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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (May 5, 1907)
THE OREGON : SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING MAY 8. 1SS7. . . . WPO. (TrtCD;IliW f I Women and The Modes for the Races as Emphasized . 1 ' " in the New Costumes of Alice Roosevelt Longworth V s f.v. r-1,! . & aw . 19 'As 01 and , . .: ..-.,1. "V-- .-..- - - ',. , Mrs. Perry Belmont f WART jreopls ara fact retting out - or aoor society, la puttlnf on lta new prlnij frocks. Tbe blue . t world of faahloa la OBtfflnf freah ., '" JT) rather than tbo odor of bot- ' The winter haji been Ion a and trrlnc. . Kch day haa bees ao, m crowded with . one's social enraf amenta, One is so bored, , so . fatlfued In New York with . the . wearisome routine of It oil. . Oh. how good and gUd it la to bo reaily outdoors once mora. r . , Brisk morning walk down fifth ave nue c a more and more the ouatom growafor one fiada that thla consti tutional brlnga becoming Cuah to ' one'a cheek and a brightness to oae'a - eyes ' which oven Marie's clever ' fin gers cannot accomplish so satisfactorily rides In the park, days spent at one's farorite country club, a round or two at golf one beglne to feel the real joy of llvfng.' And the coaching aeason Is near at hand. And before long we shall be whlscing off la our motor cars for i a run oown to too races. But although It will bo yet a little while before the fascinating sport of horse-racing cornea to New Tort fash - lonable New York can la the meantime go to It, Some of tie hare not thought the pilgrimage to see the racing at Ben nlngs too long a one. The other day I noticed a great many, familiar faces . on the lawn there so many. Indeed, of our own "four hundred" that It Was ' hard to believe that one was In the capital and not In the metropolis. , Speaking of races, of course, reminds . us of frocks, for after all at the race . meet, as at the horse show, the gown Is pretty much the thing! We speak of the "Jockey's silk." but the silk of one's : jgown la the matter of real Importance. There were plenty of smart and suit able gowns at Bennings, principally of cloth, for the season Is a tardy one and many dainty confections destined for the race meet are still hidden In their tissue paper wrappings. ; ; ,. AH shades of tan were much In evl- iflence and the new tapestry blue a ' luscious soft shade the exact color of . the blue found In the old Gobelin tapes tries; brown - waa there, too, ' and I caught - an approaching - glimpse of a j sown of Alice blue. It was tries and . youthful looking and who should be, ' wearing It but Princess Alice herself 1 - It Is a responsibility, aa wall as an . - nonor, to do maae a gocmotnor to color, and this; responsibility lira. Nlch . olas lioagworth quite appreciates. 66 oho remains true to her chosen color. Not only does she appear wearing whole ' oostumea of It, hut wo aee a touch of It on her hat as she starts a morning's hopping,or on the collar and lapels of Her motoring coat as one liasces by U her automobile. . . - Thla particular blue gown was of the eoat and skirt variety, and was of voile, -. 'which Is thla year used Quite as much . ; aa over, -- ; " ; The coat was cut on an Eton model . It had a fascinating little dip rn front and -was sloped up slightly at the sides, and was fairly short In the back, permitting a glimpse or the belt. The tubular braid with , which It was trimmed was ozactly the same shade' as the voile. v ao the only relief was In the touches of white on belt, collar and sleeve, and la , the white carved pearl betton. The . Jbrald. formed- loops .dn.wn.th8. front of the jacket, each loop neing caught with a Dutton. An ornament maae or braid : was In each lower corner of the front of the coat, from which a double row of braid ran around and outlined the back of the Jacket A narrow plait extending from the shoulder to the edge of the Jacket in front gave that slender ness of line, In which all women de . light ' The sleeve, ' which came only to the elbow, was slashed up the outer aide i .ywr, ArAIlct Blntt Ooint i of " tht Coat, aad Ckirt DastgXWorn by lira." Alio Eooaovalt Long ortfe at th Eacaa, ., ' .... ' . , B-jTba Front and Back of Mri. Perrr Bel mont'n B 1 a e k Broadcloth Oown, Worn with a Waist of Irlah Lac. t'' nested In the waist .A chemisette of By Mrs. John A. Logan. (Oopyright, 180T, by AmarieaB-Joenial-BxaoiiMv) KUJf udouk wiuiara I. Thorn aa of the Chicago university haa writ ten what he calls a book on the above subject which for mean ingless platitudes, tnooherenoy and disgusting suggestions - surpasses anything that has ever been pannv 'x with unblushing freedom. ' If th excerpts which Z have read are la any aense oorreot, I am amased that tucked mousaelln. and lac. with JiJS back collar ot white, edged with a tiny K??1 ut r,nuch piping of pale Wu and whlto, I blush to confess that I have needed ontraat Tha aleevea haa a Mi reread every word that has appeared turned back cuff of white, piped like the of thlai pubUcaUom and I have failed' collar. Below, th waff waa a otraigbt ntterty to axtraot a alagle pure thought band of lace, s Braaa buttons 4oujoura tbt proves anythln touching women. HS boutoaa. you ee faataned the aol- Blm -ln- tt have been whMi. Jars and ouffa Aa ornament ruy oooupled with the animal that la In man- ' oontrlved of tafrete aUk. from which Ia vH Mya a poor oomollment t hla mother and Ale wife. If he haa one. If there la any meaning la what he says ta regard te tha morality and mod- oaty of women. -'. , .'': ,-'t -:: "Morality la preeminently aa adult hung -two end, waa plaoed Just below the collar ta front. Tha Uttl bows on th oollar were also of taffeta. - Th wide alrdl waa of valltec r ' I w Mlam Cllaabeth Wtnthrop Ste- iZXt tK- n.a- th. avanua ale aysUm and men are lnt.lll ' .0prln' bi1l' .!.Ii"t goat enough to rooognh that neltha: th other day ta ouoh a ohannlng hat that ( think i mm ten yoa aoout . It seemed to apeak of spring flowers and youth and auaahlne a eymphony of tender greea and too pink. . It was th Inevitable maahrooea ahap. and Miss goat enough to rooognhw that neither women aor eblldroa have passed through thla school. It la oa tale aocount that. while aaaa la merallea to woman .from th standpoint of paraonal behavior, he exempts her from anything Ilk con- It aa wall Kaak Aa kr head. Th brim, had taffeta OJt shot " U difficult to understand: what he ta frtoa and pal pink drawn around aa by such a strtn It. Tha orowsi was a fluff of areea I graons seatanota tnrio. ens aoroaa It was thrown a cur-1 Th concise definition of morality land Of pink rosea. A curled aigrette I Webster la "th practice of duty; obo- sprang from th left Side, Inside the I dene t in moral uw vtrtue; good- lnoon- In brim soft folds f toll snad a h coming setting for the, youthful fao. JVS. L.y?. a.s.a.a x 1 'A. "SAC . S r,- - . YnX-'.'AX". 3 1 '.'j.msV i V.V."i m .OSTAX.'.itA mi V n E3 f 0 Tha Very Smart-' Sid Plaited Skirt and Waist Effect 0 harming Mushroom Shap ed Hat Adorned with Taffeta Bak of Green - and Rom Pink, Carl od Aigrette and Pink B o a e t. Worm by Miss Elizabeth Win throp 8terena. 0 mm mm 0 m V and was' bordered with band's of whr silk, it was caught across the loops of braio. saatoaod wiu Duitonj corresponu Ins to tho front of the Jacket The oollar was rather a unique touch, for while th front was mad of voile, the back was of White silk. Praise be to AUah, that American women stick to tnoir independence ana refuse to submit to. the oar and bur den of trailing skirts I French dress makers may praise lta graee and subtle ty, th joy of long and flowing lines; but Vadant American puts her foot down and says a most mphatls "Nor And eh means It So, on the street and for all except th most formal occa sions th trim ankle-length skirt Is still "the thing." Mrs. Longworth's skirt waa well . off the ground and al lowed a glimpse of Alice blue allk-cov-ered ' Instep and patent leather pump, which was very fetching. . "A 'harrow front gore had th two-sl je" front gores laid onto It with a vortical plait These plaits" or tucks widened gradually from th waist band to about 10 Inches -from th . bottom of the skirt There they terminated under an ornament made of three loops of braid fastened with a button, t The plait were formed with on row of stitching, and th deep hem at the bottom of the skirt was also machine-stitched. . The aid gores and th back met with plaits In th same way. and they also ended under a braid ornament Just above the- gore each bom was ornamented with . a shaped pise of material narrowly edged with braid. Above this was a row of braid which ended In - the ornaments men tioned, a-::; y-r .(-.' ' with this gown Mrs. Longworth wore one of the flat black hats sha so much affects. ' It was set rather far back on her head and emphasised tha new tilt Of course you have noticed th new tilt -the general effect of sliding off back wards, which seems to have suddenly attacked coiffure and bat No longer does tho pompadour ( rife 1 ' mm "V Jauntily from tho feminine brow. To be truly up to date the hair must be caught sofUy backward to th crown of th head, there to nestle In cuffs and rolla. from which th pendant curls bob In a way quit fascinating enough to capti vate any mere man. . Hats are set at th same alarming angle even th bat trimmings are retiring Into the back ground. But be not alarmed t This does sot mean that th wearers are go ing to Imitate th ,. shy and . shrinking violet Fashion Is only less contradic tory than lovely woman herself. A new. skirt has Just made Its appear ancean audacious billowy skirt which frou-frous and flutes In a way quite fas cinating, it had come, and come to stay, for on the lawn: at Bennings It was worn by no less fashionable a person tnan jars, erry Beimont Of course, no race meet would bo quit complete without this Interesting woman, who Is equally at home In Washington and .new xonc , .. .,. -.,, Mrs. Perry Belmont shares with "her husband a genuine love of racing as a sport, and la often seen near the pad dock caressing the soft" nos or some victorious thoroughbred. She looked partlcmarly well on this occasion' In a costume of her favorite black and white, in adaptation of tbe suspender dross and striking In Its chic simplicity, , mac nroaacioth was used for the skirt and; for the "wide wrinkled belt which fastened, in two points tn the back. Two three-Inch straps, also of broadcloth, ran from the belt In front up to tbe shoulders. Just over th turn I f th shoulder end bore Is a touch whleh give distinction and which you should Jot down la your notebook th two straps became one. It really gave the effect of their being dut In that way, but on looking -more olosely I found that th two straps were Just softly crushed together. . . , - v. r : Irish lae 1 still quite the laoa. It haa an air of richness and luxury about It which appeals to fashionable women. . Mrs. Belmont's waist waa of this lao. , untrlmmed, except for piles ruffle of chiffon finishing th elbow sleeve and four stunning oval, buttona of out Jet down the front of the waist For this year what is a. gown Without buttons? It reminds tn of th old gams of "But ton, button. Who's got th battonf Of; course, tho answer is "Evary anr But I am, sure you are anxious to hear about tho skirt Mk many things -which at first glano sees Impossibly complicated i It was. to reality. , quite j simple. Shall I let yoa Into th secret T , Th clever dressmaker had simply cut : alternate gores on th straight' and on th bias of th-cloth. Th bias gores were put on to look like box plaits, and they hung with a splendid swing Whleh 1 at once gave character to th skirt- . There was a little neokUe or biacK-tar-feta as a finish to th collar, and with this costume Mrs. Belmont ; wor long ;: auedo arloves. ' Mrs. Patrick Calhoun's gown of aar bluo veiling quit suited her blond color ing. It waa a simple little frock of., walking length., The skirt was sid plaited, an arrangement of plaits r- mm A aeaa. The gender of th word I not given, and on wonders where Professor Thomas got his authority to denominate It masculine. Morality la a virtus squal ly admirable la men and woman, and not, as 'Professor Thomas would have one think, not expected la womea and children, and he should have added idiots, as men of his stamp are wont to do la classifying Irresponsible ta man beings. . V It Is little wonder that there Is so much complaint of demoralisation of ' rounsr people and th assertion that a majority of them hav false. Ideaa of life and their duties, when books of the character ot Professor Thomas's "The Adventitious Character of Woman. and Mrs. Parson's "Trial Divorce" theories are allowed to be distributed broadcast, both of which havs wrought Incalculable , wrong to old and young. Professor Thomas - haa . written so plainly -upon tha most sacred relations of life as to excite th Indignation of every pure-minded person, He discusses topics that 'Should never o mentionea la print and makes suggestions that ars absolutely revolting to on witn a par ticle of refinement; and yet, unfortu nately, he Is a professional educator. It sms high time that som on was appointed to censor literary productions which omanant from universities, so . that th public might know th influ ence under which th charaet.rs of stu dent ar balag formad. BARBER'S OWN HAIRCUT He May Got It la His Own Shop or Ha May Go to Another. , The customer sitting la the chair, with th barber trimming his locks, wondered what th barber did when ha wantsd a hair out -1 do lust what ro do." said th bar ber: 1 so te a barber shop and get it eat. - V -Bom barber do that, and then soms set their hair cut by a fellow bar her in th hop In which they work. Getting It out by another barber In your own shop might seem the most natural thing to do, and then you cut the other , follows hair In return when it needs cutting; but that Isn't the most com fortable way, and It Isn't the best way for th shop. '. . .-. "You see. It take two men off th chairs, to bgln with, th man who Is getting hla hair cut and th man who Is cutting It, and that's bad, because you don't know how many customers may corns In; . and If customers do come In -that may make It uncomfortable for the barber In the chair. One when I was getting my hair cut ta my own shop customers flocked in whoa tho work on my head waa about half done, and of course I had to get taoav on them: and tber kept coming steadily from that on, and so I stood and worked all day with my own hair trimmed oa on sid and not on in other. . v : : "A man can shave himself and a man can trim hla own beard If he wanta to, though no man oaa begin to do that as well ss a barber can "do It for him, but no man can cut his wa hair, and so we all have to set oar aair cut ana w look well a man ought to get his hair and beard trimmed vry two weeks; and .v.rv two weeks regularly l go out to another shop and get my nair out and get fixed up, and I go always to th saan shop. - .fr "You've been comma- nor ana ruMw la my ebalr for four years. Iu been : going to th shop I go to and getting y hair cut by the aame Darner ior ; rear. Once every two weeks x g around there and get Bay hair out and a have, and usually a shampoo. Ton aoa. ran atandlna her ail a ay and day after day shaving other people and cutting their hair, and if a son of a ehang and a relief and a comfort garally to sit down 1n a chair once in a while and got somebody to do this work for me. and I so about this In the most comfortable way) every two weeks when X get my hair out I go to a shop, where I get my work don and sit down la th chair of my regular barber as a sustomw." a -'" , Individual Responsibility tooprnrht T :s , Xi Ju By Mrs. John A. tVoiran. ; ! (Ooprrlirht, 1907. bj Amcrican-Journal-Bxamhier) question or individual respon sibility has Utterly occupied the attention of thinkers, teachers, Jurists and preachers, and It la to os nopea that there may be a Universal 'awakening , on this staple proposition. ; , j W hav drifted too far Into a feeling that society; legislative bodies, corpora tions, association and those la author ity, are responsible for existing' condi tions, for the welfare of th church, the ut. and nation, , without stopping to Inquire whether or not we have as in Civlduala performed our duties - faith fully. - : ,K v.-- v i . - .-i -. -. Vpon every. human botng rests a dt - root obligation and accountability for IL. tai.nt he haa. - Every one has one cr more according to whu God has Individuals forget that they ar an Integral .part of society, church, com munlty, state and country.: And yet th days go by without their feeling twinges of conscience oecause of their Indifference to their moral responsibility in numaa anrairs. ir approached in th interest of charity they ars ready with excuses for their lack of generosity. If requested to aid in the preservation of law and order they insist upon their exemption from duty- because they are not in omciai position ori-ar. -unacquainted with the raodua operandi of legal matters. ' .-.:.r, v;' If some knottytrdestlon affecting so ciety comes up they dodge behind some leader and pUr fast and loose .shirking their duty and leaving the few to strug gle for the supremacy of right and the condemnation of the wrong. Jf trouble : arises in tbe church- they, are ready to : i accuse th congregation, of aejleot and Indifference, "invariably failing to include tnemseives in me category in which mey pmoe uunra. a uiu.uu. uuun maKeS its p- peartuiva nt o. vunununiiy. a few brav apirlta will combat it with unflagging vigilano. while th many will shrink from actual participation in lta n. pressiuiv wu me victory has been won by th minpiity the maioritv win join in in e genera rejoicing and fellcl tatlon over Its sradlcatioa Persons Of vicious cbaracter'ni sometimes dare to intrude themseWe imon society, and It Is astonishina witness th cowardlc of th many who seem too timid to ao ineir part toward the expulsion of dangerous spirits, leaving. the few to accomplish th d- rlred step. . . '"'";.;.. When th country 1 in danser from forelirn or domestic, foes it Is th few who spring to the rescu and the host lag behind until victory Is vouchsafed to the patriotic ' . -. .: . The most appaiiias smnung of re- TOonsibllity ' follows , great disaster that are the result of criminal careless ness. Incompetent agents of corpora Uon ar eotruU4 with Important u-i ties that should not be given into the hands of any bat Intelligent and well trained man ot absolutely correct habits, Othqr reliable and experienced agent are forced to remain on duty for , many hours that tired nature aires out and, caUstropnes ensue. Is there not gross disregard of In dividual responsibility somewhere, . of incompetency and overtaxed numan na ture would have no place in th service Of great corporation. It roar be asked, what can one per son accomplish with th multitude! If everytmol would stand firmly on th principle of Individual responsibility th multitude would be on th slds of right and accidents would be fewer and there would be an equalization of tho obliga tions - of ' mankind. Wo oa can can cel th personal accountability of an other. Each must render an aocount la that , day when th secrets of all hearts are laid bar. -s, . .i .A All trackmen between' the lakes snd Vancouver oa the Canadian Pacific rail way have received aa advance of per peat la waes. ITHE NATIONAL TAILOR Also Dressmaker Also Haber dAsher---2Cew;York All Three. . The lnUrtlng fact ha been brought to light that th most important Indus try la th out of Nw York ta ths making Of women's clothes. Until re cently th making of men's clothe had the leading position, . but drsssmaklng baa movd to tn top. ;s. - -..i:-,-,..ir Tho output of these , two industries during the past year ' was valued at 1140,000,000. whleh I within I28.000.00I of th total value of all th. produet of th steal works and rolling mills of Pennsylvania. : ?; Nearly 71.000 people live upon ! th making of women' clothes and 61,000 more ar engaged In making clothes for men. v Out of every too oeoDle was work ta th industrial pursuits of New York stats ar engaged in maklnc clothe for men and women.. Nearly 4.vv,rv -w. p.ia qui u tuese wora are la on ' year. --: '- - '.- fin X.ork la the aatlona4 flrsaakrAl tailor and haberdasher. Oat of every 1100 worth of clothing made for women In One year this state produced 170 worth. In collars and cuffs for tna New York manufactured nearly IT per oent of th entire output of th nation. "It may be noted," says th World's Work, "that th value of men's furnish ings has fallen behind, as compared with 1900. It leads to a suspicion that mere man. If married, Is carrying a burden that grow heavier year by year. Far b it from as to hint that any man goes ftollarles or cufflee because his wife but why pursue this painful study or statistics lartnerr' , Burled In Evening Dress, . . ' , The will of th lat Sir James Col- quheun, Bart, or TUias, which has been registered - la Edinburgh, directed that hi body should be dressed for burial la full evening oostuma, and laid tn a plain oak coffin, ao that those who cared for him during his life might see him for the last tint. H. bequeathed the fam ily portraits to hi successor, while th residue of his property will go to his Widow. aa4 tlSS. taea to hla aitoutarsk J Phoiiograph Scares Thieves. Tha wav of crime which ha been " passing; over Paris lately and which the pollcs seem quit powerless to prevent - r has caused the cltieens to adopt various devices to protect their homes from In vasion by ths Apaches. Pogs having i provn tttrly Useless. mr than on family has sought protection by placing a stand with a parrot or cockatoo pos-, sesslng a qpMlaUy loud squawk Just lnsld their flats oJmost veryWne in Paris .live ta a flat , 7nt ''An lectiioal engineer, however, has v found A phonograph tha best possible -watchman. He locate it with the meg aphone attachment dlreoted to th door and he has wired th hall and arranged batteries so that the moment th door Is opened three laches th phonograph gets Ot aCtlOT, "1 ;.: -.) It begins to beMow Polle!. HIpl ' Murderl Thlvr and It keeps it no un- -til he sots out ot td and turns oft th currant - - ' -irr-v' ,t .-ifi Hi flat Is wH furnished with plat and Other valuables and several at tempts hav been saad to roh it Ptiit via thieveo tiava yet withstood th phono- quickly that they ar Mw aaUgh .5? f trrYl,,U "tere who went on strlk at Hardwlck. Vermont on March l.hav returned to work. Both sides bave signed an aiimeaMo oonUnua Xom Xnma sata -v