The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972, December 25, 1904, Image 62

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PEOPLE ask ma to talk to thorn
about furs And films and furbe
lows. Tbo latter are always
dear to a woman's heart, and the
furs, like fine Jewels, forever a matter
of pride and pleasure.
I think I will talk about furs first, be
cause that is such a snug, warm subject
for a cold day, and, I might mention, a
subject that always represents a snug
Certain furs, like diamonds, are al
ways fashionable. Take, for Instance,
baby lamb and sable, which one might
say almost never go Out of mode.
Although there are standard furs
which It la always good taste to wear,
each season Introduces some fad in fur
which most of those who can afford ex
pensive fads follow.
Last season the fad was for moleskin,
and this season the extreme fashionable
novelty is mixed fur, with a fad for Imi
tation sealskin. This fur Is much pret
tlsr than real seal, but I do not know
from what animal It la taken.
Smart fur mixtures are ermine with
black fox. ermtae and sealskin, chin
chilla with sealskin, and even ermine
with sable, although mingling these two
fine furs seems Ilka "gliding refined
Capes and stoles, both large and small,
are worn with a fancy for ahorfohouider
rapes and long three-quarter length ones.
These last are very smart tola year, es
pecially in seal or sable, and are worn by
women over their smarter gowns when
going to teas or some such form of en
tertainment While shoulder capes sre both stylish
and useful, they are not as practical aa
those which come to the waist. Ilka the
one of black lynx fur Illustrated In Fig.
Thla really somes a trifle below the
waist and furnishes additional warmth
In the two long and wide stoles which
finish It. One can easily fancy what a
cosy carriage wrap thia la, and how eas
ily its large, flat collar could be turned
up on a cold day to protect the ears.
Perhapa even smarter than oapes that
follow the lines of the figure are Im
mense stoles that can be wrapped about
one or thrown loosely across the shoul
ders at win These reach from neck to
waist In the back and hang almost and
sometime quiteto the hem of th skirt
In front.
A Little Fashionable Secret of fun.
The one shown in Fig. B Is of mole
skin, dyed black, and la therefore not
moleskin by a process of reaaontng
known to fashionable folk and very
fetching. The ends of this stole are
drawn together and trimmed with hand
some braid ornaments.
The muff which accompanies this is a
great, big square thing, hung around the
neck by long rlbbona. The ribbon causes
the muff to crush along the top in that
fashionable shape known as the "pillow
muff." though when sny one ever saw a
pillow In that shape I cannot fancy.
Hats f i equently match neckpieces and
muffs and often exhibit on fu trimmed
with another.
Th fad for trimming one fur with an
other shown In Fig. C, a little flat boa
of enrilne with tips of seal.
Still another popular combination 1
shown in Fig. D, a long and only medium
wide stol of sable, with points of er
mine snd tail of th same axqulslt fur.
Th larg muff which match this boa
has item I no around its open ends.
The perfectly flat style of this neck
piece Is In contrast to th round and
fluffy boa Of lynx Illustrated in Fig. E,
and Which Is quit abort, terminating In
a round, busby tall.
Th ultra-faahlonabl fur and ths
ultra-fashionable films, stoles and elab
orate neck wrap of chiffon and other
fancy fabrics are not aa much worn aa
they have been In aeasona past The
elaborate wrap of today demand great
er simplicity in neckwear hjr way of con
trast The exception to thla rule . la to
be found la th lac scarfs which are
thrown around the neck and shoulders in
the evening, and' which prove so flatter
ing and becoming to a woman's face.
Women have for some month past
l.en discovering how much prettier they
look In s soft white tucker of lac than
in ny other finish to th nsok. For this
reason most smart gowns sf finished
with a lac collar or yoke, quite trans
parent and unusually flattering to tbo
skin. Such a yoke effect la shown In
Fig. F, and in this cue the garniture -ie
Intended to be worn ovr a bodice which
must necessarily be quit simple In
order to support such an elaboration.
This yoke piece ha a stock, small
squar back and deep ahleld-ahaped front
formed of a combination of very fine
embroidery and luce Pointed edges of
embroidery are trimmed wltb lac ruf
fles. A lovely shaped piece of lace curves
from th stock and follow the lines of
th embroidered front to a narrow scal
lop at th bottom.
Th necks of gowns are so charmingly
elaborated that a great many thlnga are
worn without any furbelow whatever
around the neck, the coat or wrap being
so out that the dresa yoke form a fin
ish. In cases like this a coat la mads
without any collar or with a flat on.
A Word About the Pllms of Tells.
Of course, where a woman must wear
a collar, one Of embroidered linen, turned
over and worn with a smartly tied bow
of Mack, la la the best taste. Such a
collar la illustrated in Fig. I.
Berthas and flchua of lace and other
bowllderlngly dainty, diaphanous mate
rials no longer float about the ahouldera
of th amartly gowned woman. Even
Jabots are relegated to the use of old
ladiea, and new fashlona In dress demand
new neckwear accompanlmenta.
Vella, too, have gone the way of other
airy nothings of the toilette. They have
literally bean don to death, so that It la
now bad style to wear on. We bore
with them aa they grew and grew until
they reached our feet, but whan thay
threatened to trail behind ua we rebelled
and caat them off.
A smart now collar that la being worn
over coata is so new in cut as to prof
something of a novelty in laoa It la
well illustrated In Fig. O, where Its pe
culiar out shows to advantage. It has a
deep curve in front, dlacloslng well th
neck finish of th gown over which It
I worn, and haa two points in th back,
joined together at the top; two deep,
square points over the elbowa, and vary
deep on in front, extending a foot or
more below th waist Una Thla collar
la mad of Valenciennes lace. In a larg
pattern of roses. Inset with larg medal
lions of Irish crochet lace. In a very open
design, and with a wlds. Irregular bor
der of the same lace. It la Just the aort
of accessory to give a vry smart ap
pearance to the garment over which it
may be worn.
Th most usual form of tucker is
hown in Fig. H. a aimpl little thing of
Valenciennes lac with a tiny frill on
th edge. Thla stjjle of tucker appears
slthsr round, squar or pointed, accord
ing to the cut of th bodice worn over It.
On may have these quaint little 1830
tuckers made of any smart kind of lace
or embroidery, or thay may be fashioned
of tucked chiffon or aome similar dlaph
anoua material.
JTrwest, Smartest Hot About Jewels.
Along with changea In neckwear we
have new fancies In belts and buckles.
The smart belt of today la a wide caln
turo of draped character or a wide belt
of leather, according to tha material of
the gown with which the belt 1 worrl.
Where buckles ara worn they ar very
large and quit aimpl In style In
height three and four lncbea represent
the correct sis of buckle, and In atyla
frames of Jewels or broad frames of
plain gold ar smartest. Indeed, for
plain belts the aimpl gold buckles ara
almost exclusively th kind In use.
Dog collar and chains have had their
day and ar seldom worn. They hav
given place to necklets and pendant a of
jewel artistically arranged, usually in
quite an elaborate design in front, and
held around the neck by a single row of
jewel or a slender chain of gold, allver
or platinum.
Fig. M. for Instance. Illustrate a
popular form of ncklt. It ts of green
jade, In a rich shade of streaked green.
In round and oval stones, connected by
slender chains of platinum Other jew
el ar arranged In th earn fashion,
and also In th style shown In Fig. I,,
a necklet of amethyst In several alses,
connected by slender platinum or sliver
cits Ins
In Fig. J I shown a smart buekl of
plain gold, and In Fig. K on otlrlllfant
with decoration formed of cluster of
the earn stones in th shape of rosea,
A Strlith Cap
of black lynx, with
large, shaped stole.
B Large stole in
tha newest, smart
est cut.
C retching
small, flat boa of er
mine tipped with
D Long stole of
sable, lined with Si
berian squirrel and
tipped with ermine.
E Round neck
piece of lynx with
bushy tail.
F Smart ontaide
yoke of two ma
terials, lace and em
broidery to be worn
over a bodice.
O Smartly
shaped collar of two
kinds of lace to be
worn over a coat,
H Fetching lit
tie 1830 tucker, used
in some form with
nearly every dress.
I Chic collar of
embroidered linen
with bow.
J Belt buckle of
plain gold.
K Elaborate
rhineatone buckle
for dree wear.
L Necklet of
M Small necklet
of green jade.
N Bowknot of
rhinastones or dia
monds with pearl
, Decorative ornaments Of Jewels tend
more to light and airy shapes In design
thsn to solid effects. In this respect a
good example la shown In Fig. N, a
dstnty bowknot and twist, done m allver
snd small brilliants, with a ball-shaped
pendant from which hanga a luatrous
pear-shaped pearl.
Such pattern as tha do not ncea-
aarllv. lay down a rule to fellow, but
they show that delicacy of outline and
h-Ha "J,.. "
the fun nf tn Mnson.
A very pronounced rogue .exists for
th wearing of bracelets. Indeed, it may
be said to bar reached th extent of a
"eras." Every on
not on or two. but lm.
nd .v ,J,, trmn fol
This bracelet crass wa. Introduced by
. . 7T ...
ort n.a thr-nuartcr sleeve
which seemed to suggest tha need of
soma sort of decoration for tha arm be
M, ltOt
Mixed furs the extreme new novelty of
the season. Immensely long and wide stoles
a fad in furs. Little flat stoles smart by
way of contrast. Long and snort fur capes
come into style again. Filmy lace scarfs
and tuckers for tke neck so very modish.
Imitation sealskin quite the newest
smart note in fur. .,.-,
t ween th termination of th alv and
th wrist
Bracelets do not take on the big, solid
forma that we remember In years paat.
They are moatly alender tine of jewel
linked together, and glitter in a vivid
maaa of partl-colored light from an un
obtrusive setting.
Together with bracelets, earrings have
come into style again, and, what la more,
th bigger th earring the smarter It la
Wa may com to a revival of th time
when earrings war so large and heavy
that thay almost pulled their way
through th lob of th ear, and. any
way, caused a disfiguring hole there.
Thla I distinctly a season of Jewel,
when a woman may, if ah chooses, wear
(By Winifred Black.)
(Copyrlgbt, 1904, by W. R. Hearst.)
ONRTANCY unshaken. Olrl
wtf searches city for hus
band who haa twice cruelly
deserted her Beautiful de
votion of young mother."
That's what th head line said.
I wonder If all thla sentimental sym
pathy for the woman who drags a sick
little baby from town to town looking
for a man whoa one aim la life la to
get rid of her Is a good thing
The books Of th charitable societies
are til 1ml with th names of woman who
ar wandarlng from otty to eity. sick,
heart-broken, hungry, trying to And
men who hav deserted them once snd
who will desert them again at th vary
first opportunity.
I once asked a Salvation Army
worker about a woman , In whose hard
case a friend of mine was Interested,
is her husband dead?" I asked.
"No." said th Salvation Army woman,
"he's intermittent."
And I learned that tha intermittent
husband Is a regular featur of life
among th unfortunate.
H usually belongs to some womsn
who go out scrubbing or wsshlng by
the day. He stays at homo as long aa
the wife ts able to work to support
him. The moment she shows signs of
Illness he disappears. When the baby
la old enough to be left with a neighbor
th Intermittent husband come home
I know a little stenographer who
loses position after position because her
drunken husband Instate oa oomtng to
sny office where ehe is employed and
making trouble.
He is a strong able-bodied man. bat
she supports him. I have heard her
friends speak of her "beautiful devo
tion," ' J.
I am juat hard hearted enough to
think that such devotion as that is any
thing but beautiful. It la hideous, un
natural and revolting to any sane,
healthy mind.
I once went to tell a woman that her
little daughter had been arrested-for
setting fire to houass "just for fun."
I had to run for my llf to get awsy
frorn an Iman man, who turned out to
be the woman's husband. Me had bees
all she possesses without creating any
specially unfavorable comment upon her
good taste. Jeweled ornaments for th
corsage, bracelets, elaborate nckleta and
earrings all land themselves to make a
woman In full dress look aa attractive
and brilliant as a Jeweler' window on a
gala day.
While Jewels ar also worn In th hair.
It Is smarter at present to wear flowara
as decorations for th coiffure. Flow
era are always a becoming form of hair
ornaments, both to old and young, and
they harmonise wall with tha flower
painted and flower-trimmed dresses of
the season.
crazy for year, and with 'beautiful de
votion" she was hiding him in th house
to keep him away from th authorities.
The girl who was sotting th fires
waa th fifth ohlld born to that woman
alnc her husband had been hopelessly
Insane. And then th authorities held
that little girl responsible for her par
ticular form of insanity.
I don't pity thst woman at all. She
sacrificed hr little helpless children to
a silly idea of "devotion" and had a
beautiful time being a "martyr," whil
her bablas were terrified and stunned
and given a heritage of horror.
Out upon such devotion. Th world
is full of it. and It is made up for the
most part of simple force of habit.
A weak-minded woman becomes hyp
notised by th suggestions of love when
she is young and Impressionable, and she
haan't sense enough to throw off the
spell, that'a all. She's walking in her
aieep all the time. I believe in waking
her up.
Th next time a woman comes to you
for help to trace down a runaway hus
band, try to show her that tha farther
h run th hotter off ah and her chil
dren will be. Talk her out of a certain
small-minded determination to "get
even" by making a man who la tired of
her take car of her. That la at the
bottom of many of theae cases of "de
votion." "I know ray husband wants to get rid
of me," said a woman to mo once. "I'll
fool htm. I'll stick to him till ha die."
She did, hounding him till he went out
Into th stable and killed himself. Than
she went Into mourning, and wore it
most becomingly for the rt of her
widowhood which didn't laat long.
Whenever I read about one of the
"devoted" women I burn to take her by
th ear, turn her face the other way and
wake her up to a brand new, clean, use
ful, self-respecting llf.
There's room enough and joy enough
and work enough in this world for every
honest woman In It.
Wake up from your hypnotic trance.
"devotd" woman.
Boxcar Bobby Mow long d' yr a'pos
it'a been since Dusty Dan took a bath?
Tlepaas Tim Well, he looks tar be
About 48 years eleV dsvsland Leader.