' ' 4 ' '
'THE ' OREGON DAILY JOURNAL. PORTLAND. SATURDAY EVENING. SEPTEMBER 12. 1008
L'.Ua1, ii. j-
HJtJ T.
m
uwmmi
enrded meteor. allk Skirt with a green
Ilk coat, whb'h had a narrow black eat-
In roll collar and nr lius piara aann
buttons on each aid of the front and
on the sleeve. Th aklrt til trimmed
with coara net.-over which waa aarnea
a heavy conventional aaign aon witn
whit rop silk.
ltlcht Droit y are som ef tba llttla
Ilk coat a a J a, Watlaau. shown among
th rnnt Pari a Importation. They ar
often trimmed 'With handaom lac of
ar&llnnna and aomatlmaa with rar am
broideries. 811k coal a In tha ton of
tha aklrt ara mora
ones Ilka tha
to ha worn for
caalona. Thaaa ooata ara usually loose
and made In odd styles; In Imitation of
fiiit aiviea or za or mora years aao.
Tha dlreotolr atyla prevails prlnel
pally In tha coats of tha broadcloth
aulta. Tha malnrltv of tham ahow tha
ahnrt-walsted affect, whlob la attained
either lv cut or by trlmmlnga. Tha
shoulders ara narrower than formerly,
tha sleeves ara amaller and put Into tha
run
of collar bonea may ta used la vrtl
walata. ; , .
Woman' whn make their ow under
doming ara roiiowlng the kimono rat
tera lm in making night dronaea. They
us tha entire width of the material
ror na aioevea and cut the nerk auuare.
Tha neck and aleevea ere edged with
lace, aiui u aaairea tna assign uaea for
a coraet cover may be ' embroidered
across tha front ot tha sown. Tha
Pown may Da aiven an empire effect by
unnlng band of two-tmh twitbroldory
nr ued than ara cloth d'" 1?l J.Sl ..I.'U1 blow th!
aklrt, eapeclaliy In suits f"nbo'vyith wld ribbon run through
r 'anything llki dra c. tbli affect ia charming.
v H at . vr ,
Runaway Matches).
P only glrfa could be taught to the
folly of runaway marrlaga what a
blessing It would be.
Thar la aJwaya something wrong
about tha lore affair that ha .to be
I
THE FALL COSTUME.
A SnnnBeww-Baaaiw. , : , ,
Trotteur Oostumo and Trailing
Skirts The Rainy Pay Cot
, tarn a Necessity.
'1
all that embroidery," aha said at last.
In the tone of an overworked martyr.
"I don"t find time," aald the buey
maiden; "I only take rare not to loee
any. ,-I am aura you haven't bean able
to talk a bit more than 1 have, but J
hare nearly finlahed thla waist, and
isn't It prttyT",
It waa a "creation," and tha other
girl aald so frankly, though aha added,
a little .enviously:
' "1 wish I could afford materia like
that, but I always have to buy my
walata ready-mada. I rrever learned to
it and I am ao busy all day that I
haven't time to try. It looks easy,
tboujrn.
"I try to take It easy and never feel
hurried. I think the reason ao many
people get nervous when they sew la
because they try to do a great deal In
a short time. I bought these goods at
W'TETth approach oX fall every
woman Is Interested In the tai-
lor-made costume. During the
' summer she can be contented
, with home-made fluffy affairs,
with one good suit for church and the
occasional call, but with the turning of
tha autumn leaves comes the turn of
thought toward frocks built on more se
ver lines, and accentuated by the touch
of tha designer.
This season, mora than ever before,
' tha line is sharply drawn between th
walking suit and the tailor-mad two-
pieca costume. The latter has the long
coat In th ' modified dlrectolra mode,
t and a long ens wa thing skirt. It is per
; Imp not necessary to remark that the
! trailing skirts are not to be worn while
I walking In fho streets. Whatever1 else
! they may lack Women have at last com
to realise that on cannot be a lady
t without being clean, and that trailing
pklrta, sweeping up filth and microbes
: from th sidewalks and street crossings
; cannot for m moment bt tolerated by
the neat woman. " ,
Th trotteur oostum which alone is
suitable to wear In the streets In the
morning, or on a shopping rip, still
how the pleated skirt, varied some
vhat by the border design - instead of
in too-iaminar loia or tne same good a.
The akirt neatly clears the ground. The
th pointed effect mors often than the M
revera, a reflection from th dlreotolre
jperioa, are on own on some. Buttons
are much In evidence all kinds of. but-
, tons. MetaL crochet, enameled, lewel
studded, and what not. For the medium
priced suit th button of self-material
with neat simple ring is sill In favor.
Before th winter rains begin It be-
jiooves every woman to set in order one
Bkirt to be used exclusively during the
wet season.' We. of this nart of th
country have to be a law unto ourselves I Early Fall Shirt Waist of Printed
FlanneL Th.o Shaped Fronts Are
Outlined Wltfc Black Silk and
Fastened With Black Loops and
Buttons.
; in this particular. It does not greatly
concern us If the fair dames of New
J. port who need never set foot upon wot
j.vemeni noat aDout in clinging long
f trailed draperies of satin and light eol-
; orea Droaaoioin. xnat is .tneir ariair.
But the woman of th north Paclf la
, coast who must be out in the steady, la midsummer sale. It has been ezpen-
; continuous rains r neas must nave imve, pui was marKea a tnlrd orr.
? a ahort skirted oostume, and either high 1 Th embroidery pattern I bought at
coots or tan, with,, tan gloves to match, I pattern connter and transferred
, or gaiters matching the skirt, to pro-1 myself, so that waa not very expensive,
j teet her ankles from dampness and mud. ITha ball ,of embroidery floss was only
' una rainy any- costume is an absolute! xv cents, ana ins waist 4 cut ly a pat
1 necessity In this climate, so Jet us pre-Ifsm that I'had used one before, mere-
. i'r in iima. ana do aensioiy ana suit-11' uimg i m sieevea. i nave oeen
s- aolr dressed, when tne rains commence. I worjng on the embroidery whenever
f . xnere is nothing unwholesome nornaa a.:isw minutes' time, and now you
vexatious about rata, if one Is only pre-1"1, here- at the 'triumphant moment of
pared for It. The bright complexions I IlnlsalD 11 hBJt oost me less than a
end sparkling eyes of the native daugh- I dollar, and you eould not buy one with
; ters of' Oregon and Washington attest I tne same amount of work on it for sev
thls fact I era! dollars. That's my way of mak-
i A brtsk walk In a soft fresh rain Isl,n money." and she nodded her well
-worth 20 steamlngs and massaalnas and I carea lor neaa triumphantly.
beauty doctorlnga But one must be I t)hl I know you are a perfect gen
properly dressed to enjoy It and to gtius at making something out of no-
, iii Dmucm necia. Ana tne rirstltning. uo snow m some of th things
! requisite ia the rainy day costume. I you hav made for school," and th
Suitability is th key not of good I other girl was so honest In her admtr
dressing, anyway.- . latlon that the ingenious girl saw she
j - . - i- i meant no orrense m her rather sweep'
. . ' ? H H t I lag statement of the material used.
n ci. i- I "I .have only very slmpl things, as
How She Managed. lyou know, but I am rather proud of
THE s'rl who is going away to school my clla Buu- M sister aald 1 could
this Winter waa varv buav - Th ftVe,ller ,,d b,ack cloth lf 1 could us
inia winter was very busy. Th it u had been very handsome years
girl who never baa time to sew or ago, but had worn a little brown, waa
. mane her own pretty waists looked at 1 ul "l lTi ana naa some snags, not
.her enviously a her needl. f lew In and Ir-'t. TheS I YVo'uU
out Of th pretty mercerised cotton rep clean It and see how itjooked. The ma-
.that looked as dainty as linen and wasJur,al came out so satiny and fine I
not balf aa exnanslve looncluded to work with It a little and
- V -ff v v ,'. whether It was worth taking more
vvj i. tAww rva uuu: unu.iDriiuni over, x ruiea me SKirt closely,
THE MOTHERS' CORNER
Jfnrgery Hints
asw EEP a pad of antiseptic cotton In
: If baby's basket and us a wee
: IV- screw of ' it both night and
' morning to cleans th delicate
i' ears and nostrils with. These
scrapa of cotton wool should bs burned
at one after use. and are far nicer for
in purpose tnan a piece oi rag or iian
tiet Kemember that baby's nose and
ears require daily care to aeep mem
really clean and nice.
Fruit for children Find out Just
what kind cf fruit your little folk can
safely eat, ana Dan is n an omers irom
the mean. Borne children cannot dtgeat
strawberries, and a severe attack of
rash may foKow the eating of this
I rait. Raw atone fruit U not whole
some for young children.- Plums and
, such fruit are far better cooked than
raw, as there is usually a tendency to
their being either under or over ripe
wnen piacea on ine maraei.
Bummer hives Hives, as the large,
red, Irritating spots that some children
suffer from in summer are called, arise
as a ruie rrom a aisomered stomach.
They require both Internal and external
remedies. They best medicine is a dose
of castor oil. the quantity, of course,
to depend on the ag of the child.
HA thing with water to which bicarbon
ate of soda has been added la one of
th best meaps of allaying the Intense
Irritation. Constant and freqnent ap
plications of good cold cream will also
sooth) wonderfully.
- - Mother and Child,
Cot a drees shield in two plecea. bind
the raw edges and tack under a baby's
fancy bib. It will absorb the moisture
and keep the little dress from getting
damp.
When buying hose for children, says a
muiner. aiwava uuv mem ionv. in whftn
the knee becomes worn you can cut the
stocking- off enouah to set all the worn
part out and stitch the two pieces to
gether again on machine. The seam
will not be noticeable anrl look murh
better than such large piacea darned.
A charmina little one-nlec dreaa Tor
baby boy was fashioned of white linen
and embroidered In s? design of cher
ries and leaves hlahlv conventionaldHd
It was not only unique, but very pleas
ing and of unfailing Interest to the
small man. wno clamored ror the tim,.
honored story of Oeorge and the cher-ry-tre
every time he donned thla nu.
tleular eoaturaa. The design was
worked, of course. In all white, while
French embroidery stitch and button
hole stitch, were combined with excel
lent effect..
used the jacket for a fitted
style waiat without sleeves,,
were hopelessly out. und-m
wuuiu lf, wurin UTing, j( - t-nmo mini. v. mnA .
from th rivora arnnl I hlaslr wll I ver"' na 1
pressea, too. l bad left the lower edge
unfinished as It was too short after I
had cut A)ff the worn And torn part.
It was so nrettv., however, that I saw
my oesi Hunaay-go-to-meeting areas in
It, so I bought four yards of taffeta.
ins new sort rinisned kind, and made a
olrcular ruffle for the bottom which I
cut off at the knee. I made bands of
the cloth thus saved snd stitched them
on the ruffle. With a few bands of taf
feta on the waist, and a soft arlrdle of
it. i naa a areas that I can wear any
where and feel nice In It, too."
"I should say you have," said the
otaer, deeply Impressed. "What waist
win you wear under It T
"That's a Joke. too. I used a black
net shawl that had been my grand
mother's and made a plain waist of it
with a high white ruche at the neck.
My mother said It was sacrilege, but I
look at grandmother's net and admire
their more recent ancestor s Ingenuity
at tne same time.
Well, I am sure I envy you having
the time, to do so many things," said
the martyr to old Father Time." but
I don t see when and where you get It.
You go as much as I do and have as
many duties. Tell me how you man
age."
"I will tell vnu a little story that -ou
can apply for yourself. When mother
went to riot springs ror tne rnevi
matlsni I went with her and we took
May. mv little- five-year-old sister.
One day May was sitting In the cooling
f arlor, where all the women in the ho
el were sitting In their bathrobes, cool
ing off before d reusing- for dinner.
They were talking of the way the days
fairly ran away, and one of them said.
'I just can' get anything done,' when
May pined up her baby voice and said,
'I'll tell you how to get It don. Just
get at It!' Truly, I believe that's the
secret of success Just get at It and
then keep at it!"
st st t
Pads and Fashions.
EW TORK, Sept. 11. The idyllic
days of summer, with their ram
bles in the woods, their delightful
sailing and rowing trips, their tennis
contests, automobile rides and hotel
veranda flirtations are a thing of the
past and more serious matters occupy
th attention of the women. Fall has
brought new styles and fashions in
everything pertaining to a woman's
equipment and the thoughts of the pru
dent woman rim toward costumes of
more substantial and warmer materials.
The resumption of social functions In
the form of receptions, card parties, teas
and similar occasions, requires that at
tention be given to dresses suitable for
such functions. Those women whose
daughters are . old enough to attend
high school or . college are confronted
with an additional task, of selecting
appropriate and becoming apparel for
tne coming graduates. To the woman
with unlimited means these difficulties i
are not particularly perplexing. She can
afford to let her dressmaker do the
worrying. But, owing to the unsettled
financial situation, many women, who
formerly gave their dressmaker carte
blanche, are compelled to make careful
estimates of the cost before planning
the purchase of the fall outfit for them
selves and their daughters.
niiaa wins I iiiii... r wiwi i . , -
nnn whatever. Tha front . whether pt ft Sort from th girl's Parents.
slngl or double-breasted, with or with. I But so often a foolish llttl girl Is
mit a waletooat. are cut off sqtiarly at much tnor ready to bellsv In th man
wniaylllllV- vr ll-'I'Q - S I in I U1T BWSiJ I w a
from It Into sides and back that ara mam on,y "" lor montn tnan
r slashed at Intervals. I ints motner wno nas watched over her
collar prevails, but not I ...
ly the sharp-pointed tpyloal re- ooia. wiin a roousn iaea or ro-
HINTS FOR HOUSEKEEPERS ;
I
. . .--. rrom it into sines
. f?,l .h "lthep points or s
It- .h.V H The Incroyabl colli
'wih?5Ji Invariably the aharr
Two Waeh-Day Ideas,
HAVE found th following method
a great sconomliar of time. On
Ironing day I plain tha clothes In
two pile. Thos that need mend
Ing In a pll by themselves on on
sld of th elothea-bara and air of ths
others. by themselves. When th iron
ing Is finished I can out away thos
fiot requiring any mending without hav
ng to sort them again. I find it saves
many minutes.
Wash dav la bound, to dlsclos grass
stains, lara or - suihlL on children i
draul. which. In aoma Aifti.
eult of removal. A friend told ma a
way an naa aiseoversa that waa al
ways succesaful, Befor wetting she
aiwaya ruonea tn atain with com mo a
molaaaea then waahed th usual wav.
Delicate shades of colored rood can ha
handled In this way with no danger of
laaing. jj,
-v .
1 About the lTome.
often there is a aash of black mane, ane uaiens 10 nia smootn plead- Isfrald ot accidents when going down
I 'ng and plunge headlong Into , tnstrl- th atepa, hav th last step ahltened.
; . ' , so tnat you win casuv Know wnen you
Matrimony mor than i anything sla ar at th bottom. Tou can se this
In th world needa thought and deUbera- step plainly, vsn In a 'dim light, ,
.IV,,, wi.u ,11V WIIU VH'ro lTf . il I' il
thought tO It than aha WOUld to buvlna-l TrnKIaaehat Pi'laala i.raan nan Ka t,mA
""w Tor maaina verr rrectiva curtains.
For on moment's impetuosity she (Turn a thraa-lnch hem on tha rlht a Ma
. v. . ..i 1 1 ... i -m r r . - I - . -
.a w, iih aiuK a, jiiaiioia vi rt na oasts on a two ana on nair men
rE.7. u w w. " ' ' , . . band of goldenrod yellow linen so that
Kven should ah be able to extricate una ai iui th, n tk.
..... .... . ' . ..... u. ,.ln,, , . im i una, ut in uges or in linen raw
the expense of th Indignity and notorl-1 and huttonhol an . Knih with
ty of th divorc court. coarse brow. allk. Near th inner edge
If a man la enough in lov with voulnf tha curtain nntiin i, atama T
to want to marry you h Is npugh in brown, going up from th band of yel
lov to woo and Win you in tha han. 1 1 ml nn .ham -ik .
orable, prescribed wsy. yellow flower. Buttonholed around with
Ths minute ha counsels vmi to h-iMinliha, kma, i.k . ..i.
W. - r I . - " . . . . W.I.VI J . U.I ,
s attentlona a secret from vour nat. rut vtaba, ii.nu .,. . Jt
e,ntl.Uu.th n,nut 0" yu to begin to the window oh which buttonhole simply
nnurit him. v. -a
- ia, iini iuw ajaiiiu m i iiimi.
A young, unsophisticated rlrl haa no I , ....
means of learnlnar much anout a nin'i I . .. . . . I
life and character nor of Judalna; him V lW th flCKIe-BIaker. "
properly, no matter whst she may know. To Presrv Catsup On th top of
lw leniBni, mam may not ncq doiii oi caiaup or onm sauce pour
".r'L1"" TOUUn. iwo laotespoonruis ot taM sweet oil
If her parents seriously object to a Before using pour off oil.
man She at leaat Should wait until tholr I India RelTahWrva-alva Urn flna in.
uujct,-uuii. ara verinea or louna o d i maioea peeiea; twelve our apples
S-oundlesa. it stands to reason that I peeled; seven small onions, one red pep
T w'tn the,r superior knowledge of per, one cup raisins, salt to taste, chop
inn wui ill pnuuia anow mora or nnmin i an tosreiner- ani nna Aiiart vma-a Ana
nature man an. '
turn
u rr t-- r a II t t-V It
amm
uwi mil
Ik -ihm:A
wster to cover vegetables. Lt stand
over right. Drain In morning. JUat
pn quurt vinegar with two tablespoon
fuls mustard until U holla put in vege
tables, boll II minutes; bottle and seaL
-
The Flrrlcss Cooker.
"This Is th wsy a woman with on of
in nraieas couxers prepare roast
chicken: Blis prvparea tha bird as for
ordinary roasting . rubbing salt over th
outalde. and puts it Into th not with
th gibiata and an -onion cut into four
Piece a. and covVra.lt with hot m
and bolls for 20 minutes. Then shs
piacrs in nuiiing aeina into tne cooker,
pound sugar. Boll ons hour and put
into glass jars ana seat ugni.
Red and -. Whit Pickle. Select one
large or two amall heads of cauliflower,
break Into bits. To this add one half
pint small onions, two red peppers. Dis
solve on quarter pint salt in sufficient
tt K K
Preserving the Teeth.
MORE people loss their teeth from
neglecting thorough cleansing
mn xrom any omer cause, it .., ,v,.. i i-a
,i, ,i.u w w aepi in guoa conai- Maith a pair of scissors. Fut ail tna ln
tlon they -should be cleaned after everv aredlents on to boll slowly, stirring con-
Ha anfood1Xbte,rr '"It t0 ?hnmarmari.Sn.1 7
It Is a good plan to rlnss th mouth of plnd ftni other particles of fruit ars
wiin a, m no sait in waier morning ana I transparent, neai ugni in a man jars,
evening. This helps to keen the Tims Made of yellow tomatoes th marmalade
healthy, and healthy gums, as a rule, nBul"u- ,
mean healthy teeth. - - " ' .
The proper way to clean the toeth is c-, 'afiji rHAlaa
not from side to side, aa most neraoXa Sweet tickles.
Imagine, but up and down. The upper T WO dosen small cucumbers, two
iboih Diiuuiu m ui usim irum tne vuma n ...iimnn... tars, ah.mi
thrmiTutm vt M. ot small whit onions, six green
tention should be given to the back or peppers (better yet. three green and
Inside of the teeth, aa It Is there that .h..- .. at an ,.r-a nr
foreign substances are most apt to ac- . J.. ..
cumulate. I green tomatoes, cut me vegetaoiea into
A niece of dental floss should alwavs inch nieces, excepting the cauliflower.
be kept at hand for removing any sub- which should be divided Into flowerets.
stance which may hav become lodged T . . . . ; . . ,ol, .,
between the teeth' It can be bought of L1 lh vegetables stand in salt water
any druggist Th tooth brush should over night, and, after scalding them up
not be hard; stiff bristles are apt to In - the morning, strain them. Then
scratch the enamel and injur th tooth prepare the following sauce: To two
powder at every cleansing one or quarts of vinegar And four cupfuls of
twice a aay is quite oiten enougn. At sugar, rour teaspooniuia oi ceiery seeu,
quickly closes It and leaves It for af
leaat three hours At ths end of that
tlm ah tskes out th chicken, puts It'
Into a roasting pan, covers It with but
ter and place It la th oven to brown.
Meanwhile ah makna tha aun. a,i,i.
th liquor In th pot,' mincing th gib
lets and turning them Into it. If ths
bird Is not a young one,-at least four
hours will be needed snd sa much mm-a
time mav be given as Is convenient. An.
fit ha maana t tha a a n. m ,A -.
ths chicken thnroua-hlv In a frvln, nan
Bt first and then turn it and the con
tents of th pan Into tha pot to be
rlaoed In th cooker with water enough
O cover, boll for 20 minutes and nut .
Into th cooker. Tha rAault .wlll ha a
dellclously brown roast. Boms cooks
thicken tn sauce at thla time.
Carrot Croquettes. . '
Wash and scrane tha carrot a and
cook themln boiling salted water until
tender. Drain, mah, add one large
tablesnoon of softened butter. Minn
with pepper and salt and bind with the '
beaten yolk of egg. When cold, form
Into uroauettea. riln In beaten as-ar. mil
In crumbs, let stand on or more hours
and fry In deep hot fat.
a
Huckleberry Cake.
Beat to a Haht cream one cun hf but.
ter and two. cups of sugar, add th
beaten yolks of five eggs, one feaspoon
of grated nutmeg, on teaspoon; of cin
namon, on oup of sweet milk and three
cups of flour, with heaping teaapoonful
Of baking powder. - Beat , thoroughly,
fold in th stiffly beaten whites of the
eggs, and, last of all. add carefully one
quart of huckleberries thickly dredged
with flour. Bake, in a moderate oven.
lUisui Pie.
Boil one pound of seeded raisins In
Just enough water to cover for an hour.
Then add one cup sugar, two heaping
tablespoons flour and the lulca and
juak with
grated rind of one lemon.
two crusts.
Judging from present indications the
prevailing style of clinging styles in
drasses will continue In favor during
the fall, and possibly the winter. At
least, the fall samples sent from Paris
support mat theory. Dlreetolre and
princess styles are displayed and some
dresses ingeniously combine both styles
with pleasing result. Some of the hand-
somest gowns imported from Paris are
trimmed at he bottom with a broad
band of lace or embroidery. In a
general way, it may be said that laces
and embroideries will continue In favor
for the coming season and the skillful
woman will have ample opportunity tn
oa to me neauty or her costume by
the tactful employment of her own
handiwork In the form of insertions
or embroidered bands and panels.
vne or tne Parisian samples shows a
novel coat with a white chiffon hronrt-
cloth gown. It is of half-length, seml
tted and single-breasted. The bodv
;art of the coat, the sides and back to
he hip's length, and fops of the long
leeves are of cloth. The rest of the
is of ivory-colored moire, which
Electric Blue Cloth Frock With Per
sian Printed Velvet Used for the
Small Yoke, Sleeves and Insets
of Skirt and Girdle. Skirt Seams
Are Strapped With Bands of the
Same Material. Persian Buttons
Are Used.
or self-colored satin with fringed ends.
In many cases an attached satin neck
tie is tied in one loop and two ends
beneath the chin.
forms the entire front and tails below
me ciotn lo tne Knees. K ile rnr fin.
lshes the linen between the cloth and
the silk and frogs decorate the front
The lower part of the long, clinging
Bkirt Is trimmed with a zigzag band
of the same silk.
When crowded for room in apart
ments a convenient irranr,mnt s
a child's bed can b made bv faklnr an
ordinary box, about forty-five lrea In
lengin. mirty in wiatn, and tTJateen
iiinoa in orpin, r-iare casters at cor
lera, attach lid with hinrea. Covr en
tire box with bnrlan or cretSnnn r,ai.
ding top and - plaiting goods around
aides. Lin with pretty chlntx. Make
mattressea to fit Inside of box which
when opened with lid tied back with
bow ribbon, la attractive and when
losed will serv aa a orettv and eon.
venleat divan tn any room. i
Tiio ha!f-prlncess, half-directolre
gown, already mentioned. Is, perhaps,
tne mon ordinal novelty shown this
season. It Is one of the best style
shown for some time, for It follows
almost entirely the lines of the natural
waist back and front, and this Is ex-
auy wnat women have been seeking.
All aui h gowns have tight skirts with
clinging lines and coats that follow
them closely In outline, the entire robe
having the appearance of being made
from too little material. Many fash
ionable women In Paris wear such
dresses without petticoats, satin knick
erbockers of the same color being used
by them aa an undergarment. Women
who do not pretend to belong to the
ultra fashionable set, use petticoats I
made of oft irk. but with flounces
inat are lar from rull and not to any
dt-gree bouffant. One of the best ex
amples of the closely fitting underskirt
has a silk jersey top that clings to
the kneea. where it Is finished with
a deep flounce of soft satin.
Eve's Daughter
Suit coats made of the plain material
of the skirt, but given a contrasting ef
fect by al lover braiding may also . be
mentioned among the season's Innova
tions. These coats are extremely smart
ror a costume in which It is desirable
to produce an elaborate effect. Some
of these Jackets, instead of being braid'
ed all over, have long, tight-fitting
sleeves or Japanese shaped ones while
the rest of the coat Is plain. Bright
colored satins and silks braided all over
with soutache make up right handsorfle
separata eoars mat may off' worn wrtn
more than one gown. In some teases
the edge of the plain satin coat is
trimmed with shirred puffs, which look
exceptionally well with cutaway coats
ana cross-over waistcoats or sort sua.
It is one of those unaccountable vag
aries of fashion that all summer, dur
ing th hot weather the stiff and close-
ntting conars naa to te worn to be in
I style, while now. that the weather is
cool, these abominable chokers are go
ing. out of style and more comfortable
and decidedly more becoming collars of
the Dutch or Puritan pattern are worn.
From Paris It Is reported tbat neck
ruches, attached to tall stocks, are ever
Increasing In width. They do not stand
up In the usual fashion, but spread out
in their generous width about the chin.
In the majority of cases the material Is
laid in excessively rine plaits. Others.
however, are tightly gathered. Crepe
usae, net, iaea, oatist wun lace edges,
chiffon and pineapple cloth are so used
for th low neck ruche. Tha ruche wid
ens as th earl Ine Is approached. The
Pierrot ruche is also used extenslvelr
and Is particularly becoming to soma
young races, a parisian collarette has
a stock proper of batiste, shaped and
laid In soft folds and attached to It a
hemstitched frill of batiste. Around th
base of the stock, as a finish, la drawn
scarr or tarieta. tne ends stmoly
r
other times use plain tepid water.
If these simple hints are faithfully at
tended to there will be less toothache
and fewer dentists' bills to pay. It
would be wise, however, to Consult a
dentist at regular Intervals Snd have
the tiniest cavities immediately at
tended to, and so save losing the entire
tootn. a new tootn win cost great
deal more than a small filling.
Acids of all-kinds will tend to soften
the teeth and cause their decay.
Good Salmon Recipes.
CAN OP SALMON, or round of fresh
salmon, flaked; i eggs, 6 table
spoons milk or cream, M teaspoon
of salt, cayenne pepper to taste, 1 table
spoon of butter and chopped parsley.
Beat eggs slightly, add the milk or
cream, pepper and salt. Put butter In
saucepan, when hot add the eggs and
other Ingredients. When they begin to
thicken add the salmon, before taking
from fire sprinkle with parsley. Gar
nish with toast points and serva hot.
one cupful of mustard and half an ounce
or turmeric, mix an togeiner careiuuy
so that no lumps will form, then pour
over the strained pickles and bring them
to tha boiling point
H
Sweet Pickled Peaches.
strips, one-half cup of molasses, two
egga, one-half cup milk, two cups of
flour, one-half teaspoon of soda, one
teaspoon of cinnamon, one-half teaspoon
of allspice, one-fourth teaspoon mace,
one-fourth teaspoon clove, one-half tea
spoon of lemon extract.- .
Cantaloupe Spilt.
MADE like banana split Chill canta
loupes, cut In halves lengthwise,
scrap seeds away, fill hollow
with vanilla Ice cream. Place halves
firmly together and lay on Ice to freeze.
When ready to serv run silver knife
between the halves which separates the
fruit, also slicing the cream evenly over
each half. Sprinkle chonned nuts over.
also preserved berries, pineapples or any
crusneq. rruit or tutti xrutti preserve.
Marshmallow Pudding.
NB POUND of English walnuts
chopped, one pound of marshmel
lows cut in small pieces. Mix with
ons scant pint of cream. Let set in a
cool place over night afd sprinkle pow
dered sugar- over top before serving. .
0
The Dear Old Davs.
IGHT pounds of pecches. thre and. Stormi ln tha dark adhe daytime-
one nair pounas oi orown sugar, r ierce tang , me wratn ana tne roa;
one ounc of atlck cinnamon, little Bu let .us gO(baek to Life'sMaytime
Aim uirmu in mo micai ui vrua.
Atlanta Constitution.
Salmon fish balls Two cups aalmon
1 cup mashed potatoes. H cun drawn
butter, pinch of pepper and M. teaspoon
of salt. Work the potatoes ln with tl4
salmon and moisten witn tns arawn nut
ter until it is sort enough to mold and
will keep Its shape. Roll the balls in
flour and fry quickly In lard or cooking
oil till a golden brown. Take from fat
as soon as a one ana lay in a sieve tu
drain. Berre not.
Salmon omelet Thre eggs, 1 level
tablespoons of cream of milk, S pinches
of paprika. H teaspoon, scant, or salt,
I cup minced salmon. r Mix tn trdlnry-
zed bowl the volks or eggs, cream
salt, pepper and cup of salmon. Fold
in th stiffly beaten whites of eggs.
Hav a hot, well-buttered omelet pan
and pour in th mixture. Spread t
evenly over the pan and allow it to cook.
Shake in the pan gently to prevent
burning. When brown on the under sld
place it In oven a moment to dry on top.
Remove to platter and sprinkle over th
top the remaining salmon snd garnish
with lettuc leave. Serve Immediately.
H ft
should be fair to took upon. No unsljhtiy blemishes should
mar the natural beauty of her face and her checks should
have a healthy, delicate tinge of color.
, fiagan's
Magnolia Balm
Imparts the bloom of youth to faded cheeks and does It
Instantly. No dostnr with medicine, do Ion course of
treatment, only a moment required to apply this peerless
beautifier. -
Made In two colorsPi K and WHITE. '
Price 75 cents for lar. bottle at your drurrtsl ' Sample
free.
IT' X N A-VTT iCTTalWO CO. u govt t a Si . nartnrrVT XV
-Try. .. . ,sj
I
B
1
I
crossed and left to haner In Irrea-ula
length. A knot Is tied several inches
irom in ena.
' FLORENCE FAIRBANKS.
The walking suit Is Indispensable In R k It
every woman who cannot afford to do
SlI her traveling In town In nar nwn Tn th RMrlna ItIAIH
i;Mrt cul7" wh 1. ynTrlX.AW??JTr llm sewing room
about In fair or foul weather, most be i I Ktt sewing table and fasten
provided with one of these useful, lf not I screw hooks on the under side. To
IrSi . Lu"r'.v. ornamental coatumea. The thahooks can b attached baas con.
tatnlng patterhs, thread and numerous
sewing articles.
walking skirts 0f th mpia and ser
viceable tailored miita will be somewhat
shorter this fall than formerly. Another
radical point of difference Is that skirts
sr mad tighter notwithstanding the
l.aring effect about tha fet Th
re mad ao rllnclng about the hips
,at front and back and aides, tbat. so far
aa the knea. they re-embl th habit
skirt of 10 or 1? jesra ago. This change
Is undoubtedly due to the Influence of
-neaiu as in or I M recto Ire fame and
Is really onlr a modification of it.
Although from 11 to ;i anri ara
for walking akrta of almr.1, a.H, in.
tended for street wear, aiut tha tr.
fashion is markedly toward that typ.
there are still tnnay plaited aklrt to b
seen tn th exhibit. The' platted .
rct are nsuailr la tha niiii, atrfa
fold and thr Is every probabtlitv tbat
'be atyle will aurvlr la a limited war.
Oats of nearly rry kind and for
any wear are vBwhat )oigr thla year
than f-iniei1y Trier e ar. wf rainui
cm abort.)? fret aivd vm extra miy
kBf fnT afOft rvn t tn, nm,Kil anlfla
bt t mlnlmsm trartra Wif-th f -r tf.e
PTOlar walking mat la 1 Inrhea, a
Sqrat roaey rlnfH srd Ma-k ta a
At raerf arr ia I f.iii .1, lf.:..t.;,l
Th laat recruit to th embroidered
"ahlrf" la the monogram which many
glriB are placing on th left sleeve.
Though -thla may atsiu to savor some
what of the day when gentlemen went
around with heraldic devlcea on their
jerkins, tn style Ja meeting with in
KIIUl IBTUr.
Braid and Up vhould b first back
mrnea wn in, ngnt aid of tb goods,
rloa to th edge, the turned over and
hemmed dwa, on th wron aide. Tak
car t bnlif th braid leaaVly ana to al
low for shrrnklnc It win a,,. tim.
If th first stitching I don on th ma
ehtiM and I then tamed over and
hemmed down by band oa th wrong
aid. - 1 -
" - ' .. .
To ep th new celluloid iiar Nmei
from Irritating th rrk, take a piece
of lMOi tap the lnnh of the bone re
quired, then tarn t-r about a half Inch
at etn n and m th edre tor-tk
iraa i"iirf m ami po-k-ta lo
t Ke bvEa Into.
P. etnora th
Tark In f i'-
Clery In Apple Cups.
SELECT bright red apples of uniform
shape, take off a sllc from th
stem snd and remove most or tne
pulp with an appl corer. . Notch tb
dg With scissors. A cook should keep
a pair of scissors especially for pre
paring garnishes, and to be used for no
other purpose. Tb cup should not b
mad much in advanc of serving.
Make a salad of two cups of well
chilled celery cut ln small pieces, one
half cup of English walnut meats brok
en up and mayonnaise to moisten. Or
use celery and mayonnaise alone or add
a llttl appl cut fine. Fill th appl
cups, add a sprig of parsley or celery
leaves ana a wreain or ceiery leave
and a wreath of celery round th plat.
If th ollv oil and egg ar chilled
and the oil is added very slowly art first
there will b no trouble with th may
onnaise. For a small quantity allow th
yolkaof one egg, one-half teaspoon of
salt, a speck of cayenne, one-half pint
01 out on ana on ana one-nair tea
spoons of lemon Jute.- If liked one
quarter teaspoon of dry mustard may
oe aaaea, ana ir a aurr aressing la pr-
rerrea. us vinegar msteaa or lemon
Juice.
Southern Apple Cake.
MIX together two cupa of cornmeal.
four tablespoons of sugar, on-
half teaspoon of aalt and on t
spoon of cream of tartar. Add on and
one-half cap of milk, on tablespoon, of
meltd butur, on-half teaspoon bf soda
dissolved In two teaspoons of hot wa
ter and finally sdd on and one-half
cup or thinly ailcea apples. Bake In
a anauow vuttcrM pan ror about mln-utea.
It H m
less of whole cloves and about one-quar
ter ounc of allspice. Tie the spices in
a bag and boll with two quarts of vine
gar and th auger. Skim well, then add
the peaches. Cook 10 minutes or longer
if th peaches are not tender. Skim out
the peaches and put into stone Jars.
Boil the syrup five minutes longer and
pour over th fruit. The next day pour
off the syrup and boll down again for
five minutes. Do this for three morn
ings. Keep th bag of spices in th
syrup. Pears and craoappies can oe
done this way, but must be steamed
tender before they ara put in the syrup,
One hundred thousand willows are
being planted along the line of th
Northern Paelflc rallr&ad In North Da
kota to serve as snowsheds.
K t t
I
UM.USiEI
'l ft a
'! J -
1 1 M M .iP- -i
Tomato Marmalade,
TltlS la ah old and treasured rc1p
by a lady In Boa th Carolina. :
on quart of tip tomato, mea.
used after tb fruit has ba pealed.
cat cp, brought to th boll and aklnmd
thoroughly (or to each tw-pound can
ef tomstoeal tak tw pounds ef sugar.
wi oranges, on lemon. nnmri th
twn vhn tha wett lajpaip from t": 'orange and lemoi with
''7i' U aa d.-:: r. r - -.sal I I fc-j, ,in . ' I 1 -VA. t , UUily art
Keep Tour Closets Dry.
T Is very difficult to prevent damp
ness from Invading a summer house,
and often everything In a closet will ;
be mildewed, specially shoes and satch
els. This may bs prevented by keeping
an ample supply of lime and charcoal on
hand. A plateful or lime piacea in tne
corner of a closet will absorb the damp
r h renal also is excellent for
sweetening and, purifying the atmos-
used again by sTmply heating to a red
heat.r Its capabllittea after being heated
for absorbing- odors and Impurities ar
greater than at nrst. .
R It K
French Sweet Tickles.
- j. n a I
ONE FEUK or green lumaiuca ancni, i
six larga onions, one teacup of salt
Place the sliced tomatoes on a sieve
or dish drainer to drain over night
Sprinkle the salt over them. In thsl
morning boll slowly in two quarts of Girls who work for thnlr Htrlno-
water ana on wi are especiauyexDOserl to the danrpr
twoUquaru Tof vinegarTTH .l"of of organic feminine disorders. Stand
brown sugar, one ounce of whit mus- fag all day, or sitting in cramped
cearnnlmorr'nd" Pitions ; waking to tad from their
mustard, add th tomato and cook places of employment in bad weather
slowly for IS minutes more. ., . . . K.t Anmt k.u.
I 'v ffvna uunu aUwaJl
t l I Ieminine organism.
a Toilet Hint. No class of women are in need
ttere is an excellent toilet hint or or greater assistance, and thou
14 aeeret. says tha woman who be- Bands of letters like the follow-
11 neves ln passing rood thing ing demonstrate the fact that
along. This la cucumber Una but don't ff. js s ni.itriigpgi
throw away one skin. Put them on In k I WIM Ha rlfllinMItl 29
.rn a vegetadle compouiid
a few dsops of bensoin. on tablespoon restores the feminine system to a
of lemon lulee and lone teaspoon of al- fmrllr uiiW aT AtHnn -
cohoL I keep mis in my retngeraior, i
strong, healthy, normal condition.'
Miss Abby F. Barrows, of Nelson
Tille, Ohio, writes to Mrs. PInlJbam :
"I was very sick, had dnll head
aebea, pais in my back, and a feminine
woeJkneaa. I bad been to several doc
tors and they did me no (rood. Lydla
E. Plnkham s Vegetable . Compound
made me well and strong-, and I can do
moat anyjtind of work. I am In better
health than I ever was, and it it all dua
to your medicine." j
Mks liUiia RnRS-nf 530 VL&iih St
Ke w York, writes to Mrs.rinkham :
' I had a female trouble, nervous
headache..an4 waa tired all the tim.
and could not tWp. LydiaE. nnkham's
Yr(r table Componnd mad ma feel ao
much bet tea- thai I hope very woman
who anffera aa I did will try it."
FACTS FOR SICK WOF.trN.
For thirty vean I.vdia, 11 rink.
ham's Vetretabla Cbmrormd. madu
from root and herbs, has been the
standard remedy for f mi nine IUjl
and has poifiTely cured thenwands of
women, Tiy.dont you try it ?
Mr, Plnkham. I.TnttMaaa-
laTites all alck women to write
oerior aavice, - - ,
and It is on of th best things for
whitening the rac ana necs.
St St tt
Shirley Sauce.
mWO DOZKX large rip tomatoa.
I two onions, four cups eider vin-
gar, four tablespoons sugar, two of
aalt and pepper to taste. Pest tomatoes.
chop onion fin, mix well end boil slow-
ly two or thre hours. Botil and keep
In a cool dark olac. - Wld mouthed
bottles ar good to keep It ln If tight
ly aeaJed.
g . a .
Raisin Wine
TAKE two pounds of raisins, ed and
Ichop them, a lemon, a pound of
white sugar and about tw galloa
of boiling wster. Pour Into a atons Jar
and stir dally for sla or eight days.
Ftraln. bottle and pot In a cool plara f"r
1 daye or so. when th win will be
ready ror as.
- H f
Dark Caie,
0K5-HALT cap but ter. two cup
browa sugar, three-fourths cap
raisins (seeded and cf) erred).
three-fourths cup of rarranta, ona-ha.'f
rap of citron th!n!y :icd and cut la