! Copyright, . 1909 by American-Examiner.. Great Britain fighti Reserved.
C3
Variou
s-w-iHir student of fashion, finds It dlfft- cwicettlshneii which we American are
ilt to reconcile tbe Baying "curved rapidly learning from our French sisters!
1 tha line of beauty" with tho'Uow many and how becoming are the
straight up and down expression which all ddlnty little lingerie' ruffle, apd frilly
straigni up ana u 1 th,ngg t Becj sndvs,eeTe9j can any-
women " " " ' " ,tn tne atd thing bo prettier than a black , eortnrae of
TJTJZ?1 r;nm.rbut tha un-simple . the drew a truly dreas, In-
maiorlt b U T on a more gen. ste.d of the long suffering shirtwaist, with
fortunate m' Dul' "taclng. ,tBelf tiny gulmpe of tucked net, the coat long
erous plan. "c J , . nd Beml-flttlng, turned back at tbe throat
tr J artWn, In' tte complaint of with a fetching glimpse of white? Why do
There 1 ""J""" n0 )on. we not all have, pneumonia, one wonders,.
one youn, m"" "'wa m No w York With our fur. hanging off our shoulders, so
mirrors in the shop window " much more becoming that w. our low
TZJL VtTtZx length mir'ror. shoe, and thin stockings. What mere ma.
others see er. " " conia stand tbe exposure?
n.ore preralent ne gh be , pared many noTeItl(m
nrm In clinging sWrts and nar-
row steeve, on a tall, well-proportioned
ngure? It is- wise-to moderate , the style
slderably. for .those less fortunately
j T .
; However, the average American woman
, . i
e'xtrr.rr"row npon" he'
serva tlve class..,,
It Is strange, to-hear that from ParJa
which is credited with producing all the
-.m. . vmfortinff word
The "ratloiar' or "sensible" skirt now
TI " . . tHa w ,,..,
being produced to one of the big houses.
nw efftw'.uleVVd";
strnslre pleats in the back, stitched down
almost to the knees, then being left to fall
tree,' glvin a little more case than the
watomary width of -two yards around be
bottom. .'.
- A further sign of a saner point of view ts
an occasional return to the pleated skirt..
Not the old familiar affair, but one In
which tbe top is as closely fitted as ever,
while around the feet, from the height of
the knees, the material la kilted. This
skirt, as well as all others, is presumably
worn, without any nnderskirt. But one
wonders how many women, .really and
trnly, have given up their "tempestuous
petticoats."
, While the long coat is still In high favor,
so - long that the effect la often that of a
double skirt, there are Indications of the
return to tli bolero, which may be shorter
than ever, since one extreme Is very likely
to follow another. ' This tendency Is so
far cnly suggested in the trimming, as for
Instance, in one model of elephant serge
the braid and soutache follow the short
wclsted Hue, and extend In tabs or sash
ends down the back.
Isn't it delightful to see the increase of
ft
r 4 "i
'i,ii,l:'
"if
HP, If
I
itt
and a Mn.lb.e one. too. 1. a pair o
-colored underthing. to be worn under
the stcoklngs so that one can with lm-
Pnlty wear the' moat open of openworks
Tbe bntton which has reigned so long
Jfff U ""t placed by the
oval-shaped olivine, placed slantwise u Don
-- a manner most fetching Many
t,i,.nk,i, i.hi.i. .
dull colors.
lma" "
A very smart little walking salt of blue
tri"n tber embrold-
ered In blue, and buttons corered , with
leatheri Another
tacco hrown diagonal serge was brigh,
a
v
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Hull
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'II, Wl'
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r
B
. IrJInti
ened with touches of dull autumnal red,
nature's own coloring.
One. learna many lessons from fhl
source. Have you ever noticed the ex-
quisles .brown Telvet spots on. some bot.
terllles, icattered over a dull bine back-
ground Eren the design on the edge
of the wing 1. perfect, a narrow unevea
border extending In points between the
brown spots. Surely onr fashion colorista
obtained that glowing reddish orange from
,
,
, s .
feg
r
,ft
one of these beauties. Tt Is much pleaa
anter to think so than the credited source,
burnt butter.
There is a dashing .little wild bird
which has a color scheme one might copy
to advantage--clear black and white
stripes, with a quite "a little darling vest
of scarlet
It is rather curious to see braiding In a
distinctly mediaeval pattern taken perhaps
from a crusader's helmet and shield, upou
s coat patterned after the simple Dlrec
tolre period.
The manner'ln which women carry their
long, narrow trains over the arm Is copied,
from the picturesque ladies of the. Empire,
although the charm of dainty colored silk
hose and satla heelless ssndals must have
been greater than that of patent leather.
Does Cupid Fight
D'
rlrls wllhnnt mnn mn
- ... .. "
readily than girl, with money? Well
I, of coarse, write mainly from my
own axperlence, and I have come to the
(ipmtuo luai. uiuu cbk. ui
oi a lunune, ireti or unit, ii, i-iu'"
bar to a girl's Juat appreciation by marry
Ing men.
,.. ut in ih. r f thai, (trh
blndmnce tbey set In the way of their girls.
If lhK hmn mnnpv. In nine cases out Of
ten tney think It their duty to see thet
,,.. a. L f . .nrnnled (that
luv - .
JB US pnrssej WHO pennueae iiuuxi.- tin
fact that the girl, have money seem, to
make It an absolute necessity, that they
shall marry men with money. They are
thus forced, or rather, delicately urged,
Into marriages "de convensnee," as poorer
slrls seldom are. This Is, when tbey marry
IV
)
U
43
-. -i, . - .
iut many or tnem po not marry,
Men with tbe average amount of .elf-
resnect dn nnf k. .....onin.ri
tajnntei, when they are In love, to prove
lo me examiner that they aft la love with
toe owner of the money-bags for her own
Mke onlv. it is hntt . Mnnt
suppose that women have the monopoly of
"r. a.. . , . .
My dear girl, I once heard a mother
Bar to her daughter, nnnn aflpr th Hrl
bad finished her education, "with yonr ad-
n.... t .ie-i.
. , v.,
weiu ic ran wjia yourseii.
Ths girl's advanUge. were f.250,000 In
her own right and a pretty face,
As a child she bad as sweet a disposition
My child could. We; b.t at twenty
she was cold-natnred, and, to the com-
mon eye, distinctly naughty. -Ths phrase
Its apparel, the
and those upon
fsncy run flot,
, To leave outdoors .and
most fascinating clothes
which one can let one's
are the Indoor garments.
i-vrr rr iik softer and more Dllable.
never were colors more seductive. The
craze 'for cold has entered eves Into ms-
..... -. . s i. . m mi ruiAnlir
tenuis, mu oa ui m, .v-w -
shades is as aesr the color or pure gom
Shy of Heiresses?
. .. -a -i v. sh
tnat was locauy vu ,..
fancies herself." Is exprcs.lv. -She Js
tm nnmnrrlod. and likely to remain so.
She looks with such ' manifest suspicion
opon tne advances oi "J , -
loat lne lllE'17 suuor -
venlent to ao elsewhere.
Ana now let ns
The seukible mother, who has two of
tn0 u-htfrs undowered except with
. .i. niiriM anil m-iml advises
her girls on the subject of tbeir powlble
. with much niore-success . than
tlJ8 sdvloe of tne moiner o nca .
sneets wltn.
aJS'BfieSyi"t ?T3 fo
tunes!" . '
Rome men are eaugbt by pretty fares,
iJtSll
ia -tajn cf a bnsband (Indeed wide
choice of husbands) ss anytbing ts car-
as possible. , This' admits or reaulres very
little trimming, (and' a truly regal gowa
of soft,; clinging satin was seen recently
at tbe opera.
Cut in absolutely simple lines, the soft,
ding skirt mounted .. to the . bust, , with
; a garniture of heavy, gold around the low.
cut neck. A little twist of gold, ribbon
in tbe hair completed this most satisfying
costume." '. ' i . . i
.At , tbe Metropolitan - Opera.' - with
- its graceful horseshoe and rich, deep color- '
Ing, what 1s wrong with the lighting that
all women look; haggard?- Theoretically It
should be the most becoming ' background
Imaginable. ' but did not 'one recognize eer"
tain girls , known to be debutantes one
would say there were no young women In
the house. Jt does not seem possible that
youthful freshness can he dimmed by the
blase of 1 diamonds and the glitter of
electric lights.
Another, unfavorable Impression is pro-.
: duced by the lack of taBte In dressing shown '
by the really old woman. . Who- does not
love a truly old lady, with her white hair
ana conuorumie porcunessT way, on wny,
, bare her over-generous arms to the shoulder
. and expose her unyoutbful neck to the vul- brightened -up by a little vest of gold em-
gar gase? broidery, with a soft how of orange or rose
Then Is such a beauty and dignity In telvet.
tbe woman who Is frankly old. with her. .White gloves, seem, for the Immediate
white balr beautifully dressed, and let us moment, to have lost a little of their popn.
say, a delicate peart gray or white gown, larlty. Suede gloves In allf the delicate
made. In a suitable fashion, with some soft .hades of tan or to match one's gown art
real old lace about tbe neck, a, diamond tc , often seen.
' necklace yes, diamonds are perfect, for Some of the afternoon gowms have ador
. , " able little -gulmpes of illusion laid In folds.
Bparkle seems to be the orde'r of the dayX as It Is too perishable to tuck, bnt tbe effect
for sequins of i all colors, sliver and gold Is extremely dainty.- The cut out yoke Is
bugle trimmings, and gold are everywhere, becoming smaller and smaller, very oftea
One of the prettier effects Is new. this Of the sketches, shown on this page.
Winter, the nse of gold under lace, either , , (A) . ! a very practical little gown
colored or white. t , ,
A beautiful gown of rose chiffon velvet
was gorgeous with heavy embroideries In
.
'
u
- M
' ' i ri
darker tones, the long, elose sleeves and
deep, square yoke being made entirely of
point applique lace over gold gauie. Tbe
good effect was somewhat marred by some
silly chiffon fold, over the shoulders.
One of the most useful as well as be-
coming gowns to have Is a black meteor
crepe, suitable for almost any occasion, a.
Ir Is not too elaborate for wear to the then-
nr til. ftnara tfn titm ihafra nf mnml
- - - - -
or o umuer ot rii. . .
tain In this life. :
A rl h , , i. hamiered sadlr In thla
p.luar She ll STiTht" th!t It Is
not needful for her to make herself
charmiug. Her money la supposed to do
. Another thing." The poor man Who mar-
rnm u ncn wne almost luvananiy uooins
hlmseif-.it U a pretty general law if social
nn the other aide circumstances to a life of married sub
look on tbe otner siae uctvieri1X). Tfae temj,tatloll to 6nA who.
. ly npon his rich wife's Income l not to be
restated. In other words, he condemns blm-.-
self to s secondary position. , -
r This U mn rtUtnafcfni in think nf anil
of Itself deters many men from proposing
to rich girls.--., . ..
in cumrnsi wnn sucn a sirnaiinn, tne
viuiubij nun wuo mimes Kin lor oer
&.tgSfE!&3Z
are, of conrse. much Increased, bnt so also
is his sens of manhood, ills self-etem,
ti th b.n suwlff W.isd.
refuge of the sweet, helpless young creature
w no ftas given neraeix to nina xor lire.
fir ''
'.-fry"
k, 's. . Jill
jjo.WYSl.,.i.. 11 ,
Madame 'Jane.
The one In question has a transparent
yoke and sleeves of thin black, lace over
' wTilf Mrttaia4iilntt Kit nit f4 ttAvw avmTrWki(V. ,
erea Iftec alwt tne .boulders, disappearing
i the folds about the waist, the whole
yyhich ia cut on rather new and very
u ; n... Vk. .-A
... . , ", . , , . ,
buttonholes and soft folded sask are
of black satin. The tucked guimpe and
lower part of sleeves are of deep cream
net. ' '
(B) Is a diagonal serge coat, with
novej rovers taken from the coat of
one of Napoleon's officers; the vest, of
I suede, which buttons to the left side,
has the same rovers, a large button-
i. hols on the right side and an equally
large button on the left. The same
buttonholes go three-quarters of the
way down the right front, with cor
responding buttons on the Isft.
(C) is a meteor crepe afternoon
gown in soft leaf green. ' Tha If ng,
narrow yoke In gold gauze under finely
tucked net. This gold gauze extends
under tha heavily embroidered lace,
which reappears in tha sleeves.
(D) This sash arrangement is very
good on an evening dress, and is mads
with heavy crocheted rings, through
which tha sash is laced.
(E) is a cotillon dress for young
girls, of white or pale colored point
d'esprit. The skirt is laid in tiny tucks
around ths hips, ths novel ribbon ar-
rangemsnt holding the fullnesa rather
. close to the form, and tied ones in
front and back, with drops on end.
' Airy choux of tulle connect the scarf
drapery on the sleeve.
. (F) ' This picturesque and becoming
evening hood ia made with a wired
Alsatian bow on top. From each aide
. hang pleated jabots of lacs covering
the hsir.
(G) Ths first sleeve is made entirety
of a braided fold of chiffon cloth, which
flares into a wing effect around ths
bottom. - The second Is not really a
sleeve at all, simply a lovely garniture
of roses sxtending over the shoulder,
from which thres or four ribbons of
velvet are caught together, forming a
bow on the outside of the arm, ,
, (H) A suggestion for the sver prev-
stent jabot. Ovsr a. little bow of black
sstin tha net is drawn, falling in two
soft, long ends. ". JANE.
I
NB large carrot,, two onions, two
turnips, one tablespoonful of salt,
pepper to suit taste, a little parsley
and marjoram; xkop on fourth of a pound
of salt pork, put It on to boll in one quart
of water: cut all tho vegetables Into small
pieces, and add them after the pork ha
simmered twentf minutes, adding boiling
water enough to make two quarts of, liquor;
- cook slowly two hoars. Boll half a pound
of macaroni In milk until It ia very tender,
adding salt and one tablespoonful of butter;
Tut Into the toreen and pour the soup upon
It through a colander; add a gill of cream
or milk, the parsley and marjoram the Inst
Mirny, sou serve.
Family nd Pension Bibles.
An extraordinary demand has arisen In
tbe eastern counties of England for second
hand Bibles tbe older and dirtier, the better..-
,i Copies which formerly realised four
now reauuy oougnt for half a
rown.
Tbey are being URed to manufac-
tore evidence of age in the case of old
owe fK-uBioiiK. a woman wno produced a
Bible to prove her ace as seventy-six from
an entry on the flyleaf had, unfortunately,
omitted to tear out ths title page, wbU-U
showed that the Bible was printed in 1895.
Argonaut..
y Facts Inspire Fiction.
A land agent in tbe great Northwest bad
Just described the. Incredible riches of the
region. Some, one protested, and he de
fended himself with a oaradox.
'Tbe t rut ii ts o wonderful that It tat-oa
K whopper to express U !"Outlook.
And Father-in-Law.
The Louisville . Courier-Journal savs
Speaker Cannon is now a grandfather. He
S"!1 Al f"5 e?mbtned step-'
imuer una xuicu uncle. ttasnington I'osu
Absorbing..- ,
"Is the new filing system a success?'' '
"Great!" -(
"And how's business;
"Oh. we've stonoed busineiK. to attpml ta
the .flllng system." Boston Traveller.