THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL', PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, MAY 1, .1004.
'A.:,..;
Lady Goes ! a-Shijpii. to '.Buy
-ViL:;:T".V'-;.:--.-'-."-;--Jr;'-i..
30
-..,-0
i,t-i. y.k v
Smart Spring Costumes
Woman's Ignorance
1 :Vi
My
- .--lir,:' I T ' fl s3 h iNV 111? VI -l I i
. iffiS'' HV;il?iV:;; OTliiMlI''
" J-p3:,: - V ';'f .,. W?H' '
Now that skirts are worn full
wide the petticoat haa become a matter
of serious consideration. . There, are
fewer drop skirt worn with gowns, but
.more elaborate petticoats. These are
made ' of almost any kind of silk be
. ruffled and berufded with jrarda of laoe
or chiffon. ' ; - ' '
. - For wearing under summer gowns It
la a pretty -Idea, to have an underWaist
to match. One 1 particular pretty set
: is made ef a striped brocade silk. t. The
, rufles are of muil)n, with', tucked me
dallions, and the scalloped edges are
' trimmed with lace.""' '!
' The princess i gown must tit so per
fectly that it 4s necessary to have the
underskirt made on the same lines and
Iko to flt without a wrinkle. A very
lhandsotne skirt is made of pale pink
, satin, trimmed with ruffles of lace and
dows of ribbon.
A New Fancy Dress Ball. '
" , A very original dance with fancy
dresses was recently given by a lady In
Paris. The whole evening was passed
j la performing national dances In th cos
. tume of the country- Thus Poland was
, represented by the maxurka. danced In
'couples; Spain ' produced a fandango,
vith gay castaneta. waving fans and
mantillas; Italy was the author of a
r tarantella, a very difficult and exciting
. ....dance, JBecessltatJng the, picturesque
Italian peaaanr coatume. The SwedUh
dance was especially pretty, and the per
formers were attired in short red petti
,r coats, green aprons, embroidered chem
' tfiettes, boleros of black velvet and round
red hats garnished With lOng streamers
f red and white ribbon. The Rou
' manlana sprang about lightly In their
, rational "Kuskala." Alsatian valses
,Vame,next, and the Danish dancers not
nnlv narfnrmAil ftff-iira. hut nlnn nr.
compartied themselves with national
songs. Altogether the features of this
w entertainment were not Ohly novel, but i
graceful and Interesting, and the "cake-I
walk" was remarkable by Its absence.
" Jit last good taste had prevailed, and
this uly, arwtosne comic business, not
was omitted. i f
Becoming- and New Rlncs.
Rings and their suitability1 to the
' hands that, wear them is Just now the
( subject of serious preoccupation in Paris
artistic circles, for fashion has sent
-i. avi v 1 1 v- v.niv . iiini iiitj uiuoi an a va
ture be adapted to the wearer's special
snaoe and color of hand, and no lons-er
' be worn merely because they are beautl-
' rul and costly articles of luxury.
It Is a fact remarked very frequently
. that some very pretty rlriars appear
strangely out of place on some hands,
' and that the colors of the various gems
do not always appear to adapt them
' I selves to the shape and coloring of the
person they adorn. In conseuuence of
i this edict French artists und designers
" are very busy preparing some lovely
creations of graduated rings which will
' be specially adapted to te Angers of tha
i hand, and some startllnc deuarture in
this , direction will. It is said, -very
shortly te seen on the slender fingers
. of fashionable women.
-.i.'BIue Straw Turban.
" ' 'A pretty combination on an imported
spring hat Is that of pink and white
, clover -blossoms on a navy blue straw.
The hat is a very smart turban shape
' and dents in sharply at the side, where
t 4hA invA, hlnurtml inruu, . Rnun th.
over-green silk. .The "bird cage" veil
Idea Is vory popular and It Is a becom
ing 'KtjrWi to most womeiii . A veil of
' irrnt iw -ttui ii una tKBinvn - uh
a hat of white Neapolitan, straw. . The
and
A DINNER GOWN OF
A New Field
The army of business and professional
women rapidly recruiting from all walks
and stations of life is adding variety
of occupations as well as numbers to its
ranks.
There is. for example, the hotel busi
ness, a new and strictly feminine insti
tution, i
The hotel hostess is, and must be. a
woman of fine presence and exquisite
tact. She must, in short, deserve that
almost obsolete title. 'lady." Mrs. MIru
Beals, for Instance, who is one of the
pioneers in this newest vocation for
women, and who Is pleasantly re mem.
bered by guests at summer hotels In the
Thousand Islands and In the winter ho
tels of Florida, as well as at other
places and seasons between, explains
now sne Happened to adopt a new voca
tion. "I found myself after the great freeze
In Florida in 1883, when a 40-acra or
aniire grove that I owned was de.
stroyed, compelled to look about to see
what I could do to earn a living, and,
hat is trimmed with white lilacs and
green velvet. The sailor hat Is, of
courrfe, not as popular as of yore, but it
is too convenient and smart a style to
ever go out completely. With a shirt
waist nothing looks more suitable than
the sailor. The style worn this season
Is rather broad and has a medium
crown. A pretty wrap that Is almost
a dolman is worn with light summer
frocks. It la so comfortable to have a
little gar-bient half coat, -half cape to
fling over one's shoulders-in the evening,
or driving. One of moss green satin
cloth - is v shaped at the neck and
trimmed with bands of Perslun em
broidery. From the loose sleeves hang
run rumen or yellow lace. It fastens
In front with two gilt buckles and has
long fringed tassels.
Russian Brides.
One of the most Interesting sights in
Russia Is tho exhibition of would-be
brides, which takes place annually at
Klul, near Moscow, and which was held
this year with usual success.. On the
festival of the Epiphany (Russian style)
all the young women, who wish to get
married in the course - of the year are
mustered In a long row In the principal
street In orden to make themselves
attractive to the young men who come
to see and admire them, they don tiearlv
everything' in Jnel poBsession, jyot only
i i y j i a I - i
v ., at m m . . . . . vi .... ii
SOFT GREEN SILK.
for Women
as I had for many years been a guest
,at many of the summer resorts and had
there observed that there was a lack of
sociability, and that guests sat apart
from each other or gathered in little
groups and that there Was no general
mingling. It occurred to me that I might
in some way be useful to a hotel in
some such capacity as chaperon.
"I wrote a hotel man whom I knew
and asked him what he thought of the
plan. He forthwith engaged-me tochap-
eron iiih oaugnter ror the summer, as
both himself and wife took active part
in the management or the hotel.
"That summer marked my entrance
into a new field of activity, and I am
glad to say that It was far from a fail
ure.
"I never had any difficulty In getting
a position in a good hotel. My position
Is to all outward appearances that of a
guest of the hotel. Very few of the
guests ever know that my name Is on
the payroll of the hotel. That would
inieriere in a great measure witn my
usefulness, for women, you know, are
natural snobs." MIRA BEALS.
do they put on their best clothes, but
also a lot of curious old family
trinkets, Including sometimes valuable
scarrs, cloaks and furs, and they even
bring with them their bed linen and
other articles of their wardrobe. A pro
cession Is formed, and, on the way to
the church, the young men approach
the would-be brides, engage them in
conversation, and. If the young people
think they suit one another, a. formal
visit Is paid to the parents.
For the Spring Cleaning.
. To clean a carpet without removing
it from the floor sprinkle -it generously
with slightly dampened clean sawdust
After it haa lain on the'floorfor a few
minutes go over the carpet with a stiff
broom moistened with hot water Tind
kept clean toy being frequently rinsed
with hot water as the sweeping pro
gresses. After the sawdust has been
removed, sweep the carpet with a softer
broom. To 'go over it a third time with
a broom bound with a soft cloth damp
ened with ammonia water (one table-
spoonful ammonia to one quart of water)
Drigntens the colors and removes tha
last particle of dust The cloth must
be kept Clean by constant rinsing-, and
the .ammonia water must be kept clean
Dy rinsing tha cloth In a separate
oucitet. ' ,
A useful gown for evening wear In
summer ta of a soft green silk,- the skirt
very full and long In the . style our
grandmothers wore a good many , years
ago. The waist and sleeves are full
nnd have no trimming but a ruffle of
lace at the neok and at the elbow.
There la a riew style of hair dressing :
which combines both the high and the
low. arrangement of the hair. This Is
very suitable raunion to- wear for
evening. The ribbon ' is twisted )n and .
out and carried from one knot of hair
to the other. Two loops hang at one
aide of the neck and perky little enda
stand tip In front
In Paris the fashion of dressing the
hair low In the neck Is a thing of the
past But with oollarless gowns for
summer wear there Is no prettier way, ,
so we will be safe to adopt that style
till fall at least i
The Difference.
When Mary and John were engaged
(The same town did not hold them
both!)
This John would have been sore en
raged, -
Unspeakably disturbed and wroth,
Had not from Mary come each day
A bulky letter color blue, -
And perfume violet! to say;
I. love you. John, and only you.
There Isn't much to tell .
Except that Mr. Mink, the man -Tou
didn't like. Is courting Belle.'
But I think she'll have him. Nan
Has left for Vassar. Curious, too.
Can't see how any , woman can
For learning wedded life eschew.
Of course, she wanted you, my John,
As ev'ry on at home here knewl
Tou dear, I'm rather glad she's gone.
I love you, John, and only you!"
Some twenty years or so the twain
Have now been married, but by stress
Of business must John remain'
Away from home for months, no less.
Each week he haa a note from her
On any kind of paper writ
But hardly would he miss one,- wore
The mails not to deliver it
They're all alike and run Ilka this:
"Dear John, I wish you'd pay these
.'bins ... - l.
One: dress for Moll by 'Bloom and
BllSS; -..t-L v.: ;:'! i ,,
Two: medicine for Johnnie's Ills;
Three: hat I nad to have It dear!
Four: meat and fish from Kill and
Kills;.,.'.. v. s:v
Five: gas account-r-lfs fearful here!
I'd have you notice that no frills -
Or f oldrums on the list appear,
Bo, John, I wish you'd pay these bills!"
H. R. R. HERTZBERQ.
A Curious Bed Quilt' ,
After 10 years' Incessant labor a New
Jersey - woman has -..finished .what Is
probably the oddest bed quilt In the
country. It Is a path quilt made of 14,
000 pieces of silk of all kinds and colors.
and every piece of ; silk came from a
different bride's hat - ' -
Durlna 10 years she has been collect-
mi these pieces of gilk by sending to
various parts of the country for them,
and now has her quilt all completed.
It Is a beautiful piece' of. work and the
varlgated colors produce a ' kaleiao-
scoplo effeot quite unusual In quilts.
i Never Argue. 4 ;
People .wast a tremendous amount of
time and energy in trying to agree with
ona another. They waste a good deal
more In trying to make other ' people
agree with them. But to learn how to
disagree gracefully does not seem often
thought of.- - Truly, a matter of regret,
because If we all learned this . lesson
the world would be a much pleasanter
f place to Uva in,- . - - . " '
'v Thra la on onalitr boy all
Thara on on!i hoy all
hava ait idea that they
a tolerant,, lodulgent way and looking- amused when ;ahe yenturea to diecuea
drea.s' -..!"'-; -.M . "
If aha tiuta forth a timid lltUe.idea on politic, the war. or anyital
other in'ah iriuaed, ' lordly, superior
inen, wltn unDroua; ' conoesoenswn,
' HOW la she evaj" going to vnotritina xninga ii nry wun i uu ina iruuoia to explain 10 fieri , , - : ' v.
Her : ionrlnnto b on these matters does not mean that she Is trying to b strong minded' ant 1nin
womanly charm, H simiily means
air '4lscuM4Uh; l-i - j.
,' it la n hina nut Af tan
llaugh, and there Is an end-to the,lr knowledge in that quarter.' , -, ,4 . . ,
Perhaps men think It cunning and feminine that women should be Ignorant On those subjects, but'" women
don't feel that wayabottt It themselves. There are lots of ways-ot being feminine without being ignorant.
h; Every girl should be educated 0 UndereUnd the laws of her country, the banking system and the meaning of
tha political factions. V" , - " ' ' ' ''
,,. As long as mta treat women like dolls, women will continue to make ludlorous -mistakes. :,v ." - ;A '''.w..::--
' The hard part of It is that q one Is more impatient with a 'Wife who gets eonfuaed over her check-book
than the husband who, before marriage, thought his sweetheart so .cunning because she didn't know an Invoice from
a certified check. -.-- . .:''."', . . i - . v . . ' - -
All the readiaa) in fhe world will not explain these mattera to a woman as clearly as one simple, Intelligent e.
A
;, . .. .. .. .Wtm
. f "''-y ' X
v.;1,.,,.,-,:,,, . , Q?isw "
k !? 0 j M 11 v.
. - 1 - 4 , 1 ' HOTAL BHJ TABKTA' GOWN. ' : "M ' . ' ' v-'V
lm i in ii niim.nnimiMitaiu 11 1 1 , , , , , , j
t -4-:3---': mf ''' --
'Kmbroiderv is one of the most eftei-
tlve trimmings ' seen1 on tha season's
gowns. 'This frock Is of a royal blue
taffeta, the full skirt having two ruf
fles scalloped, and embroidered Itr black
silk. The work. Is very . simple, Just
the old-fashioned punched holes done
- Chicken and Nut Salad. ; 1
Cut the white meat of a chicken into
small pieces and add to it a half cupful
of English walnut meat, chopped rather
coarsely, and a cup of finely cut celery
or four or Ave lettuce leaves torn In
BY BEATRICE' FAIRFAX.;
othi
othr that woman love, and that I
must talk to a weman In a llaht strain,
way, tellin harnot to bother her head
, iney onni mi mm oown i nor niuu r. - . v ' o - .
that she want to be able to listen intelligently when she hears the topics of the
' : ' t' , . 1 i r ' ' , ,, -
"whan thev exoreas their oolniona and make some . ridlmilmia miaair
Stiinriirig OsboniG6wh
around with buttonhole stitch. Tha short
Jacket has a narrow ruffle attached at
the bottom, and a deep shaped piece
falling .over the lace Underaleeves.
- It makea the gown especially - strik
ing if the lace Is almost yellow.' Bright
shreds. ; If the lattersprinkle wth cel
ery," salt, dust lightly- with pepper,
marinate with Just a, little vinegar or
lemon ; Juice,, and . add half a cupfiH of
thicken MocKjor gravy and the same
amount of mayonnaise. .. - -Toss lightly
aaniMtnesi. . " ; ' ' ?
treating' their oolntona mi rnnm mir in
any topic deeper than btibiee, errente and
' , v . , . - , -
question of the day. thev look at nr.
about things ahe doea not understand, and
and Btrlking color contrasts are very '
mucn worn again. - tm at la of blue-
horsehair straw, with a crown and veil
of the same colored lace. A deep yel- v
low .rose Just under the brim adds a '
pretty touch of color next the hair. .
"r "JOSEFA QSBORN.
with a fork. .Line a salad bowl or the -little
Individual paper cases with the ,
white leaves of lettuce, curling each one '
to form a cup or nest. Fill these with
the as lad mixture and crown each with a s
teaspoonful ot mayonnaise - ; 1 f
X