i - ...is- im p. H I n II III Is. -is I ! - . n i.-i. i !. ... - i in-.. ., i, mm .. - , m n - ,,i.i.i,m ., ., , ,. , , , ,, ,, , , ,.,,, , , .
' C ONCZRNJNG .HEALTH and BEAUTY ' jfipi
' mmMm - : y By Mrs jienry symes : .
uW;;
NA ?i - V'-"' v lV-s .; ' IrSlt r9r
AFRENCIEMAN once remarked
that kingdoms havo risen and
fallen with the ehrug of a
woman's shoulders. He exag
gerated, ot course, but there Is un
; doubted beauty In symmetrical, well
rounded shoulders. Many women do
much to beautify this part of th
body, and, alas! many are contin
ually treating their shoulders 'In a
way that detracts from their natural,
pleasing line. The candid tailor, in
fitting your gown, will often en-'
lighten you about your deficiencies. I
am going to bring a few salient er
rors and positions to your mind today.
I hope to teach this lesson negatively;
, and, when scanning the illustrations,
: remember that emblazoned above
each one is large, forbidding
"Don't 1"
A very unattractive shoulder line Is
btalned by an Improper adjustment
oX a corset. By thoughtless lacing, a
ridge of flesh appears at the upper
part of the back. The shoulder blades
re pushed out tfnd up and a 'conse
quent raising of the shoulder results.
This causes a shortening of the neck
and an appearance that is very un
natural. I advise a refitting of the
Injurious corset. Have an experienced
person arrange it for you and use the
hand glass to detect any rise in the
shoulder line. An arm exercise which
is rotary will flatten the back and
lower the shoulders.
I have often seen young girls, while -listening,
lean backward upon a table
or railing and practically support the
weight of the body by the hands.
This straightens the arms and raises
the shoulders. If persisted In the
houlders-wllt be raised above their -normal
height. If this habit be form-
ADVICE ON SOCIAL CUSTOMS.
WHAT TO SAT
TUB wisest and best of us can
not always know what to say,
although such knowledge Is
usually possessed by even the
most vapid of the socially experienced.
But no one need feel discouraged, for
happily most of the polite expressions
nay be memorised and mumbled so
that no one can really tell If they
are perfectly appropriate or not. Mum
bling Is a bad habit, that proves a
Blessing oa occasion,,
Often and often some inexperienced
tnatdea writes to ask what to - say
when one of the masculine persuasion
Is presented to her. when he comes to
call or when he says goed-bye.
Young hostesses, tee, write to ask for
the proper forms of greeting and fer.
proper expressions of. regret e aoe
et the guest's departure. Any of these
forms may be marmared la a scarcely
audible tone of voice; it to better not
to speak them toe loudly, bat It Is
comfortable to knew that, should they
be rerd. ther are correct and rente.
The flrrt difficulty arisee at the time
f Introduction, -pleased te sceet
l stouten , - ' - I t-'- l utt -1 rl-r?
ranrrOTW- V : I-' :.',! I: ! . - ..Sx LJ
I I ifiirliiii ji i ii i r- i in f rVnn -llif rniiiiiin imnniai r;-, hi, nr " -na
ed and let me warn you that these
habits of posture gain a foothold In
our everyday life very quickly an
effect that is almost a deformity will
be seen. Whenever a, wish to assume
this easy and careless position seises
you, master It and either ait down In
a chair or stand straight with the
weight on the balls of the feet It
will not require many days of abne
gation to outgrow entirely an inclina- '
tion for this pose.
When interested In a Rood book the
opportunities to forget one's position are
legion. The favorite attitude Is In front
of a table, with 'the forearms resting
on it. This means that the weight of
the body is not supported by the back
bone, which should bear It, but by the
elbows and forearms. The spinal column- .
Is curved fronv disuse, the back becomes
rounded and the shoulders raised. The
corrective in this case is a knowledge
of a proper sitting position while read
you" sounds stereotyped and ; Inade
quate, yet many people say It. Jt is
, better to think of some less ordinary
form and use It always. A man some
times murmurs, "This Is a great pleas
ure to me," and a woman may answer,
"I am glad to see you," or "X have
heard so many people speak of you."
or "mention you."
It is through these little polite say
ings that the conventions are com
plied with and the Ice Is broken for
tha furtherance ot pleasant conversa
tion and possible friendship.' Only the
novice In the ways of the world will
say merely, "How do you dor It la
ao very senseless and automatic It is
the too evident attempt to say some-'
thing, no matter what, and Instead of
helping acquaintance It plies the Ice
thicker and higher.
One may sometimes put Individual
ity or compliment Into the moot com
monplace remark by a slight accent
properly placed. This may bd made to
convey Interest, even flattery. - Such
matters of everyday Intercourse
should be thought of and studied until
proficiency la attained.
When caller arrives the boat ess,
be she maid or matron, may mmr,
am very glad to s-e you." end If she
manages to put Just the faintost so-
cent upon the word very, ebe wtu
ruake her greeting the more aurccss
fuL "Tha politer the baiter," should
be the motto of every one, although
the jarlae maidea will never gush ever
any one, man or woman.
Whesi a man take Ma leave, or when
the feenlarne eeler rise to gay good
bv, the polite Boetree will narmur.
"Must, ym go? 1 an sorry. Do coma .
again. It has been very nice te see
THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, FORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, SEPTEMBER '
ing. Keep both feet on the floor, the
back straight and the hips well back.
Th book should be accommodated to
the eyes, not vice versa. You will find
that it will become just aa easy for .
you to read in this way as In a harm
ful position.
While talking at a . table many girls
clasp both hands above the supporting
elbows. It seems to be understood that
this . position is the concomitant of a
picture hat in a hotel. It may be
piquant, but It plays havoc with the nat
ural line of the shoulders. It Js ft posi
tion that lacks dignity, I think. If a
woman could see . her profile with Its . '
curved back. Its shortened neck and Its.
Ifi-fltting dress, she would quickly form
a habit of proper carriage of the body
while at a table The lounging la public
places" has never been considered good
form, and it is certainly not good look
ing. - . . .. .
The shoulders are raised to ft very un
you." All of that la not one whit too
much, and if the caller be a woman
she may make it even more hospitably
emphatio by the intersperston of a little
tiny bit of the forbidden gush.
The good hostess never overpersuades
a reluctant guest to remain. The Invi
tation ahould be extended, of course,
but it should never he made so insistent
that the guest Is forced to give excuses.
The caller also has a part to play, and
he or she must be equally polite and
make the usual remarks for the occa
sion. -I am very fortunate to. have
found you at borne" Ik always a polite
phrase to use aa a sort of forerunner
to the Inevitable "good-bye"; and If It
be a woman aha must always ' add,
"And t am hoping that you will soon
' eon to see roe."
At aa entertainment both hostess and
guest must use a sKghtly different set
Of phrases, for the guest has beea asked
to coma and has corns with the expect-
tion of finding the boetee receiving.
When hosteae and guest meet aad shake
bands the usual "How do yea dor
may be dispensed with, and the bootses
tney ear, "It was good of you te
come," or "1 am fortunate te . have
bn able te get you": erhie the
?t may reply. "I ae onlv te gisvo.
our entertain merit are avlwaya per
lel-"
W be It Is time to go the gusst opens -the
est bar re of evUitle. esd asuatly
with an expression of arprec'eUoa. fre
or be may say. "I hed nr k a lovely
time." or "I ere eorry I snuet IT' te
wnwh be r'-t"s ahoeld reply. It has
giwen sno pisrt- te rave r4 yea,
r -1 asa ac g ad you eooid eome."
F, yea ee, life l like a brv",g f-m:
each occasion has a set phrase for beta
STif&Peat o improper.
attractive height by folding the arms.
Sometimes this position is the result of
a alight chilliness, but more often it
can be traced H carelessnesst The first
cause has an .obvious core; the last can
be corrected by folding the hands In the,
lap and determining to keep, down the
shoulders. - ,- ' '
One thing should be Impressed upon
the mind of Vthe woman who Is seeking
health and beauty ,t Nature knows much
mere about the proper adjustment of
different parts of the body than we give
her credit for. Any position repeatedly
taken will In time alter the symmetrical
lines which are intended for us. While
' there Is time, restrain any wishes to ex
aggerate the shoulder line. Do not
shorten the graceful curve of your neck.
Correct any abnormal appearance by
exercising the will. Determine to take
proper sitting and standing positions,
jmd aa unblased Inspection of your mir
ror wll) give pleasing results.
partners and opponents, and all that
one need do Is to learn each phrase.
Then you will never be at a loss, and
in time variations of the same politeness
will occur to you.
PERPLEXITIES
SOLVED
A Fishing Party
D'
EAR Mrs. Adams.
is a cnaperoa necessary wnen rwe
girls et 1 sra Invited on a fishing
trty by two of their boy friends
KPITHA.
If the excursion is not tu be held
very far from home aud Is to take
piece in the daytime, I do not think a
chaperon is really necessary.
The Arm Question
Deer Mrs. Adams.
Win yon kindly tell ens wbetber M Is
proper t a girl wbe wlU be years old
1 la tMreonber to let a boy about the ssuae
age take sr ana waea rateming trees a
iberr or party T
fcbeuM I let bim eoena e eee aaa asm '
- tin a tkree tte a wek?
Wbtt Usm uxrald ba leer our bnose
St right T I1MORANT.
No; a boy should never take hold
of a girl's srm.
Three times a week la oftea enough
for him te cell.
He eboaid leave the bouse' at' 1
o'clock. ,
What To DlTinth Gifts
Deer rre. seam.
If e girl Is aagmr te snsrrled. aboaM ,
fce 1 beck rrtking that other r
giTi h-v, mm if titer are per
rzl f' mior taetaace. a raej handeooie .
Cfcsftfg
Is tt ww fne a gttl gtve eaeee
WMwue rrfie si T A XX 101 S.
ke; tt te not absolately asctesaxy te
A tfirl mav certalnlv arlve her fiance
handsome gifts If she chooses to do
so.
Half a Dozen Queries
Dear Mrs. Adams.
1. Do- you think a sin of 13 Is too young
to go with a boy that is 17?
2- I am E feet ihb inuhea tall. How long
should I wear tny druse?
t. Do you sea any harm of girl, and
boys walking home from chool together!
4. If a boy sends you a postcard and
you do not care to answer It. what should
you dot
i. When a boy asks a girl to accompany
ner Home and she does not care to na
him, what should she say?
R- If a boy and girl have been corre
sponding for quite a while and he asks the
glii for her picture, should she give It to
him? A CONSTANT READER.
1. A girl of 13 is too young to go out
with boys of any age.
2. Wear your dresses about two Inches
above the shoe tops.
3. There Is no reason why boys and
firls should not walk home from school
ogether.
. Simply Ignore the fact that you re
ceived a card.
6. You might say some one expects to
see you home, as they probably do if
you are but 13.
6. It would be unwise to do so.
The "At Home" Days
Dear Sirs. Adams.
Will you kindly enlighten me about the
following In your social customs column?
If a wedding 'announcement reads thus:
"At home first and second Tuesdays In Oc
tober," Isn't Jt a reception? How many
cards should a married woman leave? It
out of the city and unable to be present,
should one send cards and how many and
how should tney be sent that Is. the
number for a married woman? Hhoukl one
consider Tuesday the at home day in the
future, and after having returned to the
city call upon a Tuesday? GLADYS.
Yes; the two days are to be consid
ered reception days, but Tuesdays need
not be considered the bride's at home
days for the future. A married woman
should leave one card of her own and
two of the husband's. Send the same
number in card envelopes if you. are
unable to be present at the reception.
A Linen Shower
Dear Mrs. Adams.
Wilt you kindly, through your paper,
suggest soma ways of entertaining for a
linen shower? ISABETLLB.
You-Invite the guests to an afternoon,
tea, and the time is usually taken up
jn viewing uie ainerent pieces of anen
which the bride-to-be has received.
Holding His Hat
Dear Mrs. Adams.
Kindly tell ma Is It tha proper thing
for a lady to hold a young man's bat when
out in company?
A CONSTANT HEADER.
No; it is not considered good form.
Introducing a Young Man
Dear Mrs. Adams.
When a young man from a distant town
and a stranger to all tha other members
of tha family Is to visit a young lady, by
whom should ha be met?
At what time and In an easy manner
should be Introduced to the mother and
brother of the young lady T A. B. C.
If the young lady is the only mem
ber of the family whu knows the
visitor, it would be all right for her
to meet him at the door. Take him
into me drawing room, and if your
mother and brother are not already
there you may call them into the room
. and say you would like them to
meet Mr. So-and-so. This introduc
tion should take place as soon as the
man has come into the room.. After
meeting him your family need only
talk to him a few minutes and then
leave,
Rude Conduct
Dear Mrs. Adsjca
what should a boy do when at a high
school raorpttoe a girl In the midst of a
eBveraaMioa sboeld sag bias ta bring an
other boy to taia to br. whea she baa
seea hint already and has bad ao reason
ta be crass wlin the bey ta wboan aba la
air . lngT
Wk o girl goes to college and gin a
boy persnlseioe to wrHa be kr. shualda't
sbe writs te hint first T
If. whea getne borne at night wnn a
rirl. sb4 tbe walk Is sallgbiM end un
Mved. aeould aba lake It amies If the
bsr beta hr arm, ts keee bT from step
ping la rough place, tastaed of N-r boding
ku n I Cl'BJOl'a
It was eery Impolite for the gtrl te
make such a request ' wbea she was
already engaged in conversation wltti
some one ele- However, the bey
conld hardly do anything ia that case
but obey her demand.
No; the girl ahouid never write first.
Tbe boy took bold of the girl s arm
witkreftly aa lntenlxwt te help, and the
, girl e4 not be angry ever each a
small ateiter. . i
19, 1903
Aids to Correspondents
. WINO to the great amount of
mail received and the limited
space given this department.
It is absolutely Impossible to
answer letters In the Sunday Issue
following their receipt The letters
must be answered In turn, and this
oftttmes requires three or four weeks.
All correspondents who desire an Im
mediate answer must Inclose a self-addressed
stamped envelope for a reply.
This rule must also be complied with
In regard to personal letters.
A Variety of Queries
Dear Mrs. Symes.
My hands are always red. Can you tell
me the cause of this, and in there any
thing I can do to prevtnt the redness?
I sunburn very easily, and have been told
that buttermilk will prevent this. If It
does, should the fresh or sour be used, and
bow often?
Lately my face has become covered with
blackheads and bumps. As I bava never
been bothered with these before. I am very
anxious to have them removtd. Would you
adviae me to use a good cold cream on my
face?
My bust Is very large, and I want to
know If it will be harmful to me if I wear
a band of cloth plnred tlehtlv across my
bust? A COLLEGE GIRL.
Your red hands may be due to Im
proper circulation of the blood, or it
may be you do not dry them carefully
every time they are bathed. I think
you will find the cosmetic glove paste
Just what is needed to Improve the con
dition of your hands, and I am giving
the recipe and directions for making and
using the same:
Cosmetic Glove Paste.
Ground barley, the white of an egg. a
teaxwjoniul of glycerine and one ounce of
ho iif y.
Mix the last three ingredients, and add
enough barley to form a paste.
Use soft. large, leather gloves, three or
four sizes too large. Rip them open and
spread the inside with the preparation;
then sw the r- up.
Fresh buttermilk is very good for pre
venting the skin from becoming sun
burned. Bathe the face and hands In it
night and morning.
After bathing your face in warm
water, apply a good cold cream. Allow
it to remain on the face for five min
utes; then wipe it off with a soft cloth.
After this, dash cold water on the face
so that the pores of the skin will not
be left open to gather more dirt. Along
with this treatment you may use the
lotion made according to the following
recipe:
Boracln add 1 drams
Alcohol 2 ounces
Rosewater 4 ounces
Use with friction twice a day on the skUa
affected.
Hather than have you wear a tight
band across the bust, I advise you to
wear1 one of the tight-fitting corset cov
ers or brassieres. I am sure you will
find this Just as satisfactory as the
band.
Pimples and Blackheads
uear airs, symes.
1 hava blackheads and olmoles all over
Ish matter comes out. Would you plMH
give me a good blood purifier and tell me
how to wash my face In order to neip. ana
also give me a good diet? Z. Z. Z.
I think if you will take a dose of cas
tor oll -or salts about once a month your
blood would soon be pure.
Follow the advice 1 give ' CIleP
Girl" concerning her face and black
heads. , .
Following Is the diet list, which you
should live up to until your skin Is
smooth and clear:
MAY TAKE
Soups Fresh fish soups, vegetable broths
Fish-Raw oysters, fresh fish, boiled.
Meats Fat bacon, boiled or broiled chick
en, game (all sparingly). . .
Farinaceous Cracked wheat oatmeal.
Wee. sago, hominy, whole wheat breed or
biscuits, rye bread, rrsham bread or rolls,
crackers, dry toast, milk toast, macaroni. ,
Vegetables Mashed potato, green peas,
strlug beans, spinach, cabbage, cucumbers,
crestes. lettuce, celery.
leerts Plain milk pudding. Junket, rice
and milk sago and milk, stawed fruits (all
without sugar). . ... . .
Drinks Weak tea (no sugar), milk, but
termilk, toast water, sure water (cold or
Thoroughly masticate all foods. Eat
slowly.
MUST NOT TAKE!
Veal, pork, goose, duck, turkey, salted.
dried potted or preserved fish or meat (ex
cept fat bacon), eels, mackerel, crabs, sal
mon, lobster, eggs, rich soups, gravies, pat
ties, tomatoes, sweat Potatoes, aaparagua,
mu-bruonia. rhubarb, lemons, pickles, vine
gar, fried or mads dishes, rich puddings.
selves, pies, pastry, sweets, cbeeea,
dried fruits, tobacco, coffee, cider,
liguora sweat Wines, champagne.
For the Hair
Dear Mrs. Symes.
Will yott please tell a
kind of a hair-eurllng
If there is any
tonic that would
ska ray hair look like natural fussy balrf
nd Is salt rood for tbe bairr Will It
ake it grow? I bava used didereet kusda
A
,,r H&lr tonics, bet to so avail.
Would tbe eoeroetlo glove pate
w hi tea
and softea tbe face aud necar
Also. s the sultana aaske-up good to use
T tbe finger sails to tint them?
Is cocoa butter good fore lasaage oreaav
ar.d will it grow hairs?
Wbat eaa I ee ta snake r ml i rook
NAPTHfcATlS.
1 know of no curling lot Ion which will
give to balr a aaluxai fussy appearance.
You will have U use cur lei a to gaia
this effect.
A little salt is good for the bead, hut
should not be allowed to remain on tbe
scalp too long. You will find petrol euro
, a, very good hair tonic If a few drops
are rubbed en the ecaip every night.
Do not use the "cos rue 'to glove parte
en your erk end face. L ea tbe orange
Sower skis food instead, aad snop
- , -J
night and morning with peroxide. I ftqfe
giving you the recipe for this: j
Orange-Flower Cream.
A Skin Food.
OH of sweet almonds
Whits wax , ,
Spermaceti
.. 4 eunees)
drams
. I drams
oraj(
S drum .
Glycerine 1 ounces
u range-flower water I ounces
OH of neroll ....IS drops ,
OH of blgarade (orange skin) IS drops '
Oil of petit grain IS drops 1
Melt the first three Ingredients, add, the
Slyceiine to the orange-flower water and
issolva the borax In the mixture; thee
pour it slowly Into the blended fata, stir
ring continuously.
instead of using the sultana make-ua
on your nails, use the rose cosmetic:
Rose Cosmetic for the Nailtu
Spermaceti drams
hite wax s drams
OH of almonds (sweet).........;.. ounces
Alkanet root... I ounces
Oil of rose 1 dram
Malt the first four Ingredients, strain, beat
until nearly cold, then add the oil of rose.
Four Into wide-mouthed porcelain bottles ot
Jars. , i
Cocoa butter is ft very good massage
cream and will not grow hairs.
You can do nothing to make the eyes
darker. Anything you would use would
prove Injurious.
Blackheads-
Dear Mrs. Rymes.
Will you kindly publish as soon as pos
sible a good home remedy for removing
and keening away blackheads! I am trou
bled a great deal with them around the
nosa. cheeks and chin. I am a blonde and
my skin was always a whitish color,-but
lately the blackheads are settling quite
thick. I have tried pinching them out with
a cloth over the Angernalls. but this ssenis
to increase their number.
My hair used to ba a beautiful light
golden color, but it seems to ba getting
darker. The last time I washed my hair
I rinsed It In peroxide water. It made It
lighter, but kind of streaked. Tell ma
bleachlngdit,t0 kee my hair unt without
Please tell ma something to make nv -eyebrows
and eyelashes dark?
, VERY ANXIOUS.
I think you will be helped verj
mu? by . green soap treatment.
Wh tori f .(.. . w
' as UCiO ftlVCUi
i Green Soap Treatment foe
Blackheads.
SSfm r5 of,. ?ea ?... ounces '
Distilled witch hazel I ounces
Let this mixture stay on only a few ma
ments: then wash off with hot water. !
If Jh reen soap irritates the akin. s It
sometimes will, aaa Jt every ether day. An- ,
Ply a cold cream. f
aS,? be purchased at any
drug store. It Is not a regular "cak. I
custard.""" " " bout ttu .Stencye? 1
Open each seed acne with the point of
fine cambric needle. The haxdwed mass
must be brased or picked out The emntv 1
allSe,ftl",il hou,d ,hnb bith.dwn ;
"it,e to"t vinegar and water, or with m
I.r.3Lweak olutiun ot carbolic acid and
S'SV- ,Sler'" the needle before using it
by dipping Into boiling water, as thetisa
of sjjv instrument, unless the ,,"n as wsl"
as tha needle -s thoroughly cleansed is 1
always dangerous. .suea. i
I da not (htni. .k.t . ' 1
Successfully bleach her hftir with ner-
7 " ; ,; L, " n amateur car
and t rri i" Uail 7 a.
eircaKea appearance, I think a.
pinch of washing soda added to -the?
wfnewf V6ry timl y,our is washSl
will keep your hair sufficiently Ugh?
- pencU yur eyebrows ta
make, them darker and use the)
Chinese stain on your eyelashes:
Chinese Eyelash Stain. J
Oum srab'3 I arrll .
Indian Ir.k dram
Rosewater , 4 ounces
Powder tha ink and gum and triturate
small auantitles ot the powder with the
rosewater unt.l you g"t a uniform hlscic
liquid In a powder, and then add the re
mainder of tha rosewater.
Be very careful that no atom of the
stain touches the eyes, for It would
cause trouble.
essjuesaaesB.
Walnut Stain J
Dear Mrs. Symes.
Some time ago I saw a recipe for mak
ing walnut hair dye from tbe skins of
back walnuts. Will you kindly puhilsh U
again? jMrs.) C. C O.
fer-er 1 recipe Jo which you re
Walnut Stain for Hair. ;
Four ounces of walnut skins, beaten to a
pulp, te which Is sddsd pure axouaoi. it
ounces.
let stand eight days aad strain. Then
apply as any other eye.
Cloth Top Shoes
i
Dear Mrs gymes.
Would vou kindly tell me what Is goad
e bash tea tbe cloth tope of aheee?
Also tell ma If my figure la ta sropor
tkn. I am I fee 1 l or hi uil and we.gh IU
.pounds. Waist measur. at lBcims; bust,
St Inches; neck. 12 iaefces; hip sa in. na.
A REAL) H.
I presume yoa would brighten cloth,
top shoes tbe same aa yeu would er.y
otaer cloth by brusnlng tt wiia au
- monta water or a tailor's eieacsi.'.g
fluid.
I shonU say your figure ta la very
good proportion,
' Doesn't Cart for Red Cheeks
Dear Mr, evrnea.
t am a girl u years M s4 fry
tMck as4 exioe are r " -r m fc-.t n '
fee red. 1 tfe" re w- - s
for a rende fe ti r. tmmm ef
se I prefer te Serfe T
I do not thuia you e 49 st-j" -to
make your skin ark. 1 i
Of red la yoer far, a d- r- s a .
of r-l b H. and y ."t e
aajibirg te try te get nl ef i'-