THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, . PORTLAND. SUNDAY MORNING. AP:L 10. 1003.
SR5
i I
r n c ; . n ' :
ears
re
ff
l Lj
. ' 1
. 1 1
Tins Year s Fabrics A
A L M I.
Particularly Suited to
Youthful Dresses; Tight,
Short Sleeves ana1 Tuckers
Lend a Quaint Air to Up-tp-Date
Frocks
r
rS always something of a problem
for mother, this question of suit
able clothe for to laughter of
rt II.
Olrle of that age ere apt to hav
rstber decided opinion on th subject
of frocks an4 frill with th emphasis
on th frill for with tru feminine
Instinct they Ion for ruffles of foamy
lac and glint of eeoulne and cannot
.-see th fore of waiting for their for
mal doming out" to don thorn. . ;
Happily moat mother ar firm in
th conviction of their own good taat
on thin point and Insist on implicit? of -attire,
which does not at all mean that
7- their dresses may not ba all --that ia
r ratty and effeetiva Every on kooWs
hat in simplicity often Ilea th great
oat chle,
Thla year's filmy materials atom to
hare been woven with apecial thought
for th girl in tier teen, ao dainty and
' youthful looking are many of them. ,
Nets, bordered with contrasting color
and garlanded with flower; allk mull,
flower-etrewn and haying atrlpea of
wide ribbon-like aatln; crepes of varloue
, weaves and delicate coloring, mouas
. line ds sola, and all th lingerie mate
rials male charming gowns for lnfor-
Hair
Rittons
Worn in a
New and
Becoming
Fashion
J
fen-
n
0
11
Ruff led "Skirts Are
Revived for Girls in
: : ,- ', t rf: . ' ..... . - "T " - (
eir l eens
It might be worn at Informal evening
affalra it would be Quite aa aultabl for
afternoon. HI mad of marqultte
In Pekln blue with banda and bows of
Liberty satin In' a deeper ehade, A
gutmpe effect of white allk and mull
relieve It at the top. This might b
evolved in silk muslin or other thin
materials, using lsc insertions instead
t J '
n
Z 1JT7'iO n th skirt and on tho
bands of th waist. Th little bows on
sleeves and ths wide lorsag bow
could be pf aatln or silk as desired.
Crepe de chin Is ud In Lthe con
struotion pf the quaint Uttl are Ut
t1. P- 1Ur w the tucker
if? Jn tnt lst one of the prt.
tlet of revived old-tlm fahlon. rThs
7t ".u wun a. oarr ot cnirron,
'".i"0 .f na o-wif ing at tne side.
, Th ribbons of colors and of gold and
Silver threaded through the ha"r which
have been auch a feature of this sea
son s coiffure decorations are quite tha
mot beoomlng thing to girl of lx
teen and thereabout . But where their
elder wear these ribbon run through
th hair and tied in a bow in front or
at ona aide suggeatlra of Mme. Le
Brun. th "maiden of bashful fifteen-'
haa discovered for hersslf a moitorlu
inal method of arrangememnt.
Reversing ths order of things, she
allows the ribbon to appear here and
there through the pompadour In front,
but at the back it emerges and is tied
In the most alluring, coquetlsh butter-
l w- - Vi1"1 " htlned ths
dignity of "don up" -ahe bow nestles
above or below the Jittle bunch of
curl. If her hair Is to be worn slm-pl-
tid back, th effect is fully as
good.
A young girl's head with crlep, ahln
Ing hair la apt to bs fascinating, hut
1 11 vsntura to wager with th addition
of on of thes suood It would prov
Irrsslstlbl.
)3
aX
1
11 things this dress Is kept dainty and
.'.youthful.. On the other side the ribbon
is used, in the suspender form, minus
the bow. But I rather suepect Unit
bow was stolen for use on the skirt, for
there it is, fastened to the insertion at
the head of ths ruffles. The ribbon Is
pf suppls eatln In . deeper shade of yel
low than th dress. ,
-Almost any thin material could be
Used successfully for this dress, pro
vided one without stiffness was chosen,
for the ruffles on tne skirt demand
oft, hanging lines. 'or an inexpensive
dress nothing better could be found, for
you will -see that only a few yards of
lace and ribbon are require Jn Its
trimming ani yet the originality of Its
design lifts It out of the commonplace.
Of lovely lingerie frocks for youthful
wearers of course there are no end.
Mulls, batistes and organdies are all
used In their construction, with fine
tucking, fagoting and laca inserting,
Valenolennes lace, German or French, is
tnost suitable for these dresses, al.
though cluny and baby Irish may be
need with discretion snd Mechlin Is deU
oate enough to bo appropriate.
A Dancing Frock of Yellow Silk Muslin. .
B Valenciennes Lace Forms a Deep Flounce on a Drew of White Net
C Cojlarless Frock of Pekin Blue Marquisette.
D Quaint Little Dress of, Pink .Crepe de Chine.
E Lingerie Gown With Clever Arrangement of Tucking and Insertion,
in design and coloring, those having
flowered borders being particularly
suitable for the young girl. White,
with a deep, pink border, garlanded
with field daisies and wild pink roses.
n gum inula- Brows lor a imr TlOt
outrv If was fashioned quite simply
with a little delicate lace and a pink
satin girdle, and with it was worn a
wreath of daisies and pink ribbon In
the hair.
Dotted net Is used for the dress let
tered "B." The striking feature of this '
frock is ths deep flounce of Valon
clenne lace which is set on Irregularly
to the net skirt, Tho waist with Us
round-cut neck has sleeve to be com
mended for their originality, combining
with the more - familiar : over-drapery,
A touch of color is given in the llttls
tale of blue velvet ribbon caught with,
turquoise buttons which ornsment th
skirt and waist, Ths under sleovos r
formed of bands of Insertion and tha
velvet ribbon pnt together and a belt
Of two shades of turquoise blue Is used, '
A narrow band of Valenciennes . lacs
outlines ths nerk.
. Of quit different effect are t.hs
frocks pictured In '.'C" and "D," While
Colored , girdles will be worn with
'white 'frocks by young girls, and the
fashionable scarf, made of chiffon in
pale colors, -will T)e knotted about slfrn,
young waists, the ends hanging at one
sid.
In the figure "E" 1 a somewhat elab
orate, lingerie dress, although the fine
hand tucking forms its principal elab
oration, Made of fine mull, the skirt
has a double flounce at the bottom.
Above these flounces are horizontal and
perpendicular tucklnga, headed and
crossed by insertions of Valenciennes.
The skirt Is made without fulness at
ths top.
The waist has a square cut neck and
sleeves with no fulness at all. It Is
mads all of fine run tucks with Inser
tion used again In a novel way. The
rather wide folding girdle Is . of coral
pink silk. ; .
Nets, dotted, figured, flowered and
plaint are this year having more vogue
than ever. Nor Is it to be wondered at
when you. consider how suitable thev
are for the long clinging lines on which
gowns are built.
Some of the bordered nets are lovely
tr, XiL. A?nY fodei which ar shown
in the illustrations seem to have at
tained the fortunate result of combin
ng wmpiidty with good lineiTaBd orlg
Jmil moues Of. trimming. All theee
fowns si; signed with the youth?
of th prospective wearers in
L',1Vd' J!l tk,r' "r hrt and e?v
1 1? lh hSmi th wal"t" ro made
'Hh sllrttiy low-cut neck and sortull
irsr of the niateril In front.
V'..'l'01n V' ftur 'tterod A
!s t u ticilarly auracUve and would be
j.v.ih! of corj Inc in a number of ma-i-rij.ii
The .rlffinal Is tt yellow silk
f Mt w.ft shade -Wn Jn th
) .ji!e(i i !fth (,f sojtt The' ruffles
v',t t.- nuut i,ih ate put on S
aj o: iinal way ar simply
hemmed. The lace" Is "Valenolennes of
rather pronounced design.
ihe waist of th frock Is mad on a
arefullv fitted lining, as th wide glr
i effect in front can only b obtained
boning. Ths round neck, without
rill or tucker, is characteristic of many
or the best French models and la most
beoomlng to youthful necks. . Tho dra
pery hanging low on the arm conceals a
clOfw fitting sleeve of lace. ,
Could ribbon b uut to more effective
us -than: It Is on this little frock
t iming ftom under th wide folded gir
oj ..t the back It rune over the shoul
der, lying broad at the turn of. the arm,
anaeuds in flow and long hanging ends
top of (ho girdle in front Th '
wr f'rt touched with gold em-,
broiaery Uu merest ouoto, fo- aboy
USES OF SEAWEED
1 From th New York Sun.
Seaweed has gene out of fashion a
good deal of. 1st years. This applies
to it not merely as an article, for dec
orating village parlors but as a can
didate for more' useful careers' '
, Seaweed asheS; wer Once used for
making alkali to be employed in soap
fif &! mak,n. nA ft was actually
the chief sou roe of the supply of io
dine. Other seaweeds were so mucilag
inous they were mads into artificial
horn and shell. .
Kelgrass, which Is, a variety of sea
weed, was used for stuffing mattresses,
snd even for -sheathing houses. Other
kinds were and to some extent still are
used as food for human beings as Well
ns for cattle. . Irish or carrageen moss
Is employed 1b making Jellies. ,
Dulse la by o nit-ana scorned as'ftit
article of diet y tho poor j)pnpl on
toe, eoasts of ' IrelaAdi aud footland. .
Bometlmea H. is eaten raw, sometimes
roasted or with vinegar.
It I a standby with the Icelanders,
who store it In casks and eat It with
fish. ; In : th winter when forage Is
scarce deer go down the rocks at low
tide and get a, meal off the seaweed.
Tangle la a variety with so wooly a
stem that when It Is dry some of th
country , folks abroad use It for knife
handles. .They stick, the blade In when
the seaweed is soft. As it dries and
shrinks it holds the metal fast.
But most .of these uses have ceased
to exist Other means of producing the
aJPl rult- have beep discovered
which do it cheaper end better. When
It took 89 tops of seaweed to produce
eight pounds of iodine, there certainly
was a chance to improve on the method "
Of late years the chief use to which"
seaweed has been put In this country
Is s a fertiliser, and In this direction
the department of agrlcqlture has made
some interesting ,,; Investigations. ' . As
seajveeft taken 1 1 recti y from the -rorka
contains about 80 pet; ent of water.
and as it is most valuable for fertilis
ing when It Is only partially dried. It is
clear that It is useful ,for that purpose
only along the coast. But It has been
carried night or ten miles Inland and
etui used ef f ectually, . ' .
It Is a particularly good fertiliser for
suoh crops aa potatoes and cloven which
require plenty of potash. It Is said that
there Is no place in New England where
red clover grows so well as near Rye
beach, where the soil has been fertilised
with seaweed aver . since the country
was settled. In that locality It per
petuates Itself and grows on the same
land year after year without reseedlng.
A recent conference between "Presi
dent Compere of the American Federa
tion of iAbor and representatives of the
International " Stagn Kmployes',1 union
and the Brotherhood of Electrical
"Workers amicably settled the conten
tions heretofore arising over- the Juris-:
i lot t,jn over ' Kin e employes operating
electric "contrivances, such -as mnvinv
picture shows.
SELF-HELP AT COLLEGE.
About Half the Students Have to
Work Their Way Through. : .
- There are 76 students in the Uni
versity of North Carolina and the latest
report of the president. Francis P. Ven
able. says:
"It is probably a conservative esti
mate to say that one-half of the total
number of students either earn or bor
row in; part or in whole, the money
needed for their education."
It is. of course, not a particularly new
thing to Ind thai students In an Ameri
can university are working their way
through, but the figures of olf-he!p at
North Carolina are significant. If : for
nothing else than the variety of things
done by the students. A table In the
president's report shows that ti stu
dent who- returned statements earned
i wo or- mess - men - acted' asifleh
dealers and made 50 between them.
pn hair cutter earned the average of
300. , w "
Aw organ pumper made $1S. Two
VPf. .OVn. orwl (i.l.l.l - a fv.
were 16 students who acted as waiters
11 WJ' houses and earned altogether
11,860, a better average than 27 men
who worked. Jn the university commons
and got 91.08.
President Venablo finds that the cost
Of living for the students has increased,
a change which, he says "Is simply in
keeping with the changed standards of
living of the times. "i ,; Seven year ago
the man at. North Carolina who had t;
scholarship had expenses of I1B0 a year,
for others the sum was 1100 greater.
-These figures have increased Just
about $100 each since then. Preslclent
Venoble llnds. There In a loan fund at
orth Csrollna which in the year "
Iassed helped f,S students to, the extent
, of mure than f 4,200. , . ' ,
Twfntr ijiche br "enow fell near Gran
ite within 10 days recently. ."...