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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (June 24, 1906)
V J " ' ' r ' 'r " ' '' !"M?IE' ORG0'W SUNDAY- -: JOURNAC, PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING. JUNE 21, 1SC3. ' , ' ' 1 produced by com. - tSS8& Vl t t I 41VI III " " .' . . : ; : r HflW .rtr--sUlI 1 Zl i t Ifc y, ' 7 'a ? I K 1L fi ,.:.. fls , Ml M J. 1, w K V l : ; , elbo Empire tyle:- C Serviceable n(J ! emart ownT ' of oft linen, em-' "broidered faTacal loped detifne and finished whh lace. HE vogue for cotton gowns Is si- tending even to evening gowns for country wear and at ths summer plsygrounds of ths -world which amuses Itself. For -dinners In the country It Is better style to hsve a simple gown made of lawiworgendle or mull to take the piece of ' ths heavier styles of materials worn all the winter. Even chiffon gowns sre not ss appropriate and delightful to" wear as ths unllned lingerie gowns cotton. The tub dresses treated of in this article are not for general uee an.l morning wear. I will give a talk later upon- the Important subject of linen " gowns which Fill taks In all ths plainer "f! sorts of tub dreasca The ones here illustrated are st once practical snd :arar." and may be msds as economt V cally as ons pleases. - ' INVALID TREES - H A' FTER an ocean voysgs ef 11,000 milss, two small orange trees , hsvs Just returned horns to southern California, where fhelr speedy restoration to health and - strength is being watched with amase merit. Purple scale is ths name by . which fruit growers of ths southwest Identify ths malady that attacked, ths two or ange trees. It is a most coJ-laglous and destructive pest1 where orange trees ars concerned snd until vsry recently s remedy was known. . . . . A search Instituted by ths state hor ticultural department of California final. ly.leo-ta ths discovery of a parasite which kills ths purple scale. The home of this paraslts is in China, hundreds ef . miles Inland, and very hard to reach, ow. Ing te the mountainous aha rector of the t country and the murderous character of '.the nxtlvsa Some of the eggs of the araslte ' were finally obtained - And shipped to this eotiatry, with the Idea of . developing and propagating sad so pro vldlng the only knewa means ef estap Tub dresses msy be mads of sny soft wssh fabrics, snd there srs Infinite vsrletles of thoss fine, sheer materials with whioh ws srs familiar. They are smart, msds either very simply or very elaborately. But even elaborately made gowns sre so constructed ss to glvs sn sir of sweet simplicity to the whole effect Trsnspsrent lacs Is a favorite trim mlng for smart tub dresses, snd bstlsts of. snd mull embroidery is snother charm ing . sad fashionable decoration. - Of course . hand embroidery excels svery other sort upon a gown, and It can be more effectively combined with lace' than ran ths spplled embroideries It is quite a feature of this season's trim mings to combine embroidery and lace. The styls of making a tub gown is optional. It should be built upon 'the lines -most becoming - te Its wsarsr,- ON A VOYAGE mlnatTng ths purple peals. But ths sggs pl SOI failed to hatch. It was found Impracticable to bring any of ths parssltss from China, no ths only thins; left to do wss to take two Invalid orange trees to China te meet ths parasites. And that is ssaotly what has been dona . - Two small trees suffering from purple scale were carefully packed and shipped from Ran Francisco to Hong Kong. From, there they were eonveyed -by river boat hundreds of miles snd thence many mors miles Inland to the home of ths psraslte. .'- .::. Tha purple scale estermlnator very quickly-swarmed on te the two imported orsngs trees snd attacked the sesle. Just as soon as twtara.sltaa. wsre firm- ly established In the trees, the tws trees wsrs repacked for shipment and brought to this country for replanting in ths heart of a district, where ths purple seals has already wrought eopsjderabls demage. . r . Ths parssltes hsvs slresdy restorsd ths tws ocean-going trees to almost per. feet condition snd. srs spreading to sthsr tree which were elmUarly. affected. whether these lines lis In princess, mod ified empire or skirt snd waist effects. Ons of the most fashionable modes of trimming lingerie gowns is to hsve de signs worksd very elaborately la em broidery snd then outline them in lace, either with Valenolennes insertion or little ruffles sswsd on, the etralght edge. Flowered orgsndles and lawns ars among ths dainty and ki:i-.!r.; weh gowns of the summer. Their own deoo- - " ration makes it unneceeasry to sdd much trimming of sny other, sort, snd with them sashes snd girdles snd belts are Inverlably plain, while plsln gowns sre embellished with ssshes or flowered silks. Belts, too, srs embroidered, but In all eases belts and shoes must match In, color, whatever ths tint of the gown msy bs. . .. , ' Quite the newest thing In colored muslin is ths gown of-plsln tint with a flowered border. very quaint ana charming effects msy be produced In thess softly oolored fabrics, snd eolor of some kind Is becoming to every woman. Vsry wlds belts with long, straight ends in ths back era of silk and satin. Sometimes an .upright row ef shirring on each side of the front sonceale the bonss which . support the belt. Thess ars smsrtly embroidered, very often In soms attractivs design thst hsrmonlses with that of the dress. - Ths dresses of the kind described here are smartest without collars. Ths necks are finished close about ths throat, or in a small, round cut, a square Dutch neck, or, for evening weer. with a do collets outline to . .the bo-e. Stocks" ars not worn encept where they' may be especially becoming to a woman and thsn they ars ef lace to harmonise with that used upon ths dresa Where .two kinds of laos sre employed In trim ming ths ' gown, mAks ths upper1 pset ef tHe yoke snd Stock f f the more trsns psrsnt quality. . 1 Plounce. Ab.olut.iy Not Flounces will net bs worn. That la final, for so many ssk me this question.' Flouncing a gown le the easiest wsy in wnicn to trim it, out women must nnd soms other wsy ,hls season, i Ths near- eat approssh te flounces ars the lacej ruffles at the bottoms Pf (owns and thoss attached flounces ef varying full ness and shspss which are really esteo sions of ths gown and not separate flounces. Tucks, folds and fancy border trimmings ars frequently edged with ruff lee, but none of thess reach the dig nity of a flounce. . , If flounces do not sppetr upon a gown thsy ars used extravagantly be neath It.- The lingerie gown requires ons or two flounces upon Its drop skirt or separats undersllp and also petti, soats flnlshsd with ths most sxqulslto flounces that needlework csn fashion and art design. Where lingerie gowns ars . msds In prlneess fashion ths fullness msy bs put In with shlrrlngs, If this styls msy be adapted to the wsarsr, otherwise fins tucks ssrvs the purpose. In either cass a flat shape around the waist msy be effected by Inserting pieces of laoa or embroidery . In Irregular forms s round the lowsr portion of -ths bodice and top of the skirt, allowing the tucks and shirring to show here and there, uch applications 'must be sswsd very strongly la pises and then the dress mslerlal msy be cut sway from under ine - appusa Pieces and the town" look very ehlo snd original in make. This Is a good wsy to offset a slender appearancs In a waist. It le also a good wsy te join a bodice and skirt and make them appear all ons piece. Wssh dresses Invariably fastsn In ths back. Ths front is so trimmed with ome special deelgn thst It ssnnet well bs broken by a line of fastening.- Of course women who cannot reach the middle buttons in ths back and have no one te fastsn their eiothee for Uhent must find some other wsy ef button ing up their gowne. They csn make panel effects In front and fasten ths dresses under the psnsla Tub dresses ars Invariably mads with out linings and Invariably short , Thsy are cool and eomfortabla to a degree and sre essentially Amerlesn. Few -ars worn abroad for the reason that women do no havs ths weather there which will permit them .to weer sheer unllne'd gowns, while our climate, on the eon- trary, demands some euoh. mode ef drees for summsr. - Women whose laundry bills never ef. and stmllsr thin silks, and' even ehlf. fona Ths nsadlework opon them, their delicacy of weave snd smartness of mass eauee them to be very expensive if purchased or made is seder, and, at the asms . Urns, enables i th 1 .elever neediewomae te wees the meet faaelnat ing of gowns by, taking the time to eew them up herself. The real work upon the gowne le the setting in of thoss irregular lines of embroidery and lacs which aire sueh an air to a frock. Ths gown shown in flgors A illus trates a most effectlva.us of simple pique bands and shirred tucks. - The aklrt has a shlrrsd top, . and soms dts tsncs below the hips greupe ef shirred tucks sltemstlng with "Plain 'Intervals and plaus bands begin. Ths first thres groups of tucks havs thres, four and live tucss rsspectiveiyr witn-aa inter- vsl of two Inches of plain material be- tween the groupa After tha group ft five shlrrsd tucks a plqus band three inchss In width is sswsd upon ths ma- terlsL This Is followed by six tfrldar shirred - tucks ebove another wider piqus nana.- seven tucss, a roiirin oi an men wiae, ronoweq py sn interval or sn Inch and a half, finish tha; skirt abovs a wlds' hem. A slight train is produced by cutting ths skirt longer st ths top ln ths back. Thla dress hsngs over a drop skirt of fins lawn finished with a plsated lsoe-edged ruffle at. the bottom. - - ". - . Plqu and IUTlqutncy. . The high eteek of the bodice msy be omitted. If one has a nice neafc. It is attached to s shallow round yoke ef lace with a deeper yoke 'gathered te It under a beading, through which ribbon is run. Ths bottom ef the yoke dts epesrs beneath a shsped ' plqus band edged with a fold and scalloped svsr the ' shoulder. In ssoh scsllop is worksd a design in brsld, with braid buttons also In ths scallops ovsr ths shoulders. A bend of plqus- around the top of the Stock eemea down the front Hi' A tab trimmed with braid buttons! The stock -is eagea witn a narrow rurus or lace. A shaped circle of plqus around ths ermhoi-j trimmed rtth" a fold and with buttons on escn lds of the top be low ths shoulder, . Ths material is gathered under a pique band that out lines the yoke, and In front two groups of shirred tacks form a Oreek trimming. Theee-tucks frame a band ef close shirring with an interval of puffing be tween the grospe. .-.; . ; Shirred bands run la parallel llnse acroae the back, where, the bodice is crossed by plqus straps which ars con tinuations of, the place which borders the laee yoke.1' Thess straps button like suspenders to ths back or the welt, snl carry sut the outline of the V shaped yoke which flnlshee the top of lbs bodice in the bask. . Puffed sleeves have two ihtrrsa tuck Fovlards-and Soft by Lingerie Gowns for Summer Wear. .... CottoirGowns Have a Tremendous Vogue Among Afford to Laypder Them;' Pombinations $ rtace :ahd !Em- broidery a Feature Vpon New Cotton Gowns; Dinner hdEvenihgft Wash Fabrics Smart jfor Wear in the Country. 'I. framing a shirred band sUghtlyi above a similar band which supports ths lower part of the aleeve, which Is of lace. This hss around It a lacs beading, run through with ribbon, above a ruffle of Valenciennes edging. Below this a similar smaller puff finishes ths slesvs below ths slbow. " : -v ' A bslt Is trlmmed with embroid ered . figures, similar to thoae worked upon ths band around the yoke. Any one can eee how easily and how , cheaply such a gown can be mada To mass it stui mors practical a little Eton cost of pique can be made, with eimple embroidery 'designs on thseuffs .snd collar and a trimming of stitched folds around ths bottom, snd fronts. A bit of .lses In neck and sleeVee will make a very useful garment ef this. It may m imsa witn any sort vasa Mono, to OCCUPATIONS ''-; t at B iB ED upon ths rsturns ef ths last census,' there srs In ths United States today mors than 1,000,000 females over IS years ef age engaged in agricultural-pursuits! but nsarly two-thirds of these are the col ored women and children at work In the cotton, tobacco and eugar plantations There art however, $00,000 engaged in trade anf transportation, and 1, 400,000 In trade and mechanical ,t pursuits, chiefly, flof course, dressmaking, mUll nsry snd sewing. Btlll, there were In 110 abeutJ.lOO fsmala ' ironworkers in foundries, fur naces and rolling mills, and l.ooo eyeter "men." or rather oyster women, and l,e0 tlnnsrs. ' Among . what mlsht ba . sailed the curiosities of ths eensus Is the record ing j)f Ml! female messenger, errand and effloe -"boys, 4,itt female bundle end cash "boys," tOI female "draymen," tit female office ""boys," 100 female "lumberman' and "raftsmen," II female longshoremen,"- It female "baggage men," add three female "brakeraen." Few people have ever seen women railroad conductors, yst thsrs are eevea; or locomotive aglneer and. firemen, pet there are 41; er streetcar conductors, of whioh there are 41., and two "motor. men." . I . -v.- . 1 If any wish the privilege ef Ming In terred by women there sre 134 such undertakers, one-third ef whom are In tha atate ef New Tork, "most of the . U -. , t l I ll-..u4..-.l. AkU wvuef H'ilt . Vi.Ml ,WHU' "SilKs Supplanted v - Those Who Can ..:: : v-j Are Particularly th. llnloc an 4g1nf of Yalenclnn Uo is of tn addad. v. riffur. B hows a sown of smbrold rsd mull msds In a fitted omplrs stria. Its stock and V-shspsd yoke sr of ' trsnspsrsnt , wsshsbls lsos. The loke Is frsmsd br the embroidered edge of a surpllos bodice, which falls over the edfe of SB empire wslst tins sad is drawn aFouna this part of the wslst -losir.' A cap 'of sesntllr milled embroidery falls over a puffed sleeve of plsln mull, finished with an elbow cuff of ambroid ey tbst has scallops tamed up on the sleeve and edsed with a laoa frill. The bodice has a softly draped effect upon a fitted lining- around the waist. V . The . almost fitted empire skirt Is 'rather' full in ths back. Its embrold ' ared design in ths lower portion comes . up hlg-h on the skirt with a scalloped edge of embroidery at ths bottom show- f ln a Isea ruffle beneath It. - Flowered muslin or any, other soft fabrio might be effectively mads up In ' this style. Figured materiel made 'up In ths styls of figure A would require no ether skirt trimming thsit the pique bends or plain colored bands of some ' Smart Coolness of Cotton Gowns. Figure C Illustrates a fetching tub dress to be mads with or without a - lacs stock. Two rows of lace form the stock which is attached te a shaped band of embroidered linen of a soft character. Below this embroidered de signs are framed In scalloped, oral me : dalllons put -on in two rows, one over lapping ths top of the Other, and form- . Ing a deep round yoke. An embrold- . ered figure trims ths plain front below this deep yoke. Uuite an elaborate . sleeve relieves ths bodies of too great elmplletty. - The sleeve Is shirred to the armhole and has shirred serds around ,N Its upper end lower portion. Between these shlrrsd cords are two rows of smboldered, scalloped medallion'' their aoalloped points meeting. A puff of lace Is attached to ths lower shirred cord. This Is finished with a lace frill above a. small fitted cuff of lace that comes ' . just below ths elbow. By shortening ' ths top of ths sleeve ths suit -may be made to eome above the elbow, should a shorter sleeve be desired. It Is newer to have the sleeve terminate above the """y prefer Fhe cuff bwlow the elbow. A simple linen skirt in this eass the Jlnen is soft and fine has a fold around the middle ef the lower portloni above and below' which embroidered scallops trim ths skirt, similar te those .npon the bodies, only wider. Ths lower row of scallops snd upon ths hem. Ths skirt msy be mads quits plain or It may be .trimmed with folds If ons does not care for the more elaborate trimming of em- Aa embroidered belt, to match the gown, er one of kid or silk should be worn. In the esss of kid the shoes should match ths belt. AU ths gowns on this pags are-smart and ars easy to make at home. JOSEFA WILSON OSBOBN. " . Time of Weed.' ' ' From the Hew Tork Tlmee. . A good many stories ars current rex gardlng that bright offspring of Rloh srd Mansfield young Gsorge Olbbs Mansfield. Perhana tha heat Is that wUhreferenaUsn occasion when Mrs Msnsfleid was obliged te Intimate to Qeorge Qlbbg that punishment must te administered to him because of a cer tain disobedience of orders. ' As Mr. Mansfield tells It the young star requested thst before ths ohsstlse ment he should be allowed to go to his room. Permission bslng granted, the youthful .member ef the household re tired for a spell. Curious as to his mo tive, ths mother cautiously followed the boy npetalrs. When shs got to ths door Of his room shs saw - Oeorge Olbbs kneeling by hie bedside, and shs heard him -says "Pear' Lord, if you ever wanted to .help a little bey In trouble, now'e your ehanca" , , , Ths chastisement of 'Oeorge Olbbs was indefinitely postponed. FOD WOMEN r .. ' California, bllnois, Kew Jersey and Massachusetts. There are also 1 womsn ssxtons. Although womsn are euppoeed to like auotlone. It must be chiefly ss buysrs, for thsrs are only-three auctioneers of that sea. . .. .- I On ths othsr hand, there are 1S fe male blacksmiths, mostly In New Tork, Pennsylvania and Missouri, end 624 female coal miners. ' While there srs 111 hrlok snd stone masons, 14 plasterers. 111 plumbers and geafltters and 141 stoneoutters,- thsrs are only two women roofers, The 1.10 female saloonkeepers evi dently either tend their own bare or prefer the other ees, for there ars only 440 woroeiv bartenders. , There are ITI female "watchmen,'' . policemen" and detectives te keep order. There are 111 female woodohoppere; most of them in the southern states, al though New Tork and Wisconsin sre not destitute bf them. There are almost as msny setresses' as actors authoresses as authors; half ss many mors musicians and muslo teaohers, and three - times , as , many school teachers Among the other trades with which women are not usually associated are II wellborere, I bollermakara, 10 wheel wrights, te lumbar ysrd employes, ship carpenters, If bootblacks, 1.120 hunters, trappers snd guides, ( pilots, ft hostlers, II coal yard laborera. It stevedores, veterinary surgeons and It saUonw ' . . , I.- (
