THE OREGON DAILY JOURNAL, : PORTLAND. SATURDAY EVENING, JUNE 20, 1908,
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How We Dress.- '
ITH all our civilisation, our pro.
. gres and , our boasted im
provement oyer other days,
there U stiirwlth us the bur-
den of having to wear clothe
, although that too.- i at times some
thing to be deplored, but the . actual
: burden of clothes,' the- weight of them
and the Inconvenience of the ,r In
which they are made that women endure
" from year to year, without ever taking
. crepe toward tneir own eniranenisa
ment, that la a matter for wonder.
Time waa when women were the bur
den bearers of the race. Men did the
foraging for food, and the hunting of
beasts). Women had the trifling tasks
. of skinning the animals, preparing tne
.: flesh for food, making garments out of
the skins and caring for the babies, also
those Incident upon moving the house
hold when game grew scarce The man
, undoubtedly carried the weapons of the
chase a these were too valuable to be
lightly handled, but the women carried
the tents, and household goods and
bablea and such trifles, meekly trudg
ing In the footsteps of the lords and
masters. - .
It is considered a mark of civilization
and world progress that women ore no
longer employed for these 'purposes. The
head strap tf the burden bearer has
been lost in the progress to automo
biles, and the .woman who deigns to
rarrv hnma her nair of Srlovea or vard
of lace Is not, strictly speaking, .living
up to ner privileges., ;
Yet tha hurden of clothes she- car
ries on her ofttimes weary and aching
back and in all content, because she
sees no way of escape, she has not the
strengtn or purpose co reDei againsi.
Not long since in this column I urged
the adoption of a suit for housework
that should leave her muscles free and
relieve her body of undue strain. It
will bespeak woman's strength of mind
1 and assure to her a mental poise and
a condition of health that is not pos
sible when she revises this present day
garb, a dragging weight of clothes,
upon a . body which Is seldom given
freedom of action or play of muscles.
High heeled shoes, sheath skirts, tightly
Wed corsets, obscuring veile. ten
pound hats, make a wonderful outfit for
an . enugntenea ana emancipaiea wo
man. . n- . -
No one of u enjoys it, few of us
really think we look well dressed in
this style, and any one of us could. If
we should put our minds seriously to
It. Invent some sort of a comfortable
rig which would answer every purpose
of our present complicated garb' and
yet give us a chance to breathe and
live as Intelligent human beings should.
It Is vulgar to carry a parcel, dui ex
tremely modish to carry from 12 to 16
pound of clothes.
Ashamed to be made burden bearers
for the good of our families, but sub
mitting without a protest to a garb
whloh for discomfort and lack or ny
glenlo and artistic features has rarel j
been equalled in history, women tamely
submit and gq On through life "a a well
as 'Usual," OS) II ' mere wer uu iuuii
thin as , change or progress , to oe
grasped..
Fads and Fashions.
w TEW TORK. June 20. This season is
lI .. marked by its brilliant colors and
sharp contrasts. It is lo longer
considered smart for everything In a toi
lette to match in color; instead, there
may be a hat of new rose wjth a tailored
suit of marine blue. Even the white oos
tumes show a touch of color somewhere
In their trimmings in the embroidery,
the sash or scarf, or in the collar. White
serge and mohair made in two piece
suits, have a velvet collar of black, or
some brilliant color, . -
These suits are very fashionable for
summer wear. Many frocks of St. Oall
embroidered Swiss are worn aver lin
ings of very delicate colors, with a
san of pompadour ribbon as a finish
ing touch. Two or more colors are
often Introduced in the linen frocks,
usually on the collar and cuffs. , The
tailored shirtwaists of linen are ex
tremely smart with the collar, cuffs and
front box plait edged-wlth a plain color
of) blue, pink or lavender. Some of
them, have . these rarts made entirely
of lavender and White narrow stripe
and a half Inch border of plain lavender.
The necktie or Jabot: match also.
The sheath skirt is causing -"much
comment and criticism at the present
day, and yet there is a chance for some
good words to be spoken about It Each
new style originating In Parts gets to
a stage of exaggeration sooner or later,
and then very soon it Is toe generally
worn to be really fashionable. The
craze for the straight, sllrq figure was
the reason the modiste fashioned this
sheath skirt because the blpless Paquln
model was not extreme enough. ; The
long draperies, eopied from the ancient
Greek and oriental ones were , soon
brought into use and were swathed
about J he figure in classlo lines, but It
is really- hoped that , they will not be
seen so generally in this country as
they have been in Paris.
. However, many or tne tneatre gowns
worn bv the French women are the
sheathlike clinging robes which fit the
xigure J lice a giove ana seem to te
rolled, rather than' fitted around the
figure. These gowns are draped so that
the left foot and ankle is quite uncov
ered, sometimes six inches up, and ex
tremes hsve made the slash come near
up to the knee, but the American
woman will be best satisfied if . this
fashion ends with the showing of the
Jiretty foot and ankle. The sheath skirt
s very graceful and easy when its lines
are not "exaggerated. ' tr aperies are
always attractive, and they are unques
tionably the fashion of the day, Only
the most expert dressmakers are cap
able of making a success with these cre
ations, and there are - comparatively
few women who will find them becom
ing, and so with these difficulties to
. overcome, it is not probable that the
style will become universally worn.
, . .-..ill, i i ...... - . ..
There ' are 'many - different' arrange
ments of girdles on the new gowns of
the eea son. We often see a girdle of
an entirely ' different color from the
gown, such as old gold satin on blue.
filnk or ecru. A soft dove gray is much
iked, because it gives the girdle a
distinction all -its own. A charming
effect is found in using wide pompa
dour ribbon of pink rosea on a black
ground. A shaped piece cut from the
lack was fitted In the front to ' the
side seams, and from here was gathered
the full width of the ribbon with the
ends drawn upwards to the back where
they were knotted and let fall in sash
- Veils ate being chosen to match the
gowns worn, yet those of violet or Co
penhagen blue are not . becoming colors
to wear over the. faoe. However, if the
veil must match instead) of contract, it
should be chosen - In a single- thread
with diamond shaped mesh, and the dot
may be large or small, whichever is
most becoming. The net veils with a
close mesh are extremely fashionable,
but they cannot be worn successfully
by every woman. There are some new
chiffon veils shewn in shaded colors
that are) made long . enough to reach
the hem of the gown. One especially,
pretty was pink chiffon, which deep
ened into a rich crimson at the hem,
and another waa of yellow shading Into
deep green. ... . .o
One of the daintiest frocks displayed
SrtfS
s
Some. Novelties In Parasols.
OME charming novelties are seen
In this season's parasols, and lit
tle points of excellence in, ban-
dies and design mark the newer
creations from those which- have
been In vogue for a number of years
past.' One of the prettiest of these new
sunshades is madtrof white silk with a
Dresden border, each rib Ivory tipped
and with a bleached natural wood han
dle. - -
This would be charming with a white
costume.- Another striking model is the
.striped black and white silk parasoL
with a little ruff of the same around
the ferule, and with an ebony handle.
A brown parasol which la new is made
of brown silk, the covr tucked with
four deep tucks and bordered by a band
of darker brown. This la matched in
the natural Bcotch fir .handle, and is
tipped with bronze.
One -of the decided ' novelties this
year is the Toklo shape, which is
marked bv the 1 ribs, making a strong
and alao a handsome round shape. One
of the new Toklo parasols Is shown in
the center of the group. It is made of
green taffeta with a rich Dresden bor-
' Novelties In Parasols, Illastratlon From F. P. Young.
, - . - , : 1 . .-
In a fashionable shop in this city was der. The 16 ribs are of bronze and the
developed In white figured net wltn handle is of natural wood,
trefoil design, and. was made over a The. severely tailored parasol Is now
foundation of rose pink satin. The one of desired modes, and Is carried out
skirt, mounted in gathers waa cut In all colors to match any costume..
uhi mnlra and had a tunlo cut The one reoreaented la nt rnnankin.
high on the left side extending to the blue taffeta. It has silver tips and a
hem of the gown at the right of the I natural wood handle, which Is capped
k.ni, Tii. hm was rinisned witn a i wun silver, and la made Hv,riv nii
border of rose pink satin and Inser-jto carry with a tailored suit These to go straight up the front over the
tldh in this life should help to better
our conditions, and the home is the
baae of the whole structure. Nowhere
are conditions so favorable for . ideal
homes as in the country, surrounded
by everything that develops the entire
man and completes a symmetrical being.
Parents should provide for their chil
dren the. very best home possible and
make it neat - and attractive. Teach
them that they, too, have a part to act
In making the home attractive and
homelike. Get them Interested so much
that they. learn to love home more than
any other spot on earth.
Let them have their Innocent amuse
ments : and give them time to enjoy
them. Let them know that each one
has a part to do In making the home
pleasant. Teach them that any discord
among them affects the whole family
and that others have rights that each
member must learn to respect. Let
them know that the home Isn't kept up
for some pet of the family but is run
in the interest of all. Teach them to
respect their elders.. In fact, teach
them to be little ladles and gentlemen
and when they are grown up to man
hood and Womanhood they will , linger
long at the parental threshold before
stepping out to breast- the rushing cur
rent of Ufe in the outside world; and
more than that, when father and mother
have. been borne to their .final resting
place and their ashes peacefully rest
beneath the clouds of the Valley, the
children's fondest recollections-' will be
of their childhood home, where they
got the scent of the new-mown bay.
and beheld the golden light of the
wheat fields, and heard the rustle it
tne issaica or corn, and drove the cat
tle afield, their bare fet wet with the
dew of the morning, and rode the horses
with the halter to the brook until they
fell off, and hunted the mow for nests
until .the feathered aocupants weut
cackling away, and as they move -a
down life's pathway, and the panorama
ui mmr-ciujanooa noma passes before
$ ra, wu up ana can you
at
. f ' - ,
V " " Novelties In Dress.
THERE is no lack of variety in
clothes this season, writes the New
Torker. If your purse i Is full
enough to order a dozen or more gowns
you can have each one In style and en
tirely different In line, color and con
ception from the others. '-
, There have been few seasons when so
many kinds of fashions were jumbled
upon each ofher without rhyme or rea
son. Possibly this Is because all the de
signers tried to get something new and
all the customers went off on tangents
of their own. This resulted In a mixup.
'Short and stout figures, long and lean
onea, those who like extremes and. those
who do not, ran all be suited in the va
riety of styles that are In first class
this year.
The short waist is as stylish as ever,
and yet the extremely long waist, almost
pinched In at an exaggerated length. Is
equally favored. Long and short coats
are In each wardrobe, and loose and
tight ones are equally worn.
It might also be accounted a distinct
novelty the wearing of black liberty
satin for plain coat suits. Every one
cannot afford It, but it is quite lovely.
These are not for everyday street wear,
but you see them at the smart restau
rants and the private houses for lunch
eons and afternoon teas.
One of the best-looking ones that
started the fashion had a circular skirt,
very narrow and scanty, with seam
down front and two box pleats at back,
fitting over the waist line and giving
a superb curve to the back. It was
higher there than In front.
Evldcntlv no petticoats were worn
with It. The now fashionable bloomers
must have been under It. It probably
had a six-inch facing of cloth and stiff
muslin to keep the hem seady. It was
very long all around, with a short,
pointed train.
The coat was loose, artistla and with
little semblance of fit. It did not meet
by six inches In the front and had two
lapped darts down back, from shoulder
to hem.
Odd as the coat Is it is not nearly so
Important to the average woman these
days as the skirt worn with it. This
is very harrow, quite In the manner of
the First empire, clinging to and show
ing the figure and revealing the fact
that very little underwear Is beneath it.
There is either a seam down the
front or three box pleats or 12 tucks.
There Is no attempt to curve in at the
waist line, as a perfectly straight line
is dropped from two Inches above the
waist to the floor.
Everything is done to widen the front
breadth. It has been years or decades
since we have allowed three box plaits
turned over In an inch and a half hem
and . finished with feather stitching.
Now the-' bag is ready to mount on the
handles, which are formed of two
wooden embroidery hoops, bound with
trimming tape, which is bought by the
piece in any snop. -a wnite tape wun
fine blue . feather- stitching - makes a
Eood kind for the hoop a . The braid is
ound a - little more than half way
around the hoop and the ends tied in
a tiny bow, which serves to hold the
hoop. . The top hem is made ' after the
bag is mounted en the hoop. Otherwise
these would be no way of getting over
the ring.
- These bags fit over' door handles er
the top of a chair and are one of the
most convenient furnishings of a bath
or dressing room.-. 8trlps of this clean
looking blue and white toweling make
attractive dresser and table scarfs; they
can be used for aide curtains in bed
rooms, for- wall protectors or mantel
strips. They are fresh looking and are
as serviceable as anything that could
oe zouna ior simple country oearoora
furnishings.:. .... - - i ;". - .
It . H -f .f;ii-V.
Btow to Keep Flowers. V
THE question of keeping flowers
fresh for any length of tlms Is one
-- that pussies every glrL ' Here ore
a few suggestions that were tried by a
girl and worked quits well. , Of course
a great deal depends On how fresh the
flowers are when they are received.
This is particularly true at a tlms of
Bathing suit model for serge, mo
hair or gloria. .The knickerbockers
are joined to a cotton sleeveless un
derwaist to which the blouse shield
Is fastened.
II.. nf amhrnlriared filet. At half the I Parasols COme With their nat ahuth a
distance between the bottom of the I the same material -and shade, and as
skirt and the highest part of the tunic, I they are made of rain proof silk, they
this trimming wu ipvum .""u L t "., "w.1" camea as umoreiias. Tne
skirt and then again at the hem. The handle of this sort is longer than that
bodice was draped over a lining having of the usual parasol and the article
a square yoke, collar and undersleevea has a decided style. Coaching parasols
of tucked net finished with plaltings are as much in demand as ever, and are
of net. Filet insertion and points of made with the jointed handle, which
11. nv.rl n nnM th tucker Of SStln. may be Set at anv an.l. Tk.
The girdle very aeep in ironi, biihs s or oiacK taireta. and IS made
a decided point and growing narrower with an Inner ruffle giving additional
yet pointed in back, was made of shade.
smoke gray mouneellne. This would Taffeta parasols are made in all
be a charming frock to wear at a, gar- shades, and any costume may be
den party or any summer fete. matched or the desired note of high
j'XiUriJs.iNv.a tAinonio. "v given oy mis one article.
st K
Plates That Grw.
TF you could eatyour dinner off a ft
I service like ithls, now!" said a shown, one with a
collector of porcelain, taking a in &n -adaptation o
This Is an effect whirh mv k ..tA
ut well with the red taffeta parasol
I ".1 iieiniiicnea Doraer. The
embroidered nnn n m.i. .. u
Ui?e-1. T!i ' "ht nd dainty, and
annum any suit. TWO are
i Doraer or embroidery
strange, bright plat, from f cabinet w("f 1. o?r$!
"Why. such a service would be worth and with a green border, which makes
$100,000 or more," LETS fPntrast wlt the, natural
The plato's surface was covered with Ther. ... . ' .,., ... .
an irregular and glittering crystalline a hinged handle and ferule, so that they
growth a half-inch high. Beautiful cfB b ?Lced ,n a sultcase. These
crystal In their graceful outline sug- erytS.. Wa.d bbeen
trees, rose up everywhere from the I the season's styles are extremely nrettv
S, K g
The Farm More Attractive).
f NE of the large questions of the
Uoay is now to interest yonng peo
Dla In countrv lie, v.
known. One, that belongs to a Boston the tide from th ..lJt
collector. Is valued at 500.: Another. "!ui rfm. tn cons-ested cHy to the
that had belonged to spoor ew i or k i oome or our con-
woman who attached no value to It, sold f tributors who are interested in thi.
at auction In 'l for 11,700. I esMon a h, k.i.
"It is interesting to navs a growing vlxr T T li
lt Is." said ths collector, "a growing
plate. It is one or those plates wnose
clay, containing aluminum and magne
sium, eauses'an outgrowth of crystals
under the enamel. Buch plates are very
rare. I paid 12,000 for this one.
"Only a hall aoeen growing pistes are
plate in your collection. This specimen
here has put forth three crystals under
that little blue mountain design slnoe it
come into my nana," , ; s ,
Resting Your Hair.
wREQUENT changing of the method
p i of wearing your hair Is very bane
FARM LIFE FOR THE TOUNO.
y Mrs. T. B. Williamson.
Christ, the great teacher, when h.
was speaking to the multitudes, never
reierrea once in his parables to city
life but draw oil 1.1- . . -. '
;j ii." r; "j- oss0ns
ii 'it" "ni "s surroundings.
He spoke to them - In the fields and
aroves. amonv th J
, ficlaj. Jf you are In the habit of on the mounulnside, where the riDnilni
parting your hair In the middle, part It "!ra fetliiby un'1nr springs!
on. side for a few days. Jf your yoji . t0 rZ TOrtthlnwsarV',?S
r is heavy and you wear 1t high on thirsty, the .heavy laden. werv.
"na ,?onn auI and Isaiah find
at
hair
your head, let it hang down your back!
in a braid once In a while. In this wayl in country life a source of freouimi
tha continual strain on mi mrt r thi I lllnarrlrn -,kii. u Jr.. ..TA 1cluen '
-: 6
possibility of calling, Qod
g:. 'Mr rather, la th
man. ' Noah waa the first firm., u.
farmer.
the husband-
Eve's Daughter
should be fair to look upon. No unsightly blemishes should
mar the natural beauty of her face and her cheeks should
have a healthy, delicate tinge of color. ,
t Hag
Magnol
an's
ia Balm
es
Imparts the bloom of youth to faded cheeks and does It
Instantly. - No dosinj, with medicine, no Ions: course of
treatment, only a, moment required to apply this peerless
beautifier. ' v., .
' r. Made In two coIors-PlNK and WHITE. .
' Price 73 cents for large bottle at your druggist Sample
free. -
LYON MANUFACTURING CO.. u South Fifth St. BBOOKLTN. K.T.
""'-Tat1!11 ',. If ai '." rj.r;.;;-?rgy
say no thin a- ihnni rain .u. ,m "Z
thl .,.11 T.."" " mwr VI
... .v,... ... AUam waa a gardener on a
large scale, but tn Kn?n ...
all the acres of the earth. ElTsha was
an egrloulturist not culUratlng a 10
acre lot, for we find him plowing with
12 yoke of oxen, so we find many noted
farmers in Bible , timea whn ia V1
country life. K-.
-As we take t .llmm. n lk. Li.,...
of our own country we notice the
names of a great many men of our land,
about three-fourths of whom were born
and reared upon the farm. -The coun
try home has been the honored birth
place of statesmen, of patriots, of rul
ers and of martvra . It ha.
! the ambition nt a. T. Inntlx miA . n--
field. It has sheltered the patriotism of
a Jackson and the staunch unconquer
able will of a Ulysses 8. Grant.
- It has molded, developed and refined
the noble character nt Wuhimtfui
of Jefferson. The major portion of our
iiyuiv wn ana women witn sturdy
blood and loyal hearts hava han hnrn
and reared upon the farm, so I would
say to the young men and women, who
have been reared upon -the farm, not
Jo fossake It for city life, but to cherish
it as they would the apple, of their ago,
remembering that the boys and girls
who are born and reared In the coun
try home are to become the klna-a and
Queens of vour fair land.
i.very motive that prompts us to
belt line.
At the back the skirt fits Into the
waist line, which, as you will Instantly
remember, is Just the opposite of what
It has been doing. The front went in
and the back -stayed out on a straight
line; these conditions are reversed.
The sweep at the back is confined to
a. sharp little point that twists and
turns on the floor as the wearer walks.
It is so narrow at the aides that It us
ually folds into creases or turns over at
the edge.
This type of skirt is really better in
the long run for dress wear than the
short one for street, but we have them
on the latter lust the same. They make
the plaited skirt look quite a back num
ber, although they cannot take away
the fact that it is the prettiest skirt. .
No matter whether or not they ere
lined, they are fitted exceedingly tight
over the hips with a straight central
seam, ana the material is so scant that
thev pull In under the knees.
There are no ruffles or bias folds to
break the line, but the wide designs of
the same - cloth are stitched on and
pressed down with a hot Iron to look as
inougn tney were woven in the fabric.
t tt m :
' Made of Chinese Towels.
rHINATOWN contributes many
charming novelties to the realm of
needlework, but none of the or!
ental fabrics Is more useful than ' the
ordinary Chinese towels. It is only re
cently that the possibilities in these in
expensive materials have been recog
nized. Now they are being made up
Into effective laundry bags, bags for
soiled handkerchiefs, catchalls and bags
of every description that can be hung
in the bath room or dresslnar room and
can be tubbed whenever their freshness
nas gone.
Chinese toweling comes In blue and
whlta strlDS several yards Inn, nd
about enlghteen inches wide, ; Every
twenty-four inches tor so there Is a de
cided decorative design in blue and
white, with a typical Chinese, hnrdor
arouna tne rectangle. Bometlmes flow
ers in aaricer oiue adorn the towel cen
ter and sometimes the decoration is of
dragons and glgantio Chinese charac
ters, usually there are two shades of
blue In the toweling relieved by white.
The material costs , fifteen or twenty
cents a towel, and it takes four to
make a laundry baa. -whila
dofor a soiled handkerchief bag.
To make the laundry bag use four
towels cut. the same length and sew
them together down the center with
feather stitching done in white cotton.
Finish the sides, the top and the bot
tom in the earn viv nA K.ir
an opening-In the center of the front of
the bag. beginning about elx inches
from the too and hava It tan in.h.. in
depth. Twp rows of the feather stitch
ing will give , this a Drettv look and
make ths opening firm. Then make a
rectangle of feather stitching across the
top of the bag, leaving a. space four
'tv uwu asuuvv m inn raw tarn
nches between that row and th. Mh.r
and have ths 'ends come - within two
inches of the sides of the bag. At each
end of this rectangular space and on
the under side of the bag mage a wide
buttonhole worked In the white cot
ton. ThlS iS tO Slln in tha atr4n nt
wood which gives the bag firmness and
something to hanr It- nn hv M.k. a
hole in eaoh end of the board about an
Inch from the end and- through this
run two ootton Curtain loops, one going
each way. Tassels win be left on each
side of the bag and there will be four
loop by which the bag can be hung up.
When its turn comes to go to the laun
dry the cotton cords can be slipped out,
the board removed and there is the flat
bag ready to be washed and ironed.
The soiled handkerchief bag ia even
simpler to put together. Two of the
Chinese towele are feathert' stitched to
gether down the center and then thev
are folded in half crosswise, the length
of the towel being sufficient to form
the double bag. The folded sides are
ornamented with stitching to within
three Inches of .the top. The ends are
the year when the florists are very
busy, as then In order to fill ali their
orders they are not as careful as they
mignt oe as to tne rresnness of the
flowers they deliver.
Long-stemmed flowers, such ss roses
or carnations, can be kept easily for a
weeK Dy cutting on a Dit or the stem
each day and by changing tha water
daily.
If they become wilted from the heat
tney. snouia De spnnKied witn cold wa
ter and put In the refrigerator or a cold
room over night. A little salt added to
the water will alao lelp to keep them
fresh. Roses or carnations treated In
this way should last nearly a week, and
Often do last longer.
Violets are a harder proposition, as
they often look well a long time, but
the odor of stale violets makes It Im-
Fosslble to wear them after a day or
wo. A good way to keep them, how
ever, is to get a large box and put In
It a great deal of silk paper; then put
the Violets In this box and sprinlcle
thoroughly, particularly the stems.
Cover them well with the silk paper
and put them In the top of the Icebox,
or. If It is winter, line the bottom and
sides of the box with cotton batting
and Put the box outside the window.
The cotton has just enough warmth to
keep the flowers from freezing and the
siik paper Keeps in the moisture, it le
better, if possible, to tip the box so that
the water runs down to the stems, as
omerwise tne riowers are apt to get
water soaked.
Sweet peas, orchids, gardenias and
lilies of the valley can all be kept In
this same way. A gardenia will last
a long time ir the flower is not
touched, but as soon as It is touched it
turns brown. A girl sent some flowers
packed In this way to a friend who was
111 and they arrived at the end of five
days quite as fresh as when they had
started. Nothing in the world Is nicer
or sweeter than fresh flowers, and
notning is mum worse man stale ones;
but girls' who want to keep flowers
fresh will find the above rules good
ones to follow.
HINTS FOR HOUSEKEEPERS
5
v Beef Pie;..' ' :
IMMER a piece of beef, in salted
water until tender,-adding water
as necessary, so as to have plen
ty of gravy. When. tender cut or
- chop in smalt pieces and place ia
a baking dish, season! a g to taste, and
add gravy to nearly cover. Cover with
a crust made of two quarts flour, two
large Spoons lord, one teaspoon salt, one
tablespoon sugar, three teaspoons bak
ing powder, worked together, then
moisten with one pint Sweet milk. Roll
out to one inch, spread on butter and
roll up.. Roll again to inch thickness,
cut slashes in the top snd spread over
meat. Bake until brown.
. -; e , 1 '
Graham Bread.
At night take one cup molasses, one
teaspoon each salt and soda and pour
over it one quart of boiling water. Stir
till it foams; let cool until only luke
warm, then add yeast and two measures
of graham to one of white flour until
stiff enough for a spoon to stand up in
it Let rise till morning; put in pans
and when raised enough bake one hour.
a
Apple and Currant Jelly.
Many housekeepers make jelly of
equal jarts raspberry and currant juice,
but if when currants are scarce they
will use apple Juice instead, they will
be delighted with the result By using
part apple you can have the decided
raspberry flavor, but have a good firm
jelly, says a country housekeeper.
The only trouble Is that apples are not
In season at the same time that the
berries are ripe so that it Is necessary
to plan ahead.- Cover the apples with
cold water and stew until tender, then
drain out the Juice through a cheese
cloth bag. Reheat and when boiling
fill class lara and seal. It li rea.dv
then wht never wanted. Baldwin apples
are excellent for this purpose, for they
mane a rirm, Drigni coiorea jelly wnen
nsed ty themselves or with the berries.
Currants can be made to go much far
ther bv vain oart annla fiilna. FMalr-
berry jelly is liked by some even better
tnaa raspoerry, and can be made In the
same way. When cutting apples for
plea this winter If they are carefully
wipna ana an ine naa rejected tne skins
may be used for this purpose.
a s ...
Whole Wheat Bread.
Put nna nlnt rtf milk tn h.nt IntA .
double boiler. When hot, remove from
the fire and when lukewarm. 98 dea-rees.
add a pint of water. Add half a tea
spoonful of salt, a small compressed
yeavt coke dissolved in a quarter of a
cupful of cold water. Stir in sufficient
whole wheat flcur to make a batter that
will drop from a spoon. Beat continuous
ly for five minutes. Cover and stand In
a warm place, 76 degrees, for two hours
snd a half. Then add slowly suf flulent
flour to make a dough. Take this out .
on a board and knead continuously fur
10 minutes. Add a little flour from time .'
to time to prevent the sticking. When
the dough Is sufficiently elastic springs
back upon pressure, make it Into four '
loaves. Put each loaf Into a small !
square pan. Cover and- stand In a
warm place for three suartera of an'
hour or until the dough has doubled :
its bulk and is light. Brush, the top
with water; this softens ths crust, al
lowing the gases and moisture to es
cape Bake 10 minutes at a tempera
ture of. 860 degrees, then lower the
temperature to 00 degrees, sod bake
30 minutes. , ; -
Renewing Old Embroidery.
Make a good lather -with soap and
warm water, -adding-one fourth of a
teaspoonbul of powdered borax to each
quart- of water, says a writer In the
Woman's Home Companion. Place the
articles in an ordinary glass fruit jar,
then nearly fill tha Jar with the lather,
seal tightly, shake the Jar a little, and
place It in bright sunlight far 4 hours.
Of course, if the weather Is cloudy, the
time should be allowed for. - Turn the -Jar
around occasionally, so. that the sun
may penetrate every part.. When tha
time la up, pour off the lather, press the
fabric gently, then rinse several times)
in clear, sort water. Return it to the
jar with more dear water, set it again
In the sun, changing the water dally,
until the material is white. I recently .
renovsted a bit of fine old hand em-
as saffron, by this method and it waa
beautiful.
e , e
AM About the Home.
When making curries always use a
wooden spoon in the preparation of cur
ries: steel or iron ones are simply fatal ,
to the obtaining of that delicious aroma
characteristic of this dish.
To roast meat well it is necessary
to have the joint frequently basted wltn :
melted fat, or the coagulated surface
will allow the juices to escape, and a
tasteless Joint will be sent to the table.
Wrap discarded winter clothing In
two or three thicknesses of newspaper.
Double and carefully sew up the ends
after folding over, so that moths can
not pnetiate through the seams. ,
xour squeaxmg boots should stand In
linseed oil all night, having the oil just
deep enough to come up over the soles.
Professor V. K Jaff, who has been
connected with the stats university of
California for 80 years, says In a bulle
tin prepared for the United States de
partment of agriculture that 10 cents
worth of peanuts contains mora than
twice the protein and six times tha
amount of energy contained In a por
terhouse steak. . --.
These conclusions were arrived at
after exhaustive study and exnerimentsi
carried on In Berkeley with student!
THE MOTHERS' CORNER
F
t st st
Some Culinary Hints.
ANT nlce cream cheese, or home
made Dutch cheese, and add cream
, enough?" to make it nice and
smooth; press this down in a little dish
to harden in a shape or mould; turn It
out and proas with It red or white cur
rant jam, or gooseberry Jam, and thin
crackers. It Is served either with salad
or after dessert at dinner, with coffee.
It also makes an excellent last course
for a plain home luncheon or supper.
New York Observer.
Barley Jelly. SteeD six ounces of
pearl barley for six hours; poud 8H
pints of boiling water upon It, stew it
quickly In a covered Jar in a hot oven
till perfectly - soft and the water ab
sorbed. When half done, add six ounces
of sugar and a . few drops of lemon
juice. Two and a half hours Is the cor.
rect time zor stewing the barley, ana
It Is then a better color than If longer
in DreDaraiion. roar it into a mould
to set. and serve with custard or stewed
fruit. London Farm and Home.
Salt Mackerel. Place with tha back
up, and soak over night In cold water.
Wrap la clean, white cloth. Put Into
cold water, set on the top of stove and
boil half an hour. Take from the cloth
carefully, ana remove - the backbone.
Serve with a white sauce made hv atlr-
rlng into a teacupful of boiling milk a
teaspoonful of corn starch moistened
with water; add butter, pepper and a
little chopped parsley. Btlr In a beaten
egg and heat one minute. ;-
'i;: R K ST 4 . '
Regardless of Expense.
SARAH Bernhardt always doss things
in a queenly styls. As an example
of her methods, a London book
seller told a diverting story; ' i k
; Ths famous French actress dropped
into his shop ! one morning, and she
bought quite a pile of books, the" prin
cipal himself waltlng-upon the distin
guished lady. Just as' she wss going
out, she took hold of the bookseller's
pencil and asked him something In
French, s ' -,- - - f " -
He did not quite catch hermesjnlng,
so, not seeing , what she 'wanted oa the
Fear That Robs.
Bv Clara Louisa Cnrtihim.
EpPLE of various sects and bo
ilers are beginning of late to say
that fear is the devil. No mat
ter how trite the saying may be
come as mortals waks up to it.
it will never cease to be true. And
how that devil robs the children! From
the moment of the average child's first
fall, when the mother cries out and
picks him up with such manner and
words that he screama with terror, the
instilling of fear goes on. The average
child begins by being care-free, but the
average loving mother undermines that
confidence with the most earnest tn
dustry. The forbidden fruit of the
tree of knowledge is forced upon the
child until his naturally erect, fearless
mental carriage gradually becomes dis
torted, and he stoops and oows to the
inevitable.
When a mother kneels before her child
and asks anxiously: "Are you sure you
f ..1 .11 rlht it.ar? Tfavan'r vmi a rutin
anywnerer ewaiiow ana see ir it nurts
you. , Tour cheeks look so red!" the
little one. although at first considerably
bored at being disturbed so Irrelevant
ly at nis piay, usually Decomes rorceo
to introspection and often ends by
fretful repose In the arms of tha poor
motner, wniie ner rear quicxiy grows
from a rill to a torrent whose turbu
lence can only be stilled by the kindly
Roob-poohing of the family physician,
o one knows so well ss he the are In
of truth in the comic paper story that
shows the young mother In the middle
of the night begging her husband to
hurry and get the doctor, for the baby
la "breathing so evenly."
To allow fear-ridden .conversation to
take place In the presence of children,
talk concerning sickness or disaster. -la
another molding Influence robbing them
of their gladness, teaching them fear
ful resignation to inimical, lrresistioie
powers. Even though they show no.
evidence or it at tne time, it is sink
ing Into the curious, eager thought and
must bear fruit. It Is strange how lit
tle comprehension Is exhibited even
among the highly Intelligent of what
robs the children. How many little
ones today, if they could express hem
selves, would tell of their suffering In
becoming acquainted with the villain
ous-looking, hoarsely yelling - pirate ;
band in the otherwise charming play
of "Peter Pan!" No child under S
should have had his nervous - system !
shocked bv these gentlemen and their
awful captain. . . 1
pr. Lowell Mason, ths father of
chhrch muale In America, used to say
thtt It was like giving a baby, brandy 1
to let him hear loud and exciting music f
Only gentle and melodious harmonies
should be played to children, he averred. .
I wonder what that great and good man 1
wuuiu nave loougni naa ne witnesses t
hundreds of babies' eyes dilated by the
sight of Captain Hook - of the pirate
band, with the green light turned on his
dreadful face.
The abuse of the word Afraid" makes
one wish that parents would strike it
from their vocabulary. If they would
cease, in the daily routine of life, from
putting pictures of fear Into young
minds, there would not so often be seen
that pathetic sudden vanishing nt a-lnd.
ness from a child's eyes while (he pained
effort to understand what thara la tn ha .
afraid of takes its place.
Following up the idea that it is bet
ter to ten a cnna what he may rather
than what he may not do nna win ah.
stain-from the oueruloua "Da jarri .
dp be careful," which is too often an Ir
ritating, tnomy neoge hampering a
Child s . natural movemnnta and win
let him have his freedom as far as
fear transforms life. We know what
it Is that the Bible says casts it out
"perfect love." As one's love rrnai
toward perfection, one's fears dwindle
In proportion, and if we manifest real
love we shall lust so far mu . tn
the children, and as they are trained to
know the power of "the greatest thing
in the world" a salutary effect will bo
seen in their own treatmon nt anim.i.
They will learn In their tura that to
create, fear Is to turn away from
heaven and happiness. When Jesus
said. "Or such Is the kingdom of
heaven." he did not refar tn tn.
educated little one. but to the simple.
uiiuuuuuuK nuui ui ins unspoiled, child
thought. 'Let the little onea noma, un,
me and forbid them not," Forbid them
not to believe that an Infinite Father
is behind all their natural optimism and
confidence and that he, being omnipo
tent. Is able to care for them to the
exclusion of every giant fear set up la
mortal thought Appleton's - Magaxlne.
counter, the great Sarah, oulok as
flash, took down a volume of an ex
pensive edition bound In tree calf,
opened it. scribbled something on the
black leaf, tore it out, and arter bann
ing t to the bookseller, smiled, and
sauea out.
It was a pass to her performance that
evening; but she had mined the most
expensive set i poor in m siiop.
I
- About Canning Tomatoes.
. . HOUSEWIFE who has tried both
A methods of canning, cooking for
about 20 minutes and cooking for
an hour Or more, says: "Whenever I
have canned tomatoes, I have found
tha they have kept all right when well
eooked. whether the fruit was from
sound or partly decayed stock, and that
they have "fermented when slightly
eooked.' whether over or under-ripe,
though over-ripe fruit, slightly cooked.
may fermeht sooner than under-ripe.
Thcrafnra I think that to avoid fer
mentation after canning. thorough
cooking - Is much more important than
tne degree or ripeness oi mo irmi.
tomatoes are cooked long enough to
expel the air from the seeds it would
seem that they are by that time suf
ficiently sterilised to keep. If properly
sealed, Independent or any previous fer
mentation, i nave oiirn recuoMj mu
resealad the contents of defective Jars
after lnclnlent fermentation, and such
fruit has always kept without further
. ' St S . . ,
. ' . What Women Can Do.' t
THERB is a little woman. In Ne
I Tork who earns her living by con-
, ducting blind people about
Mrs. Agnes E. Paul Is a ward snper-
mtenaent or tne c-nicago street clean
ing department - - . ,i,sVvv-.r .'".'.; .;: .i
Miss Mary A. Stubbs of Indianapolis,
was appointed head of the Indiana State
Bureau or statistics -some time ago.
Mrs. Ogden McClurg, a. daughter-in-law
of the late Colonel A. C. McClurg,
of Chicago, recently secured papers to
set as pilot on a ooat on XjAH Mich
igan., , : . . .
-To have discovered more stars than
any one else In the world Is the repu-
uuoo ox jnisa uoromes jkiumpxa, an
American girl astronomer, who won re
nown for herself st Parla Bines 1SBS
Miss Klumpke has devoted herself to
taking- photographs of the heavens from
a . balloon, v . : -
Mra Frank Woodward, of St. Charles,
Michigan, earns a considerable sum of
money each season shooting nlvn. rinti-,(. t,ri'
Last winter Mrs. vri.!w,ir.i r" "iri"l I I r: -n i ,f up
front the state JO'U lur t.. ;' a.
198 wolves, which were killed by herself
and her husband. (.: .;
Miss Leah Klein represents a Chicago'
grain company In the Merchants' Ex
change of Memphis. Tennessee. She Is
?ir! rti!L of fVTet she goes on,
the floor of the exchange and buys and?
sells ss complacently as ths oldest
member, ....... .--vx
In maktnsr a r-lntm aa-!,. . ... ,
.e oer Tm,t.hr Mrs .Aurora B. Kronck
2J..UlgL Ba!I'1 ? h,ul Performed
services for her in the capacity of can
vasser, housekeeper, manager, draughts
man, saleswoman, solicitor, nurse, su
perintendent, coachman. v.Vm. '
Pnl-bookkeper' eretary-treasurer,
'Ae.C,t0Per,r' Pe-nmaker. dress!
hang erand painter.
Reforming a nail.
about
60 years ago, with a long, narrow
hall St One Side, With atatra e-nlna-
stralght up almost directly in front of
the front door and a door at the foot
' stairs leading intq the parlor.
This is so very common an arrangement
in country, houses built from JO to SO
y?r,,-"? that I give herewith my
of thS0rJn?kln f podem living room
of the parlor and hall. Take part of
Ind .1U1Kn .V? betrn the hall
as the partition also forms one side of
tne doorway, on , removing H a very
rl doorway is formed. Part of this
large opening will be taken "up by the
stairway which Is not mov.tT, but a
rail is placed along the side of the
fi",. Lher h Partition once was, a
r i! in to wraspond with the ratiW
which was always On the other side f
the stairway. The final effect will be
to throw the parlor and hall Into one
room. ::.. . . .
t H
: 'A Valuable Document
AN Anglo-Indian, says an English
newspaper, gave the following
"character to his native cook who
exhibited -It with much complacency!
"This servant has been with ma tr,r i
months. It leeraj much lons?r. 1 '
leaves me on account nt 111 h:ri.
ill heal tli." '
ss st m :
S.uo That Ktxit.
a vn wny in Keep notice ;
11 r"i" rrom rt!s?))e in f put A !
of soot-,1:! a j-nil ,f ),
I U ia a
1