c.izccn :j;;day jcu::nal rc:iTLAr;a Sunday r.:oror;a r.iAY r, j;c7
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by virtu of th fact that thousand of ducky person
under whit master are raising those groat bird of
adornment eft th field of Africa, or pursuing th
wild bird on th plain, tt'a on of the bit Industrie
of tW country, and all founded on tba flimsy, baubl of
;' fashion. V -J1: ''"a. v: -.V 'ir? ''" ':-'-XiV-'
Not only that but ther ti now tender war e In
dutry la th southwestern, part of th United State,
which may la ttma almot upered tha African
trlch traffla. It la avldeat that tha ostrich la not llkal
to ba aoon givea Ha deathblow by tha dictator at.
woman' fashions, for clear-headed business men bar
undertaken to rata ostriches In America to provide for '
such demand for a number of year.
Nor must on forget the pla which fastens the worn
an' hat to her hair. Frequently It U made of tha eheU
that coven the tortots which ha Its noma lit African
river, la Madagascar or a Asia. -
So, too, with the halrcornbs-they x usually mad
of tha rarest hell, which great horde of worker keep
. i
7 I J
' Bckijif Cottoning Joatfjen
Tit EN you bedeck yourself in your
' ; finest dress and orngmenls, if you
I ' b a woman; or when you pay
for sq rigxinz out your wfe; if you be a hus
band, do you ever ttop to think of what it has
cost in. labor to make up that costume, hox
many persons in various parts cf. the xoorld ' ;
liave been1 employed' on it apart fromthe - f ;,
dressmaker and the merchant? . , -
' it's astounding, when ydu tome to think ;::;ty-r-.i.
of it. 1 To get, furs for madame, what hordes - I
are Iwbrhing all. their lives in Russia, Siberiat :i
f ' - k..
' I 7.A7SMlthr:l 1 1 ! ' .'Or TC
Win -
constantly busy obtaining. ---r
Few of the laceethat you oa milady eoatuma
were made In the United States, although probably noma
of them that bear foreign- marks were really made la
New mEngrland mills. .The most expensive points how
ever, come from France, England and Arabia; and there
is ins lace 01 Belgium, Venice ana, covering, rmrnaps.
"British Columbia and on the Pacific. To
make her hat attractive, ostrich farms are
maintained in far-away Africa Asia, Oceania
and the JsleS Of the South bea furnish iff madame ahouldera, the large flowered lac of Ireli
pearls ana other ornaments. ( ,
"laborers in gold mines all over the world ' l f V
nre divrin out of the ground veiiow nuggets . f -ll : I : 11
i. . to make her tings; her cnains ana iocrcis ana
rrts: Slaves in. th4 dartyess, of: subter. t f .
" ranean dungeons of South Africa and Brazil, S IEDED by snow-capped, mountain that
: beautiful diamonds on hsr fingers and n her V- "Valley of th Many Colored Grasses,"
ears'., " " ' '" " " ' 1 "' ' , threaded by limpid streama and colorful with "
The laces and silks and cottons how sweeping fields of tones and at mi-tonea of green, n ,
All of which aerv to enhance, but not hide, robes of
alllc velvet or wool material from China, Thibet, Arabia,
Algeria or the Southern States of America. 1 .
Think of th thousands of negroes tolling day In
and day ut In these Southern fields picking th fluffy
vVitt kit, nt mttnn t hiraMt tiitiR! ftt the other ten
f thousands In the mills of this and other countries who
and. spin and weav It, and. it you hav plenty of time.
JiriliTatinn t
2 Jfrmf: fnr- .
rntimr Ita nroares throagh th wholesale houses, the
retail stores. - th dressmaking shop - until It fluaCr
reaches the wearer It waa Intended for from the be
ginning. , i '
Again th fln Hnem that form th more Intimate
part of th eoeturo hav been grown originally la
any one of a number of land. r k . . - i
And the whalebone which, perchance, gives plasticity
to her orset what a wealth of romance, u a coma o
1 told, ha hovered about th harvesting of It, .
' What battle with leviathans on the mighty deep,
' What feats of half-clvUUed people, what torie or
' commerce could be told of this little Iteoa alone for yoa
aaustn't think that oil 1 th only thing derived front
whale. ' ' t . -
What of th boot Of kid, of deerskin or of chamois
that encloses woman' dainty foot? Mea dally risk their
Uvea in mountain pathway, tracklee forests, along
African rivers, wher th hunt of th dangerous croco
dile never eeasea, for erooodU leather la now largely In
demand. - , .
.1 thl allt i By o mean. Hundred of other article
from many land Just a remote moat also contribute :
their ahar toward enhancing woman' beauty. When
: th gown Is adjusted and th hat got on straight,
then com other articles of the tollett. "
Behold th rare pearl of th East a Jewels of prloe
Is value on head, seek or arm. Many com from th
. bottom of ehark-heunted fa.
With them may b th diamond dug with Incredible
toll from th mines of South Africa or Braxll. Here
ar sapphires and ruble torn from their aeeret biding
place In India. And th precious gold In which they
are et come from far Australia. California, th Klon
dike. Siberia there I hardly any part of th whole world -Where
It 1 not being dug, . . . j , . k.
What 1 lacking In th toilette what final touch?
Perfume. .A sprinkl of It on rb or handkerchief
must not be forgotten. '
There are violet, tSao, clover, rose, many other.
How most of them ar distilled from the flowers who'
. names they bear immediately tuggeaui Itself to any ot ,
w But' there are other stranger waya of getting it
' For instance.-' the tiew mown hay" which oft 'l
delights the nostrils Was, as like as hot derived, n: ':
front hay, but from coal tar, that by-product of ga
i ' which was ohce thrown away, but now t used in C(
making of scores of articles.
Then there! Is that dear nttl animal, th mux'
deer, r musk rat, which, propagating a fast as he e
on African fields. Is yef unable to entirely satisfy t!
demand for his refreshing essence which fashion in t .
'- part of the civilized world craves. . '
. But. there are other things to be thought ot wh-
the frock and hat are arranged. There are the out
wrepa The seaUklns, for instance how ar they pt.i
- cured T .'..
' One la minded of . the sea wolf and th Alaskan se.1
industry, th"pathetlc story of how vry year ' thou
and upon thousands of helpless seals are slaughter? !
With club In the hands of men a the animal lie e 4
i , th beach after the tide haa gon out
Mot only are th parent seals killed, but poor se
pups by th thousand are left there to die. So scar
daloUs ha Oils traffic become ' that the , President cl
: the United. States haa raised hi voice against It
Ad there. Is the fur trade of Siberia and Brlt'.i 'J
Columblfc.- It Is in Itself one of the commercial ro
mane of th age. la America there la associated WU3
It the tvry.of the oldcet trust on the continent, tij
Hudson Bay Company, which alt th year round coca
v matfas the service of thoUsahda of Indian and Canadians
i, Frenchmen la th great northern wilds a yet tmopene S
to civilisation. t n , .
" Thus, to clothe milady, th whole world must ccn
- atantly .bend lb It effort. ' t .
rrATPTinvriAPAnTcrc wr Tci imrt?ta
-V7 . v , VaX j. v
tjrstralm Tazues Wool f
Jojt Jtejr,J2en.eXfi'
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many people are spinning in China, knitting in - presents a scene ox penecs cm an
Ireland, working in i th'e fields of the Southern it Becms to hover some'.pirit' of tran- :
"States to provide them f .... ' qbillity the sky is transparently blue, the air rare-,
r r-eJrttjilf finti'ihould ask. What D arts of-f&ed And clear, the sun intensely, purely golden. The ? 1
AW.W iri Wort ''uWfisarv fd the toilet of valley has a soulthe memory of sainta who walked
' milady t-the answer would be. easy-- All. : .Q Bpiritual Y&T&dise, of poets who sang here, of
- ; : " 1 ' .' " '. i naintArs whn dinnrd their brushes in nature's tints.
, , 1 I . ' ; '
I
T IS aasv to lecture the modern woman a a queen
. seated oh a regal thronernoiaing a wano woitn
reaches to every corner ot the known world, and
i..n.nniy.aiiv tannin, ttnw here, now there, her
millions upon millions of Slaves lest they lag In th
work of bringing tribute of raiment to her. ' i
v : T She's art exacting, monarch, but willing to pay well
for her service. . .
When ' milady er her husnand, or papa, which all
amounts to the same thing-pays for her Easter jr
fall hat the milliner's price may seem more reasonable
: If ttu genesis of the headgiar be coneidered. , ,
iVlhe day of birds on bat is on .he wane, and yet
the business of securing them continue to be an ex
r " tensive industry in many parts of the world, especially
in Asia, Oceania and the South Sea Islands. v
' J?EAf HERED BEAUTIES FROM AFAR "
;,-ii', Bird of splendid plumage conceal themselves far
v fn the depths of the silent forests,, in trees where the
' foliage la so dense tha sunshine seldom strikes the
trunks. , .
There they are Sought by savage hunter Who know
nothing of mercy of th flnr sentiments, of civilisa
tion, and know only that the things are greatly de
sired and royally paid for by people of other lands.
These feathered beauties. Instead of being consigned
" to tomb in Nature's breast, sleep taet- long sleep on
- the hats of women In civilised countries.
And these biers of straw or fur or felt have, in turn,
also necessitated their quota of slavery.'
: i The rice straw, of which the best hats are made,
- comes from the Celestial Empire; the-Panama is woven
In South Amerimi the Lerhorn Is pleated in, Italy. la
Aneam, near fjiam, popular hats of straw are made,
Perhaps It la an omrich feather Instead of a bird that
: bedeck th hat &d If so. it haa been placed there only
This is tfmbria. one spot in Italy left tinvisited
by the majority of tourists. ' Secluded in northern
. Italy, it is pought by few savfe the aesthetic paint-
era of wealth and leisure and poets whose livelihood
1 does not depend on a daily grind. lovers of the
beautiful seek this earthly paradise and dream. , -
,-'"(51?
i J mm
ftKN-.;-. f.v 3eie
I
W Thmi art 4 holy poem, sweet Umbriaa plain,
.. . Forever sung to the angelic ear, ! .. -Thy
tender vines beneath thv hills auttere, v, .
Thy shining poppies kacl thy springing grain, V"
N THE exquisite landscape ot th old painter
Nlcoio da Foligno, Franceseo Meanzio and Tiberlo
d'Assisi one sees view ot the divlnest landscape
ever portrayed on feanvaa. It la Umbrlal "
. Ask any man who has traveled in all parts of th
1 world if he has been in Umbrla. and he will tell you
'It 1 an earthly paradise, th most beautiful spot on
earth.
Jfi the fourth oentory four pilgrim from Palestine,
: so runs a legend, went to , Pope 4beriu And asked
- him to direct them to a land where they might live
nprfect lives, a land Whose cure, natural beaut Would
bring Qod close to thlr souls, wher their plrlt could ters. noreracej neKwe-eaapeis. .
- HttJ;,, , J,.t It is unspoiled; the valley breathe the fragrance
rise in an exaltation of devotion in the most beauti- -ftf m Mwly earth; one seems to smell flower
ful tempi of woods and skies in th world. ; , blooming In th early day ot creation when all th
The good Pop told them to go to Umbrla, .There, air was pure,
sixteen centurie ago, those four the first of many "One leaves Rome," said a traveler recently, "with
saints who have trodden it lovely vales lived and ' a feeling of the oppressiveness of the city.1 It reek
did There in later centuries small monasteries arose, - with pagan sacrifices, ot the atrocities of th old em-
and there pious men, looking upon a perfect world Of
nature, pondered on th perfect spiritual life of the
aouL There St Francis ot Assist, In a little leper col
ony, washed their sores and nursed them, and there th
humble man, on La Yerna, saw the dlvln vision and
recelvedth tlgmatav v. ' " "
, ' There, on the' Appenlnes, in the great old caatl
lived the rosy, buoyant Santa Chlara, and there down
in the valley,' la the sixth century, St Benedict built a,
; Uttl chapaL v ' ; tt ,
- In Umbrla young Raphael first saw his angels,'
There painters, since then, have felt th ho hush that
evoke an inspiration.
Umbrla! It Is out of the way of ordinary tourist,
and. fortunately, haa esoaped desecration; traveler
hav not written their name on tha walls of It clols-
peror. It la a city of th past of dea4 things, of mem
ories rather than a future.
"Traveling northward, on eome to Umbrla Urn
i brla tretchinc below the plendld Appenlne. Umbrla
wher mllk-whlt oxen, uch a thos of which Virgil
1 and CUtumau ang, plow th fields; wher atr'jr-
old oair stand dank and ombr alon tho bas of, W -
mountain.-;- --''i "'M 7.
s - -Here, ais'perhap in no other part of i world, th ,
tree, th field, the flower run a gamut of olor, b j
Wlldering to th y. On eould hardly imagln o
many changing hade of ttw.::mp;iv':
"Perched on tlttl hUH on ee th town of .
rugl. Assist Spello. Spollto Montefaloo. uQn e
convent' - falling Into - decay, little Shrine., dilapi
dated and falling to roin. whr th"plou peasant
kneel Mday JhJr prayer. . , - t- " -
.ri . vou drive along, a pretty Usa, dusky skinned,
with Jet black, beady eye, Uahe her gase at you; a
child of nature, poor, ignorant happy v
"In Umbrla one learns tha noi i- nce'ls happiness.
Thar is no suggestion ot th ver of wealth or a de
sir for power among th aluipl men as they trudge
behind their oxen, or th women, whose ehlef prld
1 la th gay red bandana they wear on their heads. X '
Umbrla, not assailed by the humming ot trolley csu ,
on can rest and dream.
"Dreamt Ah, that oul of Umbria-th p!r!t c2
the saints Who lived and dled-filla one with feellnr
ot a higher purpose in life than the money-getting ti
great cltlea On feel he would be well content to Iftra
, a th brother who pray befor th great cross on C-i
. , mountain wher v the heavenly - vision appeared t J
: Francis. ; , '; .J, ;.-,'';, -! ',. -"
"From the Hotel Subaslo on can see, down in C1
, valley, the great Church ot St Mary ot the Angels. Be
neath It little and dilapidated, - tha chapel of tr.J
" Portuncula, built by th tour pilgrim In Palestine an I
"rebuilt by St Benedict Passing along th popular roal
on will com to the Site ot the Rlvo Torto there ar
two small chapel, th holy well and farmhouse.
"Her One WS the leper eolony, wher St Frano!j
,, won th favor of th Host High by ministering to th
roost lowly, most despised of sufferers. Going up Cl
'steep road of Monte, Subaslo, one will reach the moum
f tain retreat of Francis; on can view th earcerl when
he prayed and meditated.
A LAND OF ROMANCE
"It is a land of romance, of folklore and rellg!
piety. In Perugia, the queen city of Umbrla. Is t
cathedral of San Lorenso San Lorenso with , the t
main ot three popes in her tombs; San Lorenzo v.
" the betrothal ring of the Virgin Mary on her altar ,.
: In a silver casket fastened by fifteen locks, :
- sacred relio reposes on the altar. The keys are in
possession of fifteen distinguished Italians. (:,, .,
year they come to the church, the fifteen look ait;
. fastened, "the silver casket is opened and ti n i
' which tradition aaya Joseph gave to Mary I i .
to .the reverent view of 'hundreds of pcu, ii:i
- gather there; - -- ---
, "In Perugia women still weave their r'
-the spinning wheel. Wearers use th hap. i i
i aow their arain broadcast in the fluid. Ai, i i. i
been done lor centuries. .
-'Long before Rom was built Umbrla wi tn i
of on of the most artistic races or t-. .
' Etruscana. Umbria why, it Is a land ot i.
' Costons, at Chlust at Orvleto, et l iu. i ,
formidable walls and lmregnatd" .'.' i
three centuries old. -
i "Wanderlnsr through UmbrU ma l !
' the heavenly silence timt prvalisa n
;tO hover over vale n-n.l KUl; pv n t: ... .
, creep silently throu?n dim i
-perfumes of,the tlowets si-.l 1
on the qulot breezm.
"Only at mrtii; . i-1 r '
sound breks t'-- t , - .
bells." At thp t!:l.. - ...
a fiery mcloUyt 'i-a ,