THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY 'mORNINO, MARCH 21 1009
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England's Wail Over
Growing Habits of
Feminine Extravagance
L
ONDON, Great Britain generally, and
Europe to a large extent, having re
- viewed the Incr'minatinr evidence
against the American woman; are uniting
upon a formidable indictment against her.
"I With one voice, and in accents of horror
and dismay, ' the people of . the Old W orld
bring-against her the serious accusation:
" 'Madame, you are corruptingTtS all."
' Extravagance; an extravagance that has
penetrated to the sanest and mo t reliable of
the treasured middle classes from the' terrible
examples of wanton latishness" is the kind
of corruption laid at the door of, American
women. j , . ' w
"By the heedless display and waste of
will bu to ltegdiu street, or Gvlicnua, but sliu will ba
gowned m tna latest laanion.
- Formerly, the iiildaie-ciuba g-irl or wife did not
dream ot provoKln
iK cumpawons wltli the aristucracy.
eltUer In clothes or conduct; now, fed on the jjoIhoiious
apple of knowleUKO uiai you need only iook liKe money
lu order to be lady, they insist on hiring motor cars to
Kd choppinK for a pacKage of complexion pills.
It Is very, very ad
Gettlnar down to tlgureu, one of the more enterprise
, . . v l J inS journals Di Juunuon unueriuoK an investigation 01
WCir Sliver atUTiUUW ueatlll, urt mc.vne precisely now inuin icmiuine cxiramgunce ua en-
. ,1 r . t. J .J t tl.'... hanoed the cost of living to the virtuous middle classes.
AS the nCWty exalted Wives Of famous mem- Tna nliddle classes were expected never to need so
were the backbone of the British - nation and knew
their place. Yet this is what H cost a sample stock
broker and his wife for a "modest evening's pleasure":
Their cab from Kensington to a restaurant cost 2
shillings 6 pence; tips to the cloakroom servants, 1 hll
ling 6 pence: dinner, 'With a bottle of champagne, one
liqueur and the waiter's tip, 1 Us. 6d.; cab to thp the-
hers of the uobilitv. und on the other by their
reckless profusion as plain 'Americans visiting
the Old World, they have set such a standard
of reckless spending that neither the ordina-
..A.. J: ..:,.; I.;- :;., . ' liqueur and the waiters tip, 1 Us. 6d.; cab to thp the-
- ruy rich gentleman can maintain his family on is. d.i cloakroom tips, is.; two theater seats, n
t trill nn-iy ffrmfif suitahl t fir 'hit hnultnn ' cab to restaurant. Is. d.; light supper, with a
a SLttie nQJ) aecmca lUliauie fur WS VUSinon mMl bottle Of hoek. lis.; cab home. Ss. Total. 4 6d.
nor the prosperous merchant ana professional
man indulge in luxuries which once seemed
"inexpensive pleasures" So runs the foreign
indictment. ' j
BWTISTI papers and mairaslnes appear to be
shocked at the discovery Of her culpability
British Journalism is always more shocked at .
4,. anything which Implicates somebody else. ,
Before the fascinating American serpent ,c'w'e.f
tnto the British Eden th British Eve was as tnn?3e;
f stylish and very expensive clothes ss the Iad;
the original fig leaf: now. tho prodigal British matron
Thftm vAs 120 or mo ntient for n n fvfinlnir'i nlinaittik
which, before the American social Invasion, would have
been enjoyed In Its essentials for .95 at most. v .
DISSATISFACTION EVERYWHERE
Now, at four times the cost, it left the stock broker
and hlB wife with the sensation that, while they had
complied with the demands of "their position" by being
seen in the best restaurant and the best stalls at the
theater, they were etui only half as luxurious ip their
to be. ,
Afternoon teas, social functions, maintenance of
motor cars, fashionable couturleres. variety ef furs
all the costly frills and fads incident to social promt-
nence without in the least attaining to the reality
have led th British press and public to look askance,
for the first time since the rejoicing over the millions
in Imported ' American' dowries commenced, .at the
, American woman and her notorious luxury.
The Indictment Is far from being an echo of last
year's diatribes against the extravagance of her. com
patriots, voiced by Hetty Green, who so recently In
dulged her own daughter in the luxury of a husband
. old enough to bo the bride's father. It Is the outcome
of 'the new conditions of living inspired by the
American woman abroad, and now suddenly realized .
by the people at large In all their ruinous costliness. .
The uplifted hands of shocked ecorromv have.
therefore, cast rather disparaging shadows upoa the
astounding evidences of wealth displayed by the. latest
American heiress who. in the ascendlngr st ale of trans
atlantic ostentation, has succeeded in dazzling the na
tives. She is the Countess Oranard, until the middle
of last January Miss Beatrice Mills, daughter of Mrs.
Ogrden Mills, of New York, and granddaughter of I.
O. Mills.
All London has. "been In amazement over her Im
posing Jewels, which include the diamond collar given
as a wedding present by her aunt. Mrs. Whltelaw
Held; the mafrniflcent diamond and pearl brooch from
Colonel and Mrs, John Jacob Astor; the superb long
chain of pearls and pearl clusters from Mrs. Frederick
W. Vanderbllt, and the marvelous all-around tiara of,
pearls and diamonds, tipped with pear-shaped pearls
and diamonds, from her mother. But all London has
petzed upon the4 occasion as one for deploring" the ad
ditional example of expensive living which the Coun--tess
Granard provides. .
Even the court circle, late in February, was Im
pelled to find too much ostentation In the array of
diamonds that hid pretty nearly all the lovely whtte
neck when the new countess of Oranard appeared In
her marriage robe In the Jewels whicii. covering her
corsage, made It glitter with th .tect of a gorgeous
.ninn anrt t We' other ornaments that left her gown
only a well-flifted setting for the prince's ransom sha s-
wore In Jewelry.
She 'wore both her tiara and the diamond collar,
while a band of sunerb nton. Ave and a. half Inches
wide, the gift of Mrs. Matiirln Livingstone, stretched
across her corsage. Her dress wb!j the "most marnlfl-
icin ruua over won in me .urmaii court, its sleeves
fairly Xllled with algulllsttss of diamonds , . -Tbs
countess arrived wltli her Jewel-clad shout
ders shielded by a rap made of sixty royal Russian
n via .9 it ii o niciusu. ul Twium MinrM
with cuplds sotd doves mounted on Sticks of gold, was'
..one owned by the Empress Josephine. Although tha
king and queen received her specially and had her ta
supper with them privately, the loyal indorsement
could not repress the .growing resentment against her
unexampled grandeur. . --',;
It would be hard to find anywhere in Great Britain
an American woman who has equaled the pace in ex
penditure set by fond Anna Gould during the period '
of her more" than loyal devotion to that miniature
Sarda napalm, Bonl d Caslellane. Her record-brak.
ing gorgeousness in France has been recalled by some
of the later critics as a case in point, but scarcely
with such convincing proof of her individual respon-
iDimy as wnon tney cite tne truly heroic immolation
of her fortune by the late Lady Curson upon the altar
of ambition for the vice regency of India. ,
airs. yuracuey Martin has gone the limit of overseas
expenditure as few American women have ever done
and she has got more In return than most of them,
with her position no more titan the role of American
mother-in-law at that.
.But when her daughter became the countess of
Craven the mother descried a career over there for
herself, and she invested in the vast estate of Balma
caan, in Sootland, where she plays the part of Lady
Bountiful and maintains the traditions of the lavish
entertainment with which, years ago, she first blew
open the doors-of American society. Her name in
Great Britain Is a thing to conjure with as significant
ot Aladdin riches and fabulous gorgeousness.
RICHEST ARE AGHAST
The countess of Craven herself has not been far
behind her mother in impressing Great Britain with
the idea that American wealth has been made to be
spent tn all that goes to make luxurious living. Her
entertainments there, since her tiiarriage,- have left -the
richest of the nobility aghast at their costliness,
a Tl 4 haB Bfirfail t n tnalr all K, nlha wstvnAi. n 1 thM
.JlMtefl.JBllejajilejBnlesg.-1 hei fin! ,tmt otuthsir
taniiiy incomes ana dangerously beyond, tney can
uuvr tney jlhuvt suiueiuing, at least, eooui xaso
ionable living. . - .. .:i-.-v--'i-.v---
The duchess of Marlborough, she who was Con
suelo Vanderbllt, is another American whoSe Jewels
and lavish living, once the ecstatic admiration of all
Kngllsh society, are now deprecated rather than
lauded for their splendor.
' Her whim has been pearls, voted startling in size
and beauty, many of them said to have once belonged
to Marie Antoinette. Last year, in an exceptionally
fulsome adulation addressed to her in a London
paper, her panegyrist remarked:
And you show your sense in the matter ot these price
less ornamnt, for you do not keep them out of night la a
bank or In.nn easily burgled safe, end. like so many
women, do not tlust them to the tender mercies of paid
dependents. No; you adopt the better way, and wear the
pearls by day and night evn under your plain tailor
made gowns or simple cottons and muslins.
Most charming innovation, this of the duchess of
Marlborough, untu Just now, when the sting of ex
pensive Jewel buying and wearing on the part of less
wealthy Englishwomen has converted the American
duchess'' fondness for her pearls Into -a corrupting
example. , -
The duchess of Rdxbursrhe. ' who was ' Miss May
Goelet, took to her husband a fortune estimated as .
between 920,000,000 and 925,000,000. It was the marvel
of England when the duke of Roxburghe got hold ot
it; but a greater marvel followed when the generous
young American bride gave enough ef her millions to ,
completely rehabilitate his residence and estates.
Perhaps of all the expenditures that have been
made abroad ' by the American woman, this of May.
rioolet hue been leant criticised, and that rhlftflv he-
cause it represents permanent improvement and In
vestments, wnere tne money win do English people .
the most solid good,, while restoring to ancient dig- '
nities a title the mass of the population Is willing to
hold In reverence
New Zealand Bridge
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An Elephant as a
Plowhorse
World's Highest btatue
The Death of an
Iceberg
Old Church in Norway
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IT 19 tif-t .! that if,e in n bits nt of a tiilniy
fopuiate-d dietrlrt ma hare a brMce located st
the nwt -nrnin pniit for them. At times
. Inrn it iirrl 'S the r.eel tn ejovet manner.
i;ir (o - )" i nd I n th l!luirt1
1- il.e ,! r. lit il trfile l-rit.'g- that the people pf
t il iuii:ry 'utf" are f.-. J as quite com-."
i f rfjf :; la a tct rnpe trtche,l
1e tr. anl n. horwl nrtn'.y oa h bank,
t ; ' 1' la r'r t run: frm the la pi1m1
t-. t !-, tit"- t! he jrrtm:X'f atafe.
l !i a ...- i!" i rrxa ft." M'moj he
"' ' t a "..- lVft h rai 1 r;e
' ,t,r.,4 i rrr t V rl -. h-Vrt.'T lrtw
I - f ' T rt "nn" H'ry th-n K drawn ba k
' - " Bi-r boe ry tse e cf the sill repe fast-
1 thee.
V1PITORS to the southern countries cf AIa have
sen frequently elephants employed In many
useful capacities. They are willing beasts of
burden when properly treated, and their enormous
strength enables them to do a vast amount ef rough
work. '
Kecentl)-, aelenlthed residents of the rountry about
IIotTfy" England, hin Wo amazed to see en elephant
Informing the duties ef a plowhorse. The proprietor
ef a circus winters his animals en his farrm at Horley,
and makes his elephants help pay for tbelr keep by
pulling plows.
It Is aa!d to b worth goirg mile te see one of
the big. patient brut-ee lumbering grsrely up and
dewn a Be Id. drsjflrg a plow with as little apparect
Cert as a man wo aid trail golf stick behind him.
Da
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is -
s
ON THE dividing line between Chile and the
Argentine Republic, in the very heart ef the
Andes, steads, la impressive solitude, the high
est statue in the world-tfcat Is, the statue erected s,l
Ice most lofty kilitode. .
It U a rolosesl . figure of Christ, and was plad
there eus a perpetual token of peace and good will be
tween the two nations.
The statue is ef bronze, and wae cast ia the arsenal
at Huenoe A res frens csnimn.
The erranlie base on whh the elatne tdamlf Is.
twenty leet high, axd the Kurt of Chrit l tweety
siz fet bih. Th monurrent la th reet.W f a tneve
Tnnt started and carried to a-c-es ry Madame de
rta. eiee f the meet Influential ar.d cultured wemea
cT South America. -
'. - t .
v Y THEN an iceberg breaks away from Its fellows
VV in th nortn'rn eaa nd drifts southward to
" warmer waters it "meets, sooner or later, the
fate of dissolution. f
Jiany a winter passenger en transatlantic vessels
has seen towering Icebergs floating near the great
ecean "pathway, hut' comparatively. few voyagers have
witnessed the death hours, so to speak, of - one ef
these majestic, forbidding mountains built up by tbe
bands of the frost king of the Arctic.
' It is curious what fantastle shapes the remnants
of Icebergs will resolve themselves Into before giving
up the frigid ghost.
' , Warmer - waves than they hare known before
laving- tbelr sides, leaping upward and caressing
them under the propulsion ef strong, warm, southern
winds and aided In destructive purposes by the grew
Ing sultriness ef the sun. eat great Assures In their
-sides, mit away- tke uctder and upper ear faxes, and -'
In time reduce the towering pinnacles of Ice and snow
te .something little snore then a child's plaything.
Durrng the latter part ef the melting process the
bergs are eaten away te faetaslto shap. sm that
some ef them elmnst renb!e a human akeleton.
The ptrture shows the laat days of "I'-e fnirbtr ,
fcerg. whlcn. when t brfce away fress the northern
Ice Held eed staj-ted r uth. vir big and . reeietieee"
enough la Its snaaelve power te ht eent to the bet
tom tne steuteet eblpa that ely tbe eta ked they col
lided with It wltk any degree ef eretA. ,
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QOMB of the moat curious specimens ot church
architecture In the world mar- be found In Nor- - X '
l i. ... ., ... ,. . .,.!. r. x
"Si s7VIMHU, S.W I f;s.BiuiyiV SS n ai s
looking edifice that was erected ia me. or earner.,
Antiquarians have never been able to determine the
tiart oat,. - -- - t - -
The Borgnnd church is built ot legs, covered
thickly with tar outside and InelJe. This coating
perhaps accounts for the preservation of the building.
When the doors are closed the Interior is almost
entirely tn darkness, as light comes then enty throngs -small
openings in the roof. , .
In this church eennej Interesting relic. Includ
ing a weodeej rnnl ri bnt nn lov that hae hung from a
yiiisr fr -iturlea. and e very oM hapHsmal font cut
eat ef a tint I, block of ston. Tbe top ef the altar
is a ink of slate, mdely trimmed: the altar-piece Is
a teprtsf station ef the eruciSs, -ndely trimmed.