The Oregon daily journal., September 08, 1907, Page 38, Image 38

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' ' TUB OREGON SUNDAY "JOURNAL PORTLAND? SUNDAV MORNINO. SEPTEMBER 8 1907.
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Mrs.
The
vjrccian Fillet
for the Hair
New5
i .x. til .
CI
mm
... .,' ' ;
ra.-atrea
nne
Van-
I dertilt, Mrs.
li Huh D.
iALudhincloss
a
William Watts
SLerman in
'Gowns of "All
White
I
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' rre
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n
HAVE spoken before of the wisdom
of having a style of your own And
tlcklnr to It
It Is Jut Important to hr
T color of your own and hsr It Idea-
Etlflod with you. It la a almpl way of
falnlng- distinction and a name for ortfl
' rallty.
Mrs. Clarenea H. Mackay haa dlaoor-
red In violet bar "sympatbetlo oolor."
6h haa gowns and hats and wraps of
amethyst hue and a note of It Intro
duced Into nearly all her costumea.
Tou rarely see' Mrs. Alfred Owynna
,Vanderbllt In aiiythlng but blua tur
quoise, electric, peacock. Copanhagan,
Kattler and Wedtrwood she claims
them all aa her own.
For this we should be grateful, for
blue makes a charming background for
her fair hair and accentuatea the aiure
of her eyes.
Mra. Vanderbllt has been dividing her
time thla summer between Oakland
farm, near Newport, and har camp In
the Adirondack, Sagamore Lodge, where
ha gives Jolly Informal parlies. She
la so simple and unaffected herself that
her guests Immediately feel at home,
nd consequently enjoy themselves
hugely.
I met har the other day driving In
from the farm, and we stopped our car
riages to have a little chat.
She waa wearing a simple frock of
white lawn but through It ran the In
evitable touch of blue. Thla time It
wis a Were suggestion of a stripe of
pale blue. The note of color waa ac
centuated In bretelles of pale blue satin
which ran from the blue Batln belt over
the shoulders.
The wrist had a deep, rounded yoke
of lace edged by a fairly wide bias fold
of the material.
The aklrt was simple and long, orna
mented with only two bias folds of
lawn put on some distance above the
hem.
The bretelles of pale blue satin were
unique, being split down the center and
caught serosa with narrow trn ?
atin fastened' with turquoise buttons.
They ended st the belt under choux
tof satin. A narrow plaiting of lace
rave a finish to the outer edges of the
'bretelles.
We usually associate those big slde-
t tilting hats I mean the ones that
sweep far up at one side and down at
the other with Mrs. Alfred Vanderbllt
It was sho who first adopted this model
end wore It so faithfully that It. Is
i rather a surorlsa to im Tier In mnv
- ether shape.
But this day she was wearing a ratn
' iJJ,eo,fvent,on1y shaped hat of white
I? had bias bows and blue bows
nothing but blue bow.) nale blue ontln
ones ranged all around the brim. And
that was all the trimming the hat hod
texcept a voluminous veil of white chlf
fon which was draped from the brim.
And you havs no Idea how efefctive this
isimple trimming of ribbon was.
As there was a cool breeze blowing in
Jfrom the ea, Mrs. Vanderbllt was wear
ling a long s.ols of bLick ostrich feath
f ers.
I can't truthfully say that I admired
this addition to her toilet. It gave a
heavy accent to an otherwise light and
idalnty costume. But no doubt It was
edmlrable from a common sense point
of view. For chilly sea breezes bring
colds and other undesirable things to
even the most favored of mortals
With the social debut of 'ier daugh
ters, Mrs. William Watts Sherman blos
somed out again.
For some years she Mved quietly, but
row you see her everywhere.
Both She H Watt fthermon t.
think It necessary to play very strict
watchdog to the Sherman near-twins.
They are rarelv left to their own de
vices. One or the other of the parents
r?i..WHtt8 stl"rrT,!in I" looking verv over wav you choose to look at It.
well this vear plump and well (rroomed Mrs. Watts Bherman is clever enough
hne is wennni? white with strands of to appreciate this, and makes the most
oeautirui pearls a irooi rtesl In h n (he heuutv rf hpr 1 unw her
1851 and Mrs. Auchlneloss oontlnil
to go thers until she died at the 4
or eignt-aix.
Hugh D. and Mrs. Auchlnclo
quite as conservative as his pare
and almost always spena incir summ
at Nawnort. I often meet her drlv
with her husband In a basket phaet
As a rale Mrs. llurn u. Aucmnci
dresses quietly and simply, following
custom of many of the women memo
or our "old famines."
The other dnv aha was Wearing
unbleached linen frock, which, wl
simple in effect, was in reality v
elaborate. In detail.
White lace was skilfully combld
with button-holing and English eye!
eninroiaery.
Both skirt and waist were
of white lace. On the waist
capelike overwaiet of linen hid a gri
part or me lace, xnte ended in
etole ends which ran under the
and fell to the hem of the skirt
A yoke of contrasting lace let i
the waist was ornamented witn
bow knots, and lower down a lurge t
of stitched white linen held In pi
the linen overwaisi.
The edges of the linen overwalst
the stole ends were scalloped and
ton-holed and further decorated by
fine riestim of Knrlleh eyelet cmaro
ery. The popularity of tills embrcJ
ery does notiL em to wane. Although
was predict en inai out utile or
wouM be used on gowns thla summe
see a great many smart gowns elab
ately decorated wun It
Color was supplied for this all-i
gown In the hat. which waa small
trimmed with shaded pink roses ro
r unnlttt t4ie earn lit -of colors f i oin T
blush pink to the deep tint of Americ
Beauties.
The fad for having hat and para
match In color was again lllustra
for Mra. Auchlneloss carried a parasol
pink tucked taffeta silk. It's a pre
fashion and often adds a decided n
of oolor to what might otnerwlse be
Insipid ooatume.
The forerunners of fashion send
breathless news from abroad of a co
In vogue for things Grecian
They prophesy a revival of Orecl
draperies, soft materials hanging In lol
flowing unes ana rueiq nsir, .-Noin
Is said of bare feet shod only with s
dais, but it is as well to prepare
the worst.
It Is possible to Imagine Grecian llrl
being picturesque nnd effective In e
ring gowns and evening wraps, I
Heaven forbid that In her well-lnt
tloned zeal the American woman
to Introduce tins effect into gow
worn on other occasions. The prospd
of that is too awrui to contemplate.
For pome time there has been a Ur
Inn tendency noticeable In the dressl
of somi smr..l women's hair.
I have seen several heads with
hnlr drawn down softlv from the fo
head nnd fastened In the back well I
low the crown of tne head. Here
(Ireclan knot with softly falling cu
completed the coiffure.
And nt a recent dinner I saw a he
which boasted a real Grecian filet
slender gold.
The hair was golden, softly wav
and drawn do.vn to the back of the he:
A really new touch was given In a htitti
fly or diamonds, wme:i ornamented t
filet at one side st the back
It was mcst effective and certain
hnd. aa I said before, the virtue of n
elty.
RIVER THREATENS TOW
A Mrs. Alfred G. Vandebilt In a
Simple Gown of White Lawn, with
Touches of Bine.
B White Irish Poplin and Clnny
Laces Are Successfully Used in
Mrs. Watts Sherman's Gown.
C Linen, Lace and Embroidery
Make Mrs. Hugh R. Auchincloss's
White Frock Elaborate.
Watts Sherman Inside listening to the was wearing a gown of poplin, very hap- and lace was used to form a cap over each side anil
evening, and her wcll-shaned and well
Cared-for bands are alwavs in evidence
A beautiful hand Is reallv n gift of
Jhegoas or of your ancestors, which.
whirling along Hellevue avenue In one
of her numerous motor cars not long
mil: Ic. lly combined with heavy silk cluny
Hy the way. It's rather a fad of the lace, applied In simple lines.
Watts .Shermans to have the panels of A square yoke of fine horiiontal tuck-
thelr motor ears colored to match the ing was Inclosed by cluny lace. The
prevailing tints of their frocks. Rather same lines were folowed In the lace
D A Diamond Butterfly Poised on
a Grecian Fillet a Neve.' rud
ment for the Hair.
s faced with purple
ago. Later I saw the machine standing u good idea in color schemes. Isn't It? applied lower down on the waist. A nigh
outside the casino and found Mrs.
(in this otcaslon Mrs. Watts Sherman boned band of lace formed the collar.
the ton of the sleeve. nanne velvet.
The skirt lining was In long She carried a white silk paraso.1, heav-
stralijlit lines, only broken at the foot lly and beuutifully embroidered In white,
by a band of poplin. Hugh I). Auchlneloss has the dlstino-
Purple leathers- a rich royal purple tion of being the son of Newport's first
adorned Mrs. Watts Sherman's high- summer resident. John Auchlneloss,
crowned hat. It rolled up slightly at his father, established a home there in
HOW THE SHAH NASR-ED-DIN MANAGED
iHIS HAREM--And" His 1,500 Wives
Eustace
and Douglas life and death over all his subjects, nnd royal presents. turned the
P
de Loray
Sladen. was ulso legally lord and master of all heavily in his favor in the matrimonial
OLTGAMT U less general in Per- iS?'' 1V,,mr ",ulmai: ...... u
sla than one would believe. The escorted br his officers, and, with as back from his expeditions, seldom
popular ideas of oriental harems much seriousness as If It had been a achieved the position of "imperial"
are based uoon the excentiona of m,"tfry review, rode down between the, wives, except in the rare case of their
smiles and looks. For if the ideal of right to the title in everv respect. But
every male Persian Is to become grand they and their suites contributed to the
vizier, every Persian woman cherishes Increase of the population of the harem,
the hope of becoming a wife of the from which, to do the shah Justice, the
shah. Her family shares her hope, for veterans were never discharged. There
showers of presents and favors rain were also the women sent as presents
upon the relatives of the lord's elect. to his majesty; the governors of the
When Nasr-ed-Din Shah selected a provinces sent, as thev still send, beau-
In this way. he had her sent tlful girl slaves among the New Year's
which one naturally hears most
Tot example, as we are told that Kaar-d-Din
Shah left 1,500 widows, we can
not imagine the smallest harem with
out a profusion of women.
The harem, properly speaking, is a
' luxury; and Just as there are men in
jmw iorx woo nave no motor car. so
V :'S laiy.ax- - . ... lessons In etlauette and deDortment anr! are alwavs to he found In the exehanee
'71 . JO' Iinicni u liBir-uu-lin DO an was Sometimes In dnncinr W.r I of or. nft.n of nmiwntl between oriental unvor.
f,,a o extensive oecause every year it was accompanied her to the royal harem, in- signs. This custom has from time im-
augmented by the wives whom this toxica ted with vibions of luxury, memorlsl existed In the east,
si. dashing soTereign recruited on his gaiety and wealth. Sometimes the In a letter the governor of Egypt said
liunung ana snooting expeditions. He shah chose a married woman; the hue- to Mahomet himself: "I have read
tad a marked predilection for young band was generally delighted: the more th letter in which vou invite me to
WOmen. ana When he Was pass- Orv lens sumntumia immiia hir,t k. .knu talaralaiK - 'i'hi d.marinr. A-
Int a Villa S S Sometimes Sent nlS Oin- reoeiVAri frnm hi. knv.lvn Mfltlnn I U f, . t f DnAih., ntval ravnr and enmn lAftrala ftnH a llttl.
cers into It to order the male popula- him for the deprivation, and be lost no prophet would arise (after Jesus) but money. After all. Nasr-ed-Dln's harem
Inn fA .wltllnnv Mil In fumllll nunii. tlm. In Anlln. . . , , . i .. i ji ........ j . i m.
r. .... v. " T . , - . . r r . ... ...... . . . u ... 1 1 1 itt vi CYrm I 1 imiiian will lie wuuiu i iTn I in wa uui bu vcij nuiiumiui. iijb Kianil- , ' , , . . . , ... ' , , " -
stlon to put on their best clothes and for the mere fact of having had In Syria. In any case. I have received father. Feth-AH Shnh. the Magnificent, acquiring solute power, she makes a
draw up in two lines In the -principal his possession a wife who had at- tour envoy with high honors. He will had a far more considerable one: It Is point of overdoing it.
Streec ror mm hhumit w jhpi insm. iraciea tne royai notice proved that he present you on mv behair two young
' Everything was dene in the military brought luck to those connected with Copt maidens of noble extraction. I
- ttyl Aa shall fee cad U power of; blm. Xfais, added to the weight ot to have added to. this yreu( a wbUUi
mule, a silver-gray riding ass. garments
of Egyptian linen, choice honey and but
ter." After each of his visits to Constant!
nople the shah brought back young
beauties presented to him by the sul
tan. And in the good old times, when
balance n9 Caucasus, the country of beautiful
women, was a j-ersian province, tne
governor never missed sending every
year to his sovereign a vast number
of Georgian and Circassian slaves, who,
distributed among the grandees of the
kingdom, have certainly exercised a
great effect in making the Persian race
s6 beautiful.
All these, added to the political wives,
the slaves and the servants, made the
royal harem a regular barracks. So
there was nothing extraordinary In
Nasr-cd-Din leaving 1,500 widows at
his death. The shah's widows, apart
from the principal wives, who had their
fortunes mnde nnd became Imperial
widows, were generally dismissed by his
successors and found husbands among
the small merchants and tradesmen of
the town.
These men were proud to marry
women who hal enjoyed the distinction
of belonging to the royal household.
For even if their wives were not very
fascinating, they still had the tialri of
with a wife who lias been chosen for
him by his parents; only when he
thinks proper he relieves the monotony
by the inn chase of a beautiful young
slave. This personage, 11s she remains
a slave, does not affect the position of
the legitimate wife, whom she in obliged
to obey. However, Jaelousy may none
the less drive the wife to hnte the slave
If she is too yoyng or too beautiful, and
this poor creature will find only u very
thin shield in the love of her master
against the poisoned darts of his hostile
wife, she will Inflict a variety of tor
ments on her; the lack of education In
the Persian woman keeps her at such
A LITTLE TALK ON ICE
Some Thought as to the Reasons for
an Extra Cake on Each Load.
From the New York Sun.
They were standing on lower Broad
way fairly early In the morning about
2 o'clock that is when a string of Ice
wagons went rumbling and clattering extra piece to make up for tw nl
by.
The Missouri Likely to Ruin Pari
vllle's Business Prospects.
From the Kansas City Times
"The Missouri river's the biggest larl
robber In the world.."
Jorn Haynes. a white haired man
talking as he looked from his residoni
in the main street of Parkville, Mb
sourl, to the south, where the rlvf
stretched away three miles to the blui
on the Kansas side.
"I've wntched thnt river for 85 vears.
he continued. "I've seen beautiful crop
of grain growing where that stretch o
water Is now, I've seen those rich bot
torn farm lands dotted with farmhouses
and a schoolhouse once stood away ovel
there near that long lanilhar. I ve see
the farmers' fields taken by the rive
thief and their crops destroyed by th
npring rises, and finally they them
selves driven out aid forced to movi
their homes to the bluffs."
Every resident of farkville. nine mile:
north of Kansas CKy, is watching thi
Missouri river. Altfays known for do
Ing the unexpected, the "Big Muddy'
now threatens to leve tne town entire
ly and cut a new channel far to thj
south of the oldest river port above thq
mouth of the Kaw. Already the channe
has moved away to such a dlstancdl
that tne intake pipe or tne city wateit
works system, wblth is owned by Park!
college, now lies under only six Inches
of water and ha had to be aburdnnej
Ten vears ago. when the pine was in
stalled, it was 14 feet below the river's!
urfaoe.
For 10 rears the Missouri has been
gradually widening at Parkville, but thel
stream naa neen more active the 1
two years. Since last spring therv'er
has ben veritably eating away w south
bank, end the channel la slowly follow
ing li this direction. Old river men say
that it may be expected to continue Its
Inpiftds until the channel will hug the
Ktnsas bluffs from Parkville to Quln-
ddro.
Among the heaviest land losers fro:
ihn Inrmiri. tt trim rfvor eaet nf the tt
of Main street If Park college. Yoarsyliy
the athlntl--?:eiu of the institution
south of the campus In what la now t
river bed. East of this many acres o
Ma hnut form land have been washet
away. Lying east of the college land
was formerly a 120-acre farm belonging
to John Haynes. The river has ta"n
it nil excert four or five acres. The
small remnant Mr. Haynes sold reoently
for $75 and the transfer deed he gave
included the rest of the 120 acres over
i t i . i ifi.. .. i .1.,.. nnm Avranfll. .
which in miss'Juii uyui un - a
I don't think there could be a stand-in 1
of that kind without the ice corapmyi
crA 1 1 irttr nn "
They boarded a car and rode uptown. '
"Oh. I have an Idea," said No. i, Dread
ing the silence; "it's to allow for melt-
""What's to allow for melting?" asked
No. 1. ...
"That extra cake of ice," he replied,
"They want to have Just so much Ice
to cover a rente ana they carry
age.'
throne ner rival; and lr sne still nas a
little authority over her husband, either
in virtue of her fortune or her family,
she will take the opportunity of inflict
ing some corporal punishment on the
slave for even the slightest fault.
The nrospect of such a home might
Incline the Persian to remain a bachelor
If, for one thing, the fact of being h
bachelor were not In bad odor, and. for
another, he were not confident of the
superiority conferred on his proving
n . - . 1 . mj. V.tV.
Did you ever notice th, extra cak, !dI ntVers'' said NoT.' 'The, 4
p tne i&iiy unieaa uiey
WMthtr would be.
4M. 4 Ma oH Mil 9.
. . i u llsl W .u bits at ur
asKea- "becaute 1 don't know what Is the rea-
"No," the other replied. 80n Maybe they do It because they
Then' they looked and found that eacMfcjjfca to have an extra cake hanging
curt, tnougn loaaea as iuii as it couia out
a very low level of mentality that she of ica hanging behind Ice carts when couldn't keep up
will not reject the most ignoble means aro fu,Iy loaded?" one of the two knew what the w
in her attempts to overthrow and de- ' v nfeTe to gi
he, had an extra cake hanging in the
grasp of a pair of tongs down from a
chain in the rear of the wagon.
"What is that for?" asked No. 2.
"I don't know exactly. I never asked
any driver. Perhaps It's put there so
when tne anver gets inirsiy ne can lane
extra caKe into a saloon and get
Tes, and 'maybe It's because eftctt
lit to hold so and-aimany
ffieti im mora." Barak, the
discoverer, end that ended the cor?
sat Ion.
wagon la bu
cakes and
Life.
Thomas Car
3
r
MM that at the time of his death he
bad more than a thousand descendants. Recent rainsdld good to crops ia
Tht sensible Persian content himself loutntru Qregofc.
the extra cake Into a
sufficient. ta-4Dfsrce peace, in hlu homa.-r4nk 4M the strength, f the ioe. That
as in any otner .country, mucn depends would be a sort or grart which would Think of Ivina-' Thv Ufa. wert thou
upon the energy; of the man. for when keep a driver and his helper pretty well !" ,J , "I.TJ
a Ierslan wife has the opportunity of stocked with drinkables,'' was the ob-v the pittfulei t U ths sons of earth.
server s explanation. Is no Idle ara, out a solemn reauty.
X don't believe thatrthat can be the It Is thy oin. It Is all thou, liast to
reason," said -the other fellow, "be- front eternly with. Work, then, even
cause they would have to ,get the con-1 aa he has done, and does,, like a
Mat ot Un man who load tat wagon, star, unhasfng- yot uaregUng. ,
t
J 4
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