: THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY ! MORNING. JANUARY 23, 1003. .".V " Late Mo Jels of Lingerie :;Gkalmn,dXkili:, Lace v - - ; s ;and Embroidery A mmif 4 wm rim Ml - Alrla Wear Pa. Jamaa Just Like ; Brother. These Are of Fine Rajah Silk' Ornamented With ' Chinese Embrold- ' , err. With Mule to Match. . .,, . - . B Dainty Chemise With , Yoke of French Embroidery, Lac Insertion and - Fine Tucks. O -"Petticoat With Satin Ribbon Threaded Through SHU in the Lower . Edge , of the ' Flounce. Corset Cover Has Embrold . ery Put On in Sua , pender Effect. DXigbtgown With .. Ribbon Ran, French ' . Embroidery :. Yoke . and Loose Sleeves. SK e7 dfe?' t-.itv:?. i I MF .' pip 1 R UFFLE3 and t rilla. laces and bows ars supposed to hold a particular fascination M ths feminine fancy. Yet Just now they are , ' sternly foreKoins; all these frivolities to array themselves for the noura of sleep In severely cut pajamas. ; Pajamas so like their brothers that only the slat marks the difference between tbem. - . ': , The sams materials that men's lpp- ing garments are made of are employed G E xquislte Little In their construction soft Aannela and V-,K, , th (InMt nt nnnrM anil Ml,h allka Algnt UaPS Are Ml The Jackets are military in cut with straight band or rather narrow turn down collars. Sometimes they are minus . collars at all, in which case the neck is Always cut out slightly V-shaped and . piped with a narrow cord of color. The fastening is made with frogs of braid ' put on slantways down the front and there is a reallytruly breast pocket in which to tuck a handkerchief. The sleeves, to be entirely correct, , are. cut like a man's coat sleeve, with . sometimes a turn-back cuff. The trous ers are long and roomy. Chinese embroidery is used very ef fectively In the pajamas shown in the sketch. Occasionally a little braiding ' is -applied down the front and on ihe collar and cuffs. But any great con trast In coloring is .not good form." Thus pajama jackets of pongee are braided in coffee color end rajah silk embroidered in shades of cream and pal- ' est yellow. Charming little half Slippers Chinese mules, if I may use such an anomalous : term often accompany pajamas. If you are very luxurious you have them made to order, of the same material as your pajamas and decorated with the same embroidery that adorns your-pajama E Lace-Edged Ruffles Finish the Lower Edge of Chemises and Rib bon Bows Adorn the Shoulder Straps. F Undergarments Have rery Wide, Much Trimmed Ruffles. Present a Fad Among Smart Women. Many of Them Are Delicate ly Scented. H Sachet Ribbons With Which to Tie Up Bun- dies of Lingerie and Jeweled Corset Hooks Are Two Novelties. ; x St flUe Pajama Girl is and Satin Bloomers Are vVorn Undeg : Evening Gowhs Ritton Run TK roui ,v m ma i tmm mmm I NUhtgown With Shallow Yoke c and ont Panel of Etrtbi-oldery. J Combination Garments Are Popu- Orlginal Sleeves Composed of Iace Insertion and Ribbon Bows. jacket. Your friends will be sure to dub them "cute." Hut while to Imitate your brother In the matter of his night lrag may be up to date and smart, it doesn't appeal to every one. Many women still re main laithful to the more feminine al lurements of fine linen, with trimming of delicate French embroidery, minute lar. This Shows Corset Covers and Short Skiri in One. beading and frothy ruffles of lace. While there doesn't seem to 6a any thing sensationally new In lingerie, each Season brings fresh fruit of the clever designer's hanfj, more charming models, for women to rave over. This year is no exception. We find the same materials In under .garments fine nainsook, batistes and I WOMEN DRINKERS MAKE MISERY-Han.ili.t- . ing to Tkink Intemperance is on tke Increase By Mrs. John A. Logan. T IS with deep humiliation that one Is obliged to admit that Intemper ance emong women 1s, seemingly ' on the increase. " ! Certain it is that no self-respecting woman of the olden time would have publicly indulged in any form of dissipation. Cocktails and the various enticing drinks were probably not in vogue, but the.timehonored mint Jullps have always been in fashion for men. , It ts now no uncommon tl lng to see women go Into a restaurant, hotel or club . dining-room, , unaccompanied by gentlemen, and order brandy and sodas, Manhattan cocktails, or any other al coholic concoettoh which . happens to strike their fancy, and drink them with all the nonchalenee of. a connoisseur. . Many ; consider a luncheon or - after Mi Button-Holed Slits is a New Feature of Many ,C UnderH Garment all ths French linen weaves, Night- fown sleeves seem more abbreviated han ever in fact, on some a mere frill of lace does duty for the more substan tial sleeve. Sleeves, when they are of which might be caught were this petti coat worn beneath a muslin gown. Ribbon hows seem to be tacked on to llna-erle Without much rhvme or reason. But such delightful bows they are that ample slsc, are loose and hanging, much no explanation is 'demanded for their monograms, are also popular as gifts, which are frequently exchanged. It comes, mayhap, from very old-fashioned notions, but nevertheless there is something revolting in seeing women drinking and smoking. It is for women to maintain the high est standard of morality in society and If they fall to appreciate their respon sibility, they fall short of their mission and can lay no claim to being the better part of creation. . : . Almost all the Ills In the catalogue can be traced to Intemperance; hence, If women countenance Indulgence in spirituous liquors they, are tampering with the most dangerous enemy of viriue. Frequently, before their majority, they sre hopelessly under the thraldom of the vicious inheritance. Until women become teetotalers, ths race is In jeopardy throueh the baneful innuence intemperate mothers may in- convlnce any fair-minded person that me nation is m pern rrora the intern perance of men and women, a majority of whom represent the highest society of the country. up and lace Inserted and slashed trimmed An original sleeve is shown on the nightgown in the sketch lettered "I." It Is made of bands of insertion, edged with lace, running around the arm. flict upon the children Of each nnarn. nt artin rih . ,mu.a a . ribbon runs from the shoulder endinr and occaeionally a very fine aoft corded u tuv vii7wo n uuilb vviii in irr ins inwnsir rnxar 'i nia a laniis minht ri r nnn be suceessfiiily adapted to a summer While colored ribbons are used on muslin dancing frock. nightgowns, negligees and garments not The panel ot.embroidery, beginning in Intended for the public eye, the fastld the shallow yoke and running to the ious woman threads her underwatets nem, is another original point about this with white ribbon. Colored ribbons being. Big, smashing bows of lustrous satin riooon, Duncnes or mue dows, an crushed together, rosette-like bows with long ends of narrow ribbons, each one having a "dangler" of ribbon emitting a faint fragrance. Wash ribbon In all widths Is seen' on Imported models of lingerie, but satin ribbon is also used, The combination corset cover and drawers is particularly popular and very good patterns of this garment may be obtained, So that the woman who likes to make her own underclothes can turn this out with as much or as little elsb oratlon as she desires and with great satisfaction. - t In Paris women are discarding petti coats with their evening gowns of close falling and scanty lines. This Is from necessity rather than choice There really Isn't room for underskirts; a slip of chiffon Is the only thing possible. That story of Du Maurler of the lady ; at the party who. when asked to sit down, said: "Oh. how I should like to! But my dressmaker says I mustn't!" gains fresh point . no petticoats oeing ppsBioia women KIPLING'S NEW POEM. nm, is anomer original point about this with white ribbon, uoiorea rmoons - vrZ.y,nZ bloomers T T'erhaDS kniok- gown. The panel Is made separately seen through sheer white waists became . erbocera would be Ta better term for, t22&JaBtrt lnt0 the front wltb fln "uch uciSbJl.'5,hion.!LV wu.imu whu uiu ui L-Wi garments ,to auaaest the voiumiaoui w Drawers are ( made with enormously, for wa?mth with "pale' blue "ol- pink Theln little caps are usually line Ida ruffle "umbrella" is no mis-- try.,. .a narf,.n t T.i"t,'t7..V'" "U"J i'e beading. in the sketch marked "D" much of a fad among smart Engl is women to whom they were introduce liquors on the sideboard does not tempt given at London recently, a poem by The verse in.aii t0 tlr,nk; that yn5 People, Rudyard Kipling was read. theatre supper incoroniete withnut; in un., .k..,. ' . i. was written by the great English au- TIJf'Jrln.1 tna lf drink is banished thor "especially for the occasion, and Is Z'VSr&Sb the more entlt,ed "1867.07 The.poem foHows; KnSi2Lm "-tethinsf tht ifi!?! mT'J1, lh,en temptations are the The remnant of that desperate host ?jSetS!S h7"eaet?ribU th- wLh cleansed our east vrlth steel. iineonscious o ine wniriuiw in- oi lniemperance In the nri.-, m.ii ffw.ll( enmg a too-short - ribbon bow. " A we may exnect to see the .buckles of , lonclncs la 'ih,. nit, - ni,h. r.i ki.L Combination garments are. now being pssts or precious stones worn In great- which to bind together bundles of lin rineiiira - Tnev . an sax iiax . nwr rnair Linn n iMhM t.t... . - . '"T"rr. t . ; .' " , s an a ma , .r1.01"?'' snoui companions. srette eases, whicfc both are wont to m. ' tilffht. In many Instances, the social Elaas Famous Author and Poet Pa va TrIH. of charming but much less elab- with lady friends is the beginning of 1,(,i1iMliMnHii V.(.M. orate design is shown. Ribbon thread a regular debauch on the part of men e to Indian Mutiny Veterans. ed through eyelet holes worked In the who are otherwiaa not riven to dll- t, ... yoke and tied at the side, with Ioodb pation. ,', " : . -' .h-nd-. Is , lda quit. nomerrAnd the frill, are quit, thing rn-d- that thereis not a fold I itetfc Z&"?tfi"mZZi. it is sometimes argued that having j " -" T . " 1" "3 . , . " vt Z??" ,5,uo5;,u "WW" $ "eauty, 1wuniace mserungs ana the hlpe and they descend straight and chosen perfume are : concealed under th -y ' "'""O TOfii, rrencn emoroiaery nu inuuu nua m- gum - to the kneer where tney zasten lining. . It is a favorite method of in. :Many "JffJown8'-.r.renc models, we fling. Most of the ruffles on drawers With'strap and gold buckle. parting f raihee to the hr , - m "uv'iiS" t?"M,?2l "2 lytWUXS VL " 5 ?Amen,EL SSC .i.A'lftti. novelty, -which aiso. alds'l an iaea ror lengtn "nigntie," aoesn . v vmi, Vv - en wnin mamtf aotured in comnarativciv : men- crrandTatnera davs worn arain wun rerie. A rihhnn ,hnit.n..iuh...j tt tt!L J MnJ T Vft fr.81 pensive styles, and so the woman who satisfaction, ; They make such charm- half wide and a yard long Is double fo at ?. 01 !he.fl"UI,P4.DU ; h a petti- soum 0t afford the expensive models lng. adornments for the', knee, ' -Black about seven Inches In the center. ThY cosi wmcn won my aamirauon the rib- 0f other years can new know the joy, of : satin knickers, with old brilliant buck-' ls filled wit sachet powder and dec n ... . .tanu virf i.k 1. . two ana wiree unaergarmenis maae in . les. - nas a ueiigaiiuiij' jjioiurwoiu uriea wiw nine xiower garianas dom v . 7"T,r t"Jv .. ' ' UIUil" one piece, -wun us ngnmess ana is, aouna, min i iit . . u wner coiora or exquisite ribboi We greet you here Insertion heading the deep flounce, and aence of bulk. . v a- A Then nightcaps! Have yotlv-een the .work, which Is just now a thing o Ae riooon. was underwaists ana snort skirts and un aear jitue nigntcapa wnicn mnaay lies reaiiy artistic perfection. - ...... - run through wide slits, out and button- derwalsts and drawers, with sometimes : down over her shining looks when she For the women of luxurious taste holed , lust above the ruffle. the addition of a short skirt, ere Joined : seeks repose? 1 :, . , i. ' and the wherewithal to gratify thorn. 1 No bow finished the ihsertipn, but a together at the waist with a ribbon run They are little things of lace- an.t , a corset hook, of gold-studded with dla generous bow of the ribbon, with long beading. They fasten up the front, nn:l I muslin and - coquettish ribbon -bows, monds and Other precious etones. Thet" ends, was fastened on to thelace Inser- fit absolutely smoothly around the hipe made, some i of them,, very . like -baoy little trif lee, cost from fit vp, and ar. tlon above, Tou caa Imagine the fas- and waist a ao necessary thing under caps. 'They.aU pulldown over the ear hardly to be commended. t taek sock ClBafoc fUmpai C Walot rlbhon, tlvt BeiUau t9wn now mcb worn, tud tU mitt tb chia. They we Tery taata, . ..... . :. , It ! quitt the thing of ladles to . mit to her child this fiendish 7?JSf present gentlemen, and gentlemen to and et ther are lnnum?abi.Sf?- ippalUng With tears that hone Will scorn. d trans- D. keepers of the house .of old. Or ever we were born, , to dru .(id A-iWvT . , aa.a,cl . v" serYlc? more we aare w wk. are., born with ihi w,el' oaoies .fray xor u, neroes, pray, 1