THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTLAND,' SUNDAY MORNING. NOVEMBER S5, 18C3,
1 V
By
Mr&Osbornici
Creator Of Fashions for
The Fas h i o n able Worn en
-r-- - : ' , tjA
Of Am erica
Gownsforthe
- Horse, Show
Will Be Richer
1 Biit More Simple
in Effect Than
; Ever Before.
Whileffie -
IcTBe Worn
Will Be Much
-More Elaborate
' Than Anything
; Yet Seen, and ; ,
Will Introduce
i the New Half-
f" HrtJB conveying an effect
Wj' of simplicity coupled with
-costly elegance, - gowns - for -
. ins Don snow wuj ss ncner.
In materia la and make thU year, yea.
van than ever before. A moat admirable
example of a amart gown to wear at th
home ahow lit the evening le ahown Id
figure A. v
Thjs.gofl.. la ftfwhlt broadcloth,.
elaborated with Irleh and point laoe, then ,
which two greater contrasta eould hardly
be found. It la built upon a closely ,
in tea rounaaiion or tarteia ana maae in
princess style and finished at the bot- .
torn with a knife-pleated ruffla.
The bodice has a stock and upper
rhemlssette iortion of princess lata
minified with point. Panels of Irish lace .
ate aet over each shoulder and terminal '
In points on tha front and back- of the
bodice, framing ret-in pieces of contrast,
ins; laces and from which hanr smalt
pointed panels of princess lace. A front
panel of Irish lace extends all th way
from tha chemisette to the edge of the
gown." narrowing atthe waist MIC arid
broadening across the bust and above
1 the feet...- . - v .
A very effective panelof lace begins
r ilf 'PHIW
'."I ih" ' A-ttVV. UOWO " Wh,t C-An El.bor.t. Simpl. Gown o!
.J ,1, J; -VVX " " " oadcloth Tnmmed With Hc.vy and . Black" Chiffon -EmbeUished With
(' "1 Wf'AMT W V'X - ' ' To mak -"perfectly etunnlna"
J !''1 lW Al 'A 'l ' Vit i W S,' 'A. iS i-V.1W afternoon nown on this model, built It In
I "M : U ' ' ' i - l I Ii"' TO' - M , canary yellow, biscuit color, mauve or
V -M 'RXW V'v'WV:i" W1'' v-'is mustard color. In all black this would
a' ' 4' I .1 . r. V 1 V i : 1 tSl M 1 ,Vi! W ; f X .... M i vorv hnndenma imn. Needless to
divide Into two very deep points; one
extending down the front and tha other
down the bock of the hip. These in
sertions make the dress fit well at the
' top, and the points are flnTehed half
way Jown tha skirt with silk tassels.
Am may be understood, guipure and
other heavy lacea may be effectively
employed in piaoe of Irish crochet. .
- Acrosa the front snd back cf tha
wale? a wide silk girdle is art between
the alls panels of lace.
The slkrt la long lit front and has a round
train. In the back of the bodice trans
parent laee forma a V. from collar to
girdle, outlined at the top by the over
' Ui'pint panela vt heavyv and transpar-.
out Inres. . . . , i
. , atedlunvsiaed puffed sleeves are of
- - ' .. .-! : . .. . I , .
'' ' '' ' '' ArVQ I,' ka.
,
.
r
:"!:
point lace with application of sprays
of forget-me-nots In the same lace. A
euff of princess over Irish lsce has a
. ...... - - ...
Aip the back of the sleeve, and the same
heavy lace forms the under part of the
cu"-
Aa msy be noticed, the sleeves are
longer than sleeve of evening gowns
have hitherto been made, being on the
order of three-quarter length sleeves.
One of the Innovations of the aeaeon
will be gowns of half decolletage at tha
e.ll'l.TV"r I II i Is I I ? jS V a I 111 I T ! Ji l. mi. llltr ' - fir -.. 1H HHfl. m smaawr- n .u 1U .1 . . u- mr-mmW - it
hortf show-in the evening, at the then- ion, which shows to advantage lta elabo
tie and at -restaurant dinners All one rstlofi. ths surplice coming down -In u
need do to this gown to convert it Into
half decolletage 1 to make the stock
ami top nr the chemisette separata, so
that it can be removed at wUfc
TW-- . " --"7? U - U WFfl AM s 7,-rgr. V C J
Ve 1
ay that the laoe which trims It must.
De oyeoj to mnicn ina color ox tne gown.
A gown to be worn- at the hora
ahow in tha evening and which would'
grace a boa at the opera la the grace-
ful and beautiful costume shown In
figure D. .
While this is mads with skirt snd
bodloe. It maintain arlnr ess"" Urtei "introtorsttiat bmromr-' you "and which
the soft merglng-of the outline of the may be ' made in exactly this
bodice Into that of the skirt. Ths dress style with passementerie of, hand-made
alno emphsslzes tha advent of bodices decorative designs of some' Inexpen-
which fit cloeely to the figure and are elve character. Bowknnta - and rosea
built upon clinging and not loose -Un- made of shirred strips of silk and velvet
Inrs. are inexpensive trimmings, and there is
Flesh pink velvet Is the material used a fad for trimming gowns with ths ef-
In the vnwn shown In flnra TV It ttf fectlVA hanfnea Unrt, A ntoirtetta leca
long aii arounn ana irmnea in tne oaca
,n(1 )a smbelllshed with a large design
ot fieur-de lys In ,silk brocade upon
velvet gown. This design is repeated
over ths entire fabric of the skirt and
bodice. No other trimmings break ths
flowing lines of the 'full gathered skirt,
which Is finished st the bottom with
a blind facing.
The bodice le made In surplice fash-
pointed front and to ths waist Una In
the back, poth decolletage and Snrpllce
eore are hordereu witn cninomue fur.
Ibis fur, by tlie way, can be ao skill-
7 va 5ASS5rWm. F
&gaaaSv-7 - :
ur
fully Imitated that one, can rarely tell caught in close pin tucks that gtve a
without careful examination the , real Blender waist line to the gown and In
from the Imitation. . - '.' aure Its fitting well to the figure.
Chinchilla also forms a band that con-' Tha top of tha bodice, ia of point
flnea a lace cuff In the, ton of sleeves, lace, without atock or collar. Upon the
Below this puff are two Seep flounces
x w nuvvv unuuier pun ghukiii to
lace cuff. Tha decollette la bordered
Jy a lace ruffle.
Plenty of women will sigh: "I'een'f
' get a flesh-pink velvet gown enriched aa
this one is!" True. But think of all tha
soft materials you can get In
oesigna wnmn many women can quioxiy
make. This paper gave a lesson on
making Marie 'Antoinette laee not long
ago. . 1 '
Chenille embrolderiee, too, are quickly
worked and are among' this season's
fashionable trimmings.
Figure C Is another of the attractive
gowns which one will aee at the horuo
show. Elaborately ss it Is built and
garnished, the stress still maintains an
air of simple elegance which helps -to
make . It stilt mors admirable. This -
drees Is of black chiffon made up over
a white taffeta allp. built In prlnoese
style. At
the waist the chiffon U
V D A Striking; Oown cf Pink Vel
vet With Brocaded Decorations," a .
Bodice Trimming anilce.f
lace ths bodies comes up In deep Van
uy.m points outlined . wim pnnuv
panna velvet. On each side the bodice
front an additional band of velvet
from the" shoulder "forms anblong
frame. Inside of which Is outlined an
elaborate design In sequins. Ths top
ne tha Bnin i front or tha bodloa la
decorated with a large Jet ornament and
th bottom of the. points on the aides
mr9 finished with ornaments and pen-
ds,nts formed of sequins,
Quite a charming decorative design Is
carried out in the aleeva. Its upper por-
tlon Is adorned with acanthua leaves
and foliage designs wrought with ae-
..u , ..WAiiiak.ji tiK tit
white lace, the whole forming a very
rich effect, which Is heightened by the
solid rowe of sedulns around ths middle
of the sleeve. Thlls puffed above a
deep euff of ipenrte velvet, decorated
with a lace Inset, and handsome Jet or-
naments. A Jet butterfly enriches the
back of the bodice below the point of
Ita lace rexe and Jet pendants complete
the back at the waist line.
From the pin tucks in Its top ths
skirt falls full.- It has around Its hot
lorn edge a broad hand of chiffon vet
"vet, above which glitters a narrow band
f Irregular en til no, formed or sequins.
This Irregularity ef Outline upon the
ppar ede to due ta'the partem af a
"bl. Jraoemi"' Oes!fn carried "out "In
band of panna velvet Intermingled with
handsome embroideries rn sequins ehow-
. na foliate patterns.
. Xhla aowayuaaeeta -Itaelf h oolora,
- auoh as oopper tlnta, bluea, areena, rada
and yeilews. . Where one eould not af
ford to have ail the handwork la se-
' quins done, ready-made sequlned net
. and passementerie dealsna mltht.be em
ployed. Of course, nothing ever takes
the place 'of orltlnal daaltna In hand
ambroldertea. , '
-To convert this atrlktnt twn into
' en for evening wear where full dress
Is necessary, one has only to out down
the neck and abbreviate tha sleeves.
A oharmlnt example of tha modified
empire gown la shown In figure B. It
haa an empire front, which yet follows
tha lines of tha figure, while the back
lias a jacket fintah, .
- This gown Is a good example of aa
afternoon gown for tha horse show.' It
may be made of valvet,- velveteen" or
cloth, and, If Intended for other uses
and occasions, lighter weights of ma
terials mar . be made up In - tha aama
manner. . ':,. v.-
- Jn" thlaaaerriieatarlBia mwka
eolored cloth, trimmed vita tinsel braid
and lace, . ' -
The bolero Jacket front of tha gown
la pointed In tha neck and worn without
a stock. This Jacket baa a scalloped
aoUar, trimmed with rows Of gold braid
and little buttons. Tha collar ends In
a point above a decorative dealgn of
tha material, out out In little straps
edged with gold braid, and with an em
broidered, figure In tha end of each
strap, two ftgurea alternating In tha
dealgn. Silk rings are aet on aaob edge
of this deo orated front panel, - whloh
opsna ovsr a vest, which falls below. In
two overlapping and . elaborate front
panela, ' ' ; '
- The little vest top haa an adga of
point laoe ruffling above a silver band.
Overlapping tha allver fold la tha edge
of tha heavy laoe vest. The laee panel
of the Vest are heavy In quality and rloh
In effect, and are laid upon chiffon, sil
ver edging In points finishes tha scal
lop with which each termlnatee. They
hang directly over the seam Of tha-front
af the skirt. - ? " "-
A striking feature of tha bolero jacket
la tha outer sleeve, which forma part of
tha Jacket and haa no dividing Una from
It Bsven small tucks begin under tha
collar and extend along tha ahoutder
Into the top af tha aleeva at tha shoulder
line. This upper, sleeve hangs over a
puff of point laoe which, la turn, dlsap
paara -beneath an upturned raffle of
sloth which la tacked to tha lace. A' out f
and wrlat ruffle of point laoe finish this
quite elaborate aleeva. Tha cuff la dee
orated with medallions of cloth and vel
vet embroidered by hand, and which
form an unusual decoration upon laoe.
Three large tucks begin under tha
front panel af tha . bolero Jacket and
alope around toward tha back.. reaching
tha waist Una on tha hip and terminat
ing in polnta on each aide of tha back.
At the top of the back thre are rows
af pin tucka eroaalng from shoulder to
shoulder below tha collar. These term
in. t. in tha tors of tha sleeves and are
a eontinuation of tha group along tha
shoulder. There la a seam oown iui
"middls of the jaekeV back with a pleat
from the waist Una on aaob side af it
Double box pleats form short, square
oat Ulla, which, upon 'the walat Una,
are deooratad with medallions and but-
tona. JOSE FA Wiusui ubboiui. i
From the New York Tiroes.
S IDNET WEBB has contributed to
the London Times an, Interesting
and striking article, half a pago
, of that Journal In length,, upon
the progress of "race suicide" la the
British. Islands, Several questions
have been raised about tha progressive
dimrnutton of the - birth rate, Some
have maintained that It Implied physical
degeneration on the part of the British
people. This contention la referred to
In Mr. Webb's title, "Physical Degeneracy
or Race 8ulclde." ' Others have main
tained that It la due to the "urbanisa
tion'' of the - population, a movement
noticeable In ' all tha .more advanced
countries, TparttcuTarf?"In01udlng our
own. By a rehandllng of the statlstlos
of the -"crude birth -rate" -whloh- seems
entirely disinterested and fair, Mrs.
Webb ellmlnatee these two explanations
and several otnara. The reeutt of hie
researches be recapltulatea In , seven
propositions, vln
1. Tha deoline la the birth rata te not
merely the result of an alteration In the
agea of the population, or In the num
ber and proportion of married women,
or In the agea of these. .
To establish! this proposition Mr.
Webb adduces the researcbea of other
statisticians who have Inquired Into
the remarkable decrease of the "Crude
birth rate" ef the t United Kingdom,
from 1171 to 101, from I. lit In 10.00
In the former year to l,Tt In the lat
ter. "That Is- to say," adds Mr. Wsbb,
"if the fertility of married women of
equivalent ages had remained the asms
in 1901 as inmi there would have
been born t ill babiee per 10,000 In
stead of I.7I0, or Just about tl per Cent
more, equal In the whole of England
and Wales to eome thing lke JO0.000
mora than actually saw the light. Why
were these 200,000 babies not bornf
I. The decline In the birth rate is not
confined "tajtha townsr-nor-aev-far-aa
England and Wales ars'coOcrnd,"lrlt
appreciably, If any, greater than It Is
in the' rural districts.
The proof of this looke conclusive.
London fell off ! per cent, and three
manufacturing towns by an avvrage of
tl per cent, owing to special causes
afterward dealt with. But four rural
counties fell oft an average of 1h per
cent. Meanwhile, the birth rate of all
Ireland rose I per cent, the birth rate
of Dublin-rose t per aent.- So-much for
"urbanisation."
I. The decline In the birtb rate 4s ex
ceptionally marked where the Incon
venience of. having ehlldren le espe
cially felt. - - --
The three manufacturing towns men
tloned under the preceding head are
towna In whloh there le enTmusually
large proportion- of married worgen
working In the factories, snd four
weeks' absence from work after child
birth te enjoined by the factory act.
4, The decline in the birth Tate ap
peare to be specially marked in places
inhabited by the servant-keeping class.
The statistics adduced In support of
this proposition are very curious and
apparently conclusive, but they would
say little to American readers who are
not aware of the social peculiarities ef
the places from which ttiey era drawn.
I. The decline tn the bfrtb rate ap
pears to be muoh greater in those sec
tions of the population which - give
proofs of thrift - and foresight than
among the population ' at large. , '
The -evidence for thla Is not of of
ficial statist toe, -It la from the statia-
Race Suicide in
Great-Britain
Royal Ring
Romances
DTO AUtolfBO of Bpala ta ths poa
I T aessor of a ling of strange and -'
,UXa wesoma history. It wsa pre--
-eented- by Sla 'predeoeeaor an4"
namesake. Alfonso XU, to his oonaort. ' -Queen
Mercedes, who died within a
month afterward. Ska tha funeral b4 - - -taken
plaoa the king beatowed tha rug
e hie elater. Marts, and aba waa deal
In a few days. - . . . . . v , ,.
-; The fatal .etrolet then ' eommg agara -Into
his possession, he presented it ta V .
bis sister-in-law. Princess Christina who ' ,
only survived .for three months; There
upon the king resolved to wear the ring '.
nimaeii, ana in a snort time be, too,
had passed away. Tha queen regent waa . "
not disposed to run any risk, and aha
refused ta aooept auoh a deadly posses- -slon.
Instead, aba had it attached to
a golden chain, whloh aha bung around
the neok of the statue af the Virgin ot
Aimuaena -oi jaaana.
Spaniards believe thla rtsg ta be ooe- ''"
aessed af mysUe powers by whloh un- fc
worthy wearers of It are alala . To
worthy eoverelgn they claim It will
assure prosperity and a. long. Ufa, and
to . lta uaglo innueooe they attribute
the young hint's esoapo from lniurr In " ;
the aomb explosion en his wedding day. ; M
He waa-saiU to have been seen pray-
tnr ta -tita virgin 'ontheevef-bir"
marriage, aaa rurtner that before taav
tng tha cathedral he reverently Brassed
ths ring to his lips.
There la another and more pleasing ring .
romance associated with tha royal fam
ily of Spain. One of the proudest pos
sessions of the present king's nurse la
a gold ring la whloh Is est the first tooth '
lost by hi majesty whsn a boy. The '
ring bears tha Inscription, "My tooth.
To my Nurse, Alfonao XlH"
The eaar of all tha Russian baa a ring y
which he believes It is necessary be
should always have about him. In lta ,
absence he will not move a step from
the palace. The ring eon tains what la
supposed to be a small place of the erosa "
on whloh the Savior waa eraolned. - The
fact- that when he ' waa - assassinated '
Caar Nicholas' grandfather bad not the ' )
precious ring with him enormonsly
strengthsned the belief in Ite proieotive
virtues. . . . - -
The Oerman emperor baa a ring which .
he wears at all times and. ragarde as r;
his own peculiar talisman, , though few '
are aware of the fact. .,
. An absurd, though not earloos, hletory
Is told of this ring. It is to the ef
fect that la tha days af Elector John of ;
Brandenburg a toad entered that wot- ' :
thy'a room one night and placed a atone''
en the bed I It then disappeared, and '
ever since the atone, which haa n real : r
vaiqa, haa been treasured aa one of the
moat precious possessions oX the bouse
of Hohensotlern. By the father . of
Frederick the Oreet It waa aet In a ''
rtng, which since -that time haa always
adorned tha finger af tha. head of the ' m
family. ' -. - : t ;.,
The lata ameer af Afghanistan was an-
ether potentate who put faith In a ring.
He Invariably wore thla potent charm
against tha plot tings af "his enemies; and
although no waa more orten reportsa
dead than any ether monarch of hie
day, this ring, aeeordlng ta his awn ba
llet enabled him to live a great deal
longer than he would have dene without ..
It
Napoleon t waa, It possible, mora- of a
fatalist than even the Impressionable
turk, yet, strange to say, be wore a '
couple- e Tints to which he aaortbed
mysterious powers. . In eouree of time
both thesa rings earns Into the posses-'
slon of Napoleon III, who wore them '
constantly down te the time ef his death. "'
It waa then proposed that they should be
removed from hie anger, but for eome '
reason or other bio eon, the late prince
Imperial, refused to accept them, '
. The ring were therefore Interred with f
the remains at Chlslehurst, though the ;
prince's decision did not commend Itself -
-ty-tge retyere rf"tha"deoeseeo;
On the contrary, they strongly dissented
from It, and- expressed the belief that
for his discarding of the lings be would
come to an untimely end.' : ' . , -
-It Is about-17 years slnoa tha- prlnee
Imperial was killed by the Zulus, soon
after hie arrival at the aeat of war to
fight for the country that bad befriended
his parents and provided them with a i
home, . ' h
- What jcould ,be .mora'Tomantld ' than "1,
tha history . of the famous Coronation s
rlngt : Aocordlng te the story, It waa
originally aa ordinary royal- ring which
waa beatowed by Edward the Confessor I
on aa aged mendicant in the. street, who ' I
begged alma to help htm an hie Journey I
to Jsrusalem, - i
On the begrar-a arrival In tha Holy ,1
City: the story of the ring somehow came a
to the knowledge, of St. John the Divine,
who blesssd the -circlet and bade the,
wanderer return It to his sovereign. This
he accordingly did through two English
pilgrims who Were returning from a
visit to the holy land. The ring was
afterward carefully preserved at the
oonfeeeor'a shrine at Westminster and
the story waa painted on glass, whloh
waa fixed In a window af tha south aisle
of the venerable abbey.
tlea of provident and benefit societies,
numbering near 100,000. - The falling off ,
of tha birth.-rate la theee ia over 0 per
cent 'it".'
. The decline la the . birtb rate ta
due to aome new cause which waa not
appreciably operative (0 years ago.
i. The proof of this la to be found in
tha elimination of the special causes
whloh have been assigned for tha de
cline and In the steady progresslveness
of the decline' Itself. ..And this leada .
straight to: f -.
7. The decline of the birth -rate la
principally, If not. altogether, due to
the result of !ellberate, volition In the
regulation c the marriage atate. .
Apart from the general considerations
already adduced, the proof .af thla ia -Ina
the-faot that 1 the " birth rale among.
Roman Catholtoe, to whom the church
forbids any regulation of the marriage
etate, not only In Ireland, but in the
Catholic atrongholda In England, doea
not partake In the general decline. In
other worda, the decline la the result of
deliberate "race suicide.'' ,
" This state of things, aa atudenta of
political economy know, was thst de- '
slderated by Malthua for all economic
U1S..J-- An enthualeetlo , Mai t huslan,
quoted by Mr. Webb, not long ago ex
claimed: "If the devastating torrent of
children coutd be arrested for a few .
yeara It would bring untold relief." - It
haa been arrested in England as well aa
hare. There le no doubt about that.
And the Jcya of the Melthualen paradise
aught ta begin to be realised. At any.
rate, the tendency to race aulotde thus
shown to exist on tha part of the moat
advanced nations of the world, together
with the undiminished "torrent of chil
dren" on the part ef tha nations less
advanced, must give rise to eome not
altogether optimistical speculation
upon the future of the human race. "
Bleeee4 Bags I .' ,
I am a cynic, yet how dear " . , ,
To me Is life's delicious flavor!
For It is now the time of year
Whsn breexes get the wintry savor
The time v when,, needing olothes, ooe
, . -" ' drags .- j - :
Ilia wardrobe out perhaps to "hock",
, It,- .' ' - - 1 .
And Oh beloved, blessed re gel .
A- fiver In that old coat pocket. ' ,