TIIE ; OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY . , KOirKlNG. SEPTEMBER 20. J 9U3
A
smmrn
1
T
3
i
w -
v
y -
aw
ay
- '? '1 . .A
: .' ,
' 7 . .
J: Jlfl
r
IS
mi
Soft striped silk Directoire gown, with
I satin scarf, runhing overjshoulders.; Model
by Chary.. , ''Photo by MmneV
A
J L 11111 II VI I -l
lit . rxj i i
A
i or
r
Ml
r-
V
MY
i Mt r . . r nasi i '
1
. Robe by Barroin; yoke and leeve of
' Vhotrt b ManT
S 'II
' 11
II-
- . Exquisite gown by DrecolJ, with heary
.hand embroidery. , ty Rtu,iiBgeA
MM v
rs-i"
7,
T1
Li,"!!
4
V 1
A n
It 'i
Hi i "V 'M
r r...
ill ? -J
IV. -f
V
Directoire gown, by Chary, with lone
slewcs and satin trimmings. by MibA
j. . .
4
Cown by Ney goeurs. of crepe de chine
and mousseline-
- Photo by MtnitcL
i -
V -
.14 " r
I if
ir
J
Back and front of a Directoire gown by
Maison Margaine-Lacroix.' - Khaki colored
meteor crepe, with y6ke and sleeves of tulle
in the same shade.il" 7,'- -r
PSoo by SCTllinjer.
1
4
JLA,
1
e"7 A
IK
V
i rt III
Cown by Ney Soeurs, of tweked mous
se tine, with sash fastening at the side.
' P-gto hf Wwat ;
Cown of mirage silk, by Piquing dosefy
draped to the figure. -y,'
NOT for many years has a preTailicg style
' allowed of such artistic treatment. The
'lines of the adopted directoire are
simple and the materials are graceful
and supple, while the quaint nes of an old style
ia modem environment has a fascination
sot to be denied.
Yet, -while the frowns are all close-fitting
and drooping as to lines, they none of them
have the exaggerated feature which hare made
the mere mention of the directoire a matter for
moral debate, With erery one of the gowns
pctticoata may be worn, if preferred to the
newjy deigned underwear. The extreme docol
Jte nrpcarsnce is not soticeabk in any of
tier.' -.
Ttt it Irirf-f a feelicf of a tonishzacct
...
to meet on the Kue de la Taix a gorgeously
gowned woman walking in a costume of
satin, the girdle high tinder her anna,' the
deep, square decollete filled in with tulle or lace.
The fashion certainly seems more suitable for .
the house than the street, but there is little
doubt that time will bring so many- such cos- "
tumes on parade that the sight will oeaae to be
remarkable.
There are, bowerer, many women who as
yet hare not become reconciled to the latest de-
cree of fefthion, and atrume with such a eoetvme
be it of tatin.' chiffon or cloth a directoire
jacket which may, or may not, match the gown
la material- or color. y
, The diatisfnithirg fextgrea ci the directoire
period, were the high waist line,.longand scanty
' ekirts, high collar, long, tight-fitting sleeve, large
revere and long coats. All of these points have
been carefully reproduced for the women of
1908. '
A costume of the liaison Margaine-Lacroix -is
of khaki colored meteor crepe, tight-fitting, ,
supple and graceful, with yoke and sleeves! of
. tulle in the same shade. " .
Ney Soeurs have designed a gown of tucked .
moosaeline of which the aash ia a very distine
tive feature. The material is in' a shade of
paleet rose ; the girdle is of pale rose ribbon
H
i i -
,'k.
j-
.4
- Directoire gown silk, with broad satin
tripes, high waist and deep square decollete
fined in With tulle. Wimo br Mwt
A lovely embroidered afternoon gown,
by Paquin in the new silk and wool ttaS, -
idealized has made a gown of mirage silk which
swathes the . figure, while another . Paquin crea
tion is an embroidered f rod. for afternoon. The
frock ia made of .sew material half silk, half
pawed once around the waist, caught seen rely wool. It is cat on the empire style; 'in fact, it
in the center of the back, brought round again
to the front, and the end are tied in -a loose
bow over the left knee. What a charming cos
tume for a debutante!
Drecoll has made an exquisite gown of black
satin.' heavy with embroidery. This ia one of
the handsomest . drees of its kind and show
what marvel may be accomplished by a -real
artist. '
Xla liaison Tasula aost ijaotuv-xaott
of them and yet keep' all lier iignity. They
would ' even give the . royal look that fnany ,
silver-headed women so long for. It would
take a knowledge of the couturier's art 'to ar
range the gowns so that they would be becora
ing to stouter figures, but with a general idea
of drapery any effect may beeasily obtained. 1
The French artists, whenthey make gowna
for large figures, drape the material less tightly,
while they accentuate every line of length that
the model possesses. ' In this way the figure
still looks somewhat tall and slim no matter
bears some resemblance to a neglige, though it
is really one' of the latest conceptions for the
, coming season.
The robe by Barroin illustrates the pre
vailing atria of voir and alevea of tulle: while
Chary, in 'one of his models, exploits the new - how stout and dumpy it may reslly be. "
shoulder scarf.
These gowns are all particularly adapted
.for young women, a peculiarity of the present
stllel hat au, elder Komaa xuicht wear aaj cue
Every one cannot expect to have model
figure, but each may know enough of the art
of dressmaking to so order her clothes that she
may look her rery beet in them.