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iihi i a i i mm tit fct i fc i i i i T-i ii i in .. i r rr -r- i i
-Br Dorothy Dale,
THZ " ceompany4iiK , llluatrattoni
how two zoellent dedsna (or
: . fovni of thin material, th tnor
elaborat of th two being prao
Ucai for any of tha orvandiea,
mulls or waah material, and alao for
any of the very thin alike, chiffon cloth
or rnch fabric. The aklrt modal 1 es
pecially graceful, with U little plaited
frills set on between panel of the ma
terial, outlined by atrip of lace.
The bodice of the model frock was
elaborately Inset with Insertion, about
(lace, the yoke of the gown belnc of
thin, yery fine Valenciennes, The aklrt
ruffle also showed Valenciennes lace
as a finish about the edge, - the Irh
lac also being used as pictured.
The second gown was a Uttl lea
elaborately - trimmed, but the - sketch
was drawn from one of the mot at
tractive gown aeen at a recent exhi
bition of frock designed for the south
ern resorts. The model wa la very
thin, soft, pal blue mulL The gown
was joined st the waist by a slg-sag
line of Cluny beading. The skirt was
mad with eight short gore Joined by
Gbwhs of Thin Material
beading, below these gores being - two
flounces set on under a wide band of
Cluny - Insertion. These flounces were
cut on the straight and were finished on
the edges by deep' tucks. Pin tucks
fitted the bodice at the waist line, the
upper part of the skirt also being finely
tucked about the hip. ' .
Th little chemisette and collar were
made of . Valenciennes. This model
would also be charming In any f the
thin white material, and although very
lmple, had In the original a vary
French and smart Uttl air pt Its own.
y Although of course there will prob
ably b many new development later
on In the fashions for 'summer gowns,
it Is an excellent plan, to buy the ma
terials for one's spring frocks early -In
the season when possible, and msny
well-gowned women have meat of their
spring and summer frocks made op dur
ing the quiet Lenten season. ... One al
ways gets a better choice of materials
If a selection is made early In the sea
son, snd as the Important points as to
cut and styls are already decided, it is
really an excellent plan to bay the
material mad up long before the
warm-weather season begins. -
THE ', OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, "PORTLAND. " SUNDAY" MORNING." MARCH 17,'
. In making these new gowns there is
apt to be some uncertainty as - to
whether to have the aklrt made long or
short, with s train, In round length or
short Of course, it Is a recognised fact
that the sweeping skirt Is "coming In"
again, especially for dressy frocks, and
even for street wear when the frock is
designed , for visiting or church ' wear.
Indeed, one fashion authority says that
the short-skirt frock wlU not be worn
by correctly dressed women, except In
the strictly tallorsmade costumes for
morning wear, or In simple little frocks
of a most Informal character,
Nevertheleea. the short skirt has un
doubtedly become o popular with
American, women that It will probably
be some time before this edict is en
forced, and. although meat of tha new
gown dealgned for Indoor wear for
formal occasions will be made with the
train aklrt or with a round sweep. It Is
quit sale. . to order one's out-of-door
frocks mads to clear th ground by at
leasi two, incnes. .-. ... . . , .. . . .
The young girls' still seem t ellna- to
th ahort-akirted frock even for danolng
gowns, put or course thl choice often
depend on what Is found to be most
becoming to the wearer. r
One novel idea recently seen among
the new models Is the Introduction of
Inset bands or cut-out pieces of deli
cately colored material of transparent
texture as part of the trimming on thin
whit frocks or figured mnlla or organ
die. For lnataace, one delightful Uttl
frock seen at a New Tork importer's
was a thin white mull, elaborately
trimmed with Valenciennes Insertion
and edgss.1 Three bands of very sheer
pal blue mull, finely tucked and edged
on each aids with laoe, war set Into
th lower part of the aklrt, a lltU of
the pale blue mull also- outlining . the
lower edge of the laoe yoke and being
Introduced . about th band sections of
th albow sleeve. . - - t . . .
A Gambling Charity.
i. From th London Telegraph. . . '
Two servant maids attended a meet
ing of th Guildford Charity Trustees
to throw dice for the charity known as
"Maid's Money." This was left by John
How In 1174, and each year there I a
competition for a check of 1(0. Th
die throwers must have been employed
for two year m one service in Guild
ford, but not at an Inn or alehouse.
Laura Cadman, who had It year' serv
ice, secured the check with a double six,
Emm Trimmer (eight years service)
throwing six and three. Trimmer will
be allowed to try again next year.
The Storing of Winter
By Beatrice Carey. ' -
r
H this ease you must rely solely on
th "ouno of prevention." See that
the fura are well aired a hot sua l(
disastrous to a fin seal garment
and thoroughly beaten with a slen
der switch. It will be to advantage to
use a regular fur comb also. Furs wlU
be benefited by th following treatment:
Heat a amall quantity of fine white
sand which eaa b obtained at " bird
stores In th oven until It I as hot
as th band can be born In It; scatter
this through the fur; whip lightly with
a switch, and finish- by brushing softly,
both up and down, with little whisk
broom. This wilt give luster to the fur.
If there are pockets, turn them Ineld
out and brush the corners well before
turning them back smoothly.
My experleno has taught me not t
rely on. moth-proof bag. - If you have
a spare dark closet paper It top, sides
and bottom with tar paper, covering this
with a second eoat of newspapers snd
hang the garments on coat hooks, exam
ining them regularly one a month. If
New Neckwear
By Dorothy Dal. v- ;
HB Illustration shows some of the
new neckwear seen In the shops
novelties, and, although many of
these little collars, ties and era
vats are rather expensive, most of them
present few - difficulties - to the clever
needlewoman, . who can copy them at
borne at very small cost.
On or two of the turnover piotured
how hand-embroidered designs and a
scalloped edge as decoration, many of
these models being embroidered In col
ored wash cotton Instead of th all
white, which 1 so successfully imi
tated , by machine work. ' In th all
white turnovers the most effective
models are those embroidered In open-
Spring Btyle In Neckwear.
work designs, arid some ef the - new
models show Inset pieces of Irish lace
along with th hand embroidery. .
. These hand-embroidered- collars are
made perfectly straight and are stitched
on a band which pins or buttons In the
middle of the front. They are starched
stiff enough to stand up and are cut
rather high as the prospective wearer
finds comfortable. Borne of the pret
tiest new oollar - have . tiny plaited
frill of laoe or hemstitched mull about
the edge, and thl fancy for plaiting 1
also in; evidence In the frilled bands
wblcji are sold by th yard and which
are worn down th front of th plain
shirtwaists. Among th tie to be worn
with the turnover, those of light-colored
and whit lawn, ; embroidered on the
ends, promts to take th plac of th
silk Windsor ties ao popular during th
lsst winter. Many of these white lawn
ties are embroidered In pale blue or
green; pink or, lavender, the colored ties
being usually . embroidered In white,
Lnue plaited Jabots, mad of handker
chief points, lac or hemstitched mull,
are very dainty and attractive. Another
very pretty Uttl cravat Is made of
small medallions of lace, ..edged with
frill of Valenciennes,
a cheat , or box most b used Una with
the tar paper and newspaper in the same
way, and make a bag ef several thick
nssses.of nswspsper; encase each gar
ment In on of these, paste shut tightly,
and If the cleaning prooeas has been
thorough you need not open th package
until yon are ready t wear th garment
After sealing up a package writ th
nam of th garment and It owner leg
ibly on label and pasts It securely on
th bag. Where coats and fur must ba
hung In a closet to which you must
have dally aeceas make bags for each
garment a Uttl .longer than th article
to be protected: stitch closely, "turn and
stitch again, leaving It long enough at
the top to be turned and tied down. . .
Woolen undergarments. If put away
just after being washed can be conald
ered free from sgs. Cloth garments
must be thoroughly brushed, aired,
sunned and cleaned, especial attention
being paid to th pockets by turning
them Insjd out and getting at every
bit of th dust secreted In the comers
i m "i"r
Designs
' By Beatrice Carey."
0 ' THE spring housecleanlng time
. draws 'on the question of wall
. papers has ' to be considered, and
It la the paper of a room which
gives It Its real atmosphere. Th
warmer colors, - especially the - browns
and ryellows and rede, bring sunshine
Into a room, while the colder colors, of
which the' coldest is blue, may be de
pended upon to soften too - brilliant a
glare. 1. , . '. - ', ..'-v
A high room allows of a frisse. or
drop celling, while a low 'room la much
Improved by an indication of vertical
lines In a design, or by sn arrangement
of vertical panels.. The celling may be
lowered in appearance by being tinted
or papered, but If it . la papered It is
better to use a plain shade than a de
sign. - . -r- -. ' -. V - '
In wall papers prsttlness i Is by no
means synonymous with expenss, for the
patterns and colon of costly papers are
successfully reproduced In the cheaper
grades.- Tha plain - cartridge-papered
waU, with fries and ceiling either flow
ered or of a light shade of the same er
of a contrasting color. Is never obtru
sive and la always In good taste.
No large figures of any -description
should be Introduced Into a small room.
If tha celling Is low the wall paper con
tinues up to It without a frlese, the
molding . being fastened where the, wall
and celling Join. Backgrounds of amber,
cream, fawn, rose, blue or pale green,
with the designs In contrasting colors,
are especially good for bedroom .papers.
One of the newest effects smong the
crown frieses for bedroom use is In what
might be termed a balance effect Un
like the conventional draped garland of
flowers so wtdsly used a feweasona
ago, this frlese ha only a very slander
line of flowers, and below It Is a simula
tion of a six-Inch ruffl ef ribbon of a
pal tint t match th color scheme of
in room. Above a self-tened striped
whit paper a fries of thl kind In
ptnk is particularly beautiful. There are
also vary delicate effecta to be bad In
the same design In green. ,
-,A dainty little reception-room In a
country bouse . was bung- with a . two
third combination - of cool, gray-toned
paper, the lower part betng .a . plain
duplex, and th other a figured paper.
In the latter case the design consisted
of faintly colored conventionalised pea
cocks, the two divisions being separated
by a picture molding in white. A nar
row white molding was also used at th
Ivory-toned celling. Th rest of the
woodwork was finished In white. An
excellent background was formed In this
Clothing
An excellent cleaning fluid, which ha
been used with , the best - results for
years. Is mads as follow.
Shav fin four ounce of Ivory soap
and let it soak over night In a quart
of soft rain water. In th morning set
It where It will dissolve, but not boll;
add an ounce of liquid ammonia, on
fourth Of an ounce of spirits of win
and on ounce of sther. Bhak and bot
tle, and when about to use dilut a
small quantity, of this with four time
as muoh boiling water. Spread th gar
ment .to be cleaned on an. Ironing board
wbos cover Is - protected by several
thicknesses of nswspaper tied, on; make
a soft pad of cloth, .dip In the fluid and
rub on the spots.. Afterward go over
the spots with clean hot water.
Put each garment away In a separate
newspaper-. carefully labeled, ' and
whether they e stored In boxes, cheat,
bureau drawers , or on shelves, if they
are perfectly clean and th paper Is not
broken the moths will have to look else
where to rar their broods. v.
1SC7.
i ., i i . . i ... . . . - . i "fn
' . t . - 1 . - ... y ' : - ;v..:'.
for Spring Wall Paper
way for water colore, eta. framed ' In
narrow gold moldings, with broad whits
mats. The furniture used was Sheraton
in .mahogany. . This was upholiteted In
dull , rose-colored material,.' while 'the
polished oak floor was covered with a
Wilton rug In shades of gray and rose.
Raw silk ourtalna in two tones of gray,
and hung from small brass rods, decorat
ed the wlndowa. -. . Y;
Tha treatment of a. bedroom of this
same house may off er- suggestions to
dns who is ahout to redecorate a bed
room for summer. Th walla and win
dow were hung In gorgeous cretonne
of a high color, th design of th wall
being birds of paradise with a conven
tional flowering tree effect . The fries
covered almost half of the wall, th
lower part being hung with vertically
trtped paper In pale browiC with a white
molding and washboard.'." '
The floor was covered ' with - a large
rug of burnt umber and several smaller
one In green and bra. Th cbalra and
sofa wars upholstered in the sam ma
terial, which formed : th . frlese, , and
were of mahogany. A large four-posted
bed stood In on corner, between tbe
door and bay window.' -It waa on of
th canopy sort with four carved post
,f 1 .' i n
reaching up a high a th top. of th
door, and was draped with a valance '
around th top and -with side, curtains.
Beside th bed stood a small Japan
lamp on a bedald table, which was also
of th mahogany.. ... ' :. '
' Two large, straight chiffoniers, with, f
cnt glass drawer knobs, stood n. oppo
site sides -of the window alcove, and :
held one or . two simple vases.- This -alcove,
had three windows, hung in ere
tonne' of somewhat similar - design to : ,
that used for the fries and chairs, and
fitted with light-colored blinds. In tha.
middle of thl bay- window stood a ma
hogany dressing table, fitted with a re--
volvtng . ovsl mirror snd covered with
an array of boudoir article. Directly
above this table a shaded electric light :
bulb was let down; from the celling,
' i . . i ii . ii i m ... i a .. ".. ,
Y The Only Way.". ' '
, ' ' From th Birmingham Post.
1 "I am writing an article." he said,
"on The Way to Manage a Woman.' " ,
' ."I suppose It will be a long one,u- ah
replied. In t slightly scornful tons.
"No," h answered. '"It will be quite .
short J i. fact It will consists of only;
two word 'Don't try!" ' . '
1
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I,