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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (June 10, 1906)
THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTLAND. SUNDAY MORNING, JVNE 10, ' 18C3. Edward Won K i shortsi ISavv Is Tor Those WhaLiKe Ex treme Styles. THERE to a general tendency in favor of short skirts for morn In a wear, and by "short" I - mean a ekirt that Just clears ths around all around, not tha really short, and practical skirts worn a year The fashion of wearing short (skirts originated In America and remains dis tinctly American, for very few such skirts are worn abroad. Our style has ' been copied, but sporadically, and there has never been a real vogue for the short skirt anywhere except In the United States. A. t th nil. 'tli. i.lrfiil alHrt Im newer than any other sort, bat pleated skirts bans; much better and remain In vogue for thla reason and because they 'make a woman look slenderer. The welaht of a pleated skirt Is more evenly distributed than that of other styles of skirts, and it Is also less fatiguing to take long walks In them. 'Women who are much oa thetr feet will find that the circular skirt unless of very thin material will tire them, because all tha welaht la aronnd the feet. ' Bach con siderations aside, however, tha circular skirt la vary pretty and both new and amart. . ...;.'; , ' Pleated aklrta now have the fullness put in large box pleats or In small as sorted ones.' These, as wall ss other sorts of skirts, are in better style whsn made suite - simply, for morning wear, with the decoration of tha costuma con fined to the eoet or bodies. The, ten dency toward simplicity In style is more marked this season., thsa aver. very arm endeevora to get a gown that Is plain without being atlff. The plain nesa Of simplicity and that of severity ax a bar to AUXereaUate la tea making B Practical Coat and Skirt With Bo-Pleated Skirt. .. of a gown, but results show where the artist Lha mads a gown and whers It has been hunf together by A bungler With the needle. - . -- --- The Smartneea of the Short Bolero. " There is a wlda choice In coat lengths for morning wear, but there la no choice In the length of sleeves. These are In variably short. Very looss coata are not worn, but ths half-fitting coat with just a suspicion of looseness about It is very chic. . Tor the generality of morning frowns for 'the street ths short -feoWTSTi-beit. 11 U popular, amart and nearly alwaya becoming. I need not tell my readers hat If It la not becom ing they Should not wear It. The mark of good taste In dress lies in ths ability of being able to determine what Is and is not becoming to one's self. - Coats mad for yachting, motoring, ports of various kinds and strictly country wear may' be made with long tailored eleevee, but even In the rase of tailored sleeves these end above the wrist Instead of upon It, as of old, - Short sleeves are even shorter than formerly. They usually terminate above Instead of below the elbow, , although one may -wear, tha length that pleaeea her best. '.'' Quite an aeenrtmentof materials are shown for making up morning dresses, and smartest among these ere pongees of all kinds and colors, veilings, can vas of light weight, mohairs of which ' there sre , many , sorts linens and sephyrs of wool and cotton for .hones gowns. Dainty linen and cotton gowns sre Invariably sweet and appropriate ls , ths country. '. - figure A ' muiiratee ay amart little Costuma '''''' ' WaaI 'lUTjwtnra Trimmed With " ' ni. ' ' "-Braid- - v morning ' costume . of . shadow-oheckd voile. -Its short Eton coat has a high, r tumed-eter military collar of contraat- - Ing material embroidered In coarse silk. Soutache braiding would ba equally ef fective. ""' Deep pointed lapels ars . trimmed In ths same manner, And so ars ths tumed-up embroidered . ouffs be neath which tha sleeve are plsated. The bottom of the jacket la trimmed with, four folda atltched. around tha top. The sleeves are pleated Into tha arm hole and terminate' at the elbowV A princess skirt Is cut with a plain panel rroni. from earn sine mis panel. near the bottom, folda of graduate) slses are stitched around the lower part of ths aklrtv the gown is buttoned down ths front and has a stock and chemisette Of embroidery or lace. This style of gown would make up well In almoat any of tha materials named. ' Shadow plaids and check a stripes and plain materials sre, all in ' vogue for morning wear.- The gown shown In figure B la a shadow plaid tn soft blues and grays Intermingled. ' It has a box pleated skirt with' a plain 'front whose forward turning' pleats meet on ths renter seam. It 1s cut walking length, with a small Jacket that 1e -bloused a trifle at ths waist and has full aklrta below Ita belt to the hip. This sort of coHft-sJttrl Is, usually called a peplum. A small coat cellar Is embroidered .-and edged with braid. This braid . extends down ths front edges of the coat, ths edges of. ths front panels, belt and topa of cuffs. rButtens faaten ths front of tlie almoat fitted Jacket. Figure C Illustrates a. simple but very, smart morning gown, made of ona of tha light wool mixtures which are ao serv D Ultra tha N iceable and pretty for general wear out of doors. It is made with a short Eton jacket,-almos bolero : In shops, and whtah just' comes ovsr tha top of a wide, fitted girdle, which gives tha Im pression of a 'continuation of tha drsss, and no conveys a prlnosaa effect to tha gown. The Jacket la In a soft. Indefi nite blue, trimmed with wlda and nar row blue silk braid, put around tha bor der In double rows that are folded Into attractive designs In tha corners of ths -fronts and in tha middle of tha back, both at tha neck and bottom edge. Tha wide girdle la trimmed In the aame man-, ner, to give the appearance of a eon-. tlnuatlon of tha bodice, and -tha skirt , may be left plain or trimmed with tha same braid to ault tha fsncy. - . Short aleevea are pleated Into-a cuff trimmed with braid, and small buttons and loops fasten the front and decorate tha cuff at tha back. A dainty blouse of lingerie Is worn with this coatums, and shows above ths open nsck In front. -. This style of gown. would be very at tractive In silk or linen, ss well s 'in ths thin wool fabrics, of, which there are ao many smart onea this season. . An Empire effect Is given ths gown In figure D by the shaping af tha bo dies, which 1 Is mads like , a coat, and may. Indeed, be made separate from tha skirt aa a coat . Thfi -has a Jacket ef fect on tha aides, with the plain straps Of' ths Jacket sides .faced, turned back upon . the" Jacket and hanging below tha waist line.. A wide belt, mads like tha Jackst straps, la fasten across ths fronts and tha tops' of tha Jacket aids plecea are cut In long straps that cross in the middle fit the front and are taat- Smart Morning Gown In aw Empire Style. ' .-; aneo to tha turned-back coat aides near the, waist line. L ' A loose Empire aklrt henge from the hlgn-walated belt of tha combination bodice and Jacket, and la trimmed at the bottom with two folda atltched along their , tipper "edgee. -.In' the bsck the . Jacket Is mads like an ordinary Jacfcet baoky-wlth crossing straps at the tpp forming 4 collar effect below- the neck. ' - - - Medium full sleeves are gathered to tha arm hole and terminate la a turned up cuff above a atrap cuff, .with but tons to matchthe buttoned etrapaon the Jacket, J .' A cost like this may be made without the aklrt to the jacket. It may ter minate' In a short-walsted trlmmsd belt, end with It could be used facings and straps of smbioldered material to con trast with ths material of the gown. A linen gown would be attractive made In thla fashion. With facings,, belt, straps and sleeve ' and skirt - folds formed of a different color from tha linen dpf iha gown. Pretty combina tions sre blue and white, pink and white and red and white. - Of. course shoes would ba worn to rrtatoh tha brighter color of the gown. . --n Morning gowns of pongee are. won derfully economical. The gown may be washed and Ironed aa easily as a cot ton gown Is cleaned, and so be kept continually fresh. This sort of silk rs qulres little trimming. Folds, tucks and a bit of embroidery or touch of lacs tn the nef-t and front all form almple and effective trimmings. - , A comfort to the Ausinees girl Is the fait that skirt end Jacket suits Will be much wor. for morning wear. It) nearly all eaaea ths girdle will be sr "Vy )-v..,,-.'v..r v-f , ... . ; A Morning Gown of Shadow l ' Checked VoUe With Princess Skirt . V--,--,.,. : -, , i , -i . , v built as to give an unbroken skirt tins up to the lower edge of a bolero or ahort Eton Jacket. There la, however, no set ruls se fo the make of the skirt. Which msy be built on any of tha pre vailing lines, but aa simply aa- posslbls. i The question of glovss for morning wear is quits Important, Whtta glovss are no longer smart with gowns that are worn on thj street Instead, gowns of beige color, ecru or yellow are,- tn vogue. .Soft shades of. fray and of tha neutral tints that go well .with the gowns worn, both 1n long wrinkled va rieties and In short gloves."' . . important feature. Theae are invari ably dainty and fine for wear with a short coat, and more almple when worn with a longer eoat, since these ars used mostly for country wesr. Batiste, linen and lawn, trimmed with embroidery and lace, are all amart for separata blouses, and it Is well to have soms pretty con nection between shlrt and Bedlce. such as elaborated auspsnders and fragments of waists, go-that ths cost msy be re moved on warm days and the gown stm have the appearsnee of. being one garment JOSEPA WILSON OSBORN. vr -v Utatme of Limitations ., . From ths Milwaukee' Sentinel. ' . "Excuse me," said the old lady with - eyeglaseea In - the art gallery, "but ' haven't you got any more figurea In marhlear" .. - - Theae are all, madam." replied the polite attendant ,"Is there any partic ular ons you sre looking' forr Tesi I wanted to see the ststite of Mmltatlona nye husband waa , veuing about" His Queen v. t at rrom the Loa Angeles Times. ' TT 18 not generally known- ,.. .v. I - present queen of England owes heH ru.non an wire of Edward VII partly to her excellent reading. She British court where tha lt. r,... ... torla devised numerous fetes and otheH .ninnii in oonor or the occasion . One aav. vabHuI kw 1 1. . . pomp of regal etiquette, young Princes' Alexandra took a book and wandered off In the palace, gardene. So deeply! was aha engrossed In thfs pastime that! she was unaware tit th hi.,. had strolled from the palace, startled Vl V .hnil a eil.l ; . "" acroas ner path shs looked up and aaw Albert Edward Prince of Wales. ... Me emUed and aald: "Tq were read ingr' -- s. ... ., "rea, your highness," shs replied. -: -May I inquire what author la ao highly honored r . . ' t , , 'Shakeapeare.' . ;4 ,'". n"And you were reading?" - With something akin io Yankee spirit shs answered: "Ouesa" . . . - , "Romeo and Juliet." , ,1 ' iou are good at, guessing." shoJ laugningiy rssponded; "It la really so Take my arm and lend, me your Shakespeare." proposed Prince Albert Thus, arm In arm, thsy continued their walk, he salaetlnv j reading them to her, aha an attentive uec-iner. "Ahl" Je suddenly exclaimed, "this ia a ffoincldence. I shall lend yon my copy and you will find that whsrevei there la a passage marked In yerura mine is .marked M preclelythsam spot." ' "'That almnlv nrovea. ni-lnee th. oaxv both appreciate the beautiful," re-j turnto Alexandra, quietly. Finally, tired of -walktngv ihv'y"s"eated themselves In 4he shade ofA glantak. aqd tha prince, who aa klnf still said to be a fine reader, selected several pas sages, and read aloud with a skill which evoked the highest compliments ef hie fair companion, v . - . HO then chose a nasaage for her t' , any Ing;, -waut-ytt-to-read able a swett aa you possibly - She glanced at It. and emillna-Iv com mented: -I eee 1t Is something about kissing, but as I presume It would be treason to question the tsate of your royal highness, I shall endeavor to do my best . At the conclusion of her. t forte... the prince Impulsively clapped hla hsads. and exclaimed: "Bravo! You read ao finely that I wish you might-be em ployed by the year to please the court of I England with, your voice!'1 . l!"In.that 'caaC prlnce.! she aald sari ousty, "I do not know 'of any -one who le better able to employ me than your self." ,-, .. -. .. "It would depend eltogether on your prioe," replied Albert half Jokingly. "Oh!" returned the princess. "1 should not be very extravagant In my chsrees I should be willing to read them for llf for the aum of IS shllllnga" The prince, somewhat mystified, cau tioned her: "Tou are much too moder ate; , I fear you . would soon have rea son to regret such an engagement" ' . "Not . so . Insignificant after .. all. prince." rising aa ahe spoke, "for, if you reflect a moment, you -will remember the sum of It shllllnga Is no' less then an Engliah sovereign and. an -English crown." . " . ' - ' Before Albert had recovered from his astonishment Alexandra had left his prssenoe perhsps fearful of the effect a of her audacity. ' : ? ";:;.' ' That she created an impression on tha her apparent is, however, most evident. Her marriage with Albert Edward took place on March 10, 1861,. and she now shares with, htm ths honors incldsnt to a 15-shllHng Income. Heidelberg Castle to Be Restored ' at at : . (From a Btarf . Carreapoedeat) .i "' ' IN "Old Heidelberg." the German play whlch.waa -produced In Great Bri tain and the United (ltea. there was one. particularly kiumuutw stsge picture. - It showed a beer garden in the German university town by night In the middle distance was the river Neckar with the lights from the houses shining in Its waters, and behind all towered the shattered turrets snd battle-mente-ef -eld Heidelberg --'castle,- the grandest ruin In Europe." - which wss supposedly Illuminated for" a fete. That scene captivated - practically - every- one who saw it and I know , of several Americans and English people who went to Heidelberg laat - summer . solely for the purpose of seeing the Neckar. with the ruined castls tn ths background. Just ss ths scenepalnter had portrayed H on his canvas. . They- found that the Castle which stands on a hill 330 feet above the town did not belle Its reputation for -Impree-slveness and beauty; In fact it exceeded all. their expectations. .80 -thsy,- and thousands of others who have looked on the grand old ruin, may have been dis mayed recently to. hear that the castls waa In Imminent danger of collapse, owing to a subsidence of the hill on which It is built It seems, however, that, there la considerable hope of sav ing what remains of . the great struc ture which the French tried in 1689 to blow, up with gunpowder. The govern ment of Baden has Just granted S100.0A4 toward the restoration of the csstls and the work of doing thla is to commence Immediately. , - . Begun at the close of ths ISth century and added to In WO. 1KJ and 1007, Heidel berg castle was formerly tha residence of the electors palatine. It twice fell Into the hands of . the French In Its and lets In the last Instance being al most, completely destroyed. Lightning Injured it sUH further In 1764, Aside from Its beauty and historical . Interest the castle Is famous for Its great cellar Heidelberg Tun wsloh wss esee "eapable of containing 60.000 gallons of wine.. "' Frogs tnvads a Town. ' " : From Pall Mall Gaxette. ., . Balmsdale, an Australian township about (0 miles from Melbourne. Ties re cently experienced a strange and by no means pleaaant visitation. An army of frogs,- numbering thoi. sands, swarmed Into the town, probably from a neighboring morass. They cov ered the roads In all directions and ths traffic slaughtered them wholesale. They even get Into the houses, where the drs and cats killed them by ths doaen. while houssholdera In mint In stances had to aweep them out, deafV and alive, with brooms and ahovet them into buckets.,-, . The episode caused somewhst " of . a scars In tha minds ef the eupersitlous, and aome of the old folk declared the end of the world was at hand. ' The In vasion, however, finally psssed on to some more Congenial tiome-to sing lis chorus of "Rrek-kek-kek-kek ' kodx." which Aristophanes put Into - their ttOUtha, ' '...,' i " " V.' ' "' ' . :v .' : v
