The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972, November 21, 1909, Page 26, Image 26

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    . Opyrlsht. lUO'J. ly Amilcao-iantntr. . CimI Hi Ualn Jtigtite nrv.
- vs " ;
S."--. le the First, , ' . ;
" ' - Quaintness and ' V.
. - 'tf Originality ,. V- ?'W
v. A A l S Newest Pictures " . v
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J '..-l , ,VV r.' M "I i III! Ml 11 t- UT ' , J A" - -T- (k AJ .1 . .''.V U"m V It. A: I -Uku-. " 1W -.'I . 1(1,.' i , i f . flv" J ., T '.'. 'i ,1. . . , a -i 1
life ' H tSmW", v
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' Afternoon Costume of the
Popular Moire.
The Calling Gown Here
' Shown Is of Heavy
Silk Moire of Large, Rich Pattern. The Gown is a Modified
. . Princess. The Paletot Is Long and Rather Snugly Fitting.
The Plastron Is of Irish Crochet Lace.
homespun stage of apparel have is a draped mantle of one of the faah-
venlnff wraps been as elaborate lonable shades of brown, with an under-
W costly as this season nor so original. : tone of Jtellow-r-mustard. It Is elaborate
" tTpoathIs pageareshojWii someof .ike. J-Juid--becoiningljt - drapeoV - The U
", newest Parisian creations. 'The long; sleeves are finished with wide embroidery
Joose cost of ermine, bordered with four of a conventional design and a deeper
row of white fox fur round the bottom," shade,' and finished with heavy silk tas
and with deep cuffs and long stole of the sels. The front is finished with Liberty
; fox fur. Is cheap, the furrier insists, at revere. The wrap is slashed at the hem
12,000. Wraps are often much handsomer to give a panel, effect In front. The ends
than the gowns they , cover. A simple of these panels are trimmed with the
crepe de chine may be swathed in a heavy silk , embroidery. As a note of
satin cape edged with fur, the cloak .contrast, there Is a collar of long tufted
? costing ten times the price of the frock, zlbelllne.
Evening wraps are made of varying An evening, wrap of black embroidered
materials. The wraps seen at "dinners, net heavily lined and Interlined with silk
at dances, at the opera and at the the- is one of the most elaborate of a most
, atre, run riotously the gamut of the elaborate season. The front of the wrap
most expensive materials velvet, silk, is edged with a . border of skunk fur.
; satin, lace. . . From the shoulders' hang broad flat loops
These rich materials are elaborately of black velvet ribbon.'
draped, in shawl and mantle effects. All Those fortunate persons who can afford
, of them are trimmed with fur. The ' several evening wraps, to be truly fash
despised skunk has come Into more than lonable should have -
1U own, for it decorates the richest gar one " to match each
ments of the loveliest and most fashion- gown. For her white
. able of women. lace robe there, Is the
In colors, the all-enveloping evening Jong white satin even-
, cloak also runs the scale. While many ying cloak. One of
black satin Coats are seen, this being -these recently seen , la
In a measure a black season, there, are box at the opera,
- many white wraps also. Bat after black waB cf ivory white
the favorite colors are the new, soft. Batln. It was very
dull shades of red, old rose, and the In- fu ang bung in
termediate coral, of pale blue and of etralght 1 heavy folds
warm, deep yellow. from necK to hem of
Quaintness is the note of the little gown. The folds hid
pelisses, victorious and dolmans of fur. tne ,on iUu for th
They cover the shoulders and rail in
long tabs te the knee In front. In stole
efTects. ' Often there are employed In
tbir making two kinds of fur. For the
body of the garment a short pelt, as
ermine, coney, seal or minx, ts useo. s or eajine and faced with
the border ' trimming of longer fur Is (miine. n loterlin
wd. often the Inevitable skunk. Scarf inj 0f flannel gave it
wrspe of supple tur, lined with s.tin. w.rmth withott Inter
are wound round the figure muck as aa fering with the grace.
Oriental dancer winds her veil, one end fu toAt f the m
t-rtcg carelesaly thrown over one ShHil- Two expensive touches
A Luxurious Coat of Ermine Trimmed With Bandsy
Cuffs and Long Stole of White Fox.
material. There Is little garniture. Th
goWn proper Is a modified princess, with
the lowered waistline, an, Inch or less
above normal, of the moment. Down the
front panel diagonal flat bands of motre
cross In" geometric precision from waist to
hem.- The plastron 'Is of Irish crochet
lace.i Puchesse ' Is employed by . those
, . j ,.i ' ; who prefer the softer laces. The paletot
J nmrneauyVitn rather snug fitting- and - Teaohesal-
most to the hem of the gowm
X.J 'A
'
Km
5
arms, without which
the new cloaks would
-fee swkward and un
wleldy. The cloak
was lined with mes-
'jr.
Embroidered .
' Panels and
. Bands, and the
Sleeves Finished
With Heavy
,l Silk Tassels."
Liberty Revers
: Finish the
- ,' r-'' a. J Tl. ..a
r - . rroiii aim ausiw
Is a Collar
of Long Tufted -
. ' ' ' Zibelline.T , "
For simple frook. and for the more
elaborate ones, the tunic is much used.;-'
Oherult started' the 'fad In Paris with
smart .walKing. suits of rough serge, over
which were worn chiffon polonaises reach-x
. ing to the knee. But the ultra tunic Is
of . neither , chiffon nor of the somewhat
favored palletted net It is of .chantniy .
lace. Chanttlly, long relegated, has be
come. favorite.' . . Once despised, It has
provoked , the -phrase, "ChantlUy patterns
are like the shadows of flowers cast on .
fairy net" vEvery woman, who has an '
.old-fashioned " Chant lily shawl as heir
loom should lift up a song of thanksgiv
ing and convert it Into a tunic.
; One. of the prettiest gowns, that will be .
. seen at the Horse Show Is of Jeaf green '
satin, over, which is skillfully draped the
owner's-' grandmoyier's not-too-much-worn 1
Ohantllly shawl.. One corner; of the
shawl forms a -little, bib above the waist
and the lower corners ire knotted at the - '
back. - A girdle of leaf green velvet fas ''
. .. j . ,. tened with ."a gold -and green enamelled
.V . . v.i. nld clam holds the lace In position slightly
, and. balU., and, her ; flame coi-; showing ,wea upon., wr. w k- f abov.itb- natural waist line. .Over the
.ored palletted aatln, -for all these rose cloth. , m h ,nn)1er shoulders are straps or bands of skunk
functions, a cloak of claret col-4 Calling-, gowns are somewnai ; suuv .
ored broadcloth, draped in shawf than nsual, but stUL. as aistincuve u
fashion, and bordered With mink original..- The violet moire shown on m..
at front and sleeves. .
This Evening Wrap is of Black Embroidered Net, Heavily Lined and Inter
lined With Silk. The Sleeves and Front Are Defined by Bands of
Skunk Fur and Long Loops of Broad Velvet Ribbon '
' - Add Richness to the Cloak. ''
But although the drsrped even
ing wrap la the present decree of
fashlpn. there are handsome gar
ments of good style provided Tor
those to whpm th draped gar-
ments are unbecoming. It la, as
a rule, the person of good netgnt
or slenderness or .both." who is.
adorned by. the draped ' wrap..
The. woman 'who. 'is of .short
An- elaborate gown for anything but
.s iL.t MAMln ai s mm m lnfvmn1tA . fa It Via tit
naae Is repreoentauve . oi ini v. - .
costume.'. The note of rlchsess is in the touch of fur.- , ; - -
TTie Readers' Catechism-B,- v&x jones t
01
A A blue-blooded equine. - C"Trr-, . W ( is the mmn
stature or who Is stout will prove rrfm this wrkt A A hern. ,' . .-
ber.wisdom by avoiding them. ' " S ft? ' w. " L--' -
t For ber there, are fuU wraps . QWM ,eMf 3 A A hero.
tk. -me alaoe. bordered by band, of sur.k would re.ch tteeok h.,1nr dropped that ang w r-,, .r- ; Mtring arT,y of gown, and V- " ""'"J
the eve. nd edge, te nearly the w.Ut line at tbe;back. the reeu th. iiiV, -m oevl. of .tunning women. . ... ..tn, tew e.f
i fniJ thu. rnrTTd Mnr tmnA with mna from a priest s rooe. even the Jet Of em- . ... r A Th dtrM-l e-i.(W ' .
rmlBe. That old tnhu k ... - ,-i ., ' '. . . ;.i ..,w -i v broidery Uimmlnga t fmrt and back v " . . ' u ;wf .liri rrot le
b, be Trki,k betha ,htnd st tho lgea, was lined with trimmed wit erml m was worn. apparently careless fold by a toctag of garments. Eve the full, wide sleeves '"'' . 1 A L w,, .r
At te Horse Sbow . lrrai tbe iaca But It ta pomlble ta buy oIy owe bUck satio, . , , . , are rtmlUr. ' - ' 1, a verltabW fsIryU". f
w-rn in thetr greatest .pler.dor. Tbo In another boa was em a white eveninc wca. of fclar Uftawtt A tourf woman U, dresaeS Uste- EmbroMery Is rwicb tjed on evertr.g , A It prdu a yramom ' ;towi 4tm u, t. n,f
aoded to
rrf-ryrtarrn: rrzrz - - -
frtonaja fair wUl rle from their tablea. garbed young wowiaa who carelessly let Jet trimmings to r tyrant and bonnotilsM fully sad wr.lnly wad oomparatrrety wraps of both 4r!e. tie ds!goa betrg
rap tbeae Fheba-Uke cloaks ebon tall trrm ker eaulsite shoulders a snag- with aay blank. 1. t or color grrwsm. align outtsy. nc t Income Is slender, ta mst hitms rrniventi-wa! and geo
them. asd drew la at li.e a.low o ifcetr .fWit ima nna mi r mm.. t.M r..v. k , nnn.iM rr ber iwelrte. I'suaiir tvi emhrtHdrry Is of
e r te tte epere, or dance or rT-
If the gown Is of core! satin the .Maooe to a ramleasty draww ehewVCiat Ma"k satin. Jet-trimmed overling dinner the same shade. Someihnea " It is co
Ce of tie aaCualfe closVl lkai snay aJoak atouid be of ckb or saUa of tne perUo Uck la a wea betared a: m i gs n. bar wbite iaca goww for 'opvraa trasflsg; W k' Orlewtaletnbrol'Jery A The t'rrmnr twnL.
O W of mrr f rf MiiMiir A A nrrin.
A X'xiriatrn of bornfh. V l '- akotri e1-
, iinnmm wowe r sV- l SV ,f mirtnl r"irfif are(f
f f tws. w os te s -mir
n)k,r kt (( fl . A The tMrf.gv tr ? T he Aur: jr gr