nan
- X ! ,. , , . .
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0
EDITED BY
HELEf HAWTHORNS
PEEK-A-BOO WAISTS ETHICS
REVIVING
THE DOLMAN
Jftfisa. '
iHSEM-7lgEMIMtNB--
u
-T--7;';7-:-r,
A COMMON-SENSE VACATION
i
i
lie nek-a.hao walat that IIUlo
frivol which brine women such
keen pleasure, naa peon assauwu.
and thla time from the pulpit of
' - .ki.h. ia it that eonareaa will
. eventually b called upon to regulal
the als of th pk--boonesa, the ehape
" of the atltch in open work stockings.
Just the aame ai It la going to do with
i the beef trust?" Has our dkipmi aw
' oii Hiii never jolts In
These obeervstlons are called forth
by the attack made on a recent nunoay
7 by Rev. Father George M. A. 8hoerner
of Rochester, Pennsylvania, wno rrom
1 lila uuliW spied two. woman In peas -a.
boo walata In hla congregation. He
.' onirrf-d the two women from the church.
- telling them to go home and take . oft
thoae "bathing suits.- adding, -rnis is
a church, not bathing house.".. - .
. The action, of the clergyman ha -.
. tabllahed a precedent Evidently hla
' remarka are to attract the attention of
' .' ' purity organlaatlona to what ha eonsld
era a threatening and growing evil. Next
'.;'. I expect we wUl bear of legislation pre
scribing th number and alaa of i the
holes In the "lingerie" walata. and no
doubt wa wlU find la stores thee regu
lation!: ' : "QlrU under 19 yeara, ro lac having
a meeh greater than ona half Inch.
"Ten to It year of age, no mean
,". greater than three eighth of an inch,
' and each mesh ahall be aeparated by at
- least three lnche of solid material.
- "Eighteen to H yearn, all material
must be solid. No open work allowed. '
- . "Twnty-flv ' to 19 yeara, no mean
- greatar than one quarter Inch. .
"Fifty and upwarde,jio regulattona
. old aaelda em II years are uot af
fected by tha law regulating atyla and
tenure of open-work ahlrt walata"
Thee rule, no doubt according to tha
' j Idea of th clergymen and his follow
- era who decry th peek-a-boo walata,
will be aaUafactory- They will surely
' want stringent meaaurea t regulat the
. ' ala of th holes In the "lingerie walata,
' : which in summer admit tha cooling
" " breese Incidentally, mind you incident
THE BOOKSHELF,
ANPREW CARNEGIE. Mart
Twain and th other leaders
of th recent agitation In fa
. vor of phonetic spelling will
he glad to bear .that they hav an ally
in England In th person of Profeeaor
W. W. 8kaat of Cambridge university,
who Is undoubtedly on of th greatest
living authorities on th English lan
guage. Up to now, th American sug
gestions regarding the reform oT spell
71nghav been subjected -to . wholesale
- ridicule In Great Britain, but possibly
soma of th writers who mad merry
over them, will conclude to change their
tune- after reading tha vigorous address
In support of th American arguments
which was delivered by Professor Bkeat
. befor a gathering of th British Acad
emy held at Burlington nous:
- Besides being professor of -Anglo-Raxon
at Cambridge, Ir- Skeat Is the
' founder and president Of th English
dialect society,, and the title of hla
work on English literature occupy
something Ilk 19 pages In the cata
log of the British Musturo library.
So it was rather striking to find him
beginning his address to th British
academy by declaring that all of what
. he called th "scientific . arguments"
were on th side of those who want to
-reform th spelling of English, and that
dense Ignorance wa th chief charao-
teriatle of those who opposed It. Ety
mology and phonetics. Professor Skeat
said were th two aclencea which th
British press. In particular, could not
' understand to be such, and he want on
to assert that th English language aa
at present spalt was full of th most
absurd contradictions, warranted neither
by history or by common sens.
- Then he proceeded to give a number
of examples of useless letters in spell
ing, and declared that th final --In
have, live, solve, adse, aw and axe
"word that he -would epell hav, llvrsolv,
ads. aw, and It wu th chief delin
quent. It had. Professor Skeat said, no
- right to Us place... It "had been Intro
duced at th end of hav at th time
when that word was spelt heue, and Ita
purpose uien was to distinguish th
otherwise undletlngulehable u and v.
Again th letter o In comfort, which
historically should be cumfort In don
key, which should be dunkey and in
" money, which should be money, was an
other unjustifiable - Innovation, called
-lt; being because In script th Nor
. mans did not Ilk an m or n to follow a
' u because of th want of legibility. .
..Professor Skeat also provided a aur-
THE CROWDING OF CHILDREN
f f.'7Hg crowding .of chlldrn with
, studies. Is ,-n that - af fecta
':--:- every mother who ha children
in th school. I hav Just re
ceived 1 a letter from a - mother
who no doubt 1 in the quandary of many-1
other parents, who are confronted with
th problem of how to keep tneir cnu
dren'a health, not to let them have a
rase of nerves," yet at the aame time
fore them with crowding, o they can
maintain their place In achool.-If any
mother ha an Idea -of how thl trouble
can be regulated I will be glad to hear
from her, for as 1 previously said. It I
a matter of vital Interest . to every
mother who consider -the wslfarer -of
her children. - .
HELEN HAWTHORNE. ...
Portland, June lt-Helen Hawthorne: ,
-T-sm-lad -tha-at Jaatsom on has
anokeir word 4 -def -- th chil.
dren. W "hav gon wad tm -education
of th school bonk sort and so are
crowding and pushing our children un
til they are nervous wreck by th
time they hav finished th high school.
Inciipahl of using that education which
has cost th greatest prloa they . could
pay their serenity and their ability to
be calm.
Th ttm has com when th parents
must choose between health and an ea
rs t Ion, for th children can not hav
both.
Of eours f know ther are many chil
dren who almply do not tackle tha tre
mendous task sat befor tbera and that
ther are others who after two term
ef high school work find that perfection
la out of th question and so drop be
hind In both conduct and studies, j
W are told that If w are t live
t)tl live w must love our Work.
Now let us play w are a pupil for on
evening and see about It Suppose there
are three studies to be learned thl even
ing and there la Juet time t learn on
tlioronshly 'IC9 PP I old-fashioned
enough, te believ that growing children
ally, afford tantalising vlewa of tha
shoulders of th wearer. Thla tantalis
ing view la only an Incident, for a way.
In of an up-to-date girl Is that "optical
illuaion la what men are affected withJ
when they try to look through a peek-a
boo walat" - .
Sine the hue and cry over openwork
"hosiery, which began with th .merest
pinpricks and ha now come to a rtmsn
no thicker than a fao veil, the matter
of our national modesty has had some
fearful shocks In woman's wear.: tier
men might have worn open-work socka
and peek-a-boo ahlrt a fill th crack of
doom and no on would have credited
Mm with mora than an Ingenious desire
to keen cool. But th vlaion of pink
plumpneaa through the hide-and-seek
arrangements which meet you on all
types of th female form divin is "a
bors of a different color." . .. - : -
. At first Ihe excursion Into th jpeek-
a-boo were as mild as th first open
work stocking. ' In the aummer of 1199
it was confined to a modest little yoke
which outlined pretty girl's neck and
rave auch fleeting gltmpaea of th In-.
terlor, decoration -that it waa naiiea as
a poeltlv Inspiration. . . -
Our descent has been .rapid! By
1991 w bad adopted graphic openwork
border - to th yoke, which left ln a
question teo flight. - Th year - 1994
found us with Va that strayed to un
accustomed - deptha - and apologised for
themselves with large blue bows on
th lingerie beneath; By 199i w had
arrived at "ianls," withislands of
modesty -between, and In the present
yar of grace w hav "air overs" an
occasional dot on th openwork -to save
the. situation. Tha. sleeves hav risen
from elbow - length - half - way-rta th
shoulder. -,
But this Is not all! . Rom genius,
doubtless to keep pec with the times,
has Introduced the openwork corset. , .
We now only want shredded lingerie
befor th faahlona of th South Sea
Island bell are accurately followed. And
If that cornea, the reformers will surely
b kept busy. , - - - . .
prlse "by ridiculing th Idea that .th
shortening of labour to labor was anl
American Innovation. Labor, he said Is
found on th 694tlt Una of "Th Pearl."
which was ' written befor ' Columbus
discovered America, and, Indeed, before
he was born. Similarly, he went on,
ther war tha best of philological, rear
ona for spelling arrive with only on r;
affair which wa - th French a'falre,
with only on f , attack as a tax, com
mence without it double m, and lamb,
limb and "plumber without- their b. In
conclusion the professor - showed by
philological science that th spelling of
language waa altered originally to con
form, with phonetic utterance and con
tended that we ought to reform and al
ter It now according to' the aame prin
ciple. Thus, he said, a raoa gradually
would spring up which would perceive
that th best spelling for a given word
was that which gave most reasonably
the found of it;
Replying to a "Young Author." Mark
Twain wrote: "Tea; Agassis does rec
ommend author to eat fish, because th
phosphorus In it make brains. So far
you arvcorrect. But I cannot help you
to a ' decision about th amount you
need to eat at least, not with certain
ty. If th specimen composition you
sent Is about your fair usual average,
I should judge that a couple of whalee
would be all you would want for th
present Not th largest kind, but sim
ply good, mlddling-alsed whalee."
Tolstoi la reported to b In excellent
health. He reads less than formerly.
but hi reading now consists of English
and American work on labor questions.
.. . " ;. ij--- -.rji- -'r --
Henrlk Ibaen. ' th great Norwegian
dramatist who died recently, ia said to
hav. found It Impossible to write un
less he had on the table In front of him
a tray containing a number of gro
tesque figures a wooden bear, a tiny
image of Mephlstophelea. two or three
eats (one playing the fiddle) and some
rabbits. : . ;.. r '
. .7 . ;..
Thomas Hardy, th novelist and poet
used to live, when he was a boy, with
an sun (-and he was sometimes called
upon to-writ -lov letters tor-- her
dairymaid to send to their sweet
hearts. In hi novels he ha made good
use of his experience In th dairy, and
hla aunt was th original of on of hi
character.
ahonld have some sleep. I do not ob
ject to one hour or two but frequently
It comes to three and then the children
have to carry to bed with them the bur
den of unfinished" lessons. I - say let
b merciful.
If these pupils were grown and they
wished to study all night the matter
would be their own lookout But so
long as w ar . responsible for their
welfare, let u see to. It thaA- we give
nature some small chance to do her
work, lyet u see to It that w do not
make it Imposelbl f or" them-jto be
strong, healthy men and women.
We ar told that American mother
should ,-4each thlrhlldren calmness,
but Just now w are to - teach them
calmness and at th sam ttm keep
them on tha rush both day and night
Is a problem that sam of us are unabla
10 solve, s a ItQTHE
Mra, John D. Rockefeller.
RS. JOHN D. ROCKEFELLER
. waa Laura Celestla Spelmaa,
daughter of a Cleveland mer
chant H- B. S pel man, whose
deeply rellgloua habits of life sre per
petuated In the Hf of hi daughter and
her children. v
Fifty year ago John D. Rockefeller,
long befor he had conceived th possi
bility of a Standard OH ' company or
dreamed of th Immense riches that
war to be his, and Mlaa B pel man war
classmates and aweethearta. Their
marriage" was a romance, a love arfalr.
and ha a remained th aame aver since.
Before her marriage, Mrs. Rockefel
ler belonged to tha Plymouth Congre
gational church, but In order to be of
the same denomination a her husband
she Joined the Euclid Avenue Baptist
church In Cleveland, , , i-
Mrs. Rockefeller' tnost marked trait
I her domesticity." Although she has
half a doaen .residences, she - counts
Cleveland her horn, and 1 never so
M
If ..7 7-VsCS J 7 W- 7
k .. . - ..-. ;.-7..7 vrr'w
;:-V,.7-'7::. 'yV!k77-7:- V ' 't
f -7 I 111 ill i (
II .Js-rarj 1 1 iim -mil h ... ,1 ,. 11 1
- T th dolman. comlngrllnto 7 vogu Lw 'fll llvJl)77tLu tJ '
again? There can be little doubt that lt ,. 7 1 ; :-.-sM - f I 11 ,-7- lf f lVlv
la, for th moat fashionable summer - I W I ill , WML !f . llVtAv,A
I i j -4...a a . . : . . M Ml It Kill 1 ' 111 I I '1' A 1 Ml I Wakt yp
The first wrap Is of th sam material - 7 ' Nf-v I ..... 1 I ... ... Ma AAV Vft f
as th dreaa It I worn jwlth. a shot ef-.'y, x , ' B I ' " 1 I ' lUV'i'l " ' AW ',
feet In brown and green taffeta. It la 7, ' '' I ' II I ' ' ' RVVTi' V -
trimmed with heavy embroidery In th '. - " ' frS- 111 1 A ; Vj
two colors and th end finished with a J''' ' aaaB Jill 1 " 1 A W Jr
deep fringe. Ther Is a vest of pale .'" . 1 7-- '. LAW ft 7 XjT "i
green 'broadcloth and rover of dark ' " " -I l- ,
brown velvet ' The button are large i -r 1 l'n r "v ,Y- ' '
crochet covered In browji. , r J j fTTTsV." 7
7 The sveond wrap-Is mor for evening ' :.L i 7J 1 r- ,
wear. ' ' " ' -.tTv ?. s. --rt-.-, ...t.jsvf!K.-yaag - . " -.-i-w-ivj.:---. .'."r.'r.-.'.'-v
It Is made of a very heavy pongee. ,
Th aiashings are opened over bands of Here art two of th very latest garments, showing the unmistak-
brown satin, with crossbar strappings of - , - - -
pongee. .. ble revival 01 the dolman type. t- r ,y,r-
It Is th dolman shape, with body and 7' - . . -''"."?U '-..''
1 alve all out In on.' -. ,', t .' 7 .' .. 4 - . ' -' ' . . . ' '
W"'S',"'"'N" "''" ' .ii. .m.iiihiii ii,..i,, m mm, ii.w.i. hw
AiSHORTJSTORY-FODASPAREMINUTE
By Arthur - E.- Suddar,
I
T waa th evening of November a,
1991. Frank Lortmer stood In
front of hi atudy fire, watching
his nrivata bonfire burn. It was
his birthday; so the bonfire celebrated
more than one event -
In hi right hand he held a bundle of
letters. There were nine, and-each let
ter bore the ssme signature "Beatrice."
Taking one letter In hla left hand, he
dropped It Into the fire. 7 The flamea
closed round It greedily;- the paper
flared and was Inatantlyreduced - to
ashes. The man watched it burn, un
moved."" "One," he counted.
He threw in another, -two,- hi bsjo.
Again he repeated It and again. "Three-
r Each letter represented a year of" hla
life. More, It was the symbol or a
year's pain and suffering.
He paused, loat In retrospect Uncon
sciously he still held the ninth letter,
while, hand In hand with memory he
trod, th path of the past Ten years
ago he had met "Beatrice." For 10
yeara her beauty had held him spell
bound. She had married for money;
till he worshiped her. Men called her
cold and heartleaa; still to her lover eh
waa th Incomparabl "Belle Dam.".:
. He read of her husband' death; Be
had read also at the widow's, gayetlea.
of her doings knd sayings and of her
lovers. AU this came to him Indirectly.
Once a year on hla birthday aha bad
aent a letter to wish- him "Many happy
return.- A mere note, but it showed
ah had riot forgotten. -
Wednesday . morning, -November .
happy as when there. The climate of
Tarrytown. ' where Is located the maa
alon "Pocantlco Hllla" doe not agree
with her, andUshe ha .been, there so
aldom that no on in th vicinity knows
ven what she look like. -
Me. and Mra Rockefeller hav had
four "children.- One "of these, the son,
John D, Jr I -almost ss wen snown
hi father, and spparoniiy lnnenis
many of hi characteristic. 'lh other
three ar girls, Beasie, Alia ana aann.
.Th Tldet of -th thre daughter of
tha oil magnate i now mr Y-'
Strong. She h been an invalid for
... r. and 1 at preeent abroad
to--Uurope seeking health at th hand
th f orenw' speciaiists 01 vv
eoantry;- John- nss oeri -q.iuta
saying that h would gladly glv 119,.
999,090 to th man who could bring th
bloom back to in.
Strong. It la eaia. nowever, iun n--r
cane la almost hopeles.-
Mr. Alta Parmle premie, secona
daughter of the Rockefeller marrld a
few months befor her brother. Her
husband 1 a Chleagoan. and at th time
of their marriage In New Tork, 1991. It
was said that she was the rlcheet bride
In the United Statea, her ahar of har
father's fortune being nair aa mucn as
tha United State gold reeerve 199,-
009.900. ,
Th third daughter 1 Mr. .Edith Me
Cormlck, who 1 much Ilk her mother
and sister In their habit of life.
.Among all who know her. either aa
friend, or through her many unprlnted
acta of greet generosity, Mrs. Rocke
feller I conceded to be the Ideal, type
of 1 Christian woman. t
. ' - 11 ! ...
The Beat stats Column of Th
Journal are latersstlnc to buyer Bad
seller, alike. . . '
MANY IttPPY RETURNS
1902. had dawned clear and U bright
Lorlmer looked for th expected letter.
It did not come. . He wa surprised
pusxled. "Ah." he told himself, "It will
come by a later poet.". It auddenly
flashed across his brain and he
laughed aloudthat he felt no disap
pointment at ' Ita non-arrival. He
realised that the letter bad become a
matter of Indifference. Ita arrival
would touch him no more, probably lea,
than the arrival of a bill. - ; ,
He knew that he no longer worshiped
her. The-veil at laat was -lifted - from
hla eyea and he saw her whom he had
Idealised aa she really was sold, , self
Centered, heartleaa It la on theae
seeming trifles that greater laaue de
pend. ,
He rejoiced In his freedom. Tonight
therefore; ha burned the symbol of his
newly lost pain. ,
The door of his room was opened so
quiet y that he did not see a woman
enter, nor waa he aware of" her pres
ence till ah touched him on the shoul
der. He wheeled round. The - ninth
letter dropped from hla hand and flut
tered to the hearth. He looked her full
In the 'face, unmoved and, for the firat
time, critically, -
- ."Frank." t Then one understood. ' Few
could resist the seduction- of that, flue-
ilke.yolce. ,
Lponmer neia out nis nana, ' how are
you? Forgive my alownese. Tour com
ing took me completely by surprise;"
He spoke courteously and moved for
ward an easy chair.
She ignored the chair and hi out
stretched hand. - ' .
REPLIES TO CORRESPONDENTS
This eolama la epea to tbe miter ef The
Tnuraal sad aa effort will be nale to innr
all reasonable aiMsttons, letters stint he
tread hT the writer's true Bane, not for sobll
ration, bat sa s caeranlee ef good faith. No
Inqntrr regarillng health or laatv wlH lw
answered In this enlumo, ss all snrh InqnlrliM
hooM be sddresaed to Mrs. MrBMS, ( care of
Ibe Sunday Journal. 1 ..
Helen Hawthorne: . Please tell me
where-1 ran find a book entitled "The
Martyr of Mtasouri." -
' AN AM IT I KEADKH.
This book 1 not In the public llhrary
In Portland. Possibly om reader of
thl column from Missouri will be
kind enough to give me the Information,
the name of the author and the pub
lisher.
H el en Hawthorne: I am In a predica
ment I am about to be married and as
the bridegroom Is It my place to buy
the flowers - for the bride and tier at
tendants? I think It I but want to be
uro. . ' JOE.
The bridegroom buy the . flowers for
the bride and bridesmaids, and alio th
buttonhole bouquets for tbe best man
and uaher. ' -- " - - - - -
" ' r. e, ' ...
" iTln Hawthorne: - How can- I get
moth out of a carpet?
. EUOENE HOUSEKEEPER
If.th moth are In the carpet ' It
must be taken up, thoroughly shaken
and praised with' a flatlron as hot as
It will bear without scorching. Then
liberally sprinkle, the floor where the
carpet Is to be- with spirits of tur-
Trankyt-sha aaln.."..!T. cmetoaur
prise you. - I csme to wish you many
nappy returns --her voice . vibrated
with feeling4" "many 1 happy retume,'
instead of writing." .
'. "Thank you for the kindly thought;
you certainly aurprlsed ma" 7.
"And I have come at laat to keep a
promise one,- ne said in a passionate
whisper," "I' made 19 years ago this
night Tou remember?" .
"Beatrice," he .replied. anxious to
pare her further pain, "Beatrice." He
remembered well how- he had extracted
a promise that W ever she grew to love
him she must eom -and tell him.
"No, Frank." let m make full confes
sion before I receive absolution." A
glorious wave of color dyed -her pal
face. "Frank, - Frank; I love you I
lov you." - And rery word was , a
caree. .1 ; . v .
She raised her ' love-lit ya confl
dently to the man standing so quietly
at ner siae. - He was silent.
: "Frank" and a not-of doubt " had
crept Into her voice.
He faced her desperately and "'ah
knew. Love bad come too lata - , -
. Her ' letter, lying white ' upon 7 the
hearth, caught her eye. Lorlmer mad
a movement to hide it but she threw It
Into the fire.' Together they watched it
burn. . ,
"Good-by," she said. - , --.-
. He tried to explain.
"Don't" ahe put out her hand
"soma j promise are sweeter Jn the
making than 1n the keeping" and she
bad gon a . ,
pen tine, pouring It into any crack there
may be between the boards. -
e -., . -. ' '
Helen Hawthorne: What kind ef a
needle is beat to uae In friending gldves?
RUTH T AM HILL, ,
Unless ar, ,uppl)ei wlth lh
ahurt little needle which com especl
ally for tha sewing of gloves, use the
long-eyed ambroldsry needles.
"raaflhbodZ
By Ella Wheeler Wilcox.
SHE
HB must b generous both In
thought and deed, -generous'
Impulae, and abov
' greed."
Not aeeklng praise, or place, or power,
... or pelf, '. .,- . , .. . .
Bo life's beat blessings -for her higher
self, ... - -
Which means the beat of alL-- ....
She must hav faith
To make good friends of Trouble, Pain
and Death,
And understand their message.
She should be ' ' . " r ' 7
A redolent of tender sympathy
As 1 a rose with fragrance.
Cheerfulness
Should be" her mantle, even tho ' her
. j, drees 1
May be of Sorrow's wearing.
On her faee , . ... t "
A loyal nature leave its seal of grace,
And chastity I In her atmosphere.
Not that chill chastity j which , seem
auster
(Lik tint rod now pks, lovely to b
..; : hold . , ,
By Carol In Prscott
I HAVE discovered a woman who has
1 solved- th problem of how . and
where to spend a aummer season
In the most profitable and aaUa
factory manner. And In doing it ahe
does not stir aa Inch from her doorstep,
sither. ..1
When I saked her where "ahe was go
ing to spend the summer this -year, ahe
answered, "Right here at home." Then
she went on:. "Why should I pack all
my pretty oloth.es in a trunk, bid' good
bye to all my friend, and take a long,
hot railroad trip to some resort filled
with people whom I do not know, and
whomr"perhapg.'"!t 1-bs:
aieap It a atuffy room on a hard bed.
when I have my own comfortable room
right here?" No, I am going to take
my vacation In my home, where L ean
do as I please.". ;- - - - . . . , . ,
1 11 wager.- too, that this woman will
enjoy her- vacation: "'And now that sum
mer 1 here, why ahouldn't all of 'us
atop being "fussy" and settle down and
enjoy the season? AU of ua havs It In
our power to make the coming summer
on that will be a pleasure to look back
upon, - Lot us begin with ourselves. We
can atop wearing "fussy" clothe. Thl
Ilk and rajahs and pongee are a
cool aa overtrlmmed organdies, mulls or
muailna - They ar cooler, too, for th
energy employed In dressing up in these
"fussy" clothes makes us hot and keeps
ua worried over their care. : Think of th
laundress who la called upon to pros
out these organdie and iawna every
,tlme they are worn! Have some pity
upon 'her. If not upon yourself. . Wear
ruaaet or canvaa ahoea they are cooler
than patent leather and try In every
way to keep cool, consequently eom
fortable7" T -v.1' ;
Than let us try keeping our homes
eooL We ran do it Begin by taking
up all arpets-and rugs and taking down
the heavy hangings, so that the little
breese there la will hav a olean aweep
through the housa Put away, all the
upholstered furniture, replacing It with
willow and prairie - grass -chairs and
settee. Put away all of your rugs, and.
If you can . afford It have th' floors
OUTDOOR
THE time of year has arrived when
outdoor social . functions are
7 muchn evldenca America ha
been slow to take up open-air
amusement, but -with th xtravaganc
that mark th nation ther is no nair
way work about lt From now on until
tha and of th season garden parties and
summer fetes will follow one another
In wift succession. '
What to wear Is quit as Important a
question at this time as It was . to
the. festival season had to be Observed
under artificial light green-house flow
ers . and manufactured heat - It was
more Important, for the glare or day
admits of no pretenee or fa lee colorings.
Olven clear, sunny skies, balmy air, full
blown leaf and flower and a smooth
greensward there can be no .better back
ground for lovely woman and beautiful
array. ' -.-.,.
Perhaps the most Important part of a
garden 4arty costume la tha hat and
one lends 4teelf so- readily to the neces
sary demands a the leghorn. While
thla fine straw In its natural color la
much 1 used the dyed leghorn Is thl
aummer the most popular. - The small
bats of the aprlng are largely aet aside.
except for traveling.
nd particularly the "bendable" kind are
much In demand." ". " ttt
On of these chsrmlnr models waa a
targe leghorn dyed paatel blue. Jt waa
raised on a moderately high bandeau
and filled at the back with a cloud of
brown mallne. Liberty aattn ribbon ot
the aame brewn waa 'carried over the
crushed In brim at the left aide, across
th low crown and tied In an ample sow
t the back. The crown of the hat waa
hidden with exqulaltely - natural blue
forget-me-nota, shading ' Into -palest
hadea.
A deep dark red ' leghorn had trim
ming of old rose with the top of the
crown covered with shaded leareav-deep
green a, pale greens, reddish brown and
dull pale yellow.' - '-z' ---5
A I hav aald. the natural leghorn
1 not neglected. . Many of the hand
somest hats ar of this reliable old-time
TRY THESE RECIPES
V-r-7.- Cavassa Cakesv--- - -
Cavaaaa .cakes sre becoming great
favorites for the tea. table, Theae little
biscuits come in boxea of two dofen and
coat 19 cents; They are spread lightly
with butter and delicately toaated. " For
the salad course spread th bjscult with
butter and grated cheese and mt In a
hot-oven for. a fewjilnutet. 1
Ollv Salad. 7.:.
For a dellcloua salad, stone two dosen
olive and cut them Into piecea, mine
cupful and a half each of blanched
almonds and white celery, mix. moisten
with French dressing and serve en a
bed of lettuce with mayonnaise.
Preserved Bhaber.''
Wash, peel and cut the rhubarb into
pieces, thon weigh. Plao In a preserv
ing kettle without water, and cook 99
mlnutea Meantime put an equal weight
of sugar in a saucepan, allowing a pint
of water to each four pounds) of sugar.
Boll without, atlrrlng until a little
poured in a cup of Ice water break
Ilk glaaa When tha rhubarb has ben
cooked enough, pour the syrup over It
ceolLierolnutjWatJrrin
thatilt wlU-not- auc-tiicn pour, into
Jars and . close tightly. Keep In a cold
place . - ' r
?Till once attained, then barren,, lov-
v toss cold). - -
But
the white flame that feed upon th
out
lights lh pathway jloa peaoeful
And
A
sense of humor, and a touch of mirth,
To
brighten up tne snaaowy upon 01
north: ' " - -' -
And
pride that passes vll, choosing
' JtOOd -. v, . . . -
these unit In perfect womanhood.
All
'(Ten Good I Will.
., From Suggeatlon Magailne. .
1. ,1 will be quar I will not do any
man; nor snail any man ao m.
I. I will be thorough I will do my
work so carefully today that tomorrow
III bring no regrets. ".
fc-J will, be - happy I will train my
fnce (o wear a rmll and my tongue Jo
say pleasant thligs.
4. I will be faithful I win stick to
covered with matting. If qu cannot
buy matting, paint the floors, and hav
them washed up twtc a week. Have
cuablona covered ' with eoel linen, or '
lawn, and get some of the brlo-a-brao '
out of the way. Cet back to the "simple -life''-
much as possible.- -
Then, after you have finished your,
clothes and your house, begin on your
meals. Eat little, and as almple as poa
alble. It Is all nonaens at this season.,
when vegetable and fruits ar at their
beet to apend time and energy In - cooking -fancy
dishes, heavy roasts and desserts.
Serve quantitlea of green vegetablea, '
onions, lattuoe, radishes, cucumbers, to-
-nd eras, wmcg-mrq-eaitTyrjt4
pared. .A diet of eggs, with on or two
cooked vegetables would be benef iclajfto
the majority of us. Iced tea or lemon
ade la more cooling and refreshing than
hot coffee. Berries ar aa good served . -simply
with cream and powdered sugar
as they- are when -mad Into- shorttakes
or plea If you do these, you will be .
surprised to see how well you feel at the :
close of the summer.- ,i
.Choose your - amusements carefully. '
If you entertain let. It be of the almpleat .
character. ' Do not overcrowd your '.
house. Aak a few friends In to spend
th evening, and let your refreshments
be of th lightest sort a pitcher of
lemonade. In which the Ice tinkle allur- .
InglyrBom cake, a light Baled, perhaps,
or ice cream; but nothlng heavy. Tour :
meats are no more anxloua Xo eat elab
orate food than1 you are to prepare It""
for them. 1 - '
If ther. ar children In th family,.; .
take them out In th park some evening
for supper. Tou will be delighted at
the change, and ao will they, pack a
baaket early In the evening and tele
phone father,-working downtown in hla -hot
office, that supper, will be served
under the tree. Take along, th maid;
aha needa the change as much a any
other member of ,th family. Tou will
be delighted to see how hungry thle
excursion will make the whole family.
-Try: theae thing thl pummerand ir
rou don't say you hav had th pleaa-.
anteat autnmer you have spent In many
years, l anait do muuu mw
FASHIONS
material. The shepherdess Shap seams
to" belong enfdally to the naturwWeg-
horn. Thla la always ahort-brlmined Jn
front and often so long In th baok- that
It sweeps-down almost to the shoulders.
Wreath and vlnee are the most appro
priate " trimming for thl pattern,
though soft, wide ribbon In bow and
long ends are also in keeping with the
general outline.
The sailor modela are by no means
discarded. One :of theae was in black,
rather -wide -ofTriro and . rld.- af:
course, in the back. This bandeau waa
covered with small .black ostrich tips,
one longer, than the rest drooping on the
hair.. The crown waa hidden with small
pink, and white roses with a small clus
ter under the brim toward the back.
A simple but effective garden party
costume waa worn recently by an un
usually pretty girt ot th Juno type of
beauty.j . Her brown hair :, broke Into
natural waves and curl under a broad-
hrlmmM hat .with fluater or vor
natural -white - rosea 1BW1 on -'tli brim
well to the front end softening in their
effect her rather high coloring. Under- '
neath the brim at" the left aide was a"
bunch of blue velvet forget-me-nots, the ..
cluster being of a coquetMsh else, unob-
In shade with her blue voile skirt, with
which 'she wore an Exquisitely-!!!!-lingerie
walat of muslin and Valencien
nes. The lace collar held up well around
the throat by gold collar supports. Long
white gloves covered the arm. " While
th separata waist and skirt ar not as
popular a the whole-piece dress. In this
caae the effect --was exceedingly-good. '-
being Just odd enough to be distingue.1
At this same - party there waa a
charming, brunette in a dashing picture
hat of fine green bronse straw. The .
trim alone woa ef straw, the low crown
being made entirely of green tulle.
Three, large, grannlsh-yellow roses were '
laid nn the crown, almost concealod by
bunches of light red cherrlea which ex-tr-nded
backward and drooped low orrr-
the hair. - Th -hat was raised nt th ..
eld and back by a bandeau covered with
brown tulle. . ' .'
-T-. Molasses )eoajg. "''
Beat 1 egg, 1 cup sugar, a little suit
and ! teaspoons of ginger together.'"
Add 1 eup of hot molasses. In which 1
dessert spoon of soda Is mixed, 1 cup
of melted butter or lard, of a rtip
hot water and 1 tablespoon of vinegar.
Use Just enough flour to handle. Roll
thin and bake in hot oven.
Movelty Sandwich. ' .'
If a novel sandwich Is wanted, butter
alternate slices of brown and whMe
bread and pile them -one above the
other into a loaf. Cut the new loaf
across the slices butter them-and pllo
them so that when thl second loaf 1
cut the slices will be in whit and
brown, blocks. Press the slice very
closely together before outtlng. at all.
Standard Cheap Oak.'' ;
Two coffe cups pastry flour.- dipped
uo even full, thon .iff t-i.. .
. ..... n , 1 ,1 inn
even teaspoons baking powder and a'
fiii,, , coiim cup augae and Is
pound of buter miniMi .
egga well beaten, t tnbleapoona cream
condensed will do; 1 6-cent bottle ginger
ale, si teaspoon vanilla extract Add
cream to aurar anil hntt.r th.n u...
. . , - . - Ml- I, III.Ti
ale, then egga. flour and v. ..in. n.h
tn cnimney pan and drop Into cookie
tins,, or In pie pans for layer caka
my, task till it'g done and forget the
alarm clock rlnga I will get up at once. '
9. , 1 will be more saving I will put
by something from my salary each week. 1
7. I win work harder-! wlU remem
ber that a man who does no more than
hea paid for never gets paid for mora
than h does. . . - .
V JW.,.U PromP 1 will do It now.
and do It right. . .
y1" optimistic I wll remem
ber that "If you boost th world boost
with you; if you' krtock jmU knock
10. 'I will believe In myself ther 1a
no devil but fear and no kin but Igno
rance. : . ,
Bom of th abov 'were concocted In
. "'e mni ,on" were atolen bodily.
Tor aulek nlts th Waat OoU '
nmn f The Journal. . .