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P A Q E F 0 R T il E H O M E D R E S SM A K E
Hi Materials for Eieiing 6mm Varied an
iMif life Sswi rSC
WHETIIER women would over actually re
turn again to the skirt full around the
hips has been a theme for grave discus
sion among designers for several sea
Ions past.
From Pan's, now and again, came rumors that
the thing would be, but the majority of American
costumers hnrdly seemed inclined to regard these
prophesies in a Berious light.
They argued that should the Parisian fashion
makers, in their efforts after novelty, attempt to
bring about a return to the gathered skirts, the
movement would be given a proiapt quietus by wo
mankind at large.
The remarkable advance made in the costumers'
art of Ialo years, they said, hud educated women up
to an appreciation of the beauty and artistic value
of garments which follow and strictly harmonue
with the lines of the figure. It was inconceivable
that any amount of coaxing on the part of French
designers could lure them back to styles so com
pletely at variance with these accepted canons.
Moreover, there was the fact that gathered
skirts could obviously be becoming to only the few.
Yet now we have the full skirt definitely with
us.
In libcline and the heavyweight materials it
seems still to bear the question mark. Women who
avoid the extreme and sensational in fashions are
chary of it here. Where lighter materials are con
cerned, though, all doubt is at an end. Skirts are
extremely wide.
This is especially true of the gowns for even
ing wear., A model built on the cloBe-fitting lines
'is rarely seen. The trying effect of so much fullness
round the hips, though, is somewhat mitigated by
the character of the fabrics employed. Only the
softest and most feathery of materials are possible
for the winter modes.
Tulle, net, mousseline, chiffon, crepe de chine,
f MlE most recent development of the hand
I kerchief fancy work is an infant's cap
JL made from a single mouchoir.
Any pretty pattern in all white can be
used. Those of . very 6heer linen, having a border of
Val lace or narrow tucks, make the prettiest per
haps. No sewing or cutting is necessary. The cap is
Formed by folding the handkerchief three or four
times. The process, of folding is now being demon
strated in the 6hops. .
A LOVELY new chiffon has a white surface, over
which are scattered feather-shaped figures
carried out in, pale pink chenille.
A new pongee of natural color is decorated in
a design representing large circular wreaths of
gaily colored flowers. The effect is very novel and
pleasing.
NEWEST moleskin coats have the pelts superim
a posed after the fashion of shingles. This does
crepe de Paris and lace are favorites for ball gowns.
The demand for these fabrics hss brought out a
number of lovely novelties in tulle.
For colors the soft paafel shades are popular,
and white will still be greatly worn. Ulack, too, is
good, especially when in a transparent material
built over color.
In the eyes of the. woman who, is her own mo
diste the virtuo of these popular light fabrics lies
in the fact that tho most charming effects may be '
achieved with so little labor. A few rows of shirring,
a bit of laco here and there, and you have a simple
yet stylish and infinitely becoming gown.
Of course, tho evening dress this year may
be of as elaborate a design as tho maker has the
ability and patience to undertake. Most of the im
portant models aro wonderfully trimmed and show
marvelous combinations of materials and tints.
'Hut these, of course, are the creations of artists
trained in their work. Simple fashions are those
most easily handled by the amateur and are those
which chiefly appeal to her.
Shoulder lines are always broad and drooping.
This is a rule which applies to all gowns, blouses
and wraps of the year alike. The high girdle and
closo-fitting front predicted as features for bodices
are seen in many instances, but are not obligatory.
Many of the important gowns still show blouse
fronts, with the narrow folded girdles dipping to
quite a point in front Liberty satin is a favorite
material for the draped high girdle. It is also, by the
way, being largely used for entire evening gowns.
Sleeves are very wide. Usually they reach to the
elbow or a little below. Many novel and graceful
arrangements and draperies are used. As a rule,
the upper part is held to the arm in cap form for a
few inches end the greatest width comes at the
lower end.
Chiffon lends itself so admirably to the present
treatment of evening sleeves that it is often used
for this purpose in gowns of net, lace, crepe de .
chine or other materials.
The fullness of the skirt is usually snugged in
at the waist line with rows of shirring. These are
often extended down to form a yoke effect around
the hips. An extremely pretty style fdr the woman
of slender build is the gown built on princess lines.
Fullness of bodice and skii4 are held in round 'the
waist with tiny rows of shirring, pointed above
and below, in baok and front, to simulate a high
girdle.
Trimmings on evening skirts this year are
noticeably toward the middle of the garment. The
lower edge is often finished with a simple hem a few
inches in width.
Rows of shirring may be the only decoration on "
the skirt or it may be trimmed with bands of lace
or flat flounces of the material itself or of liberty
satin. If either the lace or satin is used it should
be introduced again somewhere in the waist.
( As for trimmings all varieties seem in favor.
Paillettes are very much used and make an effective
decoration for a simple gown of tulle or, net. They
may be applied in the most simple designs along
the edges of ruffles. Flowers, too, are in favor again
and make an effective ornament for a simple even
ing gown. Lace, of course, is everywhere. Pretty
trimmings come also in beads, chenille, chiffon and
embroidery.
Short Notes About Things IVorth Noting
away with the disagreeable checkerboard effect
which was so, noticeable in the early models.
Owing to the very small size of the individual
skin, the only means of avoiding tho patchwork ap
pearance is by this shingling process
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