THE rOREGONT SUNDAY JOURNAli- PORTLANDr' SUNDAY MORNINGS- MARCH; 1, 1608. ,
y v l
..y ; '" "y-':";y.'v:k yy-v yv. fi -. .y-y
b , m mm
ujaant hi i m rm ma m iil. in mm m m n m
nil nrm zr II II 1 I 1111 l.n 1V 1
ttjttfffl I ? '"'rf D A Semi-Princesi Model Vlh J r VL
II 1 1 1 1 1 1 E Blue Serge Cutaway EJp PS" 2!--'
'NJ uoatl Will Be Worn With I bl S
Gowns Worn at Soutkern Resorts
yf Strike tke Key of tke Coming
Summer Models. Tke Jumper
Dress
Is
Again
to Be
Vorn
Beau
ty of
tke
' J
New
Bor-
dered
Mate-
rials
1KB tb IlttU boy in Kipling's fa
I moua limerick, we may be burled
I Id snow to our neck; we nay be
' asTeloped In fura or near-fur
' ' S 'from the top of our lynx toque
to the toe of our patent-leather shoe;
,'we may be eliding over Icy pavementa
'with teeth chattering, but ta the world
of faahlonable elothes aumroer la In full
' wjng ' 1 r
' Iff yon don't, believe it, Juat glance In
the ahop windows. One brief look will
eon t1 nee yott that to evince the allght
et Interest la winter clothes Is to label
yourself far behind the times.
' . Tou - may clasp frosty finger tips
.avlUiln the shelter of your muff, "but
iaaean while you nust gate with rapture
a diaphanous muslins, suggestive of a
temperature of 100 In the shade. Tou
',tnay dash la for a cup of steaming
hooolate, but while gratefully sipping
It. you . mast talk only of straw hats
aad those ducks of new parasols, my
dear," to the friend perched on a stool
teslde you. . Oh, If we can't all "'go
'outh" we can at least talk It!
For It Is for those butterfly beings
who find It Impossible to exist In a
northern climate at this season of the
year that all these flower-laden hats
and cobwebby tropical fabrics are pre
pared. But far from being envious of
them, one should he most grateful, for
, do they not give us hints months In ad-
- vanee of what will be worn next sum-
, mert'yy'-'y'." '
True, It Is only, as a little actress
used to sing, "an Inkling, Inkling, ink-'
, llng."t Time la the only sure arbiter
of what wlll eventually prove "the
thing"' In the Important matter of
. clothes. ' Bui for thoae who keep their
etyea fairly wide open now la the time
. for them to gather much Information
which- will prove useful later on. It
' may even afford them a chance to
make use of the dearly loved "There! I
told you ao!"
' If you are "picking up" dress lengths
1 to be made up for spring and summer
wear, I am sura you are 'quite bewil
dered by the beauty of the patterns of
the new materials. In voiles, in loose
ly woven canvas. In muslins and n
Ilks the iatuffs with borders are with
out number and in such charming de-
signs and richness of .coloring that even
the most critical must be silenced.
They are. dfstlnctly the novelty of
the season io far, and suggest all man
ner of delightful possibilities in their
making up. The borders are in nearly
' all caaea wide, and on rausllna they are
. sometimes printed, but on all heavier
materials are woven. Greek key pat
i terns in contrasting color and rich ori
ental designs are found on voiles and
' silks. "Muslins bear the daintiest-wide-i
borderings of flower wreaths and gar
lands, and satin stripes woven in.
Chiffon cloths have perhaps the, most ,
striking decorations of satin stripes and
woven eatln deslgna.
Dressmakers will have many oppor
tunities to display their Ingenuity in
using these border efiecta. Of course,
the plr.lted skirt with the border at the
bottom is an obvious arrangement. But
in overeklrts, of Which we will see
many later on, there wlll be more
scope for original ideas.
Some very charming borders are
found among thel linens, which this year
are to the fronfcwlth various brand
new weaves. The several toned stripe,
fyhlch, by the way, promises to be sad
y common, la seen in linens Intended
for tailored gewns. And a new weave
closely Imitating rajah silk comes In
attractive plain colors lavenders, pinks
and blues.
Coats and skirts nf linens are as pop
ular as ever at Florida resort i, and
there seems no falling off in the smart
wearing of the Jumper frock. So one
may conclude that it will be with us
through another summer. And what
woman will net rejoice? The Jumper
drees solves so' many problems. It is
the happv medium between the too In
formal white waist and the stiffness of
an all linen or silk frock, and It has
proved itself suitable for many occa
sion. In the Illustration are shown three .
little Jumper frocks whose wearers have
been - for some time disporting them
selves under southern skies. They il
lustrate very well the points in which
this year's Jumper dresses differ from
those worn last summer, although, to
be quite frank, the Jumper frock of 190S
bears a strong resemblance to that of
1907.
The skirts again escape the ground
and are side-pleated. They very often
have for trimming blaa bands 'of the
same material put on at some distance
from , the skirt hem. The waists are
made with square, round or V-shaped
openings for the gulmpe. although the
"V" opening down low, to .give a good
view of the Jabot adorning the front of
the gulmpe, promises to be popular.
Sleeves of the material of the rest of
the dress, showing a line of white em
broidery or lace ruffling where they
end below the elbows, will be more
often dsed than the white gulmpe
sleeve.
Soutache braiding on linen will be in
good style, although embroidery dis
creetly applied and Cluny and Irish
crochet lace will also be seen Jumper
dresses of the semi-princess model will
be much liked.
Such a gown is pictured in the
sketch lettered "D."n nd would
be particularly becomttfg to the
woman of too few Inches, for the
long, unbroken line from gulmpe
to skirt hem gives height. Made of li
lac colored linen, It has a plaited skirt,
finished only with a stitched hem. The
front of the waist Is really made In one
with the front panel of the skirt, for
above the waist line it widens out and
buttona up onto the rest of the waist
with six buttons, three on either side
a quito novel arrangement. The nar
row stitched belt which runs around
the waist at the back buttona onto the
panel front at either elde.
The sleeves are simple and not over
large, ending in- a plain band cuff. There
Is a little delicate embroidery on the
rate aj oats or )vfi ar;rie
Blue Serge, Are 0OYji
Witk Skirts of Rajak Sili
sBSSBSBMBSSSlSlBSasSBSBSl
J-.:.. V-
v r ' V 'y. :yVyyjV;v; ' . -y
E Blue Serge Cutaway
Coats Will Be Worn With
Linen Dresses on Chiljy
Summer Mornings.
front of the waist end the linen-covered
buttons are embroidered, in white. The
Jabot Is of Irish lace, mounted on fine
Mull. But it is on the gulmpe that all
manner of extravagances may be lav
ished and I must admit that fair wom
en is not backward in taking advantage
''f her opportunities in this line,
i Tn ''nest .hand embroidery, alternat
ing with real baby Irish insertion, roost
delicate of Cluny real, of course and
Valenciennes of design and soft Ivory
color most delicious no lace Is thought
too fine, no hand embroidery considered
too elaborate to put upon the gutmpes.
47rsst ,t8elf may be simplicity per
sonified, but the gulmpe makes up for
it. But the gulmpe of this lilac frock
was really modest it was on simple
hand embroidery done on fine linen
lawn.
Fin white soutache braiding, on pale
yll0 ""en. distinguishes the dress in
the sketch lettered B. It has the sug
gestion of the kimono sleeve, which will
this year be agalu seen, with modifica
tions. The skirt is plaited and has a
band of braiding above the hem.
The third linen Jumper frock Is of
fine green and white stripes, trimmed
with bias bands and buttons covered
with embroidered linen, large and amall.
Thla shows the opening to the waist
l.lne, both back and front, and two
pointed capes over each sleeve. The
plaited skirt, which is trimmed wth
two uihb Dtinas, is auacnea 10 me wais
under a belt of linen.
com is liitisrraTan. in rniM ir i
made on a Louis "modal, with Jabot
UI 'HIBUH V.WCLIS VVAkll BUUU Cmi lB, W , V
gilt buttons or with cretonne-covererfl
outions are seen on many of the ne
isuorea linen suits.
which he has perfected
HOW ABOUT OUR ARMY A "MTV 7VTAVV7 13 -having system
- - a. m. a. a i jl-t x w x A. T X m"mm JLJ V ror his own use,
XT T 1 A T I m an old dog and I learn few new
iTlrfl. lOhn M I jndart Promotion on a younger or less experi- JI1C"' J10 "I'mng a sarety raso
JVLilx -L X.t JJUydll mim4 Mrun " is one of the manv modern accomnllsh
-nr. v,.. w- .t..n.. jt . ment3 which I cannot boast. I stick
are Inte liasnt and educat.il ffiPr- "'"T"'" to ' the old-fashioned inclement an
iv .nmeiu?nrtaTx I?1 other Pef'ect: may yet return to them more rapidly
wJEZ?J??Jll&y lhe."ame na.tl?"J than we left them. Expensive experf-
u in meats may prove the expediency of
A Coats Made of Cretonne Are
Smart and Picturesque and Will Be
. One of the Fads of the Coming
Summer. ?
B Jumper Dress of Yellow Linen
Finely Braided With White Sou
tache..
C This Dress of Green and White
Striped Linen Has tb Low V-
m . f i ' - '
I bavfca Uptons
TO QUIET observers, the practice
recently adopted of attending
European military and naval ma
neuvers and bringing to our army
and naval organisations many of
the methods and regulations used by
. other nations is rather puxxling. .
Our army and navy are organized on
an entirely different basis, the person
nel of officers and man are altogether
of a different character, and It s dif
ficult to understand the application of
foreign principles. As a mattejr of
fact, our entire forces on land atfd sea
are volunteers for the defense of a na
tion of freemen, while foreign armies
and navies are made up of subjects who
are obliged to give so many years of
their Uvea to the support of the crown.
The pay of American soldiers and
sailors Is far better than that of either
the officers or men of both branches of
any other country on the globe, and it is
possible there will soon be an Increase
in the pay of all who wear American
uniforms.
American inventions have been quite
as fruitful la furnishing Improvements
in munitions of war as any other na
tion. If we had "confined ourselves to
we would probably be quite aa advanced
as we are ty using roreign ones.
- Our military and naval schools have
turned out as able officers as has" any -
suit u IM wona. an enustaa soaa
pride and patriotism.'
-V "i"'" "D0,..BB1.nst tn introauc- some hastv movement
nun of rn non n rnnr n n vm t i ah h , j l . . . . .
with mr.A . , iT , tarn wisuuni inn men woo nave naa
w 1. cnerve the interests to do with public affairs since the
foundation of the government, and the
have accumulated some fine specimens?
"These Ivory-handled ones I bought
in Ensrland. and as I reaard them as!
the choicest ones I have I 'use them'
only on Sundays and holidays. No. l.'j
he pointed to a mark on one handle, "
use on the second and fourth Sunday!
a l use on tnej
of monarchtal rulers
The American victories of the ia.t l"iu X XT KTS'a ".K I"' . on hoUdays. No.
?a.nn.?;f.n bX.vPuro,y American tac- public has borne a rich harveat for the n"hi?tr'i,n.J t
tics and skill. The great armies that Imiriun nwnin Tt miini t h. That gives t
Km?r1cdgenVlh,,eh th Pr0dUCt fi 0 on To? he act f shaving which i
A It is but iSgical to assume that the ?Cn,l "Jl ' (rMrt It to Imw? hrdon thra' ,n the W!"
American army and navy, organised on int that the changes shall be mada EsPc"y, the avjrage man s method
the borrowed principles of foreign gov- Sfter gvrdelfbera "Wii'TlSlM.yi
tvaaanta t1rmm ffnt w h Am tha . w waavwavan as uvuvsnw.
victim.
"Even the most careful sharpening:
a very sus-u
ZtJ?" Me" i'"""?,-representatives, from whom the execu
.V . , : '''" imvr wiiibyo tive receives power to act.
r2JL ?.r victories or be more Invincible. One arand -quality of
Well-organised as our army and navy", rhrs-tr
are. there will aasuredlv be new lnarlsla- hiKh
tlon fixing the duties of officers of find we are
every rank In the army and navy. Many success,
think that there -will also be legislation ..
restoring tne em metnoa or promotion
arand - quality of American -"Si.. ?"5?
ea'n rt?aca 'ow itSE if w2 eeptlble and pwcarious condition. Foil
o,ttr?h2 w,riP,8 V that reason f never sharpen my rasoS
- - - lust rutrora l anavn. iin tn pontrarvK
I sharpen It when I have , finished!)
Then I put it carefully m its case and
ana to. reutr
briVty'tr.-.ha sh7ng"of GIVE YOUE KAZOB EEST. g Q
the eeprtt de corps of both army and . , ..v!f?p I 1 Li'
naw that has had severe shocks la late "lou strop a raior vigorously and
?J7s hM Try Sharpening It After, Not Before, irietion produces hat in tha'bUda
dr- . that , . ' This very materially affects the ex-
merit and lorg service count for but ' " " " -tzK. Zr' . Wdlngly thin edge, so that the crystal-
nfi .i...'f. vnritiim fh vun riT i rom ,ine new xora uun. usation Drpaxs aown wnon vou oeam
ii aiiuvr. yuur uibub cwi ore. oe-i
little against favoritism: that years of
effort to attain promotion through de-
A. man who was showing; his new set
vbtion'wsdUty and exemplary conduct v.-,.,. come set and cow, and you will Hnd
ma" t for niurh ff IV. pleasea ff ivoir-handled raxors o soma friends your morning shave a much easier and
thoaa to authority to Deatow the sied tha other da axplainsd to them th calmer perzormaoca. .
. ,rvy'i "-'v-es- i :y"!y;'?yysV;'yV;';t'';'. ''.viyyy yv? yc:i.-yy y y-'i-u--i-' y-'y
: y".-' -:; y ; :V ; - y ; ' " :V:' ; ; ; " ,1 a--v- y -y yi ;y.; - yr; ty . y;; --yyy V ; : !y y y . .y 'y H!- :S"y