THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL', PORTLAND. SUNDAY MORNING, NOVEMBER, 22, 1908:
FRENZIED
in-One Gown, Stockings WitK Tassels,
Pantaloon Skirts, New TanagraGowns WitK
..Corsets Sewed Into Tnem, a Four-Dresses-AU-
Boneless Corsets, Fourteen-Foot"; Hats and Paris ienne Effects in "Knicters
FASHIONS
By Mrs. Cholly ' Knickerbocker.
WHEN the split directolre gown
made lt appearance last spring
you thought the limit of the
risque in dress had been
, : " reached -didn't you?
You held up your hands In righteous
horror and shut your eyes at least you
pretended to shut your eyes, but it's
, my private opinion that you tdok care
to keep one corner open. It wouldn't do
. to miss anything, you know.
But now you - must rlose your eyes
and bold your breath, because here is
something mora shocking, more scandal
; us, more sensational than the split
sheath skirt ever thought of being.
The French designer must have spent
Wnatlon chemise and "knickers" ' of
finely woven silk, which, being elastic,
hugs the form like its own skin. The
other is a corseted frock.
Think of corset and gown In onet A
consummation of French genius, one
thinks, that were , it not for the un
deniable' expense of the clever notion
it would spread like wildfire in popular
-lty. v- .
But this latest clever thought of on
of the great French modistes Is not In
expensive. For only the most skilful
of stav-makers are employed to make
the corset, which Is fashioned of the
lining of the frock. ' He builds It abso
lutely as he would an ordinary corset,
following the measurements carefully.
When completed it Is returned to the
modiste, who then proceeds to build the
gown upon it. '
And such a perfect fit as results! And
such a slenderness!
But only for the long : of purse Is
duces 'the underclothing to a minimum. . edly downward in dimension. If not in
For the iucky, lucky woman who is price.
not cursed with superfluous flesh the . The - transparent .' fabrics of evening
edict of 'No corsets with Tanagra costumes, of course, demand 'something
gowns" should be of the greatest Inter- In the way of an under petticoat, but if
est The great dressmakers all agree . you must wear a petticoat It must not
that even the lightest corseting spoils
the svelte lines demanded by these ar
tistic frocks. The graceful droop at the
waist, the lax poae of the figure, the
languid air of the whole silhouette is
best obtained when few underclothes
and no corsets at ail are worn.
This does sound a bit startling at
first, but It is an actual fact, that with
some of the more extreme of the new
Grecian and Tanagra 'costume effects
the corset will be dispensed, with alto
gether. inTftrplace will be worn a lit
tle contrivance or rather two , con
trivances of satin, which, while giving
the necessary support at the bust and
keeping the figure flat below the -waist
1 n rront. will leave n! wcnicr. auair
be of lingerie. To a princess jersey of
knitted silk, so fine that you could al
most draw the whole garment through
a finger ring. Is attached a knee-deep
flounce of lace-trimmef net, with per
haps an under flounce of softest chif
fon. k ; r -4
And since the multiplication of under
garments amounts almost to a crime,
according to the present way of think
inf, corsets and petticoats and corsets
and knickerbockers are now turned out
all made. in one by enterprising design
ers and manufacturers. Thus we find
ftettlcoats of finely woven silk, cllng
ng in the extreme, built In one piece
wrai iigntiy, oonea corsets, the whole
' ' i 3 ) 4 f V
t ffj if $f ;f
- ' " i f 4i i U i
bars. It would be more charitable to
imagine hat he ate a great quantity
of pate-de-foie-gras - sandwiches and
drank many glasses of absinthe, after
which he had a nightmare of the worst
description. Result: This latest split
gown.
From the .hack they look qiflte ordi
narylong, tightly-fitted. But the
front view leaves you in doubt as to
whether the wearer's nether limbs are
per part of boned corset cover, which, it
you are - reasonably slia-ht. -does awav
with the need of mora substantial cor-
,nn,rrPlfrfellnfne12tS thischeme possible, for! ofour.e. It utely free and unhampered at the waist H'M"? :,KrfecLitn r.nI,"i
this horror In feminine att re or, per- mPAn. - corset for each mwn. Vh line. ; kJilckers of silk or lingerie with anup-
hum i wAiui rn mnni phnritah a tn . ' ' , . " . . .! i . -, t ... , .n...n i.a mavm Tier .Dtri or nonea cnraec cover, w
aress is actually maoe ana sewea upon An iuuiuniur,! uan.i -It
Rut tar thn. shn ran atfnwA tt ithf this season's fashions ignore the
Is a luxury . worth considering. No uooer part of the figure that the lines "hj
mora uncertain corseting to mar the fit from the waist down are all that count, seung.fi; :
This may weu De so, ror wim waist r Ana just at present - xnicxers are
lines creeping up under the armpits quite the most attention-holding part of
there is not much to be corseted above our feminine toilette, petticoats having
one's sash. - . been given such a '"knockout" blow.
For another thing, much lower-busted And when one comes, to " think of It,
corsets are favored by the artists In fancy a Naiad, or the winged Vlctorv.
the newest costuming, no woman lacea
rigidly Into one of the unyielding high
corsets recently in vogue could possi
bly have the lissome, unconfined grace
of form imperatively necessary for
true classic outlines. But as the Inches
are clipped off the top of -the new cor
nets thev are added to the bottom, and
the tendency of new- models is assur-
of one's adored frock; for every woman
knows that even the best of corsets Is
an uncertain thing, apt .one day to be
too tight, another refusing to' lace even
ly. But with this corset -and-gown-ln-one
arrangement all this Is done away
with. And. as 1 said just before, it re-
--1
m
0 V
1 A-1
:s the Very Newest of New
Ideas in the Dressmakers' Art.
They Now Malte the Gown Onto
Corset, Which lhus Becomes
Lining of the Dress.
til . l X
or any or the joveiy arapea creatures r M . i f -ff ?' ;- , f I" it f t'W it
from whose gracious outlines- the cos- II V- t f J v 5 ? . it l '. 1
tume, designers profess to be taking T i ' h f - V v - f II UfA,f, Kfi 1
-'jfV ' -';' ' bly have the lissome, unconnnea grace tneir inspiration in petticoats. -No, " yW - f -J if v j v t ' B s S 1 ' '
v v 'w :'- '.''- of form imperatively necessary for Bisters; If we are to be classic let th vA V f -V NJ . ' . a i ffyt if mi
. r V- - true classic outlines. But as the Inches thing be done thoroughly. A petticoat (fy. V -1 " t r fi f f f f f Jf
j,: ?'. , . are clipped off the top ofthe new cor- In. a tradition, to be sure, but what a Trxi K J i f . ? k,i , M '-i , f
" ,,J nets they are added to the bottom, and trifle Is a tradition in the acquirement llvk') V v I - - - '( - ! ' if f ' '
I . - x t ' the tendency of new-models 1 assur- of artl v s , ivy At - ft ' ; . t ,
y' x i ' ' ' s
T'l V 7 H'AJ5.. VJ'. Jl ffJ ' -Vt -v.-y Ys Her
. p n m, ';i m : -- j j?
WMwWv , ! r. AmM .
" "WMi !. tff$h '
The Toreador .. SfF WtMm
onVofLitest .r. ytS- ' : lIj r ec&fflllf
.encased In masculine or feminine at
tire. Anything more , like trousers,
when, in reality, they are not trousers,
you never saw. They remind you of
; the ancient joke about the poor suffra
gettes about "wom.n's rights" being
"man's lefts" and you wonder if the
perpetrator of this practical Joke in the
way of women's clothes had an "ink
ling inkling Inkling" that the strong
minded sisterhood is going to demand
the rlKht to don man's attire as well as
casting votes. Some people, you know,
are prepared for all emergencies.
But, as In the comment-provoking dl
rectoire skirt, th split's the thing.
H starts at the hem directlv in the
renter of the front and runs up. divid
ing the skirt to about 10 inches below
.': thA natural ra!at Una Th. . nm nr t
. pieces of the skirt are then drawn back
. and fastened by elastics to the center
back seam of the skirt. As thn skirt
is very narrow In cut this virtually
forms two trouser legs, completely out
lining the limbs of those courageous or
outrageous enougn 10 wear it.
Oh, It's a horrid thing In clothes, I
assure you. And I sincerely hope they
will suppress It before it has a chance
4o cross the ocean, and inflict Itself
upon us here. But anything for a sen
sation the more risque the better so
perhaps, the hope Is a vain one.
The war against hips has now been
raging for some time, but It still goes
Badly on. Fat women etrueK-linir to be
. mm ana tnm women striving to be
thinner still.
It is not In this day the matchless
figure that draws admiring and envious
glances, but the figure like a match.
And so desirable has this attribute nf
wlllowyness become that the modish
Ideal Is almost that represented by the
attenuated , Bernhardt. ,of whom they
used to say: When she took her bath
he had to be very, very careful to keep
the stopper in the -tub lest in an un
watchful moment she might be car
ried down the drainpipe with the water!
If you have hips prepare to shed them
now, is the uncompromising edict. And
very single Woman being from the
vine-like, creature who has a slender
waist, but unfortunately "Is waistline
all the Way up." to the comfortable
soul who bulges generously wherever
her ... corset will permit It has fallen
Into the procession and enthusiastically
taken up the slogan: "Down with Fat:"
Ah, that we were all paper dolls from
whom a facile clip of the scissors might
eliminate the too redundant outlines!
However, such accommodating surgery
la not possible even in these day of ac
complished beauty doctors, and the
road to slenderneea Is apt to be a hard
and bleak one, the goal to be attained
only by arduous dieting,: expensive cor
seting and that bugaboo of the average
woman, etranuourt exerciser''
The vital nuestlon. after the desirable
attenuation has been attained. ' is how
to bs clothed in order to correctly ex
press the fashionable silhouette; how to
reduce th under-garmenting to the
least possible bulk in order that flowing
outer fabrics may cling 'artistically
without Interfering lumps and humps
beneath.' , v -
I'eUicoats for some time have been
banished from the fashionable Ameri
can woman's toilette, but ,now the
l-eneh woman has aone her one better,
f"r. be a process of limine tlnn.1 she has .
1 .rnuiiit Iim" garrmnt down to of
'iime. hetiide her ehoes and stockings
J iNi two! 1 '
una cf th'esa, two garments la com :
Hussars
Been Borrowed
This Dashing '
Little Shako.
Pi?r Htt A Qreatloo That la Simply StaggerU52-Fourteea Feet in Circumference.
THE FOUR-DRESSES-ALL-IN-ONE-GOWN.
. I Gown with overskirt draped 00 one hip, the long ehda
of the overskirt. descending to the ground and .ending ia
tassels. .2 The overskirt is still draped on the hip, but
on the opposite side is lifted to the shoulder and held
.there by a metallic ornament 3 The overskirt la lifted
, on to both shcal&rs, falling in graceful folds across the
bust end down below the waist in front In the hack It
ftangs almost to the floor.' 4 This very varied overskirt
.takes the form of a Ion enveloping cloak- It hangs
straight in front and in the back, with slight folds from
each shoulder. ' . 'V
I
N.1