PATTERN AND DESIGN TRANSFER SECTION
1
EMBROIDERING
COLLAR SETS
7TW
LL the health doctors and health faddists insist that afcvoman
who wants - lovely complexion, bright eyes and. freedom cutwork are no longer in vogue.
buttonholing L The appearance Is so much ihe same that few
observe the tiny knot which characterizes the latter. .
The dots in the scallop's may be made either like those in. the
center of the flowers or in a hole, as described. . ' s -
Small cut figures are still employed in connection with solid
embroidery and are made like. Englisji cutwork, but called Madeira,
embroidery, because the inhabitants .of ' the Madeira Islands do the ,
work for New York. Combinations of open figures, with satin-
stitch embroidery are always effective, but large patterns of solid
from headaches should wear low and loose collars. Van-
rify whispers that if a woman has a pretty neck Hie ought, -certainly,
to show it because it is so healthful and sensible to do so. 1 here-
fore, low collars are still as popular in the" winter for house dresses
and dressy gowns as they have been in summer.
These pretty collars bear the general title of Dutch, because
Dutch women are proverbial for pretty, round and somewhat short
necks, which make this style of collar peculiarly, charming upon
them. The set shown this week is termed a Dutch collar set and pro
vides simple, yet very fashionable and attractive embroidery designs
for a round collar, a belt and belt tab and pocket. The latter is one
of the most useful of the season's many picturesque and dainty
fashions.
Neckwear is one of the most important features in this winter's
dress and a woman must possess a great variety and quantity of
fetching collars if she would be stylish" at all. In all the fitted or semi
fitted collars and neckpieces, embroidery and other forms of needle
work are prominent.
The Dutch collar appears particularly attractive upon little dinner
jackets of velvet, fine cloth, satin or more flimsy and fussy mater
ials, as well as on dressing sacqucs, house dresses of all sorts a,nd
clothing for children.
To make the design illustrated one must take into account the ma
terial upon which it is to appear. If on a velvet house jacket, the
work should be done with colored silk or with gold or silver tin
sel thread or else with tiny beads. Beaded designs are quite smart.
If the material is to be washed one must work with mercerized cot
ton thread, since that is the only kind that washes to perfection
without care on the part of the cleaner or laundress.
All the scallops in the pattern must be outlined with a double
thread of soft, rather than thick floss of an untwisted variety. The
closer the twist in a thread the less valuable it becomes as a fill
ing or padding thread. After the double outlines of the scallops
have all been run with filling threads, pad the wider portions of the
scallops with more thread, taking care in all this work, no mat
ter how large the stitches may he, to draw the threads very evenly
and smoothly or else the embroidery will not look well. After the
outlining and padding has all been accomplished, work over the scal
lops with over and over stitch, or satin stitch. If the garment Is
to be laundered frequently, work all the scallops in buttonhole stitch
and afterwards cut away the material from the edges of the scal
lops, just as it must be cut from the edges of all embroidery after
the design has been worked.
"One docs not need a hoop to hold this design firmly in place,
but a hoop might be employed to advantage if the worker is a be
ginner and wants all the little daisies in the conventional design
worked without puckering the goods.
Outline the petals of the flowers, fill them in with lengthwise
threads and then work crosswise in satinstitch. Outline the polka
clot in the center, pad that, and work across it in the same way. On
some materials it is pretty to poke a hole in the center of the
flower with a stiletto, turn over and sew down the rough edges
of the hole, outline its outer edge and work over it with a very
narrow buttonhole stitch.
A
The fashionable embroidery of the season is pre-eminently satin
stitcri or French embriodery, with its padded figures smoothly
worked, over and giving an impression of richness which no other
style of embroidery, unless done in bright colors, ever conveys.
It is a pretty fancy to wear a handkerchief pocket hung upon
the belt and to have beltand tab worked in the same design as
that employed upon the collar. The little pockets come in nicely,
too, for mother's keys and grandmother's spectacles, to say nothing
"of serving as a cunning little receptacle for pieces of fancy work
or love letters, which girls like to carry around handy to r.efer to.
Designs furnished for collars may always be used, if one likes,
to furnish' garland patterns for dresses and panels of dresses. They
may be traced in opposite directions and thus form circular patterns
for household linen or fancy bags and cushion tops. The other lit
tle designs are always easy to trace upon cuffs, sleeves and points
of coats "and overskirts, to say nothing of children's clothing. To
keep a design merely for one purpose is poor economy. An attrac
tive design can be used for an infinite variety of purposes and
worked in an infinite variety of stitches and colors, and, when one
tires of it, some friend is always thankful for so useful a present
Very small designs and scallops require a different outline treat
ment from those, of1 good sizes and bold patterns. The running
thread through '"the outline of small "figures and tiny scallops should
be the same as that used upon the outside of the figure. Fine linens
usually take 30 and 35 working cottons, and sizes vary to coarser
and finer threads for heavier and thinner materials. The same care
must be taken in selecting silks for embroidering upon silk, satin or
cloth. Filoselle is a very fine thread which is peculiarly adapted
to close, smooth satinstitch designs. Bolder designs and fancy
stitches df other sorts require different thicknesses of filo, working
floss, lustrous silks and rope silks. It is always a good plan, if one
does not know just what size of thread will serve best upon an
article, to take or send a scrap of the goods to the shop where the
working materials are to be purchased. Clerks are trained to know
what threads are best for certain fabrics, but to learn this onc"s self
saves mistakes and insures beautiful work. A good deal of the
loveliness in a design is Hue to the proper selection of the working
threads for different portions of the pattern .so that each will be
brought out effectively.
While solid, or "blind" embroidery, has superseded eyelet wprk
in popular favor for dresscshe same is not true of other articles
of use and attire. Underwear is very fashionable when worked,
with eyelet embroidery and this launders well and is rapidly made.
Cut-work, eyelet embroidery and Madeira embroidery are all done
in the same manner.
Openwork is also attractive ,upon cuffs and collars and on house
hold linen. ' ... . "
Some of the newest forms of openwork embroidery are Hede
bo and Danish embroidery, both of which are very beautiful and dur
able, and are not applicable to sheer or fine materials, although beau
tiful as a trimming for many of these.
Both Hedebo and Danish work require a mingling of face
stitches with 4he design, and these take some of the forms known
to ornaments in drawn-work, with which everyone is familiar. But
tonhole stitch is a feature of Hedebo work, and that is one reason
why that work is so durable.
Neither of 4hese handsome forms of embroidery and lacework
stitch used for embroidered edges, and erroneously called are to be confounded with Hardanger embroidery, which is much
heavier ana less lascinating in appearance. In Hedebo work all
the eyelet holes take artistic forms and groups of forms, and all
are filled, in with such fancy or lace stitches as will best add to the beau
ty of the design. A surprising number of beautiful lace stitches are
imrouuceu mio mis woric so mat me neeaieworKer can never be at a
buttonhole stitch, is even more quickly made than buttonholing and
wears about as well. It makes a" closer and more finished em
broidery edge than buttonholing gives. Embroidery edging stitch
is done by working each stitch inside the outer edge, which gives
strength to the material, but it is not completed with a knot,, as loss for some one which she can easily and quickly form.