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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 18, 1906)
THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL'. PORTLAND SUNDAY MORNING. NOVEMBER 18. 1803. v , If 0 Trained Skirts, High-Waisted X lurch Bodices, Empire Effects and Three-Quarter Length-Sleeves -Are-Features ; of New j Afternoon Gownsr rs Osborn 4 Creator Of Fash I bns For TheFoshionable 9 m r . ''.', ' ls WQMcn Uf I M erica v 5 W-The Black Chiffon ' ' Calling Costume, In Princes Style. Mad Up Over an Under '. . alip of Silk or Satin ; with Detail of Sleeve. VB Th ' Cloth and .... Chiffon Creation in . Muetard Yellow, Trimmed with Braid, Velvet and Buttons ; of the Sam Color, ' 'ff .W i -If e "w C Th Gown of Brown; Henrietta v r Trimmed with Cream ' Colored" Moire, with -v Tucka and Braided Velvet Folds, and lu, Sleeve Model. - - . " . - ;.., ,: ;,,-. " 1 . .1 "' " ' ' ' t i ' . .. 'J - HI ..tit-- t f i c ' ' V 1 v ! i i i i . t. mm V its etoch collar and tuckr are of ehtf on in pin tuck, with ruffl- ef Uo oa foh eld. MM or pm iuc UWWU . th front. . - Ht lac border thl tucker on ch aid. A fntd bodic t drpd ovr br a dep -bertha, or front n4 hleld-ahpd back, whtoh form a dla tnlotiv fvatura of th dra. In front the bartha? drapery ta cut out at th ' top In- deep curv, out in m oaca It eomta ault hlh and forma a V at tha neck. Nest to th chemisette or tucker It la bordered by two velvet hands braided with eoutaoh and P ratine- in front to show cream -whit mntra between them. - -Tbdfsp'ry pfteeea over, th sholdr in two foltla and haa almost tie-fuln of a ruffl. In front, wher it nanjs square and aparently looae, although it ia tacked to th bodice undernea'th. Four lore fancy buttons trim th vel vet folds in' front. " -As th folds of tha draped piece pass over th shoulder In the back they bave a fitted center, with two ' folda down each. side, like pleat, hangtnf so as to Bive an slmost square effect to th 'tack. A pretty feature of th back la " th turnras up on each aid th back of th alrdl of th owners of the pleata. each corner belnsjt held down by ajw of small buttons. , A broad, draped girdle of henrletta has two rows of velvet around th bot tom: These si bnaWd-wttw-outoh and open In front to show th cream - colored moire between them. . Two narrow, creecent-ehaped ruffles stand upward aeross th ouuld of th sleeve .Duff, and Inside th elbows r two Inserted place of whit moire. Back of th albow a ouff arranse Bnt I finished with scallops, a but - ton fastsnlnv down each scallop. Heavy lac forma a border to this cuff, bo low whloh Is a deep euf f of chlf f oa and net Inserting, put on full and fln . lshd at th bottom with a ruffl of tranBparntlac ovr on of a heavy . variety. , ' ". : ? A plain skirt ta trained and has a nar row panel down th front outlined by three narrow pleata on each side. These , are stitched at th top to make th ' skirt set well over th hips, and from there they fall loose, mingling with the,folds of a full skirt Bias folds are so' popular and so much used In various styles of trimmings that on is always safe In .employing them, whether to f ram panels, put on ; In fancy designs or to as in th simple parallel lines or trimming with which w are all so familiar. Th bias fold saves many a trimming problem for to woman of small means, sine she Is thus enabled to save quit a good deal upon th trimmings of bar gowns. . piaphanoua gowns, too, solve th trim mlng problem . by . admitting flounces, . which may be further embellished with . ruchlngs and 1UU frills as well as with knlfa-pleatlnga, a form of trimming oi which on see a good deal. i Flounces are-not In good form on gowns of heavier material except when used ungalhered to carry out some plan of drapery pr when put on in th novel styls of sections In the front and back ' on separate lines from each other. This is on of tha freaks In dress which ths season has brought out and which looks How the Newly Rich Use Their idriey- r N West Virginia many person hav uuaamy Become well-to-do through th finding of oil on their barren: rarm land. Th affects of wealth on the newly rich ones hsv been curious, aaya th New Tork Bun. On old section hand llvree near Man. nlngton owned a little house and a very bkwi pio or ground. A firm of drillers mad th ouatomarv ' barevtn with him and planted their derrick right-alongside bis nous. X ..... , ThSv atrark ell es i. ...i. . - ---- ' j aviuvt I rich. Th wall develODed an auinnt tt : about toe barrels a day. Th old itc tlon hand's share amounted to some thing1 ilk S7.6 day. This Is not so bad for a man who had never earned . more than tl.il a day ia his life. He threw np his job on th railroad, and now he Just site en his porch day In and day out and watches th slow movements of th great wooden walking beam of th pump that la drawing for him from nature's wealth a aura esrh day totally beyond his capacity to spend. At nis urn or lire there Is little likeli hood Of his aeuuiiina nsw taatea that would make hi money of .. . ..fsrmsr ftvfnsr mi, VrtViinn th ParkersburjTTrranen of ths Balti more A Ohio, had a few acres of barren land, and he willingly allowed some prospectors ta put down a well on his . property. -A gusher waa struck, and tha farmer s share of th oil soon amounted to IJ.000, which sum all In cash was turned over to him. A dollar In eash had been an nnnaual aum for him to hav at on time, and th sudden possession of so much money filled him with a desire to spend some of It He donned hi beat suit of Jean and took the nest mornlns'a accommo dation train for Parkersburg. After wandering about that olty all day looking for a suitable Investment he nnauy paia l.90 for a finely bred bull! -There was Just about as much use nn- hls farm for a bull as there would be in the proverbial ehina shop. The sterile soil of his farm did not produce enough blades of grass to furnish ths bull with one good feed, and the farmer had u Other food fit for his purchase. wnen asaeo oy his neighbors why In the world he had made such a nas of his money, he almply replied: r - . "WelL -I had to snend the snonev some. - howl- . At ths bottom of" piece f farm land on th aid of a mountain lived a snake hunter, aa th West. Virginia mountain fanner la nicknamed. In a little log hut The dally far of this man and his family had never been anything other than the far-famed "cormbread and sow belly." In summer he west barefooted, while heavy rawhide boots covered his feet when cold weather came. Oil waa struck on his farm in such quantities - that the farmer's share promised soon to moke htm, the wealth iest man for miles around. ' Aa soon as the first installment of eash wsa pald over to him be waa seised with ths de sire to spend. - He made arrangements to pay the town a visit - Using shank's mare, his sols means' of conveyance, by the way, he took a short out scross th mountains until he reached the small railroad town that meant metropolis to him, and the very first-thing he- bought- was a -pair- of -patent leather shoes I Perhaps the- beet example of all -the- jembarrassment caused these folk by the suddsn acquisition nt wealth waa the ease ot a family of mountaineers beck in Calhoun county. The .family, con sisted of father, mother and four grown sons. Every member of the household wsa six feet tall and large and strong in proportion. . '", - Ths mother was a vigorous eld woman, almost' as powerful as any of enend. 'I tr- let Mauve and light blue can also be effectively used with green. Crepe de chines, veilings, henrlsttas, oft silks and similar soft and rather thin - materlala would all make np ef fectively in this model of gown. . For a , person going into mourning this gown could bave crape In place of lace, and crape folda or a Greek de sign In crape around th bottom. Ac cording to Its elaboration of bodice and sleeve, the model could be made up for morning, house, afternoon or even' ing wear, a deoolletag being .necessary In thejatter case, and but little aleeve "being necessary. .- Figure B Illustrates a most admira ble gown In ths popular shade of yellow which Is on the mustard tint It also ahewa an attractive method of handling B ft IS J08EFA WILSON OBBORN. COSTLY ORCHIDS VV "t.t "-Lul. ths rest Of the family, .n nrn htr . style wMch rwouI,f unreservedly com?fcllft dens, but the work of chopping all the wood as well. This lattsr duty Is not a light ask by any means. The father and hi son were good examples of the West Virginia aeng dtggers that is,, diggers of ginseng roots. Between times they would hunt with rifles iO ysars old. with barrela six feet In length and weighing from II to SO pounds, with which -all of them were dead shots; any one of the men eould easily knock out the eye of a squirrel at the ton of the highest But very little work of any kind did . they condescend to do, and year after year they spent their time thus, living In On Plant With Three Blossoms Sold for $7,000 at a London Exhibit . . A broad-shouldered, stalwart-looking young man In a blue ault, with ears fully creased trousers, stood nesr ths orchid section of the Temple flower show re cently, watching with keen, silent glancesvthe transference of the precious plants to the growers' van. The sen tinel's rpr-tic was nnmlntnkeiMe th1r old log house of on room, without : H ii" ' VERT women Is extremely paf- In bodice and girdle to give an original tlcular about tha make and qual- look to th gown. 1 Ity of her afternoon gowns, and Th afternoon gown ; presupposes a th lees moneynslis has -themor rErrtarmo" c6nvey, on about, so" that . particular en is in seeing that it follows the .skirt Is made with a th afternoon gown Is all that it should' train, snd thess trains are somswhst be, becsus In- such case It must be longer than they .have been heretofore, pressed into service for th matinee, for Hlgh-walsted bodices ars another quiet luncheons and for church wear. feature of the afternoon gown of thl Th afternoon gown Is scanned In the season, anrtr ph. what charming eonfeo full Ur of day. that brings out vivid- tlons of lso. picked out with chenille y every thread of It quality and every and embroidery, velvet chiffon aqd sm Virtus or defect in Its style.-H is a brnldsfed dress material thsy are! Such garment far more open to criticism old-world picture aa aeme of th worn than either a morning or evening gown, sn manege t make of themselves, in Neither la ss Important hlgh-walsted empire bodices snd Ulreo- The tendency of the ultra ehlc after- tolre coats that are absolutely bewitch noon gown Is to follow the lines brought Ing, snd thst convey with the aroma ol out and Idealised by Psquln Thess ars a past century the air of being quite distinctly empire aad modified empire the very lateat thing In Paris and in In build. -Hliw the empire gown, pur New Tork! . and :mple, ta manifestly unbecoming The tendency of the strictly Psquln tn the uisjnrity of women. It fallows skirt Is toward plainness. Also,- st thai th modified empire hss the greet- present, toward scantiness sround ths er vogue. Th favorite -style In this pnttom, ss Compared with other styles haa an empirei back and BtrstfeM front, of skirts that we have been snd are snd this model Is built in all "sorts of .wearing. That master In the srt of putty variations and 'gunning devices creating feminine gowns ba taken ma ture as his model. How simple snd on adorned ths stems of ths rose, ths Illy, th gorgeous TJolnsettla and the splen did hydraagealThe stems in their slen der simplicity are a foil to tha glory of tb blossoms they support And so Psquln mskes a bodies or a coat that accentuates and snhsnces, snd often supplies, every beauty In the woman who wears- It This lovely garmant seems to melt softly Into ths long, graceful sweep of the skirt. The worn sn blossoms like a flower In loveliness -and-sugget-all-the-grace of -ene.-- This is an eolectlo season, however, and a woman may wear her gowns as much trimmed or ss little adorned aa she plesses. Good tssts and good art would suggest to any sensible woman th advisability of letting her -trimmings blsnd into her gowns, enriching their erpesranos, -but not destroying -their lln. . ' , ' In the matter of plain afternoon skirts with trains, the question of a fin ish for the bottom often comes up. It Is much ths vogue to finish the bottoms ef skirts with "blind" -hems and fee. Inge, and some ef them are quietly deo orated with Wall of Troy designs worked out In ths material or In braids of ths same color aa the .gown, and very Inconspicuous In consequence. The costume shown In Fig. A Is of black chiffon snd cloth and makes up a very effective calling costume. It Is mads In princess styls. snother popular Xaaulea (or UUs season a aowo " Th top of the gown -baa neither stock nor collar. It is mad with a yoke of eight rows of lace edging Joined vertically and coming high on the neck. There is a plain narrow panel effect down the "front of the dress,- and five tucks, about 1 Inches In width, begin ning below ths yoke, on each aide of it, and falling unstitched to below ths bust From here the tucks or pleats are stitched down to below th hips, nar rowing at th waist Una In prlneess effect and falling free to the feet. Around the bottom of the skirt are nine tucks, mors than an inch apart. Ths slesvs is a puff of black chiffon finished with ruffles of lace edging above a plain cuff of lace. The top of the bodice is a very at tractive arrangement of chiffon and a light-variety of crochet lace, over .which, about the edges of th yoke and upon th tucks below It er appllquad motifs of hlaok silk and mohair In large tar-shsped flowsra. with foliage. These are elaborated with, embroidery and com down upon th bodice in polnla. This gown suggests Itself In brown, green, dark blue, puce color or violet, with color shades brought skillfully Into play, such aa browna and gold with the brown; greens, gray snd a touch of brown with the green; shsdes dT blue, into, which dull. brown may be intro duced, if one likes, with the blue; some oriental effects with the puce, and inauvss and cream color with the vie- a combination of oloth ani ohlffon a fad which la vsry popular now and quite effective. A chiffon bodice haa a stock and V shaped tucker of tucked chiffon, bor dered with braid. The bodice I mad with a amoothly fitted shield-shaped front of cloth ovsr a ohlffon btouss snd wide silk girdle. This chiffon Is cut square -across -ths bottom- and is trimmed along ths Inner elges with but tons. . It hangs like a bolero in front and has a border of velvet and an outer border of wide braid. The combination of cloth, velvet and braid la vary ef fective. ' - The top of the sleeve Is of chiffon .with an armlst of embroidery above two plain flounces of chiffon that bang above a puff ef the same. A cuff of - oloth- 1i heavily- embroidered - and has a ruffle at the top: It Is finished with a ehlffon ruffle. . A full skirt of chiffon hangs to the knees, where It Is finished with a deep flounce of cloth headed by braid. Fan sis of braid and embroidery are ar ranged upon the aids. : The embroidery upon this flounce Is .heavy and Is In dark and light mustard Bhade mingled very artistically. This gown, too, Isnds ItSelf admira bly to other, colors snd materials, and -would look well made up In all black, which is .very fashionable at present . Brown henrletta Is ths material of which the gown la fUux Q U built, t '.--...' 1 ' 2 . he wss a city plsln-elothes detective, says tne ixnaon msu. - - As the vast bank of orchids, stretch ing the whole length of the principal tent rapidly thinned, the young man drew a handkerchief across v his. brow, and with a sigh of relief murmured, "Thank goodness! It Is all over." For three days hs hsd kept guard ever t250,OOO worth of orchids, his place be ing taken during the night by other watchers. - Ingenious precautions were adopted to baffle tho dishonest enter prise of any person who might be de sirous of snatching up a small fortune lit- the hapo of a flower or two. Plants, for example, worth anything up to 10,000 guineas were purpoeely placed In the modest company of or chids closely resembling them so far aa ths untutored eye could detect, but valueless in comparison. . ' "A collection of orchids such as this Is a great anxiety to the owners," ob served Mr. Sander of St. Albans, wh doubted If he would accept 7t,000 for his own indlvtdusl exhibits. " Cases have occurred." hs addsd. "whsrs after the publication of the description of some expensive variety -of orchid the plant has been carefully picked out from the other plants snd stolen. . ' 'Throughout the lest two '- days I scarcely removed my glance -from ""the odontsgtossum cruspum Leonard per fect which I eold for over ,000. It consisted of about els flowers large, rounded, with a reddish-brown blotch bordered with white. Fortunately th buyer claimed it yesterdsy, "Orchid growers do not Insure their plants, but should an expensive speci men be stolen the owner eould recognise It years afterward. No two orohlds in th higher vsrletlss are alike; they re semble thoroughbreds la that they have 1 Sevan thousand dollars was the price paid by a visitor te the show for a spe cimen of the odontaglossum erlspum Fsarnley Pander. There were only three flowers. -This flower, which 1 worth 10 times Its weight In diamonds, had a thin whits border. Ths rest of ths petal is heavily barred and blotched with a cin namon brown, which in the sunlight assumes the hue of highly burnished copper. a , sselng tie In cash from on year'a end to the other. : . ; Then wealth came. Prospectors traced oil" until It led to the neighborhood of the old log house, and a well was driven en the place, upon the ustiU term a A gusher re sulted, and when the money for the first month's output waa placed la the hands of ths father the very first thing he and the boys thought of was that somsthlng -must be bought foy "Mother." So, after -a long consultation, they finally decided to buy her a new ax But there are a few cases of hard luck amid this good fortune.' One of these fell to the lot of soms railroad en glneets the other day. .---, . Flfrgr of the Baltimore A Ohio rail road engineers on .the fifth division, which runs through -the oil country from Orafton to Parkersburg, formed a pool, ' Into which each paid a certain sum, and than sent out a crew to pros pect for OIL ' Several wells were eunk but no oil came to the surface. It Is true thst one ot the wells developed Into a "gasser" that Is. natural gag poured forth with a roar that could be heard a mile away, wasting dally enough gaa to Illuminate a small village and at the same time furnish hsat aufflctent to do the cook ing for all Me inhabitants -a well whlehr If placed within the limits of a town, would be worth a fortune to Its owner, but down 1n that country of little value. ' Discouraged, tO of the 0 engineers dropped out of ths pool. They thought It would be too much like sending good money after bad to continue. Ths other t men resolved to give It one more trial and the very next well, finished two or three weeke age, proved to be a bonansa yielding 100 barrels a day. Plain en the Pace ef It. ' Platstatta effered la payamat'of s Mil s gold' piece which had S suspicions Hag. "irere, you've glvea air oee ef tbnse false coins that the conaterfsltera hare Jest ba arrested fur nsklng." saM th srehant. "ImpnMlble," answered Plalssntla. "It Is dated ISM; If It were false It wo aid hav beea tauai sat before this." nenrr Wattersne says that the oddest aed ml hsmoems trantposltioa of the typee that fTi-r came within bit observation was in a Nw Tnrk paper which usee tn print Its shipping sews en ue as dm pegs wim lee onitaaries, one owning a long list el respeetanla nasiM were art . forth ntxtcr the aiertse head, Xfcxoutli Hell dels XHtrdyt't ' Plak Story proas Canada. ; From the Country Osntlsmsn. I had the following etory from a Montreal gentleman, and I believe It ti be absolutely authentic. He waa fishing for a salmon In one of the streams that run Into the Gulf of St Lawrence. His friend, whe knew the river well, pointed to a - spot oa the opposite .bank where 'a salmon . ought . to He," and then crossed the stream a little hlghse up. with a deelre to have a peep over the edge ef the bank to verify hie belief, As he made hie way through some hushes on the ether side It would seem that a east wound around, hie hat got loosened. He approached tha spot and, lying prone, cautiously peered over the bank. In so doing, a fly on ths loose oast of the hat gently touched the ws tsr, when Immsdtatsly 'a salmon seised It with a rush up stream, carrying book and hat ' The eaneal eoa rout ton' nf the Harloeal Mttl TrtiUs' asandatlo, composed of manafartnrera ef ths prtnripsl allies of the eonntry, will be held ta Beeton beginning March SO. The aswv elation has nearly oonbled It SMSibershlp ilscc the eoaraatlea ef last resit ' " f. A , ' ' ' '" , . ' V '