: V. WHEN
DULL
CARE IS FORGOTTEN
: . RIBBON MAID. THE EMPIRE.. GAY SPANISH GIRL.
THE VIVANDIERE.
FROM BRITTANY,
SPANISH GIRL.
UNDER THE DIRECTOIRE.
BLACK
The loveliest kind of a party, and one
where great fun may be had, la always
and ever a, fancy dress ball. Do you
know- why? Because One and all of us'
are born with an innate desire to act or
play a part that Is not of that of an ordi
nary everyday existence. . . . , ,
When we cannot satisfy that longing,
by actually going on the stage the best
thing is to dress up, and, for one even- 1
lng at least;, pretend we are our favorite
personage In history. We can be for a,
few brief hours a queen, with a whole
kingdom kneeling at our feet; a fair
Juliet, with an adoring Romeo at our
side, or a Joan of Arc, suffering and
dying for our country. In fact, there
1s no end to the .flight our fancy may
. take. : ' '
For the pretty maid who wishes to play
a part at a fancy dance the enplre gown,'
with its most becoming poke bonnet, is
a costume that can be easily arranged.
Flowered muslin, or soft, clinging silk
should be used for the long-skirted frock,
with its short waist. The bonnet should
be made of soft greens and yellows, or
delicate pinks and blues, with a nodding
nosegay , stuck perkily up In front, lit
tle high-heeled, gilt slipers, with the
heels covered with bright red leather,
gives the finishing touch to 'this cos
tume. Dashing. Indeed, - will be the dark-eyed,
black-haired lass who, . with ribbon-
trimmed, jingling tambourine in hand,
wears a Spanish costume. : ' The dress
should be of red or yeHow Bilk, and
trimmed with black lace. A black vel
vet bolero, from which, white lace peeps
out In front adds to the charm of the
dress. I and ' upon the " head should be
draped black lace as a mantilla. Of
course, a red rose, coquettlshly stuck in
the hair, is necessary to make this cos
tume affective. -The
girl who wishes to go 'to a fancy
dress party and yet ' does not wish to
have an expensive costume is wise to
play she Is a peasant The dress of the
Swiss or Brittany maid can easily be
made up In the cheapest of materials,
and yet be charming and becoming. The
long apron always gives a demure touch
to the frock, and the characteris'tia
' headdress Is ever quaint and picturesque.
The black bat of night is as striking
as It is unique.. Full and fluffy must be
the material used, and the big, full
THE SWISS PEASANT,
cape fastened, at wrist gives the winged .
appearance. .
Little Miss Ribbons Is all m flutter
with her many flying ends. Any clever-'
fingered girl can' easily convert an old
ball frock into a new,, fresh one with
gay colored ribbons all a-flying.
The "Dlrectoire" and the "Vlvandlere"
takes us back again to the age of war
and romance and give food for the mind
as well as the eye.
GRACE GOLDEN.
& A Visit to Carpineto, Where the Late Pope Leo Was Born &
, ; ' : ' - f
William E. Curtis' Rome Letter In the
Chicago Record-Herald.
With Salvatore Cortesl, the king of
Italian newspaper correspondents, who
knows everything, I made a Journey the
other day to Carpineto, the ancestral
home of the late Leo XIII. one of the
most picturesque and romantic places
you can Imagine. Cortesl, Is the man
who reported the death of Leo XIII and
the election of Pius X for the Associated
Press, and from every point of view his
dispatches stand unsurpassed. It was
one of the greatest reportorlal feats on
record. Taking the Naples train at
Rome, we paused southward across the
Campagna, - through the estates i of
Prince Colonna, to the little- town of
Segnl, where there Is a large sugar
mill run by electricity, a new Industry
Introduced Into Italy since the Cuban
revolution of 1898. Here also are enor
mous quarries of tufa, the building ma
terial of Rome, and hundreds of men
are working them to supply the de
mands from that growing city. a. nno
toad, centuries old, and built . to last
forever, leads us upward toward the
Volscian or Laplnl mountains, as they
are sometimes called, through vine
yards, fields of sugar beets, - chestnut
groves and vast stretches of yellow
stubble, from which the wheat and oats
bad been cut. All this land, for miles
and miles, an empire In area, belongs to
the Dorla family, one of the oldest and
most Important in Italy formerly from
Genoa, where they have large estates
also and whose palace and art gallery
upon the Corso are visited by every
tourist. The Worla palace is the largest
in Rome, being almost two-thirds the
nice of St. Peter's cathedral. Marion
Crawford, in one of his books on Rome,
tells us that " a thousand persons once
lived under the roof outside of the gal
lery and the private apartments, which
alone surpass in extent the majority of
royal residences." The picture gallery
contains a fine collection of family por
traits beginning with the famous An?
drea Dorla, the great statesman of Ge
noa, the founder of the family, and a
large number of old masters collected
by him and his successors.
The present Prince of Dorla is one
of the wealthiest men in Italy. It is a
question whether any Italian has more
money than he, which is an unusual
thing to say of a Roman prince, but
during the epidemic of speculation he
kept his head and increased instead of
diminished his fortunes, and the family
has had few black shee:. The present
princess is a daughter of the English
Duke of Newcastle. They belong to the
"White" society in Rome and are con
sidered the leaders of the English col
ony. They cultivate Americans In a
friendly way and are always expected
to entertain- distinguished strangers.
When the German emperor was here two
years ago Prince Dorla gave a ball in
his honor, which caused considerable
comment, because It surpassed in splen
dor that given at the royal palace, hence
When King Edward came last spring
the king would, not permit the mistake
to be repeated.
L-ouni jjuaovico rocci, uii nepnew oi
the late pope and the present head of
the family, -was kind enough to send
his 'carriage down to meet us, for his
castle is 12 miles from the railway and
a three-hours' uphill drive. But It is a
most Interesting Journey through . the
mountain . passes, with frequent villas
half-hidden by high stone walls, and
small towns with narrow streets and
tall houses, very unlike the rural set
tlements of eur own country. There, is
no wood for building material, hence It
is necessary to use atone or brick, and
until a few years ago the bandits, high-
SHADOW PICTURE:
ru w
"Coming ovanta ca theirahadowi
before," ' .
way men and other outlaws were so
numerous and fierce that it was neces
sary for the farming population to herd
together for mutual protection. For
that reason most of the villages in Italy
are situated on the summits of rocky
hills that seem almost inaccessible, and
their houses are several stories high,
because room is scarce upon the rocks.
Few farrhers live upon their land, al
though it is perfectly safe for them to
do so nowadays. In every village there
Is a big church, a fountain where the
women and girls come to get water and
carry It home in big Jars on their heads,
and where the ' animals may drink, a
few-little shops, a postofflce, a police
station and the' headquarters occupied
by the administrator of the estate.
Every village through which we passed
belongs to Prince Dorla, and almost the
entire population Is dependent on him
directly or indirectly for support He
employs about 8,000 men upon his farms,
but a large portion of his lands are
leased on shares to tenants.
Farming life In Italy is very differ
ent from that in the United States. The
home of the Italian peasant is more like
the tenement houses , that the members
of his 'race occupy in the slums of New
York, Chicago and other ' cities. Most
of the houses have dirt floors and the
walls are unplastered. They are almost
entirely without furniture, except a table
and a chair or two. There are no com
forts, no ornaments, no books, no news
papers and nothing that an American
farmer would consider necessary in his
home; but their condition corresponds
to their Incomes, for an entire family is
expected to live upon a few cents a day,
which explains the enormous emigration
to the United States, the Argentine Re
public and other countries, wnere people
can live decently and buy land and have
homes of their own. ,
As we approached: the Carpineto there
rose before us, clad In a brilliant robe of
autumn foliage, Mount Capreo? a rocky
peak, which rises 4,000' feet and can be
seen from all over the country. The
crest of the rocks is crowned by a mass
ive cross 90 feet high, which was erected
by subscription a few years ago to cele
brate the Jubilee of Leo XIII, a monu
ment to the Redeemer.
On the opposite side of the valley, upon
the summit of a lower hill, is the village
of Carpineto, from the center of which
arises an ancient castle, a relic of feudal
times. It is one of the most picturesque
in Italy, and Is centuries old. Evidences
of the generosity of the late pope and his
affection for his native place are found
on every hand. He built the people a
new. church; he paved the streets; he
brought water through pipes across the
mountains a long distance to save the
peasants the labor of bearing it up the
hill on their heads. He built a hospital
and a scboolhouse, drinking troughs for
horses and cattle, a public laundry, and
everything that is modern about the
place seems to have been contributed by
him. Near "by he built a monastery as
a retreat for aged and infirm Franciscan
monks, so that they might close the la
bors of their lives In the midst of beau
tiful and peaceful surroundings.
The rock upon which Carpineto stands
is long and narrow. At one end of it
are the ruins of an old fortress, which
commanded the entire valley in ancient
days and was the center of many stormy
scenes. In the center, rising from a mass
of houses, five, six and seven stories
high, that cling to the edge of the rock
appears the square roof of the Peccl
castle, in which the family of Leo XIII
have lived since 1456, when 'they came
here from Sienna. Hanging upon its
walls are portraits of ancestors running
back for several centuries, and in the
library is a family tree sketched by the
hand of the late pope, which traces his
genealogy back to the year 1288.
For 460 years they have occupied this
castle, have owned the land for many
miles around, and have been lords over
Ave ' or six thousand people, most of
whom have been employed upon their
farms. Although the feudal relations
that once existed between the land own
ers and the peasants of Italy were dis
solved long ago, and the humblest la
borer now haa. theoretically as much
to say concerning the government as
Prince Doria- with his vast estates, they
still retain a feeling of dependence
Which has been inherited from their
ancestors, and Count Pecci, like many
other Italian landlords, occupies a pa
triarchal responsibility. ' The people
come to him as their forefathers came
to his ancestors. In their sorrows and
their Joys. He is their banker, their
advisor in all matters and their friend.
This Is perfectly natural because the
men - who work his lands today can
trace their lineage baek as far as he,
and their ancestors served his ancestors
in the same way that they serve him.
Count Pecci tells me that more than a
thousand of hia neighbors and tenants
have gone to the United States during
the last two years, and the most of
them are working as laborers on the
Pennsylvania railroad for wages of a
dollar and a half a day, while at home
they could never earn more than SO
cents, and the most of them less than
20. Few took their families to America;
several have sent for their families
since they left; some have come back
after them; others send their savings
to Count Peccl to keep for them and
expect to return to their homes in a
few years.
The streets of Carpineto are so nar
row that we had to leave the carriage
at the edge of the town, and they are
so crooked as to suggest that the houses
must have originally been built on
either side of a goat trail. Before
reaching the castle we passed under an
arch of stone, upon which several cen
turies ago some misanthrope inscribed
this cynical sentiment:
For the good I do I am
Disliked. He who does good to
Stranger loses his time;
No matter how little it is.
Count Peccl and the countess are most
hospitable and agreeable hosts, and they
entertained us in a charming manner.
The castle is a vast building, with enor
mous rooms, decorated and furnished In
the style of a century ago, with fine old
carved oak and gilding that will never
lose its luster. The reception room,
the drawing room, the library and other
apartments are all large enough to en
tertain a regiment and everything about
the place la of princely proportions. The
chapel in which Leo XIII was baptised,
and where he often celebrated mass, la
kept Just as It was in his childhood,
and here, as in other homes of the
ancient Italian aristocracy, there has
been little change for centuries, and few
modern ideas have been Introduced.
Upon the walls are many valuable
pictures by artists of three and four
centuries ago, in addition to tne col
lection of ancestral portraits to which
I have already alluded. As Leo XIII
is the most distinguished member of
the family, it Is natural that his like
ness should appear frequently, and therj
are portraits of him painted when he
was a young man, when he was a
bishop, a cardinal and several while he
was pope. Among other modern pictures
is one that haa been made familiar to
the world by frequent reproductions in
books, newspapers, photographs and en
gravings. It represent Leo XIII being
borne upon the pontifical chair at the
head of an Easter procession in St
Peter's, one of those pageants he loved
so well.
The bedroom that he occupied during
his frequent visits to his home before
his elevation to the papal throne Is
beautifully furnished with a suite of
ebony furniture inlaid with mother-of-pearl;
but more precious and more in
teresting than anything else it contains
Is a little sheet of note paper, framed
and hung upon the wall, bearing these
lines:
From the Vatican, Feb: 28, 1878. My
Very Dear Brothers I hive to Inform
you that in the ballot this morning the
sacred college elevated my humble self
to the chair of St Peter. This is my
first letter written since my election as
pope, which I address to. my family,
upon whom I implore all happiness and
send with affection the apostollo bene
diction. Pray God much for me.
LEO. P. P., xin.
In a series of large rooms on the upper
floor of the castle Is a curious museum
made up of presents which the late pope
received from various parts of the world
during his long reign. Many of them
were birthday gifts, others came upon
the anniversaries of the church, and the
greater number upon the occasion of hlsi
Jubilee. They are an amusing illustra
tion of the queer ideas some people have
of what would be acceptable on such oc
casions to men of his station. There
are almost innumerable souvenirs re
ceived by him from time to time of
banquets, festivals, bazaar and other
functions, when some devoted church
man or enthusiastic admirer suggested
that a - memento be sent to the pope.
There is also a multitude of gifts of
every conceivable kind sent to him by
YOU SEE, IT WAS LIKE THIS:
IMfMMMMtt M M M f y
If i l L a , I S ! mil : I
To Mr, 8llk.tooklnB. To Mr. Van Aatef That It waa a blow Butthe rank and I the file ,
Who bet on 8sth Low, Re.ultt plainly augured To tho Standard Oil Co. Woro all overjoyed,
The result waa most shocking. Impending disaster. You cannot but know. You can ten by their amlta. (
u : ' . . . . r1-.. . ... ' : - 3
HtMMttMMMHtHHHIHMMHHMIMItHtlMit)MMHtMtUtHt M M M M H M M t ttv Ht t H t t H ri
EXERCISE AS A BEAUTIFIER
; By Beatrice Fairfax.
Girls, how many of you take a cer
tain amount of healthy exercise every
day? How many of you fill your lungs
with pure, 'fresh air, taking deep
breaths so that the air can go right
down into your lungs T
Supposing : you do work nearly all
day; that is no reason why you should
not have fresh air, and. exercise,
Start a few minutes . earlier in the
morning and walk five or six blocks be
fore you take the car; hold your head up
and your shoulders back and walk brlBk
ly; don"t loiter you will derive no bene
fit from your walk If you dawdle along.
Air your room thoroughly before you
go to bed, and have the window a few
Inches open, no matter how cold it is,
so that you will , breathe fresh air
all through thtr'nlght; k
Dress yourself , warmly but lightly,
and above all wear sensible boots not
thln-soled, high-heeled absurdities. -
Do not eat a lot .of trash; eat plain,
wholesome food; drink lots of water or
milk. ' . , " '
If you da all this you will find, that
your complexion will grow radiant and
lovely, your figure graceful cmd eUfing,
and your spirits will soar skyward with
amasing rapidity.
If you have a chance to Join a gym
nasium, do not neglect it; it will be
money well spent.
Nothing is more delightful than a
brisk walk during the keen fall weather.
Put on a sweater, wear io tight belts or
bands, and try it; see if you don't come
home with a great appetite and cheerful
sensations.
A SinrSAT-SOHOOX. BOO.
From the Chicago Tribune.
Teas, a Scotch collie, yesterday morn
lng taught the Sunday-school classes in
St-James' Methodist church. - Ellis ave
nue and Forty-sixth street
The dog told the number of David's
sons and of her Babylonian kings, and
always was rady to bark out a prompt
response to any question relating to
the scriptures. Then Tess gave an ex
hibition of mind reading. ' With George
B. Clason, the -owner, the collie left the
room.- The superintendent of the Sunday-school
wrote the figure "7" on the
blackboard and erased it. Tens re
turned and, gaslng at the superintend
ent barked seven timet. : . v
Tbli tartl4 ao Pi Jhe ' gefeojar
and, one youngster, eager to sound the
depths of Tess' knowledge, demanded
that the dog Immediately name the apos
tles. - It was the only question to which
Tess failed to respond,.
The exhibition caused the regular les
sons to be overlooked.
HE HAD CONFIDENCE.
t '
' "Are you aura the boat le safer
"Oh, yet; tho man I hired. It af
(tidal tttn Aikfeni dJBdilU3
NOVELTIES IN STATIONERY
While the conservative woman rarely
changes the form or fashion of the
paper and envelopes upon which she In
dites her notes and letters, still there
are those who like such fancies as the
stationers put 'temptingly forth. '
' Many maids and matrons select a cer
tain style of paper and then, year after
year cling persistently to It. With these
the choice Is more often than not Irish
linen, on account of Us simplicity. This
they have monogramed If the taste runs
that way; but the really good thing upon
one's stationery is the house address.
Recently the busy society woman haa
realised that it saves time and energy
and often temper, too to have (he
number of her telephone follow directly
under that of her house. .
For those fair young , girls who are
Constantly seeking novelties the fashion
able stationers this season have Intro
duced several. Ragged-edged envelopes,
looking as If they had just been roughly
torn, are among these, while dotted
Swiss paper is another new production.
The surface of this resembles chiffon
and is sprinkled - with large or small
dots according to the feminine fancy.
While white paper is always in the
best fit tasto still colored alatJoucr
Is being used. The newest color upon
which short notes of acceptance and re
grets are being penned is that of topas
hue. Parchment paper, with a mottled
surface, in blue-gray is a novelty, while
French grays and paper of greenish tint
are made up into writing materials.
"Sunday rolls."
From Youth's Companion. '
When Dr. John Cairns went from
Scotland to Ireland for rest and travel
in 1864, he was at once delighted by
discovering from the guides who ahowed
him "about that most of the landed
gentry were "Sunday folks."
'That's a fine castle." he would aay,
point hi g to a big house set like a crown
on some rocky hill.
Tls, sorr." said his guide. ""Tls Sir
John O'Connor's," "Tis Sir - Rory o'
Moore's." i He always added; "He's a
Sundah mon." , '
At last Dr. Cairns grew curious.
"What is a Sunday ma&r he asked.
Well, sorr, it do be a mon who has
so many writo out agin' him for debt
that he stays shut up tight in his house
all the week, and only cornea out on
Sundah, when the law protects him."
Dr. Cairns' opinion of the landed gen
try uadcrwpat & chapge, -
men. women anil rhfMr.n iw mahI,. wf
nuns, by missionaries in .the savage wilds
and by manufacturers In the great cities.
uy artists, inventors and other people
who wished to show their affection for
the holy father by giving htm soma re
membrance. He used to receive bushels
of these things at Christmas, on his
birthdays, and on tho
coronation every year.- As he believed
that each represented the thoughts an
the labor of love, he preserved them with
scrupulous care and as there waa no
place for them In the Vatican he sent
mem up to carpineto, where there is
plenty of room for several such muse
ums In the old caatl4. Tf von h.n
known of Jhe assortment of gifts that
are receivea oy popular ministers from
the people in their parishes on Christmas
day. you mav oerhann rnnii n th
accumulation of 25 years of a pastorate
over ou,uuu,uuo people. And you would
laugh to see them. There are stuffed
birds, ostrich eggs, several cases of but
terflie. the horns of Texas and Mexican
steers, a chair made of that material:
a Mexican bull fighter In costume, a
Mexican ranchero upon a horse wearing
a big sombrero, a Mexican saddle and
bridle loaded with silver, a stuffed mon
key, a stuffed leopard and a large aviary
of stuffed cranes, parrots, eagles and
birds", of briiyant plumage from tropical
countries; a collection of effigies repre
senting the costumes of different coun
tries; all kinds of embroideries, pin cush
ions and slippers by the bushel, large
stock of portraits of himself by ama
teurs, which must have tried his pa
tience; painted china, fancy pens and
lead pencils. Chinese and Japanese cu
rios and queer things rom all the ends
of the earth; but -1 cannot enumerate
them. The collection contains everything
you can conceive of.
One of the rooms of what I may be
permitted to call the Leo XIII museum.
Is that in which he was born, and around
the walls have been constructed a series
of wardrobes with glass doors which
contain the robes he wore as priest,
bishop, cardinal and pope, and suits of
his clothing worn while a child. Tho
family must have foreseen that the boy
would be famous, or els they would not
have preserved so many relics of his
childhood. Besides the white enameled,
cane which supported his trembling
frame during hla last days is a big old
fashioned flint lock musket that ho usedl
for sport when a lad. and several other
interesting relics which I wish I had,
more room to describe. - His hats, um
brellas, gloves, slippers, and even thai
silk stockings he wore as pope, similar
to those worn by women, are preserved:
his gold pen, his gold pencil, his watch
and ornaments; the china that he used
upon his table at the Vatican, are all
treasured with affectionate car. A col
lection of the most interesting articles
will be sent to the exposition at St
Louis. . .. v
In other cases In the same-room ar
preserved old-fashioned dresses worn, by
hla ancestors the wedding clothes oie
his grandfather and great-grandfather,
and other members of the family run
ning back for centuries, most of them
of the richest fabrics, for the Peccla
were always wealthy. L The countess ex
plained that she had frequently loane4
these precious garments to be worn at
fancy dress balls at Rome, but had de
elded to do so no longer because sev
eral of them had been soiled and other
wis Injured.
The great library is filled with even
more precious and interesting relics, but
I will have to tell you about them In
future letter,- '
fDO'TOCH FOR -HIM.:
THE TEACHER See here. Th?4
excuse siye you have broken
THu TRUANT Yet-m. I c.iVt