The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972, July 04, 1903, Page 25, Image 25

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THE NEW SUN PLEATED
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Suggestion of Rays in Skirts,
Materials in Vogue Lend
ALMOST every kind of material used this
summer is being made up in the new sun
pleated effects.
The suggestion of rays is brought out
both in skirt and blouse,
carried over to the sleeves.
It is frequently
In some' good modes the pleats radiate directly
from neck and waist. In others the blouse or
skirt has a yoke of some sort, in which they rise.
The style is one that requires careful handling
and a wise choice of patterns. Like the immortal
little girl with a curl, sun pleating is very goed
indeed when good. When bad it is rry bad- " Only
is . . . ' . . ...
an expert could nope to maice a success or tne
more difficult cuts. , " . ; ift
The simpler patterns, which are -often the pret-
tiest, may safely be attempted, even by the girl
who makes her own clothes. A handful of these
practical suggestions has been . sketched, by the -
Buttons ? Here Are Some Brand New Ideas
THE ingenuity of 'the button manufacturers
has been working pretty busily of late, to
judge from the number of novelties - which
are appearing in this line. .
' The larger portion of these run as usual to faddish-extremes,
but a few of them are altogether
dainty and desirable.
The vogue' of pearl has resulted in a most attrac
tive innovation. This is the shirtwaist or blouse but-
ton (in mother of pearl) mounted upon a safety-pin
instead of the ordinary shank. Not only does this
jermit one. to utiliw a handsome set of buttons for
several bfouseaKbut,' whh these pin attachments, they
can bi removed when the frock goes to the laundy4 ,
THE OREGON DAILY
Blouses and Sleeves AH Soft
Themselvesvto the New Idea
artist and embodied in to-day's illustration.
A dainty French frock having the sun effect car
ried but in blouse, skirt and sleeves .is of white
lawn, trimmed with ecru lace.
. It is worn over a yellow Blip. The skirt pleats
begin at . the waist line. The bodice has "a pointed
yoke of the lace continued ove; the shoulders in
epaulets, which also taper to a point.
The pleats of the blouse, arise in the neck yoke
and those of the blouse sleeves in the epaulets. The
sleeve has a wide band of the lace inserted sev
eral inches below the elbow, and a deep, tight
fitting cuff of the same.
The blouse also has a deep inserted band of the
lace beginning at the side seams and sloping slightly
towards the front .-
A silk stock of yellow to match the color of the
Blip has a deep turnover, collar of the lace.
Any woman who has once put highly polished
pearl surfaces to the test of the tub will welcome this
- means of keeping the new set unscathed.
V Extra buttons of smaller size can be had for the
sleeves, of the wa'ist, if these are made with open
" cdffs, and all sewing-en is dispensed with.
V Another new button noted in fashionable shops
would be very odd and smart with pne's most un
usual gown, although unaui ted for everyday use.
w- This is formed of a Brazilian bug of the beee or
der, petrified and mounted in a narrow rim of gold.
The Insect is in rich torie of green, brown, etc,
and suggests the Egyptian scarab in shape.
The buttons are small less than aa inch in
length; but unuiu&l and rtitytifl - . ' " : x
JOURNAL PORTLAND. SATURDAY - EVENING, JULY 4, 1903 ;
EFFECTS OF
Newest Ideas Found in Shops for Up-to-Date Women
T2! mostnQticegble,, tendency in table china
is the increasing vogue of border effects.
The floral "Spray of patterns, which have
been on the wane for some time, are seldom' seen
at present
Flower designs are popular, but they appear in
"conventional" wreaths and other set forms.
There is a suggestion of the Dresden 'design in
some of the new dinner services, which hints at a re
vival of these dainty patterns. , '
More white French china with gold (or gold 'and
green) trimming is being sold just now than ever
before since its recent revival.
It is one of the fashionable choices of the hour.
White plates with wide borders of gilt are much
sought after, but those having very narrow rims of
tho gold are newer and, to the lover of delicate ef
fects, more lovely.
A pretty fad much followed this season calls for
the monogram or crest of the owner in gilt (to
match other decoration) upon each white and gilt
Elate in the set Occasionally tne insignia occurs
i the centre.' A prettier fancy-is to have it in
scribed on the rim.
rTJtln flat china baskets with, handles of
picturesque shape are included in rome of the im-
5orted dinner sets. They are delightful for hold
ag olives, salted nuts and other appetizers, and
make a pleasing variety upon tne usual jat oisnes.
A tcreat deal of attention is being paid of late to
the place plate.
This is usually one ot tne Handsomest articles of
the entire service. A canny regulation, since the
cover plate reappears in view each time, that tho
course is changed, other dishes of the kind figuring
but once.
Rome beautiful specimens are seen in dark blue
china with borders of bronze, gilt about an inch and
a half in width. ? r
A hair brush that can be thoroughly cleansed bv
boiling is a recent innovation in the field of sanitary
toilet articles. " ,
Both. back and bristles are warranted to be proof
Bff&init water or heat . ' v
A The brush-can be immersed in pan of boiling
liquid and boiled until thoroughly' cleansed without
cracking the wood or loosening the brush pari
The boiling cleans more satisfactorily than the
usual jrasfcbur proccji jritb ammonia or boiu and
EIGHT MIDSUMMER STYLES
destroys any germs of disease which may be lurking
there. .
A luxurious article for the toilet after the bath
is an extra size powder puff.
Some of these puffs assume the proportions of
huge sponges.
By using one of them the talcum can be much
more rapidly applied than with the usual smaller
affair.
Still another hint from the French watering
places In footwear for the beach!
This time it takes the shape of beach shoes of
Turkish toweling. Tho appearance is somewhat
rugged, but suggestive of comfort notwithstanding.
A good hint in something cheap and durable for
beach exercise and ocean dip.
One of the rhost recent ideas of the wideawake
jeweler is an odd little watch fob of colored beodj
woven in an Indianish design. The finishings are of
unglazed leather.
Quczal glass, a new variety of tho lovely Favril, is
appearing in the shops.
Tho woman who is interested in pottery of rich
coloring and artistic shape and reasonable price
should ask to see Teco ware. v
At first glance one says "foreign." But it is home
manufacture from Chicago.
Quaint little plates with French scenes, French
jokelets and French wording, are attracting at
tention in this city.
They cost only 25 cents apiece.
Just tho thing for a novelty luncheon, especially
one having a French motif.
They can be used for the service or given as favors
after the hospitality.
A delicious perfume having the flavor of the rose
geranium, tho leaves of which our grandmother!
used to tuck away in the folds of their linen, U
called Egyptian geranium perfume. E ;
It comes in odd little Egyptian-looking cases.
A pin prick in the lid of the" esse releases a little
of the perfume whenever it is desired.
w i ' s '
The lover of artistic china and-pottery should
know about th neif Auitraliw war which Is fca
ginning to make its appearance in the shops.
Flower and fruit motifs in pottery designs of un
usual coloring are added to odd shapes in the china
itself with fascinating results. . '
Some delightful fruit dishes seen in this waif
are half vase, half basin in shape.
They make bizarre and striking ornaments for tM
sideboard and china closet when not in actual use.
The ware is very inexpensive considering the '
cent introduction. I
The fruit dishes mentioned, by way of example
cost but $3 apiece.
The newest thing in dress shields is the "shirt
waist" style. It differs from the ordinary make l&
shape, being more of a crescent, longer and nar
rower. Safety pins accompany each pair. Pinned
into the dress with these the shields are held in
place as if sewed, and are much more readily taken
out for washing.
The indications for early fall are that castors, reel
chamois and violet will be the colors most worn.
Our grandmothers treasured any silk stockings
fine enough to pass through a wedding ring. Soma
of the handiwork of to-day in this particular Una
would surprise the dear old ladies. Fine black stock
ings that stand the old-time test can be had1 as low
as two dollars a pair. Both stockings in-a pair al
this price will pass through a ring together.
Many women object to a stiff corst for ocean .
bathing, and the bust girdle is proving a good sub-,
etitute. It gives all necessary rupport.
Wood fibre lace is worn not a little this summer ;
and promises to be very fashionable in the autumn.
Many pretty tints, such as light blue, rose, chamois,
etc., are being made in it A smart combination of
black and white is much liied just now. ,
Dainty filet lace xnitt3, such as the ladies of tie
olden time wore, are in vogue thia season. They are
hand-made by a process which consists of the draw
ing together of many silk threads. They come to ni
the Maltese bee mitt This is band-made by tis
- women on the island of Malta. . ;
Tub dresses, of whita or French blue eanv t"'
Jrim little morning costumes. The cost iv i
. breasted, with large pearl buttons and to 1 1 ; . :
is worn with a plain skirt,. ,