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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (July 22, 1906)
THE OREGON, SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY UC.UII.'U, JULY - , .. ,,, BMqMgS B HI I I. S M - , I I BBgggSt II , S Sa M '.' ih 11 ' LtmX. eTMV. 41 aiil 1 . , . v v . . j m. w w - af a m m j m m m w m m mm m mm mr m mm - . . r - ' i ' II . i t., . . 1 n r , MM SI .M r ' MM MM-9WM II X AT AT T . 1 AT II. II MAT MF . m." W i "V..n ' - ' 5 . j- -j-. f .. i i ; iwj ,.a- . .k,.... m rr .. mm si ,r r at - a ... i v-s wia-- r , ' m r - y-sm : . v i'Mfe mm ill s. ' m . m - 1 . - m w "v t t . . r i -, " j . mt v l. - T . - . m mww mm-1 i m. V " " '. VUW-- I I IrlM V n ' V . W- . ITiiv - . .- f ' 1 - 'T -" f I aI 1 I I 1 Ml I f I T r-vCf'!- . r? i-.BI . rt . . "t. . i 1 1 . . I X I 11 JIM . .y. I m a 1 . . " " l -. r : - v i r - . , . ! . v 1 ni -v f 11 ii.-... 'ttii 1 111 1 : 1 1 rt-ji .v -X--. y j f f) , , - y f.. 4 .L'i' ' I ' ' 1 : 1 L It U' . . ..j. I -I 1 II m - I -- . II - 1 -w-- . j :.. . t t t . ' i riii' . nil ; - 1 . : i ' Linen Gowns the Thing for SuicMer NeutrarTint IJaiens for Traveling Ctowns. linen Coats Always Embroidered THH latest ery for summer is the linen gown for nearly all pur, posea. Never before has tho smart and serviceable linen mwn hail anah a voa-iia and atmeared in He? SSacv. ltd ror! il ll llJErJfiZZi v J unen gowns are made wunout iin-. Ings and Invariably cut short 8o pop- ular are they that they take ths place of gowns of other materials for travel- ln wear, even white linen gowns be- - Ins; now worn as traveling frocks, made simply, of course, and with hate, gloves and shoes suitable for traveling pur- P"11- V1 ' , t " Most fashionable for traveling, . how- over, are gowns of neutral-tinted linen, auch aa tan color. In aeveral shades; blues, grays and quiet shades of colors that appear la morning gowns In lighter Bd-.t,rtbt, ... u " .v- The linen traveling gown takes tbs place of soft silks and those thin woolen materials whloh have hitherto been the mm tne correct thing for summer traveling. ii.mii! Hi4n fA mnmar trftVAIlnf Needless to say, one of the values of ths a?.".: dneimoVJluW thTwrist andoul.;T.a.r: Ilk. a L 5 -5lJ t5??ao- t sleeve.-trapa-and -ands i!!! "JI. wliJU. Afl .i smart trimming for sporting for another trip. This gown, too, is JIl; i- fT7 1L.V JJ T!LTih.? be, and Ul tno leas neavy qualities OX. linen, the gown is cooler than silk. la- ' Reticules with linen covers to match . ,7 I' "J ,f!L. h- '.!n7nmnr of niirMs sMt Tnero are any numDer oi weignts ana 1 . irJmi,1v. or aTui in P ln old-fashioned patterna, white gown made In this fashion might to the little eoat The trimming Urmln rrt?ni ohauautv oftta an'1 nnar quail tie- of linen are fro- be of blue, pink, green, brown or any ates on each side the front which r.T,H,S .UU hitsQ?t abot X! B"".,'h. color preferred. - - clo with knotted loops over buttons . 1rl , fashion. Tfr-lm,-llnen-n-ls: b.rTSrto CeolneM of Linen, ; of foulards snd ether materials whloh -. House and morning dresses partlou requlrs tlnlnga larly are made quite prettily, and a Tht .linen gown Is praotloaDy ' aa good example of such a gown Is shown . American ereation. Just as tha dainty, petticoat la almost a distinctly AmerW oaa rarmont Women abroad do not kiM anausrhi weather In which wash- able gowns may ba worn to make It worth while to own them. Few linen gowns are seen across ths water for this reaaon. and wa are tha envy ef oar continental sisters because wa always look so eool and freah In ouf smartly- nsde wash Unena " " -7--.-- . Sbaaee at pink slue aa4 maura ool, Smartest ors are not worn for traveling purposes for two reasons first, they are apt to - booomo very soiled snd the hard laun- daring necessary to oleanss them Is apt U,JUP a"1 'coloring; next, they are 'not aufflolently quiet colors in whloh to trT1' cPt "n" dark blues are conoerned. and mauve which la merely suggested in some gray material. , , , LUnea gowns f or -. day - wear In the country, city and I at horns are of any desirable,, hue and whrts-Hg-The- fa - vorlte, aa being the most practical, .'Theao drosses are made with blouses or coats and sometimes with a very thin louso snd a coat of ths skirt material, v Blouses for llnan suits, whether mads ot thin cotton goods or linen, are usual- )y trimmed with valenolennep lace in the Mck and sleeves and (have hand em- broidery both In open and blind designs, arranged more or less 'simply over ths .rni . . . . rt- cf linen are Invariably ahort ..... 1 - ' . d v.n -hort ' eleaves .ir.ni ' whn . . - - . - made or neavy linen Tor sporting pur- poses, whan the sleeves reach nearly ts .- . .....i. . broidery aa a decoration. Heavy em- hraldarv In ralaail ilMlm ti the r.. viiHI. JImmwMm a II... ttnmtM V.a . . w. ,k. .... "nas and borders of ths eoata, or also entirely over theraT Narrow braid Is .A . oroiaery wunoui any raisea worn orner than that around the holes which ormwlt1 wlte Me season, and also to wear" r.ttvasslga.-; in nguro a. Tbs blouso flta to the-lines of tha figure but loosely, to allow of-absolute freedom of movement It bae a vnke of transparent laoe. Baby Irian, va- lenelennea and bruges are all good taoea for such a yoke. Ths yoke Is outlined by strapa of linen which cross each other In the.fronj and back and are stitched in plaea Under tbasa straps the embroidered linen of ths blouse Is utohe4 pa, Xhe znatertal kelna; halt loosely and put oiv full, but without either gathers or pleats. Ths bottom of ths blouaa la gathered to a waist- band and a round belt of leather or silk is worn over It Ths sleeves of ths gown are gathered a trifle to tha top of ths armhole and are trimmed at tha top and bottom by straps which cross, and which. Ilka the bodice straps, are trimmed with buttons In the ends. .A. -cuff of -embroidery On lhes the sleeve, which is edged with lace. t , , i A very pretty and well setting skirt js made with large box pleats at tha top which are stltohed inside their outer edges for a llttls distance below the hips to make them set properly, Around tha lower part of ths skirt two strapa are arranged to snd under the edges of each box pleat so as ts have the appearance of passing under and IS , (..- on each aide tha oenter of tha front .n are tvimmad in the oolnta with ' - " . . . . . . .. buttons. i Bhoes and stockings to match tha belt " . - m ar.D"wrm be mads T, of linen, c wttb this costume, which, may pf any but a very thin quality .-.n- ,w. might be omitted, except a bit in ths .w, and- the amhrnldarv should he ' tk. wiljw Ik. mw. Km , ma i .. .,.a. If it is desired to Introduce color hi a white linen - gown - the embroidery.- . ki, -,.w . It is qu qutta smart to combine brown yellow In all ahadea. and yellow trlm - minus with whits or black gowna In fact yaUow Is smart wherever It .may be successfully lntroduoed. ,','.',. Pretty Note Is Touch of Yellow. - An extremely smart linen sown. Uneagown, which mar ba made with or without trimming noon the skirt is Illustrated In flrura R. ' Its blouse has a daeo vofca of tuoks alUraatlng with bands of laoe. made narrow, but quite deep and out round at the bottom. It may bej made with or without, the laca stock shown In (he illustration. This yoke Is sur- rounded by a bank ef embroidered linen which buttons In front Buttons trim the straps down each alas a ambroid- sred panel in the front of the blouse snd under this panel, tha . blouee closes, avoiding the annoysnca of buttoning It in the back. The armholo Is encircled by a band of embroidery and a similar band trims the tops of the sleeves around a shaped bit of tucking, A nar- row, plain band of linen finishes tha sleeve, .which have above this band a border of embroidery headed by a group of tucks Around, wide belt .of leather Is worn over the waistband, to which tha blouse is scantily gathered, A gored circular skirt Is trimmed above its bam by straps put on la trl angles whose upper points cross. Ths ends of these triangles may or may not bo trimmed with buttons, or they may bo omitted altogether. If made of silk wool it would be pretty to have ths embroidered bands of this gown In dlf- farent contrasting eolora The buttons mleht be of black velvet with black velvet buttons In tha ends of velvet MMM a a ..n v. m1m .r - - Straps of another color. rigure j enowe wu usuwr btti oi linen gown, and one which may bo used . . ... . . . - lor . maojpurposoe, . aoowqing 19 us solor. . , ,v. ... 1. 1 i .1 wide belt or girdle, whloh most bo ths xts .11 h. w. mm,,r,A t la . . 1 . . . . . L. 1.1 . . , w - -m embroidery, with Irregular edges, as In the lnustration. The arrangement of tha . . . . . . nn aarh snda Looea short aleevea ara trimmed by a'band of embroidery upon aoh -side, turning so aa to cross the )0wer portion above a band to which tha bottom of the sleeve la gathered, Thie is concealed beneath a lingerie cull cor res ponding; to the equara lingerie col. u, whVk u worn at the neck. ' A box-pleated skirt Is made with the pleats stitched for a distance of from 11 to II Inches below tha waistband, from Which dlstanoe the pleats nang loosa Tha drsaa baa a 'band of embroidery above the hem. Thle gown may bo made with a circular aklrt or one hav- 4ng either very small box pleats or vsry large ones, or else with slds pleata Many very pretty linens come with flsaro ln eoritrasUng eoJorm. One snrh la abawa In fifum S wbi la ai jrhUe A-Box-pleatad embroidered llnan town, trimmed with linen ttx.pa. ; . . , ,. B A very nice lmen town wltb Clreu- lar-akirt and bljut-mada ott (uimpe. - ' f . : C-Smart skirt and jacket euit of dark blue linen, trirnmed with embroid- ery. ' ' , ,'. D Figured linen trimmed with bands of solid color and finished with lace. n n - n ,i n i n n - -- - - ' - i.ruwvvuvimr-i.a y-x. njyn.y.t kiiifLinehy 66wns !Alw Escape the ar ; Ground. ' : : ...... Belts Should Barely Be ol Linen, Byt o! Leather or Silk linen with a small wreath In blue the same material. in - Tha dross has ths appearance of being popularity of the Eton, and bolero coat all In one pleoe, but Is really a separate for Unan gown ...-,--blouso and skirt with a princess effect , This season linens come In muoh Tha blouso is out with a deep point la softer fabrics than over before, Tbey tha neck, above which shows a whits are never as stiff as in former years Laos gulmpe.' The left side buttons over and often thinner than we have had the right with the top of tha blouso cut them for outdoor gowns in times past in deep point on the side and tha entire - although such gowns are never mads opening and front edges bordered with of transparent linen, bine linen bias rolfla rTho shoulder taTavorta colors In linen are pink, rasp. trimmed with a similar fold, whloh ex- berry, gray, browns and - tana blues, tends down upon aaoh aide the outer greens and some mauvsa This is a part of the short open sleeve. The summer of colors, but nevertheless, ths blouse is made to fit but not tightly, white linen gown Is mors popular than and it is fulled on, rather than gathered any other kind. .' to tha waistband. The loose sleeve- . JOSEF A WILSON O8B0RN. hane-e over one of lnrva whAM fullnaaa la n 1 gathered to a blue band just below ths elbow. Blue linen bands trim ths bot tom and top of tha hem. and ths slant- ins opening Of the blouse has tha ap pearance of continuing upon the skirt by ths arrangement of a blue band which slants down one side the front of the skirt and upon ths' op of ths In the back of the blouso the shoul der straps eentlnne down the middle of the back in a deep point shaped by tha bine bias fold, above which shows the lace gulmpe. A belt of white ' Unan bor dered with blue la made with the go n, or a leather belt may ba worn with It The skirt band may ba omitted at will, and any oolor of linen used in the bands tha will correspond with that shown In the figure of the material. It la quite smart to have a linen gown of cream color with a brown flgnra In It trimmed with yellow lacs in the nock and brown banda, with bait and shoes sf browiw. A atraw-eolored bat trimmed with yellow and brown and either tan or yellow gloves would make a good finish to the eoatume, "",'"."' 'r A Summer of Many Colors. - Other colors might bo used In the same manner, only endeavoring; to use yellow lace wherever possible and yel krw or some shade of light tan or brown ? levee. Certain eolora. of course, call or gloves to match, or for some other contrast than tan or yellow. One must use taste la auoh matters, In moat eases, where simple gowns are worn, tha smart touch la given by the shoes, belt hosiery and gloves, which must inatch, X touch of the ERE 'b diamonds!" ' - This allurlny tnscription rpcared ea lone ago ai ' 1760 en a mt of aoatharn Africa, It waa not until 1(67, how aver, that Oytch farmer, finding- soma Boer children playln -with a heavy brlcht stone, had It examined and . discovered thst tt was a diamond. The reault. aays the Business Men's Magaslne, waa a mad rush to Bouthj Af rica. . Thar were so many prospectors and suolj confusion of oialma that In 17 1 -the . British government operated fhe mines under leasaa, In 111 Cecil Rhode and Barney flar- tuto htadad the famous Da Beers Con solidated' Mine company, which ama Into possession of the richest gold fields in the world, valued at tUO.000.000. In iiqs the v Baera company mined; IS9, 000,000 worth of diamonds at an aver age value of tt a earat. A Plamonds are found tsv large deposits, of lava,' or "Til ue ground," that have been forced up from the depth of the earth through vast craters In past agea. Kacn mine consists ox a large bim llke crater on the furfaee, gradually tapering downward to an unknown depth. Within, a radius of three and a half miles five of the world's leading diamond mines are located. . Many mora In the neighboring district are yet ua- The Klmberley mine Is 1.110 feat deep and the Pa Beers tTIO feat deep. Bun nlng at right angle to these shafts ere main drives extending asross the strata of blue groans at a distance of 10 to 1?0 feet apart ,,.( , V : Precloua Sarth Ezpoasd. ; " .... . . r Upon being received at the surface tha precious earth Is automatically con veyed to tha dumping ground, which consists of aoree and aersa of smooth. Lhaid ground. . Hers Jt Is spread to a depth net exceeding ,10 inohee and al lowed to remain from three to eta month according to tha rapidity with which it disintegrates. During this pa rted it is turned over occasionally by harrows drawn by stationary engines. : When finally sent to the washing ma- I chines It Is mixed with water and passed tnrougn a set or revolving screens per forated, with,' holes of different slsea it is tnen assorted hy gangs of white men, -who with a tool Ilk a trowel nick out the diamonds.' Tha remaining' earth is then examined' by natives for a tray Stones,' i - . "v. (....,,.. - ... This method of headline- tha stuff la belnf superseded by meohaaical assort- era, waicn consist of several Inclined, perforated shelves eoated with grease. All material other. tan diamonds passes from one shelf to the other. The dla-l (i)i-nae ione sues 10 ina grease. One of tha safeguards against theft Is the sngagamsnt of all emnlovaa for a period of three monthe, during which time they are kept under close guard and when not at work are confined within large compounds surrounded by several blah fenoes, the edges of which are covered with a fine net. thus are. venting anything from, being .thrown outside. :, . A central store Is located In tha com- same color In tha hat la also dealrable but not absolutely nsosssary. V' Plain atlk stockings embroidered rtth amaU figures are paitloularly smart this J"0 coiorshd. sfor lin.n Sl?'??7 oapt for house wear, when embroidered linen shoos to match the gown are very ohto.-irgualiy, ahoea'nd slippers are tnad of places from a woman's gown, ., Wh,ther i'llnen go'wr, is m'.d. with a blouso or Intended to be worn with a nother roaterlal under Its m,u Mb o1 roake" u practi- "" t hSVO COOt With SVOIT linen SUlt. x slight coolness In the weather makes the linen-OMt frst ths thing "necessary for warmth.. And attes. the1 exercise-of iennla, golf and walking, a coat proves vary ' convenient to -pre vnt one from catching old -while, resting. ' - Those little coats are 'so very easy to make. They ' usually . consist of only three .places, two fronts and a back. i, with sleeves In one piece to bo gathered n piecei in xuxt and .armnoie, They set better made : with ths fronts In two pieces on each side, sines ths fronts 'are shaped in. the soam, which extends down from the shoulder on ths slds of -the Jacket front This sean Is neces sary when one Is plump. The coat may - be trimmed with atltched straps, bands, embroidery, braid, and with suitable kinds Of laaThT s-r limriihly w with dainty lingerie collars and cuffs, "which keep tha Jackets fresh for a long . time, and which are Immensely becom- .' ing. -. , ' : ' -' Both straw and lmgerla hats are suit able to wear with Unan gowns and leath er shoes and belts are best for outdoor uses, as wall as eertaia. kinds of canvas shoe ) . Unena crush.' so that one must con sider ths least entailable atyles In whloh . to .make . up such gowns. .. Long coats crush In one wearing so that in an hour tbey look ugly, htnos, no doubt, the SOME GOOD COMES FROM EVB 'A M St ,, .;; By Ella Wheeler Wilcox. " (Oepyrlfbt, lOS, by W. B. . Hearst -.- NDEH ' aaoh seeming . evil r there "le always good,' I Id. "Out ef every dla- aster good trows, Uks plants from tha ssud." "What good can possibly coma out of the San Franolsoe horror f asked the doubter. ; And hers ara home of ths things which seem te answer ths question, 1 . Flret of all, the whole of America is brought te a sudden realisation aa never before ef tha Instability of earthly poe seaslons and the asslessness of giving all time, thought, vitality and purpose to mora aeoumulstloo of -wealth -or to "tht creation of earthly adlf Icea elflehness In these pursuits sees it self reflected In the mirror of life and shrinks from the epeetscl Oreed, lust sensuality and ertme have all been made to pause and think, as no united effort of the churches of the world eo-uld make then do. Aftd that Is good. .".. Next tha absolute unity of the tin man heart in Its impulse of sympathy and Its sense of brotherhood tn time of great universal suffering, snd tha nttsr forgetfulness of creed or class barrier have given humanity new dignity and grandeur in Its own sight and In the sight of ths universe. .Difference la aooial stations, dJXfer- Guards Always on Duty. pound, where all necessaries can be pur chased at a very reasonable cost. Th men depart for . and return to work through a long subterranean passage' leading. ' from ths compound to ths solaee.. .- . . : On tha extensive drying floors, which are encircled by a- barbed wire fence, high towers are located where guard' are posted . and from which powerful searchlights operate at night. ' Even with these, precautions ths employes art ' searched every- evening when - returning- from work, each one undressing and banging his clothes upon pegs. -The clothes are carefully examined while the laborers then proceed to an other examiner, who inspects every nart of their anatomy, , examining most close ly the Interior of cuts. - the ; armpits. rnouin, 1 xoes,; weuu:eici arterwoicB. the men return and dress. . : la spite of these rigid precautions, 10 to 16 pep cent of the diamonds mined are stolsn. Is prder to discourage the buying of stolen gems the act la con sidered far. graver than homicide, and a penalty of from five to Of teen yeara' Imprisonment Is enforced against the buyera Before being permitted to leave the compound, at the expiration of throe months, the men 'are kept in con- uii-ut-ni (or nt weeas longer ana are examined aeveral times a day, - . . Rewards' for Diamonds. . -v. - y la addition to bla wages each white man receives reward of 16 oents a earat and the. natives sis ..cents for every diamond found on 'the floors, while doubl this is paid for - atones found In the mines. It poets in the neighborhood of 60 cents per -load-to mine, deposit wash and assort this earth eight to nine-tenths of a earat being the average yield - of diamonds pe load. ; , . - - ' ; ;.... -. -A'londea syndicate nays the entire yearly output f ths South Africa mines. Tha dlantends coma o London in the rough, however, and have to be sent tn Amsterdam and Antwerp to be cut . al though most of the .large Dutch firms now bavs branch houses and expert cutter in America and do en extensive business. The Df Beers company operates aeven mines and employe 1,400 white work men and T.I00 blacks. - The floors of the mines often contain 1.000,00a. tons or blue ground at one- time. The annual output Is from '(.OOO.OftO to 1,000,000 carats, or from one to,one mmt a nti imaia par A i ,a vigiii months from the -time the. rock Is drilled and blastsd until the extracted diamond, is ready, for the assayer's ex amination. . .At present the ' largest -known dia mond Is the' great Premier diamond, found at the Premier mine, near Pre toria, South Africa, It weighs S.000 carats, or about pound ounces 1 . 1 , I. !, . , m V.m . I 11,100.000.' -.J' ,- r TO WED EARL'S HEIR. A V .1 A t..... ewuuiiii e-i-"- - -- v '' ' dor : Reld't Daughter. beantlful daughter i- of Ambaaaado Whltela -Ruld, Is erm rled to Vlsoount Acheson. elder son the Earl of. Ooafprd, was abroad night and occasioned muoh popular In tereat. No authoritative announremen could be obtalntd. says a J-ondon. xabl te tha. Worlds The ambassador's family -ana-th Ooafords bavs been close friends for Ions tlma When Mlas Raid nreded rest and - ehange of , air recently he father accepted the hospitality of'th Earl of Qosford and took her to Oos ford castle at Markethlll. County A mag-h. Ireland. ' She . remained tbler nearly--three weeks. Vlsoount. Acheaon's Ijnrther,l i th Countess of Oosfnrd, is a daughter ths "Duchess of Devonshire and" s at ter of the Dowager Duchess of Ham 111 ton, - whose dau gh ter, Lad y - Mar r Hon ilton, ths rlcheet woman In Oreat Brl sin, waa married a snort time ego ths Marquis of Graham. - Archibald Charles Montagu Brabaso Acheson Is heir to the earldom of 001 ford. Vlscounf "Is a courtesy" title", in was born In liTT and served as a He tenant In tha Second Coldstrea guards In the South African cam paid Of mt-ltOl. He was twice ald-de-cam and was wounded at ths battle of Mo der river. Ha baa three sisters, ti eldest of whom. Lady Alexandra, w4 married te Captain Frederick Willis Stanley, a son of lhsEarl of Derb last year. His only brother. Honi-PaJ lick C a, C Acheson, ts a lltutena In tha royal navy. , The earldom of Qosford came .In tha Acheson family In 1776. - The pre ent earl Is the fourth since that tim and he la besides Baron of Worllngha In England and a baronet- In Scotlan He eucoeeded in 1664 and is now years old. The Oosford home .In Lo don Is at No. II Mansfield street PoH land place, west - - - ;-- - ' rraewoal Chemistry for Olrls. From ths Pall Msll Oasette. ' In ths town of Dessau a school ths purpose of training girls In cheml try oonnected with ths sugar renni industry waa opened some time arf and has answered so well thst slmlil training schools . conneoted- with 'so faetorlea, paper works and other lndi; tries requiring - thorough laboratoi training: are now being organised. . The young ladles In question are girls of ths better stations tn Ufa all who entered as original pupils of tj first - school have passed their reed examinations so satisfactorily have found posts at once. enee In belief, difference In race th things have made life -patnrui and cords nt ln tha world, but for ths til being no one in America saama to th of any one ef them. Toe only thou la "San Francisco suffers; let us hel - And this good, great good, out of r Third, tha glerleue eeurags of the p pie of that stricken sity Is astonish! the aartn. rrevar in tns aisiory or world has it been equaled. With de( ruin ef homes, desolation and suffer untold all about, - the - people, "poor rich and high and low, ara looking ward to ths New dan Fran els 00. Tbey are aooeptlag the inevitable w a smile, and .saying, we nave dtffi work before us. but we can de it and new city Shan be greater, more beaut and- safer than tha old." : "" ' Such courage la the face of such lamlty proves hew closely akin to vtnity la man. And that, toe, ts good, very good, greatest good ef all. Still, again, the inventive mind of world will be awakened, and inspired now clsoo venea. It will epur the Inventor -to cr buildings whloh will withstand shocks ae obliterated San Francisco! . And whatever etira the mind of to now eohlevementa, which benefit; inanity, la good, very good. I And so I say, out of all evil i must grow, since the whole trend of. universe la (award final good. ' ' 'i'V" ; "' , -. '" " 1 V V
