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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Feb. 10, 1907)
g-gB-gBBjn'nBBSB-wsw,sBa Smartest -and Daintiest in:WoMeiii9s Hgckwear Collar of Japanese Drawn Work. Round Collar of Silk Maltese Lace, Collar and Cuff Set of Irish Point ; :-. ' " Lace. VV(,' ' ' ' Never Has Femi- - nine Neckwear Been Such an All-Important Item of the Dress As Are These New Rimy Laces Now So Stylish THIS IB truly a aoh of neckwear, since the lacs stock which -forms part of. a bodice Is no longer tht . only way in which to finish off th neck of a flna waist. Nsckwear ha becoms o Important a subject end It has so many branches so to speak that U takes a Whole chapter to describe ' Just one variety. This is a chapter upon ' fine lace neckwear for dressy purposes, and It must needs be purchased unless one Is a maker of fine Uce. All the pieces ilhistrstetl are unique, 1 that each Is made entirely, every sepffate thread, by hand, and therefore, no two pieces are found "e'sartly alike: .. . '.' , Women can, of course, cut and sew us and fashloa lace pieces Into dainty j articles of the tame Shapes and uses as the pieces shown. They wlU be quite ' correct. Also any woman can . make dainty boas of Jntn or dotted tulle or .. net and attach rtbtmn -or lace ends - o them. 8uch a boa Is shown and Is im inensely becoming;. ? - " ' At the bottom of every thought upon dress adornment In a woman'a mind Is ,' the qmwtlon. ,-Vrhat ran I wear to make , look my prettiest?!' The universal answer 'to this question has been for centuries, "lace" Lace next to the face. If It is of the right ' kind, adds wonderfully to the attractive ness of any countenance. It softens tbe general, appearance, and-Jenda an altof -.delicacy and refinement and womanliness to a face which no other kind of neck- ' wear has ever been known to do. This 4 the reeeon that 1ace maintains its popularity from mason to season, why -It -appears mingled with most of The Race By Hoka i Smith. Governor elect , of ,. Georgia.' ; ". EW men fill a larger place in the public view in the southern states than Hon. Hoke Smith, recently elected governor of Georgia after a most .sensational campaign by ; an overwhelming majority. Mr. Smith is not only a man of broad views, who knows the complex problems which - are before his people for solu tion, but ha la a man of action, who has - compelled success lu wlintevi'r sphefc of activity- a been engaged." v ' - He realises that tha questloa of ' the relations between ths white and colored races la pressing for solution, and that It will require the. wisest .statesman shipk aa well aa the most earnest and united efforts of the leaders of thought . and action to reach the right solution. That he will play a most prominent part In this work Is regarded aa cer tain by ail who know Mr. Smith. Therefore anything he haa to say on this subject Is interesting and Impor tant , '-' ' - ' '' Ths race question Is not a southern or even en Arrierlcan question. .- It Is a world-wide question and Includes the yellow aa well aa the black races. I have my own views on this broad ques tion of the relations of ths races. , I am not prepared at this time to express tnsm, but-In time I hope to be able to present the race question to the people of the north snd east in a new light. One phase of the question which is of peculiar interest to the south, and Inci dentally to all who depend upon the "youth's great staples - cotton, naval stores, and lumbar la the labor situa tion Uerq. For much of the south'e la lor we depend upon the negro. Now, llie negro, taken as a whole, la ao con stllutvl that hs will not work beyond the time required to earn enough to supply him with the necessities of life and such luxuries as hs demands. These re fow.' i The wonderful material development of the south, despite the handicap f -fjitiKiurlorr labor, has created sn enor mous dvmur.d for the kind of - labor : Boa of Dotted Tulle or 'Lace, ; With . Satin Enda.' , ; the other things which constitute neck wear, and. why Its variety and novelty are shown only In different styles and pat terns of lace rather than. In a different material from lace. This season it Is pronounced that neck wear shall be diaphanous and delicate,. made' of filmy and transparent rather than of heavy and close laces,. Practi cally the only heavy lace Worn is Irish crochet of the finest hand made, quality, and tlila preserves Us place among pieces of neckwear beca use -It Is so very dura ble rather than because It is so hand- Problem in Which jtha negro is depended upon to do. Because of the. demand, for workmen on the. railroads, at the awmllla, -on pub lic works and In the various urbsri in dustries, tbe pries .of labor has gone up enormously in ths last few years. The negro laborer who was abls to .make 60 or 75 cents a day on the farm then Is" In demand at more than twice that fig ure in other lines now. ' The result tias naturally, been a steady desertion of .the J?B.AfedftjcATCiliejBt fjerm- labor. - - Worka Frort Necessity. ' ' - " ' -' ' The situation la accentuated by tha peculiarities of the negro. , Aa a rule, he will work only ao long as necessity compels. Voder tbe acale of wages pre vailing he is able to make by three days' labor sufficient to supply his needs for a week. Hence hevwlll work only three days a week. There are, of course, ex ceptions, but, this la the general rule. We suffer not so much from a lack of Inborers as from a lack of laborers who will work, . , ' - Despite, adverse conditions the mate rial . development of the country- has been ltttlo short bf tnarveimis. There Is scarcely a little tows In aoutb Qeor gla which- cannot boast of msn who ars rich, and who have made tbelr fortunes within . a comparatively short time through the development of . the re sources of the xountry. Many of these men can count their wealth In aeven fig urea. And so fur as Georgia, at least, Is concerned, this prosperity Is- on a solid foundation and will contlaui. There haa been In the atate a. steady sdvsncs In the standard of education. This Is particularly true as to Increased knowledge of the sclsnce of sgrlcultura Farm lands which were almoat unsal able a few years ago at from f 1 to 14 an aore aie now In demand at $21 to f iO an acre. And they arc worth -the advance. Our farmers are fast learning how to cul tivate their lands so aa to bring tha best results. The lsbor conditions have forced them to It. Practically all of Oeora-lse arnMe land-can be made 14 produce a bale of cotton to the acre, with other crops In proportion, , And la v 2.. . . ..,... , , . ,.i : 1.1 AU ' II , Tllli "OREGON SUNDAY" lOXTPvlJAL. PORTLAND, SUNDAY ''MORNING, FEBRUARY Colalr and Cuff Set soma and decorative. "- . '..,,' Lace neckwear pieces fn variably come In sets. The ' consist of cuffs with a stock collar, a stock and square or round or stole collar, a V-shaped front or fancy shaped front piece with stock at tached, a yoke-and Jitock. a.- bertha- with or without a yoke ' and stock, and a fichu or Jabot. In all cases the sleeve pieces come to match. - Borne of the collars of lace with square fronts snd a square back are turned around the other, way and wont as dresa,yoke to fasten in the back. These the; South this ' connection it msy be said that there are few of the great staples whlcjj Georgta .-will' not produce' abundantly. - ... i i. , ,. ,. . . Georgia's Cotton Crop". Wh y. - Oeorgta - could;- if necessary, produce aa much cotton aa la now pro duced in the United States, aad still feed herself. ' - '.- '':'', " ; . I have been making an experiment on my farra. near Atlanta, -the result- of which shows what can be done through out the atate. I took four acres of the poorest land on the place. It waa worn. out by improper methoda of cultivation and given up aa useless. I plowed It deep, fertilised heavily and planted It In cow pons. In two years' time It is sd that I can get a great crop of pea vine hay, the best forage that can be made, and a bale of cotton to the acre from It Similar experiments are being made throughout the atate, and It Is largely to this steady spread of knowledge ot better methods of farming thst the won derful Increase In the value of farm lands may bs attributed, despite- the soarcfty and Inefficiency of farm labor. To return to the negro problem.. The best and most satisfactory way to aolve It, ao far aa the south Is concerned, ia by Increasing the white and decreasing the black population. - It Is a fact that in those counties where the ' whites Isrgely predominate the negroes do better In every way and give little trouble. In those counties where the negroes are In large majority there Is a tendency among them to re vert to the original saysge. Immigration of the right kind would do much to bring about conditions which would go a great way toward minimising, If not - eliminating, . the negro and labor problems In the south Some practical steps si ready have been taken to turn the right kind of immi gration to th south. I hsve agreed to take a German or Swedish family on my place. I will pay, their expenses from New Torkr guarantee employment and 'comfortable living' the first yeer end an opportunity for a permanent home, wUUin reach 01 churchea, Ho of Maltese Lace'. are practical collars, since they, serve two purposes and look equally charming in either. Several sorts ot fine lace come in yoke, collars as they might be called Ilk maltese, handsome point de Venlse, fine Cluny, Milan- lace, point lace and sometimes Duchesse - -. Very exclusive and beautiful seta of hand made lace are seen In llllan. fine Cluny and silk Idaltese.. These ara new favorites in fashionable circles,, but it Is hardly necessary to say that the newest favorites In this season of the laces ara those which ara revived from some of elementary schools, high schools for the girls and colleges for the boya.-. ' Right Kind of White Citixens. ; I shall seek to find men in each county In tha atate who will make the aarae offer. - This will t a beginning in a practical way.-. These .people, prosperous and contented, will be the very best Im migration agents.; They will write of the splendid opportunities and the cer tain reward for intelligent labor offered here, "and In- time their-friends-will- fol low them and the atate will begin to fill up.wlth the right kind of white clti sens. , , ' The. .recent rlotlngln Atlanta ...was greatly exaggerated. There were not more than eight people killed as a di rect result of the so-called rlota. gov-' eral others were killed, it is true, ut In the -routine of police duties, - These killings might have occurred at any time or any place. .-t - --v - - There was little destruction of prop erty, such -as would have occurred had the city been in the hands of a raging mob, as waa described. Sudh affairs ars roost unfortunate and are reprehended by all '.law-abiding men, but they have occurred in many, many other portions of the country with not. one tenth the stir. -, The fact that . our section has for years been ao free from anything of the kind caused the axoesslva attention. Killed by Cigarettes. Sensational statements of the growing evil of cigarette smoking amongst schoolboys were mads at a meeting of the South Shields education committee, aaya the London Chronicle, --- -- It waa reported that a scholar named Richard Wood. 1 years of iage, had died, and that hla Illness wss attributed to exoesslve smoking. Another scholar, sged ia, was at present under medical treatment, and he had the character of being an inveterate smoker. The Rev. R. B. Holmes Ssld that In his delirium In his last hours the only thing which seemed to occupy ths thoughts of the boy Wood was smok ing. He asked for "Tabs" and matches, and ' made the ' motlona of striking matches and lighting rlgsrettea. Aa far as the- Inquiries of the marms-ers went, they found out that there was a great deal of cigarette smoking among boys far mere than anyone supposed. , . :' . . i - - ... .. - v Ot the oldest laces of the Sumptuary period of art In lace In Bpain -and Italy. Fine Cluny, which la extremely fash ionable for neckwear in its handsome varieties. Is not suitable for neckwear at all when machine . made The same might be said of- point de Venlse, which, although very handsome when machine nde. Is suitable tor almost anything rather than neckwear . when so woven. In separata motifs, to attach to aome othsr kind .of neckwear, it la quite cor rect, but if one cannot wear real lace next the face one should, at least, select soma such excellent and dainty Imita tions aa may be found In princess lace, an . Imitation of Dnohesse; point Aloste, an imitation " of point applique, and a verycharminar lace,- too; XJerVe. a good Imitation of rare Irish Carrlckmacrosa, and Valenciennes, of which there are many, fine imitations. There are other transparent laces, imitations of thoss weft by patient fingers after, designs wrought by the finest artists of this and a past ags, and If one la careful to select AST are the preparatlona and In- tries te la the -organlaa.tIOn"Incl-: dental to the; Journeying of his ' majesty, King Edward of Kng- ' ' land. Tha absolute perfection of all arrangements Is owing to the fact that those. who are Intrusted with- the business, know exactly what Is to bs done and the way to do It ' Whether the Journey Is tobe on land or. sea. the first - lnttmfttlrtn, i generally apeaklng, comes through his majesty's . private secretary, for this gentleman ' knows more of the future plans as well aa of the present personal matters of his ma jesty than doea any ,other Individual. Much of the royal time Is of necessity mapped out befv-ehand and prospective Journeys are thus arrange long before the actual date of departure or, indeed, of public announcement . ; Should hla majesty be about to pay a"islt to sny part of Great Britain everything ' can ' be ' well arranged by telephone , and telegraph,,, or in aome oasxs by dispatches,-conveyed by spe cial messenger. But if a foreign place la to be the rendeavous, then a courier, tinder the orders of a lord-in-waltlng, goes out and t raver see the ground over which the king will travel, making all neoessary arrangements en route. These are far more - elaborate than can be Imagined by tha ordinary outsider, for everything must be sbsolutely exact from beginning to end, with no possi bility, of a hitch .or delay. The day before the king starts ths carriage lo convey his majesty to tha station Is duly ordered by telephone direct from the palace to the offices of the Royal Mewa. ' A lord-ln-waltlng or an equerry sends the order and a crown equerry being responsible for Its fulfillment A special traln.s In 'readiness on tha day or the Journey, this very often meaning the closing of a platform to the public for tne time being. During the transit there is the temporary holding up trains oft sidings, ths running of a pilot nglna a few minutes In sdvanca of the roynl special and the employment of a email army Of men who ara stationed at leva, crossings snd othsr exposed places tnrtughout tha entire route. y ' . - ' - v . .. - . ....... - . . 10. -4- t.;:-, -L Maltese Lace Collar and Stole to Be Worn With Light Silk Gowna. the thin and delicate varieties one 1 quttq safe In making up such laces Into neckwear even though' the article so achieved be quite cheap in price. . Round lace collars, of the sort and quality shown oa this page, are admir able on . either a allksatln or velvet g own,Tljey may bo .. appliquedT do wn upon the cut-out neck of the dress and so constitute a collar, or they may 'be worn like a gulmpe with the edges under me oecouetage of the gown. . In case a high neck la desired insertion or edging of -the- inme laae. la invariably .used for a stock. Such edgings 'and Insertions come in collar -wklthe In 'all the -rare laces because they are more employed for neckwear than for dress trlmmlnga. The reon of this la obvious. . A womsn of small meana may Indulge In good lace neckwear, but only a very wealthy wo man may luxuriate In real laoe trim mlnga. . .' The economy ot the laoe collar la very clear, since It serves as slther collar or yoke, The bertha, however, may serve only the one purpose. It comes all ready In the snaps of a bertha, allowing a full ripplearound-) tne snouiaers so that It. may be at tached to a gown with either a sauare or round deoolletage. - With If come the cuff pieces, which may either be draped over the arms aa - bits of ' evening sleeves, attached to the prevailing el bow sleeves, or,-If the bertha Is ar ranged upon a calling costume; work with either a long or short sleeve; - Borne or the fine lace front pieces come with a sort of yoke attached, as well aa a stock. - These pieces usually extend to the top of 4 wide girdle or all thaway down to the belt line, aome tlmee hanging over It. Ttiese are -worn with simple gowns. usually In the-morntag, and for busi ness sulta on the street, and are pretty and becoming,, but oh. bow tedious the little almond-eyed woman must have round the work! If an European had done as mucfh work upon a oollar-lts price would hare placed It among the exclusive novelties to be worn only- by the rich, but the little women of the orient get very little for their wonder ful needlework.; In the first, place, threads ara drawn .In the entire piece and worked over Into a lace filet net of much strength and beauty.- Upon this square meshed- net 1s then darned a decorative pattern, with a raised edge around the figure.. - Among articles of lacs the old-fashioned and becoming Jabot haa come Into Its own again. The frothy delicacy of a Jabot haa a charm with-ron as well aa women. They give a very dressy ap pearance to a bodice and the fashion of wearing bodices of silk, which now pre vails, makes the lace decoration at tractive and almost necessary. , Over a velvet or silk calling costume also, the lace stock with -Its front at tachment and cuffa ;ls very effective. There Is a popular.iallac-r. that Jh king travela 'free, but auch moat emphati cally ia . not the case. . Hla majesty pays for Accommodation Ilka any or dinary mortal. ' Tha bill la sent to his private secretary and the ' amount - is paid, out of his privy purse by tha Offi cial keeper. ' .-. j The royal ' Special Is a thing of beauty-.-g-mi's-ntflcent emmple of art in railway construction.. The exteriors of the csrs ara finely painted, . and the coat-of-arma on the psnels ara done by artists who werq . paid $2 BO for each panel. -The train la made up of their majesties'. -saloons, fitted for -day and night traveling; cars for the respective suites and servants and excellent kitch ens. The , king's smoking-room ia In mahogany inlaid ' with . rosewood and satl n wood. .The chairs - curtains and carpets ara 'green, - and the griding of the metal, work haa been - subdued to make the whole restful to the aye. The day compartment Is In white .enamel, with furniture of satin wood Uilald wtth Ivory,, and has upholstery Of pale green morocco. His majesty's bed and dressing-rooms ara In white enamel, with silver-plated fittings and - green Up holstery, whilst the queen's bedroom Is a beautiful compartment draped In a delicate pink, with silver-plated fitting. The heating and oooklng arrangement ara most elaborate. The atmosphere of the saloona can be raised to any tem perature by electric heaters, and for hotj weauier ' mere -re-eiec,ria.. tana,... i na cooking Is done by electricity and the smoking-room Is furnished with electrlo cigar llghta. v On the tablea In each car la placed what Is known aa the "way bills" of Ths Journey, showing the names of each sta tion passed and the scheduled time for passing, together with the names of every person on the train snd the com partment In which they are traveling. It ia usual for the general manager of tha line, the superintendent and the chief engineer -to travel on the train, and the engine la alwaya driven by the same man. , If the king ahnuld be pro ceeding to the continent the train Is run to thaprlvate stage of the port of fr: , V--. v.. , Bertha of Silk Maltese Lace. Much, trouble in th way - of . bodto - decoration and much expense la trim. . mlnga are saved when a woman poe aessea a few of the pretty lace fronts which Dame Faahion baa ao kindly pro vlded for her. A well selected, front of , good lace will -give .cachet. a-laln r bodice or. an otherwise - unattracUva ; gown. ...... Another new laoe which is having '; vogue in neckwear aeta la the Japanese darned lace, which Is made up Into collars which men . were . the first - wear. The- Jabot Is the Tmost T easily made of all bita' of lace neckwear, - One haa only to flounce I a wide lace edging upon a narrow atrip of anything white and attach It to a i lace stock collar. The ton of the labot is gathered full to make It stand out like bows, while the bottom Is gathered. ' more scantily, and the end turned up to ' form a point, although the Jabot with. , the square bottom la quite aa smart aa the one with a point , ;, These Jabota of lace are made In every variety of atyle and fastened to all aorts of stocks snd gowna. Needless to say that the plain gown ef simpler' stuff, or ths cotton house dress for morning wear does not require a laca judoc at ine necg, out : ratner one or , the fetching arrangements of linen or ribbon .to which attention will be given . la another story. : : . . ... Valenclennea, oriental, - IJerre, re- ' pousae lace and blsette ara all excellent ' ' inexpenalva lacea . of . which to . make ' Jabota. -"', Laoe stocks are ao frequently torn by aewlag la bones - whenever - they ara ' worn, or by having them washed with, " the bones in them, . that a few sug gestions as to the ears of laoe atookg In this respect should not coma amies. First of all, tha busy or the lasy woman ' -may now buy strips-of chiffon with bones attached in tha aldea and "back. Tfcwse may be basted under tha lace ' ' . stock and take very little away from Ita transparency. -The correct thing to do Is to get soma very narrow tape and a piece of thin "dreaa" whalebone, aa white aa possible, Bew a atrip of tare ap tha back and. In a alaatlng dtrecttoitfea og each aide tha stock. - Smart, .well- ' made, stocks do not have tha whale- " bones put In straight up and down to . form Ill-setting points In tha top of the collar. .Leave an and ef tape loose at the bottom of each atrip. Cut bits of , whalebone aa long as tha height of tha - -stock. . Clip It Into two or three narrow strips:. One. width. Of whalebone will -usually make three narrow strips. Slip ' one In each tape, turn -up ths loose end" and ew it In place. When tha collar la to be laundered lip the end of- tha tape, slip out the bones and tha tapes are washed with the collar, fhua alwaya looking white and fresh. It Is an lm menae comfort to a woman to have all her washable neckwear finished in. this manner, . ;v . embarkation.-aad .-his majesty- i -re-eelved by the port admiral and tha eons mander of the Victoria and Albert, hla , yacht which hah V been ? previously . ordered and haa oome to htr moorings. King Edward la tha .head of a most powerful; navy- and Ih0uarchof a large empire, and it la fitting that bis Jour neys in a yacht should be In keeping wfth-hlgTrtRta -and OlgnltyTF The '"royar" Ship is built entirely of steel, wood sheathed and partially coppered, and la wiiu iwwwiui twin ecrews; naa a. aeiiular double bottom and la divi Into water-tight compartments, render-" Ing her practically unslnkable. Her di mensions are loo feet long by 404 feet' wide. She ia capable of 30 Vi knots pur hour, but can give .a eontlnuoua run of J.OOO : miles at 14 knota without re coallng. She ia magnificently fitted up and thei royal apartments are between the atate and upper decks, where are also tha Csblns and suites ef principal officers. All theae are -connected by a corridor 11 feet in width.' All tha re--ceptlon-roome and atate cabins ara lined with fire-proof wood, sumptuously fur nished beds and other articles of rural tu re being fastened to the floors. There 1 Is an elevator to connect tha decks; a state dining saloon to seat 60 persona; .' a promenade qf 160 feet and on tha main deck two pretty kloska well fitted with glass panels,, especially for obser vation use in bad weather. On tha for ward bridge la also a covered aeat for the use of ths king, where hla majesty can Tsxamlne the charts, . Both with officers and men service on board ths Victoria and Albert is re garded with great favoy. . For the former It either meana quick promotion In the navy or a long and well-paid service on tha roysl yacht with very light duties. With regard to the let ter, only men who are distinguished' by long service and good conduct are Included In the crew.. All "Aboard.. . Now bid farewell, I beg of thee, .. Unto the flowing flagon And come and ride a space with me ; - Upon the water wagon. h
