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THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL'. PORTLAND SUNDAY MORNING. NOVEMBER 18. 1803.
; of New
rs Osborn 4
Creator Of Fash I bns
9 m r . ''.', ' ls
I M erica v
W-The Black Chiffon
' ' Calling Costume, In
Princes Style. Mad
Up Over an Under
'. . alip of Silk or Satin
; with Detail of Sleeve.
VB Th ' Cloth and
.... Chiffon Creation in
. Muetard Yellow,
Trimmed with Braid,
Velvet and Buttons
; of the Sam Color, '
'ff .W i
-If e "w
C Th Gown of
Brown; Henrietta v
r Trimmed with Cream '
Colored" Moire, with -v
Tucka and Braided
Velvet Folds, and lu,
Sleeve Model. - - .
" . - ;.., ,: ;,,-.
" 1 . .1 "' " ' ' ' t i '
. .. 'J -
t f i c
' ' V 1 v
! i i i i . t.
its etoch collar and tuckr are of ehtf
on in pin tuck, with ruffl- ef Uo
oa foh eld. MM or pm iuc UWWU
. th front. . -
Ht lac border thl tucker on
ch aid. A fntd bodic t drpd
ovr br a dep -bertha, or front n4
hleld-ahpd back, whtoh form a dla
tnlotiv fvatura of th dra. In front
the bartha? drapery ta cut out at th
' top In- deep curv, out in m oaca
It eomta ault hlh and forma a V at
tha neck. Nest to th chemisette or
tucker It la bordered by two velvet
hands braided with eoutaoh and P
ratine- in front to show cream -whit
mntra between them. -
-Tbdfsp'ry pfteeea over, th sholdr
in two foltla and haa almost tie-fuln
of a ruffl. In front, wher it nanjs
square and aparently looae, although
it ia tacked to th bodice undernea'th.
Four lore fancy buttons trim th vel
vet folds in' front. " -As
th folds of tha draped piece pass
over th shoulder In the back they bave
a fitted center, with two ' folda down
each. side, like pleat, hangtnf so as to
Bive an slmost square effect to th
'tack. A pretty feature of th back la
" th turnras up on each aid th back of
th alrdl of th owners of the pleata.
each corner belnsjt held down by ajw
of small buttons. ,
A broad, draped girdle of henrletta
has two rows of velvet around th bot
tom: These si bnaWd-wttw-outoh
and open In front to show th cream
- colored moire between them.
. Two narrow, creecent-ehaped ruffles
stand upward aeross th ouuld of th
sleeve .Duff, and Inside th elbows r
two Inserted place of whit moire.
Back of th albow a ouff arranse
Bnt I finished with scallops, a but
- ton fastsnlnv down each scallop. Heavy
lac forma a border to this cuff, bo
low whloh Is a deep euf f of chlf f oa
and net Inserting, put on full and fln
. lshd at th bottom with a ruffl of
tranBparntlac ovr on of a heavy
. variety. , ' ". : ?
A plain skirt ta trained and has a nar
row panel down th front outlined by
three narrow pleata on each side. These
, are stitched at th top to make th
' skirt set well over th hips, and from
there they fall loose, mingling with
the,folds of a full skirt
Bias folds are so' popular and so much
used In various styles of trimmings
that on is always safe In .employing
them, whether to f ram panels, put on
; In fancy designs or to as in th simple
parallel lines or trimming with which
w are all so familiar. Th bias fold
saves many a trimming problem for to
woman of small means, sine she Is
thus enabled to save quit a good deal
upon th trimmings of bar gowns.
. piaphanoua gowns, too, solve th trim
mlng problem . by . admitting flounces,
. which may be further embellished with
. ruchlngs and 1UU frills as well as with
knlfa-pleatlnga, a form of trimming oi
which on see a good deal.
i Flounces are-not In good form on
gowns of heavier material except when
used ungalhered to carry out some plan
of drapery pr when put on in th novel
styls of sections In the front and back
' on separate lines from each other. This
is on of tha freaks In dress which ths
season has brought out and which looks
How the Newly
Rich Use Their
N West Virginia many person hav
uuaamy Become well-to-do through
th finding of oil on their barren:
rarm land. Th affects of wealth
on the newly rich ones hsv been
curious, aaya th New Tork Bun.
On old section hand llvree near Man.
nlngton owned a little house and a very
bkwi pio or ground. A firm of drillers
mad th ouatomarv ' barevtn with him
and planted their derrick right-alongside
bis nous. X ..... ,
ThSv atrark ell es i. ...i.
. - ---- ' j aviuvt I
rich. Th wall develODed an auinnt tt :
about toe barrels a day. Th old itc
tlon hand's share amounted to some
thing1 ilk S7.6 day. This Is not so
bad for a man who had never earned .
more than tl.il a day ia his life.
He threw np his job on th railroad,
and now he Just site en his porch day
In and day out and watches th slow
movements of th great wooden walking
beam of th pump that la drawing for
him from nature's wealth a aura esrh
day totally beyond his capacity to spend.
At nis urn or lire there Is little likeli
hood Of his aeuuiiina nsw taatea that
would make hi money of .. .
..fsrmsr ftvfnsr mi, VrtViinn
th ParkersburjTTrranen of ths Balti
more A Ohio, had a few acres of barren
land, and he willingly allowed some
prospectors ta put down a well on his .
property. -A gusher waa struck, and tha
farmer s share of th oil soon amounted
to IJ.000, which sum all In cash was
turned over to him.
A dollar In eash had been an nnnaual
aum for him to hav at on time, and
th sudden possession of so much money
filled him with a desire to spend some
of It He donned hi beat suit of Jean
and took the nest mornlns'a accommo
dation train for Parkersburg.
After wandering about that olty all
day looking for a suitable Investment he
nnauy paia l.90 for a finely bred bull! -There
was Just about as much use nn-
hls farm for a bull as there would be in
the proverbial ehina shop. The sterile
soil of his farm did not produce enough
blades of grass to furnish ths bull with
one good feed, and the farmer had u
Other food fit for his purchase.
wnen asaeo oy his neighbors why In
the world he had made such a nas of his
money, he almply replied: r - .
"WelL -I had to snend the snonev some. -
At ths bottom of" piece f farm land
on th aid of a mountain lived a snake
hunter, aa th West. Virginia mountain
fanner la nicknamed. In a little log hut
The dally far of this man and his
family had never been anything other
than the far-famed "cormbread and sow
belly." In summer he west barefooted,
while heavy rawhide boots covered his
feet when cold weather came.
Oil waa struck on his farm in such
quantities - that the farmer's share
promised soon to moke htm, the wealth
iest man for miles around. ' Aa soon as
the first installment of eash wsa pald
over to him be waa seised with ths de
sire to spend. - He made arrangements
to pay the town a visit -
Using shank's mare, his sols means'
of conveyance, by the way, he took a
short out scross th mountains until he
reached the small railroad town that
meant metropolis to him, and the very
first-thing he- bought- was a -pair- of -patent
leather shoes I
Perhaps the- beet example of all -the-
jembarrassment caused these folk by the
suddsn acquisition nt wealth waa the
ease ot a family of mountaineers beck
in Calhoun county. The .family, con
sisted of father, mother and four grown
sons. Every member of the household
wsa six feet tall and large and strong in
proportion. . '", -
Ths mother was a vigorous eld
woman, almost' as powerful as any of
let Mauve and light blue can also be
effectively used with green.
Crepe de chines, veilings, henrlsttas,
oft silks and similar soft and rather
thin - materlala would all make np ef
fectively in this model of gown.
. For a , person going into mourning
this gown could bave crape In place
of lace, and crape folda or a Greek de
sign In crape around th bottom. Ac
cording to Its elaboration of bodice
and sleeve, the model could be made up
for morning, house, afternoon or even'
ing wear, a deoolletag being .necessary
In thejatter case, and but little aleeve
.- Figure B Illustrates a most admira
ble gown In ths popular shade of yellow
which Is on the mustard tint It also
ahewa an attractive method of handling
J08EFA WILSON OBBORN.
VV "t.t "-Lul. ths rest Of the family, .n nrn htr
. style wMch rwouI,f unreservedly com?fcllft
dens, but the work of chopping all the
wood as well. This lattsr duty Is not a
light ask by any means.
The father and hi son were good
examples of the West Virginia aeng
dtggers that is,, diggers of ginseng
roots. Between times they would hunt
with rifles iO ysars old. with barrela six
feet In length and weighing from II to
SO pounds, with which -all of them were
dead shots; any one of the men eould
easily knock out the eye of a squirrel at
the ton of the highest
But very little work of any kind did .
they condescend to do, and year after
year they spent their time thus, living In
On Plant With Three Blossoms Sold
for $7,000 at a London Exhibit .
. A broad-shouldered, stalwart-looking
young man In a blue ault, with ears fully
creased trousers, stood nesr ths orchid
section of the Temple flower show re
cently, watching with keen, silent
glancesvthe transference of the precious
plants to the growers' van. The sen
tinel's rpr-tic was nnmlntnkeiMe th1r old log house of on room, without : H
VERT women Is extremely paf- In bodice and girdle to give an original
tlcular about tha make and qual- look to th gown. 1
Ity of her afternoon gowns, and Th afternoon gown ; presupposes a
th lees moneynslis has -themor rErrtarmo" c6nvey, on about, so" that
. particular en is in seeing that it follows the .skirt Is made with a
th afternoon gown Is all that it should' train, snd thess trains are somswhst
be, becsus In- such case It must be longer than they .have been heretofore,
pressed into service for th matinee, for Hlgh-walsted bodices ars another
quiet luncheons and for church wear. feature of the afternoon gown of thl
Th afternoon gown Is scanned In the season, anrtr ph. what charming eonfeo
full Ur of day. that brings out vivid- tlons of lso. picked out with chenille
y every thread of It quality and every and embroidery, velvet chiffon aqd sm
Virtus or defect in Its style.-H is a brnldsfed dress material thsy are! Such
garment far more open to criticism old-world picture aa aeme of th worn
than either a morning or evening gown, sn manege t make of themselves, in
Neither la ss Important hlgh-walsted empire bodices snd Ulreo-
The tendency of the ultra ehlc after- tolre coats that are absolutely bewitch
noon gown Is to follow the lines brought Ing, snd thst convey with the aroma ol
out and Idealised by Psquln Thess ars a past century the air of being quite
distinctly empire aad modified empire the very lateat thing In Paris and in
In build. -Hliw the empire gown, pur New Tork! .
and :mple, ta manifestly unbecoming The tendency of the strictly Psquln
tn the uisjnrity of women. It fallows skirt Is toward plainness. Also,- st
thai th modified empire hss the greet- present, toward scantiness sround ths
er vogue. Th favorite -style In this pnttom, ss Compared with other styles
haa an empirei back and BtrstfeM front, of skirts that we have been snd are
snd this model Is built in all "sorts of .wearing. That master In the srt of
putty variations and 'gunning devices creating feminine gowns ba taken ma
ture as his model. How simple snd on
adorned ths stems of ths rose, ths Illy,
th gorgeous TJolnsettla and the splen
did hydraagealThe stems in their slen
der simplicity are a foil to tha glory of
tb blossoms they support And so
Psquln mskes a bodies or a coat that
accentuates and snhsnces, snd often
supplies, every beauty In the woman
who wears- It This lovely garmant
seems to melt softly Into ths long,
graceful sweep of the skirt. The worn
sn blossoms like a flower In loveliness
-and-sugget-all-the-grace of -ene.--
This is an eolectlo season, however,
and a woman may wear her gowns as
much trimmed or ss little adorned aa
she plesses. Good tssts and good art
would suggest to any sensible woman
th advisability of letting her -trimmings
blsnd into her gowns, enriching
their erpesranos, -but not destroying -their
lln. . ' ,
' In the matter of plain afternoon
skirts with trains, the question of a fin
ish for the bottom often comes up. It
Is much ths vogue to finish the bottoms
ef skirts with "blind" -hems and fee.
Inge, and some ef them are quietly deo
orated with Wall of Troy designs
worked out In ths material or In braids
of ths same color aa the .gown, and very
Inconspicuous In consequence.
The costume shown In Fig. A Is of
black chiffon snd cloth and makes up
a very effective calling costume. It Is
mads In princess styls. snother popular
Xaaulea (or UUs season a aowo
" Th top of the gown -baa neither
stock nor collar. It is mad with a
yoke of eight rows of lace edging Joined
vertically and coming high on the neck.
There is a plain narrow panel effect
down the "front of the dress,- and five
tucks, about 1 Inches In width, begin
ning below ths yoke, on each aide of it,
and falling unstitched to below ths bust
From here the tucks or pleats are
stitched down to below th hips, nar
rowing at th waist Una In prlneess
effect and falling free to the feet.
Around the bottom of the skirt are
nine tucks, mors than an inch apart.
Ths slesvs is a puff of black chiffon
finished with ruffles of lace edging
above a plain cuff of lace.
The top of the bodice is a very at
tractive arrangement of chiffon and a
light-variety of crochet lace, over
.which, about the edges of th yoke and
upon th tucks below It er appllquad
motifs of hlaok silk and mohair In large
tar-shsped flowsra. with foliage. These
are elaborated with, embroidery and
com down upon th bodice in polnla.
This gown suggests Itself In brown,
green, dark blue, puce color or violet,
with color shades brought skillfully Into
play, such aa browna and gold with the
brown; greens, gray snd a touch of
brown with the green; shsdes dT blue,
into, which dull. brown may be intro
duced, if one likes, with the blue; some
oriental effects with the puce, and
inauvss and cream color with the vie-
a combination of oloth ani ohlffon a
fad which la vsry popular now and quite
A chiffon bodice haa a stock and V
shaped tucker of tucked chiffon, bor
dered with braid. The bodice I mad
with a amoothly fitted shield-shaped
front of cloth ovsr a ohlffon btouss snd
wide silk girdle. This chiffon Is cut
square -across -ths bottom- and is
trimmed along ths Inner elges with but
tons. . It hangs like a bolero in front
and has a border of velvet and an outer
border of wide braid. The combination
of cloth, velvet and braid la vary ef
fective. ' -
The top of the sleeve Is of chiffon
.with an armlst of embroidery above two
plain flounces of chiffon that bang
above a puff ef the same. A cuff of
- oloth- 1i heavily- embroidered - and has
a ruffle at the top: It Is finished with
a ehlffon ruffle. .
A full skirt of chiffon hangs to the
knees, where It Is finished with a deep
flounce of cloth headed by braid. Fan
sis of braid and embroidery are ar
ranged upon the aids.
: The embroidery upon this flounce Is
.heavy and Is In dark and light mustard
Bhade mingled very artistically.
This gown, too, Isnds ItSelf admira
bly to other, colors snd materials, and
-would look well made up In all black,
which is .very fashionable at present .
Brown henrletta Is ths material of
which the gown la fUux Q U built,
t '.--...' 1 ' 2 .
he wss a city plsln-elothes detective,
says tne ixnaon msu. - -
As the vast bank of orchids, stretch
ing the whole length of the principal
tent rapidly thinned, the young man
drew a handkerchief across v his. brow,
and with a sigh of relief murmured,
"Thank goodness! It Is all over."
For three days hs hsd kept guard ever
t250,OOO worth of orchids, his place be
ing taken during the night by other
watchers. - Ingenious precautions were
adopted to baffle tho dishonest enter
prise of any person who might be de
sirous of snatching up a small fortune
lit- the hapo of a flower or two.
Plants, for example, worth anything
up to 10,000 guineas were purpoeely
placed In the modest company of or
chids closely resembling them so far aa
ths untutored eye could detect, but
valueless in comparison. . '
"A collection of orchids such as this
Is a great anxiety to the owners," ob
served Mr. Sander of St. Albans, wh
doubted If he would accept 7t,000 for
his own indlvtdusl exhibits. " Cases
have occurred." hs addsd. "whsrs after
the publication of the description of
some expensive variety -of orchid the
plant has been carefully picked out from
the other plants snd stolen. . '
'Throughout the lest two '- days I
scarcely removed my glance -from ""the
odontsgtossum cruspum Leonard per
fect which I eold for over ,000. It
consisted of about els flowers large,
rounded, with a reddish-brown blotch
bordered with white. Fortunately th
buyer claimed it yesterdsy,
"Orchid growers do not Insure their
plants, but should an expensive speci
men be stolen the owner eould recognise
It years afterward. No two orohlds in
th higher vsrletlss are alike; they re
semble thoroughbreds la that they have 1
Sevan thousand dollars was the price
paid by a visitor te the show for a spe
cimen of the odontaglossum erlspum
Fsarnley Pander. There were only three
flowers. -This flower, which 1 worth 10
times Its weight In diamonds, had a thin
whits border. Ths rest of ths petal is
heavily barred and blotched with a cin
namon brown, which in the sunlight
assumes the hue of highly burnished
copper. a ,
sselng tie In cash from on year'a end
to the other. : . ;
Then wealth came.
Prospectors traced oil" until It led to
the neighborhood of the old log house,
and a well was driven en the place,
upon the ustiU term a A gusher re
sulted, and when the money for the first
month's output waa placed la the hands
of ths father the very first thing he and
the boys thought of was that somsthlng -must
be bought foy "Mother."
So, after -a long consultation, they
finally decided to buy her a new ax
But there are a few cases of hard
luck amid this good fortune.' One of
these fell to the lot of soms railroad en
glneets the other day. .---, .
Flfrgr of the Baltimore A Ohio rail
road engineers on .the fifth division,
which runs through -the oil country
from Orafton to Parkersburg, formed a
pool, ' Into which each paid a certain
sum, and than sent out a crew to pros
pect for OIL '
Several wells were eunk but no oil
came to the surface. It Is true thst one
ot the wells developed Into a "gasser"
that Is. natural gag poured forth with a
roar that could be heard a mile away,
wasting dally enough gaa to Illuminate
a small village and at the same time
furnish hsat aufflctent to do the cook
ing for all Me inhabitants -a well whlehr
If placed within the limits of a town,
would be worth a fortune to Its owner,
but down 1n that country of little value.
' Discouraged, tO of the 0 engineers
dropped out of ths pool. They thought
It would be too much like sending good
money after bad to continue. Ths other
t men resolved to give It one more
trial and the very next well, finished
two or three weeke age, proved to be a
bonansa yielding 100 barrels a day.
Plain en the Pace ef It. '
Platstatta effered la payamat'of s Mil s
gold' piece which had S suspicions Hag. "irere,
you've glvea air oee ef tbnse false coins that
the conaterfsltera hare Jest ba arrested
fur nsklng." saM th srehant. "ImpnMlble,"
answered Plalssntla. "It Is dated ISM; If
It were false It wo aid hav beea tauai sat
nenrr Wattersne says that the oddest aed
ml hsmoems trantposltioa of the typee that
fTi-r came within bit observation was in a Nw
Tnrk paper which usee tn print Its shipping
sews en ue as dm pegs wim lee onitaaries, one
owning a long list el respeetanla nasiM were
art . forth ntxtcr the aiertse head,
Xfcxoutli Hell dels XHtrdyt't
' Plak Story proas Canada.
; From the Country Osntlsmsn.
I had the following etory from a
Montreal gentleman, and I believe It ti
be absolutely authentic. He waa fishing
for a salmon In one of the streams that
run Into the Gulf of St Lawrence. His
friend, whe knew the river well, pointed
to a - spot oa the opposite .bank where
'a salmon . ought . to He," and then
crossed the stream a little hlghse up.
with a deelre to have a peep over the
edge ef the bank to verify hie belief,
As he made hie way through some
hushes on the ether side It would seem
that a east wound around, hie hat got
loosened. He approached tha spot and,
lying prone, cautiously peered over the
bank. In so doing, a fly on ths loose
oast of the hat gently touched the ws
tsr, when Immsdtatsly 'a salmon seised
It with a rush up stream, carrying book
and hat '
The eaneal eoa rout ton' nf the Harloeal Mttl
TrtiUs' asandatlo, composed of manafartnrera
ef ths prtnripsl allies of the eonntry, will be
held ta Beeton beginning March SO. The aswv
elation has nearly oonbled It SMSibershlp ilscc
the eoaraatlea ef last resit
' " f. A , ' ' ' '" , . '