THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING. :AY El 1CC3.
n v n
Jo Bfytirly paslpiopable
fye jflatrial$ of Voir
5Kirt ai?d jacKt Tu5t $09-
tra5t. 5mart Eeeeptriq
itis of Sr.TOip.
Mis pi ?oats of
; p6rpadotir SilK Uill B?
l6f'i? Uitl? Auslip
Q0VU95.
I ye have not at least en nttl
sepsrele Jacket Included In yr Sum
mer octet ra nt rptr the oml
dea at oae-Jof Ma prepar to feel dls-
imouy -oot
For coat of material qnit at variance
wltt) th rest of the gowa ar the very
saartest ward la this season's fashion
Veeabulary.
Flctnreeqo Leola eoata of satla
Bewared ellka wtll be worn with frilly mus
lin at afternooo aiTalri; with evening
gown ' will b donned . moat elaborate
affair of laee, eanght together with smash
ing satla bows or atrandt of metal rib- "
tons.' For morning wear there are eoata
f linen, braided and embroidered, to be
tvtnu Oddly enoogb, with skirts e( eoarse-t
aneshed net. Or, ts reverse th schema at
things, Jackets of set, closelj braided,
complete costumes of lines. With dreeaee
af foulard are provided little Jacket of
some thin cloth lined with" the foalard of ,
the dress, " , Ob, I aaeure you. the odder
and mora daring the con treat of drasa and
coat, the mora eMof
And the trimmings used are almost as
fantastic aa the garments themselves. Dyed
M- ft &i
" ! ' ' ' " v
(a
m'AT 1' 11 n "
It I
A Coat of Net, Hev3y
Braided and Bordered
With Embroidered Linen
Bands.
, C Jacket of Taieta Silk,
Cut on Novel Lines.
D An Up-to-Date Model
of a Braided Jacket.
WHY DO WE APE EURO
PEANS? By M. John A. Logan
B Smart lit
tle Jacket of
Grey and Black
Tussore, Trim
med " With
Black Satin
Bands and
Lace.
iaev la lasset la Horn of the aame ehade.
braiding is eonstsetlr esed with a Urlsh
band. VullUnge of aatla, ribbon pot on la
large wberla and wblrls ornament tha mora
eUborete Jackets. Rope-hie trimmings of
eblrred a!lk are need ererjwbere. Catching
together tba alasbrd. sklrta of long jacketa
are elaborate oraamenta of braid,' Large
llnen-eoYered battona, bud-caabroldered la
Oriental eolortigs. bedeck jaunt line
eoata. .
' Wtlie tb strictly lei:or-maCr suit , t
a&lct fc4 oet at tba suuns natarlaJ la
perennially with na ana arwaye ane
this year there ta no occasion to bare each
a monotony et toae. jFor yoa wilt be safe
In ordering a skirt of plaid or checked
cloth and eoat of plain material harmon
ising in color, or vice torsa. . You may hava
i plain eloth skirt and a Jacket of check.
In either case 70a may feet yooreelf just a
wee blt ahead at the eonaerratlee women
who orders a ditta Of her laat 8prlnga
ault and thinks it'a all rlht. . i-
But, already bulla of cloth seem things
f tba pul SV'a art muca mora laUrastel
:''.'-''"--.
fa anticipating tba dog day of Angnit, and
In Imagination clothing ourselves In all
the Sammer chiffons, which will have for
a background the, strong greens of ' leafy
trees, the warm glow of Bummer roeea.
The separate coats of this Summer need
not add ranch to.. oar temperature each
alight and dainty things many of them are.
Mere skeleton! of garments they eeem,
hanging out In tba back, eat away sharply
in front ad without sleeres. Coats of lace
are often made on this model much like
the one shown in fha aketch marked "A."
only In this case there are .aleee'e looee
banglng things which allow tba ' cinder-
sleeve to appear. f " , " , "
Tbla la a particularly good model to
Illustrate some of the points which I bare
already mentioned Hera wa bare a coat
of net, heavily brajded and banging In
graceful folds. Edging It is a, band of
linen, which b) again -embroidered.: The
large ornament of braid ta " bara, With
awltglng taaaei - Tili coat ie" destined for ;
wear with mnsltn frocks or, with a ona
pleca dresa of linen. It la sultabla for
afternoon wear or, aecordlog to our aeme
what elaborate ideas at present, for nsa
during the morning bonra. r'-v''J''y"'y-;
It would ba difficult t find a mora at
tractive little eeparata Jacket than that
pictured la tba figure lettered "a" It Is
a modal which speaks tba result of a
Frenchmas's clever Angers In every Una.
Made of a beaatlful quality of tussore
ellk. It baa alternate broad atrtpea of gray
and black. Tba revere, which are to gen.
Mil that tbay extend nearly under the khakl-eolored taffeta alik and Is worn with!
arm. are of Venlae lace, outlined with a skirt of cloth of the same tone. This la,
black satin. Tba fanciful little sleeves' a color which Parisians are wearing with,'
have tight underaleevas of the same ef- much $lee Jnst now. Tbey combine It wltbj
fectlve lace, and are trimmed with black the most Ylvld greens and sometimes with;
satin bands. The ineviUJbla bit of braiding abadee of brown. America , women da-'
appears In Varge ornaments ostensibly fas
tening the front and . In fancy links of
braid which connect the revers under the
arms. For one ef the novel feature of
this design IS that the back boasts revers
as well aa tba front, certainly an original
Idea. '
Lingerie touches ara found on many rot
tames, apd what Is more charming and .
dainty V The little frilla of one mull,
which, depending -from the Inside , of , the
hat . brlma, are such a quaint fancy aad ,
cllaa to be fascinated by It, however.
There ara few ' tnaterlala ' that may
not this year ba broughtInto requisition
for naa In separata coats. Blfck aatla
made on Loots XIV. lines will be popular
wlth'nomen who have to practise econ
omy,' for these black . satla garments will
ba sultabla for almost any occasion. With '
dresses of colored , voiles very elaborate
little looee Jackets ef eat In the eame shsde
ara being worn. . Colored aatina are mad
up In ' shades of shell pink "and Nattier
blue for wear with moalla frocks.
WZ'f'.rjJ Ona, charming gsrdaa partyut
r:,rJT'' . ro lately bad a dress of moat delicately On
V! 1T V I T 'i?i-tt!1,WB-iaU aipbrolderad and lace trlmmwl.
and Jabot, of law Uwf without whleb n,a a wW, btnit aatla fooUng tba
waUt aeem. complete, th wlda-tarn-down v ,kui Tha rather long, loo.-baoglng
collar of I.e. a.ioa .nd mnalla which Jtcktt ,waj of
the yoonger aiemeat WIU rejoice in tbla ; tB - Mm. MOn, Mth , Biay ta, Uca
year. All these add a freshness to yonr. mfnea la tha alesves and odginglth. front,
appearaaca whl9b Is not ta ba despised, with this was ta ba warn a bat of trans
; A touch of moalla aodMaea ia to.be aeea parent- wblta srsw . trimmed ' with ' over
on the Jacketa marked "D" ia tha form of grow white roses and green satla ribbon,
two shallow re vera. Tbla Is a wonderfully A parasol of Dresden coloring, ' the same
cut little coat tha sort of thing which sea green prominent In the design, was ta
sheold only ba atemp'ted by a master hand, ba' carried. . The only' break in the cool
for on cutting and draping does if depend symphony of green and wblta was a nar
for tta effect Again wa bava tba suggas- row tie of aatla In a peculiar shade of
tlon of tljht nnderaleeve, which In this plaky taauve. This was knotted Just be:
cae U braided to correspond with the low the collar and fell lo. gold-tipped ends
lewer part of tba Jacket. It U made of ta tha waist Una. :
ATiVSi' DFAT1T IIOUj ' plete, anJ they, show that 75 pefsrm
;AXJl p. -.VrMYllK .XtVliU. y font their Uvea In the tYench. 8wN.
Italian and Austrian mountains. The
Germans take the lead in the mortality
record, the English come- second nnd
Kalians third, Th pi extent cause of
rmwhni). frttnl nnd -irtlirrvirlMP, was, aa
uniral, the Insane practice' of undertnk-'
lna; danerouH aaccuta without a uida.
LiMt YeaFa List of Dead and Injured
. . lroiio.sal to :Funith
'.-Ouit'lul tstiitistica for laat yeira accl-
dunta in the Alp ara now about com-
The donOlleat rotlona are tha . Herrieaa
Obrpland, the Urlwma, tha IVnnina
Ch"1n nn1 Monte Ulanc and Rosa.
FoHrteen parsons were killed plcklnsr
who i.oer.. in risky pluses. "Several
of . hef; were women;-and not young
women either In six -casea, ' .1
The . mimhr of serious injuries ' re
cortled, wlucij did not Xttault ia. tiaatb is
(Copyright, 1908, by W. B. Hoarst)
ONE WOULD , think that with : the
frequent Intercouraa with Europe
that Americana would cease to
pay - an much homage to Eu
. rbpeans, and that they would
aoorn the disposition of the people of
the old world to patronise those of the
hew. : Methods and customs which hava
made us a prosperous and progressive
nation should be a sufficient guaran
tee that they are- aafo to follow and
that they ara adapted to our cosmopol
itan population. Of the ' legions who
go abroad, two thirds are ready, to
join in the criticism and condemnation
of Americana and ell western Ideas.
They ape the nobility, no matter how
profligate and degenerate. - The"y .court
the society and recognition of all pre
tenders, who may be many degrees re
moved from the titles their anoestora
enjoyed or how little consideration they
receive from- royalty. r.
' Th moat notorloualy. unfit persona
are received cordially and welcomed aa
8ii i tors for - marriageable daughters.
They seem to think that . the slightest
ctnim to any title invests mem , wun
superiority over the noblest of our own.
countrywomen. -
Doting; parents are ready to. asauma
the debjs of moral and financial bank
rupts, ehdbw their daughters with lib
eral patrimony and allow them to be
come the wives of selfish and unarrup
ulouri' representatives of sullied titles,
seemingly not knowing that sooner or
later thav must interfere to protect
their daughters .from the brutal neglect
of foreign husbands, if not to bring
them home to aave them from untimely
graves. : -. ,. --' -- y ;- - - :
J50r probably the number of all who
were hurt In going through the moun
tains came near to 1,000, but no figures
' are keit unleas bone are broken or
the victim la confined to bed for one or
more, days. . - ,!-.-.,- - '
A proposal which haa been discussed
In former years is now being agitated
again for uniform legislation by. the
governmenta - in whoaa- territorlea tha
Alpa r distributed to reduce th num
ber of mishap. Tha idea Je to make it
an Affense, punishable by B Una and Im
prisonment, to undertake a)ny trip claaa
Ined a danrerou without the aid of
HcenBed guides. Each locality would
be required to prepare a list of tha dan-
frerous peaks and psssea and keep tour
at a posted regarding thorn.-.The moun
tain lie partly in France, fiwltserland.
Italy a-rid -Auatrla, and at present there
la no law at aU to prevent the rawest
Schoolboy from takingf risks tha-t th
.Jiarrtieat-mountaineer shrink from, aa
witness tber rase, of a, young Oermari
etud'-nt who not long 1 ago attempted
lo ascend the Jungfrau by himself, and
'Vtatf' weu t away. t ua avalunLha. .
' We cony Europeans In drean and man
ner, their affectation in society,
amunements. Idea of riding, driving,
yachting, games, athletics and in every
thing they, do or Bay, Our army and
navy are gradually following their
methods and atandards.
1 We have our annual maneuvera and
eneampmenta of our militia, which cor
respond to their reserved corps. We
have a general ataf f of the army, which
correxpond to tho old tlma general and
adjutant general. We he?ar much of
war colleges, where officers ara en-
fageid in the study " Of "atrategy" by
ightlng sangnlnary battle on paper.
Officers on duty at either post, di
vision, - department or general head
quarters must keep up to date In tac
tics, including horsemanship. Sheri
dan, Grlerson and the wonderful cav
alrymen of the civil war were not mora
skillful or graceful on horseback than
are our officers to be In these piping
tmes of pace. Surgeons and veterinar
ians are to be kept buwy with the men
and horse to insure perfection in horse
manship and the mounts of the officers
of the army. ; ,
The navy has somewhat the advant
age of thei army in that there are fewer
thlnga for naval officers to do on
shore. Fearing that the younger offi
cer of the) navy would ruat out, a
rather . formidable - fleet . haa been
equipped at a large expense, and which
ara to maneuver in - western waters,
giving these officer an opportunity to
acquire practical experience and Inci
dentally , exhibit the strength of the
American navy a la European powers,
regardless oft th unfortultous accident
and collision with other nation which
' Testing naval aklll and strength- im
mediately following th eloae - of tho
peace conference-la, to say the least,
rather an incongruous coincident, and
prove that we ara continuing to copy
Europeans, who rely far more upon
their military and naval strength than
they do upon th peace congresses and
arbitration. ' - 1
- If we would copy5 their economy and
frugality It would b a good thing for
the present and future - generations.
They do not, however, encourage this,
in .American, as it would cut down
their richest ource of revenue. - The
socialistic . and . anarchistlo - advocate
who hava coma from the continent of
Europe to our shores have found o
many satellites - that they have been
able to Seriously, disturb' social, and
political condltlona. . .- -
A majority of our people are contin
ually boasting of our national powers
and of the blessing of a Republican
government, but are. at th same time
endeavoring to ' Imitate Imperialism in
every possible way. We should live up .
to our- much heralded Independence bv
refusing to be Imitator of thlnga which
are un-American and without merit and
also at variance with . Republican, prin-
cUUej and institution. . -
'" :.-! rc.; -'v:;