THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAU PORTL'AND SUNDAY MORNING, FEBRUARY t. 1909.
1
1 im mmjmmm& f
How Classic
Draperies Are
Being Repro
duced in Mod
ern Dress
Tkese Ancient
Mod ern Cos
tumes Dispense
with Trimming,
Depending for
Effect on
Beauty of Color
and Line
THERE'S bo dsnrlntr that para
doxical aa It may sound, to bo
quit up to data tho woman of
today muit bay mora than a
hint of antiquity In tier draaa.
Not content with tha cllnaina-, abort
walated coatamoa of tha Empire period
he now aklpa eome centurlea and rea
urrecta the aohemea of dreaalnf of the
ladles of ancient Greece. Theae she
nonchalantly adapta to tha poaalbUlUeM
of today's modea.
If one haa any remembrance of one's
French history, one will perhaps recall
that at the beginning of the French
revolution the people of France for a
while went quite mad en the subject
of classic dress. The women did their
hair in Imitation of antique busta and
wore scanty and flowing drapery. The
' men, not to be outdone, sacrificed their
cherished curia and displayed close
cropped heada "of the Roman fashion."
It waa their way of showing admira
tion for the ancient republics and the
faahion lasted for several years.
So perhaps, after all, we are only
"logically retrograding." Though, good-
ness knows, where we shall land. I hope
'the movement will stop ahort of the
1 garden of Eden I
So in the rather "ultra" models one
flnda gowns but a series of draperies,
skirts and folded waists all flowing
into one: sleeves more often than not
dispensed with In favor of more folds
drawn around the top of the arm or
transparent stuffs, hanging low, scarf
like, toward the elbow.
Now will the dressmaker have to
burn the midnight oil or electric light.
If she be a dressmaker of fashion
studvin- the areat art of line. Now
will she have to learn to consult books it In the Oreek pattern which borders It
or ancient art to learn tnn secret or is It possible that the delicious rem-
draping. For the gowns of today are lnlne frivolity of the tea gown a frlvol-
llke a dry-point etching no line once Ity which takes the shape of frothy
traced or cut can be erased or hidden white lace ruffles and roses fashioned
with a frivolous frill, for frills are of ribbon and all kinds of delicate
things tabooed. - coquetry will be sacrificed to the
But now, also, comes the day of the severe simplicity of the classic modeT
amateur dressmaker with a sure eye for In thia one example, at least It un-
artlstlo effect For, after all, the artis- questionably Is.
' tie aye Is what Is needed to the success Again we have the long stole ends
: of these queer seml-classio gowns, reaching almost to the skirt hem, back
Without that a gown turned out by tha and front. But here they do not mean
smartest dressmaker will be a dismal an absence of sleeves, for much-draped
failure, while a gown made In the house sleeves appear below. These are at-
loy the so-muoh-a-day dressmaker, un- tached to the body of the robe, which
; der the direction of some discerning is long and flowing, of white crepe do
member of the family may make an chine of a very satlney finish,
affect most flattering to the weaver. The drapery -which Is folded across
One thing sure, there will be an lm- the bust Is edged with the Grecian
mense saving in the usual expense of border, which is done in fine dull gold
trimmings, for of trimmings there Is cord. The same border Is applied on the
little on these gown which depend stole and here It Is further outlined on
o much on the beauty of material, either side by a heavier cord of gold,
color and line. Tassels of gold weight the corners. This
Tou will see that In the figure marked tea gown is constructed all of one ma-
'A" the only trimming visible Is a bit terlal, but It would be quite possible to
St fringe on the long scarr wmcn is nave a note or contrast in the stole ends
raped around the shoulders. Nothing or some color Introduced In the border-
could be more simple than this dress, lng.
. Hade of panne satin, supple, yet having "Could you lmgalne more plaits and
some body, It Is cut on the familiar folds finding footing on one gown than
princess lines. The skirt la long and enter Into or, perhaps, I should say,
absolutely plain. From the waist up form the construction of the dress
the satin is laid In soft folds around shown In the sketch lettered "C7"
the waist, almost simulating a broad Plaits and folds on the oversklrt,
girdle. But lust across the Dust It Is plaits and folds on the waist again on
most unexpectedly plain. the sleeves. The underskirt alone es-
The gown has no sleeves, a scarf of capes, but It Is so full that quite of Its
the same material with very long ends own will It follows suit and hangs In
taxing tneir piace. -me neca is cut in xoias srouna me wearer s reel.
a very youthful face and perfect neck
could wear It successfully.
That there may be no mistake about
the Grecian Intent of the tea gown In
the sketch marked "B," the designer
has put a most distinctive badge upon
round, without a hint of any trim
mlng whatever. This untrimmed round
neck Is a feature of many of the new
deml-tollette models. But while It is
striking, It is also very trying, and I
Of course, only In the most siinnl
material could it be hoped this dress
would be a success. But as an Illus
tration of the much-drased and folded
costume, It Is useful. Made In this
fear the percentage of women to whom case of silky broadcloth of the lightest
11 would prove oeooming is amau. uniy cnuion texture, ana or the color known
& Draped Gown
of Raspberry
Red Panne
Satin, Show
ing the New
U n t r i mmed
Round Neck.
B A Tea Gown
of Simple
Lines and Dis
tinctly Grecian
Effect.
as "banana," It Is noticeable for the
striking arrangement of the lace on the
over skirt This lace, of almost the
same tone as the cloth, is heavily
darned In shaded silks, with a rich ef
fect. The same lace la used in the
V-shaped yoke, which Is outlined In a
heavy cord almost a rope of dull gold.
The sleeves are long, of that fashion
which is being so slowly accepted.
By the way. I hear from friends In
Paris that It is there a winter of lace
and fur. Both are used in quite un
paralleled extravagance and utterly un
practical ways, for many of the fur
coats are sleeveless and collarless and
open down the front to every breeze
that blows. And lace Is worn In a way
almost as absurd. Irish lace Is running
In fashion's race. Chemisettes, guimpes
and rolttaine cuff . are made of both
heavy and delicate crochet. The Par
isians are particularly taken with the
combination of this lace and fur. And
this you cannot wonder at when you see
the charming coatee of chinchilla Inset
C Cloth, Much
Folded and
Draped and
Trimmed With
Darned Lace.
D Antique Jew
els Are in De
mand for Fast
ening: Draperies.
E A Striking
Example of
Severely Clas
sic Lines.
with heavy Irish crochet that Mad
ame Gadskl Is wearing In New York
this Season. It Is a thing to dream of.
Women of the smart set and large
bank accounts In Paris are wearing
skating costumes made entirely of baby
Persian lamb, that deliclously supple
but also expensive fur. The skirts are,
of course, short and made on scanty
lines, for even this silky fur weighs
more than cloth or velvet.
That they may not be too narrow
around the foot a shaped flounce of
heavy black satin Is added. This is
again ornamented at the hem by several
little overlaying ruffles of finely
pleated black panne velvet Below this
appears a narrow strip of the fur, not
more than an Inch and a half in width.
The coats to wear with these skirts
are usually a combination of black
satin and fur. The popular Idea of a
skating jacket being something very
trim and close-fitting can be thrown to
the icy winds, for these little French
coats are loose-hanging and slashed and
very short Where the protection against
the attentions of Jack Frost comes in I
confess I can't quite see.
French women have taken up the
combination of fur and black satin with
great enthusiasm. Shawl collars of
lack satin are seen on many coats of
varioua kinds of furs. These collars
are very lance, turning down over th
shoulders almost to the sleeve tons.
They are not so becoming as collars of
fur, but what will you? They are "the
fashion!"
Quite the latest word in fur fashions
Is sounded in the collars of fur, which
are making their appearance with fash
ionable morning costumes. And they are
Just that collars.
Made of chinchilla, skunk (which is
enjoying a sudden revival in fashion's
favor) or sable, they take the form of a
single band of fur made exactly like our
dress collars. They are mounted on a
boned lining, rising behind the ears and
fastening in the back with hooks and
eyes, under a chic butterfly bow of
black satin ribbon. Could you imagine
anything more original or becoming?
Very often no other fur Is seen on the
costume, although a huge muff made of
the same fur as the collar la some
times carried.
Sleeves, I hear, are growing longer
each day In Paris. Lace ruffling com
ing down to .'he knuckles ts a becoming
fashion and one being rapidly revived.
Torefcdor ties of green satin or silk
Tke Last "Word
m rrench rur
Fashions witk
Details of Sev
eral New. Fads
Observed Late-
k ' r. ,
ly m Jraris
Collars of y Fur
Fastened m the
Back Under
Butterfly Bows
of Satin Axe
Most Striking
are fashionable. They are very ample,
quite filling up the front of the Jacket,
and it is a fad to have a bit of exaotly
the same shade of kid to match.
One of the roost extreme example '
of clssslo lines In these new gowns Is)
shown In the sketch "B." -
In the original model this was a
golden gown which waa quits as true
as to Its cost as to Its color, I hays no .
doubt The close fitting, clinging gown ,
which has served aa a foundation for
the draperr was of golden, net heavily,
embroidered In pearls and gold thread.
Two narrow straps formed an apology
for sleeves. The drapery was of gold- '
colored crepe de chine, which Is. a fabrla
always in aemana. Dut on wnicn win
probably gain a renewed popularity, for
it la an ideal material for draping.
A large gold rose, set with pearls,
was used to fasten the drapery at the ,
left side. From there it hung In sev- t
era folds, which would prove trying; to
any but the most slender figure.. In
fact these classic gowns demand almost ,
classically perfect forms.
As these ornaments with which t -
fasten the draperies are such Import
ant details of the classic gowns we can
imagine the mad search for odd and ef
fective Jewels which will be Instituted.
Old curiosity shops will be ransacked In
the hope of finding "a treasure"- of
course the more antique and odd the
better. Next Christmas we may expect
the modern girl to search eagerly
toward the toe of her stocking for the
ancient cl .sp she hopes to find there. "
Art can do little to aid nature when
all the lines of the "human form divine''
are so frankly silhouetted.
Ifs rather painful to Imagine a wo
man of well. I will be kind and call It
rounded proportions attired In clinging .
under-dress and scanty drapery. And
yet there Is no doubt that If this ancient-modern
style of dress really oh- t
tains, we cannot hope that our sisters
of unslender line will forswear ft "Out
of the world, out of the fashion," you
know!
I advise you to take time by the fore
lock and to In for a vigorous course of
physical training In anticipation of, the
time when our dressmakers will have to '
discard pads and fill up the chinks, and
tight lacing to depress th humps of
our faulty anatomy. i -
But If the changing of our outlines is
a thing beyond help, It Is comforting
to remember that ''carriage" Is really
almost as Important. A head well held,
an erect figure, graceful arms and hands
which are trained in grace of movement,
go far toward creating an impression' of
dignity and charm which are, after alL
the chief requisites to the successful t
wearing of these gowns.
It's rather a far cry from classio
draperies to French hats. But did you
ever see anything mors gratifying to .
the eye of good taste than the hats ,
which the mid-winter season -has
brought out. .
The hats entirely of tulle usually v.
black tulle, without extra trimming,
only a mass of folds of this airy fabric
are assuredly the work of a real artist
hand. For only an eye with an Inborn
genius for line, and a hand skilful
enough to do the eye's bidding could '
evolve these things of Such deceptive
looking simplicity. . - i,
The hat Itself la broad and flat, mads
of tulle or of oatln black, of course,
And on It, quits concealing the crown,
Is massed folds and folds of tulle Not
the stiff wired bows of the early season,
but tulle turned softly back and forth
and caught here and there invisibly.,'
But while an unskilful hand might mska
a mass of this without form or chic. '
the clever milliner evolves a thing; of ' '
perfect lines and becomlngness. ,
The snowy little toques of soft, white . ,
fox fur seem the personification of
winter, and are most kind to youthful ;
faces. For trimming they have a gayly
nodding plume or some crushed pink "
roses and a dull pink ribbon apparently
pulled through the hat and ending In a
smart little bow at the opposits kids ,
from the rose. One fox hat I saw worn
by a sparkllnsr brunette had a scarlet
poinsettla with two glossy leaves
tucked Into the fur at the side. It mads
a striking trimming on the whits fur.
NEW PROFESSION OF CITY PLANNING Only Seven Years Old,
But Already It Has Spread From New York Across Country to tne Philippines
By Charles Mulford Robinson.
Copyright 1908,-by "Charities and The
Commons' New York.
Charles Mulford Robinson of Roches
ter, New York, the author of this arti
cle, may be said to havs created the
firofession of city planning, for while
here are many who practice It In con
nection with some other profession, as
architecture or landscape design, he
stands alone to make ft a profession
by Itself. He is the author of "The
Improvement of Towns and Cities,"
which has been called "the Bible of the
improvement effort In the United
States," and of "modern civic art"
which 1s devoted to a discussion of the
more strictly artistic problems of city
building, and he is a frequent con
tributor to magazines. Many cities
have -engaged Mr. Robinson either
throus-h chambers of commerce, lm-
rovement ciuos or municipal ppropn
ions, to make reports on their possion-
- . i
jue. Among mom mo uivnuu
Springs, Detroit, Buffalo, Syracuse,
Denver, Columbus, Ohio, Oakland, Cali
fornia, Honolulu, watertown and
Jamestown, New York, Long Beach,
California, Los Angeles, Ogdensburg,
San Jose and Dubuque.
v '.
X'E of the older poets had It that
f ,1 "God made the country but -man
I ' I mads ths town." There are lots
V : of people who sre getting hot on
, ' the trail of that man. If they
goOiold of him onco they would trounce
hi as a Jerry builder and a dub. ' But
aa that Is out of ths ouestlon and of
Js asofltao4 aa jra ara aU prsttif
much responsible they have set to with,
a will at the recasting of cities. The
movement has gone on merrily In Eng
land and continental Europe for some
time past and now has invaded Ameri
can cities In a serious, a thorough go
ing, and Infectious way.
It Is really wonderful how the move
ment has spread. It embraces cities
and towns of all slses and geographical
location, from New York to Bagulo, in
the Philippine Islands. The story of
the developments of the last 12 months
alone Is sufficiently stirring, for In
that time the report for New York (by
the city Improvement commission), for
Bt Louis, for St Paul, for Du
buque, for Cancinnatl, for Montre
al, for Los Angeles; ths informal
reports for Boston, and minor re-
Sorts for Jamestown. New York, and
igdensburg. have come out, while Bos
ton, New Haven, Grand Rapids, Balti
more, Hartford, Columbus, and no doubt
other cities have set commissioners to
work: San Diego, Watertown, and Du
luth have engaged individuals to mate
general city Improvement plans; and
Honolulu, reasserting Itself, has brought
out a seoond edition of a report which
was made for its beautiflcation a couple
of years ago.
Only Seven Years Old.
Ths movement Is only seven years
old In America, for it may be said to
have commenced with' the appointment
of the Washington expert commission
In 1901. But when one year creates
so considerable aa amount of clty-plan-Hia
Jtlatoi7 aa havs tht Jaat 11 moot
It will be understood that the history
of seven years all of them active
la too long to do Justice to in a news
paper article. As was said at a recent
city-plan dinner In Toronto, "the re
casting of cities, that they may be more
convenient and beautiful, Is In the air.
The whole continent is affected...' It
Is a sort of municipal "grip," but vary
beneficent In Its effect.
However, the essential thing. If not
the most dramatic, la why cities go info
this work. It is a long story but
briefly, It may be said that the bene
fits to be derived are three-fold. They
He In a bettering of those circulatory
problems that have been created by
congested traffic; in the Improvement
of social conditions In many directions:
and in Increasing the visible beauty or
splendor of cities. The demand has
rown out' of the ' necessities created
y an unexpectedly large and rapid
growth. Urban conditions have no
changed that recasting is required;
streets that were sufficient for the town
cannot carry the traffic which a me
tropolis pours upon them, the children
of the poor who formally had access
to the country in a few moments' walk
afe now fenced in by miles of closely
built up streets; public building is hid
den by crowding sky-scrapers, and
gardens have given place to the closed
ranks of mafeonry.
Ths replannlng of cities is concerned
with all of these matters, because- It
has to do with the urban framework,
as this is made. up of atreets and ave
nues and open spaces of one sort and
another. " It treats Of the skeleton of
ths city, of that which gives to ths
Uy 1U avastnettOBai twam aa4 U
must take the broad and comprehensive
view, considering the needs not of dis
tricts only but of the community os
a whole. It has little to do with de
tails, such as billboards, pavements,
etc.; but It is intimately concerned with
the large problems or transportation;
with the convenience of the streets for
trafflo purposes;, with the proper lo
cation, and if possible the grouping,
of public buildings; with the develop
ment of neighborhood centers which
shall become a moral and social force;
withr the location of parks and their
accessibility to those who most need
them; and with the attractive develop
ment of residential and suburban tracts.
The good city-plan report considers
not one and another of these matters:
but all of them together. They are all
parts of one great remoulding of cities,
modernising them by recasting them as
far as may be on scientific lines which
is to say, on lines of business con
venience, of good sense, of social serv
ice, and of good looks. It cannot even
be said that generally speaking one
fhase Is more Important than another;
he marvelous spread of the movement
Is due to recognition of the fact that
no city which is progressive, or which
wishes even to seem so, can do without
such a report
No Lost of Individuality.
characteristic. The first thing which
is looked for by him who adequately
approaches the prpblorn of city-planning
Is that intangible something which the
city says, which Is the secret of its
own peculiar charrh among cties. And
when he has found this, It tempers
his whole recasting of the city; subtly,
unconsciously, it affects his every
scheme. A man might be wondrously
learned In engineering, in landscape
designing, and In architecture; but un
less ne was so sympathetic to the spirit
of cities that he could catch the Individ
ual expression of each, he must fail
In the making of city plans.
There should be something said of
the spirit in which this remaking of
cities is undertaken and authorized. You
will hear half a dozen motives an
nounced for the ordering of the work.
The city is to be improved to keep paco
with other cities to draw tourists, to
correct evils; but it all simmers down
into one thing public spirit. And
those to whom the commission Is giv
en undertake It reverently, In appre
ciation of great trust which thousands
of persons are reposing upon them, and
of the opportunity, for never before
has artist had so wonderful and com
plex a material with which to work. A
man's every higher Instinct must re
spond to the appeal, when called to re
plan a city.
FUEL MISHAPS
Yet, this recasting, It is important
to observe, does not mean loss of in
dividuality. That Is the most precious From London Answers,
thing a city has. Rather, Insofar as cisy mixed with coal-dust and shaped
tha expression of the city is worthy, into small bricks or halls makes a cap-
lb awe filawi ampbaaixs It gpsqiaj ltaJ Xual Car aoj crau wiU good
draught, and one that is, of course, far kind is chemically treated and burnt to
cheaper than the cheapest coal. The operate ths pumping works or electric
worst of It Is that thess briquettes plant : 'x :v
carry so badly. You can't load them in Sawdust in itself Is too fins and
a truck or wagon as you would coal, heavy to burn well and smothers a
for If you try to do so they crumble, fire when thrown upon It But if mixed
and after a short Journey are nothing wl,th 20 per cent of coarse waste and
but dust. prlquetted with a binder of soft pitch.
Some years ago an inventor discovered ' makes first-class fusl. The writer :
a method of briquetting cool-duct and na seen outside American sawmills
clay so that It would not orumblo. Jt Piles of sawdust resembling small
was said that he put a small proportion mountains. All this waste will event- -of
rice flour in the mixture. As there ually be used for burning in household '
were millions of tons of slacit lying grates and ranges. - .?
waste he fancied that he was on ths There are millions of acres of peat
high roud to fortune. Works were in these islands. Ireland aloue hs
erected on the Thames, and for awhils quite 3,000,000 acres of p'at-bog. Peat
all went well. Then suddenly it was is a far finer fuel than those who hnvs
discovered that all the blocks in stors never used it imagine. There are large. '
were covered with a sort of fungus farmhouses on the skirts of D.ortmor
growth which rapidly broke Them to where coal ts never bougnt, and all ths
pieces. Do what they would, they could cooking and heating is done with peat
not stop this fungus growth, and soon Much of this peat Is, waen iioprtly
the works had to be shut down. What dried, almost as black and hard is orrtl
is wanted above all things Is a Cheap nary soft coal, and it gives a fins heat
and efficient binding material. At pres- If only peat did not crumble so ba lly
ent experiments are beinz made with when dry. a peat-bog would be profit
pitch, cement, and other materials, but able as a coal mine. . And another ob
we believe that so far no coal briquette Jectlon is the trouble of dry'.u,? it Pur
has been produced which will stand lng the past wet summer not a quarter
rough handling. ,; of ths usual supply of peat was go
Other materials besides ooai have been In Devonshire. Anyone who discovers
used for making briquoC.es. "Among a good and economical method of turn
these are sawdust, peat, . Thames njud, lng peat into ah available form of p rt.
and even ordinary street r sweepings able fuel should maks a fortune Thre
and the residuum of sewage. The re is at present a' factory near the famous
fuse of greet London has noured ?own Bog of Allen where peat Is eleetrji-aur
its waterway for so many year that treated and made Into brlqun: Ttife
Thames mud has actually fonaiderabls give-out no smoke in ournln. irid sre
value as fuel.- It Is made lnta jriJui ttes almost as hard ss .the b-t .Welsh o
which look like dull ebony, and which. Another coal substitute is "maut,
burn steadily, leaving but -very little a substance once consid-red as - e
ash. This fuel is said to give quite pure and simple. Masut Is a by-pro.iv t
as much heat as cheao coaL and it from the distillation .of. petroleum, a
can be produced jfor about seven-and- dark brown, oiiyriuia. it ourr wr
sixpence a ton.
Tti
in
There
coal-dust.
USA
brisk Tame, and ve r.
le amoant of combustible material" man o
street sweeninss is ouite fororisinic for weight, as owe , h
Is vegetable and woody fibre, hair, la. chiefly used tor '".!. '
snd oily matter, and la more stoves "fL", J""" '" -
sse mif uaa town waste w wua uu -
1