "feminine
I In llf than that of phyelogoaomy. nlz th truth of the aaylng than th hu- 'and the affections. The' haael eye 1 characteristics a desire to pleas that
. From the learning of Its first pi-hv man mouth. " inconstant distinctly the fllrt'a eye may border on vanity. , Kd hair alwaya
r eiple to th time when th student na "- Soft expressionless" baby llpa grwV"tBt- Uvea, a side glance then, looks th0Wa force bold, bad tempered, disdain-
... progressed ao that expreasion, gesture firm, droop at th corners, tiki oa a down " Tb daar, atralght glancing ful but alwaya fore, Golden .half aug
th vary way a man or woman walks, hundred curves and expreaalons a th , ' th ' t be trueted. "tDl resu love of amusement and Inconstancy,
tella a story from beginning -to the nev- horizon of . llf wldena. Tha most ad- P08" EFa ,,r Prt eU et n'r strong features and dark eyea and ;
rarrtvd-at-end---physiogonoovy la aa mirabl moath I that la which wlI-'tnkn" cBlor' nd simplicity. brows can redeem golden locks from thla
fascinating aa it la useful . - . moulded lipa cloae easily en even teeth. 'MUM undoubted fact that the Fcrtp- charge. Soft-haired . folk .hate bothers
If one quesHona- which featar of tb Wuh wtU-carried head thla shows tur torT ot E" nd Jcob b out nd quarrels, because they ar sensitive
human Term should be first observed br 'If-'aapect. reserve, force, and a well- theteachlngs of phyalognomy. and highly at rung, not becaua they ar
tb atudent, one mlxbt well aiv aa Ii-al. atura Aa open mouth ' la " Th b man u ren tb ro. cowardly or Ifcapabl of action. . v
repir and aay -A nr al nee! undo'btedlr lh ,dl ' mouth-often thla 1X and warlike Individual: th , Th. aoae "like a beak- 1 the Success-
the harmony ar otberwta ef th reaturea r,,-nrr,Pn' a retrWatlog forehead and amooth skinned the crafty bus! neM like ful commanding eos. . This la th ao
meat first b conaJdered. and deductioaa t"t tells of lack of fnteiliiene fl. - ... . . : of all leaders of men when aaaooatad '
mad whea a feccefol rWj'lngtoa !. B wlil-force. Tbln lips suggest cruel- " I-ongharr Indicates cneroirty. Short with a strong ehln aad tBouta. Th
for example, is aTUed t a weak cbla. r " partlcuUrly when u" flulck wit. and- irritability. ' Dark stralgnt o shows a lor. of beauty. '
. , f . lacking la color. An overhanging op- hair shows alrength: when straight and and a cold aad .rather ae!f-eoataloi
- lS 1 V? lh Prt,- per Hp, particularly if abort, ahowa oily, roelanaboiy. Curly hair auggeata nator. Tb -turoed-ap-, no Is m
...y?y . P to fc kindly. ertttle temperament. Blue awd lemper and an ardent dinoalt Ion. aee of tb bright, amusing, rather ia-
lLJV j i , . fHW ar. ,Tta mrt jr.r.U. sweet-tempered, and Tljo-fair-balred ar enrany the drtam-, qaiH!re ladJvidaaL Opea aoairfla Inir-
tZ. 'ZJ . rIly generally ty ee meana airocg-wllled. era Plaren hair ia an IndfcaUoa of weak- cata courage and, perhapa etaptdity
lZn?!LZ"'r "a:Se- Tb d.pued "grefm-yt of aur chlid- aeaa of characfer. . At pointed O-.in aiwaa ..i-eaa
I "VT J .ffT! ? " f 'r 0J1r ?ra r mod. Intel- Brow. ba!rwhei wary and broaa. or round oa. lev ef jvleaaura Thick- c.tv.
'TfJ'jJ-TZ lit-enee. though poa.ibly a:Ud im a aUjhtly .abura. tndlcatea an owner who erly-marked ejebrows aaow c!.t.. ,
lZJXJ7?r??Z?, " ommmti'1 fcatara. ts romantic brare. generous and foil ef and aociaon. Coe.e. brows rU irnta-
oTw7f7rLT-T'. aM ! ' eosrareeaa, If and.r mtervtlrg. arch -re.s .b.w .. aiaj.
r wa feoa. ar. told, aad ! br.wa, Black res r net to bo fark-ferwa hmr. that ia aeft aad amtymect.