THE OREGON PAIXiY jOUItNAX. rOCTLAXP, TTEDNESDAT' EVENING, SEPTEMBER 0. 1903.
. FASHION SHOW IN NEW YORK WAS A GORGEOUS DISPLAY "
. nox jcavbai .rtxxps.
;0F WHAT A WELL-DRESSED WOMAN WOULD NOT WEAR
torjr Of ths Tsar's Harvesting Types
'-. - of Workers.
Ralph Page, In New Xotk Mall ! and
Tnsf ss is ft Si
.With, the Exception of a Very Few downs f 'Foreign Design the Drese$Jiad a Tendency to Over
brimming, In Ugly Contrast to Former Simple Styles- Military Jdea, from Venice,
to10ffset Lydla Languish "Notion of Paris. ,' :v;v
, RW YOBK.
sraxrjra ootnrs srrw at the taikio ikow,
Beginning on the left-hand side, the, flint Is of gray broadcloth, trimmed In pipings. The long shoulder effect la noticed here. No. 2 la a coat of white
broadcloth perfectly tight fitting, having email sleeves military In style. The. third Is a moleskin coat with applique of lace, and the next la a military
suit of red broadcloth with gold buttons and Oriental braid. The fifth la a coat of white kid.
From a Staff Correspondent
New York, Sept 8. "What not to
.wear, and how not to wear It" would be
a good device for the sadly over-rated
"Fashion Show" at Madison 8quare
Garden. With the exception of six or
seven models all by' foreign designers
there waa not a gown that would be
worn by a woman with the barest
..knowledge of dress. . All were the. plain
est in design and coloring, but they
showed th tendency of overtrlmmlng.
which ran toward .extravagant rloCln
the many disappointing exhibits.
iTho most expressive fact waa that the
road of fashions is leading fast to de
cay. It was, I think, two years ago
this fall that we made the acquaintance
of the Pnquln sleeve, harmless enough
in the infant state, but the first break
iu the artistic and exquisite lines we had
had for a few previous seasons.
What Will American Girl Sot
I nm wondering what the handsome,
" wholesome, broad-shouldered type of
outdoor-loving American girl the type
that Mr. Gibson has made us familiar
with will do? It is a. Japanese puzsle
how she will get her shoulders into the
chopped off short bias lines that even
the. best French designs showed. From
these fell sleeves usually draped with
yards of goods, even when " made of
heavy cloth, defying every line of beauty
and proportion; Thankfully she can
modify the fullness of the skirt often
of brocade velvet, made in ' clumsy
pleats.
Ths tendency Is certainly to over'
trimming, and I. was inclined to wonder
If the present awful elaboration were
not a tradesmen's revolution directed
against the golden age of simplicity of
a few years ago, when a little real lace
and exquisite handwork ware -the cry.
Now fringes, coarse lace, brass "buttons,
small plaltlngs run riot ' over everything.
The most - fearful and wonderful
example of this was an evening wrap
of three-quarter length, made of maise
color satin. Its trimming actually in
eluded ruffles of salmon and yellow
chiffon, coarse cream lace finished with
fringe and relieved by motifs of red em
broidery. Bunches of brown fur talis
were distributed at Intervals over the
whole.
A Tew Charming Exceptions.
While giving vent to Ire that such
ridiculous things should be, we must
not overleok the few charming excep
tions for which their designers deserve
much credit in the present chaos.
The 1830 style was exemplified beau
tifully in a gown of mode broadcloth,
with trimmings of flat little quillings
and buttons covered with the same. The
sleeves and lines were all strongly sug
gestive of this period, but so modified
as to have the crltpness of the present
day. A collar and cuffs of the new mole
skin gave a chic touch.
One of the most artistic things was a
long coat of soft green. Nothing more
beautiful could be imagined than the
long, curved seams edgod with white
kid, which reached from shoulder to
hem. The military Idea, another of the
new features, waa shown In the row of
small sliver buttons. The sleeves were
graceful puffs ending in a white kid cuff
which matched the collar. This white
kid, often with a stamped colored
border, is one of the prettiest new ideas
of the season. In this model especially
we saw how charming the new things
were when adapted by good taste.
Moleskin Is ILatert rnx red.
Another coat was of the latest fur
fad moleskin. It waa a short Jacket,
loose, while in no way baggy. This
had a decoration of rich lace, which
prettily simulated eqaulettes over the
sleeve tops.
One of the good gowns in a soft, red
color was strictly military in its build.
The pretty, little close-fitted monkey
jacket, with Its postillion back, was fas
tened with a row or brass Buttons. The
trimming of this was red velvet
threaded with gold, while ruffles of soft
lace falling from cuffs of the velvet
gave an unexpected daintiness to this
somewhat theatrical development. The
skirt, which had a plaited flare, was one
of the best shown.
A somewhat useless affair, good In its
construction, was an automobile coat of
white kid with big enameled buttons
and a collar and cuffs In the stamped
work, colored to match these.
A black taffeta with little rows of
velvet ribbon and a plaited flare to the
skirt, while not particularly new, was a
very Frenchy gown which a woman
would approve.
Unitary Idea Zs Good.
There was but one evening gown that
I cared for. It was a French affair of
white illusion with little quilling and
big Huffy elbow sleeves, in bell shape,
covered with "blonde" lac.
A pretty conceit was shown In an
other of ths white gowns, where hand
worked spider webs with tiny red Jewel
spiders in the center formed the trim
ming. The military Idea is a good one be
cause it brings a good cut. It is a safe
haven to sail for this season. For its
full detail Its tendency is loud, but it
may be modified and for walking and
cloth costumes is particularly fitting.
It is a style sent to Ms first from
Vlenna"and is in healthy contrast to ths
Lydia Languish notions that the French
designers seem to be trying to foist
upon us. I think these will go the way
of the hoopsklrts that threatened us
not long ago.
We nave learned a thing, too. Let u
have another fashion show by all
means, if only to show what we must
escape. ,
TCansas Is prosperous, Kansas is gener
ous. Kansas is friendly. And ths people
In Kansas who talk about the greatest
country on earth, and invito you to work
In ths harvest field, are somewhat lndtg
nant at the attitude of ths East that
la, they are indignant, when they are
not amused. They are used to hearing
Kansas oouplsd with a laugh and a Jest.
For instance, in ths early days or pro
hibitlon they enjoyed a cartoon that
represented countryman In red shirt
and horse-pistols, planting a two-gallon
Jug on ths drug store counter saying,
"W Her Up, baby's elok.'
But ths Kansas farmer does not Ilk
the misrepresentations that have been
made about him In Eastern newspapers
as an inhospitable man who drives
hard bargain. Ths people are happy
nere ana the stranger is welcome. And
the truth has not been told about this
years memorable harvest Largs head
lines in Eastern Journals have repre
sented brave bellboys and shipping
cierKs who joined the stevedores and
football players from ths college grid
iron on their way to 'the rescue of
Kansas. And the newspaper artists have
drawn pictures of the broken backs of
the new harvesters, of the endless labor
in the hot sun, and the supperless bed
under the rafters. The poor boys, it was
said, reached Kansas penniless to find
no reaping to do, and struggled back
home to tell a tale of hardship against
the wily -farmers who enticed them and
despoiled them.
The plain story of this year's harvest
is not exciting. The wheat la thick and
the straw la heavy on the shoulders of
tne young .men. But usually the school
boys of Topeka and sons of the town
people, Huck Finns from Missouri and
men who drop off the through freltrht
trains during the night ars abls to sup
ply the extra demand. The Kansan
loves the wheat field as the sailor loves
the sea. A prominent editor In Kan
sas City says that his son is now at
it for the fourth year s, boy Just
graduated from the high school. He
does his 12 good hours, eats a huge
supper and goes to bed and comes
home in the fall with a round chest
and a straight back, with his pocket full
or specie.
But this year the call was si-eater.
The demand was sent to the farmer's
friend and agent. State Labor Commis
sioner Gerow. to supply over 29.000
men. And, as usual, low rates were
granted from St. Louis and Chicago to
th place of action. There was no vio
lent call;, the gentlemen of the grain
lands are not likely to fall, with their
$80,000,000 In thd bank. And least of
all were the shopworn and the, epicures
demanded fromthe seaboard: But the
papers published headlines calling des
perately for Kansas. . offering railroad
fare and $S a day, or anything else to
any human being willing to go to the
harvest fields all because Commissioner
Oerow aent to New York asking for
harvesters until July 11.
His request was? "Send onlv able-
bodied men accustomed to hard labor."
And then they began to come-at To
peka on one day two great carloads of
men little men with spectacles and
patent leather, sheas, .hollow-cheated
consumptives coming for their health,
and men on more curious errands than
seems possible. They were of every
class, but they had one trait in com
mon they wr small. And they were
lost a hundred miles from a field of
wheat. But they were gladly welcomed
and sent upon their errand. And then
July 11 Mr. Oerow telegraphed to send
no more.
While your family is away enjoying their vacation,
to have your home wired and equipped' with
ELECTRIC LIGHTS, so at to be prepared for the
long Whiter nights. '
REMEMBER, WE ONLY CHARCK
YOU FOR WHAT YOU . USE
Portland General Electric Co.
SEVENTH AND ALDER STUtXTS
VZW DREAD IH CT7BA.
Tever prevails, Unknown to Science,
Worse Than Yellow Jack.
From ths New York Sun.
Menaced by a terrible plague which
seems uncontrollable, and which has
been hitherto unknown by .the physl
clans of, that country, the people of
Cuba look to the United States for scl
entlflc aid. They have sent to Jefferson
college. In Philadelphia, an appeal to
give battle to the plague, which seems
about to become the Worst that has
ever ravaged the island. Millions of
dollars of American capital are invested
In the island, and should the plague con
tinue, much of this will be Imperiled.
In Daiquiri, province of Santiago,
where the plague- first manifested Itself.
much American money is Invested in
the iron mines of that locality.
The disease first appeared among the
miners -there, and already the lnhabl
tents are becoming panic-stricken. The
Spanish-American Steel Company, which
itis offices in Philadelphia and New
.York, was the first to move In the mat,
, ter. Its cOmpany physicians, unable' to
cope with the situation, sent to the
Philadelphia office for aid. Their plea
was turned over to Hon. E. C. Felton,
president pf the Pennsylvania Steel
. Company, which' also nas Interests In
Daiquiri. A copy of the report on. the
disease was forwarded to the Jefferson
medical college, Philadelphia, and passed
through the hands ot.Dr. Joseph S. Neff,
the medical director. By him It ras re
ferred to Dr. S. Soils Cohen, professor
of medicine and a scientist of note.
The highest exponents . of medical
learning in Cuba have been unable to
discover what the new disease is. First
appearing In Daidulrl, a somewhat iso
lated community, the disease spread to
distant and more densely populated
parts of the Island. In each instance
the history of, the disease has been
traced to Daiquiri. Physicians on thj
scene have confessed themselves non,
plussed, and hence the appeal to the
scientists of this country for aid.
A description of the disease prepared
by Cuban physicians shows the plague
to be one of the most terrible ever
known. It presents the worst symp
toms of yellow fever, black fever and
- spotted fever, and Is even more terrify
ing In Its aspects than tne horrible bu
bonic plague. The victim, after death,
which is almost, certain to occur after a'
. few hours, turns a shade of yellow com
pared to which yellow-fever manifesta
tions are as only a tint , -
But it is lnthe gony of the death
struggle that the horror lies. The re
port shows that the-victim's pulse goes
up to 160. and the respiration reaches
68. These organic disturbances, to
gether with, the temperature of 107. or
108 degrees, keep th victim In a lin
gering agony,- which, strange to say, Is
not cut short by the terriflo heart-beat
Tae patient gasps and pants for breath
until blood gushes from the nostrils and
the terrific fever consumes the tissues
of the body.
The disease is contagious. After
trying many remedies, the local physl
clans have fallen back to the use of qui
nine exclusively and trust to nature to
work the cure. Few recover, and only
those who are treated within a few
hours after the fever is contracted have
any hope of surviving. So lnslalous Is
the growth of the malady that the vie
tltn Is likely to think he Is suffering
from some simple ailment until the
case Is too far advanced for recovery,
In almost every case the victim has
suffered from Intermittent malarial
fever, and an examination of the blood
reveals the presence of micro-organisms
of malaria. From this It was surmised
that malaria invited the disease. Yet
It is proved thatethese micro-organisms
repel It If they be present in sufficient
numbers. Those who are filled with ma
laria microbes are likely to recover,
while those less affected surely die.
At first the disease was treated like
other tropical fevers, but as the cases
became more numerous the symptoms
were more dlosely observed. By this
time the plague had spread until the en
tire island seemed menaced. The Span
lsh-Amerlcan Stel Company, which con
trols large holdings In the infected lo
callty, began the investigations. Its
company surgeon'prepared a descriptive
paper on the new disease, which was
forwarded to the Philadelphia headquar
ters with a plea for assistance. A cor
rect copy. of that report is now made
public for the first time. It is as fol
lows:
'Attacks all persons who have suf
fered from Intermittent malaria fever;
commences wiUt very heavy chills, last'
Ing from IS to 20 minutes. High fever.
107; severe pains in Joints and anxiety
at end of chills or before, patient be
gins, vomiting, which Is almost impos
sible' to control. About 'six hours from
Hers!
Mothers!!
Mothers!!!
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Asf te iied for ever trxTT Y8AXS by im
tlOlTS ef MOTHSftS fcr their CBZUaSM
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tadaak for "Mrs. Wlastow soothing Syrsp,"
MteksaootberkUd. Tweatr4vectaabotati
commencement of attack the patient as
sumes a yellow color, more or less pro
nounced. in proportion to the attack, al
ways, however, being more pronounced
than In yellow fever. The breathing
becomes labored, affecting all the thor
acic and abdominal muscles. Hiccough
is frequent Patients not treated dur
Ing first few hours of attack have not
the slightest hope of recovery, pulse is
160. respiration St to 68. A micro
scopic examination of the blood shows
the micro-organisms of malaria. Treat
ment: Frequent doses of quinine."
A copy of this report was sent to
E. C. Felton, president of the Pennsyl
vania Steel Company, with a request
that he present It to the scientific world
for consideration. One copy was sent
V the Jefferson medical college, Phila
delphia, and another la now said to be
in the possesslonu of the College of
Physicians and Surgeons, Columbia, uni
versity. New York.
Medical Director Joseph 8. Neff of
Jefferson said that Dr. Cohen had not
outlined any' plan of attacking the
plague,
"Judging from the reports suDmit-
ted." he said, "the diseaso Is some pe
culiars feveR. of a particularly malignant
type, and as such is vitally interesting
to medical Investigators. It Is probable
that Dr. Cohen may be able to pursue
his investigations without going to
Cuba. Samples of the blood, sputum
and other specimens, will be forwarded
and the" Investigation conducted from
them If this method falls of satisfac
tory result. It may be that Dr. Cohen
will go to the plague-stricken districts."
Aurora (N. Y.) Advertiser.
Nothing of importance has happened
in town in the past two weeks. So
what Is the use of writing the news If
there isn't any? Dell (Mont.) Leader.
The two-minute trotter has been
long time coming, but he has arrived
at last. Sioux City (la.) Journal.
The genial C. P. Faul was up from
near Clarksdale Monday, and while he
was here further worked his way Into
our hearts by leaving with Us an ele
gant Jar of honey of hiaown raising. If
ha Is anything like the flavor ef the
honey we could recommend hirato the
marriageable young ladles as one of the
sweetest of the eligible In this part of
the country.' Maysvllle (Mo.) Herald.
It Is almost needless to state that
threshing Is the most important thing
at this season, and furthermore, we are
greatly embarrassed for want of news,
that we may make a respectable dis
play of out ability at scribbling for the
Herald about every two weeks; but
despite these facts, we have frequent
ahowers of late, whloh are almost soul
making to the small corn .that It ma
tures at the proper time in time to
escape the withering pinch or Jack
Frost These1 showers are also bene
ficial In starting the fall pastures.
Charlton (la.) Herald.
A MART OF TRADE.
While Dr. Neff would not admit that
the plague was at this early stage a
menace to thlB country and Cuba, his
manner Indicated that he considered the
situation grave.
The United States government has
been fully aware of the dangers of the
plague. The Officials have offered to co
operate with the college having the In
vestigation In charge. The reports re
ceived from the medical institutions will
be forwarded to the government officials
at Washington and Havana.
THEY UL BMBU OT CZ.OVXB.
Please haul us some wood. Harrbds-
burg (Va.) Spirit of the Valley.
Some of our young folks went to
Orkney for their health last Saturday.
They got home that night, about 8undair'
morning. Edtnburg (Va.), Sentinel.
Sam Bullard drank 16 bottles of lemon
extract one day last week. His remains
were interred in the Pleasant Mound
cemetety. Fairfield (III.) Record.
we are glad to see Chria up ana well
gain and calling on his many lady
friends with old-time, regularity. Chris
Is surely a winner with the fair sex.
Keep up the eod work, Chris. Eagle
la proud of you. Eagls (Wis.) Quill.
Miss Martha Onggs of Buffalo -was
In town briefly on Saturday lastEast
UNCLE SILAS Look hare, Msrlsl
This must be th place where them
sooltty people go when they want to
get divorced an' marry somebody else.
. A little )ife may be sacrificed to a
sudden attack of croup If you don't
have Dr. Thomas' Electrio Oil on hand
for the emergency. "
These men came, and Kansas laughed
naturally. Out In the open field, blis
tering and stretching muscles that he
had never used before, a New York
clerk wore a buckskin belt and a dirk
nine Inches long. There turned up in
Ellis county a gang from Albany, armed
to the teeth with revolvers, a terror to
the country. Farmers In North Kansas
are telling the story of brilliant youth
who put on "blled" shirts every eve
ning to flirt with the "gals." When
such misfits as these started East again
they went back, telling picturesque and
colossal yarns, based on their own lack
of stamina, and calculated to reflect dis
credit from themselves upon the farm
ers. They declared that a day's work
under a Kansas farmer would kill an
ox; that the wind blew hurricanes and
the ground heaved and boiled under the
midday sun. One ingenious deserter told
how strong men fainted and the college
athletes gave out ina day.
Now, the fact stands that there have
not been enough men In Kansas to han
die the crop. In some counties the wheat
has gone to waste for lack of harvesters
and only as late as ths last day In
July a call came for 200 men. "Send
more men, writes a farmer; "send
lot more men. Send 100 more men, but
for God's sake don't send any more
spindle legs!"
THE PORTLAND
rosnan, omsoo.
UCBKIOAjg
MADQtrABTm TOM TOTTBXSTS AMD OOWOOMOXAX, flUfBUI
prtoes. A. inflsm
Special rates awde to families aad stag-Is geatl
will be pleased at all times to show rooms and air
Turkish sata esUUlslunet la tte aoteL
x. a sowxms.
The Whirl of
TIME
Makes It imperative for those who
would keep up with the best on the
market In hardware or tools to be oh
the alert and keep up with the whirl
and In the swim, however fast the pace.
Tou will 'always find us the leader In
all that Is best and up-to-date goods,
and In moderate and popular prices. -
AVERY , CO.
02 THIRD ST. - - PORTLAND '
Billiard and Pool Tables
SALOON FIXTURES
BOWLING ALLEYS
W0gto0you bin fit manufactunr'a prlasBMOUGU SAID
The work Is not unusually hard at
all. Any man with a deep chest and
a little "sand" can do what the Kansas
schoolboys do. And, of course, many
succeeded. Pouring in from the East
came thousands eager for the work.
They came pale from too much office
work; pinched from too much study.
They came soft from luxurious living,
or weaK irom dissipation. But, as a
rule, they had strength in their faces.
and have disappeared In the fields.
A typical experience runs thus: At
o'clock they are roused from their
slumber by the kindly old dame who
presides over the house. And, by the
dim light or morning, or of candles.
they share the meal of the other harvest
hands. It is a good meal, and whole
some. The daughter of the house takes
pride, in her chickens and her eggs, and
in the coffee she prepares for breakfast
The air in the morning is cool, and the
sounds of the farmyard are cheerful.
Then all the morning the labor Is hard
reaping- or stacking or binding. And
the sun Is hot But the mind Is free,
and a healthful body is soon trained to
delight In the work. Small arms grow
large, and light skins dark and healthy.
No football man in the world would
recoil from the harvest field. The
swollen hands and the tired backs are
the results of the first day's training.
But, after a week passed in the field
and beside the hearth of a cheerful
family, the hardest time Is over.
Passing through Kansas today a
tranger would he at a loss to distin
guish between the thousands of men
at work which rnro the farmers and
which are the harvest .hands who have
tuck it out. The slmled labor, from
North and West Join hands with the
Kansas farmers every summer the city
boys from along the Missouri river and
the punchers and packers and work
men that come down from Chicago.
And side by side with these, happy and
strong, he would find the men from
the East many of whom have come
before. Every man of ., them Is paid
2.60 per day, or more. Nobody that
knows the broad, open-hearted farmer,
or the greaf demand for good labor can
believe the story of lessened wages or
bad treatment, Every man who works
tx weexs in a harvest Held gets a
wholesome respect for every other man
who does the same thing. " (
I The Brunswick-Balke-Collendcr Co.
49 THIRD STREET, PORTLAND. OR.
YOUR ARCHITECT KNOWS!
THAT
Warm Air Furnaces
Are the highest grade made -the
world's standard. There Is
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W. C. McPherson Company
Salesroom 47 rirst St bet. Mao ana AsS
POSTXAJTSt OB.
Painless Dentistry
It Is possible by our method to ex
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Crown and Bridge Work
DR. W. A. WISE. We guaramee au our wore
WISE BROS., DENTISTS
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DR. T.
The New Grimes Hotel vwar
Free Bus to and From Hotel. Rates Furnished on Application
CLATSOP BBACH
Only hotel overlooking the ocean. View cpiinp ftDPflON
of the sea from nearly every room. aCASIliE, VKEWl'l
S. J. HUBBARD
REAL ESTATE
DEALER
A good cottage to exchange for unimproved
CHICKEN
Cottages for rent and sale,
Inta In suburbs of Portland.
A few rare bargains In ACREAGE. TIMBER LANDS,
RANCHES. CITY PROPERTY AND SUMMER COTTAGES.
. J. xitbsaxs. ixAaxDS, omsftox.
TOTABTES Or TJ
(BUCK CAT.
' (Journal Special Service.)
Buffalo, N. Y., Sept 9 This morning
the ninth day of the Nrth nojf th of
the year found assembledTjr'ttis city
the faithful followers of the great black
cat for the 12th annual concatenation
of the Order of Hoo-Hoo. There were
several hundred delegates present when
W. H. Norris,- of Houston, Tex., grand
snark of the universe, called the meet in
to order St ;09. After brief opening
exercises the convention .met behind
closed doors. The reports showed the
order In excellent financial condition and
an Increase in membership Of more than
1,800 during the -year. The gathering
will be In session several days, and the
visitors, emonHhora are the leading
lumbermen of the entire country, win
be handsomely entertained.
' Preferred sttock Canned woods.
Allen Ijewla' Hft FrnM,
ERU
SA
CURES PILES OR $ 50.00 PA ID
CURES THE WORST CASES WITH ONE BOX
CONTAINS NO MERCURY. NO OPIATES
The Only NohPolsonoua Pile C
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i