CAREER
..Vi'.-
KB-A
i if
i 'WILLIAM DEMORGAN '
"
By Katharine White.
O make a nam and build up a
profitable business in the art
I world of New Tork is not what
A ono would call an easy matter.
It is the goal toward which are
set the feet of struggling art students
all over the United States. It marks
the desired end of hundreds of men and
women who have not yet secured their
foot hold. It la the mecca of ambi
tious and less talented thousands who
are sure they have the requisite talent
yet who will never see the fulfillment
Of their hopes.
A Portland girl has done Just that,
however, and though she modestly dis-
claims having reached the top In her
partlcular line, the fact remains that
she has steady employment and that
her designs are appearing on some of
the leading works or leaaing puo
llsbers. Some years ago Miss Bertha
Stuart put out at Christmas time, in
Portland, a Chinese calendar. It was
done so cleverly, with such fidelity
and quaint humor that it was eagerly
Dougnt ana eastern puoiisners wire
ttraotffri tn thn artlsf. Chinese cal-
endars were immediately declared the
rage, and all sorts of Imitations were
prodiiced, but by that time the fancy
of those seeking novelty had turned to
something else. The Chinese work was
the beginning of Miss Stuart's Individ-
uai career, one is a Jjnicagoan Dy oirin-
STRIVING TO DIGNIFY
Continued from
fortUef; others blame it on the men,
declaring that they have withheld their
" aid.
But there is a goodly number who
say the whole thing Is attributable to
the lack of suffrage by women a right
which ia enjoyed In but four states of
the union.
For, they maintain, without j.he power
of the ballot-box behind them their
most energetic efforts must be largely
futile, since the wages paid to any
class of workers are determined by the
political influence of that body.
That women may be benefited finan
cially' by cooperation was illustrated by
the statement that tobacco strippers of
New Haven, Connecticut, recently
gained nearly J7 a week by this means.
A woman who expressed assurance
that women could be raised to men's
scale of wages by proper organization
was Mrs. Maate Lee Cooke, who is paid
12,100 a year as a telegraph operator.
Of course, she is a union woman.
The simple fact is, those leaders as
sert, that the Ameriacn working woman
Is becoming too independent to longer
admit her inferiority to man in any
field of labor into which she enters.
Despite anything that may bo said to
the contrary, she maintains that the
very fact that she is paid smaller
wages stamps her as inferior,
Balm for the American working
woman's feelings may, however, be
found in the fact that, although behind
man in her own country, her condition
Is far better than that of working
women anywhere else.
Even these occupations of an es
pecially strenuous nature in this coun
try need be undertaken by women only
from choice.
No American woman, for Instance, is
compelled, as are so many peasant
women of 8lberla, to dig gold ore and
turn the cranks of oreholsting wind
lasses in weather 20 degrees below zero
mt m. maximum nay of J2.60 a week.
The Belgian women toll frpm dawn
until tusct at the heaviest kind of
worltpyfor Incredible small pay. They
sycvery heavy share of the mining of
wagons of coal on the surface, but
u a, mil I iiu uv w uuuu kisu uwauv wiu
actually go down Into the black shafts
and .dig Side by side with men.
A lew years ago jonn Alexander
Dowie thought he could make more
money in his Zlon colony, near Chi
cago, If be should Import Belgian
m
A
WO
H5-
right, but Portland claims her, as It is
this city that she has called home for
many years. She Is the daughter of
Mr. and MrE. C. Stuart, and the sister
of Mrs. Lloyd Wentworth
First Art Training;.
" Miss Stuart had her first
irt training
as a pupil in the Chicago Art Institute.
After leaving Portland she took two
years In historic ornament at Cooper
Union, New York.
During the ti,me that she was making
the up-hill struggle, which every artist
of whatever ability encounters in New
York, she and other art students
"bached" in flats and had many of the
amuBlng experiences which keeps hearts
young and hopes up In the long, hard
working days. Life becomes a little
less arduous now and she will this
winter have a cosy flat with one boon
companion, a young woman librarian,
in New York City, with a helping hand
extended to one art
Btlll on the climb.
student who is
an lne wl)rK'
Yes, I am coming
to that, if slowly.
n is in designing dook covers tnat
Miss Stuart has made her most signal
success. Two of the leading novels of
the day, published by Henry Holt and
company are examples of Miss Stuart's
woi
These are shown In the lllustra-
First Page of This Section
women to do the work. He 6ffered
them very small wages, Judged by
American standards, and yet were very
much higher than they could have made
in Belgium.
The poorest paid shop girl in the
United States would sneeze at the pay
of the Belgian woman, who must sit all
day long preparing clay for moulders
in brick works who. throughout the
changing temperature of the day, con
tract rheumatism,, which In a few years
unfits her for work.
Those of King Leopold's subjects
who work in the oyster beds and there
are many of them must don trousers
like the men and work as hard as any
of them.
iiven in advanced England the work
ing woman's condition is deplorable,
compared with that of her sister in the
United States. Light on this was thrown
by an Investigation by the select com
mittee of the house of commons.
One woman. It developed, finished
trousers at 1 cent a pair, each pair re
quiring two hours' labor. A half cent
an hour! Six cents for a 12-hour day!
But it was in Scotland that the worst
conditions were found in Glasgow at
that Glasgow, which lays claim to
being one of the most advanced cities
in the world.
The rate of remuneration for home
work for women was, It was found,
largely left to the conscience of the
employer. The payment for shirt
making in the home work varied from
29 cents to 34 cents per dozen, and this
reduced to a rate per hour made from
2 to 3 cents, and In rare cases 8a cents
per hour.
This made but 30 cents a dav for a
10-hour day, or only $1.80 a week, while
In almost any kind of factory work in
the United States a elrl can make over
$4 a week. ,-
-There are many makers of shirts and
underwear In Glassow who make only
31.20 a week, and working 12 hours a
day at that.
Said a Scotch woman to her mistress
In an American home where she was
employed as chambermaid:
"On the other side I made $6 a month.
Here I make 120 a month and am treat
ed like a human being. They don't treat
a working girl thr way over there."
It is possible to tell pretty accurate
ly .what girls are paid for different
classes or woric In Great Britain.
For domestic service in Bcotl
a month is considered vnnA
land 3
In Belfast. Ireland. 89 cents to U'a
week Is the earning capacity of women
employed as folders In the oaoer-box
THE ' OREGON SUNDAY
PORTLAND
ft
SC.
1 tt"
tlons. Joseph Vance, by 'William De
Morgan, and Princess Passes, by C. N.
and A. M. Williamson, may be in many
Portland homes. Another chnrmlnir de-
tnat ftftn on ..A Tha Hirii. nr.
t"at feen on A" Te Hfgue r'
aalns, the Journal of a Russian offl-
cer's wife, who went to Japan to be
near her husband, who was a prisoner
THEIR TOIL
factories. In America S5 to 310 a week
is made for the same work.
For handling mucilage and shoe pol
ish in a British ractory a girl gets 32 a
week, but the work is disagreeable, and
she must wear overalls.
Embroidery workers in Ireland get
but 18 to 25 cents a day for their beau
tiful, rich product.
A bcotch woman, comparing the con-
dltions of working women in America
and Great Britain, stated that the dif
ference is about In the ratio of 33 per
weeK tnere to Jiz a week In this coun
try. She said:
"I have been in , this country but
three years, and have more money in
bank than I could have made in Eng
land, Jrelind and Scotland in 20 years.
I wear beUet clothes every day than I
had there for Sunday, and am treated
like a woman Instead of like a stone."
In England efforts are being made
to abolish the position of barmaids
of whom there are 27,000 on the pre
text that they are insufficiently paid,
making but 31.25 to $3.50 a week.
In France the condition of the work
ing woman is better than in any other
country except the United States.
Yet even there discrimination between
men and women is made in regard to
Py.'
J? or instance, taking. the vocation of
store lemployes, the difference between
men's and women's wases runs about
as follows:
Men First year after apprenticeship,
310; third year, 315; eventually. 330.
Women Second year after appren
ticeship, 310; third year, 315; eventual
ly. 325.
There, women servants get 34 to 38 a
montn; women cooks, J 6 to 37.
w . i . . -
French saleswomen work hard and
long hours, but are well treated and
well paid, and stores hiring 500 to 900
saleswomen usuallv have applications
from 7.000 to 8,000 annually.
Another method of paying the sales
women of Paris is to guarantee a cer
tain yearly amount and give commis
sions on all goods sold. '
While the pay of the French woman
ia perhaps smaller than that of Amer
ican girls similarly emnlnyed. It must
be -remembered that living there is
much cheaper.
Tom auinenttc ngures compiled a
few years ago In the various countries,
it appears mat tne proportion of wo- mo ana personal ciass, o.si ln the fish
men wageearners .'between ais of 10 eries, 2.02 ln the forestry and lumbering
and 70) to the total female populations industries, 33.83 ln manufacturing, 2.93
run about-as follows: in mining and 6.34 per cent in the pro
United States. 17 r cent: Germany, fesslonal class. -
JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY- MORNING,' AUGUST
GIRL
i
AS
1
1 -
anony-
of war. This was published
mously. but it Is not fiction. It is
the real record of real tragedies.
Design Tells Story.
A glance shows how the artist has
covered by the striking design a hint
at the personality and character of the
34 per cent; United Kingdom, S6 per
cent.; Italy, 50 per cent.; Austria, 64
per cent.; Switzerland. 88 per cent. So
the problem of dignifying womans toll
is by no means restricted to America.
PRISONERS' PETS.
Animals and Birds Tamed
and
Trained by Convicts.
From Pearson's Weekly.
A curious and pathetic, albeit not so
uncommon feature of prison life was
touched upon the other day when a man
named Kelley complained to the magls-
trate that he had been prevented by the
warders from bringing out of prison
with him a rat that he had tamed.
Prisoners at all times have been in
the habit of making pets of the four
footed creatures that haunt their pris
ons. Big Bull Johnson, In his day a
notorious South London character,
trained mice in Pentonvllle, and trained
them so cleverly that on his release he
was able to earn over fflO by exhibiting
them, sufficient to set him up in busi
ness. Sparrows, blackbirds, spiders and
even flies have all been made pets of
by convicts; and not long ago a sad
little story found Its way Into the press
of how a Portland "lifer" named Per
sons was driven insane through the
confiscation of a field mouse He had
caught and tamed.
wainwrlght. the Whitechapel mur-
derr tyiaiIa frlenrla with thA nrfMn no
nrt ,ntrrilnt(.H th rhaniai'- .ihu.
tions at the foot of the gallows to in
quire concerning its welfare. Prichard,
the double-dyed poisoner, kept a guinea
lg with him In Glasgow Jail and shed
liter tears at parting with It.
Few criminals, however, have pos-
sessed such power over animals as did
the Spaniard Guevarra, who was exe
cuted some years back ln Newgate for
v. v. ....... i , . .. r . WAmnM T T
u u iai III ui 'ci u, a nviiio.il t 1 1 4 4 1 1 1 if
.oh u..v, ij an t.n.j ,
rats so that they would come at his call
and follow him about anywhere. The
prison mice, too, would come running
out of their holes at the sound of his
voice. And even the sparrows, attracted
apparently by the strange personality
of the man. flew in flocks to his cell
window.
From the reports of the labor census
bureau of Canada It appears that the
wage earners of both sexes in the do
minion include 8.93 per cent enaaared In
agriculture, 25.61 per cent in the domes-
r : Bertka Stuart, Who la Rapidly Wmning
mt fif fi Whl
book. This Is. as will be seen, the sine
qua non of the book cover designer, and
a rock upon which many a really tal
ented artist might founder,
always easy to convey at
It is not
a glance,
and with skill which study but more
closely reveals the distinguishing char
acteristics of a book.
"As The Hague Ordains," has as Its
most striking feature, the cross of the
ortier or oi. Lfeorge, wnicn a Kussian
officer of high rank would wear. The
background is enlivenled by a thor-
oughly Japanese dragon. "In the
Shadow." by Henry C. Rowland, another
bonk for which Miss Stuart rfeslened
the cover, is a tale of southern life,
The cover shows great cypress trees
hung with long, grey moss. Miss Stu-
wives in businessNo Woman stouU
Work Outside Her Home After Marriage
By Mrs. John A. Logan.
(Copyright. 1907. br Amerlcin-JoamalEx.mlner)
' M '
I AM asked by one of my readers If
married women whose husbands can
.t,nM rnnttnn fir he-
support them should continue or be-
come members of the army of wage-
earners outside of their homes.
w t. -,r,v,n rrtlnlv not
My reply is emphatic, certainly not.
In the first place, women should not
marry men who are unable to provide a
.,hi. i lfnr th,mJVM
comfortable living for themselves and
their faimtlies. No matter how strong
the affections existing between men
and women, they have no right to marry
if there is any doubt abuot the ability
of the men to support their families.
n the next place the i wife as the
homekeeper cannot possibly fulful the
duties of any position which requires
her attention from eight to ten hours
each day away from her house, and at
the same time properly attend to her
home duties.
No matter how liberal the compensa-
tlon, there can be no economy In the
matter of financial income because of
the loss that inevitably follows the
failure of one to give personal atten-
tlon to domestic affairs. Perfect serv-
ants may be secured, yet without Individ-
uai supervision ttiey are always expen-
sive, to say nothing of , their wages,
room. Doara ana tne general wear ana
tear thev cost ner cartita.
Tnen. again paid services can never
brlna- the same hamv results that flow
from thane rendered hv lovlna hands,
Neither will an employe manlfset the
nam. Init Ikm.ihlfiiliMii -
that of an interested rtarty. One must look upon lfe as a desperate struggle There was no mors response than
feel a proprietorship ln everything un- and lose much of that delicate touch- from a hotel elevator,
dertaken to insure constant and wise of sentiment so essential to a woman's I pressed the button again. ' -action
and profitable returns. happiness. Most women revel ln roman- No result. j l.
It is lmposlble to serve two masters, tic ideas, and when these are all taken "Polly,' said S can't get down'
No woman can do Justice to her em- out of their minds they rebel and be- "Rubbish!" snapped Polly "There' '
ployer and her husband at the same come very resentful against the,disso- she added, "that's gone down'" throwln'r
time. One or the other must be sao- lutlon of their Illusions; hence It Is well a can of tomatoes over the side. t
rlflced too frequently to produce har- to protect them as Ion as possible I peered cautiously at the earth. Th
mony and success. from the slings and shots of a wuge heavy can had gone through the rf '
We are all creatures of habit, and habit earner's lfe. - of a tent. -. 1 duC on full soeed tot tfi
becomes second nature. To be obliged It is time enough for women to put next county. .
to put aside wifely, and, perhaps, ma- on their armor and go forth to battle "We can jump off the ship, JV-'' I
ternai auues, to nil ocngations lm-
posed through financial engagements,
will sooner or later deaden the keeness
of a woman's affections and delight in
the special duties for which
vou m-
'
a wife
tended womankind.
Another notent nunn whv
should not attempt to share ln earning
money outside of her home la that
eventually the husband may begin to
depend upon her earnings ln hi cai-
25. .1007... . ,
mi
SI
0 Jk.
art tells of hunting for grey moss all
over New York, haunting florists' and
decorators' shops, until finally an obllg-
ing person found a bit left over
from Christmas deoorations, down In
the cellar.
The
Open Road," a collection
of
poems.
is charmingly done in soft
charmingly done
1atViAr with trAPM In irnlrfl
"Pedagogues and Parents." a recent
volume by Ella Callsta Wilson, is strik-
ingiy coverea. 1 ne leading iemure uv
the decoration Is little children perus-
lng enormous books, only their little
foreheads and toes appearing beyond
the weighty toes. These are done in
renetition over the cover and make a
unique and delightfully humorous deo-
oration.
A French firm of publishers asked
culations for the household and family
expenses, and in consequence make less
exertion himself. It would be difficult
for one to reCall a single instance where
once the wife earned or inherited money
that it did not affect the husband most
unfavorabIy He elther DeComes more
extravagant or less energetic and in-
dustrious.
The most serious however, of all rea-
amm wfay the w,fo BhouId devote her
whole tl to her home and her family
is that by this means she can keep
husband and children loyal and faithful
tQ hef and to the home It rather
discouraging for a husband to go home
when his labors in any field are dona
to rlnd th8 n0U8e ln disorder, his wife
aa weary as himself from her work
outside, the meal late and often repul-
,lve and unsatisfactory, and the very
atmosphere disagreeable.
He usually gets out as soon as pos-
glble an(j joes to his club or some more
harmful rendezvous to spend his leisure
moments. He has probably come to
feel his society is not necessary to his
wife's napplness, and that through her
own income, Independent of his efforts .
she is growing indifferent to him and
their children. If they have any .
No amount of wages or salary can
compensate for the destruction of the
peace and happiness of any home. It
is better far to live tne simpler lire
'
and practise the rigid economy that maiwiy at first and then like a chant
r unavoiaaDie to Keep me expenses
tpenses
miihin ih husband's or father a re- '
within the husband's or fathers re-
sources,
rt la had enoua-h for women to
be
lelr
vlnnArt hefore thev marrv: their
experiences almost without exception
- frslnr ThaV namtk tn
wiin me worm wnen stent necessity
drives them into fields where they must
do or die for themselves and the most
dependent upon them. Women have.
proven njoir ijimj w win victories
over unsurmountable barriers; but spars
them M lonf an poaslbh' from the com-
bats of life. tv--T-;':. - .
Independence is a gratifying thought
If one's environment is galling; but it
la aaaaht ia comparison irlUt, the lovs
an International Rcputatoa
Si
prmllon to reproduce this same eor
er, attracted by lta delightful character
It waa done for Henry Holt & Co. "The
Star of Bethlehem." an old morality
play, brought out by Fox & Duffleld.
Is a departure from the ordinary. Jt
ha the three wise men In ailhouatte)
. aralnat a white background, and Is full
of feollng.
"Santa Fe's Partner," by Thoma
Janvier, publlnhed by the Harpers, has
one of ll8s Stuart's covers, represent
ln scattering bunches of sage. Mora
freedom and eual appropriateness Is
shown In the tale of Southern Cali
fornia land grants, by Charles D. Stuart.
It Is called "CasH Grande." and bears
an Illustration of an old mission tower
with the bell, the key note being taken
from the netting of the story.
In "A Maid of Japan," by Mrs. Hugh
Fraser, Miss Stuart had more liberty,
for here she did the decorations .
throughout, and all In oriental manner,
which she understands so well and han
dles so effectively. In designing book;
plates Miss Stuart Is equally at home.
Book plates are perhaps not yet recog
nized as a household necessity with us
In the west, but they are rapidly be-
coming so.
The Book Plate.
If one "ts a collector of books natur
ally one wants tomo means of Identify
ing the volumes which form the li
brary. The book plate, which ia usu
ally engraved on Japan paper and
pasted in the front of the book, is sup
posed to convey some hint of the per
sonality, tastes, or lineage of the owner.
If one has a coat of arms, which most
of us have not, that is embodied In
the book plate; if one has musical
tastes, the Instrument of one's affection 1
may be used in the design. Whatever
is distinctive and individual may be)
embodied by the artist who designs the
book plate.'
In eastern cities the Importance of
book plates is recognized by many col-
lectors who have portfolios of them.
by lecturers who instruct the publlo In
regard to their filne points, by exhib
itors who display them, and by writers
who inform as to their character and
meaning. Book plates are one of the
fads of the moment, and are probably
quite as engrossing as postage stamps
or autographs. (You will notice that
I halt at postal cards.)
It will be still same time before Port- :
land will afford a livelihood for artists
who design book Covers, title pages,
borders and book plates, and so Miss
Stuart must return in a few weeks to
New York. The best wishes for her
suocess and a deal of Interelt In her
career follows the Portland girl WhO)
has "arrived.
and tenderness of a worthy devoted
husband, who Is ready to .shield a wife
from all harm and conflicts.
Let it be the ambition of American
women to make their homes, "be they
ever so humble, the dearest spot on
earth to their husbands and children,
Let the men be the "hewers of wood
and drawers of water," while the wives
and mothers brew and bake and make
the home a place for rest and recrea-
tlon. Let the men be brave and true,
and scorn to share in the plenty de-
rived from the sweaung of the brows
cf the gentler sex.
.
jn.. AJrshln Rrnrimenfal
xat '""mP Bentimenai.
It was a lovely day. The sun was
shining overhead showlna as .Pnll
" ! ?Zl . ,
remarked, a great lack of variety,
sinoe he might Just as well have shone
underfoot. There were clouds in th
" ' T V.i. . ! .
KT ana lots of air ln the wind,
"Come on, Polly," I cried. "The Cloud
mra is readv " -
L
ouy gracefully stepped aboard, trip -
ping slightly over ths alcohol lamn
which anolliu her alrirt k
wmcl "e nr ". UV Otherwise
T5L9erulJJr ,n "
tb
Plra . rose into the air.
"'-
O
or an hour or twn w ma
" ,.u"'-.",ai ' wim an adorable
Pount "Qeerrm dead tired of this;
let's go home.- took this as a hint
n f .V. . 1 1 . . . . .
and Immediately pressed the button.
markad "nn w.ww,
said, tut I. as caotain. mint h i ' '
leave, and when you Jump the l iuud.
Bird will only shoot lj(hr up"
The thought turned my tiart intu ,
lead, and naturally we ""-..
a this ptessant prosit I naturally
became liaht-Nsrted. and the eirshit,.
of course. Wan to rise again.-
So we ee--ed tor nvrl - .Hon re.
Finally I tgd i'ullt in promise to
marrv iue. - ,