THE OXYGON SUNDAY JOURNAL; PORTLAND, SUNDAY ircniIIIIO, AUCU-T 15. IZZZ
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These Exavisitc; Coats of WMte;'VV:!j:--Vr-VVvi-
UW1V OS;J Ctc it or cj
me .Mnariesi 01 me season
Coals, too, 6! Pine Embroidery
and I Lace Very Much in Vogue
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wit& of hlelf linen eroctt thrd Rhuraatt' popU -wouli find th
almost Ilk cord and it In a rtry opn' Jacket bst for thm with a i1mv In
- pattern. --Abara tha bottom row of ro- tbla caaa tha alaatra would ba decorated
chet trimmlnr the HtUe llnerfronte are Ilka tha ret of tha aoat ana preferably
. tncKea in pin tucks up to naany an men do snort ana open.-
or laee bottons aould be ued for thla
daeoratlon where It la nat possible ta
ret the mtestnn.
abore tha ' crochet band. . Thla ' (Ires
. shape as well aa effectiveness to tha
Jacket fronts. Below tha wide crochet
band Is sewed a deep abawl point with
a border of six sin tucks, headed by
hemstltchlna and adaed with a wide lika an X
border Of open crochet lace finished with ' ''
mtie crochet rosea and- balls 'covered A Lovely Effect la Pale Brown.
Tha side of tha back Is eat la ana
piece from the bottom of the back ta tha
Tha back of thla smart little Jacket, bottom of the front. Transparent laoe
which Is shown In Figaro D, la cut up Alls tha space between tha front 'bor
In an open square abore tha waistline, der, panel and side, bains; shaped' ta lit
Iq tha middle, and this opening - la tha flaura. Tka back and back peruana
crossed -by embroidered straps put on- of Its underarm pleoea are af transpar
ent lace.. Tha aides of the front and
beck and edges of the pique out ta fit
THIS summer baa seen tha devel
opment of soma of tha daintiest
- thin wrape Imaginable. They
. era eminently becoming, very
dressy and attractive In appearance, and
with tucked linen.
Above the shawl points the' fronts,
are bordered inside tha lace edgea by a
linen band, formed of alternate hem
stitched tabs, pointed on the edges, and
puffed squares of tuoked linen,
. In the back is a wide square collar of
crochet, and In tha front lapels at linen
'that extend from the ehoulder to the
point of the V In front. These lapels
are bordered . with tabs and puffed
squares, aa along the front Where tha
collar meets the front edges it Is bor
dered with Ave lengthwise pin' tucka .
At the bottom of the back the border
White mull forms tha lining of this
coat, and this la bordered by Valen
ciennes beading, edged with a Valen
ciennes frill, which shows along tha
edges Of armhole, front and bottom.
Pink baby ribbon la run through tha
beading.:.'' '
This coat may ba made of any Color
over these portions of - the coat, are
sdged with bias folds and trimmed with
designs carried out In cords of pique
and embroidery, together with crochet
roeea and foliage formed ef lutestring
outlined by embroidery corda
- Tha front of tha armhole la ant la an
open square to give shape ta a shoulder
epaulette of pique, scalloped across the
bottom, where It bangs across -a full
to match a gown, and would oe loveiy ,hort ,ieve ef lace. - Thla sleeve haa a
in very pale brown embroidered la a narrow embroidered pique band around
deeper tint of brown, but with little th bottom, with a Valenciennes frill
difference in the shading. - on ,, agw, xh lower frill hangs
- White pique combined with tranipar- eTer a puffing of laoe sewed over a band
ant open lace are tna materials em- of chiffon, which gives It shape, and
give Just that alight additional warmth of tabs and puffs is repeated, while the Ployed in the fetching coat ahown In which Is nnlohed with another decorated
necessary; to comfort In any suddsn entire coat, Including tta ermholes and Figure E. , - , - pique band and two frills of lace.
coc1- ' collar. Is sdged with crochet roses and Each front Is cut with two square . The back of thie aoat, which Is shown
There are women who will claim that bans covered with tucked linen. This tabs at tha bottom edge, the front one in Fgure F. is of laoe, crossed at the
a thin laoe coat haa no warmth. Just combination of crochet roses and linen longer than that next to It A few lower portion by two embroidered straps,
let them try It One does not require balls makes a vsry effective edging and Inchea above these tabs two long stripe The pique side Pieces are cut In one
anything more than a slight protection , novel fringe. - are cut. up the front, one forming the place, with the strap across the bottom
against summer breeses, which seldom The aoat is without lining, except, front edge and the next a panel about of tha back. Pique aide panels end In
demand a warm wrap exoept on eol under the wide crochet In the fronts, two Inchea In width, whloh cornea ta a two tabs,- one on each aide the center
nights at the seashore or la the moun--where chiffon is sewed In to keep the point near the shoulder and Is sewed ef the back, allowing transparent laoe
Ulna r crochet In placa. to the ends of a strap that forms- a between them. The laee underarm pieces
The light summer wraps are In all While this style of coat Is very smart collar around the hack. The front bor- are crossed by three embroidered pique
lengtha and all are loose. They are ' expensive and all hand-made. It ma der, strap, panel and collar . are bor- straps, A scalloped border of , lace
made to match and to contrast with' readily be seen how a woman who can dered by a narrow bias .. fold and shows all around tha coat bottom, ex
gowns both In materials and color. Dfa- make simple crochet can get up such a - trimmed up the middle with little eept where it Is hidden by the square
Dhanous black coats are anmatlmaa . . t.iau. Vv ainaalv Hlhwiit raui mnA small fnlL. t-Ka u the hank. .
mm hl. . . - ' . 4 . m II- fT-kl. I. . ia.. a X ..4. .a V KAmA tapai
gathered for the rosea and put on la white braids are tipped by chains of
loops for ths leaves; with cord em- crochet and linen bead dangles,
brolderx for sterna tittle crochet rosea , . JOIEFA WILSON O8B0RH.
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trimmed with an edging of brown ohlf- it t...a.ir.
fon, and, generally speaking, black lace '
fftVr? much ,BU- J ,- A Llttla Coat ih Irish Linen.
laoe coats are Af trenanarant mnA .k1m
laces, rather than of Irish crochet and A Chlo little coat of Irish linen Is
similar heavv laeaa. , ft Mnn. tk. Illustrated In Figure C. It has a square
weight of a coat must be governed by "liar across tho back that follows the
me material wnicn rorms tna sown. - oamne o. n o wmi- "
The newest laee costs are made of around tha front at whloh point It ex
Valenciennes, -rechantier and comblna-- tends down ths side, concealing a seam
tlons of lace and delicate embroidery.
These are dyed to match the coloring
Of a gown Or else they are in some
harmonising shade of the dress, or con
trast with It It U particularly effec
' tlva to have the coat in a different
shade of the. same color aa that of the
and terminating in a fancy point at the
bottom. This collar end the panel
formed down the fronts are bordered
by rows ' of narrow embroidery , In
straight and wavy lines. The rest Is
embroidered In large floral patterns In
raised and flat embroidery. The panels
gown, the coat usually being prettier lr crossed over their upper portions
when of a darker tint . ' and above- the fancy points, by narrow
Both white and colored laoe eoete are embroidered straps, held In place by
worn with white gowns, and yellow lace buttons. Small geometrical patterns are
wrape are quite charming aver dresses : outlined all over the coat by ambroid
of white. . . ,. ered cord effects, some of them made by
The fad for combining lace and em- the application of aa embroidered cord,
brolderv In aoata aires aa iMnnrtnnii. which comes like soutaohe braid In
for the making of most economical and
elegant lingerie wraps. Left-over bits
of embroidery can be worked Into
width, and which may ba applied so as
to look like hand work.
The little geometrical pattern! are
nieces ef lace Which may, perhaps, be decorated wltn cnamstitcning, waion
heirlooms of ths family, maklna- tha twists In tiny circles all along the chain.
laee go farther and saving It from be- The larger patterna are crossed by par
ing cut unnecessarily.
Very smart wraps ef this chsrscter
.are frequently made ef linen appltqued
with heavy lace, while sleevelees linen
Jeckets, embroidered by hand and some-
allel bars Of linen lutestring or very
narrow tape, held down by thick stlches
of mercerised embroidery cotton, like
tiny crossing straps. This affect Is
wonderfully- new and attractlva . Tbs
times trimmed with lace, are very ehle neck is cut quite deep la front with aa
and new, . almost square effect la two points on
aome novel ana attractive styles are each side.
' A Shawl-ahaped . coat , of linen.
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abort stitching and lutestring.
crochet and fringe.
C Smart sleevelets linsn Bolero
decorated with en.bro.def, chain-
B Back view of A, showing
Bolero back. "
' D Back view of C
, E A very pretty coat of pique and
lace In cut-out designs. : '
P Back view of E.
V
re
introduced In ' the short dressy wraps
Illustrated upon this eaga One of
these ie the quaint shawl-front eoat
ahown In Figure A. The back, which
le Illustrated in Figure B, Is out like
that ef a bolero, ef linen, with very
short bolero fronts, which are cut In a
V from the ehoulder, leaving the front
ef the neck very open. Except for the
short shoulder eeam the entire back le bnd smarter than the underarm pieces
I outlined by a band ef hand-made era- with which we nre familiar, the coat
I ahef at the simple old-fashioned kind, may be brought up ta the usual height
ver an Inch In width. A decorative d- under the arm and sleeves be Inserted
alga, ever four Inches la width, is U desired. '
On the bottom the fronts are rounded
at the corners, and In slanting square
corners oa each side.
The armhole extends from ehoulder to
waist line, where the sides of the front
and back are cut in plecee not three
lnchee In width. These-are potnted at
the ends and cross like strapa
While this side arrangement Is newer
Music Hath Charms' to Sooth the
Nervous Ones a
A simple sure for the wornout and
Jaded society "hustler has been dis
covered. It Is an beur and a quarter
of soul-soothing music
No so long ago sufferers from nervous
affections had ta endure a succession
of trials and tortures ta become well.
They had te put up with all kinds ef
discomforts at continental health re
sorts, drink weird decoctions, rise and
go te bed at unaoouatomed houra If
these mesne ef euro failed, tha patient
had to stroll barefooted through the
dewy grass la the ahlvery morning,
wander np mountain eldae and give up
all the things whloh make life worth
living.
All -this haa been changed, end those
who wish for a clear head, perfect di
gestion and unfailing good spirits need
not leave London to get them. It should
be quite enough to attend the concert
of peace and rest muslo at tha Caven
dish rooms, Mortimer street, oa Thurs
day evening. The cure thue brought
about la ae pleasant aa U Is lasting,
and attendance at a series ef the con
certs will insure a long life ef health
and happlneeo. .
Tho inventor or the "reel music" ours
Is Ernest Kewlandsmlth. wha last year
gave some successful concerts of simple
music In describing the object of the
concert In a pamphlet, Mr. Newland-
smith states that it la calculated to pro
mote peace and reet In the hearts of the
audience.
"The promoters feel that ta the rush
and excitement of the London season
there must be many people who will
like to listen to a quiet program of
music freed from the conventionalities
of the ordinary concert room. -At the
average concert the program, Instead of
making One harmonious whole, la usual
ly a disconnected medley, of conflicting
emotions." '
After , announcing that the concert
wlU only last sn hour and a quarter,
Mr. Kewlandsmlth proceeds to show
how he Intends to soothe the shattered
nerves. 'It wlU begin." he says, "wltn
aa Introduction upon the piano. In the
style of an Improvisation, by Ernest
Kewlandsmlth, leading up to the ren
dering of hie new prose Idyll, entitled
"The Temple ef Love." Thie latter
work will be presented In the form of a ,
soliloquy on the part of Miss Msrle
Mansfield. Interspersed ' end illustrated
by special songs from Miss Kate
Fielder. Violin eoloe will be Introduced
by Mr. Newland smith, together with
chorales sung by the distant choir and
accompanied by harp and organ.
The peace and rest plan le logically
rounded out by the announcement that
the audience wilt not be required to ap
plaud, before the end ef the concert
" Terr Creditable.
From the Philadelphia Bulletin.
The statement le made that the
a-A a.li. l a, W . '
uuamue tenure in i
tan Franolseo since the earthquake andi
on Bmnuiina lampurvruf - to paralyse
l5V?,,aM 0 th 0,.t'' Tht onern
that failed, moreover, la described ae a '
wholesale whisker houe. te. w
statements are true the condition ta
creditable to Sea Freocleco. ,
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