THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING.--JUNE- 3, 1C03. ft CIO V,. .- -V 1 (Onfirrlrkt. 1008, br Jo. . BleOor7rlM ' la Omt Brit In 1U aunts mmiili s lUKZ, April I. is. w uav ai last reached India and what ex- tremea arc here! Southerns dla penetrates the Indian ocean and la so near the equator that the ' Inhabitants nwelter under the heat of . perpetual summer, while the rocky sen tlnels that guard thefrontier are clad In the lea of an eternal winter. As might be expected in a land whloh has : every altitude from sea level to nearly 10.000 feet," one finds all varieties f Tiion- irora in-- aeitcal Tern or toe tropica to the, sturdy eoolwels , that blossoms In the snow from the ram and orchards of Agra, Ouuh and lths Punjab to the cotton, rice and : fmlts of iSombav. "CSlcliTtia-iidMad- - -ras. - The extreraer , era as notioeable among the people as Jn nature's realm. In learning there Is a great gulf be- . Iween.. the - Hindu - pundit : ar.d 'the 1g norant ryot; there la a wide .sea' be tween the wealth of , the native prince and- the . poverty of tha ' massest and , and the poverty of tha maases, and there Is a boundless ocean between the government and the people. . Eastern India Is entered through Calcutta, a city of more than a mil- ' Hon Inhabitant, .which has been built up under British occupancy. It la the . capital of the province of Bengal and - tha.. winter capital of Britten India. Winter Capital of British India.' " ' I aay winter capital " because the higher English officials have their head quarters at Simla. (.000 feet up In the Himalayas, during eight months of the year. Calcutta Is on the Hooghly river. line uf-th mniieaena i waul ha of , the - Gangew and th Ganges. It may be added. Is a little disappointing- to one who has read about It from youth. "In--T stead ofbeing" a 'large 'Tlvcr.-Tlowtn f J down from the Himalayas directly .to the sea, it Is neither of great length nor .fsTrfa.twiiltlu. ndltjuiui.lDr hundreds of . mile along the foot of ttnr-rsngv nd'Tnl hsl h eBrah "inapu t Fa which comes from -an opposite dlreo- tlon and annarentlr la mi """The mouTb. of the Joint stream form a delta like that of the Nile, which at ---thmtmtv-tir-fmnrnTBg like sou mlTes . wide. "' -' '' " " ; Lacking the antiquity of tha cities .of the Interior. Calcutta, does not os seas : many things of Interest ths tourist, no elaborate .tombs, no mas sive mosques and few templea of lm portance. although all shades of re . " 1 iglon - are represented hrer,-TtleT"ts ,a - very pretty Jain temple Irv the auh . urba, and In the city there la a Hindu - temple - where goats are offered as a . sacrifice. . but . the center of Hinduism . . Is st Benarea. while Agra, Delhi and Ixieknow . furnish the finest specimens ... of the taste of the - Mohammedan rulers. There are at Calcutta some fine, public bu lid I n gss.nd . Jess ,preten . .xlous private tlecks, .some... beautiful ...-parks snd a-very extensive museum. r Mecca of the Student. . . " In this museum- one can learn more of the various races of India, of their dress. -Implements and weapons, more -. of the animal and Insect, life, more of India' ' mineral wealth, more of her woods, stones and marbles, more of - her, agricultural products and manu factures than ha can In weeks of travel. - He aees here mounted specl- mens of bug and butterfly, bird, fish . - and' beast It-la the very Mecca of the student and wa saw a number of groups thus engaged. t ; Among the Insects there are several - which Illustrate the mimicry of nature to a marvelous degree. Some are like dried grass, like moss snd some like leaves., The most remarkable of these Is a leaf Insect "which can acarcety be - detected from a leaf even-after It has been pointed out. There is a mountain - grouse which turns ' white in the win- - ter. and - In some - crnintrlea . a hare : which undergoes the, same change.. In Ceylon there are crsbs with legs like pieces of coral and a color closely re- - sembllng tha sand upon which they crawl, but the leaf Insect surpssses 1 . them all. Not only Is Its color Identi cal with the leaf, ' but ' Its body and wings are veined and . ribbed like a , leaf; even rust spot - could - ba - found .on some of them. . We could hardly believe our own eyes hsd wa not seen some of these insects alive and aome . ot tha young Just batched. Famous Banyan Tree. v The botanic 1 garden, while not equal - .jln variety or beauty to tha gardens at Bultensorg and Kandy, has one object of growing Interest, vis., a gigantic banyan tree. This tree Is nearly a cen tury and a half old and ahades a spot J,of - ground almost a thouaand feet In circumference. Great arms run out from the parent trunk and these are supported bv 4(4 aerial roots or minor trunks, soma of which are several feet in diameter. Been from a distance tha tree presents a very symmetrical ap- VIENNA'S NOOK OF HONOR Where the Great In Music Mingle Their Ashes in Central Cemetery - - trs s lorn-sal Staff Cemeposaest.) IN Vienna s ."Graves of Honor", 11 'the remains of such a "galaxy of great musicians and com posers as - ', perhaps can be found In no-. other country In the world. Hera in th moat beautiful part of th Central cemetery, th largest burying ground In Europe, II Beethoven, Gluck. Schubert and other masters of music of scarcely less re- -IIOSJH. 1 1 -"T-rr-n-, A magnificent monument to Moxart stands, in ths midst of them, but It Is only a monument, and marks no grave. For th whereabouts of Mosart's remains is a mystery, except as regards the skull, which is In ths possession of a friend of the family. Other monuments cover th grave of ' painters, sculptors, artists, authors, play ers, aU of whom occupied high positions In the world of art and culture. ; These so-called "Graves of Honor" ar of quit recent date. When the great Central cemetery was first opened a few years ag a number of small local bury ing grounds which had sufficed for th city's needs were closed, snd In some ease tt was even proposed to build over parts of them. Scattered a moils' these little cemeteries were . ths remains of e-iany eminent rlt liens snd resident of Menna. and aa It seemed only fit and proper that thes should be trriited with all honor and reverence the rlty council secMtd have them taken up and rein I) ri ;y pearance, and. as It Is still growing. It 1s likely to become. If It is not al ready, the largest tree in the world." Tha soological garden contains soma excellent specimens. W were especial ly Interested in tha Bengal tigers, in a red-nosed African mandrill (which looks like a cross between a 'hog and an ape), and In tha monkeys. Three of the let ter belong- to the shouting variety at least, they do shout. When tha attend ant' gives -t he cue they set up such a chorus of ear-splitting yells aa one sel dom hears. -The echoing, and reechoing makes a din before which the nolee of a football game seems tame. While not a football enthusiast, I venture the suggestion that - an . American .team would do well to secure the assistance of thesa rooters for they could work up the necessary enthusiasm on short no tice and with a 'great aavlng to tha throats of the students. On the streets of Calcutta one sees Indian life In 'all its forms. The cool les wear tha-rhrhtestiogBlblclgthlng and carry enormous burdens on their heads. " : ". Grand Piano Among; Eight. - ' I saw eight of thera hurrying down tha street at a fast walk bearing a grand piano on their heada. In another place ona man carted a large Saratoga trunk on his head down tha hotel stairs. He hsd to have assistance. la. lifting and lowering It, but when It waa once balanced upon his heaa ha marched off with it with apparent east. The coolie women also scarry burdens upon their heads, water Jars being their specialty. Two and even three of these, one on top of another, are sometimes carried thus. The brass water pot is, by the terred In a prominent position In the new. csmetery.- -. , ' ' - A small area was chosen for the recep tion of-these Illustrious dead, and also for other great men . who might come after them. The city bore all the ex pense attending the removal and re burylng, and sometimes provided the monument. In other cases, however, the friends and admirers -of tha deceased artlstsunaertook . tha , srectlon of ..the tie , In vlw of the approaching centenary oi me oeatn of Haydn (In 1909) one of th city aldermen recently proposed that this great composer's remains should be brought from the small " village churchyard where they were laid and plaoed beside his distinguished associates. Ths alderman, however, had overlooked the fact that the great noble family of Estsrhasy had removed Haydn's corps 14 years after hi death to a magnificent tomb upon their estate at Eisenstadt Haydn had been private organist and music master, to the Princess Eater haay, and they had. therefore, provided this final resting place for him. The spot chosen for ths "Graves of Honor" hat been tastefully laid out and planted .with . choice tree and shrubs and beautiful flowers. It will shortly be stUI more beautified by the erection of a .magnificent church and colonnades which will coat nesrly 11,000.000. Ac cording to the plans, which hav Just been approved, the bulldtna; and its sur rounding will give a somewhat similar ft 1- View of the'Himalajrag From Darjee ling. wsy, never out of sight in India; It Is to be aeen everywhere, and the scouring of these pots seems to give employment for leisure moments. . - While much 'carrying is dona on the head - and on , the- pole, carts of all kinds are numerous. The water buffalo Is to bv found 'In India, but he divides the honors with tha Indian bullock aa a beast of burden. The Indian bulock is a mild-eyed beast, usually white or light In color, and hqa a hump on tha 'houlders which seems -made expressly for ths yoke. There Is a amall variety of the bullock which Is used for draw ing passenger carta, and some of these are so fssr that they are entered In trotting races. The' merchants of India are a shrewd and persistent class. They press their wsres upon one at the hotela and In their shops, and the purchaser never knows 'whether he Is buying st a bar gain or paying two or three prices, A Matter of Conscience. ' ' . -It is not at Till . uncommon for the dealer to begin negotiations with- the assertion that e has' but one price and that his conscience will not allow him to ask more than a fair price, and con clude by selling at a 2t or SO per cent discount.... It may be that the natlvea are treated differently, but tha foreigner Is likely to be charged "what tha traffic will bear." . You cannot Judge - the value rot "a merchant ! stock by the slse or ap pearance of his store. He may have a little booth open In front, with no show windows,, but when he begins to bring out his trunks and bundles, to msy ex hibit Jewelry worth a hundred thousand dollars or rich embroideries worth their .. i 't effect to the great. squsrs of St. Pster's In Home. The church will be of impostkg proportions. Its gilded cross rising some ion feet sbovs ths. ground.'. The crpyt will provide spaes far 40 (raves and la f t - ) at m weight ln gold. 'The merchant' alts cross-legged, on . tha floor , and spreada out . tha wares which his attendant bring, beguiling you tha while with sto ries of Lord So-and-So's purchase or of Lady What's-Her-Naene'a order, or of a check for thousands handed him by an American millionaire. . , Tha native buildings are. as a rule, neither ' beautiful nor . cleanly. The little shops that open on the street ex hibit food and vegetables arranged in heaps, the vendor apparently Indifferent to dust and files. The houses are gen erally of adobe, plastered with mud and without fioora. - In the warmer sections of the country they are built of matting and bamboo. - The rich Indians live, la substantial homea with . high celling a, tile floors and spacious, verandas, but these are very few compared with the maas of tha poor. : . . , ...... Women Kept in Seclusion, ... Th, Indian- women of - the - higher classes are in ' seclusion all the tlm. They aeldom leave their homes snd when they do venture out, they travel In covered chairs or closed carrlagea. This custom was brought Into India by tha Mohammedan conquerors, but It has been generally adopted by Hindu so ciety. There is a growing sentiment among ths educated Hindus agalnat this practice, so burdensome to woman, but custom yields slowly to new ideaa. At Calcutta w met several Indian ladles of high social rank who. In their home life have felt the Influence of west ern ideaa and who havs to aom extent lessened the rigors of the senana se clusion). Two of these ladles on a princess were daughters of tha fa mous Keshub 'Chunder Sen, ths great Honor Corner in Vienna Cemetery. Ihs colonnades Inclosing th ' area In front will b. mursl , graves after th custom of th Romans and early Chrle tlanS. Thes colonnade will be 1,000 ft la length and will afford spaos for ; ' ' Hindu reformer whose writings made a profound-1 impression on the religious ThoughT of Ths wdrld.'"Tri'Th"e" group was also a daughter-ln-lsw of Mr. Sen's, a briinan f ' m umsfTwho-'ittt Ternho wtddw of a native prince at the age of IS and who"5 recently shocked the - orthodox Hindus by a eeondmarTlags."I men tion . these ladles because they repre sent the highest type of Indian woman hood, and it would be difficult to And In any country. In a group of the same slse. more beauty, 'culture- and refine ment. . : . . . . - . Picturesque. Press of Natives. - The principal article of feminine dress Is tha saral, a long- strip of cotton or silk, part of which la wrapped about the body to form a. skirt, while the rest Is draped over the head and shoulders In graceful - folds. This garment lends Itself to ornamentation and la .usually embroidered along , the edgea, sometimes with silver- and gold. Ws ; hav not found In our travels-, mora becoming and" attractlvs costums."y'y"','"''"- ' - The dress of ths men Is 'so varied that description Is impossible. On form of dress resembles - too - Roman toga.. Many - wear trousers made : by mysterious windings and foldings of a long strip of cloth, others wear loos pantaloons. The coats are - as multi form, a long, close-fitting, one being the most popular. . But" the hat is the ar ticle to which most cars is given. While the fes is popular, it is not so con spicuous as ths turban, .t The tatter Is to be seaa In alL colors, shapes and styles. Some of the eduoated Indians havs adopted ths European dress, but ths Chang In costume has not been rapid. . - .. r - r Calcutta, is one of the educational centers of India, and on finds In ths city many of the leaders of thought Educational and political. . Tba Univer sity of Calcutta grants degrees "and affiliates to Itself the colleges whoss students are preparing for the univer sity examinations. Besides ths univer sity, there are medical, law and techni cal schools which draw young men from the entire country. The position taken by Lord Curson in the matter of higher education aroused so much opposition among tn native population mat an famlly ha, furnhea several men prom association waa formed two years ago ,.ot m,ellg1ou. literary and official for h purpose of raUlnsnionsy to da-I ttfaeauctton- has-ftrond a -patron 1n fray the expenaes of students desiring to study abroad. Last year 14 students were selected and sent to different countries. This year 44 are going, and I had ths pleasure of meeting these at a public reception given them at ths town hall.. . Editor Offer Prayer.. -' f This - meeting " interested ; me very much. It was opened with a prayer by Editor Sen of the Indian Mirror, a lib eral Hindu, and it waa such a prayer as might have been offered in any Ameri can church. It waa so brief that I quote it in full: "We thank thee, O God, that by thy blessing these young men whom w sent abroad for study last year are -"' ' ' 'n " w Til J2L many Interments. It la-probable that when thel ares' of th "Graves of Honor' begin to be I exhausted' Vienna's . IN luatrluua dead will be accorded a rest lug place in th colonnades. - - .v . . ....-.'. ' - -: :mm,v(;::;. The Great Banyan Tret at Calcutta. doing; their work" well and hav by thy grace been kept In th-rlght path: We ar "oW"mel UTW" Tare weirtd"" Tmuen largerxnumbrOf our. youths, who. arehgraQ4..and.JJj;toresllis In tha shbrnaavlnjp" these shores for study in distant foreign lands. W ask thy abundant blessing on ' them, and we humbly beseech thee" to protect them In their travels by -sea and land and to brine them all safely to their respec tive destinations. May tbey be diligent In their atudlea, obedient to tbelr teach ers, grateful to those by whose help they ar being sent abroad, and blame less in their conduct. May ths lov and fear of God rule their hearts, and may they return to -us and to those nearest and dearest to them In due course crowned -with - full success and filled with an earnest deslr to labor for tha good of tbelr country and their poorer brethren. Wa commend them to thy gracious keeping as ws now bid them a hearty farewell, snd ' beseech the to help us all to' live and work for "the glory of thy name and ths good of our fellow men now and always. - ' ""Most' of "tha students werw-going -to Japan on of th many Indications of that country's lncreaalna influeno la th orient sons were going; to Eng land and a ,few 7 to America. Those bound for America called upon me later at th hotel, and I found them an ear neat and ambitious' group. They had, as all tha Indians whom wa met seemed to have, a .high opinion of ourv country and spoks with enthusiasm of th bene fits which they - hop to derive from their stay In tha United Btatea. These and 'other students with whom I cam Into contact impressed m . as exceed ingly patriotic 'and anxious to turn their Information and their ability to ths advantage of tbelr country. High Positions WonTby Indiana.' In Calcutta there are a number of In dians who hav won prominence in various spheres of activity. Editor Sen, to whom I have already referred, is on ef th most influent lal of - th native editors and writers. Editor Banerje of tha Bengals is both a writer snd sn orator, and th editor of th Patrlka has mad his paper an exponent of ad vanced political thought. Thai Tagor th Roy family, and Dr. Boss has won more than a national reputation in science. " "": r-- e - e ' e ' e . . Those whs visit Calcutta cannot af ford to mlaa tha side trip to Darjeellng, a summer reeort perched upon th foothills of th Himalayas The Jour ney la rather fatiguing three hours to th Ganges, then an all night rid to th foot of th rang and then an eight hour climb on a two-foot a-auge up ths mountain side, but It amply, repays th effort. We count this experience among tha rlcheSt that wa have enjoyed. The city of Darjeellng is about 7,000 feet above th sea and th aides of the Him alayas are so steep at this point that It Is only to mile , down the slgxag MADE NICICEL POPULAR .stawst- French Minister of Ruse to Circulate Coin st tt . ; (froa s Joarnal Staff OorreiponSent.) M; POINCARRE. th minister Of finance, has given striking proof of his resourceful ness. When - he assumed office he found that th new 2t-centim nickel coin which . correspond exactly to th American "nickel" was exceed ingly' unpopular; so much so that there waa serious talk of calling It In again. the departmental-offlclala for puahlng lh circulation of Jhcotn. It was gravely proposed that a pamphlet should' be published for gratuitous distribu tion calling- attention to Its. advantages, citing Its demonstrated utility In the United States, and appealing to ths pa triotism of th French public to support It , "J.ust leav th matter In my hands." said M. Polncarr. after thes sugges tions had been laid before him. "and I'll guarantee that within -a few weeks ths nickel will be th most popular coin In Paris.' Had M.' Polncarr laid his scheme be fore hi colleagues they would probably have rejected It aa undignified, Unpre cedented snd contrary to all th red tap rules so. dear to th official mind. Ha said nothing to them, however, about ths plan ha had In view. Nobody knew who started the rumor, or th means that were adopted to sprssd tt, bat onS day all Paris wss whispering thst In the Issue of thes coins were five on which th mafia word "Rothschild" hsd been I- little railroad to the plain where' ths ' elevation' tsttiT"200 oT 100 feet." T do" fhot"xn6w:wfcer on "cai -find "more"! " distance than on this narrow gauge that threads its way up the rocky aides - of this most stupendous of mountain ranges. Effect of Mountain Life. " v : - Darjeellng- is so near to Tibet, Nepal.' Blkklm and Bhutan that on flnda hsr a - motley variety of types' and sees something of th native life of th for -bidden . land that stretches along ths . northern border of India. . Th mountain tribes ar sturdier in build, coarser is) r feature and lighter in -color than ths ; people of th lowlands and wa aaw soma types that strongly resembled th Amer . lean Indian. --a . But to return to th mountains them selvesT th viw from Darjeellng is uiw surpassed. The Ktnchtnjunga peaks Vlss rise to a height of 18,161 feet sbov ths ses, or . nearly twice as high aa Plke'S Peak, and though 4S rnllea distant, sr -clear and dlstlncU The summits seen above (ft clouds, seemt. to have-wo-tr--.-. restrlal base, but hang aa If suspended. In mid air. Ths best view is obtained from Tiger Hill, six mile from Darjeellng- and 1,000 feet higher. W made this - 1 trip one morning, rising- at t o'clock andj reaching tha observation point's llttls ' before sunrise, . I. wish I were arte to convey to th reader th impression made upon us. While air about us waa yet In dark. . ness ths snowy robe which clothes th upper 11.000 feet of th rang caught! a tint of pearl from, th flrat rays of th sun, and, as ws watched, ths orb of day, rising Ilk a ruby glob from a lake of dark blue mist, gilded peak after peak until at last w saw Mount ""' Everest, earth' loftiest point, 1 JO mile away and nearly 1,000 feet higher than Klnchlnjunga. W saw shadows fleeing from the light like hunted culprits snj hiding; in the deep ravines, and we -marked th triumph of th dawn as If swept down th valleys. f I Inspiration From tha Heights. ' How puny seem th works of mart when brought into comparison with ma Jostle nature! His groves, what pig mles when measured against the virgin forest! His noblest temples, how lnslg nlflcant when con treated-with -tha.jna sonry of 'tH hills! What canvaa cat) imitate th dawn and sunset! What rn laid work can match the mosaics ef ths mniintMlnflf la it blind chance' that gives this glimpses of the subliroeT And wsa blind chance that clustered vaat reser voire about inaccessible summits and stored water to refresh 1 tha thirsty plains through hidden veins and aurfscS streams? No wonder men from the beglnnlnn of history has turned to Ths heights foi Inspiration, for hero Is the-spirit awed, by ths Infinite snd her on sees bo tit th mystery of creation and the man I festation of th Father's loving kind ness. Her men finds a witness, un impeachable though silent, to .. th em ntpotence and th goodness of God. Finance Resorts to engraved in tiny letters. And every where th story waa told that tha first person who took ons of these coins to Rothschild's bank In ths Ru Lafltt would receive I&.000 for It, that for th second nickel similarly Inscribed 12,000 would be paid; for the third and fourth $1,000, and (400 for th last or th five. It was said that Rothscrrild had a large " stock of nickel on hand which he wanted -to get rtcV-of -to th soTernment. and had devised- -this -sort-f gratuitous lottery scheme in order to create a demand for the nickel coins as would force th gov ernment to buy th hiatal-of him. ' Th credulous French folk, who dearly lov anything that appeals to their ganv bllng Instincts, readily swallowed tha story. Small tradesmen who hsd pre vlously fought shy of the new coin were eager to obtain It. .Tha lower clSaaes Insisted on getting nickels with their -change.- In a few days th nickel 21 centimes was- the most popular coin 'in Parla and the demand for It exceeded th aupply. Needless to say, no on hs yet got hold of a coin on which, even by the aid of a microscope, th nam "Rothschild'-can b discovered. But there are still thousands of people 'in Parla who ar convinced that with good ' luck they may obtain 16.000 for t cents. It must not be Inferred from, this thst M. Polncarre belongs to ths mountebank type of politician. He Is ons of th hardest and moat conscientious worker at th bar. But In his younger' dara hs -was a Journalist, . . i, 7