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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 10, 1905)
THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL PORTLAND, : SUNDAY MORNING. DECEMBER 10. 1SCJ. Why Women A' ' rim u I I :!. r i t i t V 1 1 i SeelrBeaut vl II I I. i 4 I.J 1 !f t II; I l: 2' ns j;n ij, ;i?t ' 5 ;I 5 o i ill :i 71 v r-:w: vi tonm :r .; . u YJ V.J 3K 1 i-'V .1 tftoTl 1 'II vvwt si m. e v 1 I 0 is 3 Raw la 0 0 6 0 0 0 bo O 0 0 0; 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 10: olo 1 -olo olo -ok 0 w- ,Xti TO "it 5 'i A 7' FTM, V .- A Smart Long Coat for ' Cloth Gown. '. B Fetching ... Afternoon . - Gown In Chiffon Velvtt . C Princess Gown of Or- Smart Gowns for the Matinee of Much Simpler Character ; Thjan Ever Before SimpKcity the Keynote of Good for Public TTenlirTarrefa: .D Chic Lemon-Colored Clothe y Afternoon or Theatre Gown. SIMPLICITY Is tb keynots of th .new mstlnce toilet. It Is no longer th thins: to wear at the afternoon theatrical performance or at anr of the man? other forms of afternoon " entertainment as elaborate a rown as faahlon still demands for the erenlnr. ' Everr woman knows how to dress for dinner or for a party or a walk, .but few know the correct thing to wear at these entertainments where one does not wish to appear either over or nnder-dressed. Generally speaking, over-dressing at matinees has been only too noticeable . among Americana. People hare, appeared over-dressed at the flower .shows, dog shows, automobile shows and all the ther tnatlnee attractions. . They will go on overdressing at such affairs during . the rest of the winter unless a hint Is dropped to those who do not know the latest flat of fashion and good taste In the matter. ..-. Although held Indoors, flower and ani mal shows are classed under the head of . outdoor sports snd people who know what really smart dressing U gown them selves very simply st nil such affairs. Over-dressing on such occasions is now conflned to people who do not know how . to dress, and the world Is often aston ished at some who come under this head. Good taste Is not an Inherent quality In ' the majority of women, but it becomes second, nature to the woman who culti vates and studies it. ; V For matinees well-gowned women dress very simply and Inconspicuously. Hers clothes are not so predominant a feature as. they formerly were. Everything Is simple and Important. The lines of a gown must be m the highest type ol sartorial art and its complements ex. sctly , what they should be,' from the shoes to the hat, gloves and furs. 1 ' A smart coat to be worn at an after noon theatrical performance Is shown In figure A. This eoat ia also suitable fur afternoon calling, and similar purposes. .-It Js long and la built with four seams In th hack, extending from neck and shoulders to the' hem. The pieces of the roat so seamed together narrow at the waist and are arranged below th hips to allow of full coat vklrts. The eoat haa a whits embroidered stork Snd yoke. Its collar is mads to eoir.e up to the neck on the shoulder seam Snd down in a"K'nt 'lir the-front and back. Th material is dark plum-colorsd cloth, and 4 lighter shsds of this color ia arranged In a fold around ths neck, with a bead of sable fur between It and ths sollar, cut in square tabs In tb treat sad pack. The fronts of ths ooat Si In ths ample folds known to the new cir cular skirt.. -. -; ... . . K, - Figure O Illustrates a princess gown . made of oriental taffeta, which Is soft and clinging, and yet has something of the "bodyi of taffeta, with the fullness Pf the skirt let in below ths hips. The train Is short and the gown la long all arnnnrt. 'sffAr th .tTl. f .11 y . gowns.. , i . -.' 1 This is a smart gown for the matinee or for afternoon calls, and,-llks ths other models Illustrated,-must, be mads up In Cheaper materials. - ' , . .. Around ths skirt at ths knees Is a band "of. puffing edged with quilling. If one pleases ths quilling may be of a con trasting material, such as chiffon, taffeta or lace of the same color as ths gown. The model is of ross color and Is built with a high girdle effect into which are set two wide surplice pieces of ths bodies, edged with quilling like that upon ths skirt Ths waist and slesvss are of cream-colored lace, but they may bo of whits lace or Isce of ths same color. . Another smart dress for ths theatre.' a club reception or afternoon calling pur 'pose la shown In figure D. This may be ' mads in any color and in black would be simple enough for less dressy occasions than the sort mentioned. In this case ths model is built of pals lemon-colored cloth, long all around and trained In ths back. It has two wide, forward-turning pleats, nearly touching In the - skirt center, and trimmed with large "buttons down sach aids. , Larger buttons upon the front of ths jacket appear to be a continuation of these. Ths skirt is pleated to the belt and thess plsats are left unstitched or ars stitcned as far as ths hips, to suit the fancy and figure of the wearer. ..,. . In copying models Illustrated and de scribed on this page It Is. never necessary to use ths earns materials, where one cannot afford cloth and velveti There are many good materials of much lower price, and in selecting thess ons must only remember that eertaln cots of gowns require fabrics of certain stiffness -or softness. ' JOBBFA WILSON OSBOiym button from below ths rsvers,- and may be made with either Invisible fastenings or with two rows of buttons extending to little below the waist line. The sleeve Is laid in three box pleate upon the shoulder, buttoned In the top of each, pleat. The bottom of the sleeve Is . made to appear turned np from ths elbow high up on the arm- This portion Is open In ths back and is fastened to ths sleeve by five buttons on each slds ths open' Ing. A deep fall of lacs Is sewed In side ths bottom of ths sleeve, ' but -'this Is not. an absolutely necessary finish.' : A smart matinee gown and gown for .afternoon calling Is shown In figure B. - It is of royal blus chiffon velvet, built in princess style, with folds-t ths top of the princess skirt, some inches above the waist line, drawn gracefully around the bottom of a "baby - waist" gathered 'under It ' ' ( ; - The top of the' waist Is' plain and fitted -with a strap across ths square-cut neck, held by large buttons on each side. 81ml- -lar buttons trim one side' of the top of the skirt aha also the backs of the cuffs. Two wide folds around . ths shoulder and -middle of ths bodies are matched by similar . folds around ths top and middle of the sleeves. The sleeve folds, -are made to appear con tinuations Of those upon ths bodloe. --The flounces on the skirt, the bottom' one of which resembles a hem, ars bor- xdered by wide folds, In graduated slses, beaded by a piping. Sometimes these pip Inge are of contrasting shsds or color or material. Ths top of ths skirt clings to the figure above the hi us, and than telle I ft- m 83 U.J ? V V &&&& '.- :; ; .: k at ; By Beatrice Fairfax. EVERT woman lorigs to bs beauti ful. She craves beauty because she . desires to find favor In the eyes of man. and she knows that beauty la never unappreciated. ."''' She will suffer pain and discomfort, anything, to be beautiful. - For generations she hag cheerfully submitted to the tortures of ths corset simply because ehe thinks It adda to her beauty. . ' Her life is one long prayer, "Let me be pretty.1 ........ . , There are only two people who really ' appreciate the value of beauty, and they are the woman who ia beautiful and the woman who Is not Ths former is thoroughly aware of the power she wields through ) her beauty; the latter ia fully conscious of , the handicap of her plalnneea. . . Man Is responsible for beauty's power, and yet he Is the first to deny, that beauty ia powerful. Not long ago we ran s series of ar ticles on this page entitled ''Is It Better -for a Woman to Be Wise or Beautiful r I ksked a great many men their opin ions on ths subjsot and almost Invaria bly their answer waa, "It la better to be wise."' ..:"'. - Most of them were married men, and I met several of their wives. With few exceptione the wives were pretty, but I couldn't vouch for the wis dom of some of them. . ... i. And yet not ons of those men would acknowledge the fact that he had been ' swayed more by beauty than-.wladora in selecting a wife. t , - Finally one honest little men piped " In and spoke the truth.' "Men think more of beauty than any thing else." hs stoutly declared. "My wife is wise, but shs's so pretty I think . I would have fallen In love with her If ahe hadn't been a bit wise." . . ' An unmarried man gave me a great dissertation on the value of wisdom," -and yet at the time I happened to know that he was paying, serious attention to a pretty girl with not an ounce of wis- t dom In hsr butterfly-head. i Women knows how man Is swayed, by beauty, and so js It any wonder that " her heart's desire la to be beautiful T Man's theories regarding beauty are very commendable, but that'e ae far as hs gets. Hs theorises, but doesn't prac tice. ' - 1 v. . - ' To all other men- he says, -"Choose wisdom and goodness; as for met I will chooss beauty." ... ".', . Oh, man, man. you are responsible for ' many of the things that you most crit icise in woman.. ;T Tou make fun of her vanities ml r her love of dress, and yet It is to please the eye of the lord of creation that ehe adorns herself. ": ; Woman craves love and admiration. She can't live without It The craving le born in ner, and man by bia slavish, admiration o beauty has fostered It in every wayi Man himself does not long for beauty. ! Hs Is oontsnt to be clean and strong and manly. - - ;' ' 'V- Hs cannot appreciate woman a long ing to be fair of face. . Woman does not demand beauty In a '. man.". '-' '' "'.' . She doee not care how plain hi face is if he le strong and manly, r -The plain, man has Just aa. many women In love wtth.hlm ae the Adonis. But the plain woman must work hard for svsry bit of admiration Shs wins, while the beauty hae but to sit with foldsd hands and eount her slaves by ths score, ' .--..-'" Ami an woman. "tfirOUtll Ut-seilBtluil and experience, has come to set great - store by pereonai beauty. - And who can blame her if ehe spende much of her time in seeking ltT Surely not man. for it le to please him that shs goes on her tlreleee quest Bog That's Proud ef Mia Cloths. t From ths Augusta. Chronicle. , There te a dog : In Augusta ; who dresses Just llks a man. wearing -the regulation eoat veet collar, and cravat ; and le very proud of his apparel, seem ingly, being very much distressed and ashamed whenever his busy master doee not have time to rig him up In his elothee. " ' ' ' If there are any who ere "from Mle souti," thsymsy be satisfied by calling at a blacksmith shop on Ellis street, nesr ths city hall, where they can be Introduced to him by hie master, Oeorgs . Bailey, a negro employe of the smithy. ' He weers them with a eonecloue dig nity and le hugely delighted when any one etope to notice hie attire and com- v ment thereon. He will gase intently et eech spesker and joyously wsg his tslt when complimented upon hie appear ance. - ' ' ; It ie not known what wMm Induced x. the blacksmith to thus cloths his csnlns pet "In all pointe like as ws are." . But he certainly devised ths dog's dress w.n innninnilv. Ko detail is wsnttns. Ths cut of his coat le after the latest mode has pocaets, io me coiiar m nicely laundered and the cravat Is tied with correct emartneee. . . The- first thing In ths morning hs must bs properly dressed, or else he " wblnee plteously. After he has been clothed according to his usual custom lit. Innwi nrt bAunda and he dls- - plays his pleaSurs with much barking and wagging or nia isii. ni n. in. utmost contempt for the host of naked Mr,mm whn nm Mwtiil the street and absolutely refuses to associate with' them, manifesting a spirit or outrageo Indignation at their Immodesty.! ; Our Greatest Arsenal. U. I Oliver In Four-Track Nsws for, - - November. During the .civil war Rock Island was called Into unexpected service. At the very outbreak ef hostilities ths Islead suggestsd Itself as a suttsble place te . care tor the prisoners pf wsr, snd ex tensive barracke were constructed, with a hospitaV'Ofr'ceraV quarters and other necessary buildings. Over 10.000 eon ,. federate prisoners were confined there. Horses was indeed wlss when hs coun seledr to prepare 'for war in times of peaoe, but that advice was disregarded. , and when, lir 1801. war was. declared with Spain, It found ue unprepared, but the- Rock Island arsenal promptly . re- . s ponded to ths calL Ths force of work- men wss Increased from 800 to nearly ' 1,000, and the necessary artlolea. wtre -poured out in like-proportion. Even then It wee 114 daya before the soldiers xjosld -be mede ready for sctlon. Had Spain been In a position to take - advantage, of the delay, our victory might have been less decisive. It is not the object ot thc-areensl to encourage war, hut to prepare for It . when It becomee lnevltebje; in the words of Washington: "To be prepered for i wer le the most effectual means of pre- ssrvlng pesos." V '' Able to Iteport Frogvsss. ' . From the Chicago Tribune. ' 'Jle your bojf getting along Well st ' colleger' , - - . "Tee ae well as could be expected. fie has two fractured rlbe, a broken collar bone, and a dislocated .shoulder. but ths doctor says he'll be out again . la a few weeks." , w ' 1
