The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972, June 03, 1906, SECTION THREE, Image 34

Below is the OCR text representation for this newspapers page. It is also available as plain text as well as XML.

: . . -
. .TrT ; ' . .V . I
h: v v-.-. iiv".7.. :iA"'i-: . .. .
Smart Afternoon
Gowns, However
informal, Must
Have Shoes or
Spats to Mtch
The All-filacK
Clown Extreme
FTERNOON gowns 7 T
divided Into two olaa. those
- for formal occasion and thos
for informal occasion!. - Th
former are very elaborate affalra whlla
tha latter rr -comparatively- almple.
JTh Jnfprnilajrte
worn for a variety of purpose, whloh
makes tt practical, especially, as It mar
taka the place of tb mora -aiaborata
- town for formal function if ion ha
. aot a large wardrobe.
While we are copying tha French
""""" qalte closely this season in our ehlo
.froc,ka.we differ . fromthei,flliUncUjf:j
v in our moan ui armini lor me aner-
the outline of day clothes for the two
nations. The Frenchwoman dresses in
-. -r- tna morning In gowns which are almost
i . severely simple, and makes a special
toilette lor ua arternoon. which I-very
----- handsome and elaborate. The American
:. .yam an. on the contrary, likes to make
one toiietis ror in any: Thnrciistom"
-iwJhs.Jbe.!harnean of introducing
; among us'an entirely new style of dreaa.
, It U a style simpler than tb after
noon gowa of tba Frenchwoman and
.. more elaborate than her morning gown
over are. Thi gown is ' universally
American and, because it serves duty
- In both the morning and afternoon, is
a favorite form of dress, and quit an
- economy, too, for It save tha coat of
a second dress for either morning or
afternoon wear.'
Our Informal afternoon gown la.
therefore, distinctly American, although
It line are French, - i,-; ,-. .
"Shah My Gown Train or Not?"
' The reason for this Is simple enough.
The, French woman lunches at home. If
she goea out in tha morning aha returns .
home for luncheon, while the American
woman follow just th opposite course.
When she goes out In the morning she
, ' Invariably lunches with a friend or at a
restaurant Th fact that she mean to
do this lead her to- doa a dress suffW
eiently elaborate for a quiet luncheon
and yet plain enough not to ba consplou-
,us upon an expedition to the shops. .
- The style of this informal afternoon
gown la individual, and women often.
. therefore, become confused as to It '
.....,. proper lengths -'Should my gown train
or notf they ask me constantly. -'
' Happily there 1 a choice In this re- L
- nct. Gowns may be either trained for
afternoon wear or short, provided they '
: . are not too short Th senaibl reallv -
.... short gowns which ws wore two seasons
i ago nave given place to the so-called
short gown which escapes the around
i-all around,- but which la -of -very little---
i practical use in sloppy weather..
Irf these gowns the tendency Is to
have the topa of them very much
trimmed and the skirt quit plain. In-
deed, the simpler th skirts the better, r
sines trimming breaks th graceful llnee
in wnicnr tney-ar cut. Only- a tall
woman-catr trrotr really well in a much
urimmea skirt, '
Tb coats or bodice of afternoon
- gowns are embroidered or braided or
trimmed In some pretty fashion, but
-C , f -k .-.",.. - i :. . - S f r ' i .. ...
kX ' . ,7,t. J i it r '-w"- 1 m t in it .
I'"'- A W f FC2..,nt:3 pAS'c::cr:c3rD
l . , v 'I W f . , ai.' J it-. , ai M ,m -. mi - w i
. .- . . i -j-i j: M.I iii sjej a. -i-l .iqw i-w- sbbbbbbbbbb . .ifTiiHMii ',' d ar, at ifja t - is a l ?i ... a ---" f" ' TB T m t
Esrnr Wit::
w-a-iw,... .: ,... imi' .,ti r - . piii b i ii ii i w hi niiw i 3i im . j ii.r u em m 1 i i i i ..........
1 lr rw W a - rVw. --- - - noon-Gown in Ba.
i r wi. 'mm m,YN. . .. Coior, showing
By John Howard Drytnt.
RESH from the fountains of wood
A rivulet of tha valley cama, " 11 r '
- And elided on for many a rood, '
Flushed with the morning's ruddy name. ,
The air was fresh and toft and sweet; . . , ,
" The slopes In spring's new verdure lay, i
. 'And we with depdrops at my feet ', ' r.'f?
Bloomed, the young1 violet of May. . -
No sound of busy life was heard
. Amid those pastures lone and still; -; 1 , '7
Save the faint chirp of early bird, ; - - , U
Or. bleat of flocks along the hill.- ;
I traced that rivulet's winding way? t v ' J , ,
( New scenes of beauty opened round, " t '!.'
Where meads of brighter verdure lay,
: 7 And lovelier blossoms tinged the ground." '-Vl '1.
'Jih,htp9T valley streamr ''tti 'Jfl'y : J
' uaim guaes my waw amia tne owers, v .
Whose fragrance round tlfy path is shed
.' Through all the joyous summer hours. ;
"O could my years,' like thine; be' passed 4 -r
In some remote and silent glen . -jj v
Where I could dwell and sleep at last, ,
Far from the bustling haunt of men P
,'':".'af ' ' : -'.vV :
But wha new echoes greet my earr -
The village school-boy's merpr call; ;
And mid the village hum I hear: : r
The murmur of the waterfalL'''l;t'.i';..4
. I looked: the widening veil betrayed v: V ,
A ' -A pool that shone like burnished steal,
V . ' Where that bright valley stream was stayed
T , To 4uri th-milUt' ponderous "wheel. -
1. '
Ah I why should I, I thought with shame, '
igh for a life of solitude, . : A . ; - i
When even this stream without a name . .
Is laboring for the common good. . ;
No longer Jet me shun my part v ; "
But with a warm and generous heart
Press onward in the glorious strif
f.X i -. V . .'i . f
s. 1 y; f
; - By Robert Louis SterensoiL
Trusty dusky, vivid, true,
With eyes of gold and bramble dew, ;
Steel true and blade straight, ' .
-rv The great Artificer ...yi-':
Made my mate. '-,
Honor,' anger, valor, fire;" TT:r
A love that life could nevertlre,
Death quench or evil stir,: '- '"
. - The mighty Mister . ":WT
Gave to her, ..v ;''v 'y-'' , "',
Teacher,' tender comrtde, wife,'.
A fellow farer true through life,
Heart wnoie ana soui tree, , :
The august Father - '
Gave to me. '.' ..'r-2'L:
Th graceful - gown shown In figure
C 1 of foulard satin trimmed with wide
atln braid. It illustrate th short
walsted empire affect with the princes
cut an1 ! tha n nolnted train and
Th gown shown in flgura B 1 may-be -Wmo,t fltt, .icTher 1 a square
o'rVu.T S": abrmoU."tn5 acro th back d aoroM
form! mm in the ml banana-colored lut jronw Miuinw himimhiih. v..-
vey me impression ox a not t wjmiv
bolero. These forms are carried out by
mean of on wide braid across lh hack
and bottom of the-front, and two on the
sides of th bolero drapery. Thia ha
cloth of which It I built here, and noth
,A , . , HI..I..4
.VuiHi, wiMiw Ing It simplicity. ...
: ; It ha a stock and Vok of point lace,
a t- which 1 quit deep in front and very
rrtt v a a u- ' shallow In th back, A shaped pleeo of ft ,qUare panel front of combined hon-
Klfect Froaucea Dy doth. Ilk a collar, forms th top of the . lton nd Flemlnh. lac with diamonds
' the 1 Use of Wide sown and slopes dow.n th front all th nd triangle of eut.vlvt, th whol
t ..vray to in deep nem or tn siart, mis mounted upon a chiffon foundation.
... uown. v pani aown xn ironx. wiui a seara in Vel Wnh a sUght bit of stiffening under
: th center which open over lac upon th foulard to keep th pieces in ahap.
; V " "" hs bodice. All the dge are -stitched Th outside braid around th bolero f-
seversj times, ana tn ia seam . nav f ect hang loo ovr' th shoulder and
also a double tow of titchlng,- Th -Anmn ih ld jif tha front-lumina
ls Tancr OI th aav la mora tar - , . . ... . . . - . - ..,, -i.i.k.i...M . . "
rative effect carried out! In hand m- w ? . " may i- ji momma ana lor , , ' ' ' . . . . , ; . o -n 1Se or th. own lhan somewhat loose- near th. corner of th bolero quar and
hrnMxrv nr hnM4 v. upna m jacaeu .a- . ... mor normal aiiernoon use, ana ix - iy, in jsmpir erieoi, ana DranaenDur
Pre u..ful ma-;e of pal. tint, or with much .Ub.tb.dra.. from fg -.f-J" .,'"1 &tt.t2f
emDroiaery, or in material or the drea w.wnica 10 duuq iniormu aiier- oration is jui u innn a gown as counj . m-t-riaii , .""." " " u ' ioui ui 1.110 imn, viwrrwunrarnmiw
Wmblned with lMerere'areTTndeedToonTtownraree 14 or IS lncne whan the ma- ?5 tha E?"1 which cover the top of baclf and. with another braid. Interlace
a hundred ways of making up smart flowered chiffons, plain chiffons, crepe- it Is made of black liberty Satin In an r . V,.ht UBOn h facina with . Z 11 , ,n very large reea ooraer nai
and attractlv dresse for informal de-chines, pongee and other soft-Uke -moire. Drincess effect Almost anv ?VJAA"rAdpoB"i T?21 Tri. oral times. The bottoms of the sleeves tends to the back panel on th train.
afternoon wear. Every woman strive of th pongee variety. . Among these other color may be used and any other ,. V..?,, . Ti- ..- . urh.r.,,:n,?a V"a?r .aJ) curr C"? Th back of th gown ha braid down
" - - in iu, vcwa wiiu.,iiuui,, iu aii .inn iinji TTRnnmv rran ft iur mu.
and lover.
It I that .early, lost happiness she
regrets hut th friends who recollect
th yaVe of misery she ndurd (not
silently) with th obsessed gambler
and drunkard cannot sympathise with
her lamentation for th day gon.
I know" woman who 1 always cry
ing for the past yet la all th many
years of my aequalntano with her he
ha never enjoyed a present, time.
Tim to b beautiful In her eyes
must always b . regarded . over her
houlder. 1 .. v :. ;: ; .
sklit, wliei the mld tarns) Thr are' hearts -whluh have been
wrencnen by earthquake sorrows, and
to have some touch of originality in th materials there will b selection enough soft material. Tha front panel ha
trimming of her bodice and brings this
anout with hralds, twists of ribbons,
folds, lace, embroidery and the applica
tion tf the numerous forms of separate
trimmings which may be combined with
the other trimmings upon a garment
AH sortn of combinations sre permissi
ble provided they are harmonious.
to suit the poor woman and tha rich corded seams down each side, and tha
one; the one whose gown may wear out darta, which extend from the buat to
Immediately and she (who likes a soft below the hip, ar also corded and
ilk or veiling that may be washed and show pleat where they ar released,
turned ttn Its daya ar numbered. They Th back panel la mad In a" similar
come In all prlcea and all ar smart for fashion, and fasten with tiny hook un-
the purpose, so that a woman la equally "der th cord in th seam. This method
Ilk with taffeta ruffle.
A small guipure jacket cover th low
neck and top lining of the bodloe, quite
conoealing It and thi Jacket 1 finished
with dangles and ornament. In black
Ished with a lac puff and frill. One of ir decoration mad of ah braid, that
th brandenburg trims th laoe cuff. , frame a shallow quare lac yokaT Th
Thre row of stitching run around gowa fastens down th mlddl pf th
tn edge or tn collar part or tn panel, back.
Ith Irregular
or foulard
of th back Is also ' stitched .. several set In a laca band abov th braid.
W, .- I?h -iid.: th. h,oh crosses th top of th back Ilk. Th. sleeve is trimmed wit
kIS T.tli fJ5t ? r-JJth.. . ., a shallow yoke. The seam In th middle medallions of either velvet
back and front. Th front ha a square . . - ,fi,.v. 1 . ..., .,..
The-Vogue for Corselet 3ownsr
( There Is a decided vogue for correlet
gown which are skirts that begin Just
t below the buat and carry out long prin-t-
-cess or Empire llnee. These are worn
- "over lace bodice more often than wltn
bodice of the material. The ace
"- . bodices are touched with the dress ma
terial about the sleeves and upper por
, . tlon and have a belt that harmonises
. with the skirt. Frequently the lace Is
rf . arranged to droop lust over th top of
' th corselet skirt and conceal where It
" begins, but this must be don carefully
j " to escape the baggy effect which none
,t of the new bodice should possess.
- "Th majority of the corselet skirts
, ere mad tn th. fitted prlncens style.
Thi may e said oJ most -of, the -affj.
v noon gowns, for it is evident that dur--
Ing this season Kmplr gowns, unless
much modified, will not prevail.. Amerl-
1 ntm si.m.a . will' wet wweitheui
dr tn. cord in in. seam. Thi metnoa .v, (,, . -,!,, nt i-t rni.ntlllv WI is mo buiqbto - wicnu mix in a iac nana bdot. io ormiu.
well gowned in anv on of them. - of fastening make th gown aDDear a .' '."V.w - ".H-A. ;. time, and th dress la fastaned under It Heavy lac finishes th sleeve showing
A usual., shoes must match th though ther .were no opening Jl -lUimnannim hzraam tha m(di. 'th small hooks. Bl row of stitching "beneath tts lrretrular outlines a frill -of
flreaea. although, if this prove I6rr--ililc lh. whalebones under th hook?;"'",, J .tweaiTtha lacket f ronts. trim th hem. - Thi gown may b mad very transparent laca. Th simplicity
penslv. black ehoe may be worn with and aye prevent any wrinkle of th. 1 . uoa,uw """V"" ... of silk or veiling, and may be trimmed of th gown makes It auitabl for any
pat to match tha gown. The may material. Four narrow tuck begin e-v c rt Ttiilli1lnr of a Good Oown. wltl1 rald or embroidery Instead or purpose according to the coloring used
me mad of a pleo of th gown or may at th top of th. skirt on a line with DC ora" ouuuu1 w wwu atltchlng. Of course, th cloth I very in th making of It. It could not
b purchased In th sara tint. - th underarm.' The run clos together ' The sleeve has a small puff attached light In weight, and for warm weather b made succeafully of wash materials.
Figure A illustrates , an admirable at the waist line, giving a slender ap- to Chantllly lac. Abov a tucked cuff thin veiling or silk would be much bet- except In voile and silks,
gown for Informal afternoon wear. It pearanc to It, and than spread out of Chantllly 1 a band of gulpur deor tr, -r.:.:. . . , f JOSEF A WILSON OSBORN,
modified Kmplr ahows more of the
' lines of -the figure' than the French
Rmpire gown pretend to do. This modl-
fled. Empire gown Is so difficult thai
, t would not advise an amateur to at-
tempt - to
' Kmplr gown for house, evening and
neglige wear Is easily made at horn
' by the unskilled needlewoman with
' some idea of shaping a gown; hut the
partly fitted Empire, which I used for
day wear out of doors, I the most
baffling, garment that the modiste ha
to deal with. Its line ar uggetlons
of a clinging prlnceaa, which hangs
close to ths figure without
. 0om of the trimmings now ln vogue
i ar ao expenalvs and troublesome to
inak that I would suggest to th ama
teur dressmaker th use ;of bralda.
They ar very much worn, very smart
anil can be manipulated charmingly. It
do-not- require any previous knowledge
to sew on braids, except that th horn
tieedlewoman should femember hot to
paU the braid la sewing it on a skirt,
. t t
... t .... .
(Continued ' From " Firt Fag "of " This
aaclionj.-. .
In 189( ther were 20 woman serving
as county superlntendontf of schools
nil fifil on various anhonl boa ids Four
years later an Incomplete canvass
showed tit office on. woman a clerk
of th district court, two as county
clerks, seven a registers of deads and
17 ss county superintendent of schools.
. Mora I
elected to th office of mayor In tha
smaller Kansas town. In several In
stances entire boards of aldermen have
been composedTof women. .
Mr. Mary V. liowman served two
terms a mayor of Oskaloqsa, sup
ported by boards of aldermen composed
entirely of her own sex. -8h declined
a third term, which waa tendered, say
ing that She and her associate hadMc-
heomptlshed the work they bad et out
w no. . -
These women did much In th way of
tract and other improvements, and left
In th municipal treasury more money
than they had found there. ,
A similar record wa mad. by Mrs.
Antoinette. Haskell of Oaylocd,. who was
supported by a local legislative" branch
cotnKaed of women.
Female uf f raglsta however, are by
no means content with th advance
made and tha victoria won for their
cause. They have recently aeoured the
pasaag through th Rhode Island son
ata of a bill extending them the ballot
inT"TreStdentlBt"Ttection. In Pennsyr
vanla they are, circulating-petition to
th next legislature of th tat aaking
the same , privilege.,
Th Chicago woman' club ha mad
an earnest campaign to have a munic
ipal suffrage provision inserted fn th
nw charter for that city. - - : -Th
battle now In progress In Waah
Ington la on of the moat bitter the
woman suffragists . have yet waged.
Th leaders In th movement through
out th United State ar concentrating
very effort therol
. It I not only in thi country, Aus
tralia and New Zealand that woman suf
fragists bava won notable Victoria dur
ing recent yara. Throughout Great
Britain woman now vote for all election
officer, except member of parliament.
In th 11 of. Man and Pltcalrn Island
they nJoy full suffrage.
Since IStS French women engaged In
commercial pursuits have been permit
ted to vote for Judges of th tribunals
of commerce. In Norway and Dweden
women vote for. all eleotlve' off leer ex;
cept member of parliament. '
Finland permit Its women ' to cast
a their ballots atalj election; Xmal
householders of Russia vote for all
elective officers and on all local mat
ter. Property-holding women In Waat
phalla, Bchleawlg-Holateln and Bruns
wick, Germany, may vot by proxy at
local election and for member of pro
vincial diet. ;..:;" :
Saxony goe a step farther; Ha
women cast their ballot on th same
proxy, single ones directly. Women in
Moravia hav - municipal auffrag by
proxy? those of Bohemia "Who ar
landed proprietors vot by proxy for
member of th imperial parliament and
cftl fllnl. , .
Crotlan and Dalmatian women vot at
local election In person; those of Austria-Hungary
cast ballot by proxy for
all elective officers. Italian , widows
with property ar permitted to record
by proxies their choice for member
of parliament. '
Swiss femal. real .stat owners hav
local suffrage In th canton of Berne,
and women taxpayer of Roumanla vot
by proxy In municipal elections.
Coming nearer home. It la found that
th province of Canada accord munic
ipal auffrag to widow and unmarried
women possessing property, . . . '
Seventy years ago, women could not
vot.. anywhere, Kentucky started th
equal-franchise -movement In Ml by
giving school suffrage to widow. Ther
wag no real leader of the movement un-1
. , .:; , .!-.-.-).-. . . -.
(.Oepyrlgnt, jBOe. hr ASMrlAaJooraal-Examlner)
By JSlla Wheeler Wlleo.
N a very beautiful sonnet Mrs. C
I K. Whlton-Stons voice sorrow in
. th spring of, the yar. I glv th
onnet In full: .
O jonquils, flaming,-prophets-of . tha
0 bloom, the o-
ave u preach'
- -ond time
Sine my beloved died,' ye com sublime
With resurrection, earth transfiguring, -As
if y strove in bom sweet way to
- bring
rfcreath ofl)eallng from his deathless
This Is exquisite verse, and It was
written from a full heart, a Mrs. Whit-on-aton
had met' with Irreparable earth
ly loss, th loss of a perfect mat.
I But I amulng -the last ilne- of thi
poem at a.-tex t for a Httl sermon to
A hint of hop to which my soul might
cling '
And yet I cannot welcome,' for y draw
From. light of sun he could,
your gold, --,
And faithless, ye seam waiting but to
strew .
Tour heart' dead petal wher ye brake
th mould. .
til th late Busan B. Anthony became
th earnest champion, of equal rights
some SO years ago, - ...'
The results since then, a summarised
above, ar vastly encouraging to hoa
who demand that woman shall be ac
corded all the privileges that man en-
lor-:: ... : . t ,. .-J. - "
What, with your' vaunted hop," hav 1
..... to do?
Not a new spring I covet hut th old.
mshy women I know who have nof meT
with suTh a loss, yet who go about th
world forever seeking, "Not a new
spring, but th old.'
And many of theae old spring con
women " who "r.greft
talned no happlneaa at the time of their
blossoming for the
Ther waa on woman of my acquaint
ance who for" years bora th eras of a
suicidally tnsans father. Not alone sui
cidal, but murderous, he waa closely
confined In a retreat for th sane; , th
daughter felt herself a martyr, chosen
by an -unkind fate, to bear such a sorrow,
and, not possessing much of this world's
goods, eh wag obliged- to toll and arn
mosey to uppot uheT unfortunate par
ent. . : - : . ' . t
.Tat. when kind death at last set th
sad soul free, th daughter went about
in heavy crepe, and her whole deport
ment said, "Not a new Spring I covet,
but tha old." Though a believer In Im
mortality, she waa constantly bemoan
ing th 'loss" of her "dear father."
Shore waa another woman who kept
her friends In tears over her nnhappyj
ura with a drinking husband for years.
Not only did h drink to excess, but
he gambled away all his earnings, and
Anally died of a lingering Illness, leav-1
ing bis wire to support herself as beet
ah might. ' j
Thia h does successfully, bat her
cry la forever now, "Not a new spring
I covt, but the old." .-r -1
-. Unquestionably her memory goes back
to the days of her honeymoon and the
hours of happiness' sh enjoyed before
-thedrink demon dlsposssd th man
for a tlm at least ar incapabl of any
motion hut regret for what Is gon.
This talk 1 not Intended as reproach
for auoh mourners, il:: j
It Is my privilege to personally know
tli author of th poem quoted, and I
know that she haa suffered a great logs',
yet she seeks for vry sunbeam ah.
can find to lighten her shadowed way,
and sh look forward to a reunion In
realm of spiritual spring while ah.
voices her eorrow for the earthly aprtng
of companionship which Is lost "to her.
For real grief, for real loss.. I hav
very sympathy, but because there la so
much real loss In the world It see me
little short of sinful to exaggerate
leaser trouble and elevate them to the
plaoe In th heart which should b re
served for aacrad sorrow..
And It seems a dangerous as It I
wicked. I would be afraid to spoil on
hour of this wonderful life by regret
ting any season which I had not at tha
time declared to be happy . and blast
and beautiful. -
i I believe our unseen friend ar dis
pleased by such utter lack of trust and
reason on th part of mortals, and tha
heart which - wilt - not find happlneaa In
any time, or possession, until it Is gon
will have to be disciplined by new and
greater sorrow until It learns the grant
lessons of resignation and submission..
TOP, Waste tins, .! VlJI i" grief- T
hav no doubt there were thousand, of
people In San Francisco on th. Seven
teenth of April who believed themselves
unhappy and were full of discontent at
th "nw prlng" offered by th year,
1 ellodejr .lntheinldt jjwrck Jnd
ruin and anguish, beyond word to de
scribe, th conditions surrounding them
on that seventeenth of April would
seem heavenly happiness. .
Let each on of u b careful how w
Ignore th blessings of tha now.
j Appropriate Tin. -
BarYa. mt Orat volume waa en-f
- rnvma ok Loiiaooua. . now l mm
getting eat another vnlnma.
mim rurxer as, "reesM ea Beeoae Child
hood," I preenniet . . ... .
(Vrtltreets have he let Ynr (he ennatraetlna
tB Wanhlnftnn parUb, Loetataaa. at th largeet
wmiii is ua worm. id mm will im en
tirely el eteel an ronerete contraction, nailer,
atend to b tt only, one of Its kind la th
United State, and will have ea annual eanarttv
of 10,000.000 feet. The entire plant Will seat
la U aelgbheraesd f t00KM.