4 t THE NEW SUN PLEATED ' ;J l ' f mm j.. '- r - --)-i-rw-iri'n"i-iiiriiiririiii-iai-nn".- ' ' .r r.'.r .i.r - -j-1 q f r ' "' .i.. ...... 4mwxwwwwwwimww n i " MwM'MM'ams'w'tmai0 mM '. , ' ',,'" i J t t. (',., " . . , ' " '-' : J-V...-.C ' 4 . 1 1 ' i ' , ; 1 , , - . . ; ' , : - v . ', ' ...... gTTt. .-' '7'';;f I , - ' ' Suggestion of Rays in Skirts, Materials in Vogue Lend ALMOST every kind of material used this summer is being made up in the new sun pleated effects. The suggestion of rays is brought out both in skirt and blouse, carried over to the sleeves. It is frequently In some' good modes the pleats radiate directly from neck and waist. In others the blouse or skirt has a yoke of some sort, in which they rise. The style is one that requires careful handling and a wise choice of patterns. Like the immortal little girl with a curl, sun pleating is very goed indeed when good. When bad it is rry bad- " Only is . . . ' . . ... an expert could nope to maice a success or tne more difficult cuts. , " . ; ift The simpler patterns, which are -often the pret- tiest, may safely be attempted, even by the girl who makes her own clothes. A handful of these practical suggestions has been . sketched, by the - Buttons ? Here Are Some Brand New Ideas THE ingenuity of 'the button manufacturers has been working pretty busily of late, to judge from the number of novelties - which are appearing in this line. . ' The larger portion of these run as usual to faddish-extremes, but a few of them are altogether dainty and desirable. The vogue' of pearl has resulted in a most attrac tive innovation. This is the shirtwaist or blouse but- ton (in mother of pearl) mounted upon a safety-pin instead of the ordinary shank. Not only does this jermit one. to utiliw a handsome set of buttons for several bfouseaKbut,' whh these pin attachments, they can bi removed when the frock goes to the laundy4 , THE OREGON DAILY Blouses and Sleeves AH Soft Themselvesvto the New Idea artist and embodied in to-day's illustration. A dainty French frock having the sun effect car ried but in blouse, skirt and sleeves .is of white lawn, trimmed with ecru lace. . It is worn over a yellow Blip. The skirt pleats begin at . the waist line. The bodice has "a pointed yoke of the lace continued ove; the shoulders in epaulets, which also taper to a point. The pleats of the blouse, arise in the neck yoke and those of the blouse sleeves in the epaulets. The sleeve has a wide band of the lace inserted sev eral inches below the elbow, and a deep, tight fitting cuff of the same. The blouse also has a deep inserted band of the lace beginning at the side seams and sloping slightly towards the front .- A silk stock of yellow to match the color of the Blip has a deep turnover, collar of the lace. Any woman who has once put highly polished pearl surfaces to the test of the tub will welcome this - means of keeping the new set unscathed. V Extra buttons of smaller size can be had for the sleeves, of the wa'ist, if these are made with open " cdffs, and all sewing-en is dispensed with. V Another new button noted in fashionable shops would be very odd and smart with pne's most un usual gown, although unaui ted for everyday use. w- This is formed of a Brazilian bug of the beee or der, petrified and mounted in a narrow rim of gold. The Insect is in rich torie of green, brown, etc, and suggests the Egyptian scarab in shape. The buttons are small less than aa inch in length; but unuiu&l and rtitytifl - . ' " : x JOURNAL PORTLAND. SATURDAY - EVENING, JULY 4, 1903 ; EFFECTS OF Newest Ideas Found in Shops for Up-to-Date Women T2! mostnQticegble,, tendency in table china is the increasing vogue of border effects. The floral "Spray of patterns, which have been on the wane for some time, are seldom' seen at present Flower designs are popular, but they appear in "conventional" wreaths and other set forms. There is a suggestion of the Dresden 'design in some of the new dinner services, which hints at a re vival of these dainty patterns. , ' More white French china with gold (or gold 'and green) trimming is being sold just now than ever before since its recent revival. It is one of the fashionable choices of the hour. White plates with wide borders of gilt are much sought after, but those having very narrow rims of tho gold are newer and, to the lover of delicate ef fects, more lovely. A pretty fad much followed this season calls for the monogram or crest of the owner in gilt (to match other decoration) upon each white and gilt Elate in the set Occasionally tne insignia occurs i the centre.' A prettier fancy-is to have it in scribed on the rim. rTJtln flat china baskets with, handles of picturesque shape are included in rome of the im- 5orted dinner sets. They are delightful for hold ag olives, salted nuts and other appetizers, and make a pleasing variety upon tne usual jat oisnes. A tcreat deal of attention is being paid of late to the place plate. This is usually one ot tne Handsomest articles of the entire service. A canny regulation, since the cover plate reappears in view each time, that tho course is changed, other dishes of the kind figuring but once. Rome beautiful specimens are seen in dark blue china with borders of bronze, gilt about an inch and a half in width. ? r A hair brush that can be thoroughly cleansed bv boiling is a recent innovation in the field of sanitary toilet articles. " , Both. back and bristles are warranted to be proof Bff&init water or heat . ' v A The brush-can be immersed in pan of boiling liquid and boiled until thoroughly' cleansed without cracking the wood or loosening the brush pari The boiling cleans more satisfactorily than the usual jrasfcbur proccji jritb ammonia or boiu and EIGHT MIDSUMMER STYLES destroys any germs of disease which may be lurking there. . A luxurious article for the toilet after the bath is an extra size powder puff. Some of these puffs assume the proportions of huge sponges. By using one of them the talcum can be much more rapidly applied than with the usual smaller affair. Still another hint from the French watering places In footwear for the beach! This time it takes the shape of beach shoes of Turkish toweling. Tho appearance is somewhat rugged, but suggestive of comfort notwithstanding. A good hint in something cheap and durable for beach exercise and ocean dip. One of the rhost recent ideas of the wideawake jeweler is an odd little watch fob of colored beodj woven in an Indianish design. The finishings are of unglazed leather. Quczal glass, a new variety of tho lovely Favril, is appearing in the shops. Tho woman who is interested in pottery of rich coloring and artistic shape and reasonable price should ask to see Teco ware. v At first glance one says "foreign." But it is home manufacture from Chicago. Quaint little plates with French scenes, French jokelets and French wording, are attracting at tention in this city. They cost only 25 cents apiece. Just tho thing for a novelty luncheon, especially one having a French motif. They can be used for the service or given as favors after the hospitality. A delicious perfume having the flavor of the rose geranium, tho leaves of which our grandmother! used to tuck away in the folds of their linen, U called Egyptian geranium perfume. E ; It comes in odd little Egyptian-looking cases. A pin prick in the lid of the" esse releases a little of the perfume whenever it is desired. w i ' s ' The lover of artistic china and-pottery should know about th neif Auitraliw war which Is fca ginning to make its appearance in the shops. Flower and fruit motifs in pottery designs of un usual coloring are added to odd shapes in the china itself with fascinating results. . ' Some delightful fruit dishes seen in this waif are half vase, half basin in shape. They make bizarre and striking ornaments for tM sideboard and china closet when not in actual use. The ware is very inexpensive considering the ' cent introduction. I The fruit dishes mentioned, by way of example cost but $3 apiece. The newest thing in dress shields is the "shirt waist" style. It differs from the ordinary make l& shape, being more of a crescent, longer and nar rower. Safety pins accompany each pair. Pinned into the dress with these the shields are held in place as if sewed, and are much more readily taken out for washing. The indications for early fall are that castors, reel chamois and violet will be the colors most worn. Our grandmothers treasured any silk stockings fine enough to pass through a wedding ring. Soma of the handiwork of to-day in this particular Una would surprise the dear old ladies. Fine black stock ings that stand the old-time test can be had1 as low as two dollars a pair. Both stockings in-a pair al this price will pass through a ring together. Many women object to a stiff corst for ocean . bathing, and the bust girdle is proving a good sub-, etitute. It gives all necessary rupport. Wood fibre lace is worn not a little this summer ; and promises to be very fashionable in the autumn. Many pretty tints, such as light blue, rose, chamois, etc., are being made in it A smart combination of black and white is much liied just now. , Dainty filet lace xnitt3, such as the ladies of tie olden time wore, are in vogue thia season. They are hand-made by a process which consists of the draw ing together of many silk threads. They come to ni the Maltese bee mitt This is band-made by tis - women on the island of Malta. . ; Tub dresses, of whita or French blue eanv t"' Jrim little morning costumes. The cost iv i . breasted, with large pearl buttons and to 1 1 ; . : is worn with a plain skirt,. ,