THE OREGON DAILY JOURNAL' FORI'LAND. SATURDAY EVENING. OCTOBER 3, 1903.'
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A PAG Ei,. r.O-R ME- O ME: a'P RE SiSM AKM
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Military and Ecclesiastic
Effects the Choice for
the Season
IIS THE fall showing of wraps for afternoon
wefl two distinct styles prevail.
First, of coarse, is the "military, with its
erect little, collar, its braids and brass but
tons and its general air of dash.
, Then comes the "ecclesiastic" design, patterned
after the graceful, flowing lines of the surplice and
with Seek and fronts finished in stole effect,
Th's Vl intended flf they are for wear over
ihe full-skirted, full-sleeved gowns of the year, are
themselves very, very full. Many of them fit to the
shoulders, an,d from these faH in wide plaits or
. folds ; to the knee. Other models show the semi
fitted back.
ure safety to the most elaborate ones of lighter
material to be entrusted to their care. . ,
. Soft, smoothfaced fabrics, principally broad
cloths1, are used inlthe development ol garments of
this type, VThUi cream, champagi, peftrlray
and violet are tile predominating coirs. linings
ere of soft, pale silks or satins. V "
-The wrap for afternoonuse is; of f ourse, built
en a-mucn less elaborate patterrf than Ithe one de
lved for evening wear, fitUL ia Auj of the Ikhter
The Two Distinctive Style
in Up-to-date Wraps
; for Afternoon .
shades it is also adapted to use with, the evening
gown.- It will prove, therefore, extremely service
able to the woman whose yearly output for dress is
a restricted one."."
Capes in audita vanetyvjsf forms appear in all
classes 0liis winterlmt they have none of
the rippl55?Tulhess to which past seasons . have
accustomed ua--
The modern affair is uf a quaint, old-timey type,
is' -lie ' quite .flaIijQfk$irajt placed to give a
drooping effect to the f shoulders.
Often when the little military collar is used it,
is encircled by a band of vivid color.. Even costs in
white and the soft tints show this touch. - (
A new conceit seen in the eollarless class of wraps '
is the iaciuob of smhrojukuPB tha, inner, edge of
the lining, so that the ornamentation will show when
the cost is worn open. Oriental colors are used and'
the design is often most elaborate. This bit of -'decoration
gives ah extraordinary effect of richness
to wraps built on the most simple Jines; ?
One beautiful model shown this fll has the lin
ing garnifure formed from the .pattern of a hand
some .India ehawL,cut out and, ftppliflued oa fiatijv
In another wrap displayed no embroidery was!
used, but the edge of the lining was faced with the!
new lona-haired sibeline in white. This was a wpn-J
derf ully pretty touch, giving, as it did, the soft effect!
of f u near the face.
Braid is used a great deal in -the- ornamentation!
of broadcloth coats. Sometimes it is worked into
intricate patterns, sometimes it follows the rigii
military lines. k
Fringes pendants, cords and "tassels-i-all appeaij
here and there in tne decoration 01 tne wraps 01 ina
year. Brass buttons in many sizes figure largeW
omTi tffttnitures.
Vpiv serviceable for morning wear when the cold
blustery days arrive, will be the new tweed storm
coats the stores are showing. Like the af ternooi
and" evening- wrapsrthey reach ,to the knfce 0 jusj
it.. 1 Thtv ara biiilt-h6wever. on much severes
ihan the broadcVrth coats. There is none 0
the amplitude of material seen in the handsome
garments. ' ' '
4 Backs hang straight from the shoulders or havi
tVia fnllnps belted in at the waist. Sleeves are gen
erally of the ."1830" type, with the fullness gathered
The prettiest yodels We a tiny, piping of ted
or green outlining all edges.- , , .r
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