TUB " OREGON SUNDAY"' JOURNALS-PORTLAND, SUNDAY-MORNING,. JANUARY 0, 1003.
i .
.11 Mm II . ' II
Tunics and Over-Skirts
Are Seen m Various
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t ' '. ( . " .1.,- i -
; Forms on Many
Lately Imported Costumes
Tins Is tke Day
Successfully
Made Over
Gowns
(j nitron V bile s and I A
Weidht iBroadclbtli
AeFayoriteMateriaL
xor xxrrernoon iressee
; .
SUCH bluo aeaton at this la!
' ' Looking about New York at
places wher faahlonable womtt
foregather, at teaa and dinnera
at tho morning mualcalaa at tha
Waldorf and at tha Metropolitan Opera
' hou I'va been impreaaed by all tha
blua aulta, blue gowna, blua kata I'va
.' ever seen worn. ? "."'. -
The Ducheaa of Marlborouth looked
really very weU on flight in tha palest
blua gown rown ao moonlight pala
5 that It aeemed ielmoat white, and beaida
her waa m well-known wornn alj In pea- -.
cock huea from allpper neel to aigrette.
And ao It runa the framut of thia color
, -all tonea. all ahades, but with nearly
alwaya Juat a anode of green In It
In tha morning blue is very muc to
- , tht'fore. If you don't aee whole coa-
tumea Of It, a not of it will often ap
pear In little walatcoat or collar and
cuffa. Frequently hat laden with
plumes of a dull green-olue are worn
- with dark-colored rlothea. Truly hap.
py la the woman with '"eyea of Hearenva
own blue. for ahe can aueoeaafully
. wear a color faahlonable and at the
same tlma becoming,
Tha poaaibllltlea of charming after
noon i gownn are very great this year.
All the aoftly-f ailing llnea and trailing
sktrta make for plctureaqueneaa of ef
fect with- but little ffort on your part.
i, U you are blesaed with a dressmaker
with an eya for line and a discreet
hand In tha use of trimming. Materials
are Just now so lovely tn themselves, so
supple and falling easily into delecUblo
, fold, that much trimming aeems some
; tints quits superfluous. ' t : '
And yet you often see all kinds of ma
y terlala lace and chiffon, silk, velvet,
cloth and even fur ail combined In ons
gown with what seems a reckless ditre
gRrd for cAngruity, but ofan with sur
prisingly good results. ,
That's what makes It this year such
an easy task to bring last year s dress
up-to-date. , Never hss there' been n
time when there were such possibilities
of modernizing a gown.
Sleeves, which so often prove a "give
way" of the age of a dress, are Juht
now things of caprico and almost any
eccentricity "goes," You can easily
hsve over sleeves of nei or lace, dis
guising the original sleeves, or you can
discard them altogether, having aleevos
of the same material as the yoke, which
, probably contrast with- the material of
the gown. .,-,
Kven skirts too short for the present
mode of dragging draperies need not
prove a stumbling block to the success
f your made-over gown. There are va- .
Costumes Intended for
Afternoon Vear
An Up-to-Date Toucn
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ver or
A Gracefully Draped
down of Almond Green
Satin Faced Broadcloth,
Combined With Fillet
'Lace and Elaborate Silk
Applique.
B -Successfully 3 lade
Orer Chiffon Cloth. The
Jmco Is Used to Lengthen
the Skirt. .
C Rose-Colored Silk,
With ! an Original Over
skiit ' and Charmingly
Designed Sleeves.
D Blue Chiffon Voile
With - Deep Tucks on
Skirt And Lace Yoke and
Sleeves.
E Black and White
Fancy Silk Is Used for
This Simple Dress. A
Touch of Green Is Intro
duced In the Cording.
t r
rlous ways of lengthening them. Broad
bands of satin and velvet and even fur
frfn-i f,tin Bkirts- wide insert
!iSf f .lace are extensively used on
lightweight materials. , "
If you were having a new skirt made
you would probably "have It cut on on I
ktrVcirci,.,.'?r models. "ut plaits on
skirts are still seen. So you may wear
mind afresh " 8k,rt
While most of the French models
f fw wsr. hln collarsi curving up be
come ,n e-can women havfl
charms of eollarless gowns, and are
?eILmln,r ' thel,'; dMe intended
i-inefk: With wide-brimmed, pictur
esque hats they look very well."
?h. til8-' htjiu passementeries or
.!Jat" riin f1,11? metal threads, do
much toward giving;; to your.gowti an
U,PrwhJ .nilnV" 't- But thele glim"
roering trimmings shotud ibe used "with
the greatest tact They speak In such
sharn aivatit that t,- r i Bulv
attention to any weak points in your
costume, while on the other hand they
emphasise and adorn a well-draped fold
or cleverly cut piece.
t.e..y!!l0w ",'ron dancing frock
quite past its usefulness by reason of
lt0t!.iBnVr,,ftl nSm an danced"
upon train, 'was made over Into
1lm.ln ,ftf te",00n dress by combining
with it a lace dress, past its first fresh
ness, and some new velvet The under
slip of silk was In good condition, ex
cent that tha lift). . .Mi."'"
needed renewing. The waist was well
cut, ' - ',,. , , j
-fcAwl?Svftl?erUon cut from tha
plcU-t JTth lsa gown, jru get In at th
waists, .ve i n the too of the ahorf ' "vm, jneenos nansing down,
chiffon .aleevef These were invariably used with dresses
That most difficult feat of success iJ?S 5 shades IsUhis a hint of the
fully filling in the neck f an evening wJSlI' Ch0,d-tinl polonaise?
gown wa acCompl"hed With ?uckel of too" tfbld,LTi,,ero,lsht e women
Chiffon and lace. Velio .velvet HhhnS o .'JS solid flesh lament,
laid over the shoulders nd extenfc shfn rf?! 1,1n,R Itam S,1"1081 w
to the waist concealed the edae of thf SiJfrV- 4 :walkin " flutter of over
yke. Below the belt the ends of ?lbbon ?kintS,.Lpse".t thy are long, in
hung nearly to the floor, being knotted m? and bf ck fknd cut up nlffh th
carelessly once or tw ee A Bow knot Of, they come only, to tha
of gold ribbon, ith enda f Wished wUh SSni0?l ,dvMy Jiit,vine to the
gold tassels, was placed-on th ww end,of the taln In ths back. A variety
of the corsage. You may see the rlmXt "'t0" W J xpeoted later. y
in figure "j .T,' resu,t rtJ" th5 fketoh marked "A". thd usual
While this gown was msfli of fder of things Is reversed, lacs being
rials not chea ths "m effect -Coufd odL e underskirt, ths broadcloth
be gained by the uecoStta v -ivf?,.llfi,n,t, to show this
inexpensive stuffs. If the usaiof .frte fia,birat?,I-nder8kl,'t. ot ,a?- The drap
lace for lengthening the skirt wer lJtJ thls ,?ownLla ?u" a study In
possible, nafrow insertions wiS ho nrtl harmonious 1 nes. but let no one be do
of material between telM bimnw- udoi ,nt0 "ellevlng it possible of copy
The same Idea could be carri2??..??ei llg byanordinary dressmaker. It Is
the waint. 4ei.iSKK4.2e-Sar,2??. out in the sort of thlna that should he.. .! '
on waist and I skirt mg used tempted by a master hand only" The
Thers Is , no doubt that tt.. . . careless adjustment of one fold and the
the draped skiViS nea Tt hind TuniL' ot the whol own would' be
and bverskirta re nnn I , n1?8 spoiled. , ,
imported models- P" mMy lately 1 niade' of almond-green broa.1-
The skirt of long and traiiin.- n. Sllll 0,rjrJ.,l8;ht,.weignt noi 8at'n
which followed th-Jin" finish. Tho edgs of tha overskirt is
Vlated and plaited kirtV "7; WV"'?
be elaborated in Dlctursn iVn. -S 5B"-yc"a wun auii
ft the sides Although this dress ha
nm micui.ui ueiug em an in one,, in
C.i-i.Ta .-.""."" Jtt Douna to in shsdes i
tUh"i.he oveUrsk?rf&e !fflM.ft.'myOT
hv uiiTO.unMtrauu nu .noraerm ior' tne low.
of
, . y. "i- .-j""' . ""iruciea unaersmrt ana .borderinr
ZrVr l?ir a " ar-yoko.-ot. tucked tulle-a JaW,
.S-Ir snrnVt"h.thn-grurf.0Semtere
: In- Parlaf 'hr t,ai - J. " ' ' . mads n a circular sklrf model, hahg
w rr" a. been foe So low. la front and being cut p Wan
rate. Only at the waist line there is
no belt, the skirt being without boning
and wrinkling softly .where it curves
up onto the waist, thereby losing the
effect of the Joining.
There Is a suggestion of the Jumper
dress of last summer in the waist, with
its large armhole. Tha flat yoko,
broken by the laca emplecement and tt
line of satin nearer the-collar, la one of
the important features of this winter's
smart gowns.- . . 'v
The sleeves are made oh a charmintf ,
design, ths upper part of tucked chiffon,
the lower part of lace, dyed to matcn
ih rose 'color of the silk. Silver rib
bon; caught with little silver balls.
ml arm Th& nm sn .l.v. .u . .
, fjiub vj Oliver m me ittce usea on
the yoke and on the band around the
overskirt.
, Vollea have reached julte a perfection
in ntness and, sheerness of quality,
and ars not by any means high In prtceJ
Some of them are so airily woven thit
they might easily be mistaken for ehif
! frfn cloth, and chiffon voile is not a
misnomer. ,
xnese voiles make very attratotlv
gowns for occasions when more elab
orate materials would be out of place,
and hold their own, summer and winter
A smart little gown of voilt Is pictured '
in ths figure marked "D." Ths skirt
Is simply, made with four desp tucks..
The waist , has a yoke - and .hanging
sleeves, of lace,- buttons,' covered with
lace." ornament the front and center a ?
bow of silk. - A little , plaited - frill of
yoke, under , a shaped piece of ailk tha
sartft color as the voile, a' There I ft high I
Rhftna on! let A 1mm ... I
Fancy black nnd white Bilk la nsed'l
v M uivoio inai-ff.i9U' jut a yimizi ciri
cular skirt of the silk ha for its only5
y miming h. unirrcd Ditnu i HUK, oor-!
usicu uu eiuier sioo wim a narrow cora-'
sivffx iifv, nxjtt wii nwvva. ma jiGjn, :
On the waist the same trimming Is I
uacu, u apinmi i hi uie i ran i, coming i
unuur mo arms ua. viiuiaiy oexors -
muiiei ins center or" tne ironf.
Above this is another : shirred band.
which points down the front of the
waist in a shallow v and continues over
ths sleeves. Above this is a band of
lace, wnicn. rouows me. same line and
outlines the' yoke of tucked white chif-
' x fiv ,BinrM am ui . Millie cniiron,'
long and wrinkled, ending at the wrists I
in close cuffs of lace. . The belt ia of
, Khedive's Daughter. ;
.' ' From the London Chronicle. '
The' eldest daughter of ths khedive of
Egypt. Princes Emlna, now, in lier
inirieenin year, ta nssi ana aumo and
afflicted with a spinal complaint which
makes It Impossible for; her to walk
without support. She Is 'a beautiful
girl, and as , the Egyptian . climate rs
considered" too relaxing for her she lives
.in the lovely Island of Rhodes,' where
the khedive has great estates.
She occupies 'a beautiful palace eur-
vmnrtA1 H? vfl1v. Ilivifwv mr,A 4m ..l.u.j
several times during i tha yesr by her
parents.,.' tier mother was originally a
slave In the khedlvlal palace.
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