' Copyright. 1900, by American-Examine. , Great Britain Right. Beserved,
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., ' Ia-,i . fiiJCJ : Kl:.AfcV JL : I . 1 IJMJ
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advanced for the majority of women, how dlsaatroua It I,to one' best china, grapha nhown to-day re !uteretlB in
and knowin that there ar hundreds ' la all these feverish ha.'neea how one this connection. , , . , .
of women wh wish to Vdress well and does . admire the men. with their stead- - . I have been favored with. glimpse
even handsomely -who have not tha f"t adherence tot . their . never-varying of some of the early atraw hat modela
taste or Inclination for extremes. Now clothe, and have you ever realised that and sketches of three of the most,
that , the Spring model : are . belnr the Japeneaa and Chlnee have not varied novel ones are ahow,n on thia . pae
shown ; and everything savors so their style for centuries? to-day (E, F, and O).' :
strongly of this long; past' time, I need There was In the thirteenth century a In spite of the prophesied ryolt
no Jonger heaitatei to advocate tha fashionable effect which J ; have lately aeainst the extremely large ; ha V a
lines which predomlpate. een Indicated In a walking ault, although vance hints for summer hats . show
Personally, I have -long' been fascl- the old name was not given, that of. the with' the advent or w,arm days,
nated with the middle ages, and dill- "dagged costume." where air the edges fashionable womenjwill w Jar
gent searching In the aid costume we.a cut out In. 'little squares or leaf- hats heavily trimmed with flowers, al
booka has been a source of great de ahaped piecea which must have fluttered hugh small flower toques will tbe
light .Comfort seems to hav been gaily in the breeze. , very popular.-
ft.'kaf.-f'ifc. a n. th. I.' v.in. Artlflclal 'fruits are very plentiful,
ladles or the thirteenth century, but .vkxml.tart-AW,..xrm-notM-u9m. lookitB bunches of grapes,
comfort from their point of view may tlg.it around the bottom, and our skirts. urrant"' and even S00966""8";
have been rather far removed from Showing a corresponding tendency to f" were TTIa'
the twentieth century Idea. And I widen, consequently theyare becoming faded josea and brilliant colored ones,
have been led to wonder if some much moieaceful.. In tt recent French :-! lal nf
ovef-aealousperaon would soon launch fashion peper a writer, who must have '". and prtm set bunches of thb
the gorget, or wlmple-I am not sure been a man, gave vent, with apologies to flowep lone' I ' -
which " is correct-.but h mean, the the fashion wrlterj to a wall for tha lost 7 n
drapery which 'swathed throatnd allurement of the petticoat, and tha -tllAJ linJianVl
head crossMg. undes the chin and of coquetry; In the tad of the maillot, with hydrangeM and fwlatarla bloom,
pinned up to the hair by -.large orna- or knjckerbocker, when she. took. off her ; ,n . t1"
mental plna They wora rata. too. dress sklrt It Is impowible for anyone .h- xfru th.' J!
I. th.v.i,.. .m. nnuii. -..f . t , . newest being the Marie Louise, tha
r.h.V i l T: V . .J Cabriolet, the flower pot and the Hen.
i that, I suppose, but pad. over fectly sure that women , will -return to the ' ,rTTT D, ,..i- v
' ba'r "" to.5T! flrm Tr P0"lt ! .V,r lB " c,oth:! palm for popul'arlty." and black Jet
trimming la In high favor. .One model
foundation on which to pin the drapery, and . wear what Is most becoming1.
This wimple wa. bound to tha hair by a the closeinglng skirt ,a her l.at affect n flne wVcV Vu,U
a,SL ' ' . - .?it' Mdlf !?,',,tha mented with little atr.nd. of black
jen tnere was me iau cornucopia F.l vr an.y gamereu ar termlnate(1 wJtn a Jet iwng(l,
shaped head dress from-, tha ' end of lrt Is kinder to her flgure, ahe may fel ,h(l . -11Q1,rlln,.
which floated a long veil, sometimes equally asaured of being in fashion
cover(ng th entire flgure, very plctur- French model gown, are Invariably
esoue and reealHne- falrv nrlnrwuw hut IonK m tn ltirt, but one must remember
esque, ana recajiing rairy princesses, bu tnat drlvlng ,n Parl8 Jg much more com.
wouldn't it be uncomfortable in a taxi! ' mon and much-less expensive than In
I was much amused to hear that tha America. .
wife of one of the early '. French Kings
Inaugurated the guimpe, when most wom
en showed bare necks, , because her
chest was flat and her neck skinny.
Perhaps it would be wiser not to re
mind the fashion exploiters In search
of novelties of those long oversleeves
wbjch swept to the bottom of the gown.
Now, that sleeves are so frequent-'
ly'made of the material of the gown,
the sleeveless coat 1. ona of the
Spring novelties, and very attractive
they are, too. Coats and skirts are
not nearly so often seen as the one
piece dress and coat. une. can sea
why these dresses are - called cas
socks, for they frequently resemble a
of large black pearls.
' - JANE. ,
? (A) (AA) Merovingian model in
dull saga green by Margaine La Croix.
ALTHOUGH we have been led by
comparatively easy stages rrom,
the Empire gown with its girdle'"
ascending toward the shoulder' blades
in ths back, to the Dlrectolre with Its
waist line crowding tha 'bust, it Is in
spite of the many indications of medie
val tendencies, something of a shock
to find ourselves suddenly over
- whelmed, and as it were whirled back
through the centuries, to come up
breathless and wondering, face to face
with faithful reproductions of thirteenth
century robes with their uncompromising
severity, revealing every line of our
too seldom faultless figures, with
never a frill or a frou-frou to beguile
and mislead. Surely women ran now
be released from the stigma of vanity,
for, no style could bo more trying to
the greater number or more becoming
to the favored few.
All the Winter my letters and sketches
from Paris have been leaning in this
direction, but I have had some hesita
tion In launching these ideas, think
ing they were a little too extreme and
for every woman who has tried to manip
ulate a tea table In flowing sleeves knows priest's gown, with their severe unfit
ted look, buttoned well up to tha
chin. Only a priest would be scan
dalized at .the daring little bit. .of
embroidery and fancy braiding. A
number of these one-piece gowns
have a straight band of trimming
across the back of the skirt about
ten inches below the waist line, from
which fall narrow, scant pleats.
One of my 'latest Paris sketches has
this effect, the band stopping abrupt
ly at the hTps. The same band
crosses the shoulders from the mid
dle of the back, turning squarely at
Una to continue rinyt-n fh
, T t rrfcfl .... ' -
v", 1 1'.
4
i
Do Men Regard the Domestic Woman as 'A Woman to Avoid?'
By DOROTHY DIX
M
rR. COSMO HAMILTON, a brilliant m.u.n ,,, tn marrw ahnni.i t0 'earn from so distinguished an
English playwright and drama- ,truggIe. Men have celebrated the vlr.-authority that domesticity after mar
tlst. had written an amusing ar- . woman - who knew how to r,e"e ' ,,tUe alluring; men as Ip
icle' which waa reproduced in this kf.ep R cJean hou8e an(, coQk a fiood the days of courtahlp.
paper the other day. in which he de- dinner and old bachelor have even Nor is confirmation of Mr. Hamilton's
Clares that the name of the domestic takpn refuge hlnd the bulwarks of tbeon wanting. Only a few days ago
woman is anathema, ana warns an oi domesticity and declared that the rea- 1 neara B most intelligent ana success
hi. fellow men who wish to enjoy their M dldn.t marry was becaua. J "h f the
uvea in peace 10 neo irora ..er. . , . tautrht every
Ha tells of the miseries of the poor
thing except how to make a home.
sacred subjects of the clean hearth and
tne well-spread table.
"Pooh!" he exclaimed. "With a. a-oad
henpecked man wno nas io wipe m All of this has sunk deep into the fm-;ioi on every corner or tne etreet. ana
feet on ths mat before he enters his Inine breast, wherefore women have n excellent restaurant in the middle
.r tantrt the Bufferings taken up the cult of domesticity. Cooking of the block, what does it matter
own door. He depicts tne suneni.gs been established in the pubUc schools whether a woman knowa how to cook
Of the husband whose wife Is always as a necessary part of the curriculum, or "?T
after him with a dustpan and a broom; and there is no girl left, except a fore- "Ther "re P'enty of places for a man
Who may not smoke U, the parlor for ordained spinW who can t do things o Ret ail he can eat. What he .want, in
I ear oi injuring u eirwiuD, wuv
not 'ue down upon a , couch lest he it's All Love'g Labor Wasted.
Will De Cheerful and ntvrtalnina- anil
charm him Into forgetting all the worries
. . . . . a "u . sai k:b as,iiu i i HHJt rffa il i s TMni I a nas nam
muss .ths sora cushions, ana wnose Ana now lt appears that this Is love's fought With all day."
whole comfort Is sacrificed by his wife iaDor wasted; that men are bored by do- Undoubtedly, however, the majority, of
'on the altar of cleanliness and neat- tnesUclty; and one of their number has "len d not take this ultra liberal view
. . .. . .. of matrimony. Most men mar tn rmt
mm., -.- - ' come -bowiy out sua asserts tnat tne . hom.. nn . knm. i.' ; '" -
. . - .a in. m imves-
brim, which Is cut up in the back the
same, as , in front, la of . black rough
- straw, joined to the crown . by large
. cut jet cabochont at Intervals , all the
way around. A flno large algret of
' . green rises straight up at one aide of
the front. ,
(r)Tn, model -'is made of a soft
'i taupe color in rough straw, the brim
decidedly Napoleonlo In ehape, com
Ing' well down over the ears on each
. side and flaring up away from the hair
' front and back. On the right aide
' spreads a magnificent group of taupe
' colored tips. Two long streamers of
' black aatin are sewn, without any
" softening loope whatever, on the edge
of the brim In the back, whence they
. are tied around the neck.
(G) This severe little hat of rote
of the'aame beads, and etrande of colored hemp la simply trimmed In
uia lta n we mm Ak. IImIiVam .k.J..
oeaaa lace the panels together, pes- --- ---
toons of shaded pink rosea are across " pa from left to right In front.
the butt and Dink chiffon sleeves. ana tne aarKer. snaao comma in tne
(E) The medieval Influence Is quite . " loops serosa the back and
1 apparent in this, which is very suflr ends at thevleft side. This shape la
festive of a Crusader's helmet In Its very flat and . narrow from back to
equare broad top. The crown Is of front, r the v Sides '. being distinctly
bright green hemp ' straw,; and the pointed.
J Tight Lacing Not to Blame for Appendicitis.
N a a . 1 I a . wmmm, Jn. i.'Uaal . - - a a . a ' .
The braided net band,, which is over
liningsof copper color, follows the long
walsted line, below which the skirt . MO.VQ tbe various long sUndiog In- ness doe to local pressure, and, lastly, the
falls In narrow side pleats. The aids dlctments against corsets and tight elevation of the temperature.. Ths sppen
ui.t thi. .hflwa where the lacing ha. been that they are the dlx caa float aronnd In a large space, and
view of this gown shows wne :nDN'o( ,PPei,dicltls. This indictment was while it is generally on the right side it
band of trimming stops on the hips, .quMned tne aaT D, jr. John B. has been found on the 'left .Ide. . There
while the-back it laid In pleats which Murphy .in a lecture before' the Chicago are time, when , the pain eatlrely dlaap-
Medlcai Society. "Whatever causes appen- pears and tne patient may still be. en tbe
(B)-A hedfern flown In. medieval JIdtis nobody know..- said Dr. Morphy. lightn ng express to death. The sodden
Amnno- h. . .....,,., , - . MtmLm, nn. Out cenaiuiy naanomius w-uw " i"u" , uua io rnpiures
,Am". h!ma"y.b,u",n! K.own ?! mode, which has the closs fitting up- common which allow s discharge Into free csvltie-.
a dangerous disease, becauas the
lueiriuro, iMuiiiwii, n i oomesuO woman is a. woman io avoid. y n me wora is a place that Is kept0
would be happy xHough married, give the n ; ja ; certainly discouraging to and orderly, and I. pre-f
doubl. cross to the dear, demure domestic women, for it shows that they are a. candfcnows howToea gooStfole!
glrL ' - r off as ever from having solved the . .... .
These bs bold and iconoclastic state- problem of what a man realy likes in But It iieaLly isn t AH True. side of the front to tha button of the extend nearly to the neck.
menu, but they are worthy of profound a woman. . -y'' -." ' - . Sav what ran wlll Anmttn ,. aklrt
consideration becau-e they fall from ths Of m'n .", fi;A?i. utti. tin vf that .it. - 7,",. L
.i. .s 1 n l a 5-1 1 UK VI 1119 !.-. ViJa wa,va- uia-a- - - ' wwav wrer lUtS u ' "
nthi.":. t. o' n,schT, per part covrl .ntlr..y:w,h-1,rown; tempers reUevl .h. pressare.
-.-v . Anv observer eould see that 1 ttis . ' wnCT" and nink. Th- ..ti- w.s and oold embroidery Simulating a cpa- ,ew ,1 "It U
Do men really dieliko
Is the domestic woman, after who sat in the parlor reading. Marie ,, n-. . "-any co
that w. hnve been led to suDDose. but a nice, squeezable condition, naa ten men uim.cr v--- a.v. ojapepsuv w an covered with
tiresome killjoy that makes her husband's flocking around her; wm '"UY rtch. embroidered In arold aad.liaM at' ths Jewels. Is skirt of bronie satin. , liable to have the tronbfc, but no surgeon el, which was' th. name It wi. frn..ri.
' InVworL f the dmmalden the liousWeVrlTFalr for K.tVl tough waist line with a beautlfoil band , of (C)-The priestly Influence ie shown ha. ever discovered its' real, cause. V';. known, by, was an extremely fatal dimes,
one tosvoid when a man goes to pick out and cake, and was rnotherjs halper, teerteaic ana watery, potatoes many a gold embroidery. . 1 ; this tailored suit of gray chiffon -But we do know arpe-dfdti. in a!lof no .ppendlcltis would-be Ju.t a. fatal If
awtfa: v .. , JI" PSuf "be'a interfered "me, and there s no grounds for divorce .Although ther. wef, many handsome " " " .. 8ht effect uature end llr the destruction lh.t It lowers not for the .urgeon'. .kill la re
T'eswt Otrlt ITn In tha Air " with by any beau at ill l"" - common ss the grounds In the coffee gown, at th. Automobile Show, gener- "ohair' ts .long tra.Ont effect. more :tmmm summer moving the appendix before it h.d.-a
4.CSVC wttis wp in mc au. , it has also been a matter of common pot. , V " J " . " :.. "r epvered with evening , wraps. The The embroidered bands, are done in tnah ,. -lBler. u. something that . portunlty to rjiptnre.and send Its flery ad
These words srllt fall with the dull, cold knowledge that the K1 J1'0 . In .pits of tlila. It Is true that domeaw most perfect color scheme wa. s little self-toned crewel stitcti. - cannot run away from, because' It I. fonnd poisonous discharge iBto'th. vital organs
thud of despair upon the ears of the mar- Df?vir ofv chance to - be sny tlclty, per ae, does not attract roea They mahogany-colored pickaninny, at one ni Superb evenina OOwn designed n alt euarter. of the' globe... There -are t the ..body. ; Sometimes nature protect.
they otter another proot of how dliTksuIt But thena hv een-' supposed to-1 process, -They demantl tbat tho house- ermnre-colored uni form, which toned r wirgams V " I T Inflsmmstloii 'of tbe towels; 'hoi' that Is .bo -'caiii'iiels.VI' -A ' :
Any wbwi tw. w -. r .a.tuin I. i r . - " n k, me satin under-aress was mt , . . -
domesticity in a KVseV on a ' buUon. and I tired mab 0t 4 ,ove"r Pl. which was 0f mall. The neck is filled with ch If- "Some people charge It p-ta rheums- appendix ,n fill op and th. patient die la
to boil water r "''.,: a.urea man comes noma at night to un- Bari --.- . ..... ti.m nthjra to maaslix.- There are ter-1 th!rr-on .nra . Th.,.
w wno sat in me uariui - -.r.r -noma snd nnm.4. K. ... . ' - -, fnn DUIfflDI. Wniie. ISIIiny ui-imit . - ... ..-. - .. m ' -"""-
ell. not the pearl f .great price a. a wife Corellland keeping her handir In a - -" oeep , t . . n.t 1'hla tunic 'was. In turn- - . .. fl6d bead, ,nd W".Jr..T!i?.-!I . ' .? .C? . ,he
second tunlo, heavily " -v . . : it, omers imi, unorricu -ywiii. ;iuuii ra sppe-aicin. innammauon of ths bow-
It t. tor's woman to really find out wlt.'' tlvS:l XnLSoM to? 4? sJ thhHi ,B TbIy rii his rolling .yes and Queen In Co Rol Dagobert, the French eaiI,e bav. not recognised lt as appen- ' ; The Mortality rate wits medrcat treat
a nan likes tn a wife, and what. qusJIUes the ideal ife must be as domestic aa at work, lubricating the bearings.-- , sjUstenlng teeth. : v . play. Oyer. Straight gown of peach, dlcltis, -r ; " went alone 1 about 20 per cent, while it I.
la the n t-ana. tne: piay i ot Dago- gji are fjve panels of net, studded : Tnere is no disease. where the symptoms less than onc-afth of sl ajrr cent under u
They, bert." with' J Its- wonderful costumes. ,th indeaeant bead, snd nalllettaa. r niore ,nIform nd 11 ls one of the gleaf treatment if operated on In, it. lnels.
' should cultivate ea a first aid to the the cookbook, for a man's ante-nuptlai . in short, tlien,- men want, to avoid
ur. " - ' and Doat-nuDtial demands of a woman domestic woman, but not her works. T,
For year, and year, domotlcity ha. VZa'Z&r Snd'pottoss?:""- oked d TnsTbut wlo .vTr snlI."of hv iWl' Each nana! U furahedh a" r n diagnose. ,rat tent stages. 7 No mcdlcin.. ha., ever SMS
tr hr'.l up aa the goat toward which no1 it la jarring, to say the least of the kitchen. , , ' Ut the medieval trend, and th. photo en panel ia lurnisnea witn a fringe ther U the pain, than Che nausea. Lb sore- discovered that will cause a cure.