7.". THE OREGQNUND AX JOURNAL, POSTLA14 UNO AY MORWIMOr- THE VALLEY DROOX : . . - . .TrT ; ' . .V . I h: v v-.-. iiv".7.. :iA"'i-: . .. . Smart Afternoon Gowns, However informal, Must Have Shoes or Spats to Mtch .. The All-filacK Clown Extreme fir, Smart H FTERNOON gowns 7 T divided Into two olaa. those - for formal occasion and thos for informal occasion!. - Th former are very elaborate affalra whlla tha latter rr -comparatively- almple. JTh Jnfprnilajrte worn for a variety of purpose, whloh makes tt practical, especially, as It mar taka the place of tb mora -aiaborata - town for formal function if ion ha . aot a large wardrobe. While we are copying tha French """"" qalte closely this season in our ehlo .froc,ka.we differ . fromthei,flliUncUjf:j v in our moan ui armini lor me aner- nnaa, IJMX.JsJLjsk-.it.tsiPRtx.,ln. the outline of day clothes for the two nations. The Frenchwoman dresses in -. -r- tna morning In gowns which are almost i . severely simple, and makes a special toilette lor ua arternoon. which I-very ----- handsome and elaborate. The American :. .yam an. on the contrary, likes to make one toiietis ror in any: Thnrciistom" -iwJhs.Jbe.!harnean of introducing ; among us'an entirely new style of dreaa. , It U a style simpler than tb after noon gowa of tba Frenchwoman and .. more elaborate than her morning gown over are. Thi gown is ' universally American and, because it serves duty - In both the morning and afternoon, is a favorite form of dress, and quit an - economy, too, for It save tha coat of a second dress for either morning or afternoon wear.' Our Informal afternoon gown la. therefore, distinctly American, although It line are French, - i,-; ,-. . "Shah My Gown Train or Not?" ' The reason for this Is simple enough. The, French woman lunches at home. If she goea out in tha morning aha returns . home for luncheon, while the American woman follow just th opposite course. When she goes out In the morning she , ' Invariably lunches with a friend or at a restaurant Th fact that she mean to do this lead her to- doa a dress suffW eiently elaborate for a quiet luncheon and yet plain enough not to ba consplou- ,us upon an expedition to the shops. . - The style of this informal afternoon gown la individual, and women often. . therefore, become confused as to It ' .....,. proper lengths -'Should my gown train or notf they ask me constantly. -' ' Happily there 1 a choice In this re- L - nct. Gowns may be either trained for afternoon wear or short, provided they ' : . are not too short Th senaibl reallv - .... short gowns which ws wore two seasons i ago nave given place to the so-called short gown which escapes the around i-all around,- but which la -of -very little--- i practical use in sloppy weather.. Irf these gowns the tendency Is to have the topa of them very much trimmed and the skirt quit plain. In- deed, the simpler th skirts the better, r sines trimming breaks th graceful llnee in wnicnr tney-ar cut. Only- a tall woman-catr trrotr really well in a much urimmea skirt, ' Tb coats or bodice of afternoon - gowns are embroidered or braided or trimmed In some pretty fashion, but -C , f -k .-.",.. - i :. . - S f r ' i .. ... kX ' . ,7,t. J i it r '-w"- 1 m t in it . I'"'- A W f FC2..,nt:3 pAS'c::cr:c3rD l . , v 'I W f . , ai.' J it-. , ai M ,m -. mi - w i . .- . . i -j-i j: M.I iii sjej a. -i-l .iqw i-w- sbbbbbbbbbb . .ifTiiHMii ',' d ar, at ifja t - is a l ?i ... a ---" f" ' TB T m t Esrnr Wit:: w-a-iw,... .: ,... imi' .,ti r - . piii b i ii ii i w hi niiw i 3i im . j ii.r u em m 1 i i i i .......... 1 lr rw W a - rVw. --- - - noon-Gown in Ba. i r wi. 'mm m,YN. . .. Coior, showing By John Howard Drytnt. RESH from the fountains of wood A rivulet of tha valley cama, " 11 r ' - And elided on for many a rood, ' Flushed with the morning's ruddy name. , The air was fresh and toft and sweet; . . , , " The slopes In spring's new verdure lay, i . 'And we with depdrops at my feet ', ' r.'f? Bloomed, the young1 violet of May. . - No sound of busy life was heard . Amid those pastures lone and still; -; 1 , '7 Save the faint chirp of early bird, ; - - , U Or. bleat of flocks along the hill.- ; I traced that rivulet's winding way? t v ' J , , ( New scenes of beauty opened round, " t '!.' Where meads of brighter verdure lay, : 7 And lovelier blossoms tinged the ground." '-Vl '1. 'Jih,htp9T valley streamr ''tti 'Jfl'y : J ' uaim guaes my waw amia tne owers, v . Whose fragrance round tlfy path is shed .' Through all the joyous summer hours. ; "O could my years,' like thine; be' passed 4 -r In some remote and silent glen . -jj v Where I could dwell and sleep at last, , Far from the bustling haunt of men P ,'':".'af ' ' : -'.vV : But wha new echoes greet my earr - The village school-boy's merpr call; ; And mid the village hum I hear: : r The murmur of the waterfalL'''l;t'.i';..4 . I looked: the widening veil betrayed v: V , A ' -A pool that shone like burnished steal, V . ' Where that bright valley stream was stayed T , To 4uri th-milUt' ponderous "wheel. - 4. 1. ' Ah I why should I, I thought with shame, ' igh for a life of solitude, . : A . ; - i When even this stream without a name . . Is laboring for the common good. . ; No longer Jet me shun my part v ; " Amidthe-bOTy"cene-offife,-v But with a warm and generous heart Press onward in the glorious strif "MY-WIFE." f.X i -. V . .'i . f s. 1 y; f ; - By Robert Louis SterensoiL Trusty dusky, vivid, true, With eyes of gold and bramble dew, ; Steel true and blade straight, ' . -rv The great Artificer ...yi-': Made my mate. '-, Honor,' anger, valor, fire;" TT:r A love that life could nevertlre, Death quench or evil stir,: '- '" . - The mighty Mister . ":WT Gave to her, ..v ;''v 'y-'' , "', Teacher,' tender comrtde, wife,'. A fellow farer true through life, Heart wnoie ana soui tree, , : The august Father - ' Gave to me. '.' ..'r-2'L: . Th graceful - gown shown In figure C 1 of foulard satin trimmed with wide atln braid. It illustrate th short walsted empire affect with the princes cut an1 ! tha n nolnted train and Th gown shown in flgura B 1 may-be -Wmo,t fltt, .icTher 1 a square o'rVu.T S": abrmoU."tn5 acro th back d aoroM form! mm in the ml banana-colored lut jronw Miuinw himimhiih. v..- vey me impression ox a not t wjmiv bolero. These forms are carried out by mean of on wide braid across lh hack and bottom of the-front, and two on the sides of th bolero drapery. Thia ha cloth of which It I built here, and noth ,A , . , HI..I..4 .VuiHi, wiMiw Ing It simplicity. ... : ; It ha a stock and Vok of point lace, a t- which 1 quit deep in front and very rrtt v a a u- ' shallow In th back, A shaped pleeo of ft ,qUare panel front of combined hon- Klfect Froaucea Dy doth. Ilk a collar, forms th top of the . lton nd Flemlnh. lac with diamonds ' the 1 Use of Wide sown and slopes dow.n th front all th nd triangle of eut.vlvt, th whol t ..vray to in deep nem or tn siart, mis mounted upon a chiffon foundation. ... uown. v pani aown xn ironx. wiui a seara in Vel Wnh a sUght bit of stiffening under : th center which open over lac upon th foulard to keep th pieces in ahap. ; V " "" hs bodice. All the dge are -stitched Th outside braid around th bolero f- seversj times, ana tn ia seam . nav f ect hang loo ovr' th shoulder and also a double tow of titchlng,- Th -Anmn ih ld jif tha front-lumina ls Tancr OI th aav la mora tar - , . . ... . . . - . - ..,, -i.i.k.i...M . . " rative effect carried out! In hand m- w ? . " may i- ji momma ana lor , , ' ' ' . . . . , ; . o -n 1Se or th. own lhan somewhat loose- near th. corner of th bolero quar and hrnMxrv nr hnM4 v. upna m jacaeu .a- . ... mor normal aiiernoon use, ana ix - iy, in jsmpir erieoi, ana DranaenDur Pre u..ful ma-;e of pal. tint, or with much .Ub.tb.dra.. from fg -.f-J" .,'"1 &tt.t2f emDroiaery, or in material or the drea w.wnica 10 duuq iniormu aiier- oration is jui u innn a gown as counj . m-t-riaii , .""." " " u ' ioui ui 1.110 imn, viwrrwunrarnmiw Wmblned with lMerere'areTTndeedToonTtownraree 14 or IS lncne whan the ma- ?5 tha E?"1 which cover the top of baclf and. with another braid. Interlace a hundred ways of making up smart flowered chiffons, plain chiffons, crepe- it Is made of black liberty Satin In an r . V,.ht UBOn h facina with . Z 11 , ,n very large reea ooraer nai and attractlv dresse for informal de-chines, pongee and other soft-Uke -moire. Drincess effect Almost anv ?VJAA"rAdpoB"i T?21 Tri. oral times. The bottoms of the sleeves tends to the back panel on th train. afternoon wear. Every woman strive of th pongee variety. . Among these other color may be used and any other ,. V..?,, . Ti- ..- . urh.r.,,:n,?a V"a?r .aJ) curr C"? Th back of th gown ha braid down " - - in iu, vcwa wiiu. vi.nu,iiuui,, iu aii .inn iinji TTRnnmv rran ft iur mu. and lover. It I that .early, lost happiness she regrets hut th friends who recollect th yaVe of misery she ndurd (not silently) with th obsessed gambler and drunkard cannot sympathise with her lamentation for th day gon. I know" woman who 1 always cry ing for the past yet la all th many years of my aequalntano with her he ha never enjoyed a present, time. Tim to b beautiful In her eyes must always b . regarded . over her houlder. 1 .. v :. ;: ; . sklit, wliei the mld tarns) Thr are' hearts -whluh have been wrencnen by earthquake sorrows, and to have some touch of originality in th materials there will b selection enough soft material. Tha front panel ha trimming of her bodice and brings this anout with hralds, twists of ribbons, folds, lace, embroidery and the applica tion tf the numerous forms of separate trimmings which may be combined with the other trimmings upon a garment AH sortn of combinations sre permissi ble provided they are harmonious. to suit the poor woman and tha rich corded seams down each side, and tha one; the one whose gown may wear out darta, which extend from the buat to Immediately and she (who likes a soft below the hip, ar also corded and ilk or veiling that may be washed and show pleat where they ar released, turned ttn Its daya ar numbered. They Th back panel la mad In a" similar come In all prlcea and all ar smart for fashion, and fasten with tiny hook un- the purpose, so that a woman la equally "der th cord in th seam. This method Ilk with taffeta ruffle. A small guipure jacket cover th low neck and top lining of the bodloe, quite conoealing It and thi Jacket 1 finished with dangles and ornament. In black Ished with a lac puff and frill. One of ir decoration mad of ah braid, that th brandenburg trims th laoe cuff. , frame a shallow quare lac yokaT Th Thre row of stitching run around gowa fastens down th mlddl pf th tn edge or tn collar part or tn panel, back. Ith Irregular or foulard of th back Is also ' stitched .. several set In a laca band abov th braid. W, .- I?h -iid.: th. h,oh crosses th top of th back Ilk. Th. sleeve is trimmed wit kIS T.tli fJ5t ? r-JJth.. . ., a shallow yoke. The seam In th middle medallions of either velvet back and front. Th front ha a square . . - ,fi,.v. 1 . ..., .,.. The-Vogue for Corselet 3ownsr ( There Is a decided vogue for correlet gown which are skirts that begin Just t below the buat and carry out long prin-t- -cess or Empire llnee. These are worn - "over lace bodice more often than wltn bodice of the material. The ace "- . bodices are touched with the dress ma terial about the sleeves and upper por , . tlon and have a belt that harmonises . with the skirt. Frequently the lace Is rf . arranged to droop lust over th top of ' th corselet skirt and conceal where It " begins, but this must be don carefully j " to escape the baggy effect which none ,t of the new bodice should possess. - "Th majority of the corselet skirts , ere mad tn th. fitted prlncens style. Thi may e said oJ most -of, the -affj. v noon gowns, for it is evident that dur-- Ing this season Kmplr gowns, unless much modified, will not prevail.. Amerl- 1 ntm si.m.a . will' wet wweitheui dr tn. cord in in. seam. Thi metnoa .v, (,, . -,!,, nt i-t rni.ntlllv WI is mo buiqbto - wicnu mix in a iac nana bdot. io ormiu. well gowned in anv on of them. - of fastening make th gown aDDear a .' '."V.w - ".H-A. ;. time, and th dress la fastaned under It Heavy lac finishes th sleeve showing A usual., shoes must match th though ther .were no opening Jl -lUimnannim hzraam tha m(di. 'th small hooks. Bl row of stitching "beneath tts lrretrular outlines a frill -of flreaea. although, if this prove I6rr--ililc lh. whalebones under th hook?;"'",, J .tweaiTtha lacket f ronts. trim th hem. - Thi gown may b mad very transparent laca. Th simplicity penslv. black ehoe may be worn with and aye prevent any wrinkle of th. 1 . uoa,uw """V"" ... of silk or veiling, and may be trimmed of th gown makes It auitabl for any pat to match tha gown. The may material. Four narrow tuck begin e-v c rt Ttiilli1lnr of a Good Oown. wltl1 rald or embroidery Instead or purpose according to the coloring used me mad of a pleo of th gown or may at th top of th. skirt on a line with DC ora" ouuuu1 w wwu atltchlng. Of course, th cloth I very in th making of It. It could not b purchased In th sara tint. - th underarm.' The run clos together ' The sleeve has a small puff attached light In weight, and for warm weather b made succeafully of wash materials. Figure A illustrates , an admirable at the waist line, giving a slender ap- to Chantllly lac. Abov a tucked cuff thin veiling or silk would be much bet- except In voile and silks, gown for Informal afternoon wear. It pearanc to It, and than spread out of Chantllly 1 a band of gulpur deor tr, -r.:.:. . . , f JOSEF A WILSON OSBORN, The- modified Kmplr ahows more of the ' lines of -the figure' than the French Rmpire gown pretend to do. This modl- fled. Empire gown Is so difficult thai , t would not advise an amateur to at- tempt - to ' Kmplr gown for house, evening and neglige wear Is easily made at horn ' by the unskilled needlewoman with ' some idea of shaping a gown; hut the partly fitted Empire, which I used for day wear out of doors, I the most baffling, garment that the modiste ha to deal with. Its line ar uggetlons of a clinging prlnceaa, which hangs close to ths figure without tourhlng.lt. . 0om of the trimmings now ln vogue i ar ao expenalvs and troublesome to inak that I would suggest to th ama teur dressmaker th use ;of bralda. They ar very much worn, very smart anil can be manipulated charmingly. It do-not- require any previous knowledge to sew on braids, except that th horn tieedlewoman should femember hot to paU the braid la sewing it on a skirt, WHAT HAS BEEN ACCOMPLISHED FOP WOMAN SUFFRAGE . t t ... t .... . (Continued ' From " Firt Fag "of " This aaclionj.-. . In 189( ther were 20 woman serving as county superlntendontf of schools nil fifil on various anhonl boa ids Four years later an Incomplete canvass showed tit office on. woman a clerk of th district court, two as county clerks, seven a registers of deads and 17 ss county superintendent of schools. . Mora I elected to th office of mayor In tha smaller Kansas town. In several In stances entire boards of aldermen have been composedTof women. . Mr. Mary V. liowman served two terms a mayor of Oskaloqsa, sup ported by boards of aldermen composed entirely of her own sex. -8h declined a third term, which waa tendered, say ing that She and her associate hadMc- heomptlshed the work they bad et out w no. . - These women did much In th way of tract and other improvements, and left In th municipal treasury more money than they had found there. , A similar record wa mad. by Mrs. Antoinette. Haskell of Oaylocd,. who was supported by a local legislative" branch cotnKaed of women. Female uf f raglsta however, are by no means content with th advance made and tha victoria won for their cause. They have recently aeoured the pasaag through th Rhode Island son ata of a bill extending them the ballot inT"TreStdentlBt"Ttection. In Pennsyr vanla they are, circulating-petition to th next legislature of th tat aaking the same , privilege., Th Chicago woman' club ha mad an earnest campaign to have a munic ipal suffrage provision inserted fn th nw charter for that city. - - : -Th battle now In progress In Waah Ington la on of the moat bitter the woman suffragists . have yet waged. Th leaders In th movement through out th United State ar concentrating very effort therol . It I not only in thi country, Aus tralia and New Zealand that woman suf fragists bava won notable Victoria dur ing recent yara. Throughout Great Britain woman now vote for all election officer, except member of parliament. In th 11 of. Man and Pltcalrn Island they nJoy full suffrage. Since IStS French women engaged In commercial pursuits have been permit ted to vote for Judges of th tribunals of commerce. In Norway and Dweden women vote for. all eleotlve' off leer ex; cept member of parliament. ' Finland permit Its women ' to cast a their ballots atalj election; Xmal householders of Russia vote for all elective officers and on all local mat ter. Property-holding women In Waat phalla, Bchleawlg-Holateln and Bruns wick, Germany, may vot by proxy at local election and for member of pro vincial diet. ;..:;" : Saxony goe a step farther; Ha women cast their ballot on th same proxy, single ones directly. Women in Moravia hav - municipal auffrag by proxy? those of Bohemia "Who ar landed proprietors vot by proxy for member of th imperial parliament and cftl fllnl. , . Crotlan and Dalmatian women vot at local election In person; those of Austria-Hungary cast ballot by proxy for all elective officers. Italian , widows with property ar permitted to record by proxies their choice for member of parliament. ' Swiss femal. real .stat owners hav local suffrage In th canton of Berne, and women taxpayer of Roumanla vot by proxy In municipal elections. Coming nearer home. It la found that th province of Canada accord munic ipal auffrag to widow and unmarried women possessing property, . . . ' Seventy years ago, women could not vot.. anywhere, Kentucky started th equal-franchise -movement In Ml by giving school suffrage to widow. Ther wag no real leader of the movement un-1 SEEK THE SUNBEAMS IN LIFE . , .:; , .!-.-.-).-. . . -. (.Oepyrlgnt, jBOe. hr ASMrlAaJooraal-Examlner) By JSlla Wheeler Wlleo. N a very beautiful sonnet Mrs. C I K. Whlton-Stons voice sorrow in . th spring of, the yar. I glv th onnet In full: . O jonquils, flaming,-prophets-of . tha sprln 0 bloom, the o- ave u preach' - -ond time Sine my beloved died,' ye com sublime With resurrection, earth transfiguring, -As if y strove in bom sweet way to - bring rfcreath ofl)eallng from his deathless clime! This Is exquisite verse, and It was written from a full heart, a Mrs. Whit-on-aton had met' with Irreparable earth ly loss, th loss of a perfect mat. I But I amulng -the last ilne- of thi poem at a.-tex t for a Httl sermon to A hint of hop to which my soul might cling ' And yet I cannot welcome,' for y draw From. light of sun he could not.se, your gold, --, And faithless, ye seam waiting but to strew . Tour heart' dead petal wher ye brake th mould. . til th late Busan B. Anthony became th earnest champion, of equal rights some SO years ago, - ...' The results since then, a summarised above, ar vastly encouraging to hoa who demand that woman shall be ac corded all the privileges that man en- lor-:: ... : . t ,. .-J. - " What, with your' vaunted hop," hav 1 ..... to do? Not a new spring I covet hut th old. mshy women I know who have nof meT with suTh a loss, yet who go about th world forever seeking, "Not a new spring, but th old.' And many of theae old spring con women " who "r.greft talned no happlneaa at the time of their blossoming for the them: Ther waa on woman of my acquaint ance who for" years bora th eras of a suicidally tnsans father. Not alone sui cidal, but murderous, he waa closely confined In a retreat for th sane; , th daughter felt herself a martyr, chosen by an -unkind fate, to bear such a sorrow, and, not possessing much of this world's goods, eh wag obliged- to toll and arn mosey to uppot uheT unfortunate par ent. . : - : . ' . t .Tat. when kind death at last set th sad soul free, th daughter went about in heavy crepe, and her whole deport ment said, "Not a new Spring I covet, but tha old." Though a believer In Im mortality, she waa constantly bemoan ing th 'loss" of her "dear father." Shore waa another woman who kept her friends In tears over her nnhappyj ura with a drinking husband for years. Not only did h drink to excess, but he gambled away all his earnings, and Anally died of a lingering Illness, leav-1 ing bis wire to support herself as beet ah might. ' j Thia h does successfully, bat her cry la forever now, "Not a new spring I covt, but the old." .-r -1 -. Unquestionably her memory goes back to the days of her honeymoon and the hours of happiness' sh enjoyed before -thedrink demon dlsposssd th man for a tlm at least ar incapabl of any motion hut regret for what Is gon. This talk 1 not Intended as reproach for auoh mourners, il:: j It Is my privilege to personally know tli author of th poem quoted, and I know that she haa suffered a great logs', yet she seeks for vry sunbeam ah. can find to lighten her shadowed way, and sh look forward to a reunion In realm of spiritual spring while ah. voices her eorrow for the earthly aprtng of companionship which Is lost "to her. For real grief, for real loss.. I hav very sympathy, but because there la so much real loss In the world It see me little short of sinful to exaggerate leaser trouble and elevate them to the plaoe In th heart which should b re served for aacrad sorrow.. And It seems a dangerous as It I wicked. I would be afraid to spoil on hour of this wonderful life by regret ting any season which I had not at tha time declared to be happy . and blast and beautiful. - i I believe our unseen friend ar dis pleased by such utter lack of trust and reason on th part of mortals, and tha heart which - wilt - not find happlneaa In any time, or possession, until it Is gon will have to be disciplined by new and greater sorrow until It learns the grant lessons of resignation and submission.. TOP, Waste tins, .! VlJI i" grief- T hav no doubt there were thousand, of people In San Francisco on th. Seven teenth of April who believed themselves unhappy and were full of discontent at th "nw prlng" offered by th year, 1 ellodejr .lntheinldt jjwrck Jnd ruin and anguish, beyond word to de scribe, th conditions surrounding them on that seventeenth of April would seem heavenly happiness. . Let each on of u b careful how w Ignore th blessings of tha now. j Appropriate Tin. - BarYa. mt Orat volume waa en-f - rnvma ok Loiiaooua. . now l mm getting eat another vnlnma. mim rurxer as, "reesM ea Beeoae Child hood," I preenniet . . ... . Mr. titled. (Vrtltreets have he let Ynr (he ennatraetlna tB Wanhlnftnn parUb, Loetataaa. at th largeet wmiii is ua worm. id mm will im en tirely el eteel an ronerete contraction, nailer, atend to b tt only, one of Its kind la th United State, and will have ea annual eanarttv of 10,000.000 feet. The entire plant Will seat la U aelgbheraesd f t00KM. r 'TU ) i.