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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 7, 1904)
"THE, OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL". PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, -i AUGUST 7, 1804. 1ST Fine Lace and Emhroidered Pelerines, Deep Cape Collars and Dainty Fichus Are '.;v,i: portant iiupuruui x bdiutts ui summer vj owns. Tablecloth Pelerines and Centrepieces a Fad of the Economical Smart Girl Stiff Linen Turnover Collar' and Cuff Sets Threaten to B ring Into Vo gue'the Plain Linen Collar and Cuffs or a Decade Ago The New Battlemented Collar and ; Cuff Sets Like Those" Worn' in- the' Reign of Charles : I, the , Smartest Things Out MM .1UU4. 5 111 I . " . I M U . W - . . i :'.! . I I . Ql tlLipo3gr (JJDOKtf ha&WI 11 the lde Is further carried out tr adding , ball fringes to ths sleeve of th ooat ... J An Irish laoe collar Is, too, very smart looking upon a linen dress, to that the .;' " possession of one or mora auoh collar , ,'" la an addition to th wardrobe, for the EVEHY well-gowned woman know that one or the moet Important things about dreee la the care fill attention to detail the ' taste displayed In the selection of eol liars and cults. If these are worn, and ' the character of the pelerine and fldhua worn with oertain garments. It takes a woman of discernment to understand ' - that a large collar, or cape, which' would ' look well upon a dress of one kind j completely destroy the effect of a drees i1 of another sort, and that what adorns a coat Will not. necessarily, prove an ornament to a dress bodice. Even the simplest of frocks often ao quires eaohet and beauty by reason of the. elegance of the pelerine which droops over the bodice, and certainly a touch of smartness to given - walking and similar simple gowns by the chla new collar and cuff sets of linen which are among the newee things summer holds for as. Quite the smartest and most .novel of these sets eome In battlemented shapes, such as are shown In -figures H. I and J. and these are made with a snugly fitting stock and a flaring round piece below, finished with battlements, which sets perfectly over the neck. The fad la to make these of yellow, the tint used In our tropic uniforms, and to em broider them' with white In satin stitch, or a sort of ebaln-etltch. When made of white linen the embroidery la of yellow.- While the battlemented sets -are ' smartest. " others with, only a tab Iff ; front are also In vogue and are very effective. This style of collar cannot be called the moat comfortable in the . world, but It Is decidedly fetching and new and reminds -one of the eort worn ' by poor Charles L One naturally won-- -jders whether he wasn't almoat glad to 'part with his head In order to escape .wearing the stiff things Indefinitely.. fust Wis Is tawt Vow In Cuffs and . Of course the cuff match the eol 'lars. They are quite deep and turn up - and back . upon the sleeve, and when 'battlements are added to flare above , itfee edge they make quits a display upon , . a sleeve and give to It an air of dis tinction which makes one unconsciously look twice to" sea' Just wliat It T thaf Imakes that simple sleeve look - so smart. v .itlrJ til 4 ' hh4. .St 4 V collar adds all ' . the trimming needed about the shoulders and saves boITi time and money U the flnlahlng of the top of a coat or bodice. ' ,' Some of the oape-ltke collars, which we often call pelerines, . are fastened down to the back. This is sa Innovation of this seaaon, and so la the little bow .. of green silk ribbon which ties the neck of soma of them in front' , la figure A 1a shewn one of the thin ' and dainty sort of pelerines., This la In ; the mode of Louis XVI, and Is of dotted batiste with baskata of flowers look-l tng esthough designed by, Watteau I wrought In beautiful Irish': lace. The! delicate Jtranaparenry of the background brines Into hlgli relief, the beauty of the baakets of flowers. In front braid lace; dangles are added above long, wide ends ., of soft material trimmed at the bottom, and which may be looped, tied In a bow or allowed to hang loosely. . Dotted batiste Is one of the smsrt collar fabrics of this season, and the little collar shown In figure L Is made of , )t and. has an embroidered garland of small flowers set In the scalloped Border, to- which Is added a lace edge.- , Th Importance ' Mora ' aad Koro ofj . aflulaite Veedlework. , . ' Women with a teste for fine needle., tlemented edges, must be of khakt-coiored' ' smart heckwear might accomplish ai very effective collar, like the one' In' ' figure H. by adding a whit pique turn ' over to a white linen stock and working the turnover In flowers or flrures. In1 khakl-eolored embroidery cotton. The; shaped piece for the neck, with Its bat-' tlemened edges, must bevof khaki-colored linen worked In white outline embroidery . at itcn, with the nowers in solid embroid ery. Medallions are made upon the linen with embroidered dgea and centers and the rest of the spaoe filled In with plain stitches, as one would stitch th needl back and forth. In any direction, leaving a moderately large stitch each time, Thai .1 Round Dollars and cuffs are as popular as th other sort, 'If not quit so x- 82 0 '', '. : i 1 (D ft. ta1 trete la styla The euffsTiav squar or curved open sides, and are nearly ai- ways of a medium heavy but very One 'quality of linen, embroidered In a dell cate dealgn over the cuff and around the edges. Lac and embroidery frills are sometimes added. "With such cuffs the ' lnen stock Is covered to the lower edge with the turnover, which Is embroidered lover the surface and finished with small embroidered scallops. It opens only in 'the beck.' The other sort of collar worn' wlUi the new euffa Is the old-fashioned round collar, which Is so very smart and? so Infinitely becoming to a pretty throat. The woman with a ahort neck will find this revival of a quaint old style not only becoming but comfortable, while ;the woman with a long neck may or may not look like a Illy on a stem" In one. . It depend a good deal upon how one re gards the stem of a human lily. Too often it requires massage and cold cream to make It presentable at all. The little round collars are not only 1 made of embroidered ltnen of quite a tiff quality but also of line lace and , embroidery. One sees them In old pic tures, fastened In front with a round brooch. ' Many of these same collars 'which graced the neck of some beauty f th past oentury have "been Unfolded ; from sweet-scented envelopments and bleached to fit modern requirements and i other necks. Thess collars and ' cuffs, with th broad, soft leather belts are effective with sbnpl linen gowns. , AvUttl Modish Zesay oa Oread. y ' ' ' mamma's Velerlaes. Th same may be said of the beautl . fully emuroldered pelerines over which our grandmothsr worked with such Itatlent fingers, and which are as beau tiful today as when the needl was laid aside alter th white fhvwars, all In the ' xqulait beauty of fine needlework. rer completed. . r- i- - - Large collar and pelerines revived from a fashion of the past, are shown Ju figures 11- C. D and 3, which are made of laca or embroidery, and of tine and -delicate or heavy aad rich materials, ac cording t the sort of dress with which they win be worn. For rnatince, take a pelerine Of Irish laoe with baU fringe emd place ft over a pongee oot and wit tieee how Immediately the coat takes On sv modlslmnd, 'V'"!- snlil)y if. . '. . i- I 1 o : 'IrV mi mm m ,.r4 Mm C Pslerin to "roop well over th shoulder and rfn 8hap fr. Iso or . pmarutuerjre . . V e..-e , W A. 1 Pelerine with baaketa of flowers in frlah laoe n dotted batiste around. B. Lara cap oollar for coat or frock, -' ' . E. Pelerine mad of embroidered linen oenterpieoe. ; ( F, Squar collsr mad of hem stltohed and embroidered oenterpieoe. GL Detail of F. How to out out th center. Th lino in front show th opening, t be hemstitched, and th dotted lino th shoulder. . H. Bsttlemented linen oollar. .' I. Battlemented linen cuff. J. Collar without battlements. "K, Group of round and equar . Isr and euffa, In stiff or fino linen. L.v- Smart old-faehloned . round Col lar with euf f. - , ,4; mi 'V.W ,jpVDwprfgp olIrf4oc,dw effect I odd and quite pleasing as. welt -,' as being very new. - In. making . the plain . whit set ? ' drawn-work Is much used. The wbolaj - . turnover, which covers th stock, mayj , ' be of drawn-work, or It may be trimmed, and bordered with It. Sometimes drawn- work figures are finished on the turn-) ' over border with little embroidered scallops or a hemstitched hem, - A nbtlst Venlnlao Bmart Trick. Of course, these, pelerines, collars and euffa, when of hand-embroidery, are decidedly expensive, and It Is rather . amusing to see how som women over- ' . eome the. Item of expense In providing themeelves with smart neckwear or shoulderwear. These women will go t I a shop selling table linens snd aak for large centerpieces. '.They will awing the centerpieces over- theirs shoulders, and then sorew their heads around In an en- deavor to sea how-the mlddl of thelrj of a dmlng table. They will try on onoi tablecloth after another, both square ' 4 and round, trvina- to make the table- . cloths fit before they are purchased. - when on seems to fit and ns tns ears liked and th flower most in vogue, or " the sort of lac that will look beat upon a certain gown, th woman who ha gone through tho entire collection of table , centerpieces buys It and adds It to herj . vnlliiotlnfi nt nelarlnea ' ' . ' - ' When women firet' took to ' table eenterDleoes ss shoulder adornment the . i..v. m,miiiu1 mm th.v thnuahtl their, fair cuatomers were , suffering) from mental aberatlon. ; Now thejr merely try not to smile. . Women are wise In their generation, and there la method in thi apparent madness. Table centerpieces whoae flowers and patterns are not the latest! . in Uble styles are Just In th mode for pelerines, and, having lost value In their - own line, they come cheap as decoration Xor gowna. A woman may, therefore get a collection of lace and embroidery pelerines and collars that would com very high If purchased ready made for, feminine wear. Round dollies., too, mak , smart round collars, and square one . ar readily adapted to tha uses of a' turnover stock, .while cuffs, too, ar evolved from the same materials, Women who haunt the linen counters wher table embroideries ar sold sa that not only do they get their materials mors cheaply, but that linen for table use 1 very fine in quality. Intended ta launder well, and th embroidery and drawnwork upon it ar of th most ex-i qulsito snd durable sort. These are all good reasons for going to soma trouble In the matter of smart neckwear, wher economy must be considered- k I have been ashed . whether I think plain, stiff linen collars and cuffs will corns back Into vogue as a consequence of wesrlng the sort Illustrated on this rage. I can only answer "Qufen saber' . it would seem- a natural evolution Of the fad for stiff linen collar-and-cuff sets; with certain kinds of gowns, and the re turn of the old vogue would aot be sur ; prising. At the snme time It would not be any more surprising to ee the stlffl sets dropped altogether. Who can fore tell what Dame Fashion' will do between now and wlnterT In any caae. it must bei ' remembered that for general uses, where the high oollar Is not really needed the fashion of th day Is not to wear any collar at all, or to wear on of the pretty little low, turned-down affairs that encircle th neck and leave the throat quite bare. . Ths pelerines and fichus, too, ar re vivals of quaint old styles that give a s graceful droop to modern shoulders, ' otherwise Inclined to tilt squarely at the world, and wbleh harmonise charmingly with the picturesque style - of th town Which are smart today. jTOSIKJ! WiWON I V