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ByM rs-Osb orri Cr eat or Of F
For Th? Fa5hionabIcWome
Of Am erica
l
-
S77 ,
Skating Costumes Should Have -
Closely Fitting Coajs and Skirts;
That flare About the Bottom.
The New Fashion, of Wearing
White Buckskin Shoes Is All
"TPA Tfl TT TV . . i 1 Mr I i - V 7-
77 the Vogue on tfie Rinks.
Cloth and Velveteen Are Favorite (
: Materials- for Skating Costumes.
. turn, ror k.tint. b?caui al
Wont verybod skatr. , rroni
, ths little Mexican maid on th. '
. (San Antonio akating riuk to Mr. Rock
feller on hi. northern lake, all the world
la skating. . . -
'"'"-American omen kre following in the
, atepa ot Kurop. in the modlah paatime of
akating. In Parte, for InaUnce, women
, arerfectljr craay: about akating and
' 10 infr day to the rink aa regularly
. -4ae . we go. to our dinnera. To live a
HWfaole dy without akating In Parln
that would be imposaible! ' '
!t...Jrr.0m until o'clock all fashionable -..
Parle gathers at the rink. No matter
whether they can akate or not, nor
'whether they ever mean to endeavor to
akate, ;they go to the rink Juet the
, mm. Here they meet their friends.,
.i "f ". course, eloce all Parla la preaenu
They have tea and chat and watrli th
' gny figures twirling about the ice or
'Skimming like brticht-hued .swallows
from ead to end of the rink. "
We have not come to the uUrn-fanh-
tiloabte skating-rink tea and to the gay
social featoree ef the European rinka.
, but we have gone jnst as daft upon
the subject of skating aa the very live
liest Parialenne. . They have progressed
. so far lit devotion to thta raerclae that
In one of our towns the only theatre
, and opera-hound in the place has been
converted ' this season Into a akating
rink, i No doubt other towna have fol
lowed thla novel method of providing
room for skaters. At all events. In
very city in 'the land ekatir.g rlnka for
both Ice and roller-skating have cropped
np like daisies In June, and young maids
and staid matrons all seek garments
which are strtctly the correct thing to
wear noon the rink.
, Another fad ef the European artlnte
on skates which we now copy In that of
, wearing white buckskin shoea with our
katea. ' Everybody who is- anybody
owns white buckskin akating shoee. and
"not to have them proclaims that you
era deficient In at least en art of
, skating." .. '
With the white bwkskln shofs are
worn gloves of the same kind, only a
trifle leas heavy In quality.
All the smart women of Paris wear
"white shoea. and before the winter Is
far advanced we will be able to say
that all the smart women in America
wear white skating shoes. -
" We in New Tcrk and Ban Franclaro
may learn a very practical and beauti
. ful lesson from the women and men
' who Indulge la outdoor sports In mid
winter all along our northern border
from the Atlantic to th Paclflo coast,
ft Is a Canadian custom, and Canada hag
lots of delightful customs. Both men
and women appear upon the 1c or the
snow according to whether the sport
be skating, curling, gnowshoelng, tobog'
ganlng or akling In costumes made of
blanket material, which is very.. light,
very warm and t.jronderf ally Attractlvg.
as they wear It. ,
"These brlsht ooStumes add wonderful
ly to the effective appearance of A rink ,
on ne of our northern borders, and
could be recommended for outdoor
skating, -xurllng and Ic hockey as far
eouth aa Ice and anow may be bad
to gtva excusea for the radiant ap
!a rel. ...
For skating purposes coats are an
rloso-fltUng. or. at reset, partly fitted.
They may be long, but are preferably
elrort. and wha worn Indoors the coats
are dtxoarded. ' and smart blouses are
worn aurlns-the eaerelae. -Th onet
may be replaced when on la resting
ard Ilk'. te become chlllod, .
All kinds of skirts are worn on the
skating rink, and all are correct, provid
ed. ' of course, that they are simply
made, ahort ana set well. Gored, pleat-v
ed and circular eklrts- are all preaaed
Into service for akating costumes, aa
well as th high eornelet or princess
skirt. The most fashionable of all skat
ing skirts, however, are those which
cling about the hips and flare out well '
around the bottom. As It is the fash
ion to weaf brightly colored petticoats
"With skating costumes, the effect Is
very pretty as the skater twirls about
on thn tee, disclosing glimpses of pink
and red. green, bright blue or yellow
.pettiooate. - There- always- seems t0 be
a demand for . bright - colors upon ice
nnd snow, and It Is not only the fad to
wear bright petticoats, but also vivid
costumes in bright-colored cloth mate
rials as well aa in velveteen.
Thia last Is on of th moat modlah'
of materials for skating purposes and
Is combined with, fur, cloth and other
trltpmlngs. , . . . t . ,
Generally speaking, skirt for the rink
are not trimmed. ' If trimming la em
ployed It la put on sparingly and simply
The reason for this Is -obviousiim
csnnot skate with enjoymmt ln""lffifrvy
garments .and the whole endeavor in
making vp a'contume for active out
door sport should be to have the ma- -terlal
warm, hut as light In wvlght
ca possible, a nd-aa, unhampered with
unneceaeary trimmings.
Coat". n the "contrary, may b trim
med elaborately, but not heavily. Bom
trimmings weigh lees than half what
others do, and discrimination should
be used In their selection. Skating
coats aim to be as Jaunty, a smart,
as attractive and even dreaey as pos-'
sible. The golf coat, the walking Jack
et and even the hockey coat are all on
the negligent order of garments, but
the akating coat must lend Itself to the
grace and charm of Its wearer In every
line and In every shade and color and
plan of decoration. -Skating In the most .
graceful of art, and to skate In "any
old thing" Is a libel upon this beau--tlful
naatlnie. -
A fetching little contume for the rink
Is shown In figure A. - It short, fitted
Jacket extende juat over the top of the
clinging . under portion of a princess
skirt. Two loosely laid pleats on each
sld of th center of, th Jacket back
are caught under embroidery Just above
the bottom of th Jacket. Relow the
embroidery a velvet ruffla is formed
by th releaae of th pleats, making a
"cunning" little Jacket-tail. An em
broidered folllage dealgn ' extends up
each aids of the back, terminating Just
an Inch from the arm holes In a slen
der point of embroidery. This Is worked
I" heayy silk of th same color as th "
velvet. . , , ; . - . v .
' Uo front are pleated to a velvet
border, which at the top disappear un
der a turned-over colli r, which extends
quit far down the front In point. Em
broldered ornament decorate fronts.
A -high military collar of brown vet
vet bordered with yellow finishes the
neck, and this may be turned over If
desired. A vest of cloth, of th shade
of brown seen In th cloth skirt, and
which Is lighter than ' that of
th Jacket, 1 trimmed at th bottom'
with a border of) yellow and one r
brown velvet, and down th front wlik
velvet buttons. -
, Jdedlunf full sleeves sre tucked arm
Ih outer "I if a with three tucks half an
inch in width. A turned-up cuff Is em",
aelllshed wltlH an -embroWereit nrnnmenr
on tb outer side. . , .
r The aklrt U a filled Prlnceas x.t4id-
m. ' j t w
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many kinds of trimmings. A striped t
tweed, for lrtataace. In a vert practical i
costume, might be trimmed - with bias "
folds of tb sama matartal. '.
Whit caracul would ' b a good" fur
to wear with thia costume, or sealskin,
or, if some other fur trimmed neck and v
sleeves, that should also ba uaed for ?
muff. stoleIf on U worn end hat
While cloth and velveteen are favorite -,
faahlonabl materials for the making
of skating costumes, velvet and oordu- :
roy are much used In building expensive
dresses, and all manner of tweed and
serge and suiting materials ar to be
seen, slnoe all cannot afford, th high-
priced fabric favored by th world ai.
society;- Thes other material do very f
wall and may be mad up smartly and
efecttvely, bearing 1b mind that" bright
colors are beet upon th rlnka.. Where
on is not able to tfollow any fashion
at all 1a th matter of shoe, glove,
materials and colors, rt la best to dress
as Inconspicuously as possible In 'some
good dark color. If It I made up well
no on will pans to contrast th cos-,
turn with those of greater attractive
ness, because tt will not . Insist upon
such oontraat ...
' . . J08EFA WIL80N OSBORN. ".
ft- ...
A A Really' Fetching Coftume
i , Showing a Brown VelTet 8hpr(
. Coat and Cloth Princess Skirt.
'. B An Attractive' Pony Coat In Pony
Skin with a aoth PUsated Skirt. "
; C -A Skating CoetuVae of White
.Corduroy, VelTet With Dark Fur
Trimmings.
--
--p Avery
lsstsm
" .7. .rm r--
Ing above th under part of th short- the ride. Of course, otn other brown
walsted Jacket, -At the bottom tt flares fur me.' h worn - In the turban. . mid
well a a not to Impedo "tho feet wh;i hrn mo nd plnvi a are xrvtilM-:
skating. c '"nneldcrlng the jellnw nnte In. cmtunv
With this coetume. ghould-b-oinjti4 lV yellow glov. aleo..-wmild look"
"white hurkeklrv ehos with gloves to will if whtti? ones ntt not worn,
match and a email ttirhnn of aiihle fur ' Figure ft shows n seml-looae short
with a pompon of gold mat about ua tuit, known ns tint-"pvy" coat, an vi,
It. .il care, it la made of Russian pony
kin. which-la Very' pretty. It Is blark
an.i slightly r-emhles -cnrcul In -pcHrnnce,
'ainl Is made finite full at 1h
bcttniw" Of th" bir k. whli h la looee 0'1
plented. Short rrints. cut UMe a aquar
veal, ere flnlalied In art open V neck.
BraiidciiuuTKi of soulache form Hi fas-
, tenlngs aa well a decorations . In the
front Of th coat, .
The sleeve ar pleated in th arm-
. hole and underneath a deep carved cuff.
. This caff is open at th back and pleat
ed on th edge above th arm. .
The Warmth of Color.
With this coat la worn a cloth skirt,
which may be green, blue, red or warm
brown In color unless on has reasons
for wearing black. The brighter the
. color of th skirt th better.' It I box
pleated on each side the seam down the
front and side-pleated 'the rest of the
way round. All the pleats sr stitched
, at the top nearly to the hips. r
Corduroy is one of th handsomest of
materials for skating costumes, 'and
seems peculiarly adapted to costumas
for outdoor purposes, since It la warm,
has aufficlent and not too much weight,
Is-handsoms and urable.
Figure C Illustrates a smart skating
' costume of corduroy. ' It has a gored
- skirt, gathered In the back and trlmmod
with two medium wld fold alternating
with two very wld ones, th lower of
which forms th hem. This I faced
with whit cloth, although whit flannel
would make aa good a facing. Thl
skirt Is built ever a drop-skirt of white
silk, which is finished with a deep
pleated, flounce. The oorduroy skirt is
- gatheaed a trifle under the upper fold,
giving greater breadth to the lower
portion., .' . y '
v A short, aquar. semi-fitted Jacket
is built a little on the bog order Jn
general appearand,, although not ; in
lines. '.. '. -
A wld blag fold, stitched a little In
side the edges, forms a sort of belt
" effect which comes to a point on esch
sid the front and back. A similar fold
peases over th shoulders and term i
batea In polnta both In th back and
front, upon the belt-fold. The fold
' which trima, the bottom of the" Jacket
' is cut np In a point In thn center -of
the back, making a fancy shaped effect
' there, Helow a high, tamed -over , seal
. skin collar another told encircles the
neck and. terminate In points on each
sld unon a fold that trim th front
edge and ends In points upon that
which finishes th bottom Oi th cost.
Full sleeves ar gathered to th arm
hoi and also under a large cuff of seal
skin. ...
It Is possible to use fold a of on ma
terial upon a suit of another, and to
apply bunds of hrald or of fur In th
mnnr In which the fold r are applied.
ll this would depend upon th ort f
material uaed. but . the style Is adapt
able to many kind of materials and te
Save Your' Straw, Hats. .
. If you haW thrown your last Bum
mer's straw hat on top of the wardrobe,
thinking that next year It will not be In
style and will com In bandy only, to
wear around the houae, get tt down,
brush tb duat off it and put it away
carefnlly. . S.L . '
For next year th earn kind of s(raA
hats will be worn aa last year. Split
straw, sennit and soft brim will be Just ,
aa much in demand. Panama hats have '
not yet aeen their finish and on, may ;
wear hi next-summer without fear of
being laughed at. .
' Th atraw hat manufacturers, who'ar t
Juat now at the height of their season, f
are all making the same kinds of hat
that they mad th season before. There !
will be perhepa some little changes, but
not enough to b noticed. 1 . ;
Th Panama, It Is expected, "wilt be '
revived again, and the turban brim
straw hat, which can b distorted to
suit th tast of It wearer, will also be ;
In demand." . Lota of soft straws with
the pencil our are also being made.
Nobody Is thinking mucfh of straw hats
now. Thoughts of ear protectors and
sealskin caps ar more appropriate, but
th atraw hat manufacturer ar doing
their summer thinking months ahead of
ttm.
' . It Didn't Work.
Th late 8am Bmatl had his faults."
said an Atlantan, "bat he did not dodge
the penalty of them. -When he went
wrong, he owned up like a man, and If
ptinlehment was due. he took It.
"That, was th doctrln Sam Small
preached. Ha hated dodger. ( He used'
to laugh bitterly st the plea of 'hyp
notic Influence' that need to be put up
by nearjy every murderer.
"I -once heard him ridiculing hyp
notism. He said that h bought pretty
heavily one year for Christmas, and ,
when the bill came In for turkey and
mincemeat. . candy, ... ducks, chickens,
plum pudding, fralt cake and o on. h
thought to himself that here - waa
os for hypnotism to be tried. r
"H went first to hypnotise the gro- -car.
i Approaching th man, he looked,
him squarely in the eye. at the earn
time repestlng slowly and Impressively:
-My bill te paid." -
"A chang came over the grover's
faee. His color faded, hi eyes grew
dull, his expression blsnk. And In a '
strange., mechanical voice h muttered:
- -You're a liar.' " ;. ... . . -....,.
RoldVrs Never Carry Umbrellas.
Th rain felt In torrents on the sol-,
dlers tramping sturdily! down' the mud
dy street. . , i -
."Why don't they put np their umbrel- .
Isff said a spectator.
With a sneer an elderly man re
plied: -'..A . '-
."Don't you know, sir. that soldier
never carry umbrellas? . History recorda
Just on Instance of their having dona
so. It wa In an engagement of the
civil war. and a group ef officer were
holding up umbrella to shield them
selves from-a thunder storm when Gen
eral Grant passed. ,vy
The geneYal frowned at the slghf
snd sent an sld to the officers with this
historic message:
t."1 do not, approve of th use
umbrellas In war, and will not allow
any of my soldiers to make themselves'
ridiculous In the eyes of th enemy.'
.Inc that tlm - ndd the old mn.
"no soldier has ever dared to protect
hi uniform with th sffemlnat vm
brails."