THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTLAND. SUNDAY MORNING. AUOrfST 23, 1903
OoingA1broXd 'pgr Their
Cm. Ibrs, if ?m
' 'Vy Mr. I ;? ill
$3
)
X.
The Habit That is
Becoming General
With American Women
of Wealth
7t fRS. BRADLEY MARTIN was be
I in interviewed in London.
J- ' "If ill you ever return to IV ew
York?" she was asked.
"One can never fell 1 what may happen.
But, really, I see no advantage in going to
New York when all Sew York comes to Lon
don." It was the last word upon her self-exile
hy the woman who, a dozen years ago, gave
the fancy-dress ball at the Waldorf which
made her the most-talked-of hostess in Amer
ica. Her struggle for social recognition
ended, in triumphs unsurpassed by any Amer
ican hostess of recent generations, she gave
jierself barely time to feel her position as
tured before she spurned it in her spring
across the Atlantic, to seek fresh fields for con
quering. And she's never coming back
trever more.
Likewise scores, even hundreds, of Amer
ican women, whom we have come to regard as
tqually nice ladies, have spurned, and are
spuming, the land of liberty in fashion equally
light, equally disdainful.
MRS. BRADLEY MARTIN vouchsafed an expla
nation, one all the more significant for the
fact that she professed no such detestation
of the land of her birth and her money as
actuates William Waldorf Astor. Expatriate, but not
renegade, is Mrs. Bradley Martin: and there, again,
be typifies a numerous contingent of her aliter-ab-entees.
"I haven't forgotten that I am an American; I al
ways will be. But I am tremmdously fond of England
smd the English. I have lived here bo long that I feel
more at home In London than I should In New York.
America Isn't 'home' any more for me.
"I am not an expatriate." she hastened to declare;
the word blisters so long as one corpuscle runs red In
stead of blue. "But England Is a delightful place to
live In. and New York has a lot of things to learn
Irom the people here.
"Consider tha English country life, with Its week
ends,, the social arrangements and the ease with which
things are done. Why. it Is a positive Jov. And there
is no effort at least, no effort apparent in any social
affair here; while-"rn New York what a to-do thpv
make over most things! Oh. I made it myself- I know
Whereof I speak.
"Then, the American woman Is so successful here
eocially. as a rule. A woman with money, who is
MX
If'.' .:
Weil bred, a woman with tact and the majority of
Americans have that can get along in any society.
Once you are In London society is a very simple
thing far simpler than Is society in New York. This
talk about American and English women being so
different Is all nonsense. Women are t;.e Fan.e the
World over. Our women are splendid-look i:, g crea
tures, and they have excellent ta.-ic Thev ;;er had
to leave New Yoik to learn that, either."
fche might vers well lave aii.e.-d , reason for
, her preference for England i.s !!k her affertlon f.-.r
daughter Cornelia, "to married t.'.e Karl of ('raven
In lfcya. The cunte? American n.-ther is now
grandmother to quite an lnirt-.r candidate for ti e
British peerage, the hai.dsmne intb- Viscout.t rtriis
ton. She has every excuse "f dementi- ties to h.'.ee
But "he is candid, even in her oe i liking f..r the
modified feudal jmrnp whic:. atti -ids l.er .iri.;tl at
her estate in Scotland. Ka:m.i-.-t.u,, w i -ro the s ,...
. children line up along the , .. rou.j and ct..-e:
her pipers greet her w if; , , i .. '. - fnvr!t i. ; 4
Carnegie's pipers greet his .-iwaker.'i .. ;:,,.in!r gs at
6klbO, and she bows in gracious it;.-., estv tr, ;i,.r r...
pendents In a style that I a g ; e:i r :i.md,rg
Great Britain of Queen Vutnia.
As for Bradley Martin, t.'.e AiLar.v clerk to nl.ora
he brought the millions of her !(!'- r. Ifaa.- S.'er
min, the enormously rich lumber bur at.t. be fades
Into modest retirement before ti.e eff jlgence if i.er
glory unless some formal affair compels his appear
ance. T'en he dutifully do-.s IJ.e breeKs and a ki t.
It "Ul'1 seem as it tr-ise rnperul. encouraging
words of Mri. Rradley Martin bad been the ade ir.e
curr, of the new Mrs. Waoe ('nance, while n.-.e was
rrpari: g the trousseau that adorned her transmuta
tion fro-v, the widowed eftate of Mrs. Van Rensselaer
Crufer to the mat nmen is 1 happiness of Mrs. Wade
Chance. Mri I'hnnoe does n"t Impersonate Imposing
Wealth. Menns? Oh. yes. ahe has means; but auch
rler, nr Mrs Bradley Martin Implied are acarcely
rputrt to he hers el'h.r.- 1- her own rfght or as
Tat at . frn- er busbar d. a!tK,ougb h la an asso
ciate of Spencer Traak In whose Interests he went to
London
Aa ' Ju,ie .rd r." Mrs Oncer Ider.t'fied herae'f
with the lot:;, tua! ar.d library i.fe ef t.-.,g country
ed her ocil position was rf the k,-.d tr.at many
"5"f 'al Aroarlcan bcts?e. rw ;r Undon, long
afi..'...W.Uh.'n"umi'r n" sdver.tjre there,
f a .i.!"-1 n;M '' r' nature
liw fVlt. BOT' "'rprlse. for sr- aims to eatab
E2!Uil h ntelctul a.or.4 of
a-w r:r ai r.cmp.
fceti II tCnn..00" ,ook lodgings In a prlrat.
, .J:. kT -arrant. a Mrs. Cbanre in een-
R?? S5 m IS I0'? .prl1 Un ' Alfred
'' ""'it r fcecfc.lor. fid the hednoom
kT?5-Um1 r ln0"' for the Ditttta ef
Cbacoaa. Aa eooa aa tke at aa mltab'.e weuisg
Jll
Y
1
George
n
4:
Cr
'ror-srrer'iy
7er
Is
found London Is to be treated to the spectacle of
an American woman essaying that moat difficult feat,
even for the grande dame born to the purple, the es
tablishment of a salon.
Pretty nearly every woman who Is Inspired to
emulation of English society in Its native fops r)as
some reason that may serve as adequate excuse; but
pretty nearly all of them are likeiy to subscribe in
tl.eir heart of hearts to tii simple sentiment that
they like Europe better.
The widow of Marshall Field, grave with the bur
den of toe education of l.er tuo I i.yp, de-t.t.ej under
ti eir far-seeing father's v r.i to be tl m rlenest
l.elrs in America, fouioi it eFsential t:.it sl.e take
ti.e.n to England for their pr litiili.ai y .-tu-liet", young
Marshall at Eton and his bitil.er. Harry, 1 ; t a school
in Hertfordshire.
Hut It was not long before handsome Mrs Mar
shall Field herself discovered th.it bo- iv.i.e .!, Iiadv
eboat-n for her modest retired
could brood maternally over the t
and their sister, (twenbivn. u i - r
for a woman of her resources h-.
- i d
. here she
1 '. Iier boys
r too small
a '. i s, ,, , , . ;. ro,-. 1 v 1 1 tea.
t a - d k : 1 i" I .I r.iiu.v
he took a large es'.af ii
into the pressing ''" "f A':."-: w .
tinding "England a d.!ghtful pl.ee i :;e
n. vv o a re
ENJOYS MINING MILLIONS
s v v. .
and t Me V- r
t ' f " p."ttr.4
present.
v : . . m t
r M a n k i y .
11 r f i . e
Caf !-. r-;. 1 . itasr!, f :
j'.ace of r!ienc. But f). ,:
1 1 : r , k f 1 J y t vsf . f , : . r r
t ; or ti 1 r: sr i Ti r a r Hrir a:r -jn-if
of K lr.if IMwar.j ri nnr f .a
f'f regard f. r fell t lr. Anif rh ;
tlifOitnt ir. le tru tr, e Ma
dupt of -;r f-r y conflict Mi!!
' n .1 1 1-,
UMi-M J r..ta-s-
kay f . gr , ami a
rises In K ', rona , . .,
at this late nay. when she aims to sale sun.a rev
height or to retrieve aorr.e o! rtiso-.rrf,t ure.
liut the 1'.don.itar. mother rf a -,n- e d'.i- v
lores the game. America has nm t- ', -' ..- r,r ',.',
s a daughter ur.r :ai tha-i a a -r' f I. a-
dicae; and It wruM I inra ar. k i te he -. , . j .
staunch Mra Macka on ( e- way h o- a fa-, it we, 1
he to ae a lufr, M- '"hanra f-iit;t.r.g Wa ' A
to see her ending grar.'llv on tha f.r.tg lir.e. ar.d l- -n
ail Indiratiora vie vor;t l disar ; "ir.tad
Mrs. John (J Adai-. daughter f Or'-; V'
worth, a tin was k.l ad In t " ft' f a V,
naaa. and wife of a great :- t --i f "ai.
aharlff of Ionega'. IP another Ar"r" wo ;s,
found tar linea in Londo-, C-jri-r ftr; t-et p a..
ant. Fire yaara ago ahe gara nr f t farcv d-ai
halls which go so m'.ot; ly in Engiar.d and raite ij3
a to-do In Naw Tork.
It might hare been railed the roll cf tha e-rigrea
A rary. rv pretty n;i it waa too.
There waa the admirable Prlncaas Htrf df f-r-rnarly
Clara Hunt ieg: en. tha daughter c- th.a :t (-l-lla
P. Huntlnrton nhoaa wealth waa in muft tr.ora
than arrpe for the ral part rf a rrino tj-.t aha
ceald afford to appear at the ball aa Qnees Erther
3.
S8S.1
CO,
sril sl ow her bare feet blazing, as to the pink tinted
toes, with amethysts, emeralds, pearls and diamonds.
Ami meanwhile her mother, possessed of a half dozen
mansions throughout Europe, allowed New York city
to levy on her residence there for unpaid taxes.
There too, were the duchess of Manchester and
Ladv Newborough and the duchess of Roxburghe. for
merly Miss Goelet. who came as Mary, Queen of
Scots in black velvet with large sleeves of white
satin. Yet the emigres of that Adair bajl served were
relatively few. -
The colony has grown enormously in size since
then, and the gates are BtiU widely open to new
comers, so only that they fulfil the requirements
laid down by Mrs. Bradley Martin.
Such a candidate for England's pleasant lines of
life Is Miss Mathllde Townsend, daughter of the lato
William M. Scott, the railway magnate of Pennsyl
vania whose appearance in Washington society ,
brought Into her train such suitors as the Due d'Alba
and handsome young Jerome Bonaparte.
But it is not England alone that draws them
nwav. The continent holds so admired a heauty and
heiress as Mrs. George Law, owner of many millions
Tli Various
' .--la r JIM9. . x ) 7 m
WIIAT do rery rich women do with their
cast-off garments?
What becomes of th ball dresses of
the woman who boasts that she is never
f-ren in fhe same g-own twice f
What of the dresses which go out of fashion
in a season, and which, because of only occasional
wear, are not worn, out or even soiled?
What of these elaborate creations ? What be
c Tries of them f
How often hare you not asked the question!
FIFTT THOL'5A?fD. perhapa a hundred thousand.
d-!!ara a year la spent by rr.any aoctaty
"orr.en for clothea These they never wear out.
Pcasibiy a ball gown, after ita firat aeneation.
- ay rever again be worn. "I wouldn't apoll tfca auc
fii of a areas by wearing It twice!" a well-known
a ay ader once eiclalined.
rojMleaa not many women throw aside their
d-M after a aingie wearing. But durlr.g a aeaaon
la ratta n the queen ef her set wll not wear her
rr.ore than a ha f dotan or a dotan tlitin And
fat w-uld be anuaual for nvasr b-ailk4 and d;
morle ladles of faahion.
F"t. thing beenmea at than ciotbee. Who la the
foHr-inate recipient?
'
wAftii I
o
'A
p.
CI."
v
3f
ref.iSk.
as the girl widow of George Law. She lives In quiet,
elegant seclusion In Paris as much because she can bo
rich without being notorious in Europe as for any
other reason.
Poor girl, she is so pretty, so lovely, so rich and
so courted that the naughty newspapers simply
wouldn't leave her in peace. They insisted on en
gaging her to French counts. Austrian princes,
Khedives from Egypt and maharajahs from Kapur
thala until she was actually compelled to hire a re
press agent at $2500 a year to keep her name out of
print.
For some the life abroad means simply the taking
of life's pleasures where they flow most smoothly.
For others, even as it Is for their fathers and sons in
trade, it Is the game, the great game of life, that
attracts.
Owners &kfie
lk. .Manr a mnlv wAmnn tolllno- r.f K
X UQ DCl.ldai J V J. DU.CIJ TTVl. ...... ...... U . inn
Importunities for charity made upon the rfoh, saya
the number of letters from women asking for the cast-
off garments of society women Is amazing.
"Of course, they write for all sorts of things." she
declared. '"Some would like their babies sent to the
country. Others have babies to be adopted. Old
women would like to get Into homes In which the rich
lady Is Interested. Some, Indeed, write and ask that
food be supplied them; some for clothes. But perhaps
the most curious letters are from women asking for
the cast-off garments of the lady. And the number
Of these requests Is surprising.
"Now this Is really pathetic. Imagine the poor
washwoman dressed In the elaborate ball gown of th
rich woman! Or the spinster school teacher In the
splendid princess dressl The people who write for
these dreBses would doubtless And them singularly in
appropriate." Then who gets the dresses?-
"One society woman whom I know," declared a
dressmaker on terms of Intimacy with many promi
nent women, "gives many of her cast-off garments to
a school teacher who was a chum of hers years ago
at school. The teacher lives In a large city, and
moves In refined and good society where she can well
wear the charming dresses of her patron. She Is a
handsome woman and cuts quite a figure. Hut with
her salary she could not very well clothe herself that
way.
"Another woman makes a specialty of giving
dresses to her maids, her masseuse and other women
who do services for her. Now. she goes to a very
swell massage establishment, where big tips are given,
home of her finest evening dresses are given to the
girl who massages her face. Oh. she finds this quite
profitable.
THOSE FEARFUL WRINKLES
"Listen! There Is nothing so dreaded by your so
ciety woman as the wrinkle, the first suggestion of
age. The appearance of the line or a suggestion sf
fiabblness atrlkea terror to their hearts. Pleas them.
outh Is something tney'd give most of their money
to preserve!
"Then, do you think they'd hesitate at a ball dres.
although as good as new? Never! Why. I know quite
a number of young girl maeseusea who dreaa In the
height of faahion In the dreaaea cf patrona
"Of course, poor relaUvea come In for their shara.
There are few rich woman who don't hare poor rela
tivesthat t. comparatively poor onea There are
often widow in the family ;th growing daughters.
The widow may spend all aha can 8tT-rd to aend the
gir.a to school. And tha trunka cf drsse that come
perlodifall are eagerly welcomed. Ioubtleaa, some
can be made over for the young women Many are.
And mother may wear aome herself. Indeed. In maay
families the dreaaea are bleasinge.
"Many society woman send dreaaea to poarer rala
ttrea living in country, towna. I recall spending a
aimmer It a amail town In Pennsylvania One of the
leading famillea ef the place were relajlres of a
woman whose dreaaea I build. There I learned they
cut e. fecial awati that -waa wonderful. Tha woman
Th (ram more than anythlnr else If whit drawt
and holds a woman like Mrs. Totter Palmer, who,
against the serried forces of Chicago's newly caat
Iron society, waged a campaign that lives In Ameri
can social lilntory with the diplomacies and triumphal
of a Henry of Navarre In France. She conquered
hut carried the scar of an old wound Inflicted by tha
Princess Kulfille, during the world's fair for nlni
years before she'pnld off hor debt of vengeance.
Mrs. Palmer had achieved the domination of Chi
cago when Eulalle was quartered at tha Palinei
House In Chicago.
The princess was later her guest of honor In tha
palatial Lake Shore homo of the Palmers. But wher.
Eulalle learned that the Potter Palmer whose wlfa
was her hostess was no other than the Palmer who
ran the hotel there was a scene.
"1 decline to associate us an equal with tha wlfa
n
of my landlord." announced the haughty rrincess, asl
she hastily quitted Mrs. Palmers roor.
Mrs. Palmer has lived much abroad since then,
and always that bitter wound rankled until she hap
pened to be staying at one of the finest hotels of
Lucerne, in Switzerland. Her cavalier was Don Carlos.
the pretender to the throne of ispaln. wno. also nap
pening to be in Lucerne, devoted himself to the
wealthy American.
fsine alKo the Identical Princess Eulalle vcho had
so wantonlv wounded her. and, of all things, she chosol
. i. - ... i , . J ., .... -1 , a ni'lraag 1 A u rn A il fill
. , , . . . : - . u . 1 .,r.r-tt VA.II
,nrs. i aimer k pi eKenct-. i nw inun iunnfti
"Send that American woman away!" was Eulalle'sl
imperious behest. I
But the manager was already the obedient slavel
. ... . ' J II I I.V. V. n I,. I
or trie weauny American. tie necuiirn win; uioimo.i
Exit Priin -.-tif, Knlalle. while Mrs. Palmer smiled as!
her old scar ceased throbbing, ami Don Carlos hasten-l
ed to wait upon her. to show his most distinguished!
consideration. I
It is the game and they find It worth playing.
Paris Gowi
simply appalled the reople by the splendor of thelrl
dresses. The town folk did not know they were thai
cast-off garments of the wife of the city cousin.
"Doubtless, you have met young women of th"
stage? You have wondered how the little chorus flrlj
who earns 15 or.$:o a week, can dress In a 100 or
a $200 gown. Well, she can't. That Is, she doesn'i
pay that for the gowns. A number of chorus rlrls
have patrons among rbh women and get the dfeaeea
for nothing. Or they buy them from second-hand!
dealers.
"Oh. yea. there are some aoclety women who selli
their clothes. Thev get a amall percentage of the
original com Thev know nothing about tha bualneaaj
no iae econri-nana aea.ers get me oeav 01 mi pari
gain. Many give the ciothing to aervants. who dn-
poae 01 u so :t cornea into poaaesaion or ina cnorus
laaiea. m. in .New 1 ork there are regular second
hand shops which make a aircialfy cf these aarmenta
for the theatrical tra1e. And miiady going tonhe the
ater looking down on the t wink ling-toed ladles sees
the dresa In w hich ana ridtttait last season.
"Why do aocletr women aell their dreeeeeT Li a ban J
wruie 1 wnisper. lou a be aurpriaea at ine n u m Dr o;
rich women or, rarher, the wires or ricn men wna
moat rake ana scrape to get epenaing money.
"Oh. some of those old men are aa neeaa aa they
can be-. They almost make their wtvee account for
tha dollara thev niggardly dole oat They like to aa
their wires well dreaaed. en. reev and the eatabllaa-
ment run In first-clause order. Bat It Just goe swgalnst
their grala to giro out coll money.
o