THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND,' SUNDAY MORNING, ' AUGUST IS, 1807,
r, TrWM" liLUJii .mu y V IWAMliXjWi
fr
Afternoon
Frocks Vorn
at Newport ty
Mrs. Prescott
lawrence, Mrs.
W. G. Roelker
ana Mrs. Joh n
Nickolas Brown
Egyptian Scarf
, of White witk
Silver Spangles
Worn ty Miss
; Janet Fisk
THE word "exquisite" seems to bast
: describe Mrs. W. G. Hoelker, who
hM certainly .impressed us at
Newport sine she first cams to
- : , us no matter how much soras
; people hav been a Uttls disgruntled
at her several goodly successes.
Her dress Is always almost quite per
faction. Her carriages are quit com
plete In every detail. Her entertaln-
meats are really very well thought out.
Anyway even the elements seem to
treat her gently, for she can arrive at
' the end of a Ions; motor trip looking
wonderfully unruffled. . But Ihfn, you
must remember, she has French blood
- flowing In her veins. She certainly ha
that desirable something that Is so hard
' to describe. Is It Innate?
When all the rest of us are dust
' begrimed and dishevelled. Coralle Cou-
dert that was Is fresh and dainty tn her
.- long blue motor coat, -worn over a trim
blue dress and topped by a close-fitting
Frenchy looking motoring hat, which
' puts to shame some of the ready-to-;
wear atrocities X sea women we all know
; wearing.
We look forward to Mrs. Roelker s
. dinners with. Interest, for they are
unique. She always has some original
centerpiece and most original touch of
all she invariably has her dinners to
match her dinner gowns..
If she is wearing a pink gown the
decorations of her dinner table are pink;
If a yellow gown big yellow roses riot
over the cloth. One dinner she gave not
long ago had for a centerpiece a Illy
pond with water lilies floating white
- and cool on it. On this occasion our
hostess wore a gown of whit and
sliver. t. . ..... ..- -
Dinner Decoration to Match Gowns.
. This Is a pretty scheme and works
well, except In the case of one en-
' terprlsing womsn who copied Mrs.
Roelker's idea. She gave a violet din
ner and. to the disgust of some of her
guests, had violets set afloat In the
soup. It seemed rather a wast of
flowers and certainly spoiled the soup.
I hav seen Mrs. Roelker driving at
Newport this year in an English basket
phaeton, and she has been wearing a
different gown on each occasion.
I met her the other day holding the
reins over her smart little cob. She
looked as fresh as the pink garden
. roses she had tucked In her belt
She was wearing one, of the popular
lingerie dresses a really exquisite one
of lace and embroidery comparatively
simple In design, but elaborate In de
tail. It was made of the Sheerest French
batiste and worn over a slip of pale
blue silk, which showed through the
diaphanous fabric quite distinctly.
A hat of pale tinted chip was trimmed
with pale blue sa,tln ribbon and big full
blown pink ronen. Two pink roses
tucked In her belt echoed the not of
color in her hat.
A yoke of finest French embroidery
extended to the sleeves and ended in a
straight boned collar. Shaped pieces of
batiste embroidered in striking polka '
dot design and bordered on either side
by Valenciennes lace outlined the yoke.
Suspender-like pieces of the batiste and
lace ran from the belt over the shoul
ders. On the skirt the same piece ran from
belt to hem. Around the skirt wer
two bands of the polka dot embroidery
and lace.
The sleeves were puffs reaching Just
above the elbows and ending in a
straight cuff of embroidery and lace.
The waist had a becoming fullness In
troduced in little pin tucks just below
the yoke.
Mrs. Roelker as usual had flat pearl
earrings in her ears.
.Never has there been a greater vogue
for white lingerie dresses than this
year.
Many of them are made on princess
models, waist and skirt being Joined in
the working out of the design of lace
and embroidery.
Some have an obvious belt of lace.
Others are worn with flowered ribbon
girdles.
, But all of them boast exquisite needle
work on finest of fine material Indeed
some of them ere quite marvels of de
sign and execution. -
' rreacott iiwrence ha ku.
I 4 1 , YtyC-WIrlLfKV -j- . 'V ' II B Mrs. Prescott
A1 1 !f$yHlv AYV III Lawrence WPar. a
iT 4 V xfe ! Y ir fn 1 i liMI Gown of v,0,et L,n"
caUed the "New Engiand"Dlana"lshe l, orae
so cold and stately. A little too dig
nified, some think, but I admire her for
that very quality. I wish she could lend
to one or two women of our set a little
of her surplus repose of manner.
Her daughter. Kittle, is a great con
trast to her. She is sweet and piquant
and demure.
Mrs. Prescott Lawrence has an Indi
vidual taste In dress. , For Instance. I
saw her during the afternoon drive
wearing a hat of brown with a white
linen gown. That goes to show what a
hold brown still has on popular farovr.
The linen gown was Quite an elab
With insets of heavy lace.
These were used In an original way,
forming a br'oad panel on the skirt from
waist line to hem and outlining the
yoke. The panel of the skirt extended
up onto the waist, where It formed a
girdle effect, over which the waist
bloused jBllghtly, fastening with two
huge buttons.
The sleeves were made with the fash
ionable "sling" effect, formed by a fold
of the palm linen. From out this
fieeped a diminutive sleeve of lace, end
ng in very frilly ruffles Just above
the elbow.
Mrs. Prescott Lawrence's hat was. as
I . said before, brown a large, flat
shape, around which curled brown feath
ers, pr&ped on the brim was a white
lac veil, without which no costume
worn at Newport this year seems quite
complete.
The veil was not, however, as most of
them are, of lace. It , was of thickly
dotted point d'esprit, with a wide bor
der of lace. A really most-becoming
change from the all-over lace veil.
Shades of violet are much to the for
this summer. There's something very
sympathetic about this color. It ap
peals to many women of perfect taste.
I've seen Mrs. Watt's Sherman arrayed
in "purpl and fin linen" literally .
for she has been wearing a gown of
heavy unbleached Italian linen, with a
hat 4 mass of purple feathers. , Mrs.
Oliver Oould Jennings also has a fetch
ing little violet silk gown, and the other
day I met Mrs. John Nicholas Brown .
spinning along far out on ths Ooean
Drive in a really "stunning" ' suit of
purple linen. . . '
Th responsibility of being the moth
er Of th anttseptlcated-sterillsed-mil-lionair
baby doesn't seem to weigh on
Mrs. John Nicholas Brown at all. She
looks happy and care-free and sits in
her carriage with a pretty ereotness Of
pose which wins roy admiration. .
You know, Hfcs. Brown was Natall
Dresser, a sister of Mrs. George Van
derbllt of Biltmore, Snd of Mrs. George
Orenvllle Merrill. Mrs. Merrill's hus
band was once rector of St. Mary's the
little church w all say our prayers tn
at Tuxedo. He now has a church In
Buffalo. All three sisters are women
of simple tastes and usually Of simple
dress, but this violet gown of Mrs,
Brown's was fairly elaborate. .
Purple Now a Favorite Color.
It was of the coat and skirt variety.
The little coat was an Eton, and al-
thcugo It dipped Just in front it raised!
at the sides sufficiently to show a hlghl
Shaped glrdl. Vv' :'-.: . '-; vv -,:1:;. '.. I
On th jacket the linen was out out inl
diamond-shaped pieces, , showing , white
inset below., '-'Heavy lae was used fdrl
th collar and the turn-back cuffs onl
j th slvesv ' '"' it I
around th bottom of th Jacket rani
Shaped bands of - lace, which did not!
quit me in iraim w ibjiwui
downward turning pui : I
- Th sleeves were full puffs. Thy
iiu htit ths cut-out ' deooratlon. amlf
ended below the lao cuff in filmy frillHf
rh. skirt- was Ions- and mad with
out plaits jor fullness at th waist line
tram the hem were cut-l
out diamonds, sharply mphaslwd byi
Sk. aV. t kanaatk k .' I '' I
- Purpl wings trimmsd a hat f white!
. Snip. Baucy wings iny "t s-"-i
1. Ji.aK an ntharwlaa almol hat.- - I
Of oours Mrs. John Nicholas Brownl
' wore a whit lao veil, and most becom-l
. Ing It was to ner. . . -, , .
. IwaiiJa ntnmlnt from a tTlD UB ln
Kile have brought us fasolnatlng scarf
rof Egyptian tissue., heavily wroughtl
with silver and gold spangles, put on inl
- Odd and intricate assigns. ' I
Although tbes sasrfs not newj
I if nnlv verv lately that W104V reaN
tsed . their beauty when usaJ
ventng wrspa . !
This summer w are all wearing tl
shlmmarins things thrOwn around
' ahAiiMara over our dinner srowns.
Th are really wonderfully bPomn
In and give a sort , of oriental touclJ
which always holds a fascination.
Some of thee scarfs hav been fash
Innarf lot loaJcs. reachlns ault to the
bottom of th skirt For they com Inl
different els, from tn snort ana nar-i
row. scarf to on yard long and wld4
In proportion. .
A lovely cloak 1 saw worn on the ter-l
race arter a dinner 'ima summer wan
mi af . Rs-TDtlsn scarfa It was oil
closely woven silky material, with aij
elaborate aeaign appuea in stiver span-j
gles. It was maae someining on i"'
am atvl as a German military cloak
with sleeves, of course and hung M
straight and unbroken lines from neck
Tn trtmL lust below th chin. It was
fastened with a quaintly wrought Bgyp J
tlan silver ciasp. it giowea ana gm
tered in th dim light in quit a fairy
WkMlsant Fish is wearing a ehori
one of white wiin goia spangies-
t nMhihW more nractlcal than thf
longer ones, as th metal used is res
ll anil alWar and the welcht is noli
inconsiderable and might do qulttf
crushing damage to a rragii gown.
PERFECT WOMEN
From trie Greek and Mod
ern Standard of Beaut
eve HE "oerfect woman, noblyl
I " planned" of the poet differ
I somewhat from that of the art-j
1st. inasmuch as she Is "not toil
bright and good for human naj
ture'a daily food."
But th perfect woman of the artlsfl
is sometimes a very Impossible creaJ
ture, and, to ordinary eyes at lemtl
very far removed from perreciion, en
ther in fac or form. .
It has been said, however, that event
nalnter observes a beautiful womail
special spiritual lens of hiH
owa and, it is doubtless "true that lij
the majority of cases the artist s iaeai
is evolved from his partiality lor on
nartlcular woman.
From th artlstlo point of view, thr
perfect type has varied in all ages, ami
. bnnw hnw verv afferent are thfl
ideal and therefore presumably "PrJ
feet women" portrayed oy m-im
our own day; from the models of Burnej
Jones to the -uioson gin- mo
wIa '...nr..
PerfecUon and prettiness, it is said I
rarely go together. Sir Edward Poynterl
- n.niir artists. enJoyl
th. ntinctlon of being th onbl
n.i.t.r Af raaiiv nerfect women Dore H
painting, by the way. of Pal.
t.. . miHllral man once told thl
writer, was the best painting of ail
anatomically peneci woman n
Th following, however, are the meast
- urementa usually eonsiaerea or
es those of a perfect woman:
Ths Egyptians took th middle fingei
h. atandard of measurement, thU
being reckoned as about one-nlneteentll
of tn neignc . it
According to th "square of th anj
dents the span or in arms snoun
equal that of the height from mlddl
finger to middle finger, and this li
hnut th accented standard today.
If we take the Greek measurementl
th nerfecfJ woman snouia ds eigni
tieade hrh. and she should not have toil
small a waist Th elbows shoulil
reach the hips, th hand should be th
length of the face, the arms when outj
stretcnd snouia o in same as n
heiaht of the body. Narrow shoulderH
nd wide hlns were th Orek ideas ol
feminine beauty, but th modern wol
man has diverted her shoulders ami
chest to the benent or ner neaitn.
The head Is aenarally reckoned in thn
old Greek way as about one-eighth oi
the height, dui mis oniy applies to
nennla. The following croDortlons.X
ever, are given by a German sJsTntlstl
who has made a study of waflSWTs beau J
ty of all nations, and theseu7frer sllghtl
ly from the ureeK stanaara:
"Th heicht should be seven and
- half times the lensrth of the head, ten
times the length of th fac. nine timeH
the lene-th of the band, ana tne leg rout
times the lenarth of th head. The
shoulders should be two heads wldej
and, when standing erect, perfectly!
formed legs should touch at the kneenj
In addition to these we have the M
lowing measurements, which artisii
rnnerallv reoornlce ss a standard on
beauty:. The stretch of the thumb anl
middle finger should measure the lengtli
of th face:' the thumbs and samrl
fingers should encircle the neok, wnii'f
the thumb and middle finger should JuBtl
go rouna tne wrist. i
The arm. hanaing down should resell
exactly half way down the side, ami
the foot, which should bs well arched I
should be about six and one-third timet!
that of the height. . I
Such are the measurements and Pro-I
portions, but ther ar other polntfl
which go to make up feminine perreo
tion. Ths hair should he Ions and luxl
urlant and more or less glossy, thougll
wavy hair has Its admirers. The eyeff
should be full, large, clear, and well sea
in the tieaa ana or good color. :
The eyelashes should be long and thf
Drows wen markea. xn moutn snouni
be well shaped, neither too large noil
too small, the lips red snd neither toil
full nor too thin. Shapeliness of body!
rounded limbs and wi -1-f ormed hands
are also necessary factors in in sunt
Of reminine perfection.
HOW TO SEE GHOSTS-Dn Ber-
n?r i W lves Interesting Explanation
of Telepathy: Art of Discovering Specters
D
. R. BERNARD HOLLANDER is the
: latest man of science to attempt
to . explain .:. "telepathy" and
"ghoeu," and jyery interesting ex-
t planatione they were, too, which
he gave in an address on "Psychical
li- eart&" to th Lyceum club, says th
Lonjon Leader. v' ' ' ' v;
lr. Ilollaoder began by remarking that
at ow-fime It reflected no credit on
jiioa vt science to coucern WJtf wUA
Psychical Investigations, but owing to
the conversion of some men of sclentlflo
emlnence. like Sir Oliver Lodge, Dr.
Alfred Russnll Wallace, and others,
psychical research had become 1 ashion-
Three Groups of-Phenomena, l f
Dr. Hollander divided psychical phe
noran tnto three groups, namely;
Mesmerism; hypnotism and suggest
f ; . J ' i :
I. Thought transference and telepa
thy. - S- Visions, spectres and ghosts.
The first group now belonged to the
firactlce of medical men, and should no
onger be classed among the occult
Thexe could be no doubt that certain
persons were so organized as to make
natural sensitives.
"Now supposing," proceeded- the
speaker, "two sensitives to be closely
related or drawn together by a bond
of sympathy; and supposing, them to
be in different parts of the world, and
the llf of one to be in danger. - The
first thought he will project Into space
and thought is a form of energy le
for Mis relative or friend. 'v
If that friend 1s actively engaged at
the -time themessage may be lost; but
if he happens to be in a passive state
thinking of nothing in particular his
fersiA uU ceeelye gone Impression, cleat
.fcia'.'-;' ';i?:,iS-'
or confused, which will rafcke him think brain fores wai electrical was stlU an will appear rea) to him, and the vision Duke of oxburghe end heir to th
of the absentee ana renaer him anxious, opw question, but w knew that differ
as if something had gone wrong..., . ,ent persons were differently endowed
influence some men ' Dossessed ' ovsr
others which made them natural leaders.
An Image on the Brain.' - .
"By means of this' wireless telegra
phy an image Is produced on.th brain Vision of Ghost the Result.
wnicn is projected outwaras, causing
ghost will b tn result. ,. -Tm
will also eknlatn why daring
nr naranna -wrm rs niTinrHiiLiv ifnnnwfin ' - ' ' -r ... i
.Wit. and could thus account for th .nSf. :.TetS.W:WOSo22
pistols do not see the 'ghost' so long
as tney are run or coursg ana wiae
awake; for their brain is still too active
to receive tn image. , - i - f
"It Is when they get trred.. and ar
Mr. !- .i..j J; -n . at ine ooint oi laiuns aaieep, ui in
body, and v.n : th. actual
of 'his dangerous position ma be repro- - ,1 ,., f , . . , . ' .
duod. .This s.ms to be the .simplest .. L7iZZ t iT-ti u.Z
iMth . M .uh such a rorce that it will cllhg to
Z? roomer place la which , he lost hi. .
ufal phenomena" - A - r . ; lifa ; If, then, some person of a Sensi-
' Princess 'for Bridesmaid. . '
From the Ohio State : Journal. ;i
A toplo of conversation how in Eng-
Wifh regard to ghosts. Dr. Hollander's tlv nature, and not. preoccupied, pass llsh drawing; rooms is the inyatlon ex-
explanation was
Our brain and n
warn stardhouaes of nercv. whfek
jrere UU unable $ detlae, "if JVnetliM some piore Ism defiaed Image whlcJi AUstU lnuwhXt, a brotlur. t the
tended - to -Princess Patricia of Con
as to produce 'alng. oi miss Anna Breese and Lord
'?.L!L t?Jr v!. through that : roomf his .brainj may "re-
.e.' of inergy," whisk T wi lve such a sUmulue
ble M define, f$vaetbec ome more at leu Aefio
; Mis Rreeea has a number of kins
folk In - Cnlumbiia. Her mother. Mrs
Higgtns (Mary parsons), Is a sister otf
uustavue Hwan Parsons oi asi j-owi
street. .
It Is said that In all th annals o
English- historv ther Is no instance o
a Princess of the blood royal acting aa
a nriaesmaia to a daughter or a com
moner. - However this ms4Vbe., Jt
asserted that Princess Patrlcnws. mucl
delighted at th possibility, aiitfocles
roval etiauette intervenes and
must not she will b charmed
in th
Princess
holding
sd hannv as when she is doing some
thing which Other princesses -have nol
done, so there is every reason to ex
pect she will us sll her persuaslori
w carrx put uus uaiuu iaea
not she will b charmed tdw,
capacity for her very dear friend
as "Pat" has a great capacity foi
g hr own. it is said, is nevei